Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
SUBMITTED BY:
NITIN KUMAR
MEEZAN ALAM
DFT/2014-18
1
Acknowledgement
We take this opportunity to express our profound gratitude and deep regards to Mr. Hiral
Lakdawala, (Plant Manager) for providing us this golden opportunity to work under this project. His
exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of Apparel
Internship. The help given by him from time to time shall carry us a long way in the journey of life on
which we are about to embark.
We owe our deepest gratitude to our Industry mentors Miss. Diksha Kumari (Executive-IE), Mr.
Dhiraj Kumar (Production Executive) and Mr. Prashant Kumar (Executive-IE), for the valuable
guidance, advice, useful comments, remarks and engagement throughout the learning process of this
project and sharing their precious time with us during the internship.
It is with immense gratitude that we acknowledge the support and help of our former Industry Mentor
Mr. Rohit Kumar (Deputy Manager). His throughout consideration and sincere guidance helped us
covering up each and every topic in the successful completion of this Report.
We would like to thank Mr. Raghavendra (Manager-IE) for his valuable support in fulfilling our
every sort of requirements that gave us the possibility to complete this project successfully.
We would like to present our overwhelming gratitude to our institute mentor Mr. Jayaram Pari
(Assistant Professor) whose sincere guidance and throughout contribution has enriched us with
valuable input, our Center Coordinator Dr. Abhijeet Mukherjee for his continuous guidance and
support.
Last but not the least We deeply appreciate the guidance provided by the staffs and operators at Silver
Spark Apparel Ltd. who were a helping hand at every next step.
Thank you Silver Spark.
2
Table of contents
3
Table of Tables
4
Table of Flow Charts
5
Table of Figures
6
CHAPTER -1
RAYMOND
INTRODUCTION
7
Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man
Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs.1400 crore plus conglomerate having
businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and
Toiletries.
The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced
position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and
Leadership.
Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted textiles
market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development, marketing and
distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and development, a range of over 20,000
shades and designs, a distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over
281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in
India.
Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look
good and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values
creates a warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.
At Raymond‘s consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted
in pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry
in India.
The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from
developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all
occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond Shops at convenient
locations all over India and the Middle East.
As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing
worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.
Raymond is home to some of the most reputed apparel brands of India under the banner of
Raymond Apparel Ltd.
8
1.1 LIST OF COMPANIES
RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of
worsted fabrics in the world.
9
A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components
JK ANSELL LTD.
The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical
gloves.
JK TALABOT LTD
Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps
for international markets.
10
1.3 HISTORY
Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his
dream: he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilo meters away
from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired
this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills
When the Singhania were looking for new regions to establish their presence and new fields
to venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information
that a woolen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the
grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill
was primarily making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced
woolen fabrics.
The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in establishing the J.K.
Group‘s presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked
upon a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen
fabrics of a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a
world-class factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen
fabrics. At Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels
When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in
restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he
initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more focused approach,
become market oriented and achieved a consolidated position
11
Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate and is
India‘s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is also the largest
exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia,
Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader among
ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its three brands – Park
Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.
Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over
58 countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From
winning the first ever Government of India award for outstanding export performances,
Raymond has continued to win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph
continues to rise higher…and higher.
Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The company
exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to leading denim
wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy
Hilfiger, etc.
European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland,
Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines,
Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The products that Raymond Exports
are:
Fabrics
100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of
finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra.
Blankets
100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels.
Garments
Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties, Socks
Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.
12
1.6 RAYMOND GROUP STRUCTURE
RAYMOND
GROUP
CMD
Group
Preside
Celebration Kamasutra
EverBlue
Apparel
Ltd
The
Thane Raymond
Manzoni Shop
Chindwara
Park
Avenue
Vapi
Parx
Jalgaon
ColorPlus
SSAL
Notting Hill
Be:
Zapp!
13
1.7 RAYMOND LTD. GAURIBIDANUR
Raymond Ltd. Gouribidanur was inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008.
This is a suits, jackets and trouser manufacturing plant.
The total area is 11 acres and the build-up area is 2, 00,000 sq. Feet.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, II is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd. marking
the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market.
The facility manufactures high end suits, formal trousers, jackets and vests catering
largely to export markets and are at par with best in class from USA and Europe.
The state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at the company's Gouribidanur plant
produces 6.06 lacks Jackets, 4.98 lacks Trouser & 0.46 lacks Vest coat annually.
Set-up at a total project cost of USD 10 million, the facility has a total built-up area of
9 acres feet and houses some of the highly rated equipment including CAD – CAM.
Over the years the facility has significantly invested in people and processes to win
numerous awards both on manufacturing front and winning culture which has been
widely recognized.
Raymond ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond
Group has become within a short period of time since its incorporation in 1925 a major
global conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set up as a textile Indian major and it has
always nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman and managing director of the group is
Gautam Hari Singhania.
The Label Raymond manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended
suiting to wool to shirting of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is
one of the leading group in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter
and prophylactics services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries,
and fabrics. The group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting that
cater to consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making
its mark in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever
Blue Apparel Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd
Suit Plant
14
15
Vision
Crafting world class formal wear and accessories for delivering “The complete man”
globally, whilst value adding to all the stake holders on a sustained basis.
Mission
Consistently manufacture quality garments with a global appeal and meeting the global
aspiration, always.
Create a paradigm shift in the quality of life under privilege sections of the community at
large by including and up skilling them, always.
Create a seamless and safe eco system of internal and external customers who would be
delighted to associate with us, always.
Contribute to the society by way of inventions for socio economic betterment particularly of
women, always.
16
1.8 INFRASTRUCTURE
CUTTING - The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & Morgan spreader and cutter
that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process
with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and fusing machines.
Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for
Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has
5 CNC cutters. Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed
to achieve intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and manual methods
are employed for cutting and spreading.
STITCHING - With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labour capable of
producing stylized garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech
infrastructure. The production lines are UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated
and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus,
Pfaff, DA, & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop
Attachment Machines, and Multi-Needle Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve
attaching machine.
17
FINISHING - Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinkle
free finishing. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are available to
ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty
finishing. There are 13 types of buck pressing machine for perfect finish.
INSPECTION - Silver spark has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the
latest equipment. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all
the products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not.
The experts thoroughly check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are
delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. That’s why
utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the products are faultless.
The business is headed by Plant Head who, further, has functional heads supporting him:
Production Merchandising Head
Quality Head
HR/Admin Head
The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering, Sewing
Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant Head.
The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising
Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in every
stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in the
three departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. The
Head (HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT
department.
The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and major decision
making in the departments.
18
Fabrics &
Trims
Spreading &
Cutting
Jacket Sewing
Sewing
Trouser
Sewing
Jacket Quality
Quality
Trouser
Quality
Director Plant Manager Warehouse
HR & Admin
IT
Purchase
Office
Functions
Planning
Accounts
EXIM
19
CHAPTER – 2
ORGANIZATION’S DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION
20
2.1 DEPARTMENTS AT SSAL-II
The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments.
Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of
Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 14 different
departments in Raymond Ltd. They are:
1. Merchandising Department
2. Sampling Department
3. Planning Department
4. Fabric & Trims Store
5. Cutting Department
6. Sewing Department
7. Finishing Department
8. Quality Assurance
9. Industrial Engineering,
10. Maintenance Department
11. Human Resource & Administration Department
12. Information Technology Department
13. Training Department
All these departments are related to the process of production. The working of departments
and involved processes of production is explained further.
21
Process flow of the industry
Order
Order received Product Production
confirmation
from SSAL Merchandising Merchandising
at SSAL
Sewing Finishing
Sewing Finishing
Quality Quality
Department Department
Checking Checking
Customer
Shipment Warehouse Packing
or Buyer
22
2.3 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Garment sampling is very important process. It is a model of what the bulk production to be
manufactured. The buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality
of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing
because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product that would be
manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples,
this puts the following at risk:
Placement of the order
Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced
The sampling department is in constant touch with the merchandising department, which is in
contact with the Head Office where the order is confirmed. The buyer supplies the
specification sheet depending on which the patterns are developed.
Objectives
Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced.
The Sampling Department develops the sample product from the base patterns which
are sent to the buyer for approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in
the sample of product then the buyer informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the
Sampling Department to make the necessary changes in the sample product as per
requirement.
Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions, quality, fabric and
trims of the style.
Checking and analysing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production
department.
The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to
produce the garment.
The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that
particular garment.
Based on the sample garment the costing is been carried out.
When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling
Department forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the
approved pattern to the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment
Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the
23
following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining
to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim, etc. they have
used (if applicable).
Ref no. and Style no. / Size
Colour
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Operating procedure
Sewing In-Line
Finishing
SCR fill
24
Style meeting
Sampling head conduct style meeting along with the Sampling Head
Pattern Makers, Spreading and Cutting, Head of Sewing Line, IE of Sewing Line, Quality
Department, Finishing and the company merchant of that buyer, where they discuss all the
specifications and technical issues related to the sample development so as to meet buyer
requirements. Afterwards the process of sample development initiates.
The first sample to be developed is the Proto-Type Sample. After the development of Proto-
Type Sample, it is sent to the buyer for its approval and feedback. After approval of Proto
Type Sample, FIT Sample is developed for base size of the buyer and then sent to buyer for
inspection and feedback related to fit of the product. Thereafter, Merchant receives the
feedback from the Buyer forwarded by the Head Office. The modifications suggested by the
buyer are improvised on the Size-Set Sample developed after FIT Sample.
Size-set sample is followed by a Size-set meeting which involves all members of Style
meeting for discussion on the buyer comments and to meet the buyer requirements. Size set
sample is not sent to the buyer, it is made by the factory for its own reference. Size-set
sample development is followed by Pre-production sample which is developed using actual
fabric and trims. Pre-production sample is then sent to the buyer for its final approval,
meanwhile the production of the garment in sewing line is initiated.
TOP Samples are sent to the buyer from the bulk production to bring to his knowledge the
quality of product being manufactured. These samples are sent only on buyer demand.
Note: All the samples for jacket and waist coat are developed in the sewing line itself while
trouser samples are developed in the sampling department.
25
Types of samples
1. Proto sample
This is the first sample being prepared from substitute fabric in only one size. This
sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some case to buyer itself. The pattern prepared
for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This sample is prepared just to
get the garment outlook and size.
2. Fit sample
Fit samples are those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These
samples are needed to check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made
available in similar fabrics in the actual measurements and specifications. In this
sample, all the technical specification of the product are mentioned. The accurate
dimensions of the garment are also specified.
3. Size set samples
This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit of different sizes of the
garment. In all sizes one sample is kept for reference.
4. Pre-Production samples
These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are made in actual fabric
with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. The
Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter
checked and then sends it to the buyer.
5. Top samples
This is the sample been prepared in the production line during production hours. One
or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how it is
being stitched in the production line. Although none of the buyer’s demand a TOP
sample in this unit.
6. Garment package test
The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer
spec sheet. Colour fastness, strength, crocking of the sample in testing is done.
26
2.4 PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Planning is done in excel sheet instead of any software.
Workflow
Once Tentative Planning is done it is updated on a daily basis during VSM Meeting.
27
2.5 FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
Structure of the Department
store
executive
production
store In-
and quality
charge
engineer
assistant store
keeper
28
Table 1: Types of Material Stored
29
Material Stacking and Tracking System
A wooden board is manually maintained to keep a track on the available materials. It is a
representation of 750 Racks of material on a single wooden board where racks are divided
into 26 sections presented in the alphabetical format from A-Z.
The cards have the name of the buyer written over them with marker where the colour of card
depict different forms of material such as:
Table 2: Material Stacking Board Card Details
(Sampling: The rack where the materials are stored in advance for the Sampling)
Material Stacking and Tracking System is updated on a daily basis at 10.00 am to 11.00 am.
Uses
Easy allocation and Tracking of materials
Easy to maintain Audit Report for the materials
30
Figure 6: Material Stacking and Tracking System
31
Figure 7: Layout of Fabric Store
32
Process flow of the Fabric Store:
Unloading
Bale opening
4 point inspection
Bar-coding
12 parameter inspection
Receive requisition
33
Fabric Inspection Procedures
100% Quality inspection in fabric is carried out by skilled manpower for Jackets and
Trousers.
The system is followed for inspection based on 12 Parameters:
Table 3: 12 Parameter Test
34
Shade Band Card
The cut fabric pieces are grouped or categorised in A, B, C, and D as per the shade band
family of all rolls.
Face Side Approval
Face side of fabric is ensured against the “Approved swatch card” as it is provided by the
concerned merchant.
This process ensures that spreading is done as per face marking to meet the customer’s
requirement.
Shrinkage
Steam Shrinkage is carried out 5% for different types of fabric so as to avoid any deviation
from actual pattern of the garment during exposure to heat and moisture i.e. pressing and
finishing.
Fusing Shrinkage:
Fusing temperature/pressure/time depends on the fabric content as well as type of fusing.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend): 2-2.5%
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product: 2.5-3.5%
Shrinkage %= (Before Dimension - After Dimension) * 100/Before Dimension
(Shrinkage Template is Calibrated Monthly)
NAP Direction
Nap is a type of fabric that has texture to it and some kind of pile. Fabric consider to be with
nap would be velvet, velour, corduroy, and suede. If the fabric has nap, one needs to be
careful in laying out the pattern pieces so that the grain line is all going in one consistent
direction.
Width Report
Width of 100% rolls is measured of the received lot.
Standard Acceptance against specified width (+- 2cm)
Colour Fastness
To check the fabric with Perchloro Ethylene and steam water separately for colour fastness.
The assessment is being done by visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast
between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences represented.
Colour fastness is also checked by with wet rubbing in order to determine the resistance of
the colour to rubbing.
Colour fastness is also checked with dry rubbing in order to determine the resistance of the
colour to rubbing.
35
Hand Feel
At the time of face side approval, hand feel is also being checked against the approved
swatch card.
Bowing & Skewing
Bowing refers to the Defect which relates to the placement of any object Non parallel to the
straighten yarn in cloth structure. Skewing is the fabric condition resulting when courses are
angularly displaced from line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric
Sponging
Sponging is done to control shrinkage in the wool and wool blend fabric. It is a process
during which the fabric is passed over a steaming table under minimum tension, followed
immediately by a suction table to cool the fabric and remove excessive moisture.
CSV
1 2 3 4
Above is the sequence for centre to selvedge variation testing.
3 1 4 2
2 4 1 3
The cut parts are re arranged in the above manner.
Seam Slippage
Seam Slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at the seam, causing gaps or
holes to develop. It involves warp and weft threads pulling apart, but not yarn breakage.
Standard to check seam slippage is 25Lbs=11.3Kgs
36
Types of Machines in Fabric Department
Table 7: Machines in Fabric Department
37
Figure 9: Relaxation Machine
38
2.5.2 TRIMS DEPARTMENT
Objective:
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory
Types of trims
Sewing Trims:
Finishing Trims:
Plant Manager
Asst. Plant
Manager
Executive
Executive
Cutting - Officer CAD
Cutting -Jacket
Trouser
CAM/Cutting CAM/Cutting
Operator Operator
Department Capacity:
1. Jackets
Solid: 3500 Pieces/day
Checks: 3150 Pieces /day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces /day
2. Trousers
Solid: 3600 Pieces / day
Checks: 3000 Pieces/ day
2.6.1 CAD DEPARTMENT
At SSAL-II CAD department is responsible for planning and assisting in the fabric cutting
process. The department needs product information and bill of material from merchandising
department. Then digitize patterns from pattern development department. CAD department
uses 9 parameter fabric report from fabric store for planning a particular order. There are
various easy to use software which simplify the work of cutting and planning.
Flow chart 9: CAD work flow
Software Uses
Gerber version 8.2 Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making
Cut issue & FCR generator Cut issue slip, Final cut report
Workflow
1. Fabric is received from fabric store department along with following details:
Length of rolls
2. Spreading operator receive lay report from CAD consisting of following details:
Purchase Order
Style Number
Lay Number
Lot quantity
Marker length
Lay length
No of plies to be spread
Consumption
3. Spreading operator starts laying and in case of machine spreading, operator loads
fabric roll in the cradle of machine and set the machine parameter as per lay details.
4. After completion of each roll; operator have to mention following details in spreading
/ laying report:-
Roll reference number
Fabric roll width
Fabric usable width
Fabric roll length
Colour /shade code
Usage in meters
Balance quantity
No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with
white chalk
Laying
1. Manual Spreading:
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, is supported by a frame
and carried along the table where the end
is secured with the help of weights. After
laying one ply operator use rotary blade to
cut the end of the ply and then lay another
ply and so on. The operators work back
from the end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension and that Figure 15: Manual Spreading
2. Machine spreading:
In Machine spreading first of all fabric roll is installed on the spreader and then end of the
fabric is hold by the catcher. As it lay the first ply, operator ensures that there are no wrinkles
in the ply and after laying one ply, end cutter cuts the end of ply and spreader moves to
spread next ply.
Spreading Machine
Gerber SY 101TT- 2 machines
Morgan Razor – 1 machine
Spreading machine includes:
A motor to drive.
A platform on which the operator rides.
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher
to hold the ends of ply in place.
A ply counter.
An alignment shifter actuated by photo
electric edge guides.
Spreading Modes:
• For Trousers
Solid: Face up
Checks and stripes: Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face up
• For Jackets
Shell(Solid, Checks and Stripes): Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face to face
Sleeve lining:
o Stripe: Face to face
o Solid: Face up
Pin table used for spreading check and striped fabric.
Pinning
Pinning is an additional step required for plaid matching (stripes and checks). In such cases,
Spreading is done on pinning tables. Pinning table consists of intermediate rows and columns of
needles /pins which were so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the
means of hand wheel. There were indications in the marker about the places where the plaid
matching is required and length from zero position will be given.
After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to cutting process. During
transportation, the fabric lays are held together with the help of clamps to make sure that the
alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy transportation.
2.6.3 CUTTING
Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic Gerber cutter; and manual
cutting with the help of scissor in case of recutting.
After cutting, bundles are placed on numbering table for numbering / ticketing. Before cutting, a
poly sheet is laid on the lay, on which size of panels is mentioned. Numbering is done for lining
fabric panels while ticketing is done for shell fabric which have small stickers that includes size
and serial number of the panel. Operator do numbering /ticketing with the reference of lay report
which consists of information like:
o Lot number.
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
Digit Nomenclature
1 First number of waist size
2 Second number of waist size
3 First number of inseam size
4 Second number of inseam size
5 to 10 Serial number
For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.
Digit Nomenclature
1 Number of front buttons
2 Fixed alphabet ‗S‘, that stands for size
3 to 5 Jacket size
6 to 8 Serial number of panel
For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order
quantity. As per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies.
2.6.5 INSPECTION
Quality checking is an essential process for checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on
weaving defects. This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is
checked for the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk
parts on graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting
process and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-cutting,
where parts are cut manually.
(a) Cut panel pattern inspection: Operator is to inspect panel against respective
pattern for
o Size
o Shape of panel
o Notch
.
(b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator has to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual
panel is to get inspected for following defects: -
o Yarn defects,
o Weaving defects,
o Finishing defects,
o Cutting defects, and
o Spreading defects.
Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.
Operator has to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in ‘Check
Point Format‘. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to re-cutting section by
maintaining record of following details in internal re-cutting format.
Purchase Order
Style name
Colour
Part Name or Number
Lay number
Serial number
Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective
panel of a lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection
section. Operator has to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a
record before issuing to sewing section.
Points to be noted during inspection:
Back Panel
o Size shape & notch
o Back panel to collar
o Back panel to back panel centreline
o Back panel to side panel
Sleeve
o Size, shape and notch
o Top sleeve to under sleeve
Lapel
o Size, shape and notch
o Lapel to lapel
o Lapel to front panel
Waist band
o Right waist to left waistband
o Left waistband to left extension
Note: Solid fabric inspects size, shape & notch. Checks & Strips inspects size, shape, notch &
matching point as mentioned above.
2.6.6 RE-CUTTING
Re-cutting was being done for defective or damaged panels in cutting. Generally darning was
also done in the same area. Re-cutting was generally done for the missing pieces from cutting,
i.e. panels which had some fabric related issues.
2. Part Fusing-They were basically non-woven fusing, which were fused at different part of the
panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap
etc. They are generally white or charcoal in color.
3. NR Fusing- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing.
They are used to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder
.They are generally white or black in color.
4. White Fusing – This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are
as buyer requirement.
Fusing Machines:
There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket components and rest 2
for trouser panels. The fusing machines used for jacket fusing are as follows:
ManPower for Fusing: There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 1 operator for collecting
these parts. The distribution for each part is as follows:
Feeding:
Front – 3 Operators
Back and top-sleeve – 3 Operators
Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator each
Lapel – 1 Operator
Small Parts – 1 Operator
Note- Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap.
Operator is to observe lay report to know following details:
o Lot Number
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
o Serial number
Waist Band
Right And Left Fly
Bone
2.7 SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This is the
place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is loaded to
the sewing department for the sewing.
THE SEWING SECTION AT SSAL II COMPRISED OF:
1. Jacket Lines
2. Trouser Lines
There were 8 jacket lines out of which Line 7 was involved in manufacturing jacket and 1 for
waistcoats. Trouser section had 6 lines. Each line had a Production Executive, Line Incharge,
Quality Checker and an Industrial Engineer.
DEPARTMENT CAPACITY:
Jackets: 3500 Pieces/day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces / day
Trousers: 2900 Pieces /day
TOTAL 20 Front 2
Side body 2
Table 18: Total Parts of a Jacket Top sleeve 2
Small Parts 20 Under sleeve 2
Lining Parts 29 Cigarette pocket lining 1
Shell Parts 20 Welt pocket 2
Parts Fusing 14 Front arm tape 1
Reinforcement 3 Flap lining 2
Knitted Fusing 5 Triangle flap 1
TOTAL PARTS (JKT) 91 Cigarette pocket bone 1
Cigarette pocket face 1
In pocket facing 2
In pocket bone 2
Pocket face 2
Sweat shield 4
TOTAL 29
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES USED IN A BASIC JACKET
1) Shoulder pad
2) Thread
3) Satin tape
4) Size label
5) Neck label
6) Content/Care label
7) Sleeve label
8) Main label or brand label
9) Bridle tape Felling tape
10) Armhole tape
11) Double sided fusing with paper
12) Double sided fusing without paper
13) Poly bag
14) Hanger
Breast pckt Breast pckt Side panel Side panel Armhole tape
bone ready bone att. seam press seam open attach
Breast pckt Breast pckt Coin pckt Flap pckt Flap pressing
cut & press zigzag welting welting att
Pckt bag Breast pckt Welt pressing Coin pocket Flap making
tacking bag att. pressing
Pckt basting Pckt bag Chest canvas Bridal tape Chest canvas
closing parts stitch att fusing
3. COLLAR SECTION
Lining Lining
Elbow Inseam Inseam Button
Attach to Inseam
Tacking Press Close Sew
Shell Sew
Sleeve
Sleeve Sleeve
Gathering
Tacking Final Press
Stitch
Flow Chart14: Sleeve Section Flow
5. ASSEMBLY SECTION
NOTE: Process flow may vary from style to style as per buyer requirements.
Sleeve
Lapel Buck Sleeve A/H SH Pad
Head Roll Basting
Press Attach Pressing Attach
Attach
Lining
Sleeve Collar SH Basting
Vent Kinari A/H Close Bastingat
Kinari Topstitch At A/H
A/H
B/H &
Hanger Bartack at
Flowerhole B/H Trimming Inspection
Marking Loop B/H End
Number of operations vary from style to style and also includes helping operations.
NO. OF PANELS IN WAISTCOAT
Table20: Waist Coat Shell Parts Table 21: Waist Coat Lining Parts
4. ASSEMBLY SECTION
In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment are made and graded for the production.
Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser
are made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall
trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material flow is on manually
controlled overhead trolleys.
Right Fly
Front Pocket Front Pocket
Attach to Left
Bag Close TopStitch
Fly
Flow Chart 20: preparatory flow of trouser
3. ASSEMBLY 1
4. ASSEMBLY 2
Asst. Plant
Manager
Production Production
Executive Executive
I.E I.E.
Technical
Manager
Quality
Executive
Line Incharge
Operators
The finishing facility at Raymond is highly mechanised with modern state of art machinery. It is
used for both jackets as well as trousers. The finishing process for jackets and trousers is as given
below:
Mr.Deepak
Kumar
(Jacket
Finishing Head)
Mr.Deodut
t (I.E)
Mr. Manish
Mr.Murgan
Kumar Mr.Ramavatar
(Supervisor
(Supervisor (Supervisor)
)
)
Auditing Packing
WASHING OF GARMENT:
1. Tools used:
Air gun/chemical gun
Boiler water/ per-chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit.
2. Functions:
To remove white pencil mark per-chloro ethylene is used.
To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used
PRESSING:
Sleeve press
Back press
Front press
Elbow press
Shoulder press
Collar press
Nipping(under armhole press)
Blocking(outer armhole press)
Lining press
Lapel press
PACKING:
Brand tag.
Size ring.
Joker tag.
Hanger sticker.
Poly bag
Sleeve label
Hang tag
Extra Buttons (2 buttons ; 1- 24L and 1- 32L)
Mr.Anappa
Supervisor
PROCESS FLOW
No. of Trouser Finishing Lines: 6
Trouser Finishing Capacity: 600
It involves the following steps:
Thread Thread
Legger
Trimming sucking/Dusting
TROUSER QUALITY
For Trousers the following are the Quality Check points:
In file all the documents related to the Product is to be present which are essential in order to
proceed for correct Quality Product which are as follows:
1. RAM REPORT
2. SIZE SET REPORT
3. BOM
4. FABRIC SWATCH CARD
5. THREAD SHEET
6. TECHPACK
7. APPROVED TRIMS CARD
8. P.O SHEET
9. BUYER COMMENTS
10. SIZE SET COMMENTS, IF ANY
1. Defect Report:
a. Alteration Tracking
b. Bi-hourly Quality in charge signature
c. Defect Entry
d. DHU & FTT Calculation
e. Production & Quality In charge Signature
2. Measurement Report:
a. Minimum 20pcs to be measured every day.
b. How to measure to be followed as per buyer requirement.
TROUSER SEWING QUALITY – SOP
warehouse
Incharge
assistant
warehouse
incharge
Quality audit
Dispatch
Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stage of the production. The Quality
Assurance Department‘s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and
trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout the cutting and sewing processes. After each section the quality checks are done and
in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of
any defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing.
ORGANIZATION CHART
Cutting
Mubharak
Jacket Sewing
R. K. Das
Trouser Sewing
Debsopan
Jacket Finishing
Nikhil/Deodutt
Trouser Finishing
Ram
Flow Chart 32: Quality Organizational Chart
QC IN STORES
Quality in store
Quality in fusing
To check sorting
Quality in sewing
Quality in finishing
1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting.
2. The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness.
3. There should not be any wrinkle at the under arm.
4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper fullness.
5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked.
6. Balance and fullness is to be checked in the vent(s).
7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back.
8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less.
9. Back side seam should be checked for puckering.
10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering.
JACKET INSIDE:
Grade change
Line balancing
Mr.Raghvendra
Kulkarni
IE HEAD
CUTTING SEWING
Ms.Priyanshi
Jacket Trouser
Singh
On order procurement,
IED calculates the thread
consumption & trim
consumption.
On order
confirmation,IED
prepares Operation
Bulletin
Sends requirement of
operators , machines &
folders to PPC .
Requirement of
machines,folders &
guides sent to
Maintenance dept.
Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network. All the
data is stored in their database called ITPC and for mailing purposes employees were using
Office Outlook.
2.13 TRAINING DEPARTMENT
Unit have their own training department named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This
department falls under the HR section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through
this they try to improve the skills of operators without hampering the output of the factory. In
Raymond they train the employees in such a way that they achieve the desired output.
STAGE II
In the second stage the operators perform paper exercises. In this they are provided papers with
different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the patterns on the paper. This is
done in order to improve the operator’s control on the machine. These paper exercises are
evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the performance operators were given
promotions.
STAGE III
In this stage the operators stitch on fabric. Different patterns are made on the fabric and operators
have to stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are
forwarded to the next stage.
STAGE IV
In this stage, operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different types of
special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe the operators
working in the line.
STAGE V
In this stage, operators are on job training on any critical operation based on requirement like Zig
Zag, blind hem, sleeve attach, bar tack, differential feed, basting etc.
PRE-RECRUITMENT TESTS
Before recruiting operators, they came across by some of the tests like:
Colour
Blindness test
Hand Movement test
Written Test
To check the ability of the Hand and Arm movements, two hands co-ordination test is
done.
HR
Manager
Manager Officer
HR Admin
Office
Office HR &
Officer T&D Receptionist Assistant
Welfare
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
Preventive maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of
breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to prevent the failure of
equipment before it actually occurs. It is designed to preserve and enhance equipment reliability
by replacing worn components before they actually fail.
ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
Maintenance
Head
Store In Floor
Charge Incharge
Operators Technicians
MACHINE DETAILS
No.
No.of
S.No. TYPE MAKE/MODEL of S.No. TYPE MAKE /MODEL
M/C
M/C
SEWING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
1 PFAFF-1483 144 37 Flatbed basting PFAFF - 1243 9
HIGH LEAD
38 Auto Dart 3
2 SNLS( drop feed) With GK00-58 4 PFAFF- 3519
UBT DURKOPP
HIGH LEAD 39 Auto Facing ADLER 271-992- 6
3 GC188MD 12 001
DURKOPP
40 Auto Welting ADLER 745 14
4 SNLS( needle feed) PFAFF-1481 40 PREMIUM
With UBT DURKOP
ADLER 220-5300 41 Auto Serging DURKOP ADLER 4
5 NR 12 1465-4
DURKOPP
SNLS( differential
ADLER 275-140- 42 4
feed) With UBT
6 342 44 MAIER D-73253
DURKOPP
ADLER 697-151- 43 Blind Hem MAIER-251-12- 3
7 55 15 46-D
DURKOPP
SNLS( unison feed)
ADLER 697-241- 44 1
With UBT
8 55 3 STROBEL
DURKOPP
ADLER 550-16- 45 6
9 26 15 WEISHI AZT-B46
10 PFAFF-3822 9 46 WEISHI AZT-C10 3
SNLS EDGE DURKOPP
CUTTER BUCK
ADLER 272-740- 47 WEISHI AZT- 18
11 642 3 C26A
SNLS FLAP Making JUKI- DDL-8700-
48 22
12 with LOIVA MJ-3400 7 4 WEISHI AZT-O18
13 NIKATA 4 49 WEISHI AZT-C36 18
DNLS Ordinary BUCK BOTTOM
50 3
14 TYPICAL 4 PRESS MACPI -362.00
BUCK FLAP
51 TURNING & 2
15 PFAFF-2438 3 PRESSING M/C MACPI-144.00
BUCK SHOULDER
52 3
16 PFAFF-3704 2 PAD FUSING M/C WEISHI AZT-F65
ZIGZAG WEISHI YTP-
53 22
17 PFAFF-918 3 W28
FIT
WEISHI YTP-
54 31
18 PFAFF-937 3 W28B
FIT SHAPED WEISHI YTP-
55 20
19 PFAFF-983 3 IRONING TABLE W20
20 SNCS PFAFF-3801 6 56 FUSING MACHINE WEISHI NHJ-Q-B 2
PFAFF-3801(with
57 ZIP CUTTER 1
21 tape feed) 3 YKK-E-78000
SLIDER &
58 STOPPER YKK 4
22 DNCS TYPICAL 4 attachment
HIGH LEAD FLAT BED FUSING
59 KANNEGIESSAR 1
23 GK00-58-3 8 MACHINE
24 3TH. O/L TOYOTA EK1-3 1 CUTTING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
TYPICAL -GN-
4TH. O/L Ordinary 1 STRAIGHT KNIFE EASTMAN 2
25 2000-4 1
26 5TH. O/L JUKI MO-6716S 35 2 BAND KNIFE WASTEMA 6
KANSAI
Flat Lock SPECIAL-B- 3 ROUND KNIFE EASTMAN 10
27 2000C 1
DURKOPP
ADLER 510 4 GERBER 4
28 Bartack PREMIUM 22 CAM
BROTHER BF-
5 MORGAN 1
29 438D 1
30 Button sew C/S PFAFF-3307 3 FUSING -- DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
BROTHER BE- FLAT CONT.
1 KANNEGIESSER 7
31 438C 1 FUSING
Button sew L/S DURKOPP
ADLER 530 FINISHING - - DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
32 PREMIUM 9
DURKOPP
ADLER 580 1 VACCUM TABLE WEISHI 26
33 Button hole PREMIUM 10
AMF REECE-S- STAIN REMOVING
2 MACPI 10
34 4000 2 W/S
35 Button wrapping LOIVA ST-10 8 3 BUCK WEISHI 55
HENGTAI GL- DUSTING
Pick stitch 4 RAMSON 3
36 798A 15 MACHINE
Bibliography