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guide from
seeds to harvest
Gardening
Basics
By Emily Peery
My goal in writing Gardening Basics is to help new gardeners have success with in their vegetable
gardens. I have created a step by step guide to walk you through the basics.
I have found that square foot gardening—using raised beds and a soil mix—makes gardening
easy! However, you can apply all of the information in this e-book to other methods as well.
The first section teaches you how to design, plan, build, and plant your garden. It includes step by
step instructions and checklists to make it easy.
In the appendix you will find a Plant Spacing chart, a Companion Planting chart, details about
watering methods, and a section with recipes.
This e-book is intended to be used along with my other e-books: Planting by Color and Vegetable
Reference Guide. Planting by Color gives you a week by week schedule of when to start seeds,
transplant, and plant seeds directly in the garden. The Vegetable Reference Guide provides details
about each vegetable, including when to plant, fertilize, and harvest.
All of this information is available on my website for free. Please respect my hard work by limiting
use of this e-book to one person. I’d ask that you refrain for copying, emailing, or distributing this
information without written consent.
Happy gardening!
I use a modified version of the Square Foot Gardening method as developed by Mel Bartholemew
(All New Square Foot Gardening, first revised edition, (Franklin: Cool Springs Press, 2006)).
My strategy includes:
Raised garden beds
o no wider than 2 feet from each edge or aisle, maximum 4’ wide
o at least 10-12” high
Soil mix—a combination of peat moss, vermiculite, and compost
Garden beds divided into 1 foot sections, planting one type of vegetable per square
Why not just garden in a patch of dirt in your yard? Of course you can, but here are the advantages
of using my method over traditional gardening:
Soil—your success is hugely dependent on good soil. Depending on your location, it might
be rocky, sandy or clay and the pH might be wrong. By creating your own soil you avoid
having to test, amend, and adjust your soil.
Labor—traditional gardening requires so much physical labor. This method avoids all
hoeing, trenching, hilling, and tilling.
Weeds—let’s face it, the thing we all hate about gardening is weeds, and with traditional
gardening there’s no avoiding them. I can honestly say that I spend less than 1% of my time
in the garden weeding.
Space—look at a traditional garden bed and notice how much space is taken up by rows.
Rows are necessary—you have to have a way to walk around and access your plants. Not
so with this method! By limiting the width of our garden beds, every plant is within an arm’s
reach. Eliminating the rows allows us to plant more vegetables in less space.
Brought to you by http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net Please do not photocopy or redistribute.
Gardening Basics, second edition © Emily Peery 2013 page 2
Design Your Garden Bed
Location
Walk around your house and look for places you might put your garden. Consider the following:
Sunlight—most plants need 8-12 hours of direct sunlight every day.
Water—plants need water, and you don’t want to cart it around your yard. Be sure your
garden will be reachable by hose, or near existing irrigation.
Space—the garden will be no more than 4 feet deep, but can be as long as you choose.
Proximity—put your garden beds somewhere you will walk by and see often.
Size
Bigger is not always better.
For the first year I suggest you build and plant no more than 32 to 48 square feet.
Shape
The ideal is a long rectangle with three available sides.
4x8 or 4x12 with only one short side against a fence.
If you have to build along a fence, choose one of these two
options:
2x16 with one long side against the fence
several 4x4 boxes along the fence with at least 3 feet between each box)
Refer to the Plant Spacing chart (appendix A) to see how many plants will fit in each square.
Most vegetables will fit one or more per square. A few vegetables, like tomatoes and zucchini,
take several squares.
Refer to the Companion Planting chart (Appendix B). Some plants grow better next to others.
Look up your vegetable and make sure it’s “neighbors” are not listed in red in the column
beneath, which means it’s not a good companion.
Provide support: Some plants like peas, cucumbers, and vine tomatoes will need a trellis. It’s
best to put your trellis in a place where you can get to both sides of it, and where it won’t block
your access to other plants.
Consider size, sunlight, and accessibility. Plant taller vegetables to the North so they do not
shade the shorter plants. Plant vegetables that harvest only at the end of the season (like
onions) toward the back, and others that harvest all summer in front (ie: herbs, beans, lettuce).
WHAT TO DO
Prepare the site
o Remove any grass, shrubs, flowers, etc.
o Level the ground. It’s okay if the box slants downhill—just make sure there are no
bumps or rocks sticking up that will prevent it from lying flat.
Build the box.
Brought to you by http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net Please do not photocopy or redistribute.
Gardening Basics, second edition © Emily Peery 2013 page 8
o Work on a flat, hard surface like a patio or driveway.
o Lay out your boards in the shape of your garden bed.
o Overlap the edges so that no board is on the outside on both ends.
o Drill 3 pilot holes in each board.
o Attach the boards together with screws.
Put the box in place
o Lay down the box
o Put weed mat in the bottom—I like to use a little extra so it comes up the insides of
the box. It keeps the soil from spilling out of the bottom.
o Divide the box into square feet and screw the short decking screws in, leaving the
head 1/8” above the box (you will use this to tie string to).
o Start at one end, tie the nylon string to a screw, and weave it around the box until
the box is divided into 1 foot squares (see picture below).
The Ingredients
PEAT MOSS
Peat moss typically comes in large bales that are just shy of 4 cubic feet, but that will expand to at
least 6 cubic feet once opened. This can be purchased at most home and garden stores, nurseries,
or even the gardening section of the grocery store. You can also substitute coconut coir.
VERMICULITE
Vermiculite is made of rock, but it’s light and fluffy like popcorn. It’s “cousin” perlite is found in
potting soils (the white stuff). Vermiculite keeps your soil from getting bogged down, but unlike
perlite, vermiculite retains moisture. It can be difficult to find, but it’s great if you can hunt it down.
Call around to find out who carries it. I have found it at the local farming co-op store.
Don’t bother with small bags of vermiculite—you need 4 cubic foot bags only. If you can’t find it,
substitute with perlite or skip it altogether!
COMPOST
It’s important to purchase as many types of compost as you can. Avoid steer compost, since the
cattle are fed a lot of salt, and this is not good for your garden. These usually come in 1 cubic foot
bags.
_______ length X _______ width X _______ depth = _______ 4 = ______ cubic feet
Example: 8’ length x 4’ width x 1’ depth = 32 cubic feet 4 = 8 cubic feet
______ Peat moss 8 cu ft Peat moss
______ Vermiculite 8 cu ft Vermiculite
______ x 2 = _____ Compost 16 cu ft Compost
Keep adding and mixing until you’ve used all your ingredients. If you have some extra, use your
hose to mist down the soil, let it settle a little, and then add the rest.
Other options
I’ve talked to several people who garden in pure compost, and report great success. The peat
moss and vermiculite are going to help retain water and provide good drainage. If you garden in
100% compost, be careful not to over-water.
You can purchase garden box grow mixes in my area—check your local nurseries.
Bucket Method
The most basic way to water your garden is with a 5 gallon bucket and a large plastic cup of water.
Put your bucket near the garden, fill it with a hose, and then pour a cup of water on each plant or
square. If the plant starts wilting, give it more water.
Hose Method
Another option is to water your garden with a hose.
Soaker Hose
You can purchase a soaker hose, which just oozes out water slowly, and wind it around your
garden. You have to turn it off and on every day.
It is possible to add a timer to your soaker hose, and then make it automatic.
When to Plant
Now you can go buy seeds and plants, and put it all in, right? Unfortunately, it’s not that simple.
Plants can be divided into several categories based on light requirements, sensitivity to frost, and
ideal temperature for growing. These factors determine the best time to plant.
HARDY
Hardy plants require less light (3-6 hours of direct sun), can tolerate hard frost, and grow best in
cool weather. Many will die, bolt, or go to seed when temperatures rise. These should be planted
early in the spring, as soon as the soil can be worked, or late in the summer to be harvested in the
fall. In areas with short periods of frost, hardy vegetables can be grown all winter.
SEMI-HARDY
Semi-hardy plants require more sun (6 hours), tolerate light frost, and grow best in cool weather.
These should be planted in the spring, about 3-5 weeks before the frost date. They can also be
planted late in the summer for a fall harvest, or during the winter in temperate regions without any
frost.
TENDER
Tender plants need more sun (8 hours), do not tolerate frost, and grow best in warm (not hot)
weather. Any frost will kill them, so they should be planted on or after the frost date.
These vegetables have long growing seasons (they take a long time to go from seed to harvest), so
you want to wait until the weather is warm enough for them, but you can’t wait too long or you will
not have a chance to harvest before hot or cold temperatures set in. For this reason you should use
transplants, not seeds.
Other plants, like tomatoes and peppers, have to be purchased as plants because the growing
season is too short to start them as seeds. More advanced gardeners can start their own seeds
indoors, but I don’t recommend it for beginners.
Finally, there are vegetables that can be grown from either plants or seeds. In this case, let your
budget decide! Seeds are usually cheaper, but plants may produce a harvest a little sooner.
You can find recommendations for each vegetable in the Vegetable Gardening Guide e-book or on
my website http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/vegetables.
Review your garden plan and locate the square that you will plant in. Look on the vegetable chart to
see how many plants fit in each square. If you are growing something not listed, follow these
guidelines for plant spacing found on the seed packet:
12” apart—1 per square
6” apart—4 per square
4” apart—9 per square
3” apart (or less)—16 per square
Poke holes about 1” deep with your pencil. Drop 2 or 3 seeds into each hole then smooth the soil
over. Gently water each square you just planted (be careful not to wash away the seeds!). Put the
rest of your seed packet into a small Ziploc bag and store in a cool, dry place. You may want to
make a note on your garden plan of the date you planted the seeds. If they have not germinated in
one to two weeks (check the back of the seed packet), replant that spot.
BUYING PLANTS
You can purchase plants at many home and garden stores, a nursery, or even the garden section
of the grocery store. When buying plants look for short, stocky stems, no fruit or flowers, and healthy
looking leaves (no brown spots or wilting). If you can, buy plants that are disease resistant.
Read the labels to choose between varieties. Whatever you do, don’t forget to write down what you
planted. There’s nothing worse than having great success without any idea of how to repeat it next
year!
HARDENING OFF
Don’t just take your new little plants home and plop them in the garden. Most likely they’ve been
growing in a greenhouse or some other protected place. It’s important to get them used to the sun
and wind before leaving them outside day and night.
Start off by taking the plants outside and putting them in the shade for an hour or two. Each day for
about a week, increase the time, and the amount of direct sunlight. Now you’re ready to plant!
TRANSPLANTING
You will need the following:
Garden plan
Plants
Trowel
Scissors
Carefully remove the pot from the plant and examine the roots. If they are going around in circles or
you see a mass of white roots in the shape of the pot, they are “root bound” and need to be
trimmed. Take your scissors and cut off the bottom roots. This will actually improve the growth of the
plant.
Place the plant in the hole and fill any space with soil, and gently pat it down. Now water the plant
with one or two cups of water—this removes the air trapped in the soil which will kill the plant.
This method of gardening is virtually weed-free, so you can spend your time admiring, harvesting,
and eating the fruits of your labors.
For intermediate and advanced gardening topics, like fertilizing, starting seeds indoors, building
irrigation, and more visit my website at http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net.
Happy gardening!
Bucket Method
The most basic way to water your garden is with a 5 gallon bucket and a large plastic cup of water.
Put your bucket near the garden, fill it with a hose, and then pour a cup of water on each plant or
square. If the plant starts wilting, give it more water.
Pros Cons
Minimal equipment needed May have to water twice a day when it’s
Anyone can do it really hot
Have to have someone tend your garden
if you go on vacation
Labor intensive
Hose Method
Another option is to water your garden with a hose.
Pros Cons
Minimal equipment needed Soil is so loose, the water tends to wash
Anyone can do it it away or leave big pits
Have to have someone tend your garden
if you go on vacation
Watering the leaves can promote
disease
Pros Cons
No extra equipment needed May not give plants the right amount of
Automated—no worries if you go on water
vacation Watering the leaves can promote
disease
Soaker Hose
You can purchase a soaker hose, which just oozes out water slowly, and wind it around your
garden. You have to turn it off and on every day.
Pros Cons
Minimal equipment needed You have to remember to turn it on and
Anyone can do it OFF!
Have to have someone tend your garden
if you go on vacation
Soaker hoses don’t seem to water the
garden very evenly
Not automated
It is possible to add a timer to your soaker hose, and then make it automatic.
Pros Cons
Automatic—no worries if you go on Need supplies and know-how to build
vacation Watering the leaves can promote
disease
Sun and wind will wear down PVC and
timer; may need to replace parts
Pros Cons
Automatic—no worries if you go on Need supplies and know-how to build
vacation Watering the leaves can promote
disease
May not give plants the right amount of
water
Pros Cons
Automatic—no worries if you go on Need supplies and know-how to build
vacation Expensive to hire someone to build
Uses less water
Puts water at the roots
Flexible—can give different “zones”
more or less water
Guacamole
Ingredients Instructions
3-4 ripe avocados Cut the avocados in half, remove the pit and scoop
¼ to ½ an onion, finely chopped out the flesh, mash it with a fork or potato ricer
1-2 cloves garlic, minced Add onions and garlic—more for more “bite”
Juice of ½ lemon Add lemon juice
Sour cream Add sour cream—I add equal to avocado mix
Salt to taste Salt to taste
Eat with tortilla chips and fresh salsa!!!
Zucchini Noodles
Ingredients Instructions
1 zucchini Wash the zucchini, cut off the stem and the bottom
1 Julienne peeler Put the zucchini on a cutting board and “peel” it with
1 TBS olive oil the Julienne peeler.
Ideally, put in Tupperware in fridge for 1-2 days to
allow it to dry out a little.
Sauté in olive oil for 5 minutes.
Cabbage Noodles
Ingredients Instructions
2-3 TBS oil or butter Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. Add onion and
1 onion, halved and sliced cook until it starts to brown.
1 small head cabbage Cut cabbage into wedges and process in food
Kosher salt (to taste) processor with slicing blade.
Add cabbage to the skillet, sprinkle with salt, and
cook until slightly browned.
Second Planting
The tomatoes will need support. The best is
a 5’ tomato cage.
Roma Tomato Better Boy Tomato
(1 plant) (1 plant) If the peppers are ready for harvest before
the tomatoes, wash, core, and freeze
them whole. The texture will be fine for
cooked salsa.