Dog Aggression Guarding Training

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Leader of the Pack

Do these sound like your dog?
Plays catch me games? (With toys, your cell phone, when they need
discipline, to entertain themselves, to avoid going in the crate?)
Bites at your heels, pant leg, hands?
Tries to "hump" you and anyone in your house?
Only listens and obeys when there is nothing else happening?
Urinates or poops on your bed?
Growls or attacks you or refuses to move when you move them from a
specific location?
Won't listen when you try to train them to do something new?
Runs over you, your family and your guests?
Is over protective of their toys and food?
Won't come when called the first time or with distractions?
Do you let your dog?

Go upstairs, downstairs and through doorways first?
Eat first?
Sleep in bed with you?
Talk back to you if you try to move them off of the couch, bed, kitchen
table?
Jump on furniture any time they want?
Have toys lying all over the house?
Jump on you and everyone else without being given the command
"paws up?"
Jump into your vehicle without permission?
Poke at you, bark or steal things to get your attention?
Free feed with food available at all times?
If you or your dog do two or more of these, your dog is the leader of your pack and
you are the Omega. You need to make some changes and put in some hard work
to get the wonderful canine citizen that you want. To regain your leadership
position, you need to work with a pack mentality. The steps are subtle and will
work if you stick with them, but you can't stop practicing once your dog responds.
As soon as you forget and get lax, your dog will resume their position as pack
leader.
Your dog will continue to test your leadership ability to see if you really say what
you mean. The quantity of testing lessens with time, and become far less frequent
once the dog gets to be about five years old.
Leadership Training
Take your dog to an obedience class or hire a private trainer to work with the two
of you. Check out any school or trainer you are considering. Go and see how they
train and what they offer. Avoid classes that use treats all the time or coercion all
the time. Neither of these methods teach your dog to work from their heart which
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the time. Neither of these methods teach your dog to work from their heart which
will make your dog more reliable and more fun to train.
No Such Thing as a Free Lunch

From this point forward, you need to run the pack. Nothing is ever given for free.
Your dog must earn everything it gets. No free-for-all petting fests, make your dog
sit first. Use both verbal commands and hand signals for the sit. (With your right
hand palm facing upward, drop your hand below the dog 's nose and lift upwards,
like you are lifting a weight, toward your shoulder, bending your elbow. Keep your
hand about one hand length away from your dog's nose and remember never
touch the dog with any hand signal.) Once the dog is sitting, you may pet them. If
the dog gets up, stop petting and ask for the sit again. If the dog doesn't sit on the
first request, ask them to sit and then place them into the sit. You can also use a
leash and collar to help them understand this is not a plea, but a command
performance. If your dog refuses to comply, do not yell. Keep your voice steady
and calm, like you are giving someone driving directions. The more your dog
ignores you, the deeper and slower your voice should become. Because you are
working diligently on this reprogramming, your dog is now sitting for everything.
Sit to greet you, sit to greet your guests, sit to be fed, sit for petting, sit before
chasing a favorite toy, sit before going inside or outside, sit before getting into the
car. It has become one big sit-in. You are seeing your dog become more
controllable and you are starting to rise into the Alpha position in your pack.
Bondage Indoors
Keep a leash on your dog inside for at least the first two weeks. You'll know they
are improving when they start listening better. At first snap or tie the leash to you.
Now you are in charge. Your pet will start listening to you and becoming more
familiar with the words you use when you want a response from them. Having the
dog attached to you also lets you correct the dogs mistakes without chasing him
all over the house. Once they start improving and becoming more consistent, you
can let them drag the leash around the house when you are around to supervise.
Again, you can correct more easily when the leash is available to step on and stop
the chase me games.
Bondage Outdoors
Use a 20-foot or 30-foot long line. This is a great way to teach your dog to come
the first time you ask. Teach the dog that there is no option but to pay attention to
you. Once the dog is familiar with working at a distance from you and has become
reliable because you are working at this for short periods several times a day, you
can let your dog drag the long line around with them while you supervise. Don't
rush through this step, take your time to be certain the dog understands all the
commands before removing the long line.
Food is Power
Set up a feeding schedule. If you free feed (food available all the time) stop right
now. You need to be in charge of the feeding schedule. For adults dogs, feed
once in the morning and once in the late afternoon or early evening. Dogs are
concerned with very few things which mostly consist of eating, sleeping, playing
and reproduction. If they can accomplish these things on their own, why do they
need you? Setting a feeding schedule (challenge feeding ) teaches your dog that
they need to rely on you, creates an appetite so your dog will look forward to
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they need to rely on you, creates an appetite so your dog will look forward to
feeding and will therefore enjoy the food more and you will be gaining pack status
without working too hard.
You Always Eat First

Your pet needs to see you eat before you feed them. What you eat is not
important, it is the ritual of eating first that counts. You can eat an ice cube, a
baby carrot, donuts, cookies, fruit, bread, anything works. (Don't use this as an
excuse to fall off the healthy diet wagon.) Bottom line, your dog needs to see you
eat. Pack rules dictate that the leaders (Alphas) always eat first. The pack eats in
sequence starting with the Alpha and working through the ranks to the Omega.
Will Work for Food

Have your dog sit before you put the bowl down. Once the dog sits, set the food
bowl down. Your dog should wait for your okay before eating. Your dog can't eat
unless you have given the go ahead. The word you choose doesn't matter, just
use it consistently. (Some choices could be: eat; chow; dinner; feeders.) Make
certain your dog really is waiting for the go-ahead to eat. Practice using different
lengths of time before allowing your dog to eat.
Table Manners
The instant your dog leaves the food dish, pick it up (even if there is food in the
dish) and put it away until the next feeding. (If you are feeding with canned food
or wetting the food, throw out the remainder or place it in the refrigerator.) You
want your dog to understand that while the dish is down it is time to eat and once
he leaves the bowl that dinner is over. This helps create good manners in your
dog.
Toy Collector
Pick up all your dog's toys and place them in a basket or plastic container and
then put the container in a closet. You are in control of the toys, and never have
more than two toys available at any time. Toy rotation keeps all your toys more
interesting to your dog. If your dog has toys strewn all over the house, they have
effectively told you in dog lingo that the entire house is their territory. By gathering
up the toys and keeping them, you now control the fun and the house is now your
territory and you can allow your dog the privilege of playing when you think it is
appropriate. (Toy collecting will also reduce tripping and swearing in the middle of
the night.)
Sweet Dreams
If you allow your dog to sleep on the bed with you or be on the furniture with you,
you are telling them they are your equal. If they think they are equal to you, their
is no hierarchy and thus no pack leadership role for you. As equals, they don't
need to listen to you or respect you. Dogs that are well behaved and have no
"issues" can sleep with you and be on your furniture, but a dog with "issues"
must not be on equal footing with you. If you want to lay down and pet your dog,
get on the floor at their level. In their world this is an honor for you to get on the
floor with them. When they come up to your level, the dog quickly figures out that
they are wonderful and you are pond scum. At this point, playing and cuddling are
down on their level. Once you have Courteous Canine, you can invite your pet to
come up and play or cuddle. Don't let them on the furniture without an invitation.
When you are done playing or cuddling, you ask them to get off and return to
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When you are done playing or cuddling, you ask them to get off and return to
their own level.
Up the Down Staircase and Out the Door

Always go upstairs, downstairs and through doors first. At the doorway have your
dog sit and wait. You go through the door first and then glance back and say "let's
Go." The same thing applies for up and down the stairs. Use "Let's Go" instead of
Come, Come means something entirely different. "Let's Go" means follow me
now. Don't turn and face your pet during this training step, just glance over your
shoulder and give your command in a cheerful voice.
Walk with Me
During all walks, have your dog walk with you in Heel position. (On your left side
with their head lined up with your pant leg seam.) Don't let your dog wander all
over in front of you, it teaches your dog not to respect your relationship. Walking is
a time for you to bond with your dog, to challenge your dog's mind and to teach
your dog to walk pleasantly next to your side. A dog that is allowed to race all over
ahead of you will always have a problem of pulling on the leash. When your dog
has progressed far enough that he is almost trustworthy enough to stay by you off
leash, you can let them investigate (on leash) every once in a while. From the
exercise point of view, your dog is getting more exercise walking with you, in heel
position, then he does pulling on the end of the leash ahead of you.
Walk with Me and Investigate

At some point during your walk, stop in a nice spot, attach your retractable leash
or you long line to the collar, unhook your regular leash. Stand in one place so
your dog can check out the radius of the area you are standing in and let them
investigate and be a dog. When you are ready to continue walking, call your dog
and rehook the regular leash and then take off the retractable leash or long line
an continue your walk. When changing leashes, ALWAYS hook on the line you
want to use while the other leash is attached. Both leashes will be connected and
you can decide which one you want to remove. This will save you from chasing
your dog after they twist out of your grasp.
Your Dog Can Count

Do you find yourself repeating commands over and over and not getting the
response you want from your dog? This is a futile exercise that takes up a lot of
time and lets your dog know they are in total control. Don't plead with your dog to
do what you ask, and remember to only ask ONCE. Dogs have excellent hearing.
If you ask for a Sit and get no response, quickly place them into a Sit as you say it
one more time. In a clam tone, praise your dog. Remember to be sure you can
correct your dog if you ask for something and they don't comply with your wishes.
This way, your dog will learn to obey you the first time knowing that the second
request comes with a correction. Your pooch will stop ignoring you now.
Biting and Nipping are Never Okay

Biting and nipping are the highest of canine crimes. Putting teeth on a person is
never okay, and is the worst form domination towards people and it is not okay for
dogs at any age including puppies. By nipping, biting, mouthing, they are learning
to dominate you and get you to do what they want you to do. Be certain in the
knowledge that pups biting their mothers and littermates are corrected with a
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knowledge that pups biting their mothers and littermates are corrected with a
growl and possibly a snap if pup doesn't listen the first time. This is the process
dogs go through to learn who they can and can't dominate. Do not slap the dog's
nose or grab their mouth and hold it shut, all this does is exacerbate the problem.
To correct this in a simple fashion, you can fill a plant mister spray bottle with
water and set it to stream mode. Keep this near you and when your pup tries to
bite or nip, give them your best mom dog growly voice and say AAHH! No Bite!
(Your AAHH! should sound like a cat cacking up a big hairball.) If pup doesn't
back off from biting, spray the full force in the face with the water. When they back
off, tell them "Good" or "Thank You" in your best giving driving directions voice,
then redirect your puppy onto something else like going outside, appropriate chew
toy, different location and continue on your merry way. Don't pet or praise at this
point or you'll end up right back where you started. If the plain water has no
impact, you can add white vinegar or lemon juice to the mix. You can also buy
lemon juice in the plastic lemon from your grocery store. The plastic lemons fit
nicely into your hands and is quite portable. Wrap your hand around the ball with
your thumb covering the squirt opening. Your dog won't be able to see that you
are carrying it, and won't know when you are going to use the lemon, but they will
smell that you have the lemon. When your pup nips at you, squeeze the lemon
hard, and blast the juice into pup's mouth. While you are blasting, say in your
best growly mom dog voice, "AAHH! No Bite!" Just like above, redirect your pup
immediately after the lemon juice correction. Once you pup is improving and
listening to your words, you can reduce the amount of lemon (you can reuse the
lemon balls) or white vinegar in your mixture.
My Your Leg is Lovely

Most "humping" activity is dominance related and not of a sexual nature. Dogs of
both sexes from puppies to adults will "hump" while trying to be the Alpha. Some
dogs will stand still and allow this which lets the other dog know it is okay for them
to be dominant. Sometimes the "humpee" will dart out from underneath and try to
be the "humper." This tells the dog that they are not okay with someone else
being the dominant dog. There are times when dogs are evenly matched and it
can lead to a fight. If your dog tries this on you or anyone else stop it immediately.
This behavior is not cute, and remember not to laugh or plead in a high pitched
voice for your dog to stop. Both of those tell them they are doing something good.
Spray them in the face with your training spray bottle and say "NO!" "AAHH!" or
"BAD!" in your best deep, growly, mom dog voice. Put your dog in a down-stay for
3-5 minutes, then release them by going over and asking for a Sit and petting
them in a calm manner.
The Bed is Mine

If your dog is urinating on your bed, he is telling you in no uncertain terms that he
is dominant and the bed is his territory. If this is happening in your household,
keep your dog off the bed for at least 6 months. Keep your bedroom door closed
at all times so he can't sneak in there while you aren't looking, and to minimize the
battle of the bed. If you want your dog sleeping in the room with you, keep him in
a crate/kennel or tether him to the bed on a non chewable 2-3 foot lead to
encourage him to sleep on the floor by the bed. (If you get up in the middle of the
night, remember the dog is attached to the bed so you don't trip and fall.) If you
choose to let pup up on the bed after this period, he should only be allowed on
the bed when you invite him up. At any point where you want pup off the bed, he
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the bed when you invite him up. At any point where you want pup off the bed, he
should do so without an attitude or back talk. If you are having difficulty, keep the
leash on them and when you ask them to get off the bed, you can reinforce your
command by taking the leash and telling pup "Off!" while directing them down off
the bed. Tell your dog "Good" or "Thank You" when they get off the bed.
Conclusion
These clues will help you establish a leadership or Alpha role in your pack without
having to fight with your dig every step of the way. Remember to be consistent
and stick with it even when your dog tests his boundaries. Keep working with your
dog using pack mentality, common sense and fair, humane methods. The bottom
line is that you need to be smarter than your dog.
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Aggression
This information is not meant to "fix" your dog, but rather to provide general
information about aggression and some of the alternatives that are available to
you and your companion. If you need specific assistance, please contact us.
What's Going on with My Dog?

The are many different types of aggression, and the most common types are:
Dominant Aggression
Fear/Defensive Aggression
Learned Aggression
Territorial Aggression
DOMINANT AGGRESSION
These are generally sane, sound dogs, and will usually only bite if
you or someone else who threatens them try to place them into what
the dog perceives as a submissive position. This dog may also bite if
you do something that threatens the dog's position as the pack leader
or alpha dog.
FEAR/DEFENSIVE AGGRESSION
The fear aggressive or defensive aggressive dog bites because he is
shy or insecure, or as the name suggests, is fearful of the world and
situations he cannot understand.
LEARNED AGGRESSION
These dogs are smart and manipulative and have "learned" that
displaying certain behaviors will get the results the dog is looking for.
Which is usually to get everyone excited. In many cases, this dog will
mimic the behavior of other dogs, simply because they were doing it.
For example, younger dogs will often learn to bark at strangers during
a walk if an older dog is displaying this behavior, even if the older
dog's aggression is motivated by something else such as fear or
territoriality.
TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION
This dog becomes extremely hostile, bites your fence, jumps up and
down, yells, screams and otherwise creates a ruckus when someone
approaches what he perceives as his territory.
If You Need More Help

To be honest, if you're reading this, you probably are having an aggression
problem with your dog, and you need professional help.
Dog training, especially learning to train a dog with an aggression problem, is a

lot like learning to drive a car. Education is important, however, you can't really
learn how to drive a car by reading an article or a book. You need to get behind
the wheel, with Dad in the passenger seat telling you to press down on the
accelerator and when to apply the brake. After awhile you get the feel for it, and
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accelerator and when to apply the brake. After awhile you get the feel for it, and
pretty soon you are able to take the car out on the road by yourself. Training
dogs works the same way. You can read or hear how to do it, but unless you
really see how to work with the dog it is difficult to transfer theory into application.
Signs
You may think that your dog's aggression happens in an instant, however there
are always warning signs that a dog will display before he bites. It is impossible
for a dog to think one thing and not have it reflected in his body language. The
real secret is to learn how to read your dog's body language. This means you
must be aware and educated so you can detect and check aggression. A good
resource for body language is the book Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas.
Attitude
When trying to "fix" an aggression problem, having the right attitude will be one
of the key elements in your success. You must know intrinsically, that YOU, not
your dog are the ONE in control, the pack leader or alpha. YOU, not your dog,
will be the one to decide who gets barked at and who gets bitten. It all comes
down to assertiveness and knowing that you are not going to be a push over.
Your dog knows if you are afraid of him and/or afraid to correct his bad behavior.
Safety
Sadly, aggression isn't one of those things that just goes away by itself. In most
cases a dog's aggression if left unchecked will continue to worsen over time. The
reason is every time your dog acts aggressive, the behavior reinforces itself. In
many cases an aggressive response can almost become a habitual response.
The good news is that it's never to late to correct this behavior.
How Did This Happen?

Regardless of the type of aggression you dog may be displaying, there are really
only two reasons why your dog is acting this way:
Reason #1: Your dog does not see you as his pack leader. If he did,
you would tell him to sit and be quiet and he would respect your
wishes immediately. He would also respond to you, bond with you
and really want to please you in all other aspects of his life too.
Reason #2: You and your dog are speaking entirely different
languages. For example, many people pet their dog when the dog
shows aggression, thinking this "petting" will reassure the dog and
give him confidence. In reality, the dog thinks the owner is telling
them "Good Dog! Yes, that's very good, that's exactly what I want. Be
more aggressive." Therefore, the owner is inadvertently reinforcing the
unwanted behavior.
THREE THINGS YOU MUST KNOW ABOUT FIXING AGGRESSION
Timing: Timing is the dog's ability to associate either a positive or

negative outcome in response to a specific behavior. In this case, the
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negative outcome in response to a specific behavior. In this case, the

dog must understand that displaying aggression will be met with a
negative outcome, and he MUST be able to ASSOCIATE this negative
with the behavior. (In this case AGGRESSION.)
Consistency: Every time your dog exhibits a specific behavior, he

must get the same response. Take rose bushes, for example. Rose
bushes are protected by having thorns on them. Dogs will not jump
into rose bushes because every time they try, they will get pricked by
the thorns. In other words, they receive a negative association every
time they exhibit this behavior. Think black and white, but no shades
of gray.
Motivation: Most people know about timing and consistency, but

motivation is what separates the "big dogs" from those who sit on the
porch and watch. Being motivational simply means that everything
you do must have a reason and meaning. Let's say you were pulled
over for speeding and the officer were to issue you a ticket (a
CORRECTION) for speeding, but the ticket is for $2.00, that is not
motivational enough to get you to stop speeding. If the same ticket
cost you $2,000 you would probably stop speeding immediately
because the ticket had meaning and therefore was MOTIVATIONAL.
Make sure everything you do with your dog is motivational, whether it
is praise or correction.
In regard to aggression, your dog must associate a good, motivational correction

every time he displays his aggression. When he decides that showing aggression
is not in his best interest, give him lots of motivational praise to reward him.
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Corrections
Dog training does not have to be a mystery, you just need to anticipate what
your dog will do and seize the moment when he does it. If your corrections are
immediate, and you keep them short, precise and positive, your dog will know
right away what he did wrong. Corrections are meant to startle the dog, not
scare or hurt him.
The RIGHT Ways to Correct Your Dog
1. Build a good relationship with your dog.

2. Use a collar to make a correction.
3. Use positive reinforcement.
4. Correct at the moment your dog makes a mistake.
5. Use praise, attention, toys, food or a combination as rewards.
6. Be consistent with corrections.
7. Follow a correction with a chance to do it and get it right. Reward
him when he does so.
8. Rattle a loud, noisy object or use a "growly" voice to startle your
dog to keep him from doing something wrong.
9. Use a collar and leash when training outside.
10. Be comfortable correcting him around others.
The WRONG Ways to Correct Your Dog
1. Never hit with your hand, an object or something they have

chewed up.
2. Never shout or blame for not obeying your commands.
3. Never chase after your dog.
4. Never corner your dog.
5. Never jerk your dog's leash upward in anger, this can injure his
neck.
6. Never leave your dog locked up in a small dark room.
7. Never punish for something you didn't see him do.
8. Never withhold food or water for long periods of time.
9. Never do anything anyone tells you to do that you are not
comfortable with.
10. Never rub his nose in "it." This only encourages him to eat "it."
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Unintentional Reinforcement
Can your dog count? Why yes, she can! Think of the times you have asked your
dog to do something and it takes three or four times before they actually do what
you have asked. Is your dog stupid or stubborn? Probably not. Can your dog
count, absolutely yes! Whether you know it or not, you have very effectively
taught your pooch to do exactly what you want.
All animal training is based on reinforcement – intentional or unintentional.

Unintentional reinforcement occurs when you unknowingly reward or reinforce a
behavior that is undesirable. Most people do this with the very best intentions and
do not realize they are telling their dog to do exactly the opposite of what they
want it to do. For example, if you give your dog two commands and reinforce the
dog's obedience to the second command you have taught her to be disobedient
to the first command. Eventually, you begin reinforcing the third and then the
fourth command and before long you have unintentionally created the incredible
counting canine.
Does this sound like something you have experienced? The mail person rings
your doorbell and you tell pooch to STAY while you open the front door. You chat
with the postal carrier and pooch decides to wander off from the STAY. If you
ignore pooch, you have just unintentionally reinforced that STAY means wait a
minute and then get up and walk around. To help your training be more
successful, you need to become much more specific with your commands and be
correct your dog every single time she does something you haven't asked her
and don't want her to do.
Do you have a more timid dog? If so, you may all ready be an expert at
unintentional reinforcement. Imagine a new situation where your do is shy or
tentative about the activities around you and as a caring person, you reach down
with a gentle stroking and soothingly say "It's okay, sweetie. Good poochie." Your
dog understands your stroking and gentle voice quality to mean, "Great job! You
are doing just what I want you to do! I love it when you are shy and timid!" In an
instant, you have reinforced the shy, timid behavior that you were hoping to
discourage.
The same thing applies to aggressive dogs. While walking your dog a person
approaches and your dog is unsure of himself and may raise hackles or start
growling. The owner reaches down and strokes the dog talking in soothing tones.
Just like the shy, timid dog, this dog now knows that hackles and growling are
good and that you like when they treat strangers that way.
Barking dogs can be unintentionally reinforced too. The dog is in the yard,
barking and yapping up a storm and you bring him into the house so the
neighbors don’t complain. Bingo, you have just taught the dog that barking will
get them inside. Or how about this? Your dog is barking wildly in the yard and out
of your mouth comes a scream worthy of a fishmonger telling the dog, "SHUT
UP!" Weird isn’t it? Even an angry screaming from a distant window can you’re
your dog that is exactly what you desire. Lonely dogs, starving for attention even
welcome the horrible harsh corrections that their owners may dole out.
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Eliminating Unintentional Reinforcement
As with most things, the first step to eliminating any unwanted behavior is to
recognize that it is occurring. If you keep a chart for one week to track the dog's
behaviors you can quickly see any patterns that are developing. For the first half
of the tracking week, tally the number of times the behavior you wish to eliminate
occurs. Do not make any changes during this initial time period; just track the
behaviors. For the second half of the week, correct the behavior in your usual
fashion and keep track of the number of times the behavior occurs. Here's where
you’ll learn how to tell if your actions are correcting or reinforcing the behaviors. If
the frequency of the "problem" does not noticeably reduce by your action, then
you are not correcting the behavior. If the frequency of the "problem" is increased
by your action/correction then the action is reinforcing the behavior.
The next thing you need to accomplish is effectively correcting or changing the
unwanted behavior. Reinforced behavior will increase and behaviors that are not
reinforced will decrease and eventually disappear. Each time your dog presents
you with the problem behavior use it as an opportunity to train the behavior you
desire. This method will also show you areas that you and your dog need to work
on. If you use good leadership skills and pack management in conjunction with
positive reinforcement training you should be able to create a happy and
productive working relationship with your dog.
Remember to be consistent with your companions, they like it.
If you SAY IT, MEAN IT. If you MEAN IT, ENFORCE IT. Always PRAISE for
doing something right.
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Object Guarding: Common Dog Aggression Problems: Training http://www.petfinder.com/pet-training/reducing-dog-object-guarding.html
Object Guarding
Jacque Lynn Schultz, C.P.D.T., Companion Animal Programs Adviser. National Outreach
While out walking Bosco the beagle, you scan the sidewalks and streets with skills honed from years of living with an expert garbage monger. As you
pass the local butcher shop, the man at the counter offers you some beef marrow bones, but you decline. You're almost home free when a tennis ball
bounces across your path. In one fell swoop, Bosco seizes it in his mighty jaws and growls, "Mine!"
Food guarding, a form of canine possession aggression (CPA), was covered in the previous column "Mine!" In this one we discuss object guarding, the
act of aggressively protecting toys, chewies (especially rawhide and beef marrow bones), and stolen objects such as shoes, underwear, and human
garbage.
Why does a dog feel the need to protect an item from his family members? Because he thinks they are going to take it away! They've done it before,
haven't they? As a puppy, Bosco roamed the house investigating his environment by picking up everything he could with his mouth. If they caught
him in the act, they bellowed "No!" and removed the prize from Bosco's clutches. Every time he found a treasure, it was snatched away. Before long
Bosco upped the ante with a growl, then a snarl, and soon progressed to a full-fledged bite.
Down in the Mouth

Your dog should be used to having his mouth touched, so that when you wish to remove something from it, you won't get bitten. Start from
puppy-hood on—brush his teeth, play with his flews, open his mouth, and inquire, "Anybody in there?" Reward the acceptance of mouth handling
with a tasty treat or some play.
For dogs who have specific problems with items such as rawhide, purchase a foot-long retriever stick. Hold on to one end while the dog chews the
other. Bosco may not enjoy this as much as hiding under a table with it, but in time he will get used to your presence and relax.
The Big Switcheroo

It is important for the dog to view his handler as the provider of all good things. You can accomplish this by tightly controlling his environment. Keep
all but a few chew toys off the floor and take others out only when you wish to play. Make sure you offer the playtime-only item with a command
such as "take it." When you tire of the game (you, that is, not the dog), tell him to "drop it." Give him another item in exchange, then pick up the first
object and put it away.
To make a sweeter deal for Bosco, give him a "better" item in exchange for dropping the first. Find out what those better items are by composing a
hierarchy of things your dog enjoys; include food, toys, treats, and activities. If tennis-ball retrieving, for instance, is third on your dog's list, reward
him with liver (number two) for dropping the tennis ball. If he indulges in a bit of garbage from the street, command him to drop it and trade up to his
tennis ball.
In theory, human pack leaders should be able to take whatever they want from their dogs. But not all dogs play by these rules. In some households,
dogs believe they rule the roost. In others, the dogs' motives are unclear. Their actions may be based on fear or prompted by earlier experience. Try to
determine the triggers and avoid those situations so the dog doesn't gain confidence by successfully practicing the unwelcome behavior. Get
professional help before Bosco sends a loved one to the hospital. A certified dog trainer or applied animal behaviorist can carefully assess the situation
and design a protocol tailor-made for you and your dog.
1 of 1 7/20/2010 1:19 PM
Dog Guarding | Dog Time - What to do about dogs or puppies who get pos... http://dogtime.com/guarding.html
Dog Guarding
1 comment | Leave your own
comment
Guarding is when a dog

aggressively protects
something precious to
him--most commonly food,
toys, or a favorite spot in the
house (such as his bed). It's
triggered when a person or
animal gets so close that the
dog feels he's in danger of
losing this valuable resource.
Think of the Cocker Spaniel
who growls as you approach
his bowl of kibble or the
Retriever who snaps if you
reach for his chew toy.
Growling, lip curling, snarling,
direct eye contact, and
freezing in place are all signs
that a dog will snap or bite if
pushed past the point he can
tolerate.
Causes
The reason dogs guard their
resources is very
straightforward: they don't
want to lose something
valuable. Part of this is
instinctual--in the wild,
protecting one's hard-won
food was very important. But
the behavior can also be
learned: "The last time I let
that tennis ball out of my
sight, it was taken away--I'd
better not let anyone near it."
How to treat the

problem
Important: Working on an
existing guarding problem
can be dangerous. To avoid
getting bitten, don't do any
of these exercises without
the guidance of a skilled
dog behaviorist or trainer.
In most cases,
desensitization is the
preferred way to treat
guarding. Whether it's his
food bowl, a tennis ball, or
the chair by the window, the
idea is to create positive
1 of 4 7/20/2010 1:21 PM
idea is to create positive

associations between the
resource and the approach of
a person (or people).
Physically punishing, scolding,

or taking away the food or
toy does not work--these
techniques only reinforce the
idea that your dog needs to
be aggressive in order to
protect his resource.
To treat food guarding
Start the
desensitization
process at mealtime.
Keep a safe
distance--"safe"
meaning the distance
you must remain from
your dog in order for
him not to
demonstrate any
guarding behavior--and
offer him a treat he
finds utterly
irresistible. (The rule is
that the treat must be
something much more
exciting than the kibble
he's having for dinner.)
Allow him to take the
treat and return to his
meal.
Repeat this exercise
over the course of
many meals, gradually
moving closer and
closer to his food
bowl. Approach from
different angles and
vary the treats he
receives, and keep at
it until you can casually
meander right up to his
food bowl and drop in
a treat without any
aggressive displays
whatsoever.
To treat object
guarding
Begin when he's playing with

something that you know he's
not completely crazy about.
The key: don't start by
using his favorite toy.
With one hand, pick

up the toy.
2 of 4 7/20/2010 1:21 PM
up the toy.
At the same time, with
your other hand,
produce a treat from
behind your back. In
order to enjoy the
treat, he must release
the toy.
Return his toy to him
after he's finished his
treat.
Repeat this exercise
over many sessions,
varying your path of
approach, the type of
reward you give, and
the toy your dog is
playing with. Always
replace his toy with a
treat or toy of a higher
value, thereby
teaching your dog that
giving up something
good results in getting
something better.
To treat location
guarding
Approach your dog's

bed (or whatever spot
he guards) with a
high-value treat that he
can smell as you get
nearer.
Give him the treat
while he's still on his
bed. The idea is that
he'll start associating
something positive (the
treat) with a person
approaching him in his
special spot.
Over the course of
days and weeks, vary
the angle at which you
approach as well as
the types of treats you
offer.
Eventually, as your
dog becomes more at
ease, practice luring
him away from his
bed by using the most
desirable and delicious
treats.
All of these exercises usually

take weeks--desensitization
doesn't happen over the
course of just a few sessions.
How to prevent
3 of 4 7/20/2010 1:21 PM
How to prevent
the problem
The key is to start when your
dog is a puppy, so he learns
early on that you control the
resources. Teach the
commands "off" and "leave it"
and always reward with
something more valuable than
what you're asking him to
relinquish. Think of it as
preemptive desensitization:
even if he's in the middle of
dinner or chewing on his
favorite toy, your dog learns
that great things happen
when people approach. He
has nothing to worry
about--his prized resources
aren't going anywhere.
In addition, spay or neuter

your dog--it makes for an
all-around mellower pet, and
it helps reduce aggressive
guarding behavior.
Bottom line: Guarding is

born out of the desire to
protect such valuable
resources as food and toys.
Through systematic
desensitization, you can
safely teach your dog to be
comfortable and relaxed
around those resources, even
in the presence of humans.
4 of 4 7/20/2010 1:21 PM
When Your Dog Thinks He's Boss: Common Dog Aggression Problems: T... http://www.petfinder.com/pet-training/dog-dominance.html
When Your Dog Thinks He's Boss

Jacque Lynn Schultz, Director, ASPCA Special Projects
He decides where you go on walks, when you play and for how long, and on which side of the couch you sit. He interrupts phone conversations and
charges into new environments ahead of you. No, he's not an overbearing spouse or fast-track coworker, he's your dog. And without an immediate
attitude adjustment, this four-footed despot will be barking, "Off with their heads!" in no time.
Pushy canines come in all sizes, from the Lhasa apso who will not let you make the bed to the Rottweiler mix who grabs hold of your arm (with his
teeth) when you attempt to leave the park before he is ready. Many of these dogs are bold and overconfident and relish dominating both people and
other dogs. Some are reluctant leaders who take charge in a family when no one else assumes the mantle of pack leader. Most are males, although
females swell the ranks as well. Whatever the size, sex, or situation, these pretenders to the throne need to be put in their place via a benign yet
effective leadership program.
First, establish rules, and ensure that all household members are willing to comply with them, because consistency is crucial. Pushy dogs do not have
furniture rights. They must stay on floor level and sleep on dog beds, not human beds. Family members should not descend to floor level to wrestle
with the dog but, rather, involve him in play where he follows the rules—or the fun ends. A game of Frisbee or fetch, in which the toy is returned to
hand, is ideal.
No Free Lunch
A pushy dog needs structure. Obedience training can give both parties a common language through which to communicate. Once the dog knows a sit
and stay/wait command, it can be used frequently: during dinner preparation to control counter surfing and begging; before exiting homes, elevators,
or cars; when the dog wants to claim new territory ahead of his handler; and to accomplish tasks such as grooming and feet wiping, which most bossy
dogs disallow.
Teach a long "down in place" for some peace and quiet during and after dinner, and feed the dog after all humans have dined, as a gentle reminder of
his ranking in the family pack. Make the dog work for every treat, and exercise him on a schedule. Going out should not be his for the asking. It is
imperative to take into account the dog's developmental stage and activity level when establishing a schedule that will meet his needs.
Leader of the Pack

While out walking, take charge by using controlled walking and heeling commands. Give the dog plenty of feedback on his performance, praising the
good and warning him before he gets into trouble. Execute about-turns if the dog is forging ahead, and counter the canine body blocks he may use to
control your pathway by leaning into him. Insist on a sit at every corner, and change pace when you desire, not when the dog does.
The length of the program depends on the dog. For some, pushiness is part of the testing done during adolescence. Once a canine teen sees there is
nothing to be gained by the behavior, he may back off. The dog who reluctantly takes charge because no one else does usually is relieved to be a
follower again and seldom needs more than a 30-day program.
For others, especially those genetically linked to the guarding breeds, such as Akitas, Rottweilers, bull mastiffs, and Great Pyrenees, a leadership
program becomes a way of life. Without it, there may be some bloodshed on the ascent to the throne—that of human family members who get in the
way when their dog says, "I don't want to," expressed eloquently through a bite.
Step forward, and regain your throne. Instead of banishing him from your kingdom, direct your dog toward the role he was born to play so charmingly
and disarmingly—that of court jester.
1 of 1 7/20/2010 1:26 PM
Curb your dog's guarding behavior | Dog Time http://dogtime.com/dogs-with-food-aggression-issues-aspca.html
Curb your dog's guarding

behavior
1 comment | Leave your own comment
Who owns the kibble in your house, once it hits the dog
bowl? Does Rover run you out of the kitchen when he is
eating dinner? What happens if you need to take away a
tasty rawhide?
If food, bones or chewies turn your sweetie into a

growling, snarling monster, then your dog has an issue
with resource guarding, or CPA (canine possession
aggression). An aggressive display over food is the most
common form of CPA.
Does your dog eat alone or intrai

good company?
We tend to teach our children to "leave the dog alone
while he eats." This is for good reason, as most dogs
view small children no differently than they view other
dogs. However, if the adults in the family must also
tip-toe around the dog when he is eating, the dog may
perceive himself as the true "owner" of the food. In the
wild, alpha dogs claim the valued resources, and will eat
first, with the underlings being allowed to eat only after
the "big dog" is full and walks away.
Our family dogs should allow us to reach down and pick

up their bowl, even when they are in the middle of eating.
Our pups must learn to tolerate the presence of people
being close to them while eating, and also to tolerate
having a bone or toy taken away.
Early training is optimal

Ideally, we start convincing pups that we are the boss,
and therefore the true owner of the food and the bones,
at an early age. Many training books advise owners to
"trade" if a pup grabs one of our shoes or any forbidden
object, by exchanging a treat for the object. The biggest
problem with this approach is that often the forbidden
object is more valuable to the dog than the treat.
One very helpful training exercise consists of teaching

pups to allow us to open their mouths, so that either
something can be removed, or something can be added
(if you need to give the dog a pill, for example). We call
this the "Give Me That" exercise.
Start by putting a tiny dab of plain cream cheese or

peanut butter on the end of your index finger. Go over to
your pup and say, "give me that," in the same tone that
you would use if he had something you did not wish for
him to have, while at the same time opening his mouth,
then quickly placing the cream cheese on his tongue.
Turn and walk calmly away afterwards, just as you would
if you had taken something from him. If the pup gets used
to hearing "give me that" with the positive of adding a
1 of 4 7/20/2010 1:28 PM
to hearing "give me that" with the positive of adding a

wonderful taste to his mouth, then it will be less difficult
when you need to say this and open his mouth to take
something from him. If he does not resent having his
mouth opened, it will also be easier to administer
medication, brush the dog's teeth, or have the
veterinarian examine his mouth. After a week or so of
opening the mouth and giving the dab of cream cheese or
peanut butter, progress to opening his mouth and rubbing
a finger over his teeth - eventually move on to using
flavored doggie toothpaste and a finger brush specifically
made for dogs to clean his teeth daily.
Teach your dog that you own the rights to the food, and
that he must exhibit impulse control at the dinner table, by
fixing the dog's food and leaving it on the kitchen counter.
Then sit down at the table yourself (with any type of
food, you can even eat a couple of crackers) and eat
FIRST, before your dog is given his bowl. The dog should
sit and wait patiently until you are finished, and then his
bowl is put down. If he is too impulsive to wait, then bring
his crate into the kitchen and pull it up beside you, and
crate him while you are eating. Before giving him his
dinner, let him out of the crate, and have him sit before
you put down the bowl.
Have the full ration of kibble in another bowl, and put only
a small handful into his dish. As he is eating, reach down
and add another handful, so that he gets used to having
your hands in or near his bowl. Occasionally reach down
and pick up the bowl while he is eating, wait a few
seconds, ask him to sit, then put it back down.
Always give your dog an adequate amount of food at

each meal, so that he does not feel deprived or hungry. A
hungry dog will nearly always have impulse control issues
around food. If he is overweight, your veterinarian can
recommend a food for weight control or you can add
roughage like canned green beans or fresh grated
carrots. This helps him feel fuller without having
consumed extra calories.
Working with the dog who already

has a problem
Occasionally we adopt a dog who has already had many
years of controlling his food bowl and bones. Sometimes
dogs who have been rescued from a puppy mill or
neglectful environment actually did have to fight for their
food. In either case, doing the puppy exercises listed
above may not be a safe option.
Realize that it is not all about the food - rather, it's about
the relationship. Your dog must learn to trust that you are
a competent, capable leader who is in charge of
everything, including the territory and the valued
resources. He must trust that you have his best interests
at heart. Work with a qualified behaviorist or an
experienced trainer who can help you convey leadership
to your dog in a kind but firm manner. Dogs are
genetically programmed to defer leadership to the
individual in their environment whom they consider the
most capable of making the decisions, controlling the
territory,and taking charge of the resources. Becoming
2 of 4 7/20/2010 1:28 PM
territory,and taking charge of the resources. Becoming

that type of leader will help your dog feel safer and more
secure.
Start by taking up all bones and toys and putting them in

a basket or box where your dog cannot reach them. He
can only chew on one thing at a time, so no more than
one item should be on the floor, or in his crate, at any
one time. If you come into a room and see the toy or
bone just lying there, the dog ignoring it, simply pick it up
and put it back in the basket. If your dog needs
something to play with, then call him to you, have him sit,
then reach in and get something and give it to him. This
conveys to him that the toys and bones are yours, and
you are allowing him to play with them, instead of
vice-versa.
In relationship to his food bowl, start simply. Have your

dog sit before the food is put down. Once he can do this,
progress to standing near him as he eats, ignoring any
displays of growling or guarding. After a few days, if you
have not tried to take it away, he should accept your
closeness to the food. Once he does this, then start
using your foot (with shoes on, please) to push the bowl
a bit while he is eating. Start by doing it just once during
his dinner, but progress to the point where you can
actually push the bowl totally away from him, and stand
between him and the bowl.
If you think he is likely to have a temper tantrum, then

have him attached to his leash, so you can pick up the
leash and pull him away if needed. Dogs do understand
that leaders can make them move, even away from
valued items, so the use of a leash, or your body blocking
him, or your foot pushing, are all leadership exercises.
For best results, do all of these things without talking at
all.
Be patient and persistent, yet calm

and collected
Are pack leaders the ones who engage in the most
posturing and aggressive displays to make their point?
No! It is the "leader wanna-bes" who make the biggest
fuss. The actual leader simply walks into the pack and
takes what he wishes, with very little fanfare.
When starting leadership exercises of any kind, including

those that revolve around the food bowl, do so with
confidence, yet quietly and calmly. Cesar Milan of The
Dog Whisperer TV show on National Geographic speaks
often of calm, assertive energy. This is exactly what we
wish to project when working with dogs with food and
guarding issues. If we yell loudly, or even chatter
incessantly, we are marking ourselves as "leader
wanna-bes," not powerful pack leaders. Remember, you
are the one who paid for the food and the toys, and you
are the one responsible for making sure your dog is not a
danger to anyone - so you have not only the right, but the
responsibility, to step into the role of pack leader. Be
persistent, don't give up. Almost every dog can accept
that adult human beings have control over the food,
bones and toys. Keep in mind, however, that dogs view
3 of 4 7/20/2010 1:28 PM
bones and toys. Keep in mind, however, that dogs view

smaller children more like other dogs, pack members
equal to themselves, so do not do any of these exercises
with your children present, and never allow your children
to do anything that might put them at risk.
If implementing these suggestions does not cause a

significant improvement in your dog's behavior within
three weeks, then consider contacting an experienced
canine behavior specialist. They can help by evaluating
your dog and making sure that there are not other issues
which need to be addressed.
4 of 4 7/20/2010 1:28 PM
It's mine! How to reduce object guarding | Dog Time http://dogtime.com/object-guarding-dogs-aspca.html
It's mine! How to reduce

object guarding
Add a comment to this page
You and your buddy are out on a walk when Fido spots a
tennis ball rolling his way. He lunges forward, grabs the
ball in his teeth, and gruffly growls, "It's mine."
Canine Possession Aggression (CPA) comes in two

forms--food guarding and object guarding, the act of
assertively protecting toys, chew treats (such as bully
twists, pig ears, etc.), and things snuck from you such as
socks, underwear, and items from the trash can.
So why does your furry friend feel he has to jealously

guard things from you? Because you're going to take it
from him! You have in the past, haven't you? When he
was a pup, he wandered through the house and yard
grabbing everything he could fit in his mouth. When you
saw him with one of your best shoes in his mouth, you
screamed "No" and snatched it from him. You probably
followed that up with "Bad Puppy!" to boot. Every time he
found some wonderful new goody, someone grabbed it
away. After awhile, your dog became fed up with this. He
may start with a growl, then a snarl or snap, and before
long good strong bite.
It's All in the Mouth

To avoid a bite, start by getting your dog used to you
touching his mouth. Begin when he is a puppy--brush his
teeth, flap his flews, open his mouth and say, "Hello?"
Reward him with a treat when he accepts this touching.
If your dog has possession issues with things like

rawhide chews, buy a long one. Hold one end and offer
the other to your dog. He will not enjoy this as much as
when he can run and hide with it, but as he gets used to
this routine, he will become more accepting of it.
Deal or No Deal?
Your dog should view you as the master and provider of
all good things. You need to tightly control what he gets
and when he gets it. Keep all but a few toys and chews
on the floor at any one time. When you offer a new chew
or toy, give the command "take it." When you are done
playing or want the chew toy time to stop, give the
command "drop it," take the item and put it away. Then,
give him an item in exchange for the one you took.
You can help the exchange by giving him something he

likes better in exchange for dropping the item you want to
take away. You will need to find out through time and trial
what those "better" things are. It could be a favorite toy,
a certain treat, or even a walk. For example, if playing
with a ball is fun for your dog, but not as fun as a walk,
then that would be the exchange. If he loves a certain
toy, but would gladly give it up for a special treat, then
that is your exchange. If he keeps getting into the
1 of 2 7/20/2010 1:30 PM
It's mine! How to reduce object guarding | Dog Time http://dogtime.com/object-guarding-dogs-aspca.html
that is your exchange. If he keeps getting into the

garbage, but stops when you pull out a chewy, then by all
means, keep a stock of chews on hand.
In theory, you and your family, as leaders of the pack,

should be able to take any object from your dog--but not
every dog abides by these rules. In some circumstances,
the dog feels he is pack leader. In others, the dog's
purpose is not clear.
CPA may be anxiety-based or come from past

experiences. If you can determine what drives these
behaviors, you can avoid situations that allow the dog to
see possessiveness as a suitable response. If the
problem is out of hand, get the help of a professional,
such as a certified dog trainer or animal behaviorist. They
can evaluate the situation and design a personalized
process for you and your dog.
2 of 2 7/20/2010 1:30 PM
<Dogpages UK dog rescue forums> http://www.dogpages.org.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=191042
I have a dilema.
I like to think I know a bit about dog behaviour etc... well the basics plus some
common sense thrown in there, but I am stumped as to how to fix this.
I have an 2.5 year old Collie x Lab, Lex. He is neutered and a very well behaved dog.
He is more collie-fied than he is lab in the way in which he behaves. Loves toys, and
will fetch and retrieve all day long, in the house and out on walks.
I have also have a long term foster of about 6 months, Ollie. He is collie x GSD but
collie sized. He is 9 years old and is great with other dogs, and since having him here,
loves the ball too.
I've had Lex from the age of 6 months. He was a very scared little dog but has gained
alot of confidence with other dogs and has generally been very good with other dogs.
He doesn't particularly like bitches, prefers dogs.
In the last year he has become more and more agressive towards dogs on lead. I can
cope with this as usually I don't come into contact with that many dogs. Given the
chance, if he was able to get to the dog in question whilst on lead he wouldn't kill it,
but warn it off. (As he has done so a few times)
My problem is the ball obsession. I will walk the two dogs to the park, both are wound
up to the point of bursting, as they know I'm about to lob the ball. As soon as I've
thrown they're off like a shot and do not stop until I've put the ball away in my pocket
'all gone!!'. Both dogs are angels off lead around other dogs, because as long as the
ball is being thrown, a bomb could go off in the next field and they wouldn't bat an
eye lid, because they are both souly focused on the ball. The only problem with this
is, when and if other dogs come over to play/sniff Lex, if they cross the line of getting
to close to him with his beloved ball, all hell brakes loose. He'll drop the ball, and fly
off at them. He has never, luckily, attacked/drawn blood from another dog, but will
have a go at absolutely anything (from small spaniels to a massive great big
8mmonth olf mastiff the other day). You can see if another dog approaches, his
hackles are up and he will fire these glances at them, but will keep his calm, but if he
drops the ball at my feet and the other dog gets too close to this golden ball, thats it,
he's off!! I'm assuming it is his warning to them that the ball is his property and to
leave well alone?? Luckily, no other dogs have faught back, and do leave him alone.
(Ollie has no part to play in this agression as he sees the ball as a fun game, not the
be-all and end-all of life itself, like Lex does).
Now I have tried taking them both on walks with no ball, and Lex will immediately
pick up a stick, if I ignore his efforts he will then run around happily, but then if
another dog s approaches, whilst Ollie is fine, Lex will warn off these dogs... in a sort
of snarly charge at them? If I call him he will come back, but being 2 of them on a
walk sometimes the fact that Ollies recall is 65% Lex tends to ignore me too.
So no ball, is not an option... but taking a ball on every single walk is turning Lex
more and more agressive.
Would it be worth me taking treats on a walk instead, and when seeing a dog, calling
1 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
them both back for a sit and treat? As soon as i rustle my coat pocket they know its a
treat (the ball).
Does it sound as though it will be at all possible to stop Lex's obsession, as I'm
worried that in the past year it's got worse, surely in another year it'll only be worse
still??
Just to add, if by chance Ollie gets the ball, then it's fine as Ollie is the dominant one
and Lex knows his place.
Sorry for the massively long post, but I am worrying about it becoming a real issue.
Thanks in advance..
Lorns, Lex & Ollie
Claireand Daisy 11th Jan 2009, 6:48 pm Post #2
Daisy is ball-obsessive. We`ve had to work really hard to contain it. Now we have
places / times when we do the ballie thing, and it`s part of our training. Before I
throw the ball she has to do something - distance stanc, finish, drop, rollover or
whatever - sometimes a sequence of moves. Her reward is the ball. In other words
Member the ball is now only used in a controlled situation. My other dog used to be tied up
while we trained, then had his turn. My current other dog isn`t interested. I think it
Group: Member would be easier to train your dogs separately, particularly if one has aggression
Posts: 2003 issues.
Joined: 20 Dec 07
Member No.: 35604
Lindsay 11th Jan 2009, 7:54 pm Post #3
I find that with some dogs, they can be so fuelled by the excitement and "stress" that
they can get aggressive. With my dog, who I experienced this with for a while, she
was actually fine with other dogs taking her toy but hated to wait, or for other dogs to
come near while we were playing or even if she thought I had the toy, or just if she
Member was "stressed" by it.
Group: Sponsor Member I basically stopped all toy play except in the house for about 6 weeks, and then when
Posts: 15537 I did introduce it I took it out about twice a week and did other stuff with food rather
Joined: 18 Sep 02
From: Dorset
than her beloved toy. She started to react better within about one week and became
Member No.: 2829 more friendly with other dogs, better socially, etc.
Of course this is just my experience, but I've a theory that toy "stress" can be more
influential than we think ... I recall Turid Rugaas talking about this a few years ago
2 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
influential than we think ... I recall Turid Rugaas talking about this a few years ago
and i was one of those who pooh-poohed it rather, now I am thinking twice about it.
Lex&Ollie 11th Jan 2009, 8:51 pm Post #4
I think Lex is thinking, 'thats my ball, she is about to throw it, I have to get it cos its
mine, no matter what.' then this is where he starts to stress? having too much to
think about. he doesn't see it as simple fetch and retrieve.
Member I think I'm going to walk them without a ball in a quiet area, and take some treats.
Do some training exercises with the pair of them. Recall them randomly, give
Group: Member command treat (food) and send away. (so that if and when dogs decide to come over,
Posts: 659 i can try to use this recall to distract lex from face to face challenges with other dogs)
Joined: 19 Dec 08
From: Northampton Until both of them are familiar with both coming back when required. Ollie has a
Member No.: 42327 tendancy to be an ignorant old fool sometimes but Lex will return straight away
everytime.
Then as they get better, start taking them back to the busy park and carry this on. I
still want him to have his ball though because it is the best exercise and they both
absolutely love it.
Should I introduce the ball again as their treat, but only once they've mastered the
recall?
This post has been edited by Lex&Ollie: 11th Jan 2009, 8:52 pm
altomlin 11th Jan 2009, 9:30 pm Post #5
And on top of what you have already decided, when you do take a ball out, what
about having a spare 'distraction' one in your pocket for when another dog
approaches?
Member
Group: Sponsor Member

Posts: 4659
Joined: 5 Nov 03
From: Rubery, South
Birmingham
Member No.: 6332
QUOTE(altomlin @ 11th Jan 2009, 9:30 pm)
3 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
Member
approaches?
Group: Member
Posts: 659
Joined: 19 Dec 08
From: Northampton
Member No.: 42327 To then distract Lex away from the prize possesion, the ball?
I want to be able to desensitise him from the ball. I want him to see the ball as a toy
and not something he needs to agressively guard 24/7. The dogs that approach aren't
ever interested in the ball, they just want to see the dogs, but he just take it all a bit
too seriously
celia 12th Jan 2009, 12:48 am Post #7
One of my dogs is very ball-obsessed but she has devised for herself a way of being
able to greet other dogs without any conflict over her ball. What she does is stops and
places the ball away from herself and then goes to say hello. It would be better of
course if she were to give the ball to me first but this method is one she came up
Member with by herself and it seems to have worked. Previously she was worried about
potential ball thieves and would react if she thought a dog had it's eye on her ball.
Group: Sponsor Member I am just wondering if it would be possible to teach Lex to drop the ball for Ollie or
Posts: 11489
you and then to greet other dogs.
Joined: 26 Jan 04
Member No.: 7184 The other thing with Beff is I always take several balls so that "the ball" doesn't
become over important and I try to include some sniffing and mooching times in the
walks so that she isn't all ball-hyper for the entire time. Maybe 5 minutes in each
walk of no ball time then build that up very very gradually ?
altomlin 12th Jan 2009, 10:50 pm Post #8
QUOTE(altomlin @ 11th Jan 2009, 9:30 pm)
Member
approaches?
Group: Sponsor Member
Posts: 4659
Joined: 5 Nov 03
From: Rubery, South
Birmingham
Member No.: 6332
QUOTE(celia @ 12th Jan 2009, 12:48 am)
The other thing with Beff is I always take several balls so that "the ball" doesn't
become over important and I try to include some sniffing and mooching times in the
walks so that she isn't all ball-hyper for the entire time. Maybe 5 minutes in each
4 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
Exactly. If she knows you have lots of balls in your pocket/bag maybe she wont
obsess over the one in her mouth? I saw a programme once (may have been pet
rescue) where they were treating a dog with a similar problem, ball aggression. They
filled his kennel with tennis balls so he got bored of them. He didnt know which
one to guard/pick up.
Rainbow Jo 13th Jan 2009, 6:18 pm Post #9
I'm not convinced by that really. A dog I walk has this problem. If he doesn't have a
ball (I never take toys out with him) he will sometimes pick up a stick and guard that.
There are tons of sticks around, but none of them are as important as 'his' stick.
Member
With him, it's a general lack of confidence with other dogs. When he knows a dog
Group: Sponsor Member well, he is totally relaxed. Today my heart was in my mouth when the first I realised
Posts: 8050 he had a stick, was when I realised he was lying down chewing one, with Baxter
Joined: 10 Jan 03
chewing the other end He didn't mind at all though, because he knows and trusts
From: Sunderland
Member No.: 3510 Baxter.
The problem with him, and I think other toy-induced aggression is the dogs
adrenaline levels are sky high, so I think they're less likely to inhibit their bite.
I have noticed that his play with toys isn't that relaxed, but when he's playing chasey
games with another dog he's really care-free. I certainly think he seems happier
playing zoomies than he does obsesssively staring at and then running after a ball.
It's like the difference between a gambling addict who HAS to bet on the horses,
compared to riding a bike downhill with your feet off the peddles and a summer
breeze in your hair. The addict might choose to bet, but I reckon they'd get a lot
more enjoyment out of the bike ride.
AnnS 13th Jan 2009, 9:12 pm Post #10
Interesting, we have a similar problem because Maddie is ball obsessed. She isn't
good with strange dogs but if she has her ball is fine and will ignore them. However
we meet up with a few other dogs in the morning ( all known to her) and this turned
into a free for all with all the dogs trying to get hold of the ball. Didn't matter if there
Member was more than one ball all the dogs wanted Maddie's one, like kids in a playground I
suppose, with toys. It got to the stage where she was getting really stressed and
Group: Sponsor Member couldn't drop the ball without it being taken and was getting frantic trying to bring the
Posts: 4468 ball back to me for me to throw. Anyway one morning I put the ball away, explained
Joined: 20 May 02
From: Central Scotland
to the other dog owners that I felt she was getting into a total panic and from now on
Member No.: 1457 we were out for a walk and a play and chase.
It took a few days for her to relax and play with the other dogs but she really calmed
5 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
It took a few days for her to relax and play with the other dogs but she really calmed
down and began to enjoy her walks a lot more. Now she only gets her ball when it
suits me and she's a lot more relaxed in general.
AnnS
Next time I am out with him off-lead I am not going to take a ball, just treats. If they
both decided to run off after another dog, I honestly do not know how Lex would be
as he has had this ball obsession for so long, so I'm going to take a pocket full of
treats so I know he'll come back straight away.
Member
After taking him I will update on here how he got on. He doesn't have out and out
Group: Member agression for other dogs, he just needs to stop telling every dog off for being too close
Posts: 659 to him!
Joined: 19 Dec 08
From: Northampton
Member No.: 42327 Thanks everyone, will be back on soon to update
Hoviskeeper 15th Jan 2009, 7:20 pm Post #12
I had this problem with Malin, one of my bridge babies, many years ago.
My Hovis has also occassionally got a bit silly over a ball with another dog if he has
been pushed when very focused on his ball.
Member
Malin would defend her ball with her life if another dog came near it. It was fine if she
Group: Member was with only my other dogs as they would back down to her as she was the oldest,
Posts: 315 and very much the top dog.
Joined: 1 Apr 08
Member No.: 37901
If I walked with my friend who fostered long-term an elderly, similar-in-personality
bitch, they would compete with each other over a ball. Oh the noise and fights as
neither would give in.
We established a few rules to make walking less stressful:
No balls until we said, yours stays in my pocket until I am ready to give it you.
You have to "earn" it by doing something.
I will throw your ball in one direction, at roughly the same time friend will throw her
dog`s ball in opposite direction for her dog to get.
You bring the ball back to me for throwing again, not try to get friend to do it for you.
After a few mins the ball goes away, before you all get hopelessly overexcited!
6 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
That way we had many happy walks with no problems.
I also used to throw a ball on a rope for mine. This way, they could "help" her bring it
back!
If I was out in the park with her, and spotted a dog I didnt know, I always took the
ball off her just in case. Better safe than sorry. She could have it back when the coast
was clear if I decided to!
OK, update!
took the boys out on Sunday with no ball.
Member All went well, infact almost too well?? Myself and friend (owner of 'my other dog')
took them to a field we know very well where there are a few other dogs walked to
Group: Member test them out.
Posts: 659
Joined: 19 Dec 08
From: Northampton Straight away Lex wouldn't leave my side as he thought I was going to get the ball
Member No.: 42327 out at any time. He soon gave up after about 10 mins (and Ollie's constant barking for
the ball) and they both ran off happily to sniff and be normal dogs.
Ollie (my friends dog that lives with me) ran off the other side of the field to say hello
to 2 labs, much to my friends annoyance (haha!!) ... Lex performed his perfect recall
and stayed by me the entire time.
Once we got Ollie back, they carried on playing together nicely.
We then neared some Lurcher type dogs, 2 of them....quite far across the field from
us. By this point, Lex was bored of being good and so was Ollie, so the pair of them
ran off. Lex was told off by both dogs and was scared (GREAT!!) this is what I was
hoping for, because although he goes mad for his ball, he is a very submissive dog, so
a telling off did him good!! (plus these lurchers were giants compared to our dogs!!)...
I called Lex, he came back, on a lead, lovely job
Ollie on the other hand, was messing about until he got a proper telling off by on of
the Lurchers, Chez, (friend) then went and got him and put him on the lead (we were
at the end of the walk anyway)...sooo all in all a good walk!! No dead dogs, and no
fighting
Next stop. My local park... dog paradise
7 of 7 7/20/2010 1:33 PM
THAT MUTT: A Dog Blog » How to break a dog’s possessiveness http://www.thatmutt.com/2010/03/26/how-to-break-a-dogs-possessiveness/
What do you do when your dog becomes possessive of a certain

object such as a bone, a toy or a sock?
Here are my suggestions:
First of all, nothing should ever be given to a dog for free. Even if
certain objects “belong” to the dog, he should only be allowed to touch
them with permission from his owner.
Some people will allow aggressive behavior from a dog when the dog
is being possessive of food or toys that “belong” to him. It’s easy to
make excuses for the dog, but aggression should never be tolerated.
Some dog owners even believe their dog is showing aggression because
the dog is “protecting” the toy or believes the toy is his baby. Trust
me, dogs do not think their toys or other objects are their
babies. Believing so would be humanizing the dog.
What starts out as minor possessiveness of a stuffed toy can easily escalate to much more serious aggression. Dogs that are
allowed to show possessiveness of their food and toys often begin to show possessiveness of other objects such as socks,
table scraps or people.
How to prevent a dog’s possessive behavior
1. A dog should always be given a clear set of rules.
The owner is in charge, not the dog.
My mutt Ace works for his food, works for my attention and works for playtime. If he wants something, I will make him sit
or lie down before he can have it. Ace understands that I can take his food or toys away at any given time, and I often do.
And just because something is in his mouth does not mean it’s off limits to me or any other person. I take things from him all
the time just to prove my point.
2. Make sure you “claim” anything you give your dog.
At feeding time, I always require that Ace gives me about five feet of space before he is given permission to approach his
bowl. Just because I set the bowl on the ground does not give him permission to come running up and grabbing it. He has to
wait. (I wish I could teach my cat the same!)
It’s also a good idea to take your dog’s food away while he is eating. Have him sit or lie down, and then give the food back.
If necessary, step over the bowl and move into your dog’s space the way a dominant dog would do.
With toys, it is the same concept. You own the toys. You can take them away at any time, and you should. Don’t allow the
dog to grab toys out of your hand until you say it’s OK.
How to break a dog from showing possessiveness

1. Do not allow any kind of possessive or aggressive behavior under any circumstance.
Sometimes aggression or possessiveness is not so obvious, but even the slightest bit of aggression around a toy or food should
be corrected so it does not lead to a more serious problem.
When a dog shows his teeth or gums even without growling or “snapping,” that’s aggression. If a dog takes her toy and hides
behind a chair or under the bed, that’s possessiveness.
Of course, some dogs sound aggressive when they are playing with toys. This is normal as long as the dog is just playing and
will allow you to take the toy and end the game at any time.
2. Begin “claiming” everything you give the dog, even if you consider it “his.”
Deliberately place the object on the ground and do not allow the dog to approach or take the object until you give him
1 of 2 7/20/2010 1:35 PM
THAT MUTT: A Dog Blog » How to break a dog’s possessiveness http://www.thatmutt.com/2010/03/26/how-to-break-a-dogs-possessiveness/
Deliberately place the object on the ground and do not allow the dog to approach or take the object until you give him
permission. If the dog tries to take the object too early, correct him instantly and put him in a sit or down position. Stand over
the object the way another dog would.
3. Create situations where the dog is likely to become possessive.
Unfortunately, the only way to break a dog from a certain behavior is to catch him in the act. It does not work to simply take
the bone away and hide it. This is like a “time out” and teaches the dog nothing. If the dog is possessive about rawhides,
you’re going to have to present rawhides to him every day and correct him the second he becomes possessive.
Put a leash on the dog to give yourself more control and confidence. Then, purposely drop a rawhide and correct him the
second he goes for it. The dog must learn to wait until you give him permission to take the rawhide. Practice this multiple
times a day. Dogs need a lot of repetitions before a behavior becomes conditioned, so be patient.
4. Teach the dog that you can take anything at any time.
In order to practice this, you will have to allow the dog to pick up the object. Make sure to do so once you have claimed it
and given him permission to take it. Once he has it in his mouth, take it away again. Practice this over and over every day.
5. Do not back down if the dog becomes aggressive.
This is the hardest part and can be very dangerous. Do not hesitate to seek help from a professional dog trainer in your area
if you are at all hesitant about approaching your aggressive dog.
If the dog becomes aggressive once he has the object in his mouth, it’s a good idea not to give him anything unless he is
wearing a leash. Once he becomes aggressive, move into his space and show him you are not scared. Most of the time the
dog does not really want to bite, but he has learned that growling and snapping will scare people away and give him more
power. In these situations I find it easier to approach from the side without making direct eye contact. I stay relaxed and
confident and wait for the dog to eventually back off. This could take 10 or 15 minutes. Each time this exercise is repeated,
it will become easier and easier.
Another method is to back the dog into a corner or barrier while you are standing and eventually you can step on the rawhide
and hold it there until he backs off. The key is for you to feel confident. Many people are more confident if they are standing
rather than putting their hands near the dog. The dog will know if you are scared and that’s what gives him more control.
6. Teach the dog the command “leave it.”
I use the “leave it” command for any object, and all it means is “Do not touch.”
Teach this command by rewarding the dog with food when he leaves the object alone. Since my dog loves tennis balls, I’ll
put a ball on the ground and say “leave it.” When I’m ready for him to pick up the ball I say “OK!” You could also say
“Take it!” Ace now understands that “leave it” can be transferred to anything such as food or even nasty things he finds out
in the yard.
Preventing possessive behavior is much easier than correcting it, so the most important part is to set clear rules for the dog
before any issues come up.
I also want to point out that a dog can be obsessive without being possessive, but neither behavior should be encouraged.
Ace is obsessed with retrieving and will bring a ball to someone over and over, but he has no problem allowing any person or
dog to take the ball right out of his mouth.
What do you do to prevent possessive behavior from your dog?
Possessiveness. Now that’s a lot of S’s.
2 of 2 7/20/2010 1:35 PM
Dog Behaviour Advice http://www.dogbehaviouradvice.com/dba/readarticle.php?id=8
Case studies for leadership problems
All dogs have a built in blue print or tick list of what makes a leader. In the wild if both the male and female leaders died, the
pack would be without any leadership. Instinct takes over on how the next in line must become the rightful leaders. Without
the experience of living in a pack, they know what they should do but have not the learned skills of how to accomplish this.
This makes for some very confusing behaviour that we at first find very illogical.
Above is a reprint of my last paragraph of last weeks article and understanding this is how we can understand why dogs act
the way they do. Dogs are born with an instinct tick list of what to do in certain circumstances. They also have learned
instincts that vary the first list. When there is no leader the dogs know that the strongest must take over and how to achieve
this. The second learned list then tells the dog how to be leader from learning by example. It therefore follows that if a dog
has never seen how leaders actually act because they have never seen a real pack they have no way to vary the instinct list
on how to carry out their duties. Though they have the body language of a leader, many of their actions do not seem to make
sense. As body language is important to dogs, we can interpret this and use this to transmit to dogs to gain certain
responses. In the real pack there are far more body language stances than we can imitate or fully understand but it is this
way that the leader communicates and controls the other members of the pack
Humans use body language to transmit and receive information between one another. Sometimes we do not know we are
actually doing this but we have body stances that on some occasions give us away to how we really feel but did not wish to
reveal. Aware of this we can also use body language to trick the recipient into believing what we are saying is correct by
showing the correct body signs even though you know it is not correct. If you maintain eye-to-eye contact with your bank
manager you might make him look away submissively and possibly give you a loan. If you feel uncomfortable, then just focus
your eyes to behind the bank manager’s head so you do not see him but for a blur. You can then feel more comfortable and
chalk one up to your self when the bank manager has to look away. (Warning he may know the same trick) Do be careful
though you can make someone feel very uncomfortable if you use this on a friend and the same reaction applies if used on a
dog.
Case 1 Bitch as the leader.
I know how to act like a dominant male dog (my wife agrees with dog bit but not the dominant male bit) and I expect dogs to
apply their standard responses. This was my protection in the first case where we had a medium sized bitch who believed
that neither the owner (female) nor the male dog fitted her blue print of having the appropriate leadership qualities and that it
was she that had to take over this roll. Listening to the owner on the telephone as she described the bitch’s actions and
responses indicated to me confusion by the bitch. It was very possible that she was reluctant to take on this roll but there
was no other choice. The owner is accustomed to training and to owning previously docile dogs but the bitch was nothing
she had come across before. The owner also had the most beautiful great huggy bear of a male dog that was so docile I
wanted to take him away with me. The bitch had to shove him into barking at people the same as she in order to carry out
her roll. The bitch was acting watchful of people who did enter the house and even to following them around the house and
garden and on one occasion trying to nip. Now having two dogs charging up and down the boundary fence looking as if they
were baying for blood for each passer by was becoming intolerable for the owner. It was also becoming uncomfortable to
invite people into the home because of the possibility of the bitch resorting to biting. The bitch would also disappear as she
pleased if she could get out the garden but as she was the leader, she thinks this is her prerogative. In her mind, it was the
owner and the dog that were wrong in wandering off in the wrong direction. This will change, as she has to come to
recognise the owner as the rightful leader.
When I arrived, the owner was outside her garden to meet me and we walked up to the gate. The owner was most
concerned for my safety but I assured her I would be fine (gulp). She had the lead but I said that this too was unnecessary
and proceeded into the garden ignoring both dogs completely. I then proceeded to walk towards the house. After some
vigorous barking and my ignoring her, the bitch took the lead and escorted us all up to the house. We entered the Naya,
where we sat down and I still ignored both dogs. Whilst discussing the reasons as to whey her bitch was acting this way she
made four attempts to attract my attention by pawing my leg and licking my hand but each time she would eventually give up
and walk away to lie down. The bitch was trying to follow her built in rules of how to act as a leader of her pack. She showed
contempt for the dog as a useless male and in her play with him she kept going for his throat so he would show submission
to her. This he would not do as he had no idea how or why he should do this. He was capable of sitting on the bitch and
pinning her down but this is not a standard move so it did not apply to the bitch as a sign of dominance. As I moved around
the house touching the furniture to leave my scent the bitch followed me but still wanted me to recognise her as the lead
bitch in return for her showing me her full respect. I could never do this as I can only show respect to the owner. Were I to
recognise the bitch it would only add reinforcement of her position as the leader.
I gave a list of leadership actions for the owner to follow over the next two weeks to establish her as the rightful leader. This
included eating something in front of the dogs just before she fed them. The owner should call both dogs for their meal,
pretend to eat some of their meal first and then give them the food with the command to eat. This would inforce the owner as
the leader and sole provider of the food for the pack. In addition, she should ignore the dogs’ request for attention until they
were calm and only when the owner was ready, call the bitch over for attention. When they went for walks, the owner should
walk them separately and stop the bitch taking the lead position even if it was just going up to the gate. The owner should
take the bitch for sociability classes in order to stop this constant barking at other dogs and people. You cannot do without
these classes. Telling everyone who enters the house and gardens to follow this technique and ignore both dogs completely
1 of 2 7/20/2010 1:39 PM
Dog Behaviour Advice http://www.dogbehaviouradvice.com/dba/readarticle.php?id=8
these classes. Telling everyone who enters the house and gardens to follow this technique and ignore both dogs completely
until they were ready to show the dogs attention. Both dogs got attention when they asked for it but with the bitch, this was
part of the problem. She as leader was also dictating when she gave the owner attention. This needs reversing quickly.
A problem is only a problem if it is a problem. (Yes, my wife looked at me in the same way when I said that) Neither humans
nor dogs are perfect and we all have some problems and some problems we are prepared to tolerate. (My wife is shaking
her head) As with the dog it was very hard for me not to give the dog a love when he came up to see me asking for attention.
For the dog, it was not a problem but for the bitch, it was.
Having inadvertently taken the owners sunglasses I returned the next day, entered the gate, and walked right up to the
house before the barking started. I assured the owner to just let them out and ignored them both again. After half an hour,
the bitch stood on my lap and tried to lick my face in a final attempt to obtain my recognition so I simple stood up and then sat
down again. There were signs as I was leaving that all the barking was indeed a sham as when I failed to leave because I
stood talking at the gate the bitch went off again to lie down. Friends who are friendly with the bitch did call some days later
and the bitch tried to nip the man in order to gain attention. The owner was now worried things were getting worse but in fact
the bitch is now getting desperate that as leader everyone who enters the home is ignoring her. Now the bitch is still looking
at the owner as a subordinate that is not prepared to accept the bitch’s attention so she is showing the owner the same
tactic. After such a long time as leader, giving up this position will be hard.
For the second week I have asked the owner to go up to the fence when she they are barking and remove the dog leaving
the bitch. The owner must now go back to the fence and encourage the bitch to refrain from barking for some sausage titbits.
This again reinforces the owner as the leader and the sole provider of food. This should create a decision in the bitch
whether to bark or eat. Remember the dogs question what is in it for me so the choice is bark and get nothing or eat and
enjoy. Once she starts to eat, she will change her variable tick list and override her instincts tick list.
Case 2 Dog lunging and barking at any other dog.
Here was a case of a very powerful and well-trained one-year-old large dog with a lady owner. All the normal rules of
leadership by the owner were followed but with one exception that the dog was not learning how to find its place in the
hierarchy of the infinite pack. Unfortunately being a large puppy at training classes the owner misread the dog’s actions of
plying for top position with other dogs in the training club as aggression. The owner being concerned for the other dogs
being hurt followed a period of protecting the dog by keeping him away from other dogs. In the early days the instructor did
advise to just let the dog off the lead when there would have been some jostling but the older dogs would have soon put this
juvenile in its place with body posture without resorting to any fighting. Unfortunately, the dog missed this important learning
stage, now lunges, and barks at any dog large or small dog or bitch. The dog was very strong, boisterous and the type of
dog I would choose as pick of the litter. It has all the dominance characteristics that I would seek but is not ideal for a pet. A
friend brought out her little bitch and the dog began barking and lunging at her but not in a dangerous aggressive mode,
though it may look it. I am certain had I let the dog off the lead he would have rushed up only to find she was a bitch and then
he would have calmed down. My advice was for the owner because he was such a powerful dog was to stand on the lead to
force the dog into a submissive down when she met other dogs. The dog would not like such a stance but would have to
look at the owner as the leader. The next thing to do is to purchase the correct muzzle that allows a dog to pant in order to
keep cool and to go to training classes to explain the problem. The owners of the older dogs that are willing should let their
dogs off their leads and then let this dog off. He would obviously go charging in but like a gun with no bullets. The older dogs
will show him the error of his ways without resorting to fighting. It will then be necessary to teach the dog to walk and be with
the other dogs until it has calmed sufficiently to remove the muzzle.
Case 3 Dog jumping up at guests.
The owner of a large and powerful dog always jumped up at those who entered the house and this is a problem. Again, I
entered the house and ignored the dog. Immediately this big strong dog began jumping up and pulling at me but within a few
seconds of my ignoring him, he simply went outside. I explained the technique to follow and for the owners to ask their
friends to come into the house wearing old cloths and do the same. This will teach the dog he does not control when
attention is given. The dog also had one further problem and this was to bring into the house his soggy ball and deposit at
the feet of the owners in order to play with him. The dog was therefore controlling when to play games but also kept leaving
the ball in the house. To resolve this is after playing ball with the dog the owners must put the ball away outside where the
dog cannot reach and then for the owners to decide when they play ball with the dog. I will cover how to play games with
dogs in a separate article.
2 of 2 7/20/2010 1:39 PM
Dog Owner's Guide: Canine Aggression http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html
Treatment
Treating aggressive behavior is best handled by a professional animal behaviorist or a very experienced, reputable animal
trainer. There are a number of individuals who call themselves animal behaviorists or trainers who are poorly qualified.
They often resort to brutal and sadistic methods such as "hanging" and shock collars to correct aggressive dogs. Excessive
force and punishment are their main tools.
When seeking a professional trainer, always seek advice from your veterinarian and carefully interview trainers to find the
one who uses the least amount of force necessary.
Treatment consists of listing all the things that trigger aggressive behavior and preventing these situations from developing.
For example, if the dog growls when you try to remove it from the couch, don't allow it to get on the couch.
The first impulse is to minimize contact between an aggressive dog and the person or people he is most aggressive to.
However, this scheme only encourages the dog to become dominant to more and more people and tightens his control of the
household. Therefore, the individual who is having the most difficulty with the dog should become the main provider for
everything the dog needs food, water, exercise, praise, affection, and all play activity. This person must be able to train the
dog to obey basic obedience commands of sit, stay, come, and down. He will probably need a lot of help with the down
command (which puts the animal in a submissive position) so he doesn't get bitten.
All other family members must totally ignore the dog no play, food, or affection. The dog must look on that one person as its
sole provider of everything.
The dog must be rewarded for any signs of submissive behavior such as ears back, looking away (avoiding eye contact),
rolling over, licking, crouching, or lowering the head when being reached for. Any dominant gestures that the dog will
tolerate should be used frequently and the dog must be praised and given occasional food rewards for submitting. The dog
must earn everything.
Once a dog starts to respond, then counter-conditioning can be started, but this should only be done with a qualified
behaviorist-trainer. Counter-conditioning includes working with a dog that doesn't like its feet or hindquarters handled; it is
also referred to as desensitizing the dog to certain stimuli or conditions.
To counter-condition a dog that does not like its hindquarters handled, first teach the dog to stand on command, then, with
an experienced handler controlling the dog's head, the gently touch the rear end. If the dog submits, praise and give a food
treat. Repeat praise and reward for each positive response. Gradually increase the duration and frequency of handling and
praise the dog for each act of submission, no matter how small.
Aggressive dogs can be retrained under the right circumstances. Keep in mind, however, before anyone starts a program to
correct an aggressive dog, he must realize that the dog may never be trustworthy around other people or children and may
bite if provoked. Owners should always be given the cold, hard facts: they should never feel guilty for having an aggressive
dog euthanized, but they should also realize that, if they are likely to make the same mistakes with another dog, they should
not get another dog.
Do you suspect that your dog is aggressive?

The late Dr. Harvey Braaf VMD listed the following symptoms of dog aggression. None of these symptoms should be
ignored; each can be a predictor of serious aggressive behavior. A professional trainer should be contacted if the owner
cannot deal with the problem.
In no case should the animal be abandoned to a shelter or rescue organization for adoption by an unsuspecting new
owner.
If you think your dog is aggressive check the following symptoms
Excessive barking;
A tendency to snarl, growl, or snap to protect food;
Overprotectiveness of possessions;
Fearfulness in new situations or around strangers;
1 of 2 7/20/2010 1:46 PM
Dog Owner's Guide: Canine Aggression http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html
Fearfulness in new situations or around strangers;

Severe attacks on other animals, such as cats or livestock;
Attempts to mount people's legs;
Snapping and snarling when petted, groomed, or lifted;
Frequent attempts to chase moving objects such as bicycles, skateboards, cars and trucks;
Repeated escapes from home and long periods spent roaming free
How to Avoid Dog Attacks.

Avoid going onto private property unless specifically invited.
Do not run when confronted with a threatening dog. Running only stimulates the dog to increase its aggression.
Hold your ground and demonstrate moderate dominance by telling the dog firmly to go home. This usually
works wonders. Firmly saying "no" and "sit" may also work.
Avoid direct eye contact, which the dog interprets as a challenge. Instead, appear nonchalant.
When the dog begins to back away, slowly retreat also, keeping the dog in view without paying much attention to
it. If the dog begins to come back, stop and wait until it moves off again.
Do not try to outdistance the dog on a bicycle. Stop, dismount and stand with the bicycle between you and the dog.
Without something to chase, the dog may lose interest.
Do not try to pet a strange, free-roaming dog.
Never attempt to touch or pet a dog that is eating or sleeping.
Do not be embarrassed to jump on a car, climb a tree, or call for help if you are threatened.
Do not be embarrassed to ask a dog owner to restrain the dog until it clearly recognizes you as a friend.
Avoid any encounters with guard-trained dogs. Find out if any are patrolling before you walk in a new area.
Report all aggressive loose dogs or incidents of actual bites.
Keep still and try to remain calm. Do not scream or run. (J. Michael Cornwell, DVM, advises children to "be a
tree," with feet together, elbows against your chest and hands under your neck.)
Glance at the dog so you know where it is, but don't stare it in the eyes.
Don't turn your back on the barking animal.
Let the dog sniff you. In most cases, it will leave as soon as it realizes that you aren't really a threat.
Speak to the dog only in a calm voice. You might try: "Go away," "Go home" or "Nice dog."
Wait until the dog leaves, then slowly back away until it's out of sight.
As a last resort, throw or pretend to throw an object at an aggressive dog.
If attacked, "feed" the dog something else--your jacket, bike, purse, books--to distract it.
If knocked down, curl into a ball, and use your hands to protect your head and neck.
Seek immediate medical attention for dog bites. All bites should also be reported to the police or animal-control
department.
2 of 2 7/20/2010 1:46 PM
Responsible Pet Ownership: Jealousy and Possessive Behavior in Dogs http://canidaepetfood.blogspot.com/2009/07/jealousy-and-possessive-beh...
Jealousy and Possessive Behavior in Dogs
By Linda Cole
Possessive behavior in dogs

is actually quite common.
We often see them guarding
their favorite toy or sleeping
spot, or making sure other
pets in the house stay away
from their feeding bowl or
treat “cookie jar.” In a way,
it's hard to blame them for
protecting what they believe
belongs to them, and that
includes their human. After
all, we display the same
tendencies toward other people. Being possessive of a toy or favorite
resting area is one thing, but if your dog is jealous, that's another
ballgame that can quickly get out of control.
Jealousy in dogs is not cute, and we unknowingly encourage bad

behavior each time the dog is allowed to display this emotion with no
correction from us. Jealousy can occur when you bring in a new pet,
start a new relationship, have a baby or when there is any other change
in your life which takes your attention away from your dog. In his
mind, he has stood by you through thick and thin, and given
unconditional love— and now you are giving your attention to someone
else. How rude.
Kelly is my alpha female. She’s an adorable 14 year old terrier/mix who

has eyes only for me. As far as she is concerned, I belong to her and
it's her duty to protect me. I didn't realize she had taken on the role as
my protector until the day she actually nipped at a friend who took one
step too close to me. With my eyes opened, I began to notice it wasn't
just my friend. Kelly was also protecting me from the other dogs and
cats in my pack. The change in our household was a job that required a
lot of overtime. I also was caring for my father who had fallen and was
recovering from a broken hip. They did not get along; his walker scared
her, and he was afraid of her. I had to confine Kelly when I was at
work, and her little heart was broken.
Jealousy and possessive behavior in dogs can be a serious behavior

problem. Some dogs will exhibit signs of depression or a loss of
appetite. They may be withdrawn or show signs of aggression that
you've never seen before. Kelly would lie beside me on the couch, and
if another dog or cat came too close, she would leap at them with a
high pitched warning bark. She was like a rattlesnake lashing out. This
stressed out not only her, but the other pets and me as well.
So how do you deal with jealousy and possessive behavior in dogs?

The solution isn't as difficult as it may seem, but it requires consistent
dedication and a calm steady hand. Whether you know it or not, before
your dog became jealous, the two of you had a daily routine. Perhaps it
was a morning walk before going to work, playing ball after work, or a
relaxing ear scratching session while watching TV. To a dog, routine is
important because he sees any change as him losing his place by your
side and in your heart.
Reassure him with extra attention and maintain a daily schedule of

walking, feeding, talking to and playing with him. Encourage positive
1 of 1 7/20/2010 1:49 PM
ASPCA - Virtual Pet Behaviorist - Aggression in Dogs http://www.aspcabehavior.org/articles/49/Aggression-in-Dogs.aspx
Aggression in Dogs Print this Page
Aggression is the most common and most serious behavior problem in dogs. It’s also the
number-one reason why pet parents seek professional help from behaviorists, trainers
and veterinarians.
What Is Aggression?
The term “aggression” refers to a wide variety of behaviors that occur for a multitude of
reasons in various circumstances. Virtually all wild animals are aggressive when guarding
their territories, defending their offspring and protecting themselves. Species that live in
groups, including people and dogs, also use aggression and the threat of aggression to
keep the peace and to negotiate social interactions.
To say that a dog is “aggressive” can mean a whole host of things. Aggression
encompasses a range of behaviors that usually begins with warnings and can culminate
in an attack. Dogs may abort their efforts at any point during an aggressive encounter. A
dog that shows aggression to people usually exhibits some part of the following sequence
of increasingly intense behaviors:
Becoming very still and rigid

Guttural bark that sounds threatening
Lunging forward or charging at the person with no contact
Mouthing, as though to move or control the person, without applying significant
pressure
“Muzzle punch” (the dog literally punches the person with her nose)
Growl
Showing teeth
Snarl (a combination of growling and showing teeth)
Snap
Quick nip that leaves no mark
Quick bite that tears the skin
Bite with enough pressure to cause a bruise
Bite that causes puncture wounds
Repeated bites in rapid succession
Bite and shake
Dogs don’t always follow this sequence, and they often do several of the behaviors above
simultaneously. Many times, pet parents don’t recognize the warning signs before a bite,
so they perceive their dogs as suddenly flying off the handle. However, that’s rarely the
case. It can be just milliseconds between a warning and a bite, but dogs rarely bite
without giving some type of warning beforehand.
Classification of Aggressive Behavior

If your dog has been aggressive in the past or you suspect she could become aggressive,
take time to evaluate the situations that have upset her. Who bore the brunt of her
aggression? When and where did it happen? What else was going on at the time? What
had just happened or was about to happen to your dog? What seemed to stop her
aggression? Learning the answers to these questions can clarify the circumstances that
trigger your dog’s aggressive reaction and provide insight into the reasons for her
behavior. You need an accurate diagnosis before you can hope to help your dog.
Aggressive behavior problems in dogs can be classified in different ways. A beneficial

scheme for understanding why your dog is aggressive is based on the function or
purpose of the aggression. If you think of aggression this way, you can determine what
motivates your dog to behave aggressively and identify what she hopes to gain from her
behavior.
Territorial Aggression
Dogs’ wild relatives are territorial. They live in certain area, and they defend this area
from intruders. Wolves are highly territorial. If a coyote or a wolf who’s not part of a pack
invades their territory, the resident wolves will attack and drive off the intruder. Some
dogs display the same tendencies. They bark and charge at people or other animals
encroaching on their home turf. Dogs are often valued for this level of territorial behavior.
However, some dogs will attack and bite an intruder, whether the intruder is friend or
foe. Territorial aggression can occur along the boundary regularly patrolled by a dog or at
the boundaries of her pet parents’ property. Other dogs show territorial aggression only
toward people or other animals coming into the home. Male and female dogs are equally
prone to territorial aggression. Puppies are rarely territorial. Territorial behavior usually
appears as puppies mature into adolescence or adulthood, at one to three years of age.
Protective Aggression
Dogs are a social species. If they were left on their own, they would live together in small
groups, or packs, of family and friends. If one member of a pack is in danger, the others
typically rush in to help defend that individual. This is classified as protective aggression
because the dogs are protecting one of their own. Pet dogs may show the same type of
aggressive behavior when they think that one of their family members or friends (human
or animal) is in peril. Sometimes dogs reserve protective aggression for individuals they
consider particularly vulnerable. A dog who has never shown aggression to strangers in
the past might start behaving aggressively when she has a litter of puppies. Likewise, a
dog might first show protective aggression when her pet parents bring a human child
into the family. While this behavior sounds appealing at first glance, problems arise when
the protective dog starts to treat everyone outside the family, including friends and
1 of 1 7/20/2010 1:50 PM
Bark Avenue Daycamp http://blog.barkavenuedaycamp.com/
Like all of my articles, this is not meant to cover every possibility when it comes to animals. This is just something to think about
with your dog, and hopefully get you started in the right direction. Clients often ask me when guarding is appropriate, so I just jotted
down some thoughts.
Many people get dogs both for the love that they give us and because they are such natural guardians of their home and family. I love
all dogs, but I tend to gravitate towards the guarding breeds for those very reasons. I enjoy having a dog that is great with children,
friendly towards all adults, but will also guard my family if needed.
Unfortunately many people have issues with their dogs guarding or becoming possessive when they should be acting friendly. First
we need to make a distinction between protective and possessive behaviors. Socializing a dog is the process of showing a dog what
is normal in a human world and what isn’t. When we socialize a dog we are teaching them that it is normal for a strange person to
come up and say hi to us and maybe reach out and pet them. Through time they realize what is normal and they start to read our body
language and our emotions in these situations. As they age we ensure that they never show aggression in these situations but they will
naturally be on guard for something different. If a stranger were to run at you screaming and you became agitated and scared your dog
should realize that something is different and will probably react by barking and growling. This is one of the few times when a dog is
acting protective, and doing it in the proper way.
Many dog owners see their dog acting possessive and mistake it for protective behavior. Possessive behavior is when a dog acts
aggressive to claim their owner, house, yard, or any other object. Claiming something is when a dog is asserting his dominance to
tell someone that this belongs to him and not to touch it. This behavior is never acceptable for your pet dog to be showing. The dog
is not reacting to a dangerous situation where he should be on guard, he is simply becoming aggressive because he is the alpha at this
point in time. If a stranger rings the doorbell and you let him into the house, the dog should not be barking or growling due to the fact
that you let the person in and are not showing any fear or anxiety yourself. If your dog is acting aggressive then one of two things is
going on. If your dog hasn’t been properly socialized then he may be trying to protect you due to his incomplete knowledge of the
human world. If he has been properly socialized and he is acting in this manner than he is probably acting possessive and is telling
the person to stay out of HIS house.
In my own house I have very specific rules about when my dogs can and cannot guard our property. It is never acceptable to bark or
growl at children even if they walk all the way up to the screen door. I cannot see any reason why someone would need protected
from a child, so I don’t ever allow this. It is also never allowed to bark at people or dogs when they are out on the street or
sidewalk, it’s not our property so they can’t guard it. If an adult stranger is in our yard or knocking at the door I do want my dogs to
bark to alert me. In this situation barking is a good thing to me as long as it is under control. I don’t want jumping or scratching at the
windows and I don’t want vicious barking. The purpose of the barking is for the dog to tell me that someone is there so that I can
make the decision. Once I have seen the person I then ask the dogs to quiet down. The goal is that the dog alerts you to a potential
issue, you evaluate it, and you then tell the dog what to do.
Of course with dogs there is an exception to every rule. A dog could be socialized and could still react aggressively towards a man
in a big coat with a hat on due to fear of his outfit. In that situation you should then continue socializing with new people and outfits
until his fear is gone. To fully explain how to socialize a dog, help ease his fears, and correct him when he becomes aggressive
would take an entire book. Hopefully from reading this article you get enough knowledge to know what is acceptable, what isn’t, and
when to call in a professional if you need help.
1 of 1 7/20/2010 1:54 PM
Canine University: News -- Canine Behavior - So Your Dog Is Reactive! http://www.canineuniversity.com/articles/behavior/behave_12.html
So Your Dog Is Reactive!

Reactive is the term coined by dog trainers and owners who
own dogs that overreact to certain stimuli. It might be the
sight of other dogs, people, kids, loud noises and chaos. The
dog’s reaction to these stimuli is usually a bark and lunge type
of behavior that scares the pants off both the person or dog
being barked at and the person holding the leash. Reactivity
may be part of the dogs genetic make up or could be from a
lack of social experience or a particularly scary experience.
Overall, dogs that are reactive can benefit from lots of training
and remedial socialization and some simple management tools
as well. If you own a dog like this take heart, there are many
of us who share those embarrassing moments with you and
through training (and lots of it) you will see the light at the end
of the tunnel.
First of all realize that your dog’s reactivity is not as

unpredictable as you might originally think. Most dogs who
exhibit this behavior problem do so in specific circumstances.
Your dog’s trigger might be the close proximity of other dogs,
or only male dogs or only female dogs. Maybe you’ve noticed
that it only happens on leash, or when there are toys, food or
other resources around. Maybe your dog overreacts to men
with beards or people wearing hats, or toddlers who reach for
him. Whatever the instance the first step towards getting the
problem under control is to try to isolate all the areas in which
your dog reacts and write them down. This will not only make
the problem far less unpredictable but will give you
information on where to start your training program.
Once you have all the places, times and circumstances down
you can then decide where you want to begin. Look at your list
and decide which of the instances is the most important for
you to gain better control over your dog. If your dog is
nervous and reactive around young children and there are
several in your neighborhood you might start with kids.
Someone else’s dog may react to dogs on leash and because
they are constantly bumping into other dog owners on their
walks they might consider this a top priority.
Now that you have identified where to begin here are some
tools you’ll need to make your program a success.
The Right Equipment

As many of you who have taken classes with us are aware I
am a big fan of the gentle leader head collars. Dogs who are
reactive should have one of these on at all times when they
are out walking. Not only do these collars give you much more
control, but they offer the dog a sense of security as well. By
guiding the dog by its head you are able to give him a lot
more information without injury or correction. If your dog, no
matter how big or how small starts to react to someone or
something, you have the option of turning and leading your
dog away safely and preventing anything bad from happening.
It does take time to introduce this piece of equipment and if
you need assistance in introducing it directions can be obtained
at our training center.
A second piece of equipment you will need is a clicker and

treats. The click should mark any moment when your dog is in
the presence of the stimuli but is not reacting to it. You should
be reinforcing generously any other behavior other than
reactivity in order for the dog to learn an alternate way to
behave.
1 of 3 7/20/2010 1:57 PM
A Good Shaping Plan

No one gets very far without knowing a little bit about what
they want and where they are going. You’ve already written
down where and when your dog is overeactive, now you must
decide what you want your dog to do instead. If you don’t
define your goal in terms of what you want your dog to do
instead you will not be able to reward your dog for choosing it
rather than reacting. Identifying the rewardable behavior is
the key to any successful shaping plan. Once you have set a
goal you now must sit down with paper and a pen and break it
down into trainable steps. For instance if my dog reacts to
dogs on leash my goal might be to have him look at me when
he sees another dog. To get to that end goal I’m going to have
to break his training down into lots of little tiny rewardable
steps. I might teach him a leave it command which means
stop what you are doing (looking at the other dog) and look
back at me. I will have to start this in the absence of other
dogs at first because that situation is too distracting for him,
and later build other dogs into the plan. I might teach a leave
it in my hand, then on the floor, then thrown at a distance. I
might start off with food leave its, then graduate to tissue,
socks and toys, people and dogs at a great distance (more
than 20 feet away). As the dog showed that he could be
successful at this I would then gradually decrease that distance
until the dog could leave another dog in close proximity. By
mapping out all the steps I would have a clear plan for
achieving my goal of a dog that looks back at me when he
sees other dogs. You need to be this specific (and in some
cases even more so) for each instance that you want to train.
A Simple Tool For Under Socialized Dogs

Targeting is a behavior that we can use to build up confidence
in dogs that are afraid of certain types of people or unfamiliar
objects. This behavior involves the dog touching his nose to
the palm of your hand for a click and treat. You start off with a
food treat in the palm of your hand with your thumb holding it
in place. Click your dog for bumping his nose to your hand and
give up the treat. After six repetitions remove the treat from
your palm and repeat the same thing again, this time the dog
is bumping your hand for the click, but the treat is coming
from your pocket or bait pouch. Repeat this until the dog is
really enthusiastic, then start moving your target hand so that
your dog must follow it for a step or two in order to touch it.
Change position, repeat the whole thing while in a standing or

kneeling position, in a different room, around a distraction.
When the dog is readily offering the behavior in all different
positions, go ahead and add another person to the game. This
part is easy, the other person sits close to you and you take
turns offering your hands for a nose bump, clicking and
treating each repetition. Start with a food lure in the new
persons hand for the first couple of reps until your dog starts
to catch on to the game. Once he seems to understand it, start
moving away from each other so that the dog has to run back
and forth between the two of you. Gradually transfer the touch
to objects by holding your hand near the new object until he is
bumping the object instead of your hand and then start putting
distance slowly between you and the object. This tool is
invaluable when retraining a dog who spooks aggressively or
fearfully in the presence of strangers or new objects.
Owning a reactive dog is not easy, there are limits on where

you go, and what time of day you go there. You may choose
to do more management and less training by keeping your
reactive dog home and not taking him out in public much.
There are dogs that blossom with training and generalize it
2 of 3 7/20/2010 1:57 PM
There are dogs that blossom with training and generalize it

easily and dogs that need training for every little detail of each
new situation. Whatever you decide, realize that reactive dogs
are responding emotionally to whatever stimulus is present
and no amount of yelling or correction will ever help them be
better. Being your dogs advocate by using the right equipment
to control him, providing as much training as you can and
keeping him safe are your most important responsibilities. At
any point if you feel your dog is beyond reactive, that he is
truly dangerous or has bitten people or got in fights with other
dogs, seek the help of a qualified professional in implementing
the appropriate training program for your dogs problem.
3 of 3 7/20/2010 1:57 PM
Solutions For Reactive Dog Behavior http://www.spiritdog.com/reactivearticle.htm
Reducing Reactive Dog Behavior

by Kathy Cascade
Note: This article is a summary of the concepts and exercises presented in the S.A.N.E. Solutions for Extreme
Dog Behavior® Seminar.
Dealing with fearful, reactive, or aggressive dog behavior is certainly challenging and often a topic of heated
debate. A snarling, lunging dog at the end of a leash can be intimidating and downright dangerous.
Unfortunately, human reactions often worsen the problem, as do training and handling techniques that only
serve to intensify the dog's fear and anxiety. With the increase in "dangerous dog laws" and the number of
dogs labeled as "aggressive" surrendered to shelters, effective and respectful solutions to this problem are
essential.
For the most part, I believe these reactive behaviors are based in fear and develop as a coping mechanism
to stressful environmental triggers. (I prefer to use the term "reactivity" as it is actually more descriptive of
a specific reaction, i.e. barking or growling that occurs in a specific environmental context. Labeling a dog
"aggressive" is often loaded with judgment and may not be an accurate description of the dog's behavior the
majority of time). The first priority of any animal (or person for that matter) is to feel safe. We are all aware
of the instinctual "fight or flight" response to feeling threatened, but what happens when we take away the
option to escape from the scary thing? Everything changes when a dog is held on a tight leash or cornered in
a small, contained space. Nothing increases anxiety more than being "trapped" when feeling nervous or
scared. Imagine how you would feel at your next dentist or doctor appointment if the technician strapped
you to the chair for your procedure!
Dogs use a different language to tell us when they are feeling worried or nervous, so we must learn to
observe their specific body language and more subtle communication signals. Turid Rugass has eloquently
described what she refers to as "calming signals" that dogs use to communicate non-threatening intent to
one another and to us. In her latest book, "For the Love of a Dog, Understanding Emotion in You and Your
Best Friend", Patricia McConnell shares several great photographs of canine facial expressions and body
language. From a TTouch perspective, we also know that posture and balance reflect emotional states.
Recognizing these visual cues and responding to the dog's need to feel safe is the first step in a process I call
"building trust one experience at a time."
Working with reactivity requires an integrated approach designed to help dogs (and people) reduce stress,
build confidence, and become more adaptable. The goal is to give the dog a new experience of feeling safe,
relaxed, and in control while in a challenging environment or in the presence of other dogs or people, which
previously would have elicited a fearful response.
The S.A.N.E. Solutions for Extreme Dog Behavior® Seminar is a collection of concepts, tools, and exercises
designed to accomplish the goals stated above. Tellington TTouch is one of the key components of this
approach. We know that states of fear, anxiety, and arousal are associated with dramatic physiological
changes in the body through the release of powerful hormones and neurochemicals. One of the most basic
reactions is an increase in muscle tension throughout the body, which affects posture and movement. We
can use TTouch bodywork to help reduce this physiological arousal and muscle tension, which underlies
much reactive behavior.
Communicating in a non-threatening and effective manner is also critical to reducing dog reactivity and we
need effective tools to help the dog learn new responses. The use of a head halter and/or harness with two
points of contact allows us to remove pressure from the dog's neck (discussed below), and give more
meaningful and subtle leash signals.
In order to give the dog an opportunity to feel safe while learning more appropriate responses to other dogs
(or people), we need to engage the dog in a purposeful movement activity. Movement removes the feeling of
being trapped, and with frequent pauses to experience a state of physical balance, we also influence
emotional and mental balance. We can accomplish this using the TTouch Confidence Course®.
Reducing Reactivity: Keys to Success
Remove pressure from the neck.
1 of 3 7/20/2010 1:59 PM
Remove pressure from the neck.

One of the first and most important things we can easily do to help a dog feel more secure is to
remove pressure from the dog's neck. Even the slightest pressure on the neck restricts the breath. In
the moment of a fearful or anxious encounter (and this can include just looking at another dog or
person), a sensation of choking or not being able to breathe only heightens the concern. In addition,
one leash contact to a collar on the neck is not the most effective way to rebalance a dog that is
pulling, straining, or leaning forward. The use of a head collar with a second point of contact on a
harness or flat collar removes the possibility of constant tension on the neck and helps us to bring the
dog back into a position of balance on all four feet. The head collar also allows us to encourage the dog
to avert his eyes or slightly turn his head away from another dog (which is a calming signal to the
other dog) with a very small signal.
Allow the dog to have enough space.

Space is the single most important factor to averting any reactive behavior and helping a dog feel
safe! By paying very close attention to the dog's signals, we can quickly figure out where the spatial
zone of comfort is for any particular dog. This allows us to start the process of slowly introducing
another dog in the safe, systematic process described below. Often this is easier to accomplish in an
outdoor setting, which allows for greater distance between dogs if needed.
Start with a neutral dog.

A neutral dog is one who is confident, uses appropriate calming signals, and most importantly, will not
react to another dog "yelling" at him! Often a good neutral dog can illicit a calm response from another
nervous or fearful dog without the handler having to do anything.
Check your own emotions.

It is important that the handler not react to the dog's reactions. This is not always easy if it is your
own dog! Maintaining a calm, confident, and neutral emotional state when working with a reactive dog
can greatly influence the dog's emotional state. Releasing tension from your body and being aware of
your own balance/neutral pelvis position makes you much more effective in the event the dog does
react or suddenly pulls you toward the other dog. A word of caution: If you do not feel confident
working with dogs that are reactive to other dogs and/or especially to people, then I strongly advise
you to get help from an experienced trainer or practitioner.
The Reactivity Reduction Exercise
As we often say in TTouch, we want to set the dog up to be successful. This means that we will do everything
we can to create a situation that allows the dog to feel safe and does not illicit a fearful or aggressive
reaction. Remember, adequate spacing will be the crucial factor. It is important to allow the fearful dog to
look at the other dog. We all know that if something is scary, we want to know what it is doing and where it
is! Allowing the dog to look for a few seconds can relieve his anxiety, however if the dog continues to stare
or get aroused, then simply ask the dog to avert his eyes with a soft signal on the head halter. Moving or
changing direction can also engage the dog's attention again
The question often arises about the use of food rewards in working with aggression and reactivity. Other
methods use food as a primary distraction to keep a dog from looking at another dog, and avoid any
reaction. I certainly endorse the mindful use of food and reward in training, and sometimes it is a very
successful tool. However, food can also be over stimulating and our goal is to have the dog remain in a calm,
relaxed and balanced physical state. I also believe that food as a distraction does not necessarily teach a dog
to feel confident, but simply overrules the reaction for the moment. If the dog does not get over aroused
with the food, then certainly it can also be used occasionally during the exercise.
Each step of this exercise is slightly more challenging and the decision to go to the next step will depend on
the dog's reactions and our close observation of body language. It is also important to keep the sessions
relatively short, usually lasting from ten to no more than twenty minutes.
Sequence of Steps (Click on thumbnail to view larger picture).
2 of 3 7/20/2010 1:59 PM
Following the neutral dog at a safe distance in a large circular pattern. This can be done on the outer
area of the confidence course. The handlers will walk the dogs for a few feet and then come to a
momentary stop to allow the dogs to experience standing in nice balance with no tension on the leash.
The pauses are short, and then the handlers begin walking again. (In the photo sequence above, we
are working to reduce the German Shepard's reactivity).
Begin using the TTouch labyrinth. The first time through, the reactive dog enters the labyrinth just as
the neutral dog is making the second turn and exiting. The dogs are not actually facing one another at
any point. Gradually decrease the distance between the dogs. Another person can strategically step
between the dogs at the point in the labyrinth where they face one another.
Walking in parallel. Now have both dogs walk over the poles in parallel with adequate distance
between them. A third person can also walk between the dogs. Repeat this step a few times, gradually
decreasing the distance between the dogs if possible. Allow the dogs to stop every few feet to stand in
balance, and watch for calming signals. When the fearful dog exhibits calming signals and looks away
from the other dog, I consider the exercise a great success!
Walking towards and then past the neutral dog. Again, a third person can assist by walking between
the dogs if needed. You can also use cones as a partial barrier. Gradually have the dogs come to a stop
facing one another briefly if possible.
Always stop the exercise when you hear that little voice in your head saying, "Wow this is really going
well. Maybe we should let the dogs greet one another." I say this with a little humor, but seriously, it
is important to stop with success and not try to push too far. It is also not critical that the dogs greet
one another, and I rarely do this within the training session. You may also introduce a second dog and
begin the process again as the next step in the progression.
In addition to helping a fearful dog feel more confident in the presence of other dogs, I have used this
exercise to introduce bicycles, skateboards, horses, and even men wearing funny hats!
One Last Consideration
While this approach is a positive and effective method to help dogs develop confidence and better coping
skills, any dog that has exhibited extreme reactive behavior or has a bite history is always a management
risk. It is important that people understand this responsibility and recognize the commitment involved in
working with a dog with these issues.
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dog aggression, aggressive dog behavior and reactive dogs, modern vs trad... http://101-dog-training-tips.com/Behavior/dog_aggression.shtml
Dog aggression, aggressive dog behavior and

reactive dogs
modern vs traditional dog training
The subject of aggression and dogs really gets at some important issues of dog training.
How we define aggression may indicate the orientation of different training methods. I do
believe that aggression is present in more social encounters than do many of the newer
“positive reinforcement” trainers. Someone from a positive reinforcement style of dog
training has described the positive reinforcement oriented trainers to me as “modern
trainers.” I will use their term “modern trainer” in this article. While I consider myself a
reinforcement oriented trainer I do not consider myself a “modern trainers” or a “traditional
trainers.” Because of the growing resentment between the two training styles I soon plan
on not even calling myself a dog trainer. I am going my own way to establish a new way of
civilizing the living room wolf as well as the killer who sits in the chair.
How does one distinguish between a reactive dog and an aggressive dog? Or are “modern
trainers” trying to not believe in aggression?
It appears a big reason “modern trainers” use reactive apposed to aggressive is to

distance themselves from what have been described as “traditional trainers.” It appears
that the real reason “modern trainers” started using the term reactive is to gain a
competitive edge though product differentiation. Apparently “modern trainers” felt a need
to differentiate themselves by putting a positive spin on what many consider an
undesirable behavioral trait. This makes sense because, “modern trainers” want to portray
an all positive image.
It’s logical that “modern trainers” would undervalue aggression because their foundation
of understanding is based in the traditions of operant behavior. The father of operant
behavior B.F. Skinner had a dislike for instinct and emotion as an explanation for behavior.
An interesting perspective comes from the opposite camp in the debate about behavior,
the ethologist. Konrad Lorenz gives quite a different picture of behavior and aggression.
While some if his ideas are dated many still hold true. I am always fascinated by the role
of ritualized aggression. The modern version of ritualized aggression as a possible
emergent behavior holds even more promise than did Lorenz’s. It is my understanding
that ritualized aggression is the glue that holds many parts of a social system together.
This includes dog packs and families.
What is the proper term for describing undesirable aggression? At this time I now use the
terms undesirable aggression or agonistic aggression. I will also sometimes use the term
active and passive defense response when describing aggression. Traditionally agonistic
aggression has been used to describe aggression between the same species.
Agonistic aggression includes threatening, avoidance, and appeasement. For

appeasement to occur does not there also need to be a socially acceptable threat? Isn’t
this threat most likely in the form of dominance? The idea of aggression stemming from
dog vs. dog and dog vs. human as two different types of aggression raises the whole
question of, do dogs display dominance towards people? Or is it even possible for dogs to
display dominance towards people? I can see threatening and avoidance with another
species but the appeasement part of a dog’s behavior always makes me wonder.
Since aggression is a big component of normal social interaction, I feel we need a term to
describe agonistic types of aggression in the context of human and dog encounters as
well as dog on dog encounters.
My working definition of aggression is threatening to engage in or actually engaging in

fight and bite behavior, or a strong predisposition to engage in this kind of behavior.
Aggressive threats and/or biting are often associated with fearful or threatening body
postures in response to a perceived threat. We can use the dog’s body posture and other
signs such as dilated pupil, stiffness, tucked or raised tail, and growling as indicators of
an active defensive or offensive emotional state
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dog aggression, aggressive dog behavior and reactive dogs, modern vs trad... http://101-dog-training-tips.com/Behavior/dog_aggression.shtml
My true definition of aggression is broader and more inclusive.
Many people I deal with upon first encounter do not want to admit their dog has an
aggression problem. I often here excuses for biting or descriptions that hide the behavior
in euphemisms, such as he’s doing a little nipping. Or he prefers not being around new
people. If a dog is defensively or offensive threatening which could include grabbing with
the mouth, it’s probably aggressive behavior. This is not always the case, but it usually is.
Before a person can deal with their dog’s aggression problem they need to admit and
realize they have a dog with aggressive tendencies. Dog bites often occur because the
owner did not take the proper precautions that are needed when owning an aggressive
dog. I don’t think aggression places undo responsibility on the dog, but I do believe it
places a great deal of responsibility on the owner.
If you do own an aggressive dog there are some precautions you can take to avoid
tragedy.
The first is to teach your dog to accept wearing a muzzle. I feel this is a skill all pet dogs
should have. Even friendly dogs should become comfortable with a muzzle. If your dog
should ever be in great pain it may bite. A dog who can wear a muzzle will be easier for
professionals and first responders to care for in emergencies.
I used to have a very aggressive antisocial dog and to protect the public I always kept him
behind three gates. If you own an aggressive dog have at least one extra layer of security
between your dog and the public. You may need to install an entrance gate within your
current yard gate. It may also be necessary to put up a secure enclosure preventing
access to the front door of the house. If you have company a dog run and security doors
inside may also be necessary. Often temporary measures can be taken while going
through a dog training program.
2 of 2 7/20/2010 2:01 PM

Dog Aggression Guarding Training

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Outlaw Chinooks || Chinook Dogs || Dog Training || Minnesota || 612.558.1369 http://www.outlawchinooks.com/Pack_Leader.

Leader of the Pack

Do you let your dog?

No Such Thing as a Free Lunch

You Always Eat First

Will Work for Food

Up the Down Staircase and Out the Door

Walk with Me and Investigate

Your Dog Can Count

Biting and Nipping are Never Okay

My Your Leg is Lovely

The Bed is Mine

What's Going on with My Dog?

If You Need More Help

Dog training, especially learning to train a dog with an aggression problem, is a

How Did This Happen?

THREE THINGS YOU MUST KNOW ABOUT FIXING AGGRESSION

Timing: Timing is the dog's ability to associate either a positive or

negative outcome in response to a specific behavior. In this case, the

Consistency: Every time your dog exhibits a specific behavior, he

Motivation: Most people know about timing and consistency, but

In regard to aggression, your dog must associate a good, motivational correction

The RIGHT Ways to Correct Your Dog

1. Build a good relationship with your dog.

The WRONG Ways to Correct Your Dog

1. Never hit with your hand, an object or something they have

All animal training is based on reinforcement – intentional or unintentional.

Eliminating Unintentional Reinforcement

Remember to be consistent with your companions, they like it.

Down in the Mouth

The Big Switcheroo

Guarding is when a dog

How to treat the

idea is to create positive

Physically punishing, scolding,

To treat food guarding

Begin when he's playing with

With one hand, pick

Approach your dog's

All of these exercises usually

In addition, spay or neuter

Bottom line: Guarding is

When Your Dog Thinks He's Boss

Leader of the Pack

Curb your dog's guarding

If food, bones or chewies turn your sweetie into a

Does your dog eat alone or intrai

Our family dogs should allow us to reach down and pick

Early training is optimal

One very helpful training exercise consists of teaching

Start by putting a tiny dab of plain cream cheese or

to hearing "give me that" with the positive of adding a

Always give your dog an adequate amount of food at

Working with the dog who already

territory,and taking charge of the resources. Becoming

Start by taking up all bones and toys and putting them in

In relationship to his food bowl, start simply. Have your

If you think he is likely to have a temper tantrum, then

Be patient and persistent, yet calm

When starting leadership exercises of any kind, including

bones and toys. Keep in mind, however, that dogs view

If implementing these suggestions does not cause a

It's mine! How to reduce