40 Mumbai foods we can’t live without

Asia Pacific | India | Mumbai

40 Mumbai foods we can’t live without

From street food spice bombs to favorite fasting foods and meat dishes fit for a Mughal invader, here are a selection
of foods that any true Mumbaiker revels in
By Sanjiv Khamgaonkar 1 July, 2010

The history of food in Mumbai is closely linked to the growth of this city from fishing village to megapolis. As wave
after wave of immigrants from all over the country came with dreams of gold in their eyes, they brought their culinary
treasures with them. The result? A smorgasbord of cooking styles and street food that reflects our cosmopolitanism
as much as our carbohydrate-fueled work ethic.

Here's a sampling of 40 must-try foods that define Mumbai's food culture, with Muslim, Gujarati, Goan, Coastal,
South Indian, Parsi and of course local Maharashtran influences.

Parsi akuri, Mumbai's scrambled eggs. 1.

Akuri on toast

Move over scrambled eggs, the Parsi Akuri cometh. Rated as one of the great Parsi dishes, every family has its own
special way of making this breakfast meal. Though variations of the ingredients are vociferously debated, Akuri is
usually made by scrambling eggs with onions, tomatoes (or even raw mangoes when in season), red chilli powder,
green chillies and topped with fresh coriander. Others add milk, jeera (cumin) powder, curry leaves and even ginger
and garlic paste.
Try the Akuri on Toast at Jimmy Boy, 11 Bank Street, Vikas Building, Off Horniman Circle, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2266
2503

2. Baida roti

This one is an interesting envelope. Spiced meat -- chicken or minced mutton, even bheja (brain) -- and whipped
eggs with masala-fied fried onions enveloped in a square shaped dough and pan fried. Though served with sliced
onion rings and green chutney, they're delicious even without accompaniment.

A lot of people swear by the Baida Roti at Bade Mian, Tullock Road, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder,
evenings only. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2284 8038

Batata vada, a Mumbai icon.3. Batata vada

Whether it's for breakfast, teatime, or anytime, one thing is for sure, Mumbaikars can’t live without the Batata Vada
bite. This well-liked fast food dumpling is made by mashing boiled potatoes with green chilies, ginger, garlic, lime
juice, turmeric, and fresh coriander, then dipped in a besan (gram flour) batter and deep fried. It's served either with a
green chutney or fried green chillies.

Virtually every street corner will have an outstanding Batata Vada seller but it’s hard to beat the ones made at
Shrikrishna, near Chabildas High School, Dadar Market.
4. Butter chicken

This ubiquitous dish traces its roots to the days of the Mughals when calorie counting was a thing of the future. This
must-order dish when Indian families go out for dinner is made from chunks of chicken, marinated overnight in
a yogurt and spice mix that includes ginger garlic paste and lime juice. It is then grilled or pan-fried. An ultra rich
sauce made with butter, tomato puree, cumin, garam masalas and fresh cream is then poured over it. Best had with
Indian breads like rotis, naan or parathas. Don't confuse it with chicken tikka masala, which is a story for another day.

While available at every kind of eatery, the butter chicken at Punjab Grill is worth dying for. Level 3, Palladium Mall,
Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel. Tel: +91 (0) 22 4347 3980

The classic Bombay Sandwich.5. The

Bombay sandwich

This street side invention is a combination of the most unlikely ingredients. Lavishly buttered white bread and
sandwiched between them thin slices of beetroot, boiled potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, onion rings, and mint
chutney. Cut into four triangles so that you can handle all the layers without spilling them, you get the most refreshing
tangy taste, after each bite. A toasted version steams up the vegetables inside and adds another dimension. Truly,
there is no other sandwich quite like it in the world.

Though widely available through out the city, try it at Amar Juice Centre, near Cooper Hospital, opp. Juhu Galli. Or
the Mafco Stall outside Worli Dairy on Worli Sea Face.
 Bheja fry, fried brain, not for the weak
hearted. 6. Bheja fry

Bheja, or goat brain, sautéed with tomatoes, onions, turmeric, green chillies, spices and garnished with fresh
coriander, is a staple of all those with hardcore carnivorous leanings in the city. Eaten with a roti (Indian bread) or
pao, this melt in the mouth dish has a rich Muslim heritage behind it and you often find that one plate is not enough.

Radio Restaurant, 10, Musafir Khana, Palton Road, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2261 7171, serves up a really good Bheja Fry.
 Fried Bombil aka Bombay Duck.7. Bombil
fry

Bombil, or Bombay Duck, is a fish (and not a duck) found in plenty in the waters around Mumbai. A fisher folk
favourite, Bombils are flattened, then dipped in a spice-filled besan (gram flour) batter and fried. This crunchy-on-the-
outside and mushy-soft-on-the-inside fish dish can be eaten on its own as a starter, or as a main course with
chapattis.

Gajalee restaurant does a mean Bombil Fry. They have branches at Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (E), Tel: +91 22
26114093. And at Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Tel: +91 22 2495 0667

8. Brun maska

You may wonder how bread and butter can become such an iconic union. But it's not merely bread and this is not
merely butter. It's brun or gutli pao -- a local bread that is unique to Mumbai -- and it's crisp and hard and crumbly on
the outside and soft inside. The Brun is then sliced and lashings of butter are applied lavishly. Some even sprinkle
quite a bit of sugar. It is usually accompanied by the sweet Irani chai. Dipping the brun maska in the chai is the only
way to eat it.

Available at most Irani restaurants, the Brun Maska at Kyani & Co is historic. 657 Jer Mahal Estate, Opp. Metro
Cinema, Dhobi Talao, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2201 1492. Also try it at B Merwan, Opp. Grant Road Station (E), Tel: +91 (0)
22 2309 3321
 Bhel puri at the Taj Hotel.9. Bhel puri

The most commonly sold chaat on the streets of Mumbai, every bhel walla will have his own matchless blend and a
considerable 7pm fan following. While the ingredients -- puffed rice, papadi (small crisp deep fried flour puris), sev,
onions, potatoes, raw mango and sweet and sour chutney -- remain the same, it is the proportions in which they are
thrown together on the street side that makes the difference.

Bhel puri is available everywhere. The stalls at Chowpatty and Juhu beaches draw throngs of die-hard fans. But if
you want a bhel puri with ambience, try it at Sea Lounge, Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder. Tel: +91 (0) 22 6665 3366

10. Chicken mayo roll

Almost every school or college canteen serves it. Most single screen cinema houses showing English movies display
it during the interval. Most bakeries will have their version, neatly wrapped in cellophane, at the counter. Some
grocery stores in up market areas stock it along with grain and rice. It's hard to believe that plain boiled chicken
doused in sweet-ish mayonnaise with a celery leaf for dressing, all wrapped up in a bread roll can be so popular in a
spice loving city. But it is.

One of the creamiest chicken mayo rolls can be had at Paradise, Sindh Chambers, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road,
Colaba, Tel: +91 22 22832874. Or try it at Candies, Mac Ronells, 5A Pali Hill, St. Andrews Road, Bandra (W). Tel:
+91 22 26424125

11. Chicken manchurian

Here's a dish that even the Chinese over on the mainland haven't heard about. Snigger, snigger. Yet it's on the menu
of the roadside handcart Chinese food hawker and the Chinese restaurant in the fancy five-star hotel. Chicken
manchurian, a phrase that has come to be the face of Chinese food in India, is nothing but deep-fried batter-coated
chicken cubes in an onion, green chillies, garlic, vinegar and soy sauce gravy. Eaten with rice, it never fails to get a
sigh of contentment from those partaking of this gastronomic oddity.

If you want to taste the real thing, try it where it was created, China Garden, Om Chambers, Kemps Corner. Tel: +91
(0) 22 2363 0841

Trishna's butter pepper garlic crab.12.

Butter garlic crab

It doesn't trace its roots to Chinese, Continental or Indian cuisines. It comes from Butter Land, an imagined place that
thrives on the premise that anything tastes great with melted butter. A delicious, simple dish, a big crab is drowned in
tons of butter garlic sauce that seeps into every nook and cranny and coats every morsel of the flesh. Crack open the
crab and take a bite. You’ll know immediately that sweet crabmeat and butter with a twist of garlic is a combination
made by gods.

The best butter garlic crab can be found at Mumbai's most famous seafood restaurant. Trishna, Sai Baba Marg, Near
Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort. Tel: +91 22 22703213

13. Dhoklas and farsaan

These popular snacks are so integral to food loving Gujaratis that no meal is complete without them. And when
traveling abroad, they don’t leave home without a little parcel tucked away in their luggage. Dhoklas or 'khummun' are
made from the fermented batter of chickpeas, steamed and then spiced with chillies and ginger and tempered with
mustard seed. Farsan, a broad term for savories encompassing sev and gathiya are crisp deep-fried spiced gram
flour creations in pasta like shapes.

Several stores stock these popular snacks. But try them here: Chedda Dry Fruits & Snacks, 41 Ridge Road,
Walkeshwar. Tel: +91 22 (0) 2369 9442. Dave Farsan Mart, 10 Babulnath Road, near Chowpatty. Tel: +91 (0) 22
6657 8311. Go-Go Snacks, Bhavan’s College Lane, Chowpatty. Tel: +91 22 (0) 2361 9968.

Falooda, a desi dessert.14. Falooda

This adaptation of a Persian dessert was brought to India by the Mughals. A rich drink, Falooda is vermicelli mixed
with milk, almonds, pistachios, a bit of rose syrup and the key ingredient -- sabza or basil seeds -- topped up with two
scoops of ice cream. Refreshing, rosy, energizing, it's a great pick-me-up on a hot day.

Badshah, at 152/156 LT Marg, Opp. Crawford Market. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2342 1943, has a reputation for their falooda.

15. Fish and prawn curry

These two dishes are as old as Mumbai herself (remember, this city started off as a fishing village under various
kings and sultanates until the Portuguese and English discovered it in 1534). This coconut-based light curry can be
prepared using a variety of fish or prawn. But the most popular curries use surmai (kingfish), pomfret (butter fish),
bangda (mackerel) or bombil (Bombay duck). And the only way to truly enjoy it is with par boiled country rice.

For Konkani and Malvani style fish curry go to Sadichha, B-5 Gandhi Nagar, Opp. MIG Club, Bandra (E), Tel: +91 (0)
22 2651 0175. For Karwar style fish curry there's Fresh Catch, Lt. Kotnis Marg, Near Fire Brigade, Off L J Road,
Mahim (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2444 8942

16. Frankie

Inspired by the Lebanese pita bread wrap and suitably Indianized, the Frankie, or should I say the Tibbs Frankie, has
satiated hordes of the hungry in search of a quick lip-smacking snack. Basically, it's a juicy naan bread with an egg
coating and stuffed with mutton or chicken, rolled up and sprinkled with a unique masala that gives it its special flavor.
The vegetarian option does not use eggs and the stuffings include paneer or potatoes.

Available all over the city. For a Tibbs Frankie closest to you, call +91 (0) 22 2821 4698

Locals call it the gujju thaali.17. Gujarati

thaalis

In fast food terms think of this as a large, all-you-can-eat combo platter served on your table in unlimited quantities.
Three types of farsan (fried snacky things with a plethora of chutneys). Two kinds of vegetables. Two kinds of lentils.
Dal and kadhi (hot and spicy yoghurt based dish). A basket of different rotis and puris (deep fried breads). Two kinds
of rice. Two desserts. And mango pulp which the purists pour all over the plate. All this for a modest price. Gasp! A
note on Gujarati cuisine: most dishes tend to be on the sweet side and that makes an interesting combination with the
spiciness of the food. Mumbaikers either love it or ignore it.
Try Golden Star Thali, 330 Raja Rammohan Roy Road, Opp. Charni Road Station, Girgaum, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2363
1983. Or, Chetana, 34 K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2284 4968

18. Kheema pao

Minced mutton cooked with onions, garlic, tomatoes, chillies and spices takes on many avatars here. In its original
form, it is refereed to as plain Kheema. Topped with a crisply fried sunny side up egg, it is called kheema single fry.
And scrambled with eggs, it is called ghotala. And all three are best eaten with Mumbai's signature pao bread bun.
Traditionally a breakfast dish, it is now eaten at all times of the day or night.

Try it at Stadium Restaurant, IMC Building, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2204 6819. Or at
Olympia, Rahim Mansion, 1 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2202 1043.

Grilled kebabs are a staple. 19. Kebabs

While the kebab per se may not be unique to Mumbai or the region, a few varieties that emerged from the Bohri
Muslim community are truly unique. Gurda (kidney) and kaleji (liver) top this list. Charcoal grilled, they go great with
freshly sliced onions and a squeeze of lime.

Try it at Ayubs, on the street behind Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, open only in the evenings. The best beef kebabs
are to be found at Sarvi, 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station, Byculla (W). Tel: +91 9833 533
305. And for some outstanding north west frontier style Kebabs, go to Peshawari, ITC Grand Maratha, Sahar Road,
Andheri (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 2830 3030
20. Kolhapuri mutton

The hotter the temperature of a city, the hotter the food. And it's true of this mutton dish that has its roots in Kolhapur,
a city in the south of Maharashtra. It comes in two coconut based gravy variations. The nuclear strength version is
called Tambda Rassa (a red chili spiced extravaganza). And the milder version is called Pandhara Rassa (yoghurt,
cashew nuts and raisin embellished). Both go well with either rotis or rice when you're in the mood for a feast.

Taste the heat at Purepur Kolhapur, 1, Aditya Apartments, Parleshwar Road, Parleshwar Mandir, Vile Parle (E). Tel:
+91 (0) 22 2613 4569

Maharashtran style kanda poha.21. Kanda

poha

A must-have in Maharashtrian families, you will rarely find a badly made kanda poha dish. This simple, easy to make
snack is made with kanda (onions) and poha (flaked rice) mixed with chopped potatoes and green chillies, sometimes
even peas. Tempered with mustard seeds and garnished with fresh coriander and a squeeze of lime, it lights up dull
days. And cements the many days in a marriage together.

Try it at Aswad, L J Road, Opp. Shiv Sena Bhavan, Dadar (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2445 1871

22. Misal pao

Quintessentially from Pune, this rustic dish is made from a mix of curried sprouted lentils, topped with batata (potato)
bhaji, poha (rice flakes), chivda, farsan, raw chopped onions and tomato. This hot and spicy dish is eaten with pao
bread. To cut the fire, add some yogurt.

A good version can be found at Vinay Health Home, 71/83, Jawahar Mansion, Fanaswadi-Thakurdwar Corner,
Girgaum. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2208 1211

23. Modak

A Maharashtrian sweet prepared during the Ganesh festival around August, modak is offered to Lord Ganesha, the
elephant-headed god, because it is his favorite sweet. Wheat flour dough kneaded with milk, stuffed with grated
coconut and mixed with sugar or jaggery. Shaped like a teardrop and steamed or fried. Typically 21 are made as an
auspicious offering to the god and tons more for the rest of the family. It's a pity that it's made only once a year and in
this region.

Some sweet shops do keep modak during the festival season but it is made of khoya (thickened milk) and is not the
real thing. For that, you’ll have to drop into a home that is celebrating the festival.

24. Mutton dhansak

Representative of Parsi cuisine, the mutton dhansak falls in the category of soul food. It is mutton cooked till tender in
a lentil dal laden with spices. And it is eaten with browned rice topped with deep fried onions, garnished with mutton
kebabs and sprinkled with a crunchy mix of chopped raw onions, raw tomatoes and coriander. And the aftereffects
are usually exhibited in a sound afternoon nap.

This rich dish, outside of a home, is best had at Ripon Club, 123A MG Road, Opp. Bombay University, Fountain. Find
a member to take you there. Failing which, go to Britannia, Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate. Tel: +91
(0) 22 2261 5264
 Mutton sukke is without gravy.25. Mutton
sukke

Mumbaikers break out into sweat over this Malvani-style mutton dish. Chunks of mutton on the bone marinated in a
hot Malvani masala and fried with onions and garlic and red chillies until everything browns and the meat is tender. It
can be eaten with chapattis or wadé, rice flour pancakes.

Try it at Jai Hind Lunch Home, 6 Mantri Corner, Gokhale Road South, Dadar. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2431 4256

26. Patra ni machhi

Another top of the line Parsi dish. This is freshly caught pomfret, marinated in a chutney that includes grated coconut,
green chillies, fresh coriander and mint leaves, cumin, sugar, lime and salt. It is then wrapped in banana leaf and
steamed for about ten minutes. Gently unwrap and consume quietly, close your eyes and savor the flavor of a
culinary culture that will fill your senses.

A very good patra ni machhi can be had at Ideal Corner, 12/F/G, Hornby View, Gunbow Street, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22
2262 1930. Only available on Saturdays.
 Pao bhaji off the street.27. Pao bhaji

This specialty dish from the by-lanes of Mumbai has mashed steamed mixed vegetables (mainly potatoes, peas,
tomatoes, onions and green pepper) cooked in spices and loads of butter. It is eaten with pao, which is shallow fried
in even more butter and served with chopped onions. Sometimes cheese and paneer (cottage cheese) are added.
People from all over India come to Mumbai to eat pao bhaji.

Though widely available at local restaurants, try the sinful pao bhaji at Sardar, 166A Tardeo Road Junction, Opp. Bus
Depot, Tardeo. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2353 0208

28. Prawns koliwada

Contrary to popular belief that this dish originated on the Konkan coast, it is actually a very Mumbai dish and the story
goes that it was created in the Sion fishing village, or koliwada, by -- and here’s the twist -- a north Indian immigrant
from Punjab. These deep-fried prawns marinated in a batter of flour, spices and ginger garlic paste can be identified
by their signature red color. And they are crunchy yet melt in the mouth. Pick the smaller sized prawns, they taste
better.

Try the real thing at Hazara, GTB Nagar, Near the Gurudwara, Sion (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2409 2617
 Nalli nihari, a Muslim specialty.29. Nalli
nihari

The phrase "breakfast like a king" gets taken to another level when you dig into a plate of Muslim nalli nihari. You
could probably fight a war after this power meal made of soft and tender mutton shanks in a rich, greasy gravy filled
with marrow and steeped in spices, the flavors exploding with delight. A crisp roti makes for the perfect
accompaniment. Can you stomach this for breakfast?

The best Nalli Nihari can be had at Noor Mohammadi, 179 Wazir Building, Abdul Hakim Noor Mohammadi Chowk,
Bhendi Bazaar. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2347 6188. Just make sure you reach before noon or you may leave disappointed.

30. Puran poli

A festive dish made by Maharashtrians and Gujaratis especially during Holi (to celebrate the end of the winter
season) and Dussehra (to celebrate the triumph of Lord Ram over the demon Raavan). It is made by simmering
chana dal (yellow gram) with sugar or jaggery (molasses or gur) till it dries up, and then hand-ground to smoothen it
out. Nutmeg and cardamom powders are the flavorings. Palm sized balls of this paste are stuffed into wheat flour
dough and rolled out to be roasted on a tawa frying pan with a little ghee (clarified butter). Do add a lot of ghee when
you're eating them, they taste tops then.

Puran polis can be found in some grocery stores but they are a poor mass produced version of the real thing. The
real ones can only be found in a Maharashtrian or Gujarati home.

31. Ragda pattice

This twin delight is a combination of ragda, soft spicy rugged flavored chickpeas, and pattice, mashed potatoes
shaped into fat patties and fried. The ideal way is to eat it is to crush the ragda with the pattice and pile on the
accompaniments -- finely chopped onions, tangy tamarind sauce and fiery green chutney. Mash it all up and dig in for
the true flavor of Mumbai.

A favorite street food, it is part of the chaat family and is commonly found all over. A good place to try it is Kailash
Parbat, Sheela Mahal, 1st Pasta Lane, Colaba. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2284 1972

Sabudana vada is fasting food. 32.

Sabudana vada

For Maharashtrians, sabudana vada is the traditional 'upvas' or fasting food and the really hardcore folk fast up to
four times a week. And the good news is that the restaurants never fail to oblige with hot crisp sabudana vadas for
those who don’t have the time to make it at home. Sago is soaked until it puffs up. Crushed boiled potatoes, green
chillies, coriander leaves and salt are kneaded in. They are then fashioned into palm-sized patties and deep fried until
they turn crisp and golden. And then one bite leads to another and another.

Sabudana vadas are available at most Udipi hotels and roadside stalls. But try the ones at the R K Studio Canteen,
Chembur. They are really special.

33. Samosa

It's best to bite into a hot one, hiding under a street stall during a typical Mumbai monsoon downpour. When you go
through the crisp crust, you meet the steaming and savory-with-a-hint-of-sour chunks of spiced potatoes and peas.
Lovingly shaped into triangles and deep fried, these calorie busters are worth the one week that you’ll need on the
treadmill to work it off. But a samosa can also give you heart at that last leg of your day when transport is not in sight,
it's dark and there's a long way home.

You can ask for Guru Kripa samosas at many stores across Mumbai. Or go to the original Guru Kripa Hotel, 40, Guru
Kripa Building, near SIES College, Sion. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2407 1237

Mumbai's favorite sizzler from Kobe.34.

Sizzlers

As kids, a sizzler was part of the "growing up in Mumbai" experience. The sight of a sizzler arriving at your table, like
an old steam engine, sizzling and steaming and spluttering to a halt in front of you, was an exciting experience. A
combination of grilled meats and vegetables served on what looks like a hot chunk of black iron, with a side of
mashed potatoes or fries and gravy. Sizzlers come in several vegetarian options too. Long lines at restaurants are a
testimony to its enduring popularity.

Give sizzlers a try at places synonymous with the word. Such as Kobe, 13/14 Sukh Sagar, Hughes Road, Opera
House. Tel: +91 (0) 22 23632174. Or Yoko, West View, S V Road, near Akbarally’s, Santacruz (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22
2649 2313
 Pork sorpatel, a Goan delicacy. 35. Sorpatel
and vindaloo

These Goan specialties set your taste buds on fire and grandmothers are rumored to pass out feni shots (a strong
Goan brew made from palm or cashew nuts) to douse the flames. The sorpatel has all parts of the pig, including its
blood, in the recipe. And the vindaloo is made with chunks of fatty pork meat cooked with spices, red chillies and lots
of vinegar. Ideally, they are eaten the next day, after having spent the night soaking in all the juices and flavors.

Try sorpatel, vindaloo and other Goan delicacies at City Kitchen, 301 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort. Tel: +91 (0)
22 2261 0002. Or, New Martin Hotel, 11 Glamour House, Strand Cinema Road, Colaba. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2202 9606

36. South Indian 'meals'

"Meals Ready" is a common sign found outside South Indian restaurants. In front of Udipi hotels, a euphemism for all
south Indian cuisine, it means vegetarian meals laid out on a thaali, a stainless steel plate, or on a traditional banana
leaf. A couple of vegetables, sambar (spicy and sour lentils and vegetables boiled with masalas and spices), rasam
(a hot and fiery lentil soup-like dish) and curds (yoghurt) served with heaps of rice and eaten in that order. A non-
vegetarian version of the 'Meals' can be found in 'Military' hotels.

Try the 'meals' at this 68-year-old haven: Rama Nayak’s Udipi Shree Krishna Boarding, bang outside the Matunga (E)
station. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2414 2422
 Zhunka bhakar. 37. Zhunka bhakar

This dish has deep roots in the farming and working class communities of interior Maharashtra. Considered the
common man's food, a political decision was made at the highest echelons of government to make it available
everywhere. Overnight, thousands of zhunka bhakar stalls opened, none pricing it more than Rs 10. Traditionally, the
zhunka is made using chopped onions tempered with mustard seeds and kadipatta leaves mixed with chickpea flour
and is dry. It is eaten with jowar (millet) bhakri or roti.

Try the stalls opposite Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (originally called Victoria Terminus) and BMC Headquarters.

38. Varan bhaat

If you wanted to name one truly soul satisfying food of Mumbai city, then this would be it. The simple and truly humble
dish is made by lightly tempering cooked-till-soft toor dal (a lentil) with ghee (clarified butter), turmeric and cumin
powder. Served over steaming hot rice, or bhaat, it assumes magical, mythical proportions.

A staple in Maharashtrian homes, that's really where you should be eating it. But do give Diva Maharashtracha a try.
T H Kataria Marg, Mahim. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2445 4433.
 Fresh, steamed, healthy South Indian
idlis.39. South Indian tiffin (idlis and vadas)

What started as tiffin in British India -- a light meal that was had between meals -- has become a rage all over the
country. And especially in hard working Mumbai. Here you will find a South Indian tiffin available every half a
kilometer and at any time of day or night. These steamed (idlis) or fried (vadas) dumplings made with multi-grain lentil
batter are best scooped up with coconut chutney or dunked into hot sambar (spicy and sour lentil and vegetable
soup, boiled with masalas and spices).

The finest South Indian Tiffin can be found at Madras Café (+91 (0) 22 2401 4419), Anand Bhavan (+91 (0) 22 2401
5745) and Idli House (+91 (0) 22 3246 0111), all located around King’s Circle, Matunga.

The vada pao is a Mumbai icon. 40. Vada

pao
In the vast fast food world of Mumbai, this is the tastiest "cutlet in a bun" by a mile. And no, it's not available at
McDonald's. Every Mumbaiker's favorite on-the-go snack, the vada pao satiates millions every day. And the recipe,
hard to duplicate because each stall owner has his own secret ingredient, uses a combination of boiled potatoes
mashed with fresh coriander, green chillies, a bit of ginger and sometimes garlic, made into palm-sized balls, dipped
in a chickpea flour batter and deep fried till golden. They are stuffed into a pao, which has been applied with a layer of
spicy green chutney and a fiery red garlic crush. Tastes best when eaten hot.

It's a crime to eat vada pao anywhere else but on the street. Try Ashok Satam's Stall, on the Flora Fountain side of
the Central Telegraph Office (CTO), Fort.

Writer, filmmaker, foodie, and digital artist. Currently working on my first 'Bollywood' feature film.

Read more about Sanjiv Khamgaonkar

10 of the best street foods in Mumbai
Patties, puris, kebabs and lassis … Mumbai is the city of a million hawkers. Monisha Rajesh picks the
tastiest street food in town

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"Your arteries will tighten at the sight, but your stomach will thank you." Pav Bhaji being made.
Photograph: Rajkumar Kandukuri/India Pictures on flickr/All rights reserved

Pav bhaji @ Sardar's

A five-minute walk from Mumbai Central station, Sardar's Refreshments specialises in straight-
from-the-streets, finger-licking pav bhaji. It's hidden behind white barriers, but mutter "Pav
bhaji?" to any passerby and they will point you in the right direction. Two metal plates arrive
within minutes: one containing thick vegetable masala straddled by a slab of butter, the other
with fluffy rolls so well buttered the bread's yellow. Your arteries will tighten at the sight, but
your stomach will thank you. Squeeze some lemon on top and dig in with your fingers.
• Sardar's, 166-A Tardeo Road Junction, Tulsiwadi, near Tardeo bus depot, +91 22 2494 0208,
£1 a serving. Open noon-2am

Kebabs @ Sarvi

Photograph: Richard T.
Nowitz/Corbis

Mohammed Ali Road is the benchmark for skewered kebabs, which hang from smoking stalls
like sizzling curtains. But towards the north end, veer left on to Dimtimkar Road and head to
Sarvi. It's been around for 90 years, has no sign, looks fire damaged, and grills the most tender
beef seekh kebabs in the city. Crisp on the outside and melting in the middle, with a hint of mint
– rumour has it they grind papaya into the meat. Get there early evening, as they sell out fast.
• Sarvi, 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station, Byculla West, +91 98 3353
3305, from Rs78 (£1) for four kebabs. Open 9.30am-11.30pm

Vada Pav @ Anand

 Photograph: ARKO
DATTA/Reuters/Corbis

It's every Mumbaikar's grab-and-go snack. Potato patties mashed with garlic, chillies and
coriander are dipped in chickpea flour, fried golden, then laid in "pav" – a springy white bap
that's well buttered, spread with coriander chutney and sprinkled with garlic and chilli powder.
Everyone from students to businessmen flock to the Anand stall, under a purple and green
awning, which whips up more than a thousand a day. An added touch is a plate of rock-salted
fried green chillies, which aren't nearly as fiery as you might think. Cool off with mini bottles of
sweet lassi from the stall to the left.
• Anand, opposite Mithibai College, Gulmohar Road, Vile Parle West, 20p a bap. Open 7.30am-
11pm

Pani puri @ Elco Pani Puri Centre

Photograph: PDX on
flickr/All rights reserved
The craft is part of the fun: vendors poke a thumb into a crisp fried sphere, fill it with potato,
chickpeas, onion and sprouted lentils, then dunk it into a sweet-and-sour mix of tamarind and
jaggery, then a liquid blend of coriander, mint and garam masala. Eat it whole, and unless you
have a stomach of steel, don't go anywhere but Elco Pani Puri Centre, where they use mineral
water. Pull up a red plastic stool and sit on the pavement with Bandra's locals, and the occasional
Bollywood actress.
• Elco Pani Puri Centre, 2/A Elco Market, 46 Hill Rd, Bandra West, +91 22 2645 7677, 50p for
two. Open 10am-11.30pm

Chicken tikka rolls @ Bademiya

Photograph: usheng on
Flickr/All rights reserved

No Mumbaikar seems to have been to Bademiya before 3am – a testament to the late-night allure
of its charcoaled, meaty goodness. A glorified open-air kitchen on wheels, Bademiya sits in a
backstreet directly behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Waiters in red aprons appear from a cloud
of smoke and hand over plastic menus, but the chicken tikka rolls are the best option. Slid off
skewers, the meat is wrapped in a steaming roomali roti – as thin and soft as a handkerchief –
and topped with strips of fried onion. No sauce required, its juices are enough.
• Bademiya, Tulloch Rd, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, £1.50 a roll. Open 5pm-4am

Bhel puri @ Sharmajee's and Badshah's

Bhel puri is one of the most common all-day snacks: a crunchy, cold, sweet-and-sour mix of
puffed rice, sev, chopped onion and potato, and tamarind chutney. It has to be mixed and eaten
on the spot, and most vendors will concoct their own variations. Chowpatty Beach is the home of
bhel puri, where it should be eaten while strolling along the shore. Try Sharmajee's (No 22) or
Badshah's (No 11), amid the cluster of stalls opposite the Levi's Store, where rugs are spread out
and bhel puri "touts" will bring it over to you.
• Sharmajee's and Badshah's, Chowpatty Beach, near Charni Road station, 30p per plate. Open
all day

Kheema Pav @ Olympia Coffee House

Photograph: drum881 on
flickr/All rights reserved

Forget trawling Colaba's tourist spots for fry-ups and cereal, and try breakfast the way the locals
do it – with a plate of fried minced meat and hunks of bread to mop it up. Directly opposite the
infamous Leopold's, Olympia does saucers of delicious masala kheema – and don't forget, this is
a coffee house, so top it off with a short, sweet cup. Olympia is a local Muslim haunt with not a
female in sight, but female visitors shouldn't be put off: the waiters and customers are friendly,
courteous and no one bats an eyelid.
• Olympia Coffee House, Rahim Mansion, 1 SB Singh Rd, Colaba, +91 22 2202 1043, £1 a plate.
Open 7am-midnight

Channa bhatura @ Cream Centre

Photograph: hue.finder on
flickr/All rights reserved

As a rule, restaurants with laminated menus showing photos of their food aren't to be trusted.
Cream Centre is an exception. It does a version of channa bhatura that's a bit on the oily side, but
it's rated the best in Mumbai by the hordes of students, families and workers on breaks. Sit tight
in your booth as a football-sized, deep-fried puri arrives alongside a bowl of creamy masala
chickpeas, diced potatoes and onions. Poke a finger in the top and watch the puri deflate slowly
into a chewy bread for scooping up the masala.
• Cream Centre, Fulchand Niwas 25/B Chowpatty Sea Face, +91 22 2367 9222, £2 a serving.
Open noon-11.30pm

Crab @ Mahesh Lunch Home

 Photograph: Kirti Poddar
on Flickr/Some rights reserved

Strictly not street food, but it's a sin to come to Mumbai and not eat crab. Trishna is excellent,
but full of expats and tourists, so try Mahesh, around the corner from the Mocambo Café, in Fort.
Order the jumbo butter garlic crab with a roomali roti to wipe up the crunchy bits of garlic and
chilli. If you're unsure about portions, waiters will happily bring your crab to the table to wave a
leg at you. There's only one way to eat it – with a bib and both hands, making as much mess as
you like.
• Mahesh Lunch Home, 8-B Cawasji Patel Street, Fort, +91 22 2287 0938, £10. Call for opening
hours

Juices and milkshakes @ Bachelorr's

Photograph: jvanslem on
Flickr/All rights reserved
Bachelorr's (yes, they've added an extra "r") is the definitive hangout for smoothies, shakes and
juices. It's been in business since the 1940s and has generated a loyal following, who gather by
the roadside kiosk during warm evenings, perched on car bonnets and in open boots. The cream-
and-strawberry milkshake is a classic, but it also churns out numerous chocolate variations –
from Classic Chocolate and Black Gold Premium to Liquid Marble – along with a host of fresh
lime, coconut water and lychee juices.
• Bachelorr's, Chowpatty Sea Face, opposite Birla Krida Kendra, near Charni Rd station, +91
22 2368 1408, from £1-2. Open 3pm-11pm