Can anybody estimate SAM (standard allowed minute) of a garment without seeing

and/or analyzing the garment? No. It is not possible. To estimate SAM you have to
analyze the garment carefully and check different factors that affect the SAM. SAM of a
product varies according to the work content or simply according to number of
operations, length of seams, fabric types, stitching accuracy needed, sewing technology
to be used etc.

But still many of us inquire for approximate SAM values for basic products, like Tee
Shirt, Formal shirt, Formal trouser or jacket. An estimated SAM helps in capacity
planning of the factory, calculating requirement of machineries and even helps to
estimate CM (cut and make) costing of a garment.

However, for better understanding I will suggest you first to read articles ‘How to
calculate SAM for a garment?’. SAM is a short form of standard allowed minutes. It
means a normal operator can complete a task within the allowed time (minute) when he
works at 100% efficiency.

Standard minutes (SAM) of few basic products have been listed down with its SAM
range according to work content variation. In actual cases garment SAM may go outside
of the limit depending the above factors. This list will be updated time to time adding
more products.
Production of Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt in RMG Industry
A Focus on the Production of Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt in
Export Readymade Garment Industry

R.S. Balakumar
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management), Pursuing MBA (EXECUTIVE) in
(FASHION-TECH), MISTE., Chennai, India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Present scenario of the mentioned production data has been taken from the export garment
manufacturing Industry in Chennai.

Production capacity is normally varying factor to one factory to another this is because of the
skill based on sewing machine operators, sewing room masters / supervisors, working
atmosphere and availability of the sophisticated sewing machineries, quilts and attachments,
workers motivation production incentives and allowing the necessary benefits to the operators.

Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt

Multi skill training for sewing operators and necessary benefits given to skilled worker will make
less absenteeism as well as production increment constantly.

Analyzing the sewing operator’s skill grid will be the identical reflection on gaining the higher
productivity.

THE STANDARD TIME FOR EACH OPERATION, DAILY PRODUCTION TARGET AND
THE NUMBER OF SEWING MACHINISTS

(A) STANDARD TIME OF EACH OPERATION IN MEN’S LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS

Standard
Operation Allowed
No. Operation Minutes
1 Hem pocket mouth 0.15
2 Crease pocket 0.12
3 Run stitch of collar fall with interlining 0.70
4 Turn and Press 0.34
5 Top stitch fall 0.40
6 Stay stitch fall 0.20
7 Trim off fall 0.14
8 Hem collar band with interlining 0.38
9 Attach fall to band 0.49
10 Turn and press 0.30
11 Top stitch band 0.26
12 Trim band 0.15
13 Mark collar notches 0.18
14 Button holing at band 0.12
15 Button sewing at band 0.15
16 Hem cuff with interlining 0.32
17 Run stitch cuff 0.28
18 Turn and press 0.25
19 Top stitch cuff 0.55
20 Buttonholing at cuff 0.25
21 Button sewing at cuff 0.28
22 Set sleeve placket 0.46
23 Finish sleeve placket 0.72
24 Sew label to yoke 0.57
25 Back yoke setting 0.44
26 Sew left front placket with interlining 0.33
27 Buttonholing on left front 0.65
28 Sew pocket on left front 0.77
 29 Hem right front edge 0.30
30 Button sewing on right front 0.55
31 Join shoulder 0.56
32 Sleeve setting 0.75
33 Side seam and Underarm closing 0.92
34 Cuff setting 0.71
35 Hem bottom 0.78
36 Close collar 0.70

Total time per garment = 15.22 Minutes

Juki sewing: Machines lock stitch made in Japan.

(B) DAILY PRODUCTION TARGET

Our daily production target will be 500 garments per day

(C) THE NUMBER OF SEWING MACHINISTS ARE REQUIRED

We require 17 sewing machinists for achieving the above production target per day. The number
of sewing machinists can be calculated by the following formula:

Working Time / day x Number of sewing Machinists

................................................................................. = Daily production Quantity
Total time per garment

Let,
Y be the number of sewing machinists

480 x Y
............. = 500 Garments
15.22

=> 480Y = 500 x 15.22

=> 480Y = 7610

=> Y = 15.85

=> Y = 16 Sewing Machinists

According to this calculation method, we should require 16 sewing machinists for producing 500
garments at 480 minutes per day.

However, sewing machinists cannot work 480 minutes per day without any break since they are
the human being. For instance, they need to go to lavatory, to take a drink or have a chat with
other colleagues. If they work 480 minutes without break, they will feel fatigued which will
affect their working efficiency. The productivity will be lowered. Furthermore, when they are
absent due to sickness, there is no more sewing machinist to work for their vacancy.

In addition, in case of complicated styles, we may spend much time to finish one garment. The
standard time of one garment will be longer, so one or two more sewing machinists are required
that can stabilize our daily production target. As a result, we need to require I more sewing
machinist to make 500 garments per day.
D. MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT

Sufficient machineries and equipment are required for producing Men’s woven shirts.
Machinery Type Quantity
Single Needle lockstitch machine with Thread Trimmer 14 sets
Collar Turning and pressing Machine 1 set
Button holing Machine 1 set
Button Sewing Machine 1 set
Cuff Turning and pressing Machine 1 set
Chain stitch Machine 1 set
5-thread over locking machine with Safety Stitch and Thread
Trimmer 2 sets
Pocket Creaser 1 set
Total 22 sets

Attachments
1. Hemmer
2. Template
3. Swing gauge of ¼ inch and 1/16 inch
4. Folder
5. Sleeve placket Binder
6. Roller Feed
Sewing operators’ constant training on the job and off the job, class room lectures with video
sessions related with sewing operational improvement place an important feature to increase the
sewing operators’ skill level ability sewing operators’ skill grid.

No. Description Level

1 Full finished Garment / Sample maker’s position A+
2 Collar making, cuff making with simple operational knowledge gained A
Without ------------ collar making, -- making but --- simple / Operational
3 knowledge with 502. TFOA m/c operation B+
Front zipper attaching, pocket making, pleat making, 50 LT machine
4 operation known B
Front placket making Button / Button hole side Arm hole top edge stitch
5 making B
6 Side body closing with 50 LT M/c. Simple sewing operational known C
7 Machine control ability with simple sewing operation i.e. Buck with yoke T
 attaching (using of necessary Folders) placket top edge stitch with ¼th
guide / presser foot

Conclusion:
Achieving productivity plays an important role in apparel industry in present days. Expectation
of more orders can be made in a given time with higher quality and productivity is essential.so as
to increase the productivity to reach the buyer will make the healthy situation and also build up
good relationship with our buyers and more and more continuous orders can be expected from
the buyers.