Hungary 5 Great Plain

© Lonely Planet Publications
224 www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N 225
To Cluj-Napoca (79km);
Alba Iulia (178km);
Bucharest (504km)
40 km
To Alba Iulia (112km);

Bucharest (410km)
20 miles
Great Plain
Carei
ROMANIA
E60
E79
S±cueni
The nationalist poet Sándor Petőfi, in describing the Great Plain as ‘My world and home…The
Oradea
Alföld, the open sea’, accurately summed up the nostalgic fervour Hungarians have for their
To Alba Iulia (178km);

0
0
Bucharest (476km)
48
beloved ‘Midwest’. Like Australians and their Outback, many Magyars view it romantically: shep-
herds fight the elements in winter and try not to go stir-crazy in summer when the notorious
Hajdúhadház
Bor²
E671
National Park
Körös-Maros
mirages rise off the baking soil, leading them, their mop-like puli dogs and flocks astray.
Salonta
DEBRECEN
471
Berettyóújfalu
Chi²ineu-Cri²
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
The Great Plain, covering some 45,000 sq km east and southeast of Budapest, makes up half
HAJDÚ-
Hajdúszoboszló
Kötegyán
BIHAR
47
the nation’s territory but only about a third of the population lives there. At times numbingly
To Timi²oara
M35
Sarkad
(45km)
E671
flat and monotonous, at others captivating and enthralling, there’s no arguing that it has a
Hajdúböszörmény
42
33
Gyula
Arad
spell-binding quality that only comes from big skies and endless, uninterrupted prairies.
Vésztª
E60
E573
47
Balmazújváros
4
But the Plain is not a one-dimensional attraction; it is also home to cities of graceful archi-
Békés
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ 44
tecture and easy-going recreational areas. Szeged, the unofficial capital of the Plain, is a centre
Hortobágy
Battonya
Szeghalom
Nádudvar
Püspökladány
National Park
for art and contains Art-Nouveau gems, while its neighbour Kecskemét is a small city packing a
Hortobágy
Békéscsaba
Körös-Maros
Orosháza National Park
47
Mezªberény
National Park
r
Berekfürdª
Körös-Maros
big punch with fin de siècle elegance. Debrecen, Hungary’s second-largest city, commands the
Rive
Mezªhegyes
BÉKÉS
Kisújszállás
46
Tiszafüred
east with a vibrant mix of bars, clubs and engaging museums, while the spas of the Hajdúság
Karcag
E68
47
34
Gyomaendrªd
region and the resort towns on Lake Tisza ensure your stay can be as lazy as you like. r
ve
44
Mezötúr
Ri
Körös
Túrkeve
Nagylak
Tisza
Lake
Szarvas
While Hungarians generally divide the Great Plain into ‘between the Danube and the Tisza
Törökszentmiklós
34
Hódmezövásárhely
Kunhegyes
E60
Rivers’ and the land ‘beyond the Tisza’, this does not really reflect the lie of the land, the
National Park
Körös-Maros
Makó
JÁSZ-NAGYKUN-
National Park
33
Kunszentmárton
Körös-Maros
46
SZOLNOK
routes that travellers usually take or, frankly, what’s of interest. Instead, it can be divided
4
HEVES
CSONGRÁD
Tiszaföldvár
into the Central Plain, the Eastern Plain and the Southern Plain.
s
Martf¬
o
31
E68
SZEGED Mar
Szentes
za
45
Tis
45
Jászapáti
Heves
47
43
MONTENEGRO
E71
Szolnok
SERBIA &
r
Rive
M3
HIGHLIGHTS
Csongrád
Ópusztaszer
Kistelek
32
Tiszakécske
Jászberény
451
a
Tis z
5
Applauding the astounding ‘five-in-hand’
Abony
44
Kiskunfélegyháza
horsemanship at Bugac’s horse show
Nagykªrös
M5
55
E75
KECSKEMÉT
Nagykáta
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
311
(p247)
31
Debrecen
E75
Hortobágy
Enjoying the best Szeged has to offer: Hatvan
Cegléd
5
441
M5
Bugac
E60
Albertirsa
Ferenc Móra Museum (p263), Art
E75
National Jakabszállás
Kiskunmajsa
4
Nouveau New Synagogue (p263) and
Subotica
Soltvadkert
Monor
szegedi halászlé (spicy fish soup)
PEST
54
Lajosmizse
53
31
Gyömrª
Gödöllª
Jánoshalma
BÁCS-KISKUN
Kiskunság
Kecskemét
Kicking back with nature in Hortobágy
5
Pécel
Kiskunhalas
Park
E71
Kistarcsa
M5
55
E75
(p238), the epitome of the puszta
Vecsés
Bugac
Fót M3
Dunakeszi
Kecel
GREAT PLAIN
Bácsalmás
Nemesnádudvar
52
Dunaharaszti
(‘deserted’ or ‘uninhabited’ lands) Szigetszentmiklós
Dabas
BUDAPEST
Kiskunság
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
National
Kiskªrös
Göd
Park
Wondering how such fine Art-Nouveau
M2
54
M0 Gyál
53
and Secessionist architecture ever arrived Szeged
Kalocsa
Hajós
Solt
in Kecskemét (p243)
M0
51
10
Danube- Baja
Százhalombatta
Pomáz
Budaörs
Szigethalom
Dunaújváros
Taking in the museums and nightlife of
Kesely¬s
Pilisvörösvár
be River
Dunaföldvár
National 51
Danu
Budakeszi
Gemenc
6
Ráckeve
Debrecen (p233), the capital of the east
Forest
E60
Dráva
M6
Park
E71
Paks
M9
E73
E73
61
M1
62
M7
55
226 G R E AT P L A I N • • C e n t r a l P l a i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N • • C e n t r a l P l a i n 227
History main street, Kossuth Lajos út, runs roughly SZOLNOK 0

0
400 m
0.2 miles
Five hundred years ago the region was not a east–west a few blocks north of the Tisza.
steppe but forest land at the constant mercy Across the Tisza Bridge (Tisza híd), rebuilt A B C D
u
ai
on Szán
u
of the flooding Tisza and Danube Rivers. in 1963, is the city’s recreational area Tisza ok tó kö rút
Hold u ula kö
ai
Cs rút
én Gy
ss
Ka
besty
The Turks felled most of the trees, destroy- Park (Tisza-liget), which has the majority of Le
ve Ba
jno
Várkonyi
István
Dr Se
nt
ing the protective cover and releasing the the city’s accommodation, as well as swim- 1 e
u ku tér
t
yi ú
topsoil to the winds; villagers fled north or ming pools. A backwater of the Tisza, Alcsi-
Zagy
Sz
Ady
son
Endre
ol
to the market towns and khas (towns under Holt-Tisza, lies southeast of the park.
no
u t
kr
va
Poz
kI
Dr Elek
Bar
ári
spá
oss
iu
the sultan’s jurisdiction). The region had be- The city’s busy train station (Jubileumi To Train
gv
Gáb
nk
31
me
Ri
Station (2km) or ú
Sá
t
ver
come the puszta, home to shepherds, fisher tér) is a couple of kilometres west of the city
rt
István
Fiu
21
4
folk, runaway serfs and outlaws. The regula- centre at the end of Baross Gábor út (the 24
Ady
u
u
József Attila út Endre
olna
u
tion of the rivers in the 19th century dried continuation of Kossuth Lajos út). The bus 29
Káp
Hild János
up the marshes and allowed for methodical station (Ady Endre utca) is a few minutes’ INFORMATION
rt
Bar tér
ári k
Ibusz..................................1 C2 oss
irrigation, paving the way for intensive agri- walk north of Kossuth Lajos út. Gáb
Ságv
Main Post Office................2 B2 or ú
yu
Tabán
iu
t 10
culture, particularly on the Southern Plain. 2
yörg
ru
OTP Bank..........................3 C2
Jóka
District
Pólya Tibor u
5
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
Kossuth
o
25
Madách u
Tourinform........................4 C2
Information 2
nd
za G
tér
Sá
ut ca
Verseghy Ferenc Library....5 C2 Kos
fi
suth
Dós
3
Ibusz (%423 602; Szapáry út 24; h8am-5pm Mon-
tª
CENTRAL PLAIN
yar u
Lajo
Pe
1
Sútª
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 14 City s út
Fri) Travel agent.
u
Hall
Mag
Konstant
ihály
Artists' Colony.................(see 6)
Gyula u
áry ú
eti u
23 22
Main post office (%341 301; Baross Gábor út 14; Castle Ruins.......................6 D2 6
ics M
Szabadság
Sziglig
Szap
Damjanich Pools Complex..7 D3 20 tér Gutenberg
The Central Plain, the smallest of the Great h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
Táncs
in u
Franciscan Church and 9 Óvoda u
Kellner
tér
u
7
ria
Monastery.....................8 B3 18
Plain’s divisions, stretches eastward from Bu- OTP bank (%420 033; Szapáry út 31) Has a 24-hour
Má
28
Hungarian Art Nouveau om u 11 30
ὈὈὈ
Templ Sóház u
dapest to the Tisza River and encompasses the ATM. Building.........................9 C3 27
Tisza 15
Verseghy Park
János Damjanich 19
likes of Szolnok and Jászberény, towns of lit- Tourinform (%424 704; szolnok-m@tourinform.hu; Museum......................10 C2
8 Park
Tisza
tja ti sétány
tle importance to most travellers even though Ságvári körút 4; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat mid- 3 Szolnok Gallery................11 C3 ok
ú
Tiszapar Bridge
rtír
Thermal Baths...............(see 15) Má
they have a handful of architectural delights Jun–mid-Sep, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun) Small Tisza Park Thermal Pools..12 C4 Tisza
River
and historical gems. The biggest attraction in office just south of the bus station. 26
SLEEPING
the region is Lake Tisza, Hungary’s second Verseghy Ferenc library (%510 110; Kossuth Garden Hotel...................13 C4 17
largest and a water-lover’s paradise. tér 2; per hr 100Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Hozam.............................14 B2
ὈὈὈ
Tisza................................15 C3
Internet access. Tiszaligeti Camping..........16 B4 Tiszalig
eti sétá
ny
13 DRINKING
SZOLNOK Trojka..............................17 C3 16
12
Club Bonita..............................(see 26)
Ibiza Music Klub........................26 D3
%56 / pop 77,600 Sights EATING Jazzclub.....................................27 C3
Stock 19.27 Pub........................28 C3
Szolnok is not a pretty city; much of its sky- The János Damjanich Museum (%421 602; Kos- Caffé Alexander...............18
Galéria.............................19
C3
C3
line consists of ugly concrete blocks built suth tér 4; one exhibition 200Ft, all exhibitions 700Ft, guided 4 Kassai..............................20 D3 ENTERTAINMENT
Market.............................21 C1 City Cultural Centre...................29 C2
for practical, rather than aesthetic, purposes. tours 1500Ft, Tue admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), a
Kertész u
Pronto.............................22 D2 Szigliget Theatre........................30 C3
Tiszaliget
The centre does, however, have a few old well-laid out museum devoted to Szolnok’s Röza................................23 B2
Spar.................................24 C2 TRANSPORT
monuments, and the city’s thermal spas history, is easily the town’s highlight. It’s Tünde..............................25 C2 Bus Station.................................31 C1
across the Tisza lend it a calm, almost laid- divided into three sections: archaeologic-
back feel. al finds from the Bronze Age and Roman
times; an extensive ethnographical collec- Tabán district, with the last remaining peasant at a fine example of a Hungarian Art Nouveau
History tion; and exhibits relating to Szolnok’s his- houses in Szolnok. building (Szapáry út 19); today it houses a few
A ‘deed of gift’ issued by King Géza I makes tory, especially the artists’ colony. The latter The Szolnok Gallery (%378 023; Templom utca 2; small businesses.
mention of Szolnok, then called Zounok, often showcases contemporary local artists. adult/child 100/50Ft; h 9am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct,
as early as 1075, and it has remained the Like so many fortresses on the Great 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr) shows works by con- Activities
most important settlement in the Central Plain, Szolnok Castle was blown to bits by temporary artists from the region. The pri- Szolnok is a spa town and has several places
Plain ever since. the Habsburgs in 1710, and the rubble was mary reason for visiting the gallery is to see where you can ‘take the waters’. The Tisza
Szolnok has had its share of troubles: it later used to rebuild the city centre. What the building itself – a Romantic-style syna- Park thermal pools (Tiszaligeti sétány; adult/child
was laid to waste more than a dozen times little is left of the castle ruins – just a bit of gogue that was designed by Lipót Baumhorn 750/550Ft; h9am-8pm mid-May–Aug), across the
over the centuries. The last disaster came in wall – can be seen near Gutenberg tér, across in 1898. (Baumhorn also did the glorious river, is the town’s largest swimming com-
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
1944, when Allied bombing all but flattened the Zagyva River. Gutenberg tér is also the temples in Szeged and Gyöngyös.) West of plex and comes complete with slides.
the city and the retreating German troops site of Hungary’s most famous artists’ colony the gallery are the baroque Franciscan church Closer to town, just before the Tisza
blew up the bridge over the Tisza. (művésztelep; %425 549; Gutenberg tér 4), founded and monastery (Ferences templom és kolostor; Templom Bridge, is the Damjanich indoor and outdoor
in 1902 and once counting among its mem- utca 8) completed in 1757 – the city’s oldest thermal pool (Damjanich utca 3; adult/child 550/400Ft;
Orientation bers the realist painters Adolf Fényes, István buildings. h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; 6am-
Szolnok is situated on the confluence of Nagy and László Mednyánszky. Fronting Architecture buffs should walk up Sza- 6.30pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm Sun Oct-Apr) and a large
the Tisza and the narrow Zagyva Rivers. Its the Zagyva northeast of Szabadság tér is the páry út from the Szolnok Gallery for a look sunbathing area. The more serious thermal
baths (adult/child 800/500Ft; h7.30am-6pm daily May- an international menu (including curry!), Szigliget was the first theatre in Eastern OTP bank (Lehel vezér tér 28) With ATM.
Sep, 7.30am-4pm Mon-Wed, 7.30am-8pm Thu, 7.30am- Galéria rates as one of the best restaurants Europe to stage Dr Zhivago (1988) – pretty Post office (Lehel vezér tér 8)
10pm Fri & Sat, 7.30am-1pm Sun Oct-Apr), those at the in Szolnok. Its outdoor seating in summer daring stuff at the time. Tourinform (%406 439; jaszbereny@tourinform.hu;
Tisza hotel, are mock Turkish with a bit of has views of the synagogue. Lehel vezér tér 33; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat
Art Deco thrown in and are a great place to Pronto (Kossuth Lajos út 6; pizzas & salads under 600Ft; Getting There & Away mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-
laze away an afternoon. hMon-Sat) This clean and simple establish- Buses go to towns around Hungary, includ- Jun) In the Déryné Cultural Centre.
ment churns out pizzas and salads by the ing Jászberény (725Ft, 1¼ hours, 55km, eight
Sleeping truckload for hungry locals on the run. daily), Kecskemét (846Ft, 1¾ hours, 65km, Sights & Activities
Check with Ibusz regarding private rooms Róza (%426 630; Konstantin utca 36; mains 1000Ft; seven daily), Budapest (1150Ft, 1¾ hours, The Jász Museum (% 412 753; Táncsics Mihály
(2500Ft to 4000Ft per person) in the city. h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) Róza is a 95km, two daily), Szeged (1690Ft, three utca 5; adult/child 200/100Ft; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-
Tisza (%510 850; www.hoteltisza.hu; Verseghy park 2; short walk from Kossuth tér, which is perfect hours, 135km, seven daily) and Tiszafüred Oct), housed in what was once the Jazygian
s/d from 11,300/15,700Ft; ps) Tisza is Szol- for building up an appetite for the better- (907Ft, two hours, 70km, three daily). military headquarters, runs the gamut of
nok’s old-world hotel built in 1928 over than-average Hungarian food served here. Its Szolnok has excellent train services: you can Jász culture and life – from costumes and
a thermal spring. Rooms come in two courtyard is peaceful, as long as the nearby travel to/from Budapest (1004Ft, 1¾ hours, woodcarving to language. But all aisles lead
categories – Superior and Standard (which petrol station isn’t doing a roaring trade. 100km), Debrecen (1420Ft, 1¾ hours, 120km), to the Lehel Horn, an 8th-century Byzantine
basically means the more money you spend, Tünde (Szapáry út 28; ice cream from 100Ft) Taking Nyíregyháza (1828Ft, two hours, 170km), work. Legend has it that a Magyar leader
the more antique the furniture). Add-ons up the ground floor of a decorative Art- Békéscsaba (1004Ft, 1½ hours, 95km) and called Lehel (or Lél) was taken captive in
include entrance to the attached spa, and a Nouveau building, this is as good a place dozens of points in between without chang- the Battle of Augsburg (AD 955) against the
decent pub and restaurant. as any for ice cream and cake. ing. For Miskolc (2030Ft, 3¾ hours, 185km), united German armies and, just before he
Hozam (% 510 530; www.hozamhotel.hu; Mária Caffé Alexander (Táncsics Mihály utca 15) Alexan- change at Hatvan; Cegléd is where you trans- was executed, killed the king by hitting him
utca 25; s/d 16,000/22,000Ft; ps ) Szolnok’s der is directly opposite the Szigliget Theatre fer for Kecskemét (544Ft, one hour, 60km) on the head with the ivory horn. The alleged
most exclusive hotel and one of its small- and makes a perfect pit stop before and/or and Szeged (1624Ft, 2¾ hours, 145km). murder weapon, richly carved with birds,
est. Convenient to the centre, it is on a quiet after a show. battle scenes and anatomically correct satyrs,
residential street and comes complete with a There’s a food hall and Spar supermarket Getting Around doesn’t seem to have suffered any serious
sauna, Jacuzzi, solarium and fitness room. in the Szolnok Plaza, and the city’s large From the train station, buses 7 or 8 will take damage from the blow to the royal noggin.
Garden Hotel (% 520 530; www.gardenhotel covered market is near the bus station. you to Kossuth tér. If heading for the ac- The museum also spotlights local sons
.hu in Hungarian; Tiszaligeti sétány; s/d 16,500/21,500Ft; commodation in Tisza Park, take bus 15. and daughters who made good, includ-
pa) Garden caters mainly to business Drinking You can also take a taxi (%444 444). ing the watercolourist András Sáros and
clients and therefore has all the amenities Szapáry út has a couple of popular pubs the 19th-century actress Róza Széppataki
you would normally expect to find: modern, and clubs worth checking out, including JÁSZBERÉNY Déryné. You’ve seen Mrs Déry before,
functional rooms, a sauna and tennis courts the strangely named Stock 19.27 Pub (Szapáry %57 / pop 28,200 though you may not know it. She is forever
for guest use and a quality restaurant. út 7) and the dark cellar bar Jazzclub (cnr Szapáry Today Jászberény is a sleepy town of tree- immortalised in that irritating Herend por-
Trojka (% 514 600; www.trojka.hu; Tiszaligeti út & Sóház utca). lined streets and quiet squares, but as early celain figurine seen in antique shops every-
sétány 5; s/d 4000/8000Ft) This small pension, op- Szolnok’s big clubs, Ibiza Music Klub as the 13th century it was the main polit- where of a woman in a wide organza skirt
posite the thermal pools on Tiszaliget, has and Club Bonita, are south of the river. ical, administrative and economic centre of playing her lant (lute) and kissing the air.
cosy rooms, with wood floors and the all- They share the same building at Tiszaligeti the Jazygians, an obscure pastoral people of Have a look at the fading ceiling fres-
important bug mesh on windows. sétány 1, and alternate evenings – Ibiza Persian origin brought in by King Béla IV coes inside the Roman Catholic parish church
Tiszaligeti Camping (% 424 403; Tiszaligeti takes Friday night, while Bonita Saturday. (r 1235–70) to strengthen his position. Its (plébániatemplom; Szentháromság tér 4; admission free)
sétány 34; camp sites per adult/child/tent 800/600/500Ft, 2- Entry is around 500Ft. biggest (if only) drawcard has always been north of Tourinform; the nave was designed
person bungalows 6700Ft; motel dm/s/d 2100/5600/6500Ft; the Lehel Horn, an ancient, almost magic- in 1774 by András Mayerhoffer and József
camping hMay-Sep; p) This large camping Entertainment al ivory piece, for centuries the Jazygians Jung, two masters of baroque architecture.
site occupies a quiet corner of the Tiszal- For up-to-date entertainment information, chief’s symbol of power. For swimming all year round, there’s a
iget. Its motel complex looks more like an check the listings in the freebie biweekly thermal spa & pools (%412 108; Hatvani út 5; spa
army barracks than anything else, but its Szolnoki Est. Orientation adult/child 500/350Ft; h9am-8pm Tue & Thu, 9am-6pm
small bungalows are cosy in a rustic way. City Cultural Centre (%514 575; Hild János tér 1) The main street is a long ‘square’ (Lehel Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-5pm Sun, pools adult/child 500/350Ft;
This centre near Tourinform can tell you vezér tér), which runs almost parallel to the h9am-6pm May-Aug) west of the Zagyva.
Eating when there are concerts on at the Fran- narrow ‘city branch’ of the Zagyva River.
Kassai (%426 603; Damjanich utca 5; mains 1000Ft) Kas- ciscan church and whether Szolnok’s cel- The bus station (Petőfi tér) is two blocks to Sleeping & Eating
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
sai is very much a no-frills restaurant that ebrated symphony orchestra or Béla Bartók the west across the Zagyva River, while the Ibusz can arrange private rooms (2500Ft per
has top-rate food, service and atmosphere. Chamber Choir are performing. train station is 1.5km southwest at the end person).
The menu is packed with Hungarian favour- Szigliget Theatre (Szigligeti színház; %342 633; of Rákóczi út. Kakukkfészek (Cuckoo’s Nest; %412 345; Tánc-
ites and, with the Tisza so close, plenty of Tisza park 1) Across from the Tisza hotel, it is sics Mihály utca 8; s/d 2000/4000Ft) The owners of
fish dishes. one of the most attractive theatres in pro- Information Kakukkfészek may be a little cuckoo them-
Galéria (%378 358; Szapáry út 1; mains 1600-2500Ft) vincial Hungary. At the forefront of drama Ibusz (%412 143; Szövetkezet utca 7/a) To the south- selves, but they’re supremely friendly and
With a cool interior, prompt service and in Hungary in the 1970s and ’80s, the west of Tourinform. have created a homely atmosphere. Rooms
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
JÁSZBERÉNY 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles Orientation day. There’s an extra charge of around
3 m u To Sólyom Tiszafüred lies at the northeast end of Lake 2000Ft for fuel with motorboat rentals. If
A Hatvani út B C plo D Pension (800m)
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
Na
gyt
em Tisza. From the bus and train stations, op- you prefer to let someone else do the driv-
Ferencesek
INFORMATION Be u
tere
Pethes 1
Ibusz....................................
Imre u
C2 Nád
or u 6 rcs
én
yi En
dre posite one another on Vasút utca, walk 10 or ing, contact Kormorán boat harbour (%350 350;
zu út Ady
OTP Bank............................2 D2
eh
á 15 minutes west and then southwest to the Tiszaörvény), Szabics boat harbour (%06 30 954 8620;
Ré
Post Office...........................3 C1 Szentháromság y
eg beach and camp sites. To reach the centre of Tiszaörvény) or Városi Kikötő (%06 20 916 2589; www
zu
1
Ha
Tourinform..........................4 D1 tér M u
ly
tva
ihá town, follow Baross Gábor utca and then Fő .varosikikoto.hu; Gát sétány 1), all of whom offer
u
8
ni
Le
sM
Víz
he
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 7 c
út
csi
Serh
út south for about a kilometre. fishing and sightseeing packages starting
lv
n 5
Jász Museum.......................5 D1 ny Tá
ez
áz u
sétá 10
ér
Parish Church.......................6 C1 zsef around 7500Ft.
Fü
té
r Jó 4 Town Hall
rdö
ne
r
Thermal Spa & Pools............7 B1 Risz
ndr
ás u Information If the lake is too cold for you, Tiszafüred’s
u
út Petªfi 9 11 óA
SLEEPING óczi tér Holl E-Punkt (Örvényi út 5; per hr 125Ft; h8am-4pm Mon- thermal spa (%352 366; Poroszlói út; adult/child
Rák 12
Kakukkfészek.......................8 D1 lö u u Dósza
Thu, 8am-noon Fri) Internet access. 450/350Ft; hpools 7.30am-7pm May-Sep, sauna 8am-7pm
Pa
Hold
Szö
lot
Ne t György út
iú OTP bank (Piac út 3) Behind Fő út.
ási
EATING fe éu mid-Mar–mid-Nov) has four open-air pools, as
u
cz Já
ryn
ív
ó no
lejc
Apostol Cafe.......................9 C2 ák De
Sz
s
Post office (Fő út 14) On the main artery running well as a sauna and a wide range of medical
s
Arizona Steakhouse...........10 C1 R u 2
u
Zag
Viktorio Pizzeria.................11 C2 Szabadság
through the centre. services.
Gé
tu tér
yva
m
út
Thö ze
ENTERTAINMENT ke Tourinform (%511 123; tiszafured@tourinform.hu; Those looking for exercise away from
u
et
Kossuth Lajos
köly
öv
Riv
Déryné Cultural Centre......(see 4) To Train Sz Fürdő út 21; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun water can try their hand at horse riding
er
Station
útja
TRANSPORT (1.5km)
1
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun) A at Gulyás farm (%351 814; per hr 2500-3500Ft) in
Bus Station.........................12 C2
helpful office between the lake and the town’s thermal spa. Tiszaörvény near the Hableány hotel, or
rent a bicycle (200/1000Ft per hour/day)
are filled with mismatching furniture and Getting There & Away Sights from Angler Camping (%351 220; Holt-Tisza part),
bedding and there are no en suite options. Frequent bus departures include those to Tiszafüred is essentially a resort town, but Fortuna Camping (%511 304; Holt-Tisza part) or Ha-
Sólyom Pension (% 401 267; www.hotels.hu Budapest (1030Ft, 1¾ hours, 80km, nine there are a couple of sights worth stopping bleány (%353 333; Hunyadi utca 2).
/solyom; Sólyom út 8; r from 6000Ft; lunch menu 600Ft, daily), Szolnok (725Ft, 1¼ hours, 55km, six for, including the Pál Kiss Museum (%352
mains 1200Ft; p) The facilities at this pension daily) and Kecskemét (1090Ft, two hours, 106; Tariczky sétány 6; adult/child 200/100Ft; h9am- Sleeping
may be more modern and comfortable than 85km, seven daily). There are also daily noon, 1-5pm Tue-Sun). Housed in a beautiful old Tourinform can supply you with a long list
at Kakukkfészek but its often unfriendly buses to Szeged (2540Ft, 4¼ hours, 200km, manor (1840) south of the city’s thermal of private accommodation (rooms from
service and location, 800m northeast of three daily) and Tiszafüred (1330Ft, 2½ baths, its collection is given over to the 2500Ft) in and around Tiszafüred.
the centre, are less appealing. Its restaurant hours, 105km, one daily). everyday lives of Tisza fisher folk and the Füzes (%351 854; Húszöles út 31b; s/d 3500/6600Ft;
packs in the locals at midday with its hearty Jászberény lies approximately halfway work of local potters. pa) Füzes is a friendly 10-room pension
Hungarian cuisine. between Hatvan and Szolnok on the train The area east of Szőlősi út is a verit- with cosy and functional rooms, many of
Arizona Steakhouse (cnr Rákóczi út & Serház utca; line. These two cities are on Hungary’s two able patchwork of traditional houses, with which overlook the Molnár restaurant next
mains 1500-2500Ft) A rare breed in these parts, main trunk lines, and virtually all main cit- thatched roofs and orderly little flower and door. It’s also fairly quiet, considering its
with an international menu and American- ies in the east are accessible from one or the vegetable gardens – a nice respite from the proximity to busy Húszöles út.
style steaks, Arizona Steakhouse is decked other. Both Hatvan and Szolnok have direct hubbub of the beach. One of them, the Gáspár Aurum (%351 338; Ady Endre utca 29; r 7600Ft;
out in wild-west gear and has picnic tables links to Budapest. Nyúzó House (Nyúzó Gáspár Fazekas Tájház; Malom p) Aurum is for those looking for a more
in the middle of the square. utca 12; adult/child 150/100Ft; h9am-noon, 2-5pm Tue- homely feel than Füzes offers; room décor
Viktorio Pizzeria (%411 053; Holló András utca; Getting Around Sun May-Oct), is a former potter’s residence dates from when Kádár still held the coun-
pizzas 400-1000Ft, mains 500-1000Ft) On a peace- Bus 4 connects the train station with the and contains antique potting wheels, drying try’s reins (but bathrooms are modern) and
ful street just around the corner from the bus terminus, from where you can walk to racks, furniture and plates in pale primary the owners are welcoming.
cultural centre, this simple pizzeria has an the centre of town. colours and patterns of stars, and birds and Thermál Camping (%352 911; Húszöles út 2; camp
incredible selection (40 varieties) of pizza. flowers unique to the region. Just southeast sites per person/tent 820/670Ft, bungalows 8900-9700Ft;
Apostol Cafe (Hold utca 4; ice cream 100Ft; h9am- TISZAFÜRED of the village house is the working pottery hApr–mid-Nov; p) Of the 11 camp sites in
9pm) Apostol is for those who worship that %59 / pop 13,700 workshop of Imre Szücs (%351 483; Belsőkertsor Tiszafüred’s immediate vicinity, Thermál is
lovely substance – ice cream. Its large ter- Tiszafüred was a rather sleepy town on the út 4/a). His pottery, with its highly deco- the best organised and laid out. Its tree-lined
race is perfect for watching the comings Tisza River until the early 1980s when the rative and colourful markings, is in stark avenues are generally crammed with holiday
and goings in the town’s bus station. river was dammed and a reservoir opened contrast to the dark and sombre creations makers over the summer, however, it’s a bit
up more than 125 sq km of lakes to holiday- from Mohács or Nádudvar. of a walk to the lake’s public beaches.
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Entertainment makers. While hardly the ‘Lake Balaton of Angler Camping (%351 220; horg.camp@dpg.hu;
Déryné Cultural Centre (% 406 439; Lehel vezér the Great Plain’ as the tourist brochures Activities Holt-Tisza part; camp sites per adult/child/tent/car
tér 33) This central cultural centre is your say, Lake Tisza (Tisza-tó) and its primary Activities on the lake include fishing, boat- 650/400/500/250Ft, d/tr/q 4900/5900/6900Ft, bungalows
first and best source of information for resort Tiszafüred offer swimmers and ing, swimming and baking in the sun. Fortuna 6000-9900Ft; hApr-Oct; p) This lakeside place
what’s on; otherwise, consult the free bi- boating enthusiasts a break before con- Camping (%511 304; Holt-Tisza part) and Hableány has plenty of amenities, such as snack stalls, a
weekly Szolnoki Est for slim listings on tinuing on to the country’s attractions to (%353 333; Hunyadi utca 2) rent canoes/paddle restaurant, recreational facilities (including
Jászberény. the east. boats/motorboats for 1000/1000/4000Ft a tennis) and holiday homes accommodating
ὈὈ
232 G R E AT P L A I N • • C e n t r a l P l a i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N • • E a s t e r n P l a i n 233
TISZAFÜRED 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
selection, as well as a handful of game and around its heart, creating a lively scene for
Bacsó Béla u
vegetarian dishes. Its breezy terrace (pro- night crawlers, while an array of museums
A B C D
ὈὈὈ
tected from mosquitos by netting) is a wel- keep most visitors busy for a day or two.
Train Station come respite on sticky summer days. It also makes a good base for forays into the
u
kk
Vasút u
Flamingo (Fő út; ice cream 90Ft; h8am-8pm) This puszta and the northeast.
ku
Ka
Porosz
lói út 17
1
Lake Tisza
combination of cukrászda (cake shop) and
bronzárium (tanning studio) does some History
Dózsa Györg
To Beach &
7 excellent baking and scoops up some fine The area around Debrecen has been settled
Baross Gábor u
t
ice cream. since the earliest times. When the Magyars
öú
Food Stalls
ὈὈὈὈ
8
rd
Fü
The town’s market (Piac tér) is postage- arrived late in the 9th century, they found
u y
4
stamp sized but has fresh fruits and vege- a colony of Slovaks here who called the re-
tables; otherwise, for a quick bite, try the gion Dobre Zliem for its ‘good soil’. De-
Húszöles út
12
9 food stalls serving gyros, pizza and lángos brecen’s wealth, based on salt, the fur trade
To Fortuna
Camping (300m) (deep-fried dough with toppings) at the and cattle-raising, grew steadily through
Kiss Pál út
2 Kast
6
public beach and the camp sites. the Middle Ages and increased during the
ély ú 10 Tari
t 11 czky
dre u Turkish occupation; the city kept all sides
Mák u
Ady E En sétá
ndre Ady ny
Tiszafür
u
Getting There & Away happy by paying tribute to the Ottomans,
Petªfi
ánd or u Sándo
ru
Other destinations served daily by bus in- the Habsburgs and Transylvanian princes
ed Canal
Pe tªfi S
clude Budapest (2300Ft, four hours, 185km, at the same time.
Gábor Áron
Fª út
Belsöfo
four daily), Szolnok (907Ft, two hours, By the mid-16th century much of the
Muhi u
70km, three to five daily), Eger (725Ft, 1¼ population had converted to Protestant-
kpart út
út
tu
Ré hours, 55km, 10 daily), Jászberény (1330Ft, ism and churches were being erected with
2½ hours, 105km, two daily) and Debrecen gusto, earning the city the nickname ‘Cal-
3
὆὆὆὆
὆὆὆὆
Örvényi út (846Ft, 1¼ hours, 70km, six daily). vinist Rome’. Debrecen played a pivotal
Külsªkertsór u
Tiszafüred is on the train line linking role in the 1848–49 War of Independence,
Fª ú
To Hableány (4km);
὆὆὆὆
15
Pia
Gulyás Farm & Restaurant
Füzesabony – from where you can carry on and it experienced a major building boom
t
1 2
& Kormorán Boat Harbour
cú
(4km); Szabics Boat Harbour Örvényi út 13
to Eger (430Ft, 1¼ hours, 45km) or Miskolc in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
t
Vör
὆὆὆὆
ösm
arty
INFORMATION
E-Punkt........................................1 C3
Aurum.......................................10 A2
Füzes..........................................11 B2
út
Piac
tér
14 (890Ft, two hours, 85km) – and Debrecen
὆὆὆὆
To Kócsújfalu
OTP Bank....................................2 D3 Thermál Camping.......................12 B2 3
16
De
br
(16km);
Debrecen
(774Ft, 1½ hours, 75km), which passes Orientation
Post Office.................................. 3 D4 ec
Tourinform...................................4 B2 EATING
en
iú
(72km) through the Hortobágy region. Debrecen is an easy city to negotiate. A ring
t
road, built on the city’s original earthen
Húsz
Flamingo....................................13 D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Galéria Restaurant &
walls, encloses the Belváros, or Inner Town.
EASTERN PLAIN
öles
út
Gáspár Nyúzó House................... 5 D4 Café.......................................14 D3

i
ös
4
Igari út
This is bisected by Piac utca, which runs

út
Pál Kiss Museum..........................6 B2 Market.......................................15 D3

öl
Sz
Thermal Spa.................................7 B1 Molnár.....................................(see 11)

Városi Kikötª................................8 A1 Nemzeti.....................................16 D4 northward from the train station (Petőfi
When people imagine the puszta, it’s the tér) to Kálvin tér, site of the Great Church
SLEEPING TRANSPORT To Imre Sz¬cs
Angler Camping...........................9 A2 Bus Station.................................17 C1 Pottery Workshop Eastern Plain (Kelet-Alföld) they see. This is and Debrecen’s centre. With the exception
(400m) 5
where the myth of the lonely pásztor (shep- of Nagyerdei Park, the recreational ‘Big
herd) in billowy trousers, the wayside csárdák Forest Park’ some 3km north, almost all
two/three/four people with shared show- menu is loaded with fish dishes and folk art (inns) and Gypsy violinists was born – of Debrecen’s attractions are within easy
ers. Bungalows come with or without bath- is sprinkled around the interior. to be kept alive in literature, fine art and the walking distance of Kálvin tér.
rooms. Hableány (%353 333; Hunyadi utca 2; mains 1000- imagination of the Hungarian people. The bus station (Külső-Vásártér) is on
Fortuna Camping (%511 304; Holt-Tisza part; camp 2000Ft) According to the locals, this is the But it’s not all open plain and big-sky the ‘outer marketplace’ at the western end
sites per adult/child/tent 600/450/650Ft, bungalows from best restaurant for fish in the Tiszafüred country. Debrecen, Hungary’s second- of Széchenyi utca.
5200Ft; hMay-Sep; p) Fortuna occupies its area, but you’ll need to have your own largest city, located on the eastern fringes
own corner of the town and is surrounded wheels: it’s in the Hotel Tiszaörvény, about of the plain, brings balance via a healthy Information
by trees, making it a very secluded camp site. 4km to the southwest. restaurant and bar scene. Csokonai Bookshop (%535 786; Piac utca 45) Has
There are sports fields, a volley ball court Nemzeti (%352 349; Fő út 8; lunch menu 530Ft, mains good foreign language and map sections.
and bike hire, and the lake is within easy 1000Ft) The bright yellow exterior of this res- DEBRECEN Data Net Cafe (%536 724; Kossuth utca 8; per hr 420Ft;
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
walking distance. taurant in the centre of town hides a rather %52 / pop 211,000 h8am-midnight) Also has cheap international calls.
plain interior and the occasional band of Debrecen is a vibrant metropolis rich in Ibusz (%415 555; Révész tér 2) Near the Little Church.
Eating Gypsy musicians; its midday meal is excel- history. Its centre is surprisingly pretty, Kenézy Gyula Hospital (%413 555; Bartók Béla út 2-25)
Galéria Restaurant & Café (%350 512; Fő utca 15; lent value, but Galéria is a better deal in the especially after the unsightly mess sur- Main post office (Hatvan utca 5-9)
mains under 1000Ft) The terracotta patio on the evenings. rounding the bus and train stations, and is Maróthi György College Library (%502 780;
first floor of this inviting restaurant is by far Molnár (% 352 705; Húszöles út 31/b; mains dominated by the country’s largest Protest- Blaháné utca 15; h9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri)
the best place to enjoy a meal in town. The 1000-2000Ft) This restaurant has a good fish ant church. Bars and restaurants are dotted First hour is free.
234 G R E AT P L A I N • • E a s t e r n P l a i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N • • E a s t e r n P l a i n 235
DEBRECEN 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
North of the church stands the Reformed Transylvania who hawk everything from
To Péterfia & Centrum (100m);
College (Református Kollégium; % 414 744; Kálvin socks to live animals. It’s served by buses 9,
A B Aquila Nature Tours (150m); C D tér 16; adult/child 300/150Ft, guided tours 2000Ft; h9am- 15, 30 and 30/a from the train station.
Nagyerdei Park &
Péterfia
INFORMATION
Csokonai Bookshop......................1 C3
Leveles (1.5km); Nagyerdª
& Aquaticum (3km)
5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), built in 1816, the
Data Net Cafe..............................2 C2
23
site of a prestigious secondary school and Activities
Rák
Ibusz............................................3 C3
1 14 theological college since the Middle Ages. The city’s Nagyerdei Park offers boating and
ócz
Main Post Office..........................4 B2 To Fönix
Downstairs, there are exhibits on religious walks along leafy trails, but the main at-
iu
OTP Bank....................................5 C2 To Kenézy Gyula Hall (200m)
u
OTP Bank....................................6 C3 Hospital (300m) ó
Tourinform..................................7 C2 Mester
u Hunyadi János u
Cs
ap art and sacred objects (including a 17th- traction here is the Aquaticum (%514 100; www
Da
Tourinform Booth........................8 C2 century chalice made from a coconut) and .aquaticum.hu; adult/child 1799/1299Ft; h10am-10pm),
rab
Rá
Tourinform Hajdú-Bihar...............9 C2 16
os
Bethlen u
kó
21 on the school’s history, where ‘early to bed, a complex offering all manner of slides and
czi
early to rise’ was the motto. Upstairs is the waterfalls alongside a half-dozen indoor
u
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 11 Kálvin
Déri tér 28
Bicycle Shop...............................10 C2
Bu
29 43
tér
relatively bland 650,000-volume library and and open-air pools of brownish mineral
Vár
rg
Déri Museum.............................11 B2 Múzeum u 12
9
un
the bright, white oratory, where the break- and fresh water, and every type of therapy
dia
Great Church.............................12 C2
10
u
Little Church..............................13 C3 4
away National Assembly met in 1849 and imaginable.
Liszt
Medgyessy Museum..................14 C1 u óu u
8 áné
2 an Csap
Orthodox Synagogue.................15
Reformed College.......................16
B2
C1
Hat
v 19
5 Blah 22 u
Hungary’s postwar provisional government If you want to see more of the great out-
uth
Pászti u
Koss doors, head for the Puszta Forest (Erdőspuszta),
Feren
Sa
Status Que Conservative 32
37 was declared in 1944.
su
31
Nap
Piac
Kandia u
2 41
cu
15
Synagogue.............................17 B2
u Folklore exhibits at the Déri Museum (%322 a protected area of pine and acacia forests,
Klaipéd
u
szky 39
u
Tímárház................................... 18 D3 il in
Zs u
Bajc
sy- 36 7 Koss
uth 26
42
207; Déri tér 1; adult/child 650/325Ft; h10am-6pm Tue- lakes and trails a few kilometres to the east
au
SLEEPING
Aranybika..................................19 C2
17 u
fy 13
35 Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), a short and southeast of Debrecen. Bánk, the cen-
onf To Flea Market (1.5km);
Batt
Fªnix.........................................20 C4 Sim
3 33 40 24
Puszta Forest (10.5km) walk west of the Reformed College, offer tre, has a splendid arboretum (Fancsika utca 93a)
hyán
Kálvin.........................................21 C1
Maróthi György College............ 22 D2
6
38
excellent insights into life on the puszta and and there are boats for rent on Vekeri Lake
yu
1 nna u
Rákóczi Pension..........................23 C1 Szent A the bourgeois citizens of Debrecen up to the (Vekeri-tó).
u 18
yi
Sumen
EATING ch
en
34 19th century. Mihály Munkácsy’s mythical Bikes are for rent from the bicycle shop
3 Szé
Büfé Falatozó...........................(see 28) u 25 interpretations of the Hortobágy and his (%456 220; Csapó utca 19; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
u
os Varga
Carpe Diem................................24 C3 Ján
ki u
44 y Christ’s Passion take pride of place in a sep- 1pm Sat) for 700Ft a day.
Tele
Chinese Takeaway.....................25 C3 an 27
Ar
u
Csokonai....................................26 C2 30 arate art gallery. The museum’s entrance is

Piac u
u
Flaska.........................................27 C3
ós
u ár flanked by four superb bronzes by sculptor Festivals & Events
u
Tím
Fruit & Vegetable Market...........28 C2 k l
i
yi
Gara...........................................29 C2 M
Ferenc Medgyessy, a local boy who merits Annual events to watch out for include the
lén
Grocery Shop.............................30 C3
sse
20
am ara u his own Medgyessy Museum (%413 572; Péterfia Masquerade Carnival in February, the Spring
We
Hajdúsági...................................31 C2
Varga u
Ipark
Klári Salátabár............................32 C2
Lucullus......................................33 C3 ENTERTAINMENT
utca 28; adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun) Festival of performing arts in March, the
Morik Caffé...............................34 C3 Babalu Restaurant and Music
Bar
u
naClub...40 C3 Petöfi in an old burgher house to the northeast. famous Floral Carnival held in mid-August
Pompeji......................................35 C2 Csokonai Theatre............................. 41 C2 tér
Mezon Youth Information Office.....42 C2
Just walking along Piac utca and down and Jazz Days in September.
4 DRINKING some of the side streets, with their array
Bakelit Music Café...................(see 26) SHOPPING
Belgian Beer Café.......................36 C2 Mesterm¬ Kincs és Galéria...............43 C2 of neoclassical, baroque and Art Nouveau Sleeping
Genius.......................................37 C2
Train buildings, is a treat. Kossuth utca and its BUDGET
Play Pub House..........................38 D3 TRANSPORT
Saxophone.................................39 C2 Bus Station........................................44 B3
Station
continuation Széchenyi utca, where the bar- Ibusz can arrange private rooms (from
oque Calvinist Little Church (Kistemplom; %342 2500Ft per person), while Tourinform can
872; Révész tér 2; admission free; h9am-noon Mon-Fri provide a list of dormitory accommodation
OTP bank (Piac utca 16 & 45) Both have 24-hour ATMs. yellow neoclassical Great Church (Nagytemplom; & Sun), completed in 1726, stands with its in summer; most are located 3km north of
Tourinform (%412 250; debrecen@tourinform.hu); %412 694; Kálvin tér; adult/child 200/100Ft; h9am-4pm bastion-like tower, are especially interesting. the centre.
town hall office (Piac utca 20; h8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid- Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-1pm The Status Que Conservative Synagogue (Kápolnási Maróthi György College (%502 780; Blaháné
Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun); summer booth Mon-Sat, 11.30am-1pm Sun Nov-Mar). Built in 1821, it utca), just south of Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca, utca 15; s/d 2200/4400Ft; p) Right in the heart
(Kossuth tér; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep) has become so synonymous with Debrecen dates from 1909 and is once again falling of town, this is one central place with dor-
The very helpful town hall office has more information that mirages of its twin clock towers were apart, while the façade of the nearby Ortho- mitory accommodation. Rooms are fairly
than you can carry away; it can also provide contacts for reportedly seen on the Great Plain early dox synagogue (Pászti utca 6) has enjoyed a lick of basic, facilities are shared, and there are
city guides. last century. Accommodating some 3000 paint but its interior is still waiting for some kitchens, a courtyard and a basketball court
Tourinform Hajdú-Bihar (%534 544; hajdu-m@tour people, the Great Church is Hungary’s larg- much-needed TLC. for guest use.
inform.hu; Kálvin tér 2/a; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am- est Protestant church, and it was here that Away from the centre, the Tímárház (%321 Rákóczi Pension (% 416 638; Rákóczi utca 39;
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
1pm Sat) Information on the entire region. Lajos Kossuth read the Declaration of In- 260; Nagy Gál István utca 6; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am- s/d 6000/84000Ft; p) Rákóczi has an excel-
www.debrecen.hu Covers a range of subjects in dependence from Austria on 14 April 1849. 2pm Sat) is a folk-craft centre and workshop, lent location on a peaceful, leafy street
Hungarian, English and German. The nave is rather plain and austere aside where embroiderers, basket weavers, carvers within easy striking distance of the centre.
from the magnificent organ in the loft be- and so on do their stuff in rotation, while Its rooms, which are arranged around an
Sights hind the pulpit. Climb the 210 steps to the the colourful flea market (Vágóhíd utca; hdaily) inner courtyard, are big, bright with en
Many of the town’s big sights are at the top of the west clock tower for grand views attracts a motley group of Ukrainians, Poles, suite facilities, and the modern furniture
northern end of Piac utca, including the over the city. Romanians, Roma and Hungarians from rests on cool tiled floors.
Főnix (%413 054; Barna utca 17; s/d 3000/4900Ft; p) a pub to some but it’s a far better restaur- QUICK EATS Play Pub House (Batthyány utca 24-26) On a
This communist-style block, with dark cor- ant to most. Medieval décor, sharp serv- Büfé Falatozó (Csapó utca; 100g sausages 200Ft; pedestrian-only street, this place is as close
ridors and simple rooms, is run by friendly ice and excellent Hungarian specialities all h5am-3pm Mon-Sat, 5-11am Sun) In the fruit and to an English-style pub as you’ll find in
staff and is just off the main drag. Ask for a help to create one of Debrecen’s top eating vegetable market, this has more sausage town, and has outside tables made for warm
room with a balcony. experiences. varieties than you can shake a long roll of weather.
Lucullus (%418 513; Piac utca 41; mains 1200- meat at. Try the ‘inviting’ liver and blood
MIDRANGE 1800Ft) Lucullus is a favourite with locals who sausage; as they say, ‘When in Rome…’ Entertainment
Péterfia (%418 246; peterfiapanzio@axelero.hu; Péter- enjoy the restaurant’s throne-like seating, Chinese takeaway (%588 479; Arany János utca 28; Debrecen prides itself on its cultural life
fia utca 37/b; s/d 7000/8000Ft; p) Péterfia is a 20- convivial air and slow but attentive service. mains 550Ft) This hole in the wall is a genuine but at present has no cultural centre; for in-
room pension not far north of the centre, The menu is a varied selection of Hungar- Chinese takeaway and good for a quick, formation check with the staff at Tourinform
with good-sized en-suite rooms filled with ian dishes, including a couple of vegetarian cheap meal. (%412 250; Piac utca 20), the delightful Csokonai
natural-wood furniture. Staff are friendly options. Klári Salátabár (%412 203; Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 3; Theatre (%455 075; Kossuth utca 10) or the Mezon
and its back garden is for guest use. Flaska (%414 582; Miklós utca 4; mains 1500Ft) 100g salad 100-300Ft; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Catering youth information office (% 415 498; Batthyány
Centrum (%416 193; centrumpanzio@axelero.hu; Flaska is easily spotted on Miklós utca; the to vegetarians only, this simple salad bar is utca 2b; h10am-6pm). The latter specialises in
Péterfia utca 37/a; s/d 6900/7500-8000Ft; p) A bit giant terracotta-red flask jutting out from a rare breed indeed in provincial Hungary; the popular music scene and has Internet
like your grandmother’s apartment if she the wall is a dead give-away. This basement salads are served by the 100g. access. Otherwise, pick up a copy of the
collected tacky paraphernalia; knick-knacks restaurant comes locally recommended biweekly entertainment freebie Debreceni
and flowery odds and ends line the recep- and serves up a storm of good Hungarian SELF-CATERING Est and scan the listings.
tion walls and public areas. Rooms are far cuisine. There’s a grocery shop (Piac utca 75; h24hr) Babalu Restaurant and Music Club (%536 414;
less cluttered and the furniture is quite mod- Leveles (%532 982; Medgyessy sétány; mains 1000- within walking distance of the train station Piac utca 26a; hnoon-midnight) With its cane
ern. There’s a private garden out back. 2000Ft) This eatery is close to the thermal and the bustling covered fruit & vegetable chairs and tropical plants, Babalu exudes
Nagyerdő (%410 588; reserve@hotelnagyerdo.hun pools in a quiet park. Its German/Hungarian market (Csapó utca; h5am-3pm Mon-Sat, 5-11am Sun) a safari feel and attracts a more mature
guesthotels.hu; Pallagi út 5; s €46-55, d €62-76; ps) menu just keeps tallying up local recom- has plenty on offer. crowd. It’s also one of the better spots to
This well-organised spa hotel is a tall block mendations, as does its large outdoor catch some live jazz.
in the centre of Nagyerdei Park. Rooms are patio. Drinking Főnix Hall (%518 400; Kassai utca 28) ‘Phoe-
comfy but fairly plain, and there’s a restaur- Pompeji (%416 988; Batthyány utca 4; pizzas 900Ft) Bakelit Music Café (Kossuth utca 19; h9am-11pm nix’ Hall is Debrecen’s main venue for
ant with grilling facilities on site. A flashy restaurant with its very own jungle, Mon-Thu, 9am-2am Fri, 6pm-2am Sat) A student pub large events, whether they be cultural or
Kálvin (%418 522; kalvin@civishotels.hu; Kálvin tér 4; Pompeji serves fine Italian dishes and is a of sorts near the centre, Bakelit attracts a sporting.
s 9750-12,800Ft, d 10,450-14,650Ft; p) A large hotel good spot for a drink on a warm summer boisterous and friendly crowd with its loud
on top of the Udvarház Shopping Centre, evening. music, dark corners and orange-and-brown Shopping
Kálvin offers a range of rooms with either Hajdúsági (cnr Liszt Ferenc utca & Kossuth utca; lunch booths. This is certainly not a place for a You can’t leave the city without buying –
pseudo-antique or bulky dark-wood furni- set menu 400Ft; h11am-3pm & 4-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-10pm quiet chat over a glass of chilled white wine. or at least trying – some of the famous De-
ture. Space is no problem here, and lower- Sat) This is a simple restaurant, but its ever- Belgian Beer Café (%536 373; Piac utca 29) Why brecen sausage available at butcher shops
priced rooms face busy Kálvin tér. changing set menu is a magnet to what ap- locals drink Belgian beer when neighbour- and grocery stores everywhere; the market
pears to be half of Debrecen’s city workers. ing Slovakia and Czech Republic make such is also a good place to procure some. While
TOP END great beverages is anyone’s guess. But there’s on the way to the market, why not stop in at
Aranybika (%508 600; aranybika@civishotels.hu; Piac CAFÉS no denying the popularity of this street-side the lovely antique-cum-curio shop Mestermű
utca 11-15; s €49-79, d €60-96; pas) This is a Carpe Diem (%319 007; Batthyány utca 8; teas & snacks café with its beer hall atmosphere. Kincs és Galéria (Csapó utca 24) nearby.
landmark Art-Nouveau hotel, with 200 400Ft) With its hammock seats, greenery and Saxophone (Piac utca 18) Pretty people gravi-
very different rooms, and is still the place serene atmosphere, this small teahouse is tate to Saxophone, and since Hungary is Getting There & Away
to stay in Debrecen. Rates vary depending an oasis on a pedestrian street dominated filled with pretty folk, it’s often bursting at BUS
on whether you stay in the charming old by concrete eyesores. It stocks teas from the seams. Its fine cocktails may also have From Debrecen you can catch a direct bus
wing or garish new building. around the world for instant consumption something to do with it. to any of the following destinations:
Aquaticum (%514 111; www.aquaticum.hu; Nagyer- or later enjoyment.
dei park 1; r 18,500-19,500Ft; pais) Aquati- Morik Caffé (%413 808; Miklós utca 1; coffee 200Ft) Destination Price Duration Km Frequency
cum is Debrecen’s answer to those wishing This mock-18th-century café has its wait- AUTHOR’S CHOICE
to enjoy the town’s thermal pleasures with- resses running around in blue frocks and Genius (%508 644; Piac utca 11-15; h11am- Békéscsaba 1690Ft 3hr 135 10 daily
out having to wander far. It has everything frilly white bonnets, which is either quaint 7pm Mon & Thu, 11am-3am Tue & Fri, 11am-11pm Eger 1690Ft 2½hr 130 8 daily
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
a good four-star hotel should have, plus or ridiculous depending on your taste. Ei- Wed, 7pm-5am Sat) Genius, in the Aranybika Hajdúszoboszló 302Ft 30min 20 half-hourly
wellness features. ther way, the coffee is great. hotel, is arguably the best bar outside Buda- Miskolc 1210Ft 2½hr 100 hourly
Gara (Kálvin tér 6; ice cream from 100Ft; h9am-6pm) pest. Its dark red interior, lounge chairs, sexy Nádudvar 544Ft 1hr 40 7 daily
Eating Gara has some of the best cakes and ice sounds and excellent cocktails combine to Nyíregyháza 907Ft 1½hr 70 4 daily
RESTAURANTS cream (made with real fruit and loads of create a decadent air, all of which is topped Szarvas 1930Ft 3¼hr 155 2 daily
Csokonai (%410 802; Kossuth utca 21; mains 1200- it) outside Budapest and has lines of eager off by the occasional live music act. Szeged 2910Ft 5hr 230 3 daily
1800Ft) This quality cellar-restaurant may be ice-cream lovers to prove it. Tokaj 1030Ft 2hr 85 2 daily
Foreign destinations served by bus include stage-managed horse shows, costumed HORTOBÁGY 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Košice (Kassa) in Slovakia at 7am Mon- csikósok (cowboys) and tacky gewgaws on To Máta,
day to Thursday and, in Romania, Oradea sale are all over the top. Still, dark clouds A B Hortobágy C D
Club (2km) ond kr Dék
t ány
m
(Nagyvárad) at 6.30am on Tuesday and appearing out of nowhere to cover a blaz- INFORMATION köz
ig
M Train
Zs
National Park Information Centre..(see 2) ór Station
icz
Thursday and at 5am on Saturday March ing sun and the possibility of spotting a icz
ór
OTP Bank....................................(see 8) Zs
M
igm
to October. mirage may have you dreaming of a differ- 1 Post Office.....................................1 C1
su
on
d
no
u
Tourinform.................................... 2 C2 á kr
ent Hortobágy – the mythical one that only yJ
t
th
Hortobágyi út
ssu
an Erd
Ar Hu ei
Ko
TRAIN ever existed in paintings, poems and active SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ho
n Fe József Attila u
s u ya ren
rtob
Museum of Shepherds...................3 C2 ó di cu
Debrecen is served by around 20 trains daily imaginations. ikl u
József Attila u
Round Theatre...............................4 C2 yi M 1
ágy
Zrín
from Nyugati (and sometimes Keleti) station Visitors Centre.............................(see 2) 5
Riv
Erdei Ferenc u
Délibáb köz
Orientation & Information
u
er
in Budapest (2360Ft, 220km) via Szolnok 9
th
SLEEPING 8
ssu
Ko
Hortobágy Inn................................5 D1
(1420Ft, 1¾ hours, 120km), including nine Buses – as few as there are – stop on the main Puszta Camping.............................6 C2 To Pásztortanya, Nine-Hole
Petªfi
tér 2
Macskatelek 7 Czinege János u
2½-hour expresses daily. Cities to the north road (Rte 33) near the village centre or on Airfield (3km);
Bridge 33
EATING Tiszafüred (36km) 3
and northwest – Nyíregyháza (430Ft, 45 Petőfi tér near the shopping centre; the Hortobágyi Csárda.........................7 C2 To Hortobágy Hotel
2 33
minutes, 50km), Tokaj (890Ft, 1½ hours, train station is to the northeast at the end of Pizza Sfera......................................8 C2 4 & Camping (2km);
Debrecen (39km)
80km) and Miskolc (1420Ft, 2½ hours, Kossuth utca. TRANSPORT
135km) – can best be reached by train. For Hortobágy National Park Information Centre Bus Stop.........................................9 C2
Eger (1212Ft, three hours, 120km), take (%529 935; Kossuth utca; www.hnp.hu; h8am-5pm To Puszta 6
Zoo (800m)
the train to Füzesabony and change. For Mon-Fri) Housed in the new Visitors Centre.
points south, use the bus or a bus/train OTP ATM In the shopping complex.
combination. Post office (Kossuth utca 2; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) agency with specialised bird-watching and a change of heart during research (like the
Daily international departures from De- Tourinform (%589 321; hortobagy@tourinform.hu; nature tours, also offers guiding services. entire village it seems) and will reopen
brecen to Valea lui Mihai in Romania leave Kossuth utca; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) In the primarily as an exhibition space for crafts
at 7.15am and 2.40pm. new Visitors Centre. OTHER SIGHTS produced at the workshops housed in the
The Nine-Hole Bridge (Kilenc-lyukú híd), new visitors centre.
Getting Around Sights built in 1833 and spanning the marshy Hor-
Tram 1 – the only line in town – is ideal HORTOBÁGY NATIONAL PARK tobágy River, is the longest stone bridge Activities
both for transport and sightseeing. From With its varied terrain and water sources, the (and certainly the most sketched, painted At Máta, about 2km north of Hortobágy vil-
the train station, it runs north along Piac park has some of the best bird-watching in and photographed) in Hungary. Just before lage, is Hungary’s largest riding centre, the
utca to Kálvin tér and then carries on to Europe. Indeed, some 344 species (of the it stands the Hortobágyi Csárda, one of the Hortobágy Club (%369 020; www.hortobagyhotel.hu).
Nagyerdei Park, where it loops around for continent’s estimated 400) have been spot- original eating houses (1781) used by salt Here you can take riding lessons for begin-
the same trip southward. ted here in the past 20 years, including many traders on their way from the Tisza River ners (4800Ft per hour) and intermediates
Most other city transport can be caught at types of grebes, herons, shrikes, egrets, to Debrecen. The inns provided itinerant (3000Ft per hour), or ride off into the sun-
the southern end of Petőfi tér. Trolleybuses spoonbills, storks, kites, warblers and eagles. Roma fiddlers with employment, though set across the puszta (advanced riders only;
2 and 3 link the train and bus stations. The great bustard, one of the world’s largest they did not originally live in this part of 3000Ft per hour); two-hour carriage rides
You can also ring for a local taxi (%444 birds, standing a metre high and weighing Hungary. Gypsy music and csárdas have (2000Ft per person) of the puszta are avail-
444, 444 555). in at 20kg, has its own reserve with limited been synonymous ever since. able too. The club also offers bird-watching
access to two-legged mammals. The Puszta Zoo (%589 110; adult/child 300/150Ft, tours (per person 16,000Ft), fishing (gear
HORTOBÁGY Visitor passes, available from the national horse show 1000/500Ft; h9am-6pm Mar-Nov), with its hire 500Ft per day) and boating trips
%52 / pop 1770 park’s head office (%529 935; Kossuth utca; admission weird and wonderful animals of the puszta, (2000Ft per person), and hot-air balloon-
This village, some 40km west of Debrecen, 900Ft), allow entry to four restricted areas of is a fun place for kids of all ages. You’ll find ing (33,000Ft per person).
is the centre of the Hortobágy region, once the park. To see the best parts of the park, God’s acid experimentations here, too; the The national park office organises scenic
celebrated for its sturdy cowboys, inns and though – the closed areas north of Rte 33 heavy-set Hungarian grey cattle, the curly- flights (%06 30 565 7959) over the region, but
Gypsy bands. But you’ll want to come here and the saline swamplands south of it – you haired mangalica pig, the Rasta-like kuvasz they’re not cheap – 1500Ft per minute for
to explore the 810-sq-km Hortobágy Na- must have a guide and travel by horse, car- dog, and the racka sheep, whose corkscrew- up to three people. Planes take off from the
tional Park and wildlife preserve – home riage or special 4WD; the national park’s like horns are particularly devilish. airfield at Macskatelek, about 3km west of
to hundreds of birds, as well as plant spe- head office offers infrequent tours of the The Museum of Shepherds (Petőfi tér 1), in an the village at the 70km stone.
cies that are usually found only by the sea. park. A taster of the park’s flora and fauna 18th-century carriage house across from the Bicycles are available for rent from Puszta
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Its importance as a cultural landscape has through interactive displays is available at csárda, was closed at the time of research for Camping (% 369 300; baranyais@freemail.hu) for
not just been noted in Hungary – in 1999 the new Visitors Centre (under construction restoration. When it reopens expect to find 1000Ft per day and Hortobágy Club for
Unesco promoted the park to world herit- at the time of research), along with trad- displays on pastoral life at the turn of last 2000Ft per day.
age status. itional crafts, such as woodcarving, leather century, and web-cams of the puszta and
It’s true that the Hortobágy has been work, pottery, and the like. other such hi-tech installations. Festivals & Events
milked by the Hungarian tourism in- Aquila Nature Tours (%30-326 3426; Péterfia Like the Museum of Shepherds next The area is busiest in July when Máta hosts
dustry for everything its worth, and the utca 46, Debrecen), a Debrecen-based travel door, the Round Theatre (Körszín) was having the International Equestrian Day, during the
Hortobágy Bridge Fair on 19-20 August, and most celebrated roadside inn, which also sor) lies about 3km south. Reach Hősök tere a water park with nine adventurous slides
on Pentecost when the National Herdsmen means it’s touristy and a little pricey. Order by walking northwest along Rákóczi utca. and plenty of hyped kids.
Competition & Shepherd’s Meeting is held. a duck dish, relax to the Gypsy standards Near the Calvinist church (Kálvin tér 9; admis-
and admire the Hortobágy kitsch taking up Information sion free), built in 1717, is a 20m stretch of
Sleeping every square centimetre of wall space. Main post office (Kálvin tér 1) wall and a small tower – all that remains
For private rooms, check with Tourinform Aside from the Csárda, there ain’t much OTP bank (Szilfákalja út 10) With an ATM next to the ABC of a 15th-century Gothic fortress destroyed
or scour Arany János utca and Czinege else around: Pizza Sfera (pizzas 600-1000Ft; supermarket. by the Turks in 1660. Across Hősök tere a
János utca. h5am-10pm) is a rough-and-ready pizzeria Tourinform (%558 929; hajduszoboszlo@tourinform.hu; statue of István Bocskai stands not so proud –
Pásztortanya (%369 127; s/d 2500/5000Ft; p) in the shopping complex and Hortobágy Inn Szent István Park 1-3; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat a pint-sized prince out of all proportion to
This inn is a traditional Hortobágy-style (mains 1000Ft) is another basic establishment Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat mid- his snorting stallion and great deeds.
farmhouse of four rooms with shared fa- with Hungarian dishes. Away from town, Sep–May) At the main thermal baths entrance. Down Bocskai utca, past the 18th-century
cilities and attached restaurant. It’s a soli- the restaurant at Pásztortanya (mains 1000Ft) baroque Catholic church (Bocskai utca 6) with its
tary building 3km west of town, next to the enjoys views across the plains from its ter- Sights & Activities invariably locked doors, where Pope John
Macskatelek airfield. race, but for less rustic dining try either of The striking Forest of Bells Monument, honour- Paul II prayed as Karol Wojtyla, Bishop of
Hortobágy Inn (%369 137; Kossuth utca 1; s/d the Hortobágy Club’s (%369 020) restaurants; ing the dead of wars throughout Hungarian Kraków, in the early 1970s, is the Bocskai Mu-
3500/6000Ft; p) Without camping, this is the Magyaros (mains 1000-2000Ft) serves traditional history, stands near the entrance to the ther- seum (%362 165; Bocskai utca 12; adult/child 400/200Ft;
most central place to stay. Its rooms and Hungarian fare in tavern-like surroundings mal baths (%558 558; Szent István 1-3; baths adult/child h9am-1pm & 2-4pm Tue-Sun), a temple to the
facilities are basic, but they do come with and Hajdú (mains 1500-3000Ft) takes the town’s 900/800Ft, after 4pm 700/600Ft, week-pass 5400/4800Ft, memory of Prince István and his hajdúk
balcony (perfect for storm watching) and the top restaurant prize with its fine service and including entrance to open-air pools; hbaths 7am-7pm, (Heyduck) helpers. Among the saddles,
staff are pleasant and friendly. international menu. open-air pools 8am-8pm Jul-Aug, 8am-7pm Jun, 8am-6pm pistols and swords hangs Bocskai’s banner –
Puszta Camping (%369 300; baranyais@freemail May & Sep), a complex comprising a dozen the standard of the Heyduck cavalry,
Getting There & Away
ὈὈὈ
.hu; camp sites per adult/child/tent 700/550/650Ft, bun- mineral and freshwater pools, a wave pool, picturing the prince doing battle with a
galows per person 1600Ft; hMay-Sep; ps) Oc- Up to eight daily buses between Debre- saunas, solarium and treatment centre. leopard (which mysteriously changes into
cupying a quiet spot away from busy cen (via Hajdúszoboszló; 484Ft, 35 min- Rowing boats are available for 1000Ft per a lion in later versions).
Rte 33 and close to the river, Puszta offers utes, 40km) and Eger (1150Ft, two hours, hour. Towards the back of the baths is the A lovely thatched cottage houses the
basic facilities and a tiny thermal pool. 95km) stop in Petőfi tér. Hortobágy is on Aquapark (adult/child 2000/1000Ft; h 10am-6pm), István Fazekas Pottery House (%361 358; Ady Endre
Hortobágy Hotel & Camping (%369 071; camp the train line linking Debrecen (430Ft, 50
sites per person/tent 500/750Ft, s/d/tr 2900/5800/7800Ft; minutes, 40km) and Füzesabony (658Ft, 1¼ HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ 0 500 m
ὈὈὈ
0 0.3 miles
p) Hortobágy is another basic hotel, this hours, 60km) and is served by up to seven
y ly
Gá 20
tán irá
time 2km east of the town centre. Rooms trains daily, with the last train leaving for A B To Airport; Thermal C bo D
sé ás k
Camping (1km); rA
Aquapark (1km) ro
áty
nu
have bathrooms and windows are guarded Debrecen about 8.30pm. Trains headed for INFORMATION
M
Main Post Office................................1 A3 12 Holiday
by the all-important insect netting; camp- Füzesabony (last one at 8.32pm) also stop at
Jó
Fü
Area
zs
OTP Bank...........................................2 B2 11 22
rdª
ef
ing consists of pitching your tent on the Tiszafüred (346Ft, 35 minutes, 30km). Tourinform.........................................3 D1
At
1
tu
til
a
or
front lawn and using the hotel’s facilities. To Debrecen
Sp
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 7 (20km)
HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ
g
Bocskai Museum.................................4 B3
zu
ey u
Hª u
s
Kölc
ló
Calvinist Church.................................5 A3
for
Eating
ász
To Train
%52 / pop 23,400
rás
Catholic Church.................................. 6 B3 Station
óL
Csanádi
4
Hortobágyi Csárda (%589 399; Petőfi tér 2; mains Hajdúszoboszló, 20km southwest of De- 'Forest of Bells' Monument................. 7 D1 3 De (3km)
ab
tér
Sz
Fortress Wall......................................8 A3 út ák
alja Fe
Gó
1000-2000Ft; h8am-10pm) This is Hungary’s brecen, is Hungary’s largest bathing centre. n d u
István Bocskai Statue.......................... 9 B3 13 19 fák ren
lya
mo D
ar Szil c u
M
sig
István FazekasZPottery House...........10 A3 ajo
Thousands flock here to take advantage
zu
u 16
ru
ru 14
cz Entrance....................11 D1
g
Thermal Baths i
Be
Majo
r r
zu
ó so
of the thermal spa’s medicinal benefits, or
ss
Thermal M ai
g
Baths Main Entrance...........(see 3)
en
ye
Jók i
AUTHOR’S CHOICE
ὈὈὈ
u
simply to relax in its temperate waters.
Iso
15
t
nz
Hortobágy Club (%369 020; www.hortobagy 2 aú
Kereszt u
o
lj SLEEPING
ka Wesselé
u
u
fá nyi u
zil
Orientation
zy
Ko
hotel.hu; s 14,000-16,800Ft, d 18,000-21,600Ft, S Délibáb.............................................

12 C1
Be
né
vá
th
Muskátli...........................................13 C2
Ke
cs
len
ste 22,000-26,400Ft, house 22,000-26,400Ft; Almost everything you’ll want or need can 2
M
u
Halasi Fekete Négy Évszak.....................................14 D2
át
Gá
ty
é
ar
Péter tér
ps) Hortobágy Club offers a taste of
bo
be found on the broad street (Rte 4) run-
u
sm
ru
Tompa u
EATING
Da
rö
Ad re u
En
21
Vö
the puszta without having to rough it like ning through town and changing names
d
nk
y
10 17 Arany Oroszlán................................ 15 D2
ó
Fo
u
u Kemencés.........................................16 C2
the shepherds of old. This four-star hotel four times: Debreceni útfél, Szilfákalja út, gt ász
u ébet
Gö hú y
n Market.............................................17 B2
nc y Bá
s
Erz
u
zy u
has excellent amenities – swimming pool, Hősök tere and Dózsa György utca. The Nelson..............................................18 B3
os
Pá
Lu
án
lu
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
th
Szilfa................................................19 D2
sauna, fitness centre, sports fields and two thermal baths and park, lumped together
yJ
er
Pu Kálvin re
te
an
u
sk tér 1
ök 9
Ar
restaurants – and alongside its deluxe as the Holiday Area (Üdülőterület), occupy in
u
H
ªs DRINKING
3 18 Al Hambra Eastern Bar.....................20 D1
rooms and suites, individual houses com- the northeastern portion of Hajdúszoboszló. 8 5
Lu
Ko the
plete with private stables. Thankfully the Hősök tere – the town centre – lies to the Bo ssu ru ENTERTAINMENT
u
csk th City Cultural Centre..........................21 B2
Sas
ai La Kíg
complex isn’t multistorey, so doesn’t impact southwest. Ist
vá
nu 6
jos
u
yó
u
Endre u
Rá
on its surroundings. The bus station (Fürdő utca) is just north 4
kó
czi
u To Train
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.......................................22 D1
4
of Debreceni útfél. The train station (Déli Station (3km)
242 G R E AT P L A I N • • S o u t h e r n P l a i n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N • • S o u t h e r n P l a i n 243
utca 2; h8am-4pm Mon), featuring the distinc- trappings and traditionally clad waitresses, restaurant scene. But the puszta is not far History
tive black pottery produced by the Fazekas Kemencés is cashing in on the puszta in a away; Bugac, one of Hungary’s better hubs Kecskemét’s agricultural wealth was used
family in neighbouring Nádudvar. big way but it does have good daily specials depicting life on the plain, is easily reached wisely – it was able to redeem all its debts in
and conscientious staff. from many of the area’s western towns. cash in 1832 – and today the city can boast
Sleeping Nelson (%270 226; cnr Hősök tere & Kossuth utca; some of the most spectacular architecture
The choice of accommodation in this mains 1200-2000Ft) With an expansive menu, KECSKEMÉT in the country. It was also – and still is – an
tourist-oriented town is enormous (Mátyás quality cuisine, attentive staff and street- %76 / pop 103,300 important cultural centre, home to an art-
király sétány is particularly loaded down side seating, Nelson is a popular choice Halfway between the Danube and the Tisza ists’ colony and the world-famous Institute
with high-rise hotels), so you shouldn’t with locals and tourists alike. Rivers in the heart of the Southern Plain of Music Education.
have trouble tracking something appropri- Szilfa (József Attila utca 2; mains 800-1500Ft) This is Kecskemét, a city ringed with vineyards
ate down. If you’re looking for a private pleasant and simple eatery is handy to the and orchards that don’t seem to stop at the Orientation
room, consult the list provided by Tour- thermal baths and has a covered terrace for limits of this ‘garden city’. Colourful archi- Kecskemét is a city of multiple squares that
inform or hunt around for szoba kiadó escaping the summer heat. tecture, fine museums, apricot groves and run into one another without warning and
(room for rent) signs that in the high sea- The partially covered market (Bethlen Gábor the region’s excellent barackpálinka (ap- can be a little confusing at first. The bus and
son sprout like mushrooms after a rain. utca) deals mainly in fresh produce, flowers ricot brandy) beckon, and the Kiskunság main train stations are opposite one another
ὈὈὈ ὈὈ
Négy Évszak (%273 140; www.hotelnegyevszak and plenty of gossip. National Park, the puszta of the Southern near József Katona Park. A 10-minute walk
.net; Jókai sor 12; s/d €38/45; p) This newly built Plain, is right at the back door. southwest along Nagykőrösi utca will bring
hotel puts most of Hajdúszoboszló’s con- Entertainment
temporaries to shame, with spacious rooms Hajdúszoboszló is a family town so don’t KECSKEMÉT 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
and colourful, modern furniture and décor. expect hip bars and pumping clubs. To Budapest To House of
It’s an easy stroll away to the spa. City Cultural Centre (%557 693; Szilfákalja út 2) A B Sz C D
bu
(79km) ar Nature (11.5km)
lam
va
Be
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
su
Muskátli (%363 744; muskatlihajduszoboszlo@mat- This centre offers tips on what’s on in town,
Ga
32
thl
Sétaté
5 Öz
INFORMATION
en
u Train
Bu
avnet.hu; Daru zug 5a; s €40-42, d €55-60; ps) This including organ and choral concerts in the Ibusz....................................(see 16) Station
krt
da
ru
körút
u
iu
Main Post Office..................... 1 D2 József
upmarket hotel moonlights as a wellness Calvinist church.
ap
1 ou Katona
sz
OTP Bank................................2 C2 Mih
Ka
enyi
Park
centre, offering all manner of beauty, spa Al Hambra Eastern Bar (Mátyás király sétány 8) Piramis Internet Café...............3 C2
Széch
Tourinform..............................4 C3
and medical therapies. Rooms are suitably A suitable place to rehydrate after a long day
Ku
ály
u
ru
Gyenes
large, with bare-wood or tiled floors and soaking in steamy brown mineral water.
Mih
zy u
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES i
ck
Mihály 21 ös
ªr
rt
26
Jók
csy
Calvinist Church.......................5 C2
Bu
yk
onc
tér
surprisingly basic furniture.
Ὀ ὈὈ
nká
g
ai
da
u
Calvinist New College............(see 5) ai Na
Los
M
csk
iu
Mu
Délibáb (%360 366; delibab@civishotels.hu; József Getting There & Away Franciscan Church of St Frá
Bo út
ór
ter
Gyö czi
u
Nicholas...............................6 C3 Káp rgy Piaristák kó
Attila utca 4; s €28-50, d €40-63; ps) With a mas- Buses from Hajdúszoboszló depart for Mis- Great Church...........................7 C2
oln
au
19
u
tere Rá út
z i
c
sive 250 rooms, Délibáb is one of the larger kolc five times daily (1450Ft, three hours, House of Technology (Former Hornyik kó
Rá
u lom
Synagogue).........................8 C2 János 24
Zi 17
spa hotels. It has its own wellness centre and 120km) and up to two dozen head to De-
p
m krt 2 Be
t em
Hungarian Folk Craft Museum..9 A3 ay 23 A rc
11 ran 8 sé
Fe
u
rög
rooms are old fashioned but comfy enough. brecen daily (302Ft, 30 minutes, 20km). 2 Hungarian Museum of Naive y ny
csk
Mária u Széchenyi 13 Jáno
Gö
Artists................................10 B3 iu
tér u
e
su
Rates vary depending on the facilities. International destinations served by bus in- Kecskemét NyGallery...............(see 12) 33
körút
ὈὈὈὈ
u 16 Szabadság 12
íl u
Leskowsky Musical Instrument ry Cs 20 15
Thermal Camping (%558 552; Böszörményi út 35a; clude Oradea (6am Tuesday and Thursday) Collection...........................11 B2 Kö Bá
tho án
yi
tér
u 3 u
r András u
22 5
enyi
lcs 27 1 Kla
camp sites per person/tent 800/800Ft; p) Thermal in Romania and Košice (6.20am Monday to Ornamental Palace................12 C2 ey 7 pk Be
m
Széch
u au
Otthon Cinema......................13 C2 30 Kossuth 25 Kálvin
Fe
Camping is part of the thermal spa but is Thursday) in Slovakia. Ju tér Vörö
cs
Town Hall..............................(see 4) an tér smart
spá
ke
ffm Deák Ferenc 4 yu
located on the northern side of the complex. Trains headed for Szolnok (1212Ft, 1½ Ho
u
Gá
Toy Museum & Workshop...(see 10) tér Town 6 14
10 Hall Kéttemplom köz Kl
Zoltán Kodály Institute of Music ap
It’s a flat, basic site with some tree cover, hours, 100km) and Budapest (2200Ft, 2½ 28 Cso ka
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky u
Education...........................14 C3 ngr u
Katona József u
31
Lá
ádi
overlooking farmers’ fields and the town’s hours, 200km) from Debrecen (182Ft, 15
Do
u
szl
u 29
yu
Er
ér
bó
óK
u ke
ud
ez
Cs Katona
airport. minutes, 20km) stop at Hajdúszoboszló a or lF
tv
fal
er
áro
Ist
ép nd József er
Hé
Kis
Füz
Té
vá
en
Sá 18
ly
couple of times an hour throughout the 3 gla u kö tér cu
n
i
ªf
u
es u
gy u t rú
u
ár t
u
ós Pe Sarka
Eating
or
day. u ikl
ny
ntyú
nd
u
yá
M To Kecskemét KK Train
Sá
nt
za
ári
tth
e 9 u
Invariably your hotel or pension will have
fi
ªu Station (350m); Flea Market i
Gé
Sz ny
ak
tª
Ba
z r í
rfª (1.5km); Bugac (30km)
Pe
Z
ile
rt
Se
Sz
an attached restaurant, so you won’t have to
Re
SOUTHERN PLAIN
en
u SLEEPING Market.......................................26 C1
ti la
tG
wander far for food. There are also plenty At Apolló Hotel.......................... 15 D2 Túróczy......................................27 C2
ell
ért
út Aranyhomok..........................16 C2
of sausage, lángos and ice-cream stalls along y
rg Boldogasszony
u
Bo
Fábián Pension.......................17 B2 DRINKING
M
Ta
yö tér
ur
to
tá
Ár
G Három Gúnár.........................18 C3 Country Pub..............................28 C3
Szilfákalja út and in the park. The Southern Plain (Dél-Alföld), spanning
rs
ak
nd
pá
zs
or
öz
u
Teachers'
὆὆὆὆὆὆
Dó
G R E AT P L A I N
dk
G R E AT P L A I N
y
Sz
Arany Oroszlán (%273 094; Bessenyei utca 14; lunch the lower regions of the Danube and Tisza
u
am
College..............................19 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
rt
Temes
os
52 Udvarház...............................20 C2 Bols Music Café.........................29 C3

menu 510Ft, mains 1000Ft) This quiet restaurant Rivers, holds the lion’s share of the Great
὆὆὆὆὆὆
tér
u
Ipo
u 5 Ferenc
üll
ª t Erdei Cultural Centre.......30 B2
ly
4 örú Katona Theatre................31 C3

offers a relaxed meal away from the kitsch Plain’s more intriguing towns and cities. k EATING h k
tJózsef
u
Kü
὆὆὆὆὆὆
s u
To Autós Camping (2km); Baranyi...................................21 Kos Xtreme Music Club..................(see 29)
C1
of the main street. The menu is solidly Hun- Kecskemét and Szeged, for example, are Aqua and Water-Slide Park Fodor.....................................22 C2
὆὆὆὆὆὆
& Leisure Time Park (2.5km)
garian, with specialities like grilled trout. two centres for fine arts and culture, with Görög Udvar..........................23 C2 TRANSPORT
si út
Cemetery Italia.......................................24 C2 Intercity Bus Station...................32 D1
Kemencés (%362 221; Szilfákalja út 40/a; mains attractive architecture, absorbing museums
Hala
὆὆὆὆὆὆
Labirintus...............................25 C2 Local Bus Terminal.....................33 C2
1000Ft; h8am-9pm) With its pseudo-rustic and an above-average (for the plain) bar and
you to the first of the squares, Szabadság tér. restored Otthon Cinema (Széchenyi tér 4), on the The Hungarian Folk Craft Museum (Mag-
The city’s other train station, Kecskemét corner of pedestrian Görögtemplom utca. yar Népi Iparművészet Múzeuma; %327 203; Serfőző AUTHOR’S CHOICE
KK (Halasi út), from where narrow-gauge utca 19a; adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat), Fábián (% 477 677; www.hotels.hu/fabian;
trains head for Bugac, is on the southern SZABADSÁG TÉR the granddaddy of all museums in Kec- Kápolna utca 14; r 7500-9500Ft; pa) With its
continuation of Batthyány utca. Walking northeast into Szabadság tér, you’ll skemét, is further southwest and a block friendly and knowledgeable staff, spacious
pass the 17th-century Calvinist church and in from Dózsa György út. Some 10 rooms and spotless modern rooms, and quiet
Information the Calvinist New College (Református újkol- of an old farm complex are crammed with setting, Fábián is easily the best choice in
Ibusz (%486 955; Kossuth tér 3) In Aranyhomok hotel. légium) from 1912, a later version of the embroidery, woodcarving, furniture, agri- town. Rooms either face the inner garden
Main post office (Kálvin tér 10-12) Near the centre of Hungarian Romantic style that looks like cultural tools and textiles, so don’t try to or busier street, and only the more expen-
town. a Transylvanian castle and is now a music see everything at once. sive ones come with air-con. Bike rental is
OTP bank (Szabadság tér 1/a) Has foreign exchange and school. Two other buildings in the square The Leskowsky Musical Instrument Collection available for 1500Ft per day.
ATM. are among the city’s finest. The Art Nouveau (Leskowsky Hangszergyűjtemény; %486 616; Zimay Lás-
Piramis Internet Café (Csányi utca 1-3; per hr 300Ft; Ornamental Palace (Cifrapalota), which dates zló utca 6/a; admission free; hby appointment) traces
h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun) Upstairs in from 1902 and is covered in multicoloured the development of music-making over the Autós Camping (%329 398; Csabay Géza körút 5;
a small shopping mall. majolica tiles, now contains the Kecskemét centuries and has a decent collection of in- camp sites per person/tent 750/660Ft, bungalows 4500-
Tourinform (%481 065; kecskemet@tourinform.hu; Gallery (Kecskeméti Képtár; %480 776; Rákóczi út 1; struments from five continents. 7150Ft; hApr-Oct; p) Autós is 3km south-
Kossuth Lajos tér 1; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat adult/child 260/130Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). Don’t west of the centre, next to the Aqua Park.
& Sun Jul-Aug, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Jun & go in so much for the art; climb the steps MARKET Its neat rows of tents and bungalows (with
Sep, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) Helpful and informed. to the aptly named Decorative Hall (Dísz- Kecskemét’s lively flea market (Kulső Szegedi út) kitchen and bath, but no hot water) have
www.kecskemet.hu Also in German and English. terem) to see the amazing stucco peacock, is southeast of the city. minimal shade.
bizarre windows and more tiles. The House
Sights of Technology (Technika Háza; %487 611; Rákóczi út 2; Activities MIDRANGE
AROUND KOSSUTH TÉR adult/child 100/50Ft; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri), a Moor- Kecskeméts main summer attraction is its Aranyhomok (% 503 730; aranyhomok@axelero.hu;
The city’s main square is dominated by the ish structure dating from 1871, was once a Aqua and Water-Slide Park (%481 724; Csabay Kossuth tér 3; s/d 9200/13,700Ft; ps) This is the
Catholic Great Church (Kossuth tér; admission free) synagogue and is now used for temporary Géza körút 2; adult/child 1000/800Ft; h9am-7pm mid- city’s ugliest hotel from the outside, but in-
built in 1806. The big tablets on the front exhibitions. May–Aug) which, as the name suggests, is a side it’s surprisingly modern. Many rooms
honour (from left to right) a mounted regi- swimming complex loaded with fun things overlook the town’s pretty main square, and
ment of Hussars that served in WWI; citizens MUSEUMS for the kids, but it’s also equipped with the hotel’s wellness centre is included in
who died in the 1848–49 War of Independ- Arguably the city’s most interesting mu- three spas to soothe any aches and pains. the price.
ence; and the Kecskemét victims of WWII. seum and one of the few of its kind in Otherwise, join local frolickers at the lake in Három Gúnár (%483 611; Batthyány utca 1-7; s/d
From June to August its tower (admission 300Ft; Europe, the Hungarian Museum of Naive Artists Leisure Time Park (Szabadidőpark) just north 9,100/11,300Ft; p) This charming and friendly
h9am-noon & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) can be climbed for (Magyar Naiv Müvészek Múzeuma; %324 767; Gáspár of the swimming complex. small hotel, formed by cobbling four old
views of the city’s sun-bleached rooftops. András utca 11; adult/child 150/50Ft; h10am-5pm Tue- townhouses together, has 46 smallish rooms
On the eastern side of Kossuth tér is the Sun mid-Mar–Oct) is in the Stork House (1730), Festivals & Events (the best are Nos 306 to 308). From here it’s
Franciscan Church of St Nicholas (Szent Miklós fer- surrounded by a white wall, just off Petőfi Special events in Kecskemét’s calendar in- an easy walk to the centre.
ences templom; admission free), dating in part from Sándor utca. Lots of predictable themes here, clude the cultural Spring Festival in March and Apolló Hotel (%412 620; apollo.hotel@matavnet
the late 13th century; the Zoltán Kodály Insti- but the warmth and craft of Rozália Albert the Hirős Week Festival in late August which .hu; Tatay András utca 1/b; s/d €30/42; pa) Rooms
tute of Music Education (Kodály Zoltán Zenepedagó- Juhászné’s work, the drug-like visions of pays homage to the richness of Kecskemét (some of which come with a balcony) at the
giai Intézet; %481 518; Kéttemplom köz 1; adult/child Dezső Mokry-Mészáros and the paintings agricultural produce, notably the golden Apolló are big, airy and comfy, even though
120/60Ft; h10am-6pm) occupies the baroque of András Süli (Hungary’s answer to Henri sárgabarack (apricot). June is a changeable the furnishings are dated. The staff can be
monastery behind it to the east. Inside, one Rousseau) will hold your attention. month: every even year sees the International somewhat chaotic but friendly all the same.
of the corridors is devoted to the institute’s Next door, the Toy Museum & Workshop Children’s Festival hit town, and every odd year Udvarház (%413 912; Csányi utca 1-3; s/d 11,900/
composer-namesake. The sandy-pink town (Szórakaténusz Játékmúzeum; % 481 469; adult/child accommodates the Kodály International Music 14,500Ft; pa) Tucked away in a courtyard
hall (%513 513; hby appointment), a lovely late- 300/150Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a small col- Festival. with 17 rooms, this place is small, quiet,
19th-century building designed by Ödön lection of 19th- and early-20th-century central and almost falls in the shadow of
Lechner, is a mixture of Art Nouveau/ dolls, wooden trains, board games and so Sleeping the Great Church.
Secessionist and folkloric elements, pro- on, dumped haphazardly in glass cases. But BUDGET
ducing a uniquely Hungarian style. Its the museum spends most of its time and Tourinform has an extensive list of college Eating & Drinking
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
carillon chimes out strains of works by money on organising events and classes for accommodation in town and Ibusz can ar- Görög Udvar (%492 513; Széchenyi tér 9; mains 950-
Ferenc Erkel, Kodály, Mozart, Handel and kids (workshops adult/child 300/150Ft), range private rooms (from 3000Ft). 1500Ft) Görög Udvar looks grubby from the
Beethoven several times during the day and which run 10am to noon and 2.30pm to 5pm Teachers’ College (%486 977; Piaristák tere 4; s/d outside but inside it’s another story; excel-
its floral ceilings and frescoes of Hungarian Thursday and Saturday, and 10am to noon 2000/4000Ft; hmid-Jun–Aug; p) This is the most lent Greek food is served either in its quiet
heroes were painted by Bertalan Székely, on Sunday. Much is made of Ernő Rubik, central of Kesckemét’s college accommoda- inner courtyard or open restaurant rooms.
who tended to romanticise the past. An- the Hungarian inventor of that infuriating tion; rooms are typically basic yet functional, Labirintus (Kéttemplom köz 2; pizzas from 400Ft)
other beautiful example of this style is the Rubik’s Cube from the 1970s. with single beds and shared bathrooms. A cellar restaurant with a smattering of
charm close to the centre; its vast array of destinations. Buses depart hourly to Bu- Bugac; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri); it also has a to Bugac leaves at 7.30am, so you’ll be twid-
pizza and pastas is popular with the locals. dapest (1030Ft, 1½ hours, 85km), every small office at the park entrance that can dling your thumbs for quite some time until
Túróczy (% 509 175; Szabadság tér 2; set menu two hours to Szeged (1090Ft, 1¾ hours, only help with prices. The House of Nature the horse show starts.
2600Ft) Túróczy is Kesckemét’s silver service 85km) and twice daily to Pécs (2410Ft, (% 482 611; www.knp.hu in Hungarian; Liszt Ferenc
restaurant, with set menus of Hungarian 4½ hours, 200km). Other destinations in- utca 19, Kecskemét; h9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), KALOCSA
and international cuisine, and a terrace clude Baja (2410Ft, 2½ hours, 120km, four the park’s official office in Kecskemét, is %78 / pop 18,200
overlooking the main square. daily), Békéscsaba (1570Ft, three hours, another good source of information. Kalocsa is a quintessential small Hungar-
Fodor (Szabadság tér 2; h9am-9pm) This pink 125km, five daily), Debrecen (2910Ft, 5½ At the park’s entrance you can board a ian town – rich in history, but as quiet as
ice-cream and cake shop not only serves hours, 235km, one daily), Eger (1829Ft, four horse-driven carriage (adult/child including museum a cemetery on a weekday. Its past has cer-
some of the finest confections in Kecskemét, hours, 145km, two daily), Gyula (1690Ft, & horse show 2200/1100Ft; h12.15pm May-Sep, extra tainly left its mark though (with Esztergom,
but – with its position right on the main 3¼ hours, 140km, two daily) and Szolnok carriage 2.15pm Jun-Aug) or walk 1.5km along the Kalocsa was one of the two episcopal seats
square – also has one of the best spots in (968Ft, 1¾ hours, 75km, seven daily). sandy track to the Herder Museum (h10am- founded by King Stephen in 1009 from
which to consume them. 5pm May-Oct), a circular structure designed to the country’s 10 dioceses), and a couple of
Baranyi (Nagykőrösi utca 15; h9am-9pm) On TRAIN look like a horse-driven dry mill. It’s filled sights are worthy of a detour.
Kecskemét’s very own yellow brick road, Kecskemét is on the train line linking Nyu- with stuffed fauna and pressed flora of the
Baranyi is another popular ice-cream shop gati station in Budapest (1212Ft, 1½ hours, Kiskunság, as well as branding irons, carved Orientation & Information
that produces particularly tasty cakes. 105km) with Szeged (890Ft, 1¼ hours, wooden pipes, embroidered fur coats and a The streets of Kalocsa fan out from Szen-
Italia (%484 627; Hornyik János körút 4; pizzas from 85km). To get to Debrecen (2030Ft, three tobacco pouch made from a gnarled old ram’s tháromság tér, site of Kalocsa Cathedral and
500Ft) Italia is a less atmospheric pizzeria than hours, 180km) and other towns on the scrotum. the Archbishop’s Palace. The bus station
Labirintus but it does a roaring trade with Eastern Plain, you must change at Cegléd. The horse show (h1.15pm May-Sep, extra show lies at the southern end of the main avenue,
students from the nearby teacher’s college, A very slow narrow-gauge train leaves Kec- 3.15pm Jun-Aug) is the park’s highlight. Out- tree-lined Szent István király út. The train
serving sizable pizzas at bargain prices. skemét KK train station, south of the city side, you may come across a couple of noble station (Mártírok tere) is to the northeast,
Market (Jókai utca) Kecskemét’s large mar- centre, up to three times daily for Kiskőrös Nonius steeds being made to perform tricks a 20-minute walk from Szentháromság tér
ket, with both a covered and an open-air (544Ft, three hours, 55km). Transfer there that most dogs would be disinclined to do, along Kossuth Lajos utca.
section, is located north of Szabadság tér for Kalocsa (1420Ft, 2¾ hours, 130km). but the real reason for coming is to see Kávészü Net (Városház utca 1; per hr 240Ft; h10am-
behind the Piarist church. Kecskemét KK is also the station from the csikósok (cowboys) crack their whips, 10pm) Internet access.
Like so many Hungarian towns, Kec- which trains leave for Bugac for Kiskunság race one another bareback and ride ‘five- Korona Tours (%561 201; Szentháromság tér 4;
skemét has a plethora of ‘Wild West’ themed National Park. in-hand’. This is a breathtaking perform- h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) This office in hotel Kalocsa is the
pubs. One convivial example is Country Pub ance in which one csikós gallops five horses only source of information in town.
(Lestár tér 1), west of the József Katona Theatre. Getting Around around the field at full tilt, while standing OTP bank (Szent István király út 43-45)
Buses 1, 5 and 15 link the bus and train on the backs of the last two. Post office (Szent István király út 44) Along the main street.
Entertainment stations with the local bus terminus behind Sleeping and eating is centred around
Kecskemét is a city of music and theatre. the Aranyhomok hotel and buses 2 and Bugaci Karikás Csárda (%575 112; Nagybugac 135; Sights
Ferenc Erdei Cultural Centre (%503 880; Deák 2/a connect Kecskemét KK station and the mains 1500Ft) at the entrance to the park. It’s KALOCSA CATHEDRAL
Ferenc tér 1) This centre, which sponsors some centre. For the pools and camping ground overly kitsch (and the decaying bulls head Almost everything of interest in Kalocsa is
events, is a good source of information and bus 22 is the best, while bus 13 serves the inside the door is a little off-putting) but the on or near Szent István király út, beginning
should be the first place you head to. Oth- flea market. food is hearty and the accompanying folk- at Szentháromság tér, where the Trinity Col-
erwise pick up a free copy of biweekly Kec- Taxis (%480 762) can also be ordered. music ensemble will get your foot tapping. umn (1786) is corroding into sand. Kalocsa
skeméti Est for more information on clubs, Next door, Bugac Tours (%575 122; camp sites per Cathedral (%462 641; admission free), the fourth
films, events and parties. KISKUNSÁG NATIONAL PARK person 800Ft, bungalows per person 4500Ft; p) has a church to stand on the site, was completed
József Katona Theatre (Katona József tér 5; ticket %76 basic camp site and rustic bungalows. in 1754 by András Mayerhoffer and is a
office %483 283; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri) A Kiskunság National Park (adult/child including mu- The bus (423Ft, one hour, 35km) is your baroque masterpiece, with a dazzling pink-
19th-century theatre that stages dramatic seum & horse show 1100/550Ft) consists of half a best option for getting from Kecskemét and-gold interior full of stucco, reliefs and
works, as well as operettas and concerts by dozen ‘islands’ of land totalling more than to the park; the 11am departure will tracery. Some believe that the sepulchre
the Kecskemét Symphony Orchestra; check 760 sq km. Much of the park’s alkaline plonk you at the entrance around noon. in the crypt is that of the first archbishop
with the ticket office for details. ponds, dunes and grassy ‘deserts’ are off- The return journey leaves at 4pm Monday of Kalocsa, Asztrik, who brought King
Bols Music Café (Kisfaludy utca 4; h11am-11pm) limits to casual visitors, but you can get a to Friday and 6.25pm on Saturday and Sun- Stephen the gift of a crown from Pope Syl-
is a convenient drinking spot before mov- close look at this environmentally fragile day (a change at Jakabszállás is required vester II, thereby legitimising the Christian
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
ing on to the underground Xtreme Music Club area – and see the famous horse herds go on weekends), but a better (and more fun) convert’s control over Hungary. A plaque
(h10pm-4am) next door. through their paces – at Bugac on a sandy option on weekends is the narrow-gauge on the south side outside memorialises this
steppe 30km southwest of Kecskemét. train (326Ft) between the two centres. event. Franz Liszt was the first to play the
Getting There & Away The best source of information on at- It leaves Bugac-felső station (a 15-minute cathedral’s magnificent 3560-pipe organ.
BUS tractions at the park, transport possibili- walk south of the park entrance) at 5.34pm, The Cathedral Treasury (Főszékesegyházi kinc-
Kecskemét is well served by buses, with ties and the park in general is Bugac Tours arriving at Kecskemét KK train station stár; % 462 641; Hunyadi János utca 2; adult/child
frequent departures for the most far-flung (%372 827; bugactours.kft@axelero.hu; Szabadság tér 4/a, around 6.50pm. The train from Kecskemét 400/200Ft; h9am-5pm May-Oct), just east of the
KALOCSA ὈὈ
ὈὈ
248 G R E AT P L A I N • • S o u t h e r n P l a i n
4
jos
u
0
0
www.lonelyplanet.com
300 m
0.2 miles
www.lonelyplanet.com
(Continued from page 248)

G R E AT P L A I N • • S o u t h e r n P l a i n 257
Eating & Drinking

Trófea (%467 604; Sörház utca; mains 1000Ft) This
Érs
A B C D
ὈὈ
La To House of today’s flower and paprika motifs twee and traditional Hungarian restaurant, on the
ek
Asztrik th
ssu
ke
tér Ko Folk Arts (1km);
rt
Foktªi
út 12 EATING even garish; compare the new work with that banks of the Vajas stream or Vajas-fok, has
u
7 5 Train Station (2km)
Market.............................................15 C2
Szentháromság 17 H
Pe
tªf
Trófea...............................................16 B1 in the museums and see what you think. a peaceful ambience and serves hearty gou-
tér un iS
1
13 19 ya
di
án
do DRINKING
An exhibition of the futuristic work of the lash and the like; insect repellent is manda-
10 ru
rhá
zu
Já
no
su
Barokk..............................................17 B1 Paris-based artist Nicholas Schöffer, who was tory for the terrace in summer.
Sö Club No 502 S&M...........................18 D3
from Kalocsa, can be seen at the Schöffer Col- Kalocsa (%561 200; Szentháromság tér 4; mains
yu
6 yán ENTERTAINMENT lection (%462 253; Szent István király út 76; adult/child 1500Ft) In the hotel of the same name, Ka-
ὈὈ
tth Kalocsa Cultural & Youth Centre.......19 B1
16 Ba 300/150Ft; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun). The col- locsa is the town’s upmarket option, with
u
ás
Sz
su
To
Alk
lection would be more impressive if it was Hungarian specialities and a fine selection
en
TRANSPORT
Ta
ká
tI
otm
un
or
ze
8 Bus Station.......................................20 D3
stv
cleaned more often, but you can see some of of vegetarian dishes.
iP
M Es u
án
ány
ös
ál
tv
kir
u
u
Eö his work near the bus station; his kinematic Aunt Judy’s Csárda (Juca Néni Csárdája; %461 469;
ály
sef
u
Pe
tila
tªf
óz
út
At
iS
Hí
zJ
án
light tower Chronos 8 (1982) is a Meccano-set mains 700-1500Ft) If you happen to be head-
d
ós
ef
do
u
Gr
u Józs
INFORMATION u ru
2 z
creation of steel beams and spinning reflect- ing for the Danube ferry crossing over to
Kávészü Net.......................................1 C2 há
os
Va
Korona Tours.................................(see 13) r
re
Vá 14
ing mirrors that two decades ago was sup- Gerjen southwest of Kalocsa, call in at this
ja
Hu
nd
sS
OTP Bank...........................................2 C2 1 ny
yE
2 3
tre
Post Office.........................................3 D2 Búzapiac

ad
posed to portend the art of the new century. traditional/touristy place for a taste of a
Ad
am
iJ
tér án
To
os
rural tavern from early last century.
Ar
m
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 15 u
or
an
Rá
Festivals & Events
iP
y
Archbishop's Palace............................4 B1 Kalocsa’s market (Búzapiac tér) has a lot more
kó
Já
ál
cz
no
u
Cathedral Treasury Entrance...............5 B1
iF
su
The International Danube Folklore Festival is than just grain.
z
er
kö
Sz
City Gallery.........................................6 C1
en
en
u
vig
cu
dre
held in mid-July, and the Kalocsa Paprika This may be a garrison town, but the bar
tI
Episcopal Library..............................(see 4)
Fil
n
yE
stv
18
Kalocsa Cathedral...............................7 B1 Ad
án
Days in September celebrate the harvest of scene is pretty dire. Barokk (Kossuth Lajos utca),
kir
Károly Viski Museum..........................8 C2 u u
ika 11 m
ály
pr dele
Kinematic Light Tower Chronos 8......9 D3
feje the town’s ‘red gold’. a café opposite the cathedral, attracts many
út
Pa d
To
Paprika Museum...............................10 B1 rpá
Rá
3
m
Á
locals with its location and relaxed atmos-
kó
or
Schöffer Collection...........................11 D3
i
iP
út eny
cz
Sleeping
iF
ál
Trinity Column..................................12 B1
phere. Club No 502 S&M (Szent István király út 64) is
h
éc
er
Sz
en
cu
SLEEPING Dam Kalocsa is lacking in quality sleeping options, a more boisterous option for those looking
M
jan 51
ich
isk
Kalocsa.............................................13 B1 To Aunt Judy's
Ju 9 so you might be inclined to visit the town as to have more than their fair share.
ei
út
u
Pirosarany........................................14 C2 Csárda (5km);
ai
ty
Baja (45km) 20
a day-trip. Private rooms are quite rare; try
Bá
your luck along Kossuth Lajos utca. Entertainment
cathedral across Kossuth Lajos utca, is a MUSEUMS Kalocsa (%561 200; www.hotelkalocsa.hu; Szenthá- Kalocsa Cultural & Youth Centre (%462 200; Szent
trove of gold and bejewelled objects and The Károly Viski Museum (%462 351; Szent István romság tér 4; s/d €40/60; p) This hotel, housed in István király út 2-4) This centre is housed in an
vestments. In case you were wondering, the király út 25; adult/child 350/200Ft; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun beautifully restored episcopal offices built in 18th-century baroque seminary; inquire
large bust of St Stephen was cast for the mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sat mid-Mar–mid-May 1780, is the best in town. At the time of writ- about any concerts scheduled in the Great
Millenary Exhibition in 1896 and contains & mid-Sep–Oct) is rich in folklore and art, and ing, it was undergoing major renovations. Hall (Nagy Terem) of the Archbishop’s Pal-
48kg of silver and 2kg of gold. Among the highlights the life and ways of the Swabian Pirosarany (%462 220; Szent István király út 37; ace or the cathedral.
other valuable objects is a 16th-century (Sváb), Slovak (Tót), Serbian (Rác) and r from 5400Ft) This dusky-pink hotel is an
reliquary of St Anne and a gold and crystal Hungarian peoples of the area. It’s surpris- option if Kalocsa is full or too expensive; Getting There & Away
baroque monstrance. ing to see how colourful interiors of peasant rooms are spartan but adequate. There are very frequent buses to/from
houses became as wealth increased; walls, Budapest (1450Ft, 2½ hours, 120km), Baja
ARCHBISHOP’S PALACE furniture, doors – virtually nothing was (544Ft, one hour, 45km) and Solt (425Ft,
The Great Hall and the chapel of the left undecorated by the famous ‘painting RED GOLD 45 minutes, 35km), a horse-breeding centre
Archbishop’s Palace (Érseki palota; % 462 166; women’ of Kalocsa. The museum also has a Along with Szeged, Kalocsa is the largest with many riding and carriage-driving op-
Szentháromság tér 1) (1766) contain magnifi- large collection of coins dating from Roman producer of paprika, the piros arany (‘red portunities. There are also buses to Szeged
cent frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbert- times to today. The City Gallery (Városi Képtár; gold’) so important to Hungarian cuisine. (1450Ft, three hours, 115km, four daily),
sch, but you won’t get to see these unless Szent István király út 12-14; admission free; h10am-5pm You can learn all about its development Kecskemét (1450Ft, 2½ hours, 115km, three
there’s a concert on. The Episcopal Library Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) is diagonally opposite. (it was first mentioned in documents way daily) and Székesfehérvár (2780Ft, 2¾ hours,
(Érseki könyvtár; adult/child 500/300Ft; h 9am-noon Other places to see examples of wall and back in the 16th century), production and 120km, two daily).
& 2-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct), however, is open to furniture painting include the House of Folk beneficial qualities (it’s higher in vitamin C Kalocsa is at the end of a rail spur to
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
visitors and is one of the most impressive Arts (Népmüvészeti tájház; %461 560; Tompa Mihály than citrus fruits) at the Paprika Museum Kiskőrös (346Ft, 50 minutes, 30km, four
in Hungary. It contains more than 100,000 utca 5-7; adult/child 500/300Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun (%461 819; Szent István király út 6; adult/child daily). From Kiskőrös you can make con-
volumes, including 13th-century codices, mid-Apr–mid-Oct) and Aunt Judy’s Csárda (Juca Néni 500/300Ft; h10am-5pm Mar-Nov). If you hap- nections to Budapest (1420Ft, three hours,
a Bible belonging to Martin Luther that Csárdája; %461 469), a touristy restaurant near pen to be in Kalocsa in September, visit any 140km). A very slow (2¼-hour) narrow-
is annotated in the reformer’s hand, illu- the Danube ferry crossing. Some people find of the nearby villages to see the green fields gauge train links Kiskőrös with the smaller
minated manuscripts, and verses cut into transformed into red carpets. of Kecskemét’s two train stations, Kecskemét
palm fronds from Sri Lanka. (Continued on page 257) KK (p246).
ὈὈ
Post office (Oroszlán utca 5) BAJA 0

0
300 m
0.2 miles
HAJÓS CELLARS Tourinform (%420 792; baja@tourinform.hu; Klapk
The village of Hajós, 21km southwest of Szentháromság tér 5; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has an office A a Gyö
rgy u
B C D To Train
y út
Madách Imre u
To Danube Bridge (3km); Kádár u Station
Kalocsa, is – or should be – a magnet for overlooking the main square. (100m)
Györg
Gemenc Forest
wine lovers. Around 1300 wine cellars (Eu- Kö
lcs
ey dka
u Vonat-
kert
ba
Dózsa
rope’s largest concentration) are squashed Sights 1
Fe
ren
cu
Sza
Köztársaság
into its winding streets and alleys, creating The enormous Szentháromság tér, a colourful Kölcs ey Ferenc
u tér
seemingly endless rows of sharply-pointed square of baroque and neoclassical build- i út
ged
Sze
Józs
15
pincék (cellars). Centuries ago, a healthy ings marred only by the multitude of parked Mu 25
ὄὄ
ef A
nká
csy
Swabian population settled the region cars, is dominated on the east side by the
ttila
12 Mih
ály Csermák
city’s town hall and its ‘widow’s walk’ looking
u
and began fermenting and storing wine; u Mihály
tér
the conditions were seemingly perfect for out towards the Danube. Jelky
Tá
Nagy
András INFORMATION
nc
u
such activities and the result is what you South of the town hall stands the István de
sic
sE tér Internet Kávézó..................................1 B3
Telc
s M
Andrá
Deszk
K&H Bank...........................................2 B3
see today. Full-bodied reds are the main- Türr Museum (%324 173; Deák Ferenc utca 1, enter tvá nu OTP Bank...........................................3 B4
Arany
ihály u
Türr Is
su
2
ás u
stay of wine production in the area, and from Roosevelt tér; adult/child 350/250Ft; h10am-4pm Post Office.........................................4 B2
Oro
10
su
ὄὄὈὈὈ
Tourinform.........................................5 B4
János
jo
szlá
the best odds for tastings are over the Wed-Sat mid-Mar–mid-Dec), named after a local
La
h
nu
4
ut
hero who fought in the 1848–49 War of SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
u
summer, when most visitors are expected.
ss
Ko
u 8
Mart
Flea Market........................................6 A3
Árpá
Szentjános lós
Hajós can be reached by four daily buses Independence and alongside Garibaldi in Mik Vörösmarty Franciscan Church..............................7 C3
inovic
Bajcsy tér
du
Szene
-Zsili István Nagy Gallery............................8 C2
from Kalocsa. southern Italy in 1860. The museum’s prime nszk
y End ty
u
s Ign
re u 6 a r István Türr Museum...........................9 B4
su
exhibit, entitled ‘Life on the Danube’, covers To Szentjános sm Serbian Orthodox Church.................10 B2
ác u
Beach (100m) 23 rö
Vö Sports Pool.......................................11 A4
wildlife, fishing methods and boat build- Synagogue........................................12 B1
BAJA
ὈὈὈ
Halász-part Szent Imre
ing. Another deals with the folk groups of Á tér Tóth
Pázmany Péter u
Town Hall........................................13 B4
rp
22 Kálmán
%79 / pop 37,200 Baja and its surrounds: the Magyars, Ger-
á
Sugovica tér 1
Déri Frigyes
d té
R iver 21 18 SLEEPING
3 l u
About 45km south of Kalocsa on the banks mans, South Slavs (Bunyevác, Sokac) and – Pá
r
20 r- Duna................................................14 B4
Péte
Bartók Béla u
József Eötvös College.......................15 C1
of the Danube is Baja, a town best known surprisingly for Hungary – Roma; all have
u
Eötvös
u
Kolibri..............................................16 C4
tván
as a holiday and sports centre. It’s a per- lived together in this region for several cen- 19
Petªfi
2
Széch
enyi
Is Sugovica..........................................17 A4
fect place to wind down during summer; turies. The rarely seen Roma woodcarving is Bridge Déry-
sétány
EATING
kert
beaches and flood-bank forests abound, superb, and don’t miss the exquisite South y
7 Pizzeria La Piovra..............................18 B3
Véndió.............................................19 A3
étán Szentháromság
and the city itself strikes a nice balance be- Slav black lace, the gold work for which Baja Március 15 s tér 13 Deák Ferenc u
Szent A
tween repose and activity. It’s also famous was once nationally famous, or the weavings To Vizafogó
(300m) 3 9
DRINKING
Calypso Drink Bar.............................20 B3
for its fish soup, a local concoction of carp, from Nagybaracska to the south. 11 Riverside Pub...................................21 A3
Szabadsá
5
ntal u
Roosevelt Serrano Saloon.................................22 A3
pike-perch, catfish and the ubiquitous pa- The István Nagy Gallery (%325 649; Arany Petöfi
Island
14 tér
su
4 16 ny Lajo
prika spice. János utca 1; adult/child 350/250Ft; h10am-4pm Wed- Batthyány Lajos u Batthyá ENTERTAINMENT
g út
Babit
24 József Attila Cultural Centre.............23 A3
Sat mid-Mar–mid-Dec), built in 1820, was once
Parti u
17
s Mih
Old Serbian Church..........................24 B4
Attila u
Orientation the mansion of the Vojnich family and an
ály u
TRANSPORT
Vörösmarty utca and the pedestrian-only artists’ colony after WWII. It is named after To Nagy Pandúr Bus Station.......................................25 D1
Eötvös utca connect Baja’s three main the leading painter of what is known as the Island (2km)
squares: Vörösmarty tér, Szent Imre tér and Alföld School. Other members are featured,
Szentháromság tér. The last one lies on the including Gyula Rudnay, as well as ‘out- the victims of fascism. Above the columns Activities
Kamarás-Duna (or Sugovica as it is known siders’ such as the cubist Béla Kádár and on the synagogue’s tympanum (the façade The Sugovica (%321 755; Petöfi-Sziget 32) resort
locally), a branch of the Danube River that sculptor Ferenc Medgyessy. below the roof) on the west side, the Hebrew on Petőfi Island has fishing, boating, mini-
cuts Petőfi and Nagy Pandúr Islands off Buildings of architectural note include inscription reads: ‘This is none other than golf and tennis for those willing to pay, and
from the mainland before emptying into the Franciscan church (Ferences templom; Bartók Béla the house of God and the gate to heaven’. there’s a covered pool – the Sports Pool (%326
the main river downstream. The bus sta- utca; admission free) behind the town hall, which The tabernacle inside, with its Corinthian 773; adult/child 450/300Ft; h7am-7pm Thu-Tue) – across
tion (Csermák Mihály tér) is northeast of was built in 1728 and has a fantastic ba- pilasters, is topped with two lions holding a the walkway on Petőfi Bridge (Petőfi hid).
the centre; the train station is a few min- roque organ; and the late baroque Serbian crown while four doves pull back a blue and Avoid the public beaches on Petőfi Island
utes to the north across Vonat kert (Train Orthodox church (%423 199; Táncsics Mihály utca 21; burgundy curtain. Now a public library, it in favour of the less crowded ones on the
Garden). admission free; h9am-noon Wed & Thu) in a quiet holds a massive 180,000 volumes, including mainland in Szentjános, east of Halász-part,
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
square. The iconostasis is definitely worth a first full edition of the 18th-century French or on Nagy Pandúr Island. But be prepared
Information a detour. Diderot & D’Alembert’s Encyclopaedia. to swim to the latter or face a long walk to
Internet Kávézó (Tóth Kálmán tér 7; per hr 500Ft; However, the neoclassical synagogue (%322 One of the liveliest flea markets in Hun- the southern suburb of Homokváros, across
hnoon-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) 741; Munkácsy Mihály utca 7-9; admission free; h1-6pm gary, full of Serbs, Romanians and Hun- the bridge to Nagy Pandúr Island and then
K&H bank (Szentháromság tér 10) With a currency- Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri, 8am-noon Sat), from 1845, garians from Transylvania, takes place on north to the beach.
exchange machine and ATM. beats them both. On the right as you enter Wednesdays and Saturdays north of Árpád The Gemenc Forest, bordering the west side
OTP bank (cnr Szentháromság tér & Deák Ferenc utca) the gate, you’ll pass a sheltered memorial to tér, just beyond the bridge to Petőfi Island. of the Danube, is a unique reserve famed
for its incredible beauty and narrow-gauge Véndió (%326 585; Martinovics utca 8/b; mains abound year-round, and architectural de- walking distance via pedestrian-only Mik-
train trips; a good way to see it up close is from 800Ft) Véndió’s reputation for consist- lights are scattered throughout its surpris- száth Kálmán utca.
via a boat and rail trip (%425 356; per person 2700- ent quality and an excellent location down ingly pretty centre. If this isn’t enough then
3300Ft; h9.45am Wed, Sat & Sun Jul-Aug, 9.45am Sat by the water keeps diners coming back for perhaps the city’s famed edibles will win Information
May-Oct) available through Tourinform (%420 more. If the waiters moved faster than sloths, you over: Szeged paprika, which combines Cyber Arena (Deák Ferenc 26; per hr 360Ft; h24hr)
792; Szentháromság tér 5). For more information it would be a top-class restaurant all-round. so well with fish from the Tisza River in Also has cheap Internet calls.
on the forest see p283. Pizzeria La Piovra (Halász-part; pizzas from 800Ft) szegedi halászlé (spicy fish soup), and Pick, Libri (%541 126; Jókai utca; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri,
Squeezed in among a line of bars is this Hungary’s finest salami. 9am-2pm Sat) Small foreign-language section that’s big on
Festivals & Events simple pizzeria, with unexceptional if not Hungarian writers, historians and famous figures.
The big event of the year is the Baja Folk Fes- filling pizzas. The view makes up for any History Main hospital (%484 184; Kossuth Lajos Sugárút 42)
tival held on the second Saturday in July. It’s shortcomings the pizzas may have Remnants of the Körös culture suggest that Main post office (Széchenyi tér 1)
more a celebration of the town’s famous fish There’s a stretch of lively but nondescript these goddess-worshipping people lived in Map shop (%424 667; Attila utca 9) An excellent source
soup; 2000 stew pots of the stuff (a Guinness pubs and bars facing the water at Halász- the Szeged area 4000 or 5000 years ago, and of maps, not only for Hungary but the world.
record) are served on the day. part, including the Calypso Drink Bar, the one of the earliest Magyar settlements in Tourinform (%488 699; szeged@tourinform.hu;
Riverside Pub and the Serrano Saloon. Hungary was at Ópusztaszer to the north. Dugonics tér 2; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Sleeping By the 13th century, the city was an im- Tucked away in a quiet courtyard.
Vizafogó (%326 585; vizafogo@citromail.hu; Petöfi- Entertainment portant trading centre, helped along by the Tourinform Booth (Széchenyi tér; h9am-9pm May-
Sziget 27; s/d 5000/6000Ft; p) Vizafogó occupies József Attila Cultural Centre (%326 633; Árpád tér 1) royal monopoly it held on the salt being Sep) A separate pavilion.
a quiet spot on Petőfi Island, across from This is your source for information about shipped in via the Maros River from Tran- www.szegedportal.hu Not the city’s official site, but
the popular mainland beaches. Rooms are what’s going on in Baja. Ask about concerts sylvania. Under the Turks, Szeged was af- loaded with useful information and in English.
fitted with modern furnishings and come in the old Serbian church (now a music forded some protection since the sultan’s
with balconies overlooking the Sugovica school and hall) on Batthyány utca. estates lay in the area, and it continued to Sights
River. prosper in the 18th and 19th centuries as a CITY CENTRE
Duna (%323 224; www.hotelduna.hu in Hungar- Getting There & Away royal free town. Begin an easy walking tour of Szeged in
ian; Szentháromság tér 6; s/d from 4700/5500Ft; ps) BUS The watery fingers of the Tisza almost Széchenyi tér, a square so large it’s a park.
This is a wonderful old place right by the Buses to Kalocsa (544Ft, one hour, 45km) wiped Szeged off the map in 1879 (see boxed The neobaroque town hall, with its graceful
Danube, where rooms either overlook the and Szeged (1330Ft, 2½ hours, 105km) de- text, p263) but the town bounced back tower and colourful tiled roof, dominates
Sugovica or Szentháromság tér. It may not part at least once an hour; there are five with a vengeance and an eye for uniform the square, while statues of Lajos Tisza,
look like much from the outside but the to 10 daily departures to Mohács (605Ft, architecture. Since WWII, Szeged has been István Széchenyi and the kubikosok (nav-
hotel has recently undergone some renova- 1¼ hours, 50km), Szekszárd (544Ft, one an important university town – students vies) who helped regulate the Tisza River
tions, including the installation of an indoor hour, 40km), Kecskemét (1330Ft, 2½ hours, marched here in 1956 before their class- take pride of place under the chestnut trees.
pool and wellness centre. 110km) and Budapest (2060Ft, 3¾ hours, mates in Budapest (see p32) did – and a Take a quick detour north of the square
Sugovica (%321 755; www.hotelsugovica.hu; Petöfi- 160km) as well. cultural centre. to the Gróf Palace (Arany Jáns utca), a fantastical
Sziget 32; s/d from 6000/7500Ft, camp sites per person/ office building completed in 1913 in Seces-
tent/car from 440/590/300Ft, bungalows 3900-16,500Ft; TRAIN Orientation sionist style.
camping hMay-Aug; ps) Sugovica was once The train line here links Bátaszék and The Tisza River, joined by the Maros, flows Pedestrian Kárász utca leads south
Baja’s prime hotel, but its standards have Kiskunhalas; you must change at the former west and then turns abruptly south through through Klauzál tér. Turn west on Kölcsey
fallen somewhat. Rooms are still spotless for Budapest (2030Ft, four hours, 190km), the centre of Szeged, splitting the city in utca and walk for about 100m to the Reök Pal-
and spacious, but dated, while its camp site Szekszárd (346Ft, one hour, 40km), Pécs two as cleanly as the Danube bisects Buda- ace (Reök-palota; Tisza Lajos körút), a mind-blowing
is secluded and shady. Some bungalows can (1624Ft, 2¾ hours, 150km) and other points pest. But comparison of the two cities and green and lilac Art Nouveau structure built
sleep up to five. in Southern Transdanubia. From Kiskunha- their rivers stops there. The Tisza is a rather in 1907 that looks like an aquarium decor-
Also recommended: las, it’s impossible to get anywhere of import- undignified muddy channel here, and the ation. Sadly, it’s been left to the elements
Kolibri (%321 628; Batthyány utca 18; p) Undergoing ance without at least another change (the other side of Szeged is not the city’s throb- and is coming off second-best.
a complete renovation at the time of research, Kolibri should one exception is the fast train to Budapest). bing commercial heart as Pest is to Budapest Further south, Kárász utca meets Dugon-
be a thoroughly modern pension at a reasonable price. but a large park given over to sunbathing, ics tér, site of the Attila József Science University
József Eötvös College (%321 655; Szegedi út; s/d SZEGED swimming and other hedonistic pursuits. (abbreviated JATE in Hungarian), named
2000/4000Ft; hJul-Aug; p) Near the bus station, with %62 / pop 156,400 Szeged’s many squares and inner and after its most famous alumnus. József
basic and clean student accommodation. Szeged – a corruption of the Hungarian outer ring roads make the city confusing (1905–37), a much loved poet, was actu-
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
word sziget, or ‘island’ – is the largest and for some, but virtually every square in the ally expelled from here in 1924 for writ-
Eating & Drinking most important city on the Southern Plain, city has a large signpost with detailed plans ing the verse ‘I have no father and I have
Vizafogó (%326 585; Petöfi-Sziget 27; mains 750- yet tourist-wise it would rank among Hun- and a legend in several languages. The no mother/I have no God and I have no
1400Ft) At the pension of the same name, this gary’s most under-rated. This is a crying main train station (Indóház tér) is south country’ during the ultraconservative rule
is a fine destination for Baja’s famous fish shame, because it has so much to offer the of the city centre; tram 1 connects the sta- of Admiral Miklós Horthy. A music fountain
soup while eyeing the river for more delect- traveller. Theatre, opera and all types of tion with the town. The bus station (Mars in the square plays at irregular intervals
able morsels. classical and popular music performances tér), to the west of the centre, is within easy throughout the day.
From the southeast corner of Dugonics (replaced with some ‘nice’ but amateurish during the annual summer festival. The FERENC MÓRA MUSEUM
tér, walk along Jókai utca into Aradi vér- ones), but the brutish sculptures are still a National Pantheon – statues and reliefs of Oskola utca, one of the city’s oldest streets,
tanúk tere. Heroes’ Gate (Hősök kapuja) to sight to behold. 80 notables running along an arcade around leads from Dóm tér to Roosevelt tér and
the south was erected in 1936 in honour three sides of the square – is a crash course the Palace of Education (1896) at No 1-3,
of Horthy’s White Guards, who were re- DÓM TÉR in Hungarian art, literature, culture and his- which now houses the Ferenc Móra Museum
sponsible for ‘cleansing’ the nation of ‘Reds’ Dóm tér, a few paces northeast of Heroes’ tory. Even the Scotsman Adam Clark, who (%549 040; Várkert; adult/child 400/250Ft; h10am-5pm
after the ill-fated Republic of Councils in Gate, contains Szeged’s most important supervised the building of Budapest’s Chain Tue-Sun). The museum’s strength lies in its col-
1919. The fascistic murals have disappeared monuments and is the centre of events Bridge, wins accolades, but you’ll look for- ourful collection of folk art from Csongrád
ever for any sign of a woman. County, bearing intelligent descriptions in
SZEGED 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
The Romanesque Demetrius Tower (Dömötör- several languages. The unique exhibit of 7th-
Brüsszeli krt
torony; 600Ft; h9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, noon-5pm Thu, century Avar finds of gold work and other
A Zá B i krt C D
ká Berlin 9am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun), the city’s oldest struc- art pieces showcases the sophistication and
Csongrádi sugárút
ny
au
Ko Róm
ri u
u
ss
ture, is all that remains of a church erected art appreciation of these often forgotten
irt
ut ai k
cs
Lengyel u rt
tasze
h
krt
Pa
La M
To Main
jo
ss ad
riz
si Sz here in the 12th century. In its place stands people while another room is given over to
gárút
ác ¬c
Pusz
ug h u Pá
la u
Hospital (200m); su
u
1
ár
út 43 the twin-towered Votive Church (Fogadalmi an even more obscure group, the Sarma-
sz
Sziksósfürdª, Soda Sz
Gyu
Attila su
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
dá
Salt Lake, Sziksós ap Osztrovszky u

pa
templom; %429 379; 400Ft, Sunday free, crypt 150Ft; tians. Originating in present-day Iran, these
Va
Camping & Naturista no
ász
Camping (10km) su Szent
nics u
h9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, noon-5pm Thu, 9am-5pm people moved to the plain as allies of the
Juh
iu
István tér
József
u
gy
35
sef
ilá
Ko
Sat, 1-5pm Sun), a disproportionate brown brick Romans; construction of the new M5 motor-
Dugo
Mars
Sz
ssu
Józ
tér 48
u
th
u
ai
monstrosity that was pledged after the flood way has unearthed a 1st-century village,
ros
La Sóho
csk
ra
Mé jos rdó u
ros
Vid
Bo
u
Bo
rey su Ma
u gá but not completed until 1930. The interior along with pottery, jewellery and graves.
Dr
rú
rt
34 t Tisza Lajos krt To Kiskªrösy

ik
Mik 16
szá Vö 28 art (3km) borders on gaudy but it’s still an impressive
on
45
th rö 12 za-p
Ar ª Tis
nd
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ká sm an Fels achievement; the huge nave and gigantic SYNAGOGUES
u
lm art 17
Lo
án yJ
ök
Att u yu á
Horváth M u nos
u
sp
ila u 49
organ (11,500 pipes in all) dominate the For many people, Szeged’s most compelling
zsa
Pü
u u i a
37 án
u
Ha
Dó
2 ef entire scene. The nearby Serbian Orthodox sight is the Hungarian Art Nouveau New
enc
jnó 5 St
krt
Gu czy 44
ten
Fer
jos
ber u
g u 23 church (%325 278; adult/child 150/100Ft), dating Synagogue (Új zsinagóga; %423 849; Gutenberg utca
La
ák
Széchenyi We er
zló
za
De
14
Na31 tér ss 46 29 from 1778, is far more rewarding. Take a 13; adult/child 250/100Ft; h10am-noon & 1-5pm Sun-
v
Lás
elé
Tis
15
Ri
Go gy ny
gol J én 7 iu Várkert
peek inside at the fantastic iconostasis: a Fri Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm Sun-Fri Oct-Mar), which was
en
u
za
ªu 30
lem
Vá
Tis
u
ru 32
central gold ‘tree’, with 60 icons hanging designed by Lipót Baumhorn in 1903. It is
u
Klauzál
Ke
i krt
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
4
ὈὈ
ia
Péc
sas
fán
Kölc tér 1
ska
London
sey 11
39 Vic from its ‘branches’. You’ll find the key at the most beautiful Jewish house of worship
Ste
ete
zu
u tor 18
iu
Híd
Fek
rás
Kálvária Hu
2 go u Somogyi utca 3 (flat I/5). Back on Dóm tér, in Hungary and still very much in use. If
Ká
sugárú u Inn r
t er T so ert
u
rkp
19 43 Roosevelt (Be Brid own i Alb duck into the Dóm Museum (Dóm tér 5; adult/child the grace and enormous size of the exter-
tª
6 26
O
rgy
Zrínyi u
ikö
lvá ge
ro
tér
ö
ros
sz
t-Gy
ép K
21 i híd
60/30Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) and pick through ior don’t impress you, the blue-and-gold
s
lán
Jósika u
38
Mátyá
Dugonics Som )
u
og
Szen
Köz
3 tér yi u
8 25
40 22 the small collection of monstrances, crosses interior will. The cupola, decorated with
iu
33
Huszár
42 36
u
sor and goblets from across the plains. stars and flowers (representing Infinity
Told
Beaches
Népkert
kola
ὈὈ
kötª so
Eöt 41 20
Árpád v
u ös
Os
10 Torontál
tér
Moszk
24 tér
Zrínyi u
t
Tisza
Jók
rú Fª
Alsó Ki
faso
gá
ai u
su La 3 9 r
THE FLOODING TISZA
vai krt
d or Vi jos 27 Dóm
47
Népliget
su
án té kr New Szeged
zu t
Sz
S Aradi tér To Ottó

fi
Vedre
ék
ö (Újszeged) Hermann Snaking its way some 800km across the Great Plain is the Tisza, Hungary’s second-longest river.
et
el
5 P vértanúk
y
tere College
so
(450m) Once described by Daniel Defoe as ‘three parts water and two parts fish’, this wonderful natural
r
Ba 13 To Újszeged
To Flea tth Train Station (700m)
Market
yá
ny resource has a habit of flooding on an all-too-regular basis, despite the government’s best efforts
(750m) u INFORMATION Reök Palace...................19 B3 Nonstop Shop................36 B3 to keep it from breaching its banks.
Cs
an
Cyber Arena....................1 C3 Serbian Orthodox Numero Uno Pizza.........37 C2

4
ád
The first major flood to wash through Szeged occurred in the spring of 1838, destroying thou-
Bec
Festival Ticket Office........2 B3 Church......................20 C3 Régi Hídhoz...................38 C3

iu
si
Libri.................................3 B3 Synagogue.....................21 B3 Virág.............................39 B3 sands of houses, but worse was yet to come; in March 1879 the river burst its banks again, this
út
kr
is u
t
Main Post Office..............4 B2 Thermal Spa.................. 22 D3 Zodiákus........................40 B3

g
sá
lwe
Map Shop........................5 B2 Town Hall......................23 B2 time leaving only 300 houses, out of an estimated 6300, standing. Flood protection was quickly
om
me
ár
Tourinform......................6 B3 Votive Church................24 B3 DRINKING

built, and things went swimmingly (at least flood damage was kept to a minimum) for almost a
th
Sem
en
Tourinform Booth............7 B2 Beer Stand.....................41 B3

Sz
SLEEPING JATE Klub Bar................42 B3 hundred years until May 1970 when the river reached its highest recorded level and gave the city
Sziv SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dóm Hotel.....................25 B3 ri
John Bull Pub.................
árv vá t 43 B3 another bath. A string of floods hit the city around the millennium – in March 1999, April 2000
án Attila József Science Forrás............................26 D3 es kr
yu T em
University.....................8 B3 István Apáthy College....27 B3 ENTERTAINMENT and March 2001 – and even as recently as 2005, restaurants, camping grounds and swimming
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Demetrius Tower.............9 B3 Novotel Szeged.............28 C2 Bartók Béla Cultural
Dóm Museum................10 B3 Partfürdª.......................29 D2 Újszeged
Centre....................... 44 C2 pools along the river were closed due to flood damage.
Ga Ferenc Móra Museum...11 C3 Tisza..............................30 C2 JATE Klub....................(see 42) Upgrade work on flood-control barriers has been underway over the past few decades, and
Sze lam
nt F bu
5 ere Gróf Palace....................12 C2 Sing Sing....................... 45 A2
nc
u Heroes' Gate..................13 B4 EATING Szeged National Theatre..46 C2 currently about 60% are complete. All the human endeavour in the world will probably never
New Synagogue............14 A2 Botond...........................31 B2 SZOTE Club................... 47 C3 stop the Tisza washing over its banks, but at least the current efforts will minimise the risks.
Bo
Old Synagogue............. 15 A2 Grand Café....................32 C2
rbá
su Pick & Paprika Museum..16 D2 Halászcsárda..................33 C3 TRANSPORT Of course the best solution would be to move to higher ground, but that’s not much of an
Gªz
u Public Baths...................17 B2 Market..........................34 A2 Bus Station.....................48 A1 option on the Great Plain…
Train Public Swimming Pools..18 D3 Market...........................35 B1 Mahart Ferry Pier.......... 49 D2
Station
and Faith), appears to float skyward, and the festival ticket office (%554 713; ticket@szinhaz facilities (which include thermal treatments CAFÉS
the tabernacle of carved acacia wood and .szeged.hu; Kelemen utca 7; h1-5pm Mon, 10am-5pm and massages) and large rooms are in good Grand Café (%420 578; Deák Ferenc utca 18; h3pm-
metal fittings is a masterpiece. There are a Tue-Fri, 10am-noon Sat). But Szeged isn’t all high- nick and the staff are professional and midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat & Sun) For coffee,
few other buildings of interest in this area, brow; others might prefer the annual Beer helpful. Bike rental is available for 200Ft cake and a bit of peace and quiet (except
the former Jewish quarter, including the Festival at the beginning of June or the one- per hour. when it’s hosting film nights), head to this
neoclassical Old Synagogue (Ózsinagóga; Hajnóczy week Wine Festival at the end of May. light-hearted café on the 2nd floor of an
utca 12), built in 1843, and just south of TOP END office block.
Széchenyi tér, the remains of another old Sleeping Dóm Hotel (%423 750; www.domhotel.hu; Bajza utca Virág (%541 360; Klauzál tér 1; h8am-10pm) A
synagogue (Nádor utca 3), now a private house. BUDGET 6; s/d 12,600/15,200Ft; pia) This small and café since 1922, Virág serves possibly the best
Szeged’s pension situation is surprisingly modern hotel is in the heart of the city. ice cream in town, and its cakes aren’t bad
OTHER SIGHTS poor; there are plenty around but none truly Sizable rooms are contemporarily styled in either. Take a seat in its traditional booths
If you’d like to know more about the mak- stand out. Most are either concentrated pastel hues and there’s a sauna (800Ft) for outside on large Klauzál tér, or directly op-
ing of Szeged’s famed salami – from hoof northwest of town near the bus station or to guest use. posite in its modern counterpart, Kis Virág.
to shrink-wrap – the Pick & Paprika Mu- the west of the train station. Tourinform can Novotel Szeged (%562 200; h2996@accor.com;
seum (%20-980 8000; Felső Tisza-part 10; adult/child supply you with a comprehensive list, and Maros utca 1; s/d €80/90; pai) This is a mod- SELF-CATERING
320/240Ft; h3-6pm Tue-Sat) can oblige, and if can also organise private rooms (3000Ft). ern 136-room hotel near a noisy stretch of Szeged has two big fruit & vegetable markets,
that doesn’t satisfy your taste buds, there’s István Apáthy College (% 545 896; Eötvös road but with good views of the river, and one on Mars tér, site of the notorious Star
plenty of paprika to burn them into submis- utca 4; r 5000Ft) Plenty of student dormitories rooms with all the trimmings. Prison for political prisoners early in the
sion. Pick salami can be purchased from the in Szeged open their doors to travellers in 1950s, and the other northwest of Széchenyi
Pick shop next to the museum. July and August, and this college is a run- Eating tér on Szent István tér. There’s also a non-
Szeged’s ramshackle flea market is near down but supremely central option. RESTAURANTS stop shop (Zrínyi utca 1).
Vám tér at the start of Szabadkai út south- Ottó Hermann College (%544 309; Temesvári Halászcsárda (%555 980; Roosevelt tér 14; mains 1500-
west of the centre. körút 52; s/d 2500/5000Ft; p) On a quiet residen- 2000Ft) Halászcsárda is a Szeged institution Drinking
tial street, Ottó Hermann is the best of the that knows how to prepare the best fish There’s a vast array of bars, clubs and other
Activities bunch over in New Szeged. in town, including szegedi halászlé. On hot night spots in this student town, especially
Just north of Széchenyi tér you’ll find the Partfürdő (%430 843, fax 425 559; Közép-kikötő sor; summer days its large terrace near the Tisza between Dugonics tér and Dom tér.
newly renovated public baths (%487 711; Tisza camp sites per adult/child/tent 600/430/600Ft, bungalows is thankfully tree-shaded. JATE Klub bar (Toldy utca 2; hnoon-midnight) A
Lajos körút 24; adult/child 600/450Ft; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 6000Ft) In New Szeged, it was closed at Régi Hídhoz (%420 910; Oskola utca 4; mains 1000Ft) reasonably laid-back spot, attracting stu-
8am-8pm Sat & Sun), with its very own wellness the time of research due to flood damage. Some believe Hídhoz serves comparable dents with its cheap drinks and terrace.
centre. Across the Tisza River, the parkland Fortunately its bungalows escaped the worst fish dishes to its neighbour Halászcsárda, Beer stand (Somogyi utca; hMay-Sep) A very
of New Szeged (Újszeged) has swimming of it. which is saying something. The atmosphere popular spot further east that appeals more
pools as well as beaches along the river, but Sziksós Camping (%463 029; Sziksósi út; camp sites here is, however, more relaxed and family- to city workers.
at the time of research everything was closed per person/tent 1200/200Ft, bungalows from 3800Ft; ps) orientated. John Bull Pub (%484 217; Oroszlán utca 6) This
due to flood damage. The nearby thermal spa Further out in the suburb of Sziksósfürdő is Kiskőrösy (%495 698; Felső Tisza-part 336; mains pub does a grand job of ‘English Pub’ imita-
(%431 133; Fürdő utca 1; adult/child 700/550Ft; h6am- this friendly camping ground, with cabin- 1000-2000Ft) Housed in a traditional fisher- tion (minus the 11 o’clock closing!!), with
8pm) is still open for business however. style bungalows and plenty of shade. man’s cottage on the banks of the Tisza a carpets, proper pints and bar stools. Its gar-
About 10km west of town in the suburb Naturista Camping (% 463 988; Vereshomok few kilometres east of the centre, this excel- den is a welcome respite from the centre.
of Sziksósfürdő is the thermal Soda Salt Lake dűlő 1; camp sites per person/tent/car 300/780/400Ft, bun- lent fish restaurant is an atmospheric place Both Numero Uno (%424 745; Széchenyi tér 5)
(adult/child 600/300Ft; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm galows from 4500Ft; ps) A nudist site, with to dine. Unfortunately it was affected by the and Grand Café (%420 578; Deák Ferenc utca 18) are
Sat & Sun May-Sep). Alongside a conventional simple bungalows and a small lake to splash latest flood, so check with Tourinform on worth stopping in for a drink even if you’re
strand, swimming pool and rowing boats, about in. its opening times. not having a meal.
it also has a nudist beach and camp site. Zodiákus (%420 914; Oskola utca 13; mains 1000-
Tourinform (%488 699; Dugonics tér 2) will rent MIDRANGE 2000Ft) Zodiákus wins over diners with its Entertainment
you bicycles for 900/2500/7000Ft per hour/ Tisza (%478 278; www.tiszahotel.hu; Wesselényi utca 1; unusual astrological theme and interna- Your best sources of entertainment informa-
day/week. s/d from 8900/12,900Ft; p) Built in 1885, Tisza tional menu. tion in this culturally active city are Tour-
is Szeged’s old-world hotel, with chande- Numero Uno Pizza (%424 745; Széchenyi tér 5; inform, the Bartók Béla Cultural Centre (%479
Festivals & Events liers, wrought-iron stair railings, and an pizzas from 390Ft) We can’t guarantee that this 566; Vörösmarty utca 3), or the free biweekly en-
The Szeged Open-Air Festival unfolds on Dóm air of class. Unfortunately rooms don’t simple pizzeria is number one in the city tertainment guide Szegedi Est.
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
tér from mid-July to late August, with the match the extravagance of the rest of the but it’s certainly up there with the best. Szeged National Theatre (Szegedi Nemzeti Színház;
two towers of the Votive Church as a back- hotel but they’re bright and airy and quite Its inner-courtyard garden is also fine for %479 279; Deák Ferenc utca 12-14) Built in 1886, it
drop. The outdoor theatre here seats some comfortable. a quiet drink. has always been the centre of cultural life in
6000 people. Main events include an opera, Forrás (% 430 130; www.hotelforras.szeged.hu; Botond (%420 435; Széchenyi tér 13; mains 1000- Szeged. and usually stages operas and ballet.
an operetta, a play, folk dancing, classical Szent-Györgyi Albert utca 16-24; s/d from €36/49; 2000Ft) Botond serves better-than-average New Synagogue (Új zsinagóga; %423 849; Guten-
music, ballet and a rock opera. Festival pas) In New Szeged, this spa hotel Hungarian food. Its pleasant outside seat- berg utca 13) There are free organ concerts
tickets and information are available from looks rather ugly from the outside but its ing overlooks Széchenyi tér. here from late March to mid-September;
it’s a good chance to take in the splendour on Kossuth Lajos sugárút and goes as far as To the west of the park beside the little 45 minutes, 30km) and Ópusztaszer, the
of the building without having to pay. Izabella Bridge, where it turns around. To lake, a museum reminiscent of a Magyar last leaving for Szeged at 8.30pm.
Sing Sing (%420 314; Mars tér C pavilon; h10am- get to Szentmihály and the flea market, take chieftain’s tent houses a huge panorama
5am Wed & Sat) Sing Sing occupies a huge pa- bus 76 or tram 4. From the main bus station painting entitled The Arrival of the Hungar- HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY
vilion near the bus station and hosts rave catch bus 7/f for Sziksósfürdő and bus 2 for ians. Completed by Árpád Feszty for the %62 / pop 47,900
parties twice a week. student accommodation in New Szeged. Millenary Exhibition in Budapest in 1896, Folk art, particularly pottery, has a rich
JATE Klub (%420 445; Toldy utca 1; h9.30am-4am Local taxis (%444 444, 555 555) can also be the enormous work, which measures 15m tradition in Hódmezővásárhely (Beaver
Mon-Fri, 10am-5am Sat) and SZOTE Club (Dom tér 13; ordered. x 120m, was badly damaged during WWII Meadow Marketplace); some 400 independ-
h10-5am Wed, Fri & Sat) are two student haunts and was restored by a Polish team in time ent artisans working here in the mid-19th
without compare in Szeged; both are fairly ÓPUSZTASZER for the 1100th anniversary of the con- century made it the largest pottery centre in
grungy, host a mix of DJs and live acts, and %62 / pop 2300 quest in 1996. Two galleries (1 gallery adult/child Hungary. Today you won’t see much more
are packed to the gunnels with students. About 28km north of Szeged, the Ópusztaszer 500/300Ft, 2 galleries adult/child 700/600Ft) above the pottery outside the town’s museums than
National Historical Memorial Park (Ópusztaszeri painting are devoted to art and history of you would elsewhere, but the influence of
Getting There & Away Nemzeti Történeti Emlékpark; %275 133; www.opusz the area. Of particular interest are photos of the dynamic artists’ colony here is felt well
BUS taszer.hu; admission park only 800Ft, park & panorama rough-and-ready tribal Magyars dressed in beyond Kohán György utca – from the gal-
The bus service is good from Szeged, with painting adult/student or child 1800/1200Ft; h9am-6pm their traditional 19th-century garb. leries and Autumn Weeks art festival in Octo-
frequent departures to Kecskemét (1090Ft, 1¾ Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar) in Ópusztaszer com- There are also horse shows (adult/child 500/ ber to the ceramic and bronze street signs
hours, 85km), Békéscsaba (1150Ft, two hours, memorates the single most important event 400Ft; h11.30am & 2.30pm Apr-Oct) celebrating the by eminent artists.
95km), Gyula (1820Ft, 3½ hours, 145km), in Hungarian history: the honfoglalás, or life of the nomadic Magyars of yesteryear,
Csongrád (725Ft, 1½ hours, 60km), Ópusz- ‘conquest’, of the Carpathian Basin by the bows to be shot (150Ft) and horses to be Orientation
taszer (363Ft, 45 minutes, 30km) and Hódme- Magyars in 896 (see p22). ridden (300Ft). The bus station (Bocskai utca) is just off
zővásárhely (363Ft, 35 minutes, 30km). Contrary to what many people think Ópusztaszer must be done as a day- Andrássy utca, about a 10-minute walk east
Other destinations from Szeged: (Hungarians included), the park does not trip; there is no accommodation within from Kossuth tér, the city centre. There are
mark the spot where Árpád, mounted on walking distance of the entrance and the two train stations in town: the main one
Destination Price Duration Km Frequency his white charger, first entered ‘Hungary’. only food option is within the park. Up to and Hódmezővásárhelyi-Népkert. The first
That was actually the Munkács Valley, 12 buses daily travel between Szeged (363Ft, is east of the city centre at the end of Mérleg
Debrecen 2910Ft 5hr 230 2 daily Hungarian territory until after WWI and
Mohács 1450Ft 3¼hr 155 6 daily now Ukrainian territory. But according HÓDMEZ«VÁSÁRHELY 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Népliget station 2170Ft 3hr 175 8 daily to the 12th-century chronicler known as
u
To Csúcs
Dó
A Pálf B C 47 D
óczi
Pécs 2410Ft 4¼hr 195 7 daily Anonymous, it was at this place called Szer fy u 13 Pottery
zsa
To Vándorsólyom (4km);
Rák
To Mártély (10km); To Kenguru House (1km) u
Tiszafüred 2660Ft 5hr 220 2 daily that Árpád and the six clan chieftains, who ka
Gy
Tisza-part Camping (150m); Aranyági Stud Farm (4km); Ró
u
ni
örg
Csongrád Orosháza (31km)
Dá
Veszprém 2910Ft 5hr 235 3 daily had sworn a blood oath of fidelity to him,
iu
(41km)
yu
Szántó Kovács János u

u
Károly
Galamb
held their first assembly, and so it was de-
r
1
án té
Tele
ki u ru
u
Buses also head for Arad, across the Ro- cided that a Millennium Monument would be Vöröskereszt
u vá zál u
Klau
ldos
Bú
t Istv
ὈὈὈ es u
manian border, daily at 6.30am Monday to erected here in 1896. (Scholars had actually
Zso
Tán
Szen
Könyv
csic
Da
iu
sM
Saturday. Buses run to Novi Sad in Serbia determined the date of the conquest to be
zs
nc u
mja
ihá
y Fere
ni
ly u 11
Kazincz
Ki
and Montenegro at 4pm daily and to Sub- between 893 and 895, but the government
nic
Deák Ferenc u lei u
Ber rem
hu
csé
nyi Sze
otica up to four times daily. A 9.30pm bus was not ready to mark the 1000-year an- Lázár u 9 Petªfi u
u Kálvin
tér Ba
Hódi Pál u
tal u
on Friday departs for Vienna. niversary until 1896.) 3 14
jcs
y-
Szent An
Zs M
ilin
Situated on top of a slight rise in the Great Bakai u Bocs 18 szk át
yá
Ba
kai u yu su
ὈὈὈ
Kossuth 2
jza
TRAIN Plain about 1km from the Szeged road, the 15 tér Andrássy u
u
16
Szeged is on a main train line to Buda- park is an attractive though sombre place. 2 Zrínyi u M
Városház u
é
Szent Király u
t u rleg
pest’s Nyugati station (2030Ft, 2¾ hours, Besides the neoclassical monument with 4
Oldalkosár u
ar
óp Train
u
st
190km). Another line connects the city Árpád taking pride of place, there are ruins 17 1 5 Ki
Szönyi u
pu
Ár
Station
pá
u
Kasza
d
8
with Hódmezővásárhely (346Ft, 35 min- of an 11th-century Romanesque church and Kodály Zoltán Hªsök Nagy Imre sé
tány
örgy u
6 u tere
utes, 30km) and Békéscsaba (1004Ft, two monastery (still being excavated) and an 7 Tóalj u
dtó
u
Kohán Gy
12 Hó
hours, 95km), where you can change trains excellent open-air museum (skanzen; hApr-Oct), 10
Hódtó u
Rudnay
for Gyula (1212Ft, three hours, 115km) or with a farmhouse, windmills, an old post Gyula u INFORMATION Folk Art House...................8 B2 Öszöm-Iszom..................14 B2
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Népkert Main Post Office................1 B2 János Tornyai
Romania. Southbound local trains leave office, a schoolhouse and cottages moved
u
OTP Bank..........................2 B2 Museum....................... 9 B2 DRINKING

igmond
Szeged for Subotica in Serbia and Montene- from villages around southeast Hungary. In Bartók Bé
la u
Petªfi Cultural Thermal Spa....................10 A3 Fekete Sas.......................15 A2
eu
Centre...........................3 B2 Sarokház..........................16 B2
u
gro twice daily at 6.20am and 4.25pm. one, the home of a rather prosperous and 3
Hóvirág
Ady Endr
Móricz Zs
Somog
Tourinform........................4 B2 SLEEPING
yi Béla
smug onion-grower from Makó, a sampler u
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Fáma................................11
Thermál Camping............12
C1 ENTERTAINMENT
B3 Hordó..............................17 A2
Getting Around admonishes potential gossips: ‘Neighbour 47
Alföld Gallery.....................5 B2
Artists' Colony...................6 A2 EATING TRANSPORT
Tram 1 from the train station will take you lady, away you go/If it’s gossip that you To Hódmezªvásárhelyi-
Népkert Train Station Entrance to Spa.................7 A2 Bandula............................13 B1 Bus Station......................18 C2
north to Széchenyi tér. The tram turns west want to know’ (or words to that effect). (750m)
utca, the second southwest at the end of Activities Sarokház (Kossuth tér 7; coffee 100Ft; h9am-9pm recreation. The bus station (Hunyadi tér) is
Ady Endre utca. The thermal spa (%244 238; Ady Endre utca 1; Sun-Thu, 9am-10pm Fri & Sat) The ‘Corner House’ five minutes from the main street, Fő utca.
adult/child 650/480Ft; h8am-8pm) in the Népk- is a quiet café filled with locals gossiping The train station lies to the southwest at the
Information ert, south of Kossuth tér, has eight hot and about the days’ events or whiling away the end of Vasút utca.
Main post office (Kossuth tér 8) On the south side of cold pools where you can immerse yourself, time people-watching and reading.
Kossuth tér. but Mártély, about 10km to the northwest Öszöm-Iszom (%239 341; Szent Antal utca 8; mains Information
OTP bank (Andrássy utca 1) This bank is on the east side on a backwater of the Tisza, is the city’s real 600-1200Ft; h 9am-midnight Sun-Thu, 9am-2am Fri, Main post office (Dózsa György tér 1) Northeast of the
of Kossuth tér and has an ATM. recreational centre, with boating, fishing and 9am-3am Sat) That’s ‘I Eat-I Drink’ in Szeged bus station.
Petőfi Cultural Centre (%241 710; Szántó Kovács swimming available. dialect – and it’s OK for a quick meal and OTP bank branch (Szentháromság tér 8) Has an ATM.
János utca 7; per hr 50Ft; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri) The Aranyági Stud Farm (%30-218 3354; Ser- a pint. Tourinform (%570 325; csongrad@tourinform.hu;
Tourinform (%249 350; hodmezovasarhely@tourinform háztér út 2), 4km northeast of the centre, has Szentháromság tér 8; h9am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep,
.hu; Szőnyi utca 1; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Just to the horse shows, horse riding and horse tours Entertainment 8am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun) In the cultural centre.
southeast of the main square. on request. Petőfi (%241 710; Szántó Kovács János utca 7) It can
advise you on what’s on in town. Sights & Activities
Sights Sleeping Hordó (%20-924 7381; Városház utca; h5pm-4am The town’s big museum, the László Tari Mu-
The János Tornyai Museum (%344 424; Szántó Fáma (%222 231; faama@vnet.hu; Szeremlei utca 7; s/d Fri & Sat) This cellar bar is a meeting point on seum (%481 103; Iskola utca 2; adult/child 200/100Ft;
Kovács János utca 16-18; adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am- from 6490/7520Ft; pa) This quiet hotel offers Friday and Saturday nights for those wish- h1-5pm Tue-Fri, 8am-noon Sat, 8am-noon & 1-5pm
4pm Tue & Wed, 10am-5pm Thu-Sun), named after a touch of serenity just behind the city’s ing to drink and play up large. Sun), examines the history of Csongrád,
a leading member of the Alföld School of synagogue. Rooms are spacious yet simple starting with tribes that settled the region
alfresco painting, displays some early arch- (only those on the 1st floor have air-con), Getting There & Away as far back as the Bronze Age.
aeological finds, but its raison d’être is to and there’s a restaurant and a private grassy Buses to Szeged (363Ft, 35 minutes, 30km), Walking eastward from the museum to
show off the folk art of Hódmezővásárhely – courtyard for guest use. Békéscsaba (846Ft, 1½ hours, 70km), Cson- the Öregvár district, you’ll pass the baroque
the painted furniture, ‘hairy’ embroidery Kenguru (%534 841; kenguru@vasarhely.hu; Szánto grád (544Ft, one hour, 40km) and the resort Church of Our Lady (Nagyboldogasszony tem-
done with yarn-like thread, and pottery Kovás János utca 78; r from 7250Ft; ps) Even area of Mártély (182Ft, 20 minutes, 12km) ploma), built in 1769, and the beautiful
unique to the region. The collection of though it isn’t centrally located, Kenguru is are frequent; there is a minimum of three Secessionist János Batsányi College (Kossuth tér).
jugs, pitchers and plates, most of them a fine option. Big, bright rooms with natural daily departures to Kecskemét (1210Ft, A bit further on is St Rókus Church, built in
made as wedding gifts, is the finest of all wood furniture and floors surround an inner two hours, 95km) and Budapest (2300Ft, 1722 on the site of a Turkish mosque.
and represents the many types once made courtyard used for secure parking; guests 3½ hours, 185km). The cobblestone streets of the protected
here and named after city districts, includ- can use the pool, sauna and solarium. Two train lines pass through Hódmező- Old Castle district begin at a little roundabout
ing Csúcs (white and blue), Tabán (brown) Vándorsólyom (%535 150; Kutasi út; s/d 6250/ vásárhely, and all trains serve both train three blocks east of the church. Most of the
and Újváros (yellow and green). 7000Ft; p) This nine-room inn has a peace- stations, which are 2km apart. The more district is made up of private homes or holi-
More pottery is on display at the Csúcs ful, rural setting 4km east of town. The entire important of the two lines connects Szeged day houses, but the Village Museum (Tájház;
Pottery House (Csúcsi Fazekasház; %242 224; Rákóczi place could do with a makeover but it’s the (346Ft, 35 minutes, 30km) with Békéscsaba Gyökér utca 1; admission free; h1-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)
utca 101; admission free; h1-5pm Tue-Sun), once the perfect place to combine accommodation (658Ft, 1¼ hours, 65km). gives a good idea of how the simple fisher
home of master potter Sándor Vékony, and with horse-riding (stables are next door). folk of Csongrád lived until not so long ago.
at the Folk Art House (Népművészeti tájház; %20- Also recommended: CSONGRÁD It’s housed in two old cottages connected
444 0560; Árpád utca 21, entry from Kaszap utca; admis- Tisza-part Camping (%228 057; %63 / pop 18,500 by a long thatched roof and contains period
sion free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun), two old thatched martelycamping@freemail.hu; camp sites per adult/ Csongrád’s sleepy charm lies in its Öregvár furniture, household items and lots of fish
farmhouses standing self-consciously in the child/tent 650/400/650Ft, bungalows per person 1350Ft; (Old Castle) district – a quiet fishing vil- nets and traps.
middle of a housing estate. hMay-Sep; p) Camp site in Mártély near plenty of lage of thatched cottages and narrow streets The town’s thermal spa (Dob utca 3-5; adult/child
Outsiders are not allowed into the artists’ recreational activities. on the bank of the Tisza – which hasn’t 550/430Ft; h7am-8pm Mon-Thu, 7am-10pm Fri, 8am-
colony (művésztelep; Kohán György utca 2), founded Thermál Camping (%245 033; Ady Endre utca 1; changed much since the 17th century. 10pm Sat, 8am-8pm Sun), fed by a spring with
in the early part of last century, but you can camp sites per adult/child/tent 720/360/850Ft, bungalows However, back in the 13th century Cson- water that reaches 46°C, is in a large park
view selected members’ work at the Alföld 6050-6600Ft; p) Small site handy to the spa. grád was a place of importance, gaining the and there are also outdoor pools and a strand
Gallery (%242 247; Kossuth tér 8, enter from Szönyi utca; title of royal capital of Csongrád County. (h7am-8pm). Tourinform (%570 325; Szenthárom-
adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am-4pm Tue & Wed, 10am- Eating & Drinking The invading Mongols put paid to that, all ság tér 8) can point you in the right direction
5pm Thu-Sun) housed in a neoclassical former Bandula (%244 234; Pálffy utca 2; mains 1000-2000Ft) but destroying the town; it wasn’t until the for horse riding and fishing in the area.
Calvinist school. Naturally the Alföld School With an international menu, quick service 1920s that it once again became known as
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
dominates; you might go a little crazy look- and cosy surroundings, Bandula is the best a town. Sleeping
ing at horses and shahoof (seep wells) and option for food in town. Fishing cottages (%483 631; idegenforgalom@cson
cowboys on the Great Plain in every season Fekete Sas (%249 326; Kossuth tér 5; drinks 300Ft) Orientation grad.hu; information Fő utca 3; houses 5000-16,000Ft;
through the eyes of Tornyai, István Nagy On the ground floor of the grand old Fekete Csongrád lies on the right bank of the Tisza, p) The most atmospheric places to stay
and József Koszta, but there are other things Sas Hotel (currently under renovation), close to where it is joined by the Körös in town are these cottages in the Old Castle
to enjoy such as the work of Menyhért Tóth Fekete Sas is the town’s ‘mature’ bar, with a River, some 58km north of Szeged. A back- district. The 200-year-old houses are squat
and the impressionist János Vaszary. more relaxed crowd and colourful interior. water (Holt-Tisza) south of town is used for dwellings with thick whitewashed walls, clay
ὈὈὈὈ
CSONGRÁD 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Hungarians however, and they usually is lined with busts of Hungarian literary,
Tisza River think of two very disparate things: fatty artistic and musical greats and some won-
iu
u
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈ
sausage and bloody riots. Csabai, a sau- derful late-19th-century mansions. Within
i Károly
Föveny
To St Rókus Church (750m);
ór u
sage not dissimilar to Portuguese chorizo, sight is the István Mill (István Malom; Gőzmalom tér),
József Attila u
INFORMATION Fishing Cottages; Öregvár District; SIGHTSy & ACTIVITIES
Village Museum (1.3km);
Jókai M
Csemeg
Main Post Office................1 B1 Church of Our Lady...........4 C1
OTP Bank...........................2FªB1
Körös-toroki Camping (3.5km)
János Batsányi College.......5 C1
is manufactured here, and Békéscsaba was a grey-brick colossus from the early 20th
u
1 Tourinform.........................3 B1 3 ndráss
y
the centre of the Vihar Sarok, the ‘Stormy century. It closed in 2005, with the unfor-
Iskola u
2 Gróf A la u László Tari Museum...........6 C1
Fª u 6 4 Gyu Thermal Spa.......................7 B1
Dózsa 8 12 Corner’ of the Great Plain, where violent tunate loss of hundreds of jobs.
Síp u
Dob u
György 5
Kossuth tér
SLEEPING riots broke out among day labourers and Across the canal from the mill is the
Vasút u
7 tér 1 Gróf Apponyi

Szentháromság Albert u Erzsébet..............................8 B1
10
harvesters in 1890. Mihály Munkácsy Museum (%323 377; Széchenyi
Györg
tér
ὈὈ Szent u
Hubertus...........................9 C2
utca 9; adult/child 300/150Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-
y
u
Erzsébet EATING
13 9 Justh Gyula u
Erzsébet Café...................(see 8) History Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar), which has exhib-
Gy
Hársfa u
Békéscsaba was an important fortified set- its devoted to the wildlife and ecology of the
ón
Kert..................................10 B1
Hunyadi
iG
Mus
Petªfi Sándor
Pompeii...........................11 C2
tér
tlement as early as the 14th century, but Great Plain, as well as to the folk culture of
éza
Kis Tisz
Tavasz u
kátli
Vasút u
Ifjúság DRINKING it was razed and its population scattered the region. Essentially, though, it’s a tem-
Ker
tér
u
Nefe
si út
au
Golden Horse Irish Pub....12 C1
esz
2 under Turkish rule. Early in the 18th cen- ple to the painter Munkácsy (1844–1900).
tu
lejcs
Szente
u
Viola
Hegy
i Anta ENTERTAINMENT
yi u
lu tury, a Habsburg emissary named János Some may find his depictions of the Great
u
Kossuth Cultural Centre...(see 3)
Zrín
u
11
yvir
ág u György Harruckern invited Rhinelanders Plain and its denizens a little sugar-coated,
TRANSPORT Gyöng
Train
Station Árp
ád
u
To Szeged Bus Station.......................13 B2
and Slovaks to resettle the area, and it soon but as a chronicler of that place and time
(55km) Holt-Tisza
became a Lutheran stronghold. (real or imagined) he is unsurpassed in
Development began to reach Békésc- Hungarian fine art. An ethnographic ex-
ovens, polished wood floors, and oodles of renovated old house, this restaurant serves saba in the 19th century when the railway hibit traces the history of the Romanian,
character. Each comes with a fully equipped decent pizza and South Slav specialities. passed through the city (1858) and by 1950, Slovak, German and Hungarian ethnic
kitchen and often two bedrooms. Golden Horse Irish Pub (Gróf Andrássy Gyula Békéscsaba had surpassed nearby Gyula in groups of the region.
Hubertus (%484 997; vi-ma@csongrad.hu; Justh utca 17/a) This is about the only decent place importance and the county seat was moved The Lutheran Great Church (Nagytemplom;
Gyula utca 5; r 7200Ft; p) Csongrád’s newest pen- in town for a drink, and is east of the centre here – something for which Gyula has yet Kossuth tér; admission free), completed in 1824,
sion is a bright yellow collaboration with on the way to the Öregvár. to forgive her sister city. and the 18th-century Small Church (Kistemp-
spotless en-suite rooms and a private court- lom; Kossuth tér; admission free), facing each other
yard for parking and relaxing in. Entertainment Orientation across Kossuth tér, attest to the city’s deeply
Erzsébet (%483 960; Fő utca 3; s/d 55007500Ft) This Kossuth Cultural Centre (%483 414; Szentháromság Békéscsaba’s train and bus stations stand rooted Protestantism. The baroque Greek Or-
old hotel is minutes from the bus station tér 8; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri) Information on Cson- side by side at the southwestern end of An- thodox church (Bartók Béla utca 51-53; admission free),
and has considerably large rooms filled with grád’s cultural activities, along with Internet drássy út, the main drag. A long stretch of dating from 1838, could easily be mistaken
so-so wood furniture. Rates include entry to access (100Ft per hour), is available here. this street, from Petőfi utca and Jókai utca for yet another Lutheran church from the
the thermal spa. to Szent István tér, is a pedestrian walkway, outside.
Körös-toroki Camping (%481 185; 3-person camp Getting There & Away and just beyond it lies the Élővíz-csatorna, Present or future farmers would no
sites 3000Ft, bungalows 6000-8000Ft; hmid-May–mid- From Csongrád buses run to Békéscsaba the ‘Living Water Canal’ that links Békésc- doubt be interested in the Grain Museum
Sep; ps) Körös-toroki sits at the conflu- (1090Ft, two hours, 90km, three daily), saba with Békes to the north, Gyula to the (Gabonamúzeum; %441 026; Gyulai út 65; adult/child
ence of the Tisza and Körös Rivers and has Budapest (1690Ft, 2½ hours, 140km, eight east, and the Körös River. To the east of the 150/80Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep), housed
the added bonus of direct access to a beach daily), Hódmezővásárhely (544Ft, one hour, canal lies the Parkerdő, the city’s cool and in several old thatched barns and crammed
and bungalows on stilts – the area floods 40km, nine daily) and Kecskemét (665Ft, leafy playground. with traditional tools and implements. The
in heavy rain and the mosquitoes can be one hour, 55km, 13 daily). The 15 daily bladeless 19th-century windmill nearby
unbearable. buses to Szeged (725Ft, 1½ hours, 60km) Information is one of the best examples surviving in
go via Ópusztaszer. Main post office (Irány utca) Hungary.
Eating & Drinking Csongrád is on the 40km secondary train OTP bank (Szent István tér 3; Andrássy út 4) The Slovakian Village House (Szlovák tájház;
Kert (%483 199; Dózsa György tér 6; mains 1000-2000Ft) line linking Szentes (182Ft, 15 minutes, Tourinform (%441 261; bekescsaba@tourinform.hu; % 327 038; Garay utca 21; adult/child 100/50Ft;
This garden inn, set back in a small park, 15km) to the east with Kiskunfélegyháza Szent István tér 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) h10am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-noon &
has an excellent array of Hungarian dishes (264Ft, 35 minutes, 25km) to the west. You Happy to supply truckloads of information on the town 2-4pm Thu-Sun Oct-Mar), is a wonderful Slovakian
to whet most appetites and an atmosphere can’t get very far from Szentes but Kiskun- and county. farmhouse built in 1865 and full of folk
to get most tongues wagging. félegyháza is a stop on the Budapest–Szeged www.bekescsaba.hu The city’s website. furniture and ornamentation. A lot of other
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Erzsébet Café (%483 106; Fő utca 3; coffee 200Ft) express-train line. typical peasant houses can be found in the
Recently given a complete overhaul, Erzsé- Sights & Activities neighbourhood, especially on Szigetvári
bet is now the town’s finest café, serving BÉKÉSCSABA The splendid town hall (városháza; Szent István utca and Sarkantyú utca.
inviting cakes and coffee in smart sur- %66 / pop 66,500 tér 7) on the main street has a façade (1873) The Árpád thermal baths (%549 800; Árpád
roundings. Békéscsaba is a sprightly town of leafy designed by the overworked Budapest ar- sor 2; adult/child 900/600Ft; h6am-8pm Nov-Sep) has
Pompeii (%470 160; Kis Tisza utca 6; mains 1000Ft) avenues and church spires, and a hand- chitect Miklós Ybl. Walk east on József At- both indoor and outdoor pools but not a
Hidden behind drooping willow trees in a ful of sights. Mention the place to most tila utca to the canal and Árpád sor, which whole lot of fun slides for kids.
ὈὈ
BÉKÉSCSABA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
for those in the mood for fish. Many of its change at Kötegyán may be required). Up
tables overlook the canal. to 11 trains daily depart from Békéscsaba for
A B C D
ὈὈ
Holsten (%441 827; Irányi utca 12; mains 850Ft) This Szeged (1004Ft, two hours, 95km).
INFORMATION
Main Post Office............... 1 C3 Él
basic eatery has simple Hungarian fare and a
OTP Bank.......................... 2 C3 Sár 10
ªv
íz lively atmosphere that fills tables quickly on Getting Around
lu
kan Ca
u
Kö
jna
OTP Bank.......................... 3 C2
most nights of the week. From the bus and train stations you can
ti
1 tyú na rg
há
Ha
Tourinform........................ 4 C2 u l át
nd
si ú
so
Márvány (Andrássy út 21; ice cream from 60Ft; hto reach Szent István tér on foot via Andrássy
Va
r
ké
Be
Bé
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES rén
Árpád Thermal Baths......... 5 D3
yi ú u 9pm) Those with a sweet tooth can satisfy út in about 20 minutes or wait for bus 5
su
t ás
Sze
dr their urges at this popular café, with outside to Szabadság tér. Bus 9 passes through the
íro
Great Church..................... 6 C2
Pus
An
nt
Zs
Greek Orthodox Church....7 B3 47 im
Lás
kin
István Mill......................... 8 D2 Ác
h 12 seating on a pretty square southeast of the same square on its way past the stadium
zlo
Ba
u
ros Ga
Mihály Munkácsy Museum..9 C2 su ra zu main street. and Grain Museum. Board Bus 7 for the
u
asi ú
t y
u rhá
Peasant Houses................10 B1 Kó
Peasant Houses................11 B2
Szarv Bacchus (Andrássy út 10; h7am-10pm) Bacchus college, Fényves hotel and Parkerdő.
Ki
u
Ernª
t
11
You can also order a taxi (%444 444).
s-T
is one of the few places on pedestrian An-
iú
Láz
Slovakian Village House... 12 C1
asi ú
t Kiss
Szig
oz
ab
Szarv 8
ár
ob
Small Church................... 13 C2 6
Jók
án
drássy út where you can procure a late night
D
etv
Gözmalom tér
Town Hall........................ 14 C2 Kossuth
u
ai u
ári
2 13 tér
hen
yi u Gyulai út 44
drink and sit outside. VÉSZTŐ
u
Széc
Sz
ὈὈ Arpád
SLEEPING
en
4
24 21 9 To Grain Museum
For those looking for a quick bite to eat, %66 / pop 7900
t Is
Déak Ferenc College........ 15 A4 (1.5km); Gyula (23km)
Irá
tvá
u 14
Békéscsaba’s big food market (Szabó Dezső utca; The Vésztő-Mágor National Historical Monu-
sor
Fiume.............................. 16 C2 ny
ula
Gy 16 3
n té
t h 23 Attila u
Medn
u
József Attila u
Jus
18
hWed & Sat) has a few food stalls and Speedy ment (%477 148; adult/child 300/100Ft; h9am-6pm
r
EATING 25 ef
Józs
De
Szab
Halászcsárda.................... 17 D3 ru au
Pizzeria (Justh Gyula utca; pizzas 400-1000Ft) churns May-Sep; 10am-4pm Apr & Oct), 4km northwest of
yánszky
the a b
zsª
Holsten............................18 C2 Lu Cs
adsá
út
né
ssy out tasty morsels. Vésztő, contains two burial mounds of a
Gyó
Market.............................19 B3 2
Thurz
u
drá
g té
u
Márvány..........................20 B3 An
ni G
type found throughout Hungary (see, for

r
óu
Speedy Pizzeria................ 21 C2 22
Ha
éza
za u
zi u
1
ky Baj Entertainment example, p128) and as far east as Korea.
án
Bánsz
Jóka
shá
Sza
20
Kazincz
Illé
Lajo
DRINKING út Club Narancs (%453 032; Szent István tér 3; h4.30- Such mounds are not all that rare on the
bó
iu
Os
y 17 u
Bacchus........................... 22 C3 ss ch
Dózsa
la u
su
drá uli
Dez
zká
3 é
An ók B A
10pm Mon-Wed, 4.30pm-4am Thu-Sat) A true student Great Plain, but these are particularly rich
yu
19 Bart
ru
sª u
ENTERTAINMENT
Szabo
5 haunt with minimal décor, cheap drinks, in archaeological finds. The first is a verit-
Gy
Pet
Club Narancs................... 23 C2 Gá
örg
ªfi
Ba
bo
County Cultural Centre.... 24 C2 u
loud music and a raucous vibe, Narancs able layer cake of cult and everyday ob-
lcs u
tth
Petªfi ré
yú
rÁ
u
g
yá
Jókai Theatre................... 25 C2 ro Park De

t
is the place to go for a bit of a booze-up. jects, shrines and graves dating from the 4th
ny
n
u
u
Élª Á
TRANSPORT 7 víz rpád Thursday thru Saturday sees various themed century BC onward. The second contains
Bus Station...................... 26 A4 u Can sór
al
Tu Bé
la clubbing events. the 10th-century Csolt monastery and church
u
k Ka
út
rtó The Jókai Theatre (%441 527; Andrássy út 1), which is partially restored, but a lot of im-
ru
lip
ey
15 án sté
Ba Er
sy
«
lcs
ly
ás
u k Co u
Kö
el
the Great Church and the Town Hall are agination is required to piece it all together.
dr
u rvin
An
Bánát u u
Te
m Arany Já
the main cultural venues in Békéscsaba. Ask It is in the centre of the patchwork 520-
lu
4 et nos u
at Tourinform or the County Cultural Centre sq-km Körös-Maros National Park, which is very
ue
Train ö so la
u
m
Station r Bé
Sá
Egressy
ók
u (%527 660; Luther utca 6) for dates and times. rich in aquatic vegetation and wildlife. For
ik
Ar
rt
ed
ad
Ba
ss
u
yi
To Parkerdª (1.5km);
Check the listings in Békési Est, a biweekly information contact the park visitors centre
iu
Te
26 án Garzon Fenyves
Cs (2.5km)
entertainment guide distributed free. (%313 855; Anna-liget 1, Szarvas; adult/child 300/200Ft;
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct).
Getting There & Away The national monument is 4km from
Sleeping Ifjusági-tábor and has huge, modern rooms Buses leave for Gyula (241Ft, 30 minutes, Vésztő and is connected by four buses Mon-
Garzon Fenyves (% 457 377; www.fenyveshotel and friendly staff. 15km) every half-hour and for Szarvas day to Saturday; the last leaves at 7.39pm.
.hu; s/d 8300/10,300Ft; pa) This retreat-like Déak Ferenc College (%325 620; e-deak@freeweb (605Ft, one hour, 45km) once an hour. At least five daily buses run between Vésztő
hotel occupies a cool, leafy oasis in the .hu; Andrássy út 56; dm 1100Ft, s/d 1200/2400Ft; hJul- Twelve buses daily go to Szeged (1150Ft, and Gyula (484Ft, 1¼ hours, 35km) and
Aug; p) This college accommodation is two hours, 95km) and two to Budapest Békéscsaba (484Ft, 1¼ hours, 35km). Up to
handy to both the bus and train stations and (2660Ft, four hours, 210km). Other desti- six daily trains leave Békéscsaba for Vésztő
AUTHOR’S CHOICE has simple but comfy rooms with shared nations include Kecskemét (1820Ft, three (658Ft, 1½ hours, 65km; a change at Köt-
Fiume (% 443 243; Szent István tér 2; s/d facilities. hours, 145km, five daily) and Vésztő (484Ft, egyán may be required) by way of Gyula
8750/11,750Ft; p ) Fiume bears the old 1¼ hours, 35km, five to nine daily – direct, (430Ft, 1¼ hours, 50km).
name of the Adriatic port of Rijeka (now in Eating & Drinking via Gyula or via Mezőberény).
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Croatia) and is Békéscsaba’s premier hotel Fiume (mains around 1200Ft) At the hotel of the Up to 10 daily trains – most of them SZARVAS
and one of the nicest in Hungary. Rooms same name, this fine diner has a menu expresses – link Békéscsaba with Szolnok %66 / pop 18,000
are bedecked in period furniture and range weighed down with heavy Hungarian meat (1004Ft, 1½ hours, 95km) and Budapest’s Szarvas is a pretty green town 45km north-
from tiny to spacious, and corridors seem to dishes; choose from tables under chande- Keleti station (2030Ft, 2½ hours, 195km). west of Békéscsaba on a backwater of the
go on forever, much like the Overlook in The liers or seating with tree-shade. Trains are frequent (up to 17 daily) to Gyula Körös River (Holt-Körös). Its biggest draw-
Shining. But don’t let that put you off. Halászcsárda (%446 625; Árpád sor 1; mains 1500- (182Ft, 15 minutes, 15km), and six continue card is the arboretum, easily the best in
2000Ft) Halászcsárda is the place of choice on to Vésztő (658Ft, 1½ hours, 65km, a Hungary, but the best thing to ever happen
to Szarvas was the arrival of Sámuel Tes- trees, swamp cedars, Spanish pines and pam- Sleeping Szarvas is on the train line linking
sedik, a Lutheran minister and pioneering pas grass. The arboretum is about 2km north- Lux (%313 417; lux@szarvas.hu; Szabadság út 35; r from Mezőhegyes and Orosháza with Mezőtúr
scientist who established one of Europe’s west of the centre across the Holt-Körös. 8500Ft; pa) Lux is only a stone’s throw and has services six times daily. From
first agricultural institutes here in 1770. The Sámuel Tessedik Museum (%216 608; Vajda from the bus station and has large rooms Békéscsaba (774Ft, 1½ to two hours, 75km),
Péter utca 1; adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am-6pm Tue- with dated furniture, a restaurant and fit- it’s faster to take an express train to Mezőtúr
Orientation Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) has some ness centre, sauna and solarium. and change for Szarvas there.
Szabadság út, the main street, bisects the interesting Neolithic exhibits from the Halászcsárda (%311 164; I ker 6; r 8500Ft; pa)
town and leads westward to the Holt-Körös goddess-worshipping Körös culture taken This more rustic option has small attic GYULA
and arboretum. On either side of Szabadság from burial mounds on the Great Plain, rooms and is located on the edge of Eliza- %66 / pop 32,000
út are dozens of small squares organised in and while the section devoted to Tessedik is beth Park, creating a secluded, retreat feel. A town of spas with the last remaining
chessboard-like fashion by Tessedik, full of intriguing, it’s only in Hungarian. The birth- Liget (%311 954; www.ligetpanzio.hu; camp sites medieval brick castle on the Great Plain,
flower gardens and even small orchards. place of Endre Bajcsy-Zsilinszky (Vajda Péter utca), per adult/child/tent 800/600/650Ft, 4-person bungalows Gyula is a wonderful place to recharge your
The train station is in the eastern part of the resistance leader murdered by Hungar- 10,500, r from 9900Ft; ps) This all-in-one ac- batteries before crossing into Romania, just
town at the end of Vasút utca, while the bus ian fascists in 1944, is on the same street commodation option is a family-orientated 4km to the east. It also has a couple of re-
station (Szabadság út) is in the centre at the four blocks to the north. place, with a wellness centre, pool and lake warding museums worth poking around in
corner of Bocskai István utca. The neoclassical Bolza Mansion (Bolza-kastély; swimming. Camping, bungalows and mod- while your skin de-prunes.
Szabadság út 2), facing the Holt-Körös, was built ern en-suite rooms are available.
Information in 1819 as the homestead of a land-owning History
K&H bank (Szabadság út) family of that name who also founded the Eating & Drinking Gyula refused to allow the Arad-bound rail-
Main post office (Szabadság út 9) arboretum. Today the mansion is part of Halászcsárda (mains 1000-2000Ft) In the pension of way to cross through the town in 1858 – a de-
Panorama (%312 760; Kossuth tér 3/2; per hour 180Ft) the Tessedik Agricultural College but the the same name is this fish restaurant, with a velopment welcomed by Békéscsaba, 20km
In the pizzeria; has Internet access. grounds can be visited. Splitting Holt- relaxed atmosphere and tables on a terrace to the west. As a result, Gyula was stuck at
Tourinform (%311 140; szarvas@tourinform.hu; Körös’ current in two in front of the man- overlooking the river. the end of a spur and developed at a much
Kossuth tér 3; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat mid- sion is the Millennium Monument, a statue of Kiszely (cnr Szabadság út & Béke utca; ice cream from slower pace. In 1950 the county seat was
Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri May–mid-Jun, 9am-4pm St Stephen’s Crown flanked by two angels 80Ft; h9am-9pm) Kiszely is a cute cukrászda, moved from here (after 500 years, Gyulans
Mon-Fri Sep-Apr) In the cultural centre. on top of a pole. small in size but big on ice cream and cake like to point out) to its sister city, Békéscsaba.
Just north of Tourinform in the town’s selections. Gyula is still seething and a strong rivalry
Sights & Activities dusty back alleys is Hungary’s best-preserved Green House Irish Pub (Kossuth Lajos utca 25) persists between the two: from who should
The Szarvas Arboretum (%312 344; adult/child horse-driven dry mill (szárazmalom; %216 609; Ady Next to Belváros is this large pub that’s far be allocated more county money, to whose
500/300Ft; h 8am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 8am-3pm Endre utca 1; adult/child 300/150Ft; h1-5pm Tue-Sun Apr- more green than Irish, and has the potential football team and sausage is better.
mid-Nov–mid-Mar), with some 30,000 individ- Oct), built in the early 19th century, and a to get rather rowdy on weekends.
ual plants not native to the Great Plain, is Slovakian Village House (Szlovák tájház; %312 492; For a quick, cheap pizza, try Panoráma Orientation
Hungary’s finest. On 82 hectares it contains Hoffmann utca 1; adult/child 200/100Ft; h1-5pm Tue-Sun (%312 760; Kossuth tér 3/2; pizzas from 500Ft), next to Gyula is actually two towns: the commercial
around 1600 species of rare trees, bushes and Apr-Oct) filled with hand-woven textiles and Tourinform, which has the advantage of out- centre on Városház utca to the west and the
grasses, including mammoth pines, ginkgo articles from everyday life. door seating, or Belváros (%312 525; Kossuth Lajos Várfürdő (Castle Bath) in a big park to the
utca 23; pizzas 500-1000Ft), an appealing option on east. The areas are within walking distance of
SZARVAS 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
a quiet back street. each other. The Élővíz Canal runs east–west
through the centre of Gyula, from a branch of
A B C D Entertainment
Zalka M
the Körös River to Békéscsaba and beyond.

Nád u 4
u
INFORMATION Bolza Mansion.................5 A2 Lux................................11 C2

Péter Vajda Cultural Centre (%311 181, Kossuth Gyula’s bus station (Vásárhelyi Pál utca)
ány
Arany
János6 C1
K&H Bank........................1 B2 Dry Mill............................
áté u
ὈὈ
u
otm
tér 3) This centre should have updates on is south of Kossuth Lajos tér. Walk north
u
Üd Main Post Office..............2 B2 Millennium Monument.... 7 A2 EATING

ter
üll
Alk
ª
Pé
Tourinform......................3 C2 Sámuel Tessedik Museum..8 A2 Belváros.........................12 B2

sé what might be on in Szarvas. through the park to the square and over
Be
1 tá
jda
ny Slovakian Village House... 9 C2 Kiszely...........................13 C2

Granárium Zebra Club (%311 946; Kossuth Lajos
Va
the canal bridge to reach the town centre.

Jó
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Panorama......................14 C2

zs
Vas
ef
út u Birthplace of Endre SLEEPING

utca 2) This is the town’s mainstay for loud The train station is at the northern end of
u
H
ol
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky...........4 B1 Halászcsárda..................10 A2 DRINKING

t-K
To Liget 15
Ady En Granárium Zebra Club....15 B1 live acts; otherwise, pick up a free copy of Béke sugárút.
ör
(1.5km); dre u Green House Irish Pub...16 B2

ös
Szarvas Kos biweekly Békési Est for more information.

Be
suth 6
m
Arboretum 8 Lajo Ady

Information
Józ
eu
(2km) 7 su ENTERTAINMENT Endre

sef
5 Vasú u
Bék
tu Péter Vajda Cultural

Getting There & Away
u
u
ann
Erste bank (Városház utca) Has ATM.

enc
44 Centre.......................(see 3)
ffm
G R E AT P L A I N
G R E AT P L A I N
Szab 9
Fer
Szarvas can be reached by bus from Békésc- Post office (Eszperantó tér) South of the canal.
Ho
adsá 16 12
g út
ák
10 TRANSPORT
saba (605Ft, one hour, 45km, at least Tourinform (%561 681; bekes-m@tourinform.hu;
De
Bus Station....................17 C2
el u
Elizabeth 1 Kos
2 Park 2
suth
Vasú hourly), Debrecen (1930Ft, three to four Kossuth Lajos utca 7; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm
Leh
Lajo
u
Kossuth tér su tu
su
Béke
14
hours, 155km, two daily), Gyula (786Ft, 1¾ Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-
Flóra u
3
di Jáno
Mark 44 To Train
ovitz
Máty
ás u Fª tér 13 Station
(500m) hours, 65km, one daily), Kecskemét (968Ft, Sep–mid-Jun) Very helpful office located in a gallery.
Hunya
Martos
Rákóczi u 11
1¾ hours, 80km, six daily) and Szeged www.gyula.hu The town’s website, in Hungarian and
17
(907Ft, two hours, 75km, six daily). German.
Sights museum, with more than 3000 paintings operas and the music for the Hungarian na- MIDRANGE
Gothic Gyula Castle (%464 117; Várfürdő utca 1; adult/ and graphics bequeathed to the city by the tional anthem. The house contains memor- There are plenty of hotels in or around the
child 800/400Ft; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug, 9am-5pm artist upon his death in 1966. The large can- abilia about his life and music. Várfürdő, most of them sprawling, modern
Tue-Sun Sep–mid-Jun), overlooking a picturesque vases of horses and women in dark blues An interesting – and, for Hungary, very affairs with everything you could possibly
moat near the Castle Baths, was originally and greens, and the relentless summer sun unusual – museum is Ladics House (%463 need. Room rates vary widely depending
built in the mid-15th century but has been of the Great Plain, are quite striking and 940; Jókai Mór utca 4; adult/child 400/200Ft; h1-5pm on the season, but generally the most ex-
expanded and renovated many times over well worth a look. Tue, 9am-5pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), the perfectly pensive times are from June to Septem-
the centuries, most recently in May 2004. Its The baroque Inner City Church (Belvárosi tem- preserved and beautifully furnished mid- ber and over the Christmas and New Year
24 rooms now showcase the castle’s history, plom; Harruckern tér 1; admission free; h10am-6pm), 19th century residence of a prosperous holidays.
focusing in particular on its medieval days from 1777, has interesting contemporary bourgeois family. Next door, the Százéves Aranykereszt (%463 194; www.hotels.hu/arany
when the Ottoman Turks were in town, and ceiling frescoes highlighting events in (%362 045; Erkel tér 1; h10am-8pm) cake shop kereszt; Eszperantó tér 2; s/d from 5000/7000Ft; p )
the weapons used to finally fend them off. Hungarian and world history – including and museum is a visual and culinary de- Away from Várfürdő but alongside the
Like any self-respecting castle, there’s a thick an astronaut in space! The Zopf Romanian light. Established around 1840 (no doubt canal, this hotel has simple rooms with
wall to wander along, a tower to climb and Orthodox church (Gróza Park; admission free), from Mrs Ladics bought her petits-fours here), the old-fashioned furniture but overall has the
a dungeon to explore, but the latter is only 1812, has a beautiful iconostasis (you can Regency-blue interior is filled with Bieder- most charm of any in Gyula. Rooms over-
open during breaks in Castle Theatre per- try and get the key from the house just meier furniture and mirrors in gilt frames. looking the canal exude a rustic yet retreat-
formances. Close by is the Ferenc Erkel Museum south of the church entrance), but for con- It is one of the most beautiful cukrászdák in like feel.
(%361 236; Kossuth Lajos utca 17; adult/child 400/200Ft; temporary icons at their kitschy best, no Hungary. Aqua (%463 146; aqua-hotel@axelero.hu; Part utca
h1-5pm Tue, 9am-5pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun). It has place compares with the Mary Museum (Apor 7/c; s/d from €24/36; pa) Recently renovated
a Dürer Room devoted to archaeological finds – tér 11; adult/child 400/200Ft; h 9am-noon & 12.30- Activities rooms at the Aqua are modern and spa-
pottery, jewellery and weapons – from the 3pm Tue-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Mar-Nov, 9am-noon Tue-Sun The Castle Baths (Várfürdő; Várkert utca 2; adult/ cious, and staff are exceedingly friendly.
region. Dec-Feb). You’ve never seen the Virgin in so child mid-Jun–Aug 1300/1050Ft, Sep–mid-Jun 950/800Ft; Bicycles are available for guest use and pick-
The György Kohán Museum (%361 795; Béke many guises. On the same square is the hindoor pools 8am-6pm, outdoor pools 8am-8pm mid- ups from the bus and train stations can be
sugárút 35; adult/child 400/200Ft; h1-5pm Tue, 9am- Ferenc Erkel House (%463 552; Apor tér 7; adult/child Jun–Aug) are in the 30-hectare Castle Gar- arranged.
5pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), in quiet Göndöcs- 400/200Ft; h1-5pm Tue, 9am-5pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1pm den (Várkert) east of the city centre and Corvin (% 362 044; www.corvin-hotel.hu; Jókai
Népkert, is Gyula’s most important art Sun), birthplace of the man who composed include 19 pools both indoors and out and utca 9-11; s/d from €42/51; pa) Located in the
a thoroughly modern wellness complex of town centre away from any water, Corvin
GYULA 0 500 m
the highest standards. is the odd hotel out in Gyula. Rooms are
ὈὈ
0 0.3 miles
Train Station quite plush, with unusual window designs,
A
Halácsy u Madách u
B Lake
Erkel
C D Festivals & Events an array of pastel shades and solid wooden
INFORMATION György Kohán SLEEPING Market..........................26 A3
The biggest event of the year is the Gyula floors.
u
Theatre Festival, with performances in the Also recommended:

Ernª
Erste Bank........................1 B2 Museum..................7 A2 Agro..............................14 B3 Öcsi & Fusek..................27 B2

1 Post Office......................2 A3 Gyula Castle................8 C2 Aqua.............................15 C3 Rondella Tower.............28 C2 castle courtyard from July to mid-August. Park (%463 711; parkgyula@civishotels.hu; Part utca 15;
Kiss
Tourinform......................3 B3 Inner City Church........9 B2 Aranykereszt..................16 B3 Sörpince........................29 A3

Ladics House..............10 B2 Corvin...........................17 A2 There’s also an All-Hungarian Folkdance Festi- s/d from 6000/9500Ft; ps) Alpine-style hotel on the
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mary Museum..........11
Castle Baths.....................4 C3 Romanian Orthodox
A2 Márk.............................18
Park...............................19
C2
C3
DRINKING
Bacardi...........................30 B2
val around the 20th August. edge of the baths.
Ferenc Erkel House..........5 A2 Church..................12 B3 Thermál Camping......... 20 D2 Agro (%463 522; www.hotels.hu/agrogyula; Part utca 5;
Epreskert u
Ferenc Erkel Museum......6 C2 Százéves....................13
Ady Endre u
B2
EATING
ENTERTAINMENT
Ferenc Erkel Cultural
Sleeping s/d from €31/44; p) Adequate rooms and a bunch of
Erdélyi Sándor u Fehér Holló....................21 D3 Centre.......................31 A2 BUDGET wellness facilities.
Béke sugárút
Halászcsárda..................22 B3 Macho...........................32 B3
There is a plethora of private rooms (from
To
Nürnbergi u
u
Herkules Taverna...........23 A3
Ajtóssy Albert
cs
Eating & Drinking

u
Sáros u
2500Ft) and pensions south of Part utca;

án
yi Kézm¬ves......................24 B2 TRANSPORT
lvin
Nagyv
Göndöcs- 7 u
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Kisködmön.....................25 B3 Bus Station....................33 A3
Ká
Ha Tourinform can provide you with a list for Kisködmön (% 463 934; Városház utca 15; mains
Ár
ly u
Népkert jna
pá
áradi
31 lu
ihá
2
d
both, and also for student-dorm accommo- 1200-2000Ft) Hidden away down an uninvit-
u
yM
Vár u
út
u
5 Harruckern dation over the summer months. All can be ing alley is this wonderful restaurant, with
ács
ály
Erkel Petªfi tér Sz

11
nk
18 ép
Tib
tér
i Mih
Apor tér found on the town’s website. décor that looks as though it belongs in the
Mu
10 u
or
Scherer F tér ór u 13 M
Jókai M
cu
u eg 8
6
Márk (%463 380; Vár utca 5; 2-person camp sites early 1800s. Food is traditionally prepared,
oly
ye 28
há
K Schriffert
17 9 u
Szélsª
Kár
1 zu
József u
20
u
27 s
Városház u 2600Ft; h year-round) Of Gyula’s camping with organic products as much as possible.
u
Hét vezér u Lajo Várf

os
Kos suth ürdª Tib

ác
32 30 3 u
12 Várkert orc
grounds, this is the friendliest, most central Herkules Taverna (%30-430 7730; Bodoky utca;
Ak
25 24 Gróza
lsª
23 29 Park 4 u
Szé
Élªvíz Canal
16
and charming, but it’s very small and only mains 1000-1200Ft) This typically blue-and-
Ha
Kossuth 2 Esperantó 21
G R E AT P L A I N
lás
Bar
G R E AT P L A I N
22
Lajos tér tér
for caravans and tents. white Greek restaurant has a secluded spot
zs
tók
Kará 14
ló u
cson Tö
r
yi Já Part u
Thermál Camping (%463 704; www.gyulacamp with tables overlooking the canal.
u
33 lgy
Híd u
a
útj
ász
lu nos 15 fa
k i Pá Do u 19 u
3 nú Vásárh ely
nt L
ért
a
ing.hu; Szélső utca 16; camp sites per adult/child/tent from Halászcsárda (%466 303; Part utca 3; mains 900-
Szölöskert u
u
Bajza u
Sze
b
Ho
Körgát u
V Pacsir
Csiga
u ta u lós u
Sze
44
nv
i Mik
nt I
€3/2/2.50, s/d €17/24; p) Some 700m from the 1500Ft) Facing the canal, this place offers the
Diófa u
Rába
éd
Mágocsi u
stv
su
u
ei town’s action, Thermál Camping is a bit out usual fishy dishes in pleasant surroundings
án
26 Mátyá
Október elw s király
u
u
of the way but it does have good camp facili- and is only a short walk from most hotels
Attila u
6 tér m
44 m
Se
ties, such as a restaurant, café and kitchens. and the centre.
© Lonely Planet Publications
278 G R E AT P L A I N • • S o u t h e r n P l a i n www.lonelyplanet.com
Sörpince (%362 382; Kossuth tér 2; mains 1000Ft) Entertainment

Sörpince is a dark drinker’s den with a sur- Ferenc Erkel Cultural Centre (%463 806; Béke sug-
prisingly good menu of Hungarian dishes árút 35) This centre in Göndöcs-Népkert has
(with a few veggie options thrown in for staff that can tell you what cultural events
fun) and comes locally recommended. are on offer in Gyula. Organ concerts are
Öcsi & Fusek (%468 495; Kossuth Lajos utca 6; mains sometimes held at the Inner City Church,
800-1600Ft) This is not only popular for its especially around Christmas.
great back courtyard but also for its hearty Macho (Városház utca 1; hto 4am Sun-Thu, to 6am
lunch-time set menu (6000Ft). It’s also fash- Fri & Sat) This is the town’s badly named main
ionable with workers needing a drink after club; check the free biweekly Békési Est for
work. more information on bars in Gyula.
Fehér Holló (%457 835; Tiborc utca 49; mains 800-
1500Ft) This place has a nice quiet spot near Getting There & Away
the canal and is a good choice for csárda- With Gyula lying on an unimportant rail
style Hungarian meals, especially if you’re spur, buses are the preferred mode of trans-
staying at Thermál Camping. port. There are dozens each day departing
Bacardi (Kossuth Lajos utca 3; h10am-midnight for Békéscsaba (241Ft, 30 minutes, 15km)
Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri, 10am-4am Sat) A magnet for and three go to Debrecen (1690Ft, three
Gyula’s 20- to 30-somethings, who make the hours, 130km). Other destinations include
most of a night out on the town. Budapest (2780Ft, four to six hours, 230km,
For coffee and cake, Gyula does itself two daily), Kecskemét (1820Ft, 3¼ hours,
proud; take your pick from the squat 16th- 145km, two daily), Szeged (1820Ft, 3½
century Rondella tower with a delightful hours, 145km, seven daily), and Vésztő
terrace in summer near the castle, the origi- (484Ft, 1¼ hours, 35km, three daily).
nal caféhouse Százéves (%362 045; Erkel tér 1) Some 17 trains daily run west on line 128,
or Kézműves (Városház utca 21; ice cream from 85Ft; Gyula’s link to the Békéscsaba–Szolnok–
h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun), a mod- Budapest train line. Travelling north on this
ern establishment that sates many locals of poky line will get you to Vésztő (430Ft, 1¼
their ice-cream cravings. hours, 50km), Szeghalom and eventually
Gyula’s main market (Október 6 tér) for fruit, to Püspökladány, where you can change
vegetables and other produce is southwest trains for Debrecen (1624Ft, 3½ hours,
of the bus station. 150km).
G R E AT P L A I N
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Hungary 5 Great Plain

Încărcat de

Informații document

Drepturi de autor

Formate disponibile

Partajați acest document

Partajați sau inserați document

Opțiuni de partajare

Vi se pare util acest document?

Este necorespunzător acest conținut?

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

Hungary 5 Great Plain

Încărcat de

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

© Lonely Planet Publications

224 www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT P L A I N 225

To Alba Iulia (112km);

To Alba Iulia (178km);

Debrecen (p233), the capital of the east

History main street, Kossuth Lajos út, runs roughly SZOLNOK 0

Gáspár Nyúzó House................... 5 D4 Café.......................................14 D3

This is bisected by Piac utca, which runs

Pál Kiss Museum..........................6 B2 Market.......................................15 D3

Thermal Spa.................................7 B1 Molnár.....................................(see 11)

Koss doors, head for the Puszta Forest (Erdőspuszta),

Csokonai....................................26 C2 30 arate art gallery. The museum’s entrance is

hotel.hu; s 14,000-16,800Ft, d 18,000-21,600Ft, S Délibáb.............................................

an attached restaurant, so you won’t have to

Fábián Pension.......................17 B2 DRINKING

52 Udvarház...............................20 C2 Bols Music Café.........................29 C3

4 örú Katona Theatre................31 C3

(Continued from page 248)

Eating & Drinking

Korona Tours.................................(see 13) r

Post Office.........................................3 D2 Búzapiac

Post office (Oroszlán utca 5) BAJA 0

Salt Lake, Sziksós ap Osztrovszky u

Camping & Naturista no

34 t Tisza Lajos krt To Kiskªrösy

S Aradi tér To Ottó

Cyber Arena....................1 C3 Serbian Orthodox Numero Uno Pizza.........37 C2

Festival Ticket Office........2 B3 Church......................20 C3 Régi Hídhoz...................38 C3

Main Post Office..............4 B2 Thermal Spa.................. 22 D3 Zodiákus........................40 B3

Tourinform......................6 B3 Votive Church................24 B3 DRINKING

Tourinform Booth............7 B2 Beer Stand.....................41 B3

Szántó Kovács János u

OTP Bank..........................2 B2 Museum....................... 9 B2 DRINKING

7 tér 1 Gróf Apponyi

type found throughout Hungary (see, for

Jókai Theatre................... 25 C2 ro Park De

the Körös River to Békéscsaba and beyond.

INFORMATION Bolza Mansion.................5 A2 Lux................................11 C2

Üd Main Post Office..............2 B2 Millennium Monument.... 7 A2 EATING

Tourinform......................3 C2 Sámuel Tessedik Museum..8 A2 Belváros.........................12 B2

ny Slovakian Village House... 9 C2 Kiszely...........................13 C2

the canal bridge to reach the town centre.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Panorama......................14 C2

út u Birthplace of Endre SLEEPING

Bajcsy-Zsilinszky...........4 B1 Halászcsárda..................10 A2 DRINKING

(1.5km); dre u Green House Irish Pub...16 B2

Szarvas Kos biweekly Békési Est for more information.

Arboretum 8 Lajo Ady

(2km) 7 su ENTERTAINMENT Endre

tu Péter Vajda Cultural

Erste bank (Városház utca) Has ATM.

Theatre Festival, with performances in the Also recommended:

Erste Bank........................1 B2 Museum..................7 A2 Agro..............................14 B3 Öcsi & Fusek..................27 B2

Tourinform......................3 B3 Inner City Church........9 B2 Aranykereszt..................16 B3 Sörpince........................29 A3

Eating & Drinking

2500Ft) and pensions south of Part utca;

Erkel Petªfi tér Sz

Hét vezér u Lajo Várf

Kos suth ürdª Tib

Sörpince (%362 382; Kossuth tér 2; mains 1000Ft) Entertainment

S-ar putea să vă placă și