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Dermatologic Therapy, Vol. 14, 2001, 181±187 Copyright # Blackwell Science, Inc.

, 2001
Printed in the United States  All rights reserved
DERMATOLOGIC THERAPY
ISSN 1396-0296

Cosmetics and contact dermatitis


RONNI WOLF, DANNY WOLF, BINNUR TUÈZUÈN, & YALCIN TUÈZUÈN
Department of Dermatology, Tel Aviv Sourasky Medical Center, and the Sackler Faculty
of Medicine, Tel Aviv University, Tel Aviv, Israel
Pediatric Outpatient Clinic, Hasharon Region, Kupat Holim, Israel
Department of Dermatology, Trakya University, Medical Faculty, Edrine, Turkey
University of Istanbul, Cerrahpasa Medical Faculty, Istanbul, Turkey

ABSTRACT: Modern cosmetic and skin care products are safe for most users and adverse reactions
to them are very rare considering the number of people in contact with numerous products over a
lifetime of use. Improvements in safety, tolerance, and skin compatibility will not prevent cosmetic
product side effects from increasing in the future because of the continuing goals of intensifying
their biological activity and therapeutic efficacy. Therefore, now more than ever, dermatologists
should be familiar with all possible untoward reactions to cosmetics. Adverse reactions include an
extreme variant of sensitive skin, called ``cosmetic intolerance syndrome,'' describing individuals
who are no longer able to tolerate a wide range of cosmetic products. ``True'' allergic reactions to
cosmetics occur much less commonly than irritant reactions. These are of great importance to the
dermatologist because they are more serious, more difficult to treat, and require absolute abstention
from the causative agent. Eczematous, damaged skin is especially prone to develop allergies.

KEYWORDS: allergic contact dermatitis, cosmetic intolerance syndrome, fragrance-free, fragrance,


hypoallergenic, natural, pigmented cosmetic dermatitis, photocontact dermatitis.

Cosmetics and skin care products are integral These cases occupy a significant part of the daily
parts of daily grooming, with the average Amer- patient load of most dermatologists.
ican adult using at least seven different skin care In general, cosmetics are safe and well toler-
products each day. There are about $500 worth of ated by most users since reputable companies
cosmetics in the average American home. invest heavily in safety, quality control, and
Although this includes products that have been product testing prior to releasing a cosmetic on
tried once and discarded, many of them are in the market. In spite of these precautions, side
regular use. There are more than 2000 companies effects to cosmetics do occur. It is expected that,
that manufacture and/or distribute cosmetics in despite improvements in safety, tolerance, and
the United States. The vast amount of space skin compatibility, side effects to cosmetic pro-
provided for them in stores, the extensive discus- ducts will not decrease because of the continuing
sion of skin care issues in popular magazines, and efforts to intensify their biologic activity and
prime-time television coverage of appearance- therapeutic efficacy. It is imperative for dermatol-
related topics are further testimony to the popu- ogists to become familiar with all possible side
larity and marketing value of cosmetics. Fortu- effects and untoward reactions of cosmetics. The
nately adverse reactions to cosmetics are very following article provides this fundamental in-
rare, considering the number of people in contact formation.
with so many products over a lifetime of use.

Sensitive skin and cosmetic


Address correspondence and reprint requests to: Ronni intolerance syndrome
Wolf, MD, Department of Dermatology, Tel Aviv Sourasky
Medical Center, 6 Weizman St., Tel Aviv, Israel, or e-mail: Although the term ``sensitive skin'' is widely used
wolf_r@netvision.net.il. both by consumers and cosmetic chemists, there

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Wolf et al.

is no precise definition for it. It is largely agreed moisturizers, lip and eye cosmetics, and face
that this is a lay term used by individuals who powder. Draelos (3,4) permits the use of a mild
consider themselves to be more intolerant of synthetic detergent soap (e.g., Oil of Olay), facial
topical preparations than the general population. cleanser, shampoo, and a bland facial moistur-
This intolerance manifests itself as burning, izer (Cetaphil cream) and/or a moisturizer with
itching, stinging, or tightness with or without sunscreen (Oil of Olay Complete Daily UV
objective symptoms. The onset or exacerbation of Protectant). It is our personal experience that
the condition is temporally correlated with the at least some of the patients will not tolerate any
application of the offending product. detergent or moisturizer, even the very mild
An extreme variant of sensitive skin Ð ``cos- ones, during the acute phase. We use Maibach
metic intolerance syndrome'' (1) or ``status and Engassers very demanding approach, but for
cosmeticus'' (2) Ð describes individuals who are a shorter period of time (2±4 weeks), after which
no longer able to tolerate a range of cosmetic the patient can add one facial cosmetic of low
products. Cosmetic intolerance syndrome is not a allergic and irritant potential each week. The
single entity, but rather a clinical condition dermatologist should not be surprised, however,
resulting from one or more exogenous and/or at the strenuous resistance of the patient to
endogenous factors (1). Some of the underlying what would seem to be such an effortless
exogenous factors are subjective (sensory) and protocol. With few exceptions, a woman feels
objective irritation, allergic or photoallergic con- stripped bare when denied the touches of color
tact dermatitis, and contact urticaria. Among the and glow that she has adopted over time to
relevant endogenous factors are seborrheic der- create her best ``look.'' A practical approach
matitis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, perioral der- must be taken to achieve compliance.
matitis, acne, status eczematicus, diminished The above are only general guidelines that
barrier function, xerotic skin, heightened neuro- might give the reader an idea of how to approach
sensory input, and dysmorphobia. this specific group of patients. As mentioned
This group of patients challenges diagnostic earlier, sensitive skin is not a single entity, but a
skills, since it is impossible to delineate the heterogeneous syndrome, and each patient will
culpable etiologic factor based on morphologic have to be evaluated and treated with individually
characteristics and objective cutaneous signs. tailored management.
Furthermore, the objective symptoms and com- Finally, the ``upper eyelid dermatitis syn-
plaints, which are very similar among these drome'' coined by Maibach et al. (5) is similar in
patients, do not necessarily reflect the severity of its etiologies, mechanisms, and therapeutic ap-
objective findings. proaches to the cosmetic intolerance syndrome,
The management of patients with sensitive except that it manifests itself mainly (but not
skin syndrome is not clear-cut. Some experts exclusively) on the upper eyelids.
(1,2) suggest identifying the causative ingredient
or mechanism as the first step, while we agree
with other authorities (3,4) who contend that Allergic contact dermatitis
treatment in the form of adherence to a specific
cosmetic elimination program is the first and ``True'' allergic reactions to cosmetics occur
most important step that should be taken. We much less commonly than irritant reactions.
do not suggest conducting any diagnostic pro- They are nevertheless of great importance to
cedure, such as patch or photopatch tests, facial the dermatologist because they are more serious,
lactic acid sting test, etc., during the acute phase more difficult to treat, more widespread, and
of the disease because it would not have often signal an intolerance to many different
immediate consequences. Moreover, it might types of products with related ingredients.
lead to false-positive results and, more signi- Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) requires abso-
ficantly, may cause an exacerbation of the lute abstention from the causative agent. Esti-
disease. Furthermore, it is our experience that mates of the prevalence or incidence of allergic
many of these patients react to a wide range of reactions are always problematic since consu-
substances and need a vigorous cosmetic elim- mers who experience untoward reactions to a
ination program. Maibach and Engasser (1) cosmetic product usually discard or discontinue
suggested the elimination of all cosmetics for a using it rather than consult a physician. While
period of 3±6 months, except for glycerin and this choice of action is probably most appro-
rose water as a substitute for commercial priate for the consumer, it hinders our ability to

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Cosmetics and contact dermatitis

quantitate the scope of the problem. Several the general population. Differences in preva-
studies have tried to address this question. In lence between various countries occur because
one from the Netherlands by De Groot et al. (6), of the differences in cultural and environmen-
1609 individuals (838 men, 771 women) were tal factors, leading to different behaviors and
queried about adverse reactions to cosmetics use of skin care products, as well as to
and toiletries. Although 196 (12.2%) of them differences in patch test techniques, patient
claimed to have suffered from side effects, none selection, and interpretation of the results and
of the 20 tested patients showed any cosmetic their relevance.
allergy (6). In a related study performed by the Fragrances are composed of 10±300 individual
same group (7), 982 female clients of beauticians ingredients, and details on their specific com-
were interviewed on cosmetic-related side effects positions are not generally available, being seen
they had experienced in the preceding 5 years: as trade secrets by the fragrance industry.
254 (25.9%) claimed to have experienced such Detecting a fragrance allergy and identifying
reactions. One-hundred and fifty women were the causative component is thus a difficult and
tested with the European standard patch test complex matter.
tray and cosmetic series. Allergic reaction was In 1977 Larsen (8) introduced a fragrance
considered ``proven'' in 3 patients (2%) and mixture as a screening patch test for fragrance
``possible'' in 7 (4.7%). The authors concluded allergy. It originally contained eight fragrance
that allergy is responsible for less than 10% of all materials, each in a concentration of 2%. In 1984
reactions to cosmetics and toiletries. The major- the concentration was reduced to 1%. The
ity of reactions are due to irritation. It should be fragrance mix is part of the standard patch test
emphasized, however, that in those patients series, and together with balsam of Peru, serves as
seen by dermatologists with eczema and tested a screening agent for fragrance contact allergy.
for suspected allergic contact dermatitis, the Although it is far from perfect because it can
incidence is about 10%. cause both false-positive and false-negative re-
The face and the eyelids are the most fre- sults, it has been used for years with satisfactory
quently affected sites, with more than 50% of all results and has been proven to be a very useful
cases. Skin care products (moisturizers and tool. The fragrance mix includes the five most
cleansers) account for more than half of all frequent allergens, usually second after nickel
adverse reactions, followed by hair preparations sulfate (9,10).
(including dyes), nail cosmetics, perfumes, facial The problem of fragrance allergy is not so
makeup products, sun care products, shaving much one of diagnosis (most patients are aware of
preparations, and deodorants. their allergy even without consulting a doctor),
but rather of persuading the patient of its
relevance and the need for strict avoidance. To
paraphrase the statement that was originally
Fragrances, the most common intended for nickel, ``Fragrance is with you and
allergen in cosmetics does things for you from the time you get up in
the morning until you go to sleep at night,'' thus
Fragrances are used in cosmetics specifically making avoidance an extremely demanding and
designed for their smell (perfumes, aftershaves, difficult task.
deodorants, etc.) and as a common additive. To complicate matters and add to the difficul-
Virtually all cosmetics and toiletries are scented, ties of the fragrance allergic patient, use of
even ``unscented'' cosmetics contain a ``masking'' ``fragrance-free'' products does not guarantee that
perfume. Detergents, fabric softeners, laundry the product is actually free of fragrance. Since the
products, oral hygiene products (toothpastes, term fragrance is defined as a natural or synthetic
mouthwash, dental floss), sanitary pads, house- substance used solely to impart a scent to a
hold cleaning products, solvents, polishes, and cosmetic product, many fragrances that have
waxes all contain fragrances. As a consequence, more than one function, acting as preservatives,
contact with fragrance ingredients is common. emollients, fixatives, or disinfectants, can be
Fragrances are the leading cause of ACD included in a fragrance-free product, since they
from cosmetics, accounting for more than 30% do not fulfill the criterion of fragrance, that is, a
of identified cases. The incidence of ACD substance functioning solely to provide a scent.
ranges from 6 to 14% of eczema patients seen Furthermore, fragrance-free products may con-
by dermatologists and comprises about 1% of tain ``natural'' plant extracts, flower extracts, and

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Wolf et al.

essential oils (e.g., rose, chamomile, and sandal- Eczematous, damaged skin is easily
wood), all of which are actually fragrances.
Natural products are therefore no less problem-
sensitized
atic to fragrance-sensitive patients.
Patients should be informed that products Inflammation and eczema of the skin with the
designated as being fragrance-free (Table 1) may resulting diminished barrier function are impor-
not really be so, and labels such as unscented, tant predisposing factors in the development of
hypoallergenic, dermatologist-tested, for sensitive ACD. The following are examples relevant to the
skin, or dermatologist recommended are less than use of cosmetics.
worthless. Parabens are by far the most frequently used
preservatives in cosmetics and toiletries (99% of
the leave-on products and 77% of the rinse-off
Table 1. Representative fragrance-free products ones). Considering their wide use, the incidence
Cleansers of allergic reaction to these products is certainly
Aquanil cleanser very low. On the other hand, when they are used
Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser (liquid) in topical therapeutic agents, these same para-
Clinique bars bens sensitize about 1% of the population. This
CVS transparent facial bar soap Ð unscented has caused most pharmaceutical manufacturers
Neutrogena therapeutic facial bar Ð fragrance-free to remove parabens from topical therapeutics, but
Neutrogena nondrying cleanser not from cosmetic products. Indeed, even pre-
Oilatum AD
parations that are applied to the delicate skin of
Phisoderm Unscented skin cleansing bar
Vanicream bar
the eyelids, such as mascara, including the so-
Shampoos called hypoallergenic variety, also contain para-
DHS Clear shampoo and conditioning rinse bens and cause neither difficulties nor adverse
Free and Clear shampoo and conditioner reactions. The explanation for this apparent
Pentrax paradox is that while cosmetics are applied to
T/Sal shampoo normal skin, therapeutic agents are applied to
Moisturizers inflamed, eczematous, excoriated, or otherwise
Almay moisturizers damaged skin, which is much more readily
Eucerin original moisturizing cream sensitized than even the thinnest of healthy skin.
Lubriderm unscented This and several other puzzling aspects of the use
SBR Lipocream
of paraben preservatives is labeled ``paraben
Vaniderm cream and lotion
Vaseline petrolatum jelly
paradox'' (11,12).
Deodorants The use of lanolin is associated with similar
Almay unscented puzzling aspects for which the name lanolin
Almay clear gel fragrance-free deodorant paradox has been suggested in analogy to the
Ban Original roll-on paraben paradox (13). The lanolin found in
Keops (Rock) topical therapeutic agents sensitizes a high
Eyeliner/Eyebrow pencils proportion of patients, whereas the same lanolin
Any product is generally ``safe'' in cosmetics so widely used
Nails by millions of individuals. Furthermore, patients
Any product with an ACD to lanolin in a medication applied
Sunscreens
to a stasis ulcer can use lanolin-containing
Almay
Eucerin daily sun defense
cosmetics, even on the delicate skin of the face,
Neutrogena sensitive skin sunblock SPF 17 eyelids, and lips, and not experience any reac-
PreSun active clear gel SPF 30 tions (13). Lanolin-sensitive individuals often
Shade sunblock gel SPF 30 show false-negative patch test reactions. Next to
Solbar Avo formaldehyde, lanolin demonstrates the lowest
Hairsprays reproducibility in patch tests.
Allecreme unscented In summary, special care should be taken to
Almay protein conditioning hair spray extra avoid the application of sensitizing substances on
hold±Fragrance-free irritated, eczematous, or otherwise damaged skin.
Clinique serious hold Patients with sensitive skin, cosmetic intolerance
Jhirmack Salon Formula extra hold unscented
syndrome, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermati-
hairspray
tis, stasis dermatitis, xerotic dermatitis, and

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Cosmetics and contact dermatitis

intertriginous dermatitis are especially prone to over, we have not seen many allergic individuals
develop allergies and should avoid exposure to who can tolerate hypoallergenic cosmetics any
topical allergens. more than they can other products. How then
should an allergic patient proceed with purchas-
ing and using cosmetics?
Regulatory authorities in the United States, and
Hypoallergenic and natural more recently those in Europe, require an in-
cosmetics gredient declaration listed in descending order of
quantity on every cosmetic product offered for
There are thousands of ingredients available to sale to consumers. Reading these labels and
cosmetic chemists involved in creating a wide avoiding substances that have caused problems
variety of products, and there is enormous or allergies is the only way consumers can protect
variability in human skin, as well as innumerable themselves.
and unexpected reactions to chemicals. A genu- Natural botanical ingredients are not the
inely nonallergic product has yet to be invented. answer for sensitive-skin patients. There is a
Instead, we have many so-called hypoallergenic current trend toward using ``natural'' (i.e., mostly
cosmetics, a term that has been used to delineate vegetable not animal) ingredients. In spite of there
some products designed for patients with sensi- being no functional rationale for the inclusion of
tive skin. Hypoallergenicity literally means ``re- most plant extracts in cosmetics, they are added
duced allergy;'' in practical terms, these cosmetics to capture the interest of consumers for marketing
are supposed to produce fewer allergic reactions purposes.
than other cosmetic products (14). Dermatologists should know that plant-derived
Assessment of hypoallergenicity can be per- products are not safer or better tolerated than
formed by a variety of testing techniques that synthetic ones. Botanicals are more complex skin
examine the relative risk of a product to cause care additives than most dermatologists realize.
sensitization. Currently there is no agreement Many natural plant extracts are difficult to
among experts as to which test is the most characterize chemically, since more than 200
reliable, appropriate, and relevant to consumers. individual chemicals may be present in any one
Far more important, there are no federal stan- plant extract and their chemical composition
dards or definitions that govern the use of the depends on many factors, for example, the soil,
term ``hypoallergenic,'' and manufacturers of the season, and other environmental factors. For
these cosmetics are not required to submit this reason, when an adverse reaction or allergy to
substantiation of their hypoallergenic claims to such a material occurs, it is almost impossible to
the FDA. The term means whatever a particular determine the responsible ingredient.
company wants it to mean, and cosmetic com-
panies determine when and where to apply the
term ``hypoallergenic.'' Thus, although the theo- Pigmented cosmetic dermatitis
retical principles underlying the concept of
hypoallergy are generally beneficial, their practi- Pigmented contact dermatitis is believed to be
cal performance de facto rendered the term induced by very small amounts of contact aller-
meaningless. Products for sensitive skin currently gens which are in almost daily contact with the
comprise the largest and one of the fastest patients skin. This continuous exposure to low
growing segments of the skin care market. Where doses of allergens does not result in erythema,
does this situation leave consumers and their papules, swelling, or itching, as occurs in ordinary
dermatologists? contact dermatitis, but is often characterized
We have currently reached a stage where most solely by hyperpigmentation. Histologically, pig-
manufacturers use mainly mild ingredients that mented contact dermatitis does not appear as
have a low potential for causing allergies and/or spongiosis which is typical of acute dermatitis,
other adverse reactions. In reading the labels of but rather has basal liquefaction degeneration as a
various cosmetic products, we have found no dominant feature. In short, pigmented contact
differences between the ingredients of hypoaller- dermatitis is actually a variant of contact derma-
genic cosmetics and those that do not claim to be titis in which inflammatory components are slight
so. We know of no scientific, controlled study that and pigmentation dominates the clinical picture.
indicates hypoallergenic products cause fewer The term ``pigmented cosmetic dermatitis''
allergies than ``conventional'' products. More- was introduced in 1973 for what had previously

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Wolf et al.

been known as melanosis faciei feminae, or Photoallergic contact dermatitis is a form of


erroneously, Riehls melanosis. During the late cell-mediated hypersensitivity in which a photo-
1960s a research project was set up in Japan to activated chemical or a photoproduct acts as a
discover the nature, mechanism, and causative hapten or a complete antigen. The reaction is
agents of this disease. This study showed that based on the same immunologic mechanisms as
hyperpigmentation is a unique form of an allergic those of simple contact allergic reactions. Because
process and, after testing nearly 500 cosmetic UV radiation transforms certain chemicals into
ingredients, a number of contact sensitizers were allergens, it is required both for inducing and
identified, including fragrance materials and pig- eliciting the immune response. As in allergic
ments such as jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang oil, contact dermatitis, photoallergic reactions are
cananga oil, benzyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, elicited in only a small number of individuals
sandalwood oil, artificial sandalwood, geraniol, with a specifically altered immunologic back-
geranium oil, D&C, and yellow no. 11. The ground. The concentration of a chemical that will
researchers introduced an ``allergen controlled elicit a reaction is much lower than that needed to
system,'' meaning that the patients exclusively produce a phototoxic reaction; it is not dose
used cosmetics that were completely allergen- dependent, and there is no clinical reaction on
free. The results were impressive, with a complete first exposure.
cure in 30% and a remarkable improvement in an The most widespread outbreak of photoallergic
additional 40% of the patients with a disease that reactions to topically applied agents resulted from
until then had been of unknown etiology and the use of soaps and cleansers containing halo-
difficult to treat (15,16). genated salicylanilides and related compounds. In
Another Japanese group found that the me- the 1960s photocontact dermatitis reached the
chanism of hyperpigmentation following allergic proportions of a miniepidemic, when thousands
contact dermatitis and the melanogenic factors of individuals were affected after exposure to
are different from that induced by UV radiation these agents. After removal of the responsible
(17). A recent study from Israel showed that 16 of ingredients in soaps and toiletries, the number of
29 patients with pigmented contact dermatitis photosensitivity cases decreased dramatically.
reacted to one of the allergens of the European Among the antimicrobial agents, fenticlor has
standard series, whereas only 1 reacted to a currently taken a leading position as a photoaller-
fragrance series (18). gen, although positive reactions have also been
The impressive achievements made by the recorded for bithionol, hexachlorophene, and
Japanese researchers (15) notwithstanding, there trichlorocarbanilide. It should not escape notice
are still areas in the pathogenesis of the disease that all these compounds (based on chlorinated
that remain obscure. We still have no explanation phenol molecules) are chemically related, and
for the most basic question of why some allergens cross sensitivity between them has been recorded
cause pigmented dermatitis while other very as well.
similar ones cause ordinary contact dermatitis. It In the late 1970s a group of investigators
is especially noteworthy that the main group of identified musk ambrette found in toiletries as a
allergens that cause pigmented cosmetic derma- fragrance and fixative, as a photoallergen (19).
titis belong to botanical-derived ingredients. This synthetic chemical was widely used in the
1970s in aftershave lotions and colognes, as well
as in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions, and
Photocontact dermatitis dentifrice. It became the most commonly re-
ported photoallergen of that time, and of note,
The term photocontact dermatitis refers to a most cases were recorded in men. Furthermore,
condition wherein UV radiation in combination many patients sensitive to musk ambrette devel-
with an exogenous substance evokes a dermatitis oped persistent photosensitivity (19,20).
on sun-exposed skin. Although it often produces While the frequency of contact photoallergy to
pigmented dermatitis, this entity should be antibacterial agents, fragrance ingredients, and
separated from cosmetic pigmented dermatitis. topical medications has decreased over the years,
Photosensitivity can be divided into phototoxic reactions to sunscreen products have increased.
and photoallergic reactions. Since photoallergic The reason for this trend, which is probably not
contact dermatitis plays a major role in cosmetic going to change in the near future, is the
dermatitis, we will discuss only this variant of increasing awareness on the part of the public
photocontact dermatitis. and physicians of the carcinogenic potential of

186
Cosmetics and contact dermatitis

sunlight and its effect on premature skin aging. opinions of the institutions with which the
This has led not only to an increased use of authors are associated.
sunscreen products, but to the incorporation of
UV filters in a large variety of cosmetic products,
such as antiwrinkle creams, moisturizers, foun-
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