Class 100: single Thread Chain stitches

The chain stitch class stitches, with the assistance of a looper are formed when one or
more needle thread/threads pass through the fabric and form a loop on the underside of
the fabric.

There is no lower thread.

Stitch type 101

The single thread chain stitch is an intralooping formation that can be recognized by flat
straight thread formation similar in appearance to the lock stitch on the face of the fabric
(top view) and an elliptical loop on the underside (Bottom view).

The needle carries the thread through the fabric; a looper holds the thread and forms a
loop for the needle thread to enter as it descends for the next stitch.

Since each loop is in this way depends on the succeeding one, stitches in this class are
insecure.

Because of its insecurity it is used for basting operations. It can be only used where the
marks of the needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing (ironing).

A basting operation is temporary stitch allowing accurate placement of permanent

stitching.

This stitch type cannot be chained off i.e. sewn without fabric.

Another common use of class 100 stitches is in the special sewing processes of button
sewing, button holing and blind hemming. They utilize the zigzag version. These
machines are fast and require no bobbin. Their use generates a higher level of
consumer dissatisfaction.

Stitch type 103

The 103 chain stitch is blind stitch.

Blind stitches form on the fabric surface but do not penetrate to the face of the fabric
when stitch depth is properly adjusted.
The 103 stitch type is formed by a blind stitch machine that uses a curved needle, single
needle thread and spreader to from the loops on the surface of the fabric. A curved
needle barely skims the surface of the underlay of fabrics so that little or no thread is
visible on the right side of the garment and yet the hem is held securely.

Stitch type 104

Machine saddle stitching 104 is used primarily for ornamental stitching often found in
western wear.
Class 200

The stitch types n this class is originated as hand stitches.

The stitch type is characterized by a single thread which is passed through the material
as a single line thread.
This stitch type is used at the expensive end of garment production.

In some cases, machines have been developed to simulate hand stitching e.g. stitch
type 209 which is used around the outer edges of tailored jackets. This is referred as
Pick stitching. This machine is not fast by lock stitch standards.