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GCI1803_cover.indd 1 2/20/18 2:56 PM
Untitled-5 1 4/13/16 9:21 AM
Untitled-3 1 2/19/18 4:39 PM
 CONTENTS MARCH 2018 | VOLUME 186, NUMBER 3

26 FEATURES
10 US Prestige Beauty 2017:
By the Numbers
10 [podcast] Packaging
Design for Omnichannel
DIGITAL

Consumers
11 Travel Beauty Retail Takes Off
12 Amazon’s Top 2017 Beauty Products
16 Customization: the New Beauty
Paradigm
Various levels of individualized products and experiences are
reshaping the industry.
16 BY IMOGEN MATTHEWS

22 2018 World Perfumery Congress:

The Future of Fragrance
The latest ingredient and formulation innovations, brand
leaders and marketers, perfumers, key suppliers and more
come together for the world’s foremost fragrance event.

26 The Holy Grail of Textured Hair Care

Consumers with curls, coils and waves are still looking for
their perfect products, creating vast opportunities for hair

36 care brands.
BY MICHELLE BREYER

26 From the Vault: Inclusive

Beauty
DIGITAL

30 30 How Starter Formulas

Accelerate Beauty Innovation
Suppliers must increasingly feature their materials and
technologies in starter formulas to support clients’ rapid
innovation and, ultimately, gain ingredient market share.
BY CHERIE BUZIAK

36 Elements of Beauty
Inspiring ingredients and innovative claims drive new product
development.

53 3 Trends for Tomorrow’s Skin Care

2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 www

GCI1803_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 2 2/20/18 3:11 PM

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All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.

Untitled-3 1 2/8/18 9:52 AM

 CONTENTS
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Assistant Editors Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com
Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com
Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Fragrance
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Alyssa Derby

22
Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
Senior Graphic Designer Hon Bannapradist
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
56 Pulp Riot’s David CORPORATE
Thurston: Ready for Partner & CEO George Fox
the Next Phase of Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Controller Linda Getner
Growth Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard

62 Scentbird Disrupts Executive Assistant Maria Romero

Fragrance
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
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Allured Business Media
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DEPARTMENTS 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192
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www.Allured.com
Flavorcon
6 Spark: What Are You Made Of? Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Skin Inc. magazine
BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED World Perfumery Congress

10 Markets & Trends

50 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe
In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557
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54 Hair E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com

Address: Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

58 Makeup
Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
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Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.

60 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance
Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change
to become effective. The publisher will attempt to handle unsolicited articles with care, but the magazine assumes no
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Address inquiries regarding editorial policy and writer guidelines to the editor. The acceptance of advertising does not
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Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June,
July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media.

RESOURCES Address: Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403.
www.GCImagazine.com
All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry,
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403. Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403
and additional mailing offices.

63 Products & Services Showcase POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009.

64 Advertiser Index
Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain tech-
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information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for
any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or affiliated
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Copyright 2018: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry and GCI are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.

4  Contents   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 4 2/19/18 10:49 AM

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Untitled-3 1 2/8/18 9:53 AM

 SPARK | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

What Are You Made Of?

JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
Editor in Chief
jallured@allured.com
@GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

ALISA MARIE BEYER

I
Coastal Salt & Soul
ngredients have always been critical to the success of beauty and personal care
MOLLY BROOKS brands, but the role they play has expanded beyond functionality and benefits.
Sephora Collection, North America Of course, ingredients offer the consumer the product performance that
they seek, while building the foundation of marketing stories. This year’s in-
MARIE ALICE DIBON
cosmetics Global in Amsterdam (Page 36) will be rife with enhanced sensory
Alice Communications, Inc.
materials, transformative textures and unique effects.
JESSICA ESTRADA Similarly, new and existing ingredients are continuously breaking fresh
Hue For Every Man ground in active claims, from pollution and blue light defense to epigenetic and
microbiome benefits. This is truly where the science of beauty meets marketing.
MICHAEL MALINSKY New or repurposed ingredients can also inspire novel demo/starter formulations
WUNDER2 (Page 30), which in turn can provide new avenues of product development for both
R&D and marketing.
FADI MOURAD In addition, the right ingredient label can foster trust in the consumer, whether
through natural or “gentle” materials, or via the absence of so called “ingredients
ADA POLLA
of concern.”
Alchimie Forever,
However, perhaps most intriguingly, ingredients and claims have, in some cases,
The Polla Beauty Group
become as or more important than branding in the path to purchase.
ART RICH, Ph.D. In a recent report (Page 12), Spencer Millerberg, CEO of One Click Retail, said,
A. Rich Development “Our research shows beauty customers on Amazon are searching specifically for
product ingredients, especially those with functional benefits. The most successful
RICK RUFFOLO manufacturers have adapted to this, listing the key ingredients in titles and other
R4 Innovations key areas to drive discover­ability.”
As the latest wave of new innovation hits the in-cosmetics Global show floor,
CRISTINA SAMUELS ingredients matter now more than ever.
Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND
Epiphany

Follow us on Twitter SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends
@GCI_Magazine www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

6  Spark   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_Spark_fcx.indd 6 2/19/18 8:38 AM

Untitled-3 1 1/26/17 10:15 AM
 ROUNDUP [Products, Equipment & Services]
Luxury and Prestige Packaging, Ingredients and New
Actives

1. Black Castor Oil

1
Natural Sourcing, LLC
www.naturalsourcing.com
For centuries, black castor oil has been regarded as
the secret to luxurious, shiny hair. Natural Sourcing’s
Black Castor Oil is authentically produced by roasting
castor seeds prior to extracting the rich, emollient oil. It
is perfectly suited for conditioners and other intensive
moisturizing hair and skin care formulations.

2. Custom Packaging for Luxury and 2

Prestige Brands
Neenah Packaging
www.neenahpackaging.com
For packaging that is luxurious to the eye and extraor-
dinary to the touch, consider bespoke solutions from
Neenah Packaging. With Neenah Packaging’s custom
capabilities you can create virtually any color, texture or
finish you want to achieve. Never flat. Always desired.

3. Campo Elaeis Fruit Oil PWMR

Campo Research 3
www.campo-research.com
Campo Elaeis Fruit Oil PWMR (INCI: Elaeis (Palm) Fruit
Oil) is a natural green plant fruit-extracted bio-solvent
oil that functions as solvent in natural and organic
cosmetics, fine perfumeries, natural decorative color
cosmetics and natural hair color protection care.

4. Unique Antimicrobial Peptide Complex

Featuring Granactive Acne
Grant Industries 4
www.grantinc.com
Granactive Acne contains a patented antimicrobial
peptide for use in products associated with treating
acne symptoms. This product can be formulated with
an approved OTC acne ingredient, like salicylic acid, or
simply used in a toner to help maintain healthy skin.
This allows salicylic acid to be effectively formulated
near the 0.5% level.

8 Roundup Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

GCI1803_Roundup_fcx.indd 8 2/19/18 8:39 AM

 5. Lipochroman Molecule
5
Lipotec USA, Inc.
www.na.lipotec.com
Lipochroman molecule (INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol)
is a bio-inspired antioxidant that confers triple protection
from ROS, RNS and RCS. It aids in detoxification of toxic
substances coming both from the environment (xenobiotics)
and inner body (reactive species). As a result, it may help
improve the appearance of signs of aging.

www.GCImagazine.com Roundup 9

GCI1803_Roundup_fcx.indd 9 2/19/18 8:39 AM

 MARKETS & TRENDS
US Prestige Beauty 2017:
By the Numbers

A
ccording to new data from The
NPD Groupa, the US prestige
beauty market grew 6% year-over-
year in 2017.
“Change was the theme of the beauty
industry in 2017, from the shifts in trends
and category performance, to the wave of
mergers and acquisitions which show no signs
of abating in the near future,” said Larissa
Jensen, executive director and beauty industry
analyst at The NPD Group. “The industry $17.7 billion: US prestige beauty sales
has not only adapted to this change, but has
continued to achieve strong and consistent $8.1 billion: prestige makeup sales
growth, as it has been for the last few years.
$5.6 billion: prestige skin care sales
We can expect change to continue to be the
catalyst of growth for the industry in 2018.”
$4.0 billion: prestige fragrance sales
• Skin care: Top skin care formats included
$80.4 million: prestige home scents market
masks, facial exfoliators, cleansers and
other face products (including essences
and facial sprays). Stalwart sub-segments 4% growth of US prestige fragrance sales
such as sun care, hair care and facial
moisturizers—the segment’s largest sales 6% growth of 2017 US prestige beauty sales over 2016
by dollar volume—also fared well.
• Makeup: High-volume segments such 6% growth of US prestige makeup sales
as face products, including foundation,
bronzer and highlighters—as well as eye 9% growth of US prestige skin care segment
shadow—drove growth.
• Fragrance: Ancillary and gift sets drove 14% growth of US artisanal fragrance sales
growth in 2017. n
32% growth of US prestige natural fragrance sales
a
All figures courtesy of The NPD Group; www.npd.com 45% portion of US prestige beauty gains attributable to skin care

CVS Pharmacy has introduced its Beauty Mark watermark, which will
appear on imagery that has not been materially altered. Any imagery
provided by brands that has been altered will be clearly marked,
according to the retailer. The photos at left above show a retouched (left)
and un-retouched (right) image bearing the Beauty Mark watermark.
This will be applied to stores, marketing materials, websites, apps and
social media. “We will not digitally alter or change a person’s shape,
size, proportion, skin or eye color or enhance or alter lines, wrinkles or
other individual characteristics,” CVS has said. “We want our beauty
aisle to be a place where our customers can always come to feel good,
while representing and celebrating the authenticity and diversity of the
communities we serve.” The CVS Beauty Mark will start to appear on
CVS Pharmacy-produced beauty imagery in 2018, with the goal of
all images in the beauty sections of CVS Pharmacy stores achieving
transparency by the end of 2020. n

10  Markets & Trends   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

GCI1803_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 10 2/19/18 9:07 AM

 Travel Beauty Retail Takes Off

I
ncreased disposable income has boosted tourism and
travel, especially among iGen consumers, driving
growth in the travel retail market, according to a new
report from Allied Market Researchb. The report notes
that the total travel retail market is anticipated to reach
$125.1 billion by 2023, representing a CAGR of 8.9%
between 2017 and 2023.
Airports accounted for the most market revenue in
2016, and, during the forecast period, are expected to
grow at a CAGR of 9%. Companies such as Estée Lauder,
Revlon and L’Oréal have opened outlets at international
airports worldwide, carrying a variety of skin care and
fragrance products.
In 2016, perfumes and cosmetics accounted for more
than 30% of the travel retail market share, and, by 2023,
are anticipated to dominate the global market.
Asia Pacific, which has seen great improvements in
standards of living and a rise in disposable income, is the
world’s largest travel retail market; in 2016, China alone
accounted for about 65% of the market. Europe, home
to some of the world’s largest luxury retailers such as
France’s LVMH, comes in second, accounting for nearly
$21 billion. n

b
“Travel Retail Market by Product and Channel: Global Opportunity Analysis
and Industry Forecast, 2017-2023,” www.alliedmarketresearch.com

According to a new study from Slice Intelligence, Kylie Cosmetics is the

reigning queen of celebrity-fronted “diva” makeup brands—but Rihanna’s
Fenty Beauty is coming for the crown.
The study surveyed 5.5 million online shoppers, focusing on four “diva”
brands: Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, KKW
Beauty (founded by Kim Kardashian West) and Kat Von D. Though they
are purchased by just 12% of overall cosmetics shoppers, these brands
accounted for 29% of category revenue.
Customers who purchased from no diva brand averaged $82.62, while
Kylie Cosmetics customers spent an average of $197.80 per year on
cosmetics. Kylie Cosmetics had the most loyal fans—82.1% exclusively
buying from the brand—while only 35.4% of KKW buyers do the same.
While Kylie Cosmetics claimed the highest sales of any “diva” brand
between November 2016 and October 2017, Fenty revenue bested Kylie
Cosmetics by five times in September (when the brand launched) and
31.7% in October. Additionally, Fenty claimed the highest dollars spent per
buyer, with the average customer spending $437.32 a year on makeup—
five times more than the average online cosmetics shopper.
All “diva” brands over-indexed with non-white consumers. However,
even among this group, Fenty fans are among the most diverse,
significantly over-indexing among African American, Hispanic and Asian
shoppers. n

www.GCImagazine.com Markets & Trends  11

GCI1803_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 11 2/20/18 3:15 PM

 MARKETS & TRENDS
Amazon’s Top 2017 Beauty Products
A
ccording to the “Amazon Consumables 2017
Review” conducted by One Click Retailc,
consumable items represented 79% of Amazon’s
US beauty market last year. While male grooming
traditionally dominated the platform’s beauty category
sales, luxury beauty is now the big driver—a key motivation
behind Amazon’s partnership with Violet Grey.
• US market highlights: The total estimated US
consumable beauty sales on Amazon reached $1.5
billion in 2017, a gain of 41% year-over-year; the top
category was mass skin care, which generated sales of
$305 million.
• UK market highlights: The total estimated UK
consumable beauty sales on Amazon reached £130
million, a gain of 22% year-over-year; the top beauty
category was fragrance, with sales of £30 million.
• German market highlights: Total estimated German
consumable beauty sales on Amazon reached e150
million, a gain of 53% year-over-year; the top beauty
category was fragrance, with sales of e40 million.
The review states, “The oldest millennials are now in their
late 30s and have a new level of career stability and financial
freedom. Their growing disposable income allows them
to eschew mass-market beauty products in favor of luxury
c
http://oneclickretail.com/insights/
12  Markets & Trends   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018
GCI1803_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 12
T
(
beauty, which nearly doubled in size in 2017 and now
accounts for 20% of all beauty consumables.”
Spencer Millerberg, CEO of One Click Retail, said, “Our
research shows beauty customers on Amazon are searching
specifically for product ingredients, especially those with
functional benefits. The most successful manufacturers
have adapted to this, listing the key ingredients in titles and
other key areas to drive discoverability.” n
Top Consumable Luxury Beauty on Amazon.com
(United States)
EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46, 1.7 oz
Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner, Intense Black (Jet Black)
Mario Badescu Drying Lotion, 1 fl. oz.
Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, 8.5 fl. oz.
Revitalash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner, 2 ML (0.067 OZ)
St. Tropez Self Tan Bronzing Mousse, 8 fl. oz.
Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Herbs and Rosewater, 8 oz.
Baxter of California Clay Pomade, 2 fl. oz.
EltaMD Skincare UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40 Tinted, 1.7 oz
Sensibio H2O Micellar Water 16.7 fl oz
w
2/19/18 9:07 AM
 Top Consumable Beauty Sellers on Amazon.com
(United States)
Gillette Fusion Manual Men’s Razor Blade Refills, 12 Count, Mens Razors /
Blades
Men’s Rogaine Hair Loss & Hair Thinning Treatment Minoxidil Foam, Three
Month Supply
Crest 3D White Professional Effects Whitestrips Whitening Strips Kit,
22 Treatments, 20 Professional Effects + 2 1 Hour Express Whitestrips
Crest 3D White Glamorous White Whitestrips Dental Teeth Whitening Strips
Kit, 14 Treatments - Lasts 6 Months & Beyond
Proactiv 3-Step Acne Treatment System (30-day) Starter Size
Men’s Rogaine Hair Loss and Hair Regrowth Treatment, Minoxidil Topical
Solution, Three Month Supply, (Pack of 3)
Neutrogena Cleansing Makeup Remover Facial Wipes, Waterproof Mascara
Remover Refill Pack, 25 Count (Pack of 6)
Viviscal Extra Strength Hair Nutrient Tablets, 60-Tablets
Gillette Mach3 Men’s Razor Blade Refills, 15 Count, Mens Razors / Blades
Pura D’Or Anti-Hair Loss Shampoo (Gold Label), Effective Solution for Hair
Thinning & Breakage, New & Improved Pumps, 16 Fluid Ounce
Top Consumable Beauty Sellers on Amazon.com
(Germany)
M2 Beauté Eyelash Activating Serum, 1er Pack (1 x 5 ml)
Olaplex Hair Perfector No.3, 1er Pack (1 x 100 ml)
Revitalash Advanced Augenwimpern-Conditioner, 2ml
Joop! homme/man, Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur, 1er Pack (1 x 125 ml)
Rosense Rosenwasser 100% natürlich vegan, 1er Pack (1 x 300 ml)
Joop! Jump homme/men, Eau de Toilette, Vaporisateur/Spray, 1er Pack
(1 x 100 ml)
Orphica Realash Wimpernserum, 1er Pack (1 x 3 ml)
Hugo Boss Bottled homme/men, Eau de Toilette, 1er Pack (1 x 100 ml)
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male homme/men, Eau de Toilette, Vaporisateur/
Spray, 125 ml
Aphro Celina Wimpernserum, 3 ml
SA3 Magic Lashes Wimpernserum, 1er Pack (1 x 4 ml)
Chopard Wish femme/woman, Eau de Parfum Spray, 1er Pack (1 x 75 ml)
www.GCImagazine.com Markets & Trends  13
GCI1803_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 13
Top Consumable Beauty Sellers on Amazon.com
(United Kingdom)
Wunderbrow - Perfect Eyebrows in 2 Mins – Brunette
RapidLash Eye Lash Enhancing Serum
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Eau de Toilette for Men - 75 ml
Wunderbrow - Perfect Eyebrows in 2 Mins - Black/Brown
Paco Rabanne Lady Million Eau de Parfum Spray for Women, 50 ml
RapidBrow Eye Brow Enhancing Serum
Olay Regenerist 3 Point Firming Anti-Ageing Cream Moisturiser for Firm Skin
Amazon Beauty Advent Calendar
Bomb Cosmetics Little Box of Love Gift Pack
Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Eau de Toilette for Women - 50 ml
Paul Smith Rose Eau de Parfum for Women - 100 ml
Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Eau de Parfum for Women, 100 ml
Riemann P20 Once a Day Sun Protection Spray with SPF30, 200ml -
Single Pac
Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey Eau de Toilette for Men - 75 ml
Paco Rabanne 1 Million Eau de Toilette for Men - 50 ml
COTY GETS READY WITH ECHO
Coty has teamed up with Amazon to design a new personal
beauty assistant for Echo.
Let’s Get Ready is a new visual skill designed for Echo Show,
Amazon’s first Echo with a screen. The skill was first released in
the United Kingdom in January and provides users with on-demand,
occasion-based look planning for hair, eyes and skin. The assistant
contains more than 2,000 unique combinations of hair, eye and
skin color, as well as event type. Users can receive how-tos and
quick tips based on unique
facial attributes. Products
recommended to users
are from Coty’s portfolio,
including Clairol, Rimmel,
Max Factor, Bourjois and
Sally Hansen. Products
can be added from each
look directly to users’
Alexa shopping list. n
2/19/18 9:07 AM
 MARKETS & TRENDS

Backlash Whiplash
In “Top 10 Reasons Consumers Will Boycott
Your Brandd,” Global Cosmetic Industry reviewed
the latest research, opportunities and pitfalls
for brands navigating the world’s increasingly
divisive politics.
L’Oréal Paris experienced the challenge
first-hand with Amena Khan, its first hijab-
wearing hair campaign spokesperson. Khan’s
appointment received a nearly immediate
backlash when a 2014 series of tweets, deemed
by some as “anti-Israel,” resurfaced. Khan
soon took to Instagram to publicly give her
resignation from the campaign.
The entire process from announcement to
resignation lasted just four days. n

November 2017 issue, Page 9; www.gcimagazine.com/

d

magazine/pastissues/2017 Amena Khan was briefly a spokesmodel for L’Oréal Paris.

Univar developed a range of athleisure beauty concepts for fitness-ready

skin care, makeup, sun care, hair care and toiletries. The Aprés Barre facial
cleansing stick contains Betadet SHR and Amidet N, mild surfactants
that reduce irritation, boost foam and thicken formulations; CosKao, a
Cosmos-approved 95% pure kaolin clay for sensitive skin that can create
a more uniform skin completion; and DowSil 2501 Cosmetic Wax, a
copolymer of glycol and silicone that is water-soluble to reduce tackiness,
moisturize the skin and enhance foam.
The Matchpoint eternal glow luminizer comprises the film-forming Epitex
66 Polymer, which offers water- and rub-off resistance; Aculyn 28 Polymer,
which is effective at pH 5.5–10 and imparts a watery and memory shape
texture with a quick break and fresh effect; and Aculyn 33A Polymer, which
suspends glitters without thickening the product.
Other concept products included Citrus Cloud, a cream deodorant,
Color Run Ready lip balm, Competition Swim cream wash, Cool it Down
body mist, Deep Dive purifying toner, Game Face H2O foundation, Ice
Bath cryotherapy gel, Mud Day hair wax, Post Workout facial fuel, and Sun
Salutation in SPF 30 and SPF 50.

Estée Lauder has teamed up with Expedia.com to offer

customers the chance to win a trip to one of the eight
locations that served as inspiration for Estée Lauder’s
North America Spring 2018 Gift-With-Purchase Collection.
Locations include Morocco, Bali, Santorini and Capri. To
enter, customers must make a qualifying purchase from the
brand, which includes an exclusive printed cosmetics bag,
as well as a curated selection of the best-selling products,
at no additional cost. Additionally, they must take a selfie of
their best makeup look for a dream trip destination, uploaded
to Instagram with the hashtags #esteeexpediacontest and
the unique hashtag for their destination of choice (such as
#flymetomorocco). Contestants can also enter via email.

14  Markets & Trends   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 14 2/19/18 9:07 AM

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  , N :

Essential Oils
Whether for aromatherapy, skin care, or fragrances, the quality of essential oils can vary
greatly. Scarcity of the botanical, country of origin and quality standards of the distiller
all impact the final product’s quality. Spectrum carries more than 100 essential oils and
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that each product meets the highest standards in your industry.

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:WLJ[Y\T*OLTPJHSJVT

Untitled-2 1 2/12/18 2:00 PM

 @GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

16    
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GCI1803_Matthews_fcx.indd 16 2/19/18 9:10 AM

 Customization:
the New Beauty
Paradigm
Various levels of individualized products and experiences
are reshaping the industry.

| BY IMOGEN MATTHEWS, consultant to in-cosmetics Global

C
ustomization: it’s the
beauty buzzword of 2018
and appeals to consumers
who are tired of the “one
size fits all” paradigm
that has dominated the cosmetics and
toiletries industry for so many years.
Customization as a concept originated
among high-end brands that could
offer their customers a bespoke service,
but is rapidly being adapted in a variety
of ways within the mass market.
“Customization is evolving in the
category to reflect this,” says Andrew
McDougall, global beauty analyst,
Mintel. He argues that consumers are
showing their frustration that they
are not being properly represented or
cannot find product for their specific
skin or hair care needs. “The engaged
beauty consumer doesn’t want to be

Serving the Individual

It may seem obvious that consumers
are individuals, but for too long beauty
brands put global concerns above
the specific needs of their customers.
Commercially, it makes sense to
develop products that appeal to as wide
a customer base as possible, but in
doing so, the danger is that the brand
becomes featureless and less appealing
to the consumer. “In a market full of marketing smoke and mirrors,
Beauty brands are waking up to the green washing and big promises, we felt that
consumers, while become more knowledgeable
realization that consumers are looking
about ingredients, were actually becoming more
for a connection with the products detached from their beauty products,” says Jo
they use. Chidley, founder of Beauty Kitchen.

www.GCImagazine.com Customization: the New Beauty Paradigm   17

GCI1803_Matthews_fcx.indd 17 2/19/18 9:10 AM

 CUSTOMIZATION: THE NEW BEAUTY PARADIGM
labeled or follow the concept of ‘one
size fits all,’ so brands must reflect
the diversity of their customers. They
must be welcoming and caring for
people of all shapes, ages, colors,
genders and lifestyles.”
Customization in Action
The number of brands offering
customization options through
personality tests and skin and hair
analysis is increasing, with digital
platforms offering the biggest
opportunities.
In hair care, the Function of
Beauty website features a hair quiz to
determine the right combination of
shampoo and conditioner based on the
consumer’s hair type, hair structure and
scalp moisture, as well as their specific
hair goals, such as curl definition,
thermal protection and oil control.
Similarly, Cloud 10 Customized Hair
Care’s website matches shampoo and
conditioner formulations to customers’
distinct hair profile, as well as their
lather and scent preferences.
The surprise success story of 2017
was Fenty Beauty, the large appeal of
which was based on its “shades for all”
Mintel, Two by Two Brand Consultants and Beauty Kitchen will present at
the Marketing Trends presentations at in-cosmetics Global, April 17–19, 2018.
For more information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/MarketingTrends.
18    
Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w
GCI1803_Matthews_fcx.indd 18
31%
of Chinese consumers
aged 20–49 say that
the word “individuality”
defines luxury*
Source: Global Beauty Trends 2018; www.mintel.com/beauty-trends/
concept, offering women everywhere
a wide range of formulas for hard-
to-match skin tones. Music, fashion
and beauty icon Rhianna launched
this makeup line in cooperation with
Kendo after detecting a void in the
industry for products that performed
for all skin types and tones.
Fenty Beauty’s 40 foundation shades
are among the largest on the market,
with each matched to a picture of
a different model on the brand’s
website. Competitors, including Kylie
40%
of US makeup consumers
aged 25–34 are frustrated
by products that don’t
match their skin tone
Cosmetics, have taken notice and also
expanded their shade ranges.
Demystifying Beauty
Customized products account for a
small percentage of natural UK beauty
brand Beauty Kitchen’s business
because they are so resource-intensive.
“We foresee customized products
and experiences growing rapidly
to about 15% of total sales over the
coming years as we launch some
innovative ingredients and consumer
experiences,” says founder Jo Chidley.
“This percentage doesn’t sound [like]
much, but we have grown 300%
annually for the last two years, and
growth will remain in triple digits for
the next three years.”
Beauty Kitchen offers customization
through its Invent Your Own product
workshops at the brand’s flagship
Glasgow store, where consumers are
taught about ingredients and how
to make their own Raw Inventions.
Beauty Kitchen also sells Raw
Inventions kits to enable consumers
to experiment and make their own
concoctions at home.
In larger UK Holland & Barrett
stores, meanwhile, Beauty Kitchen
customers can invent their own body
scrub product.
“We decided to pursue customization
as part of the Beauty Kitchen offering
as it’s a massive trend and one that is a
potential differentiator for us,” explains
2/20/18 3:19 PM
 Chidley. “The more important reason
was to try and simplify and demystify
the complex world of beauty products
and their ingredients to consumers.
In a market full of marketing smoke
and mirrors, green washing and big
promises, we felt that consumers,
while become more knowledgeable
about ingredients, were actually
becoming more detached from their
beauty products.”

Personalization: Beyond
Customization
Louise Barfield, head of marketing
for Two by Two brand design
consultants, says that personalization is
more than online product curation or
a monogrammed box: “It’s a marketing
discipline that’s underpinned by data,
driven by science—but fundamentally
Tom Ford’s UK beauty store offers customers a one-on-one environment by combining sensorial services lies in building a relationship between
with interactive mirror AI technology. brand and consumer.”

www.GCImagazine.com Customization: the New Beauty Paradigm   19

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 CUSTOMIZATION: THE NEW BEAUTY PARADIGM

PERSONALIZATION & CUSTOMIZATION IN ACTION

The diversity of personalized and customized concepts has expanded in the last year, spanning product,
marketing and digital innovations. Recent examples include:

Skin Care
• Shiseido developed a skin care system,
Optune, which connects skin measurement
data downloaded to a smart phone (iPhone)
with current environmental data like weather.
This data is sent to a special machine,
which generates a personalized serum and
moisturizer combination that suits the user’s
present skin condition.
• Kiehl’s Apothecary Preparations feature
personalized formulations to address
consumers’ unique skin concerns. Available
at all Kiehl’s retail locations, the process
begins with a consultation and diagnosis Shiseido’s Optune combines a skin assessment app and customized skin care.
using the brand’s Skin Atlas to assess and
rank the severity of skin concerns. These
results determine the two essential targeted complexes that will Hair
accompany Kiehl’s Strengthening Concentrate. • Prose, Function of Beauty and other online hair consultation
brands offer consumers a quick diagnostic quiz to generate a
Makeup personalized hair care regimen.
• Like MatchCo’s color matching AI, Adorn’s Color Matching Services • Henkel Beauty Care recently unveiled its Schwarzkopf Professional
offer consumers assistance in finding the perfect shades for their SalonLab system, which combines infrared hair diagnostics,
skin tone via an uploaded video and expert assessment for the ideal augmented reality color consultations and on-demand hair product
foundation, blush, lipstick and eye shadow. generation within a unified ecosystem. n

Barfield says that luxury brands
understand this superior level of
service and deliver a sense of a bespoke
experience, for example by creating
dwell time in-store. Tom Ford’s UK
beauty store, for instance, offers
customers a one-on-one environment
by combining sensorial services with
interactive mirror AI technology.
Mass Customization
It is the mass market that provides
the most abundant opportunities for
accessible customized beauty concepts,
driven by digital technology and data.
“The mass market is constantly
evolving, so for engaged beauty
consumers (or heavy users) there
will be an extra demand on tailored
solutions,” says McDougall. “This
customization will not be as bespoke
or detailed [as the luxury sector], but
still provides the consumer with an
element of this.”
Customization’s Future
Customized products may never
account for more than a small
percentage of total beauty turnover, but
for some brands this portion will be
more significant than for others.
How far larger brands are prepared
to go in providing a customized
experience remains to be seen. Chidley
believes for most it will take the
form of a personalized service and
packaging, rather than customized
formulations.
McDougall advises brands to regard
customization as something that is
consumer-led and gives people a hand
in the process.
“It should be continuous as
consumers seek products that can be
modified over time,” he says.
Ultimately, customization will be
about brands being more responsive
to consumer needs, particularly as
their beauty needs change as they age.
It could be a significant marketing
opportunity for those brands prepared
to be flexible to customer demand. n
IMOGEN MATTHEWS
is a consultant to in-cosmetics.
For more information, contact
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk.

20    
Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_Matthews_fcx.indd 20 2/19/18 9:10 AM

 LEARN | EXPLORE | NETWORK | CREATE

Amsterdam • RAI • 17-19 April 2018

The leading global event for

personal care ingredients

Source ingredients from up to 800 suppliers

Touch and try the latest innovations
Meet exhibitors from 40+ countries
Learn about future personal care trends
Establish profitable business networks

Get your free badge

in-cosmetics.com/global

Organised by:

#incosGlobal

Untitled-3 1 1/19/18 10:46 AM

 2018 WORLD
PERFUMERY
CONGRESS:
The Future of
Fragrance
The latest ingredient and formulation innovations, brand
leaders and marketers, perfumers, key suppliers and more
come together for the world’s foremost fragrance event.

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

22 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

GCI1803_WPC_Preview_fcx.indd 22 2/20/18 3:30 PM

 2018 World Perfumery Congress
June 5–7, 2018
Palais des Congrès Nice Acropolis, Nice, France
Register at: www.WorldPerfumeryCongress.com

T
he South of France— World-class Education
birthplace of modern Keynote and conference
perfumery—will play presentations (see sidebar) will
host to the 2018 World offer insights from brand leaders,
Perfumery Congress ingredient experts and chemists,
(WPC), a multi-day market data analysts and more, in
conference and addition to a special awards ceremony
expo exploring the on the closing day. And a new series of
future of fragrance. Presented by the lunch hour talks, Petit WPC, will tackle
American Society of Perfumers and key issues facing the industry.
produced by Perfumer & Flavorist
Magazine, this year’s event will offer
extensive networking and educational Interactive Expo
opportunities, as well as an interactive This year’s Expo will offer
Expo Hall featuring the latest inspiration and resources for
innovations shaping 21st century perfumers, chemists, marketers
perfumery. and product developers, including

www.GCImagazine.com 2018 World Perfumery Congress: The Future of Fragrance 23

GCI1803_WPC_Preview_fcx.indd 23 2/20/18 3:30 PM

 2018 WORLD PERFUMERY CONGRESS: THE FUTURE OF FRAGRANCE

THE FUTURE OF FRAGRANCE & GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES

Mature fragrance markets are responding
to a shift in consumer priorities by gearing
strategies toward creating meaning and value,
and sacrificing short-term gains for long-term
loyalty, according to Euromonitor’s Hannah
Symons, who will speak during the World
Perfumery Congress. Mass brands still have
a place, but need to tap into a new era of
aspiration centered on lifestyle.

Niche Perfumery
Fragrance writer Eddie Bulliqi will discuss
“The Future of Niche Perfumery,” including how
consumer behaviors and trends have changed
over the past 20 years and how they will
impact the future of the fragrance industry.

Restoring Perfume’s Past and

Future Models
In this talk, Luca Turin, Ph.D., Stavros Niarchos
Researcher, BSRC Alexander Fleming, and
Saskia Wilson-Brown, executive director of The
Institute for Art and Olfaction, will discuss some
of the challenges inherent in the recreation of
historic perfumes, particularly, Jacque Fath’s
Iris Gris from 1947, as well as the importance
of heritage in perfumery and the impact historic
scents can have on the industry as a whole.
Celebrating the Purpose of the
Perfumery Industry and the Magic
of Perfumes with a Purpose
In recent years many CEOs’ companies em-
barked on a journey to redefine the purpose of
their business and the purpose of their brands.
This broad movement in today’s business
should make everyone reflect on the purpose
of the fragrance industry, argues speaker
Berangere Magarinos-Ruchat, VP, global head
of sustainability, Firmenich.
Developing Non-Alcoholic
Fragrances
This presentation from Reimar Bruening,
PhD, owner of California Cosmetic Creations,
introduces hydrocarbon solvents from renew-
able botanical sources as alternative tools for
the creation of innovative fragrance materials
and perfumes. Plant-based hydrocarbons such
as coconut, palm or rapeseed alkanes have
recently become available on the cosmetic
ingredient market.
New Power and Transparency in an
Open Age
Social media has irreversibly changed the
way people desire, discover and understand
perfumes. Speakers Christophe Laudamiel,
master perfumer at DreamAir NYC, and Josiah
Ryan, senior producer, social media, CNN, will
share their unique initiatives telling the public
the story of how fine fragrances are actually
created to enhance the general appreciation
around perfume making.
Perfume and Policy
Fragrance has the power to enhance lives,
bringing moments of delight and joy to the
world. As the industry creates, innovates and
grows, it is critical that policies the indus-
try advances—legislative, regulatory, and
finished goods and retailer programs—foster
its ability to continue enhancing lives. A range
of experts will address the state of regulation,
including, Deb Fiddelke, senior director, global
government relations, SC Johnson, Farah
Ahmed, president and CEO, IFRANA—The
Fragrance Association, and Martina Bianchini,
president, the International Fragrance
Association (IFRA).
Rethinking Intellectual Fragrance
Property
For centuries perfume creators and manu-
facturers relied upon trade secrets to protect
their proprietary formulas—the creation of
which typically required years of skilled and
creative experimentation and considerable
financial outlay. Currently in the United States
and European Union, fragrances have been
recognized as figurative trademarks denoting
specific goods. Today, such secrets are difficult
to maintain. Speakers Charles Cronin, a lawyer
at the University of Southern California, and
Claire Guillemin, Ph.D., a lawyer at Bucerius
Law School, will discuss current challenges
and opportunities. n

24    
Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

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 MASTER PERFUMER WORKSHOPS
WPC Master Perfumer Workshops will feature a selection of
the greatest scent creators in the world discussing their art in an
intimate educational setting.
Carlos Benaim, master perfumer, and John Brahms, global ST&I
director, fine fragrances, both of IFF, will discuss “Sillage in Fine
Fragrance,” a review of the creative and technical drivers of
sillage, and its application to the perfume development process.
Zerlina Dubois, master perfumer, Proctor & Gamble, and Robert
Bedoukian, Ph.D., president of Bedoukian Research, will discuss
“The Past, Present, & Future of Signature Perfume Ingredients.”
The speakers argue that new synthetic ingredients have defined
many of the iconic fragrance launches of our time. From Charlie,
to Cool Water to the popularity of Bath & Body Works, the suc-
cessful use of signature ingredients can create a unique effect
that separates your fragrance from the pack and leaves consumers
wanting more. n

ingredients, packaging and sampling,

equipment and manufacturing
resources, and logistics services.
The 2018 WPC has also added
select Marketing Trails that showcase
the newest fragrance ingredients
and trend-driven innovation from
around the world, including new
ingredients that have never before
been shown publicly, natural
materials, sustainability and biotech
breakthroughs, on-trend wellness
ingredients and concepts, and more.
In addition, a range of global artists
have contributed fragrance-inspired
artwork for a unique Expo showcase
marrying creativity, science and beauty.

Networking
The 2018 WPC will include trade
group meetings, private corporate
events, a Welcome Cocktail Reception,
Expo Hall Happy Hours, and Closing
Gala Reception and After Party.
We look forward to seeing you at the
2018 WPC in Nice, where fragrance
heritage, art, marketing and cutting-
edge innovation meet. n

www.GCImagazine.com 2018 World Perfumery Congress : The Future of Fragrance   25

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 The Holy Grail of
Textured Hair Care
Consumers with curls, coils and waves are still looking for their perfect products,
creating vast opportunities for hair care brands.

| BY MICHELLE BREYER, NaturallyCurly

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

26 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

GCI1803_Breyer_fcx.indd 26 2/19/18 9:12 AM

 T
TEXTURED HAIR CARE: BY THE NUMBERS
he frustration of having
curly hair is that you
never really figure it
out. But, if you’re in the
business of curly hair
care, the beauty of curly hair is the
same: you never really figure it out.
Over the past six months, Teresa
$31.6
billion
Christensen of Osceola, Wisconsin,
says she’s bought more than 20 new
products, ranging in price from $3 hair care spend
to $20. She’s always looking at new of US women
reviews online and checking out what with textured hair
her favorite influencers are trying.
Recent purchases include products
from Cantu, SheaMoisture, LA Looks,
DevaCurl and Herbal Essences. On
any given day, she says she uses a
shampoo, conditioner, mousse/foam,
curl activator and a gel. She might
add a little hair spray if she’s going
out at night.
“Right now, I have 40 total products
60% of the global population has curls, coils or waves
in my cabinets,” says the curly-headed
Christensen, who keeps duplicates of of US textured hair consumers say that product
72% reviews are an important factor in driving purchase
her Holy Grail products at both her
home and her lake house.
of US women with textured hair use four or more
Dayne Neufeld, a 3b curly, spends 60% hair care products each month
between $50 and $125 each month on
hair care staples and new products
she wants to try: “I probably have well
over 100 products in my cabinet, I’m
embarrassed to say.”
consumers are still trying to find a Holy Forty-two percent of those with curly
A Massive Hair Care Spend Grail product, and 43% of women who hair purchased hair care products
have found their Holy Grail products seven or more times over the past six
By now, the industry is well-aware
continue to purchase other products in months, spending an average of $348
that women with curls, coils and
the hopes of finding the next best thing. per year.
waves purchase more products than
Forty percent of those surveyed Out of all product types, the textured-
their naturally straight-haired peers.
purchased products seven or more hair consumer spends the most on
What’s surprising is that, according
times over the past six months, conditioners and styling products.
to NaturallyCurly’s TextureTrends
compared to 26% of women with Over a six-month period, she spends on
reporta, 30% percent of textured-haired
naturally straight or relaxed hair. average $48 on conditioners, compared
Those with curls, coils and waves to $31 for those with naturally straight
a
The TextureTrends Survey (www.texturemedia.
spend on average 63% more on hair or relaxed hair, and $43 on styling
com), which focuses on findings by texture
for consumers of all ethnicities, is produced care products than their naturally products, compared to $29 for those
annually and provides immediate access to key straight-haired counterparts—$306 vs. with naturally straight or relaxed hair.
demographics, top hair care concerns, shopping $188. That’s an annual spend of $31.6
habits and purchase behaviors of the textured- billion among all US women with Opportunities for Brands
hair consumer. With roughly 3,500 respondents
textured hair. The TextureTrends data explains why
committing to the 40-minute survey, and four
years of trending data, the study is one of the Women with curly hair spend more consumers with textured hair make up
most comprehensive in the industry. than those with coily or wavy hair. the majority of hair care purchases,

www.GCImagazine.com The Holy Grail of Textured Hair Care 27

GCI1803_Breyer_fcx.indd 27 2/19/18 9:12 AM

 THE HOLY GRAIL OF TEXTURED HAIR CARE

why the number of products being

developed for these consumers has
GROWTH OPPORTUNITY: HAIR CARE skyrocketed and why more retail space
WITH BENEFITS is being dedicated to this category.
The textured hair category has been
one of the fastest growing and most
dynamic in the beauty industry. Since
NaturallyCurly’s inception 19 years ago,
the number of products on the market
has grown exponentially. Two decades
ago, few products existed for textured
hair, even though more than 60% of the
population has wavy, curly or coily hair.

One buyer for

a major mass
retailer says
she looked at
Trends shaping the textured hair care sector closely parallel those driving the general more than 800
market. According to Euromonitora, top consumer hair care concerns include:
new product
• Hair loss prevention SKUs over the
• Dandruff
• Scalp health past year for
• Hydration/moisturization the textured-
• Damage repair
hair consumer.
By creating hair care products that target these concerns, the category can mimic the
premiumization seen in the skin care sector, Euromonitor notes. This presents an oppor-
tunity for the conditioner category, which is the second largest segment behind shampoo
and forecast to be the fastest-growing portion of hair care through 2021. Dozens of new brands designed
While the premium hair care market accounted for only 12% of 2016 retail sales, specifically for curly hair launch each
year, and every major hair care brand
Euromonitor has forecast continued strong growth in the segment through 2021, with
now offers products for textured hair—
gains totaling about $1.6 billion. from mass to professional brands.
One buyer for a major mass retailer
a
“Global Hair Care Overview Part I: Rooting Hair in the Numbers,” October 2017; proprietary Euromonitor says she looked at more than 800 new
report; www.euromonitor.com
product SKUs over the past year for the
textured-hair consumer. It’s no wonder
Unilever recently purchased Sundial
Brands, a market leader in the textured
$72 billion 2016 global hair care market (retail value)* hair category.

$89 billion 2021 global hair care market (retail value; projected) What’s Trending in
Textured Hair Care
*Proprietary Euromonitor data; www.euromonitor.com
The 2017 Texture Trends findings
revealed several key trends shaping
the category.

28    
Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

GCI1803_Breyer_fcx.indd 28 2/19/18 9:12 AM

 Dryness & frizz
Dryness (54%) and frizz (43%)
continue to be the top hair concerns
among those with textured hair. One in
four of these consumers don’t feel that
these concerns are being addressed by
products currently on the market.
Oils are still hot
Fifty-seven percent of textured
hair consumers have used an oil in
the past six months. This is mainly
driven by those with coils, which
makes sense because dryness is their
number one concern.
Natural is not a trend
Among those who have relaxed
their hair in the past, only 3% stated
they transitioned to go along with the
trend. Forty-seven percent say they
transitioned to their natural texture
to embrace the texture they were
born with.
Ingredients matter
Those with textured hair are more
likely to avoid certain ingredients than
those with straight/relaxed hair (82%
vs. 62%). However, the avoidance of
many ingredients has steadily declined
since 2014, mainly driven by those
with wavy hair. n
MICHELLE BREYER (michelle@​
texturem­ediainc.​com) is the co-founder
of content and ecommerce platform
Naturall­yCurly.​com and TextureMedia
(https:/­/corp.​naturall­ycurly.​com). By
engaging beauty enthusiasts through
original content, branded entertai­nment, social media,
product reviews and commerce, TextureMedia influences up
to $5 billion in hair care sales each year. Its monthly social,
consumer reach is 26 million across a portfolio of digital
brands, including its Market Research & Insights division,
CurlyNikki and Naturall­yCurly.

Top purchase drivers SUBSCRIBE TO OUR DAILY NEWSLETTER

Easy application, appropriate price for the latest news and launches.
and accessibility are the three most
important purchase drivers across all www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter
texture types.

www.GCImagazine.com The Holy Grail of Textured Hair Care   29

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 Beauty and personal care brands already know that sampling works; it’s time for suppliers to take advantage of the same dynamics.

How Starter Formulas Accelerate

Beauty Innovation
Suppliers must increasingly feature their materials and technologies
in starter formulas to support clients’ rapid innovation and, ultimately,
gain ingredient market share.

| BY CHERIE BUZIAK, BeautyEdge, LLC

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. 
30     Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

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 T
oday’s cosmetic development
is running at warp speed.
Labs and marketing teams
are bombarded with
multiple messages, not only about
technology and new ingredients, but
also about lifestyle trends, cross-
industry technologies, global media
and consumer buying habits. As a
result, ingredient suppliers are finding
that the window of time to capture the
attention of their target audience is
shrinking, even as competition grows.
There is a solution to this industry
hyperactivity: prototype formulas.
The Power of Starter Formulas
Prototype formulas, often called
“starter formulas,” feature ingredients
or technologies and can help product
developers reach clearer and quicker
concept and technology decisions
that benefit them and their supplier
partners. These formulas highlight
www.GCImagazine.com How Starter Formulas Accelerate Beauty Innovation   31
GCI1803_Buziak_fcx.indd 31
the materials’ features in real-time,
giving marketing and R&D teams
an immediate sense of the formula
experience, performance, and visual
and textural identification. It also allows
customers to walk away with a starting
point from which to move the concept
into the product development stage.
In addition, suppliers can reinforce
their pitches and samples with reference
literature that allows the client to
dive more deeply into the benefits of
suppliers’ materials on their own time.
The Path to Purchase
Here’s a scenario: A shopper in a store
will examine an item of interest. They
may ask questions about the product,
but subconsciously become more
engaged with the item if they sample it/
try it out. This engagement moves the
shopper to the next step of exploration
or purchase. The same process occurs
between suppliers and their clients.
According to HubSpot Researcha, a
third of buyers want the opportunity
to see a product in action very early
on. The data showed that, while 58%
of buyers surveyed wanted to discuss
pricing in a first sales call, nearly as
many (54%) wanted to see a product in
a demo. This shows that buyers want
a very tangible understanding of what
they’re potentially buying, and they
want it right away.
Beauty and personal care brands
already know that sampling works.
Euromonitor research has confirmedb
that brands statistically sell more
product through sampling. The
a
Mimi An, “Buyers Speak Out: How Sales Needs
To Evolve,” February 26,2016; https://research.
hubspot.com/reports/buyers-speak-out-how-
sales-needs-to-evolve
b
Nicole Tyrimou, “Sampling in Beauty: How
Sampling Became Profitable,” April 21, 2015;
http://blog.euromonitor.com/2015/04/sampling-
in-beauty-how-sampling-became-profitable.html
(Continued on Page 34)
2/19/18 9:15 AM
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Untitled-4 3 2/14/18 12:04 PM
 HOW STARTER FORMULAS ACCELERATE BEAUTY INNOVATION

(Continued from Page 31)

firm’s data showed that free samples

influenced about 40% of fragrance
purchases, more than 30% of color
cosmetics and skin care sales, and
more than 25% of hair care buys. It’s
time for suppliers to take advantage of
the same dynamics.

Changing the Conversation

When clients stop by supplier
exhibits, suppliers often ask “what are
you working on?” or “are you looking
for something specific?” There are
several reasons the target audience
often doesn’t have an answer:
1. Confidentiality.
2. The product concept hasn’t been
fleshed out yet, so the target client is
still looking for inspiration.
3. The target client is still in
the information gathering stage.
Technologies and ingredients are
sometimes amassed in an in-house
library and reviewed with the internal
teams so that there is a quick source
for reference when the appropriate
concept comes to light. Starter formulas featuring ingredients or technologies can help product developers reach clearer
and quicker concept and technology decisions that benefit them and their supplier partners
If a potential client stops by a
booth, the supplier should be aware
In fact, the HubSpot Research data a formula. Feature one or two
that they’ve likely stopped by for a
cited earlier found: technologies in an aesthetically
reason. The supplier should allow
pleasing starter formula, and
them the space to explore, versus • 84% of buyers now kick off their include fragrance or a masking
trying to close a sale on the spot by buying process with a referral agent and color to enhance the
asking closed-ended questions. The • 90% of buying decisions are made formula’s aesthetic appeal.
focus should remain on developing with peer recommendations • Engage internal sales and technical
the relationship further, preferably by • 92% of buyers trust referrals from teams on sampling processes so
offering demo formulas. people they know that everyone is on the same page.
• Create a follow-up plan with
What Clients Do With Starter How to Build a Starter Formula potential clients that received
Formulas Sampling Program your sample.
Sample formulas are often shared • Have fun with creative marketing
Once your company is ready to move
amongst clients’ internal teams. ideas on what sets your technology
forward with sampling starter formulas,
Marketing and product developers apart from the other competitors. n
they must create a plan of action. It
share textures with R&D teams, and does not have to be complicated, if
R&D teams share their discoveries with suppliers follow these steps:
the product development groups. CHERIE BUZIAK is the owner of
Having a sample in hand can support • Create a simple checklist of step-by- product development firm BeautyEdge
step developmental procedures for LLC (www.beautyedgeinc.com). She can
the exchange of information and create
be reached at cherie@beautyedgeinc.com.
a more positive experience with the your sampling campaign.
supplier simply because the referral • Test the process. Each technology
came from a trusted source. does not need to be sampled in

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Untitled-1 1 1/18/18 2:38 PM
 ELEMENTS
OF BEAUTY
Inspiring ingredients and innovative claims drive new product innovation.

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. 
36    Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w

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 B
eauty innovation is
“fast-paced, exciting
and vibrant,”
says Rouah Al-
Wakeel, a technical
consultant and
cosmetic chemist
who will lead two
R&D tours—“Biotechnology Actives”
and “The Future of Anti-Aging”—at
in-cosmetics Globala. “There is so
much potential in terms of the type
of ingredients being created … which
means there are many new products
on the horizon for consumers.”
She adds, however, that new
innovation creates industry challenges
for “education and sharing.” Al-Wakeel
explains that “in-cosmetics Global is
a melting pot of experts, ideas and
materials” that helps address the
challenge, taking “experts out of the
comfort of their labs and offices and
into this melting pot.”
She concludes, “Exciting
developments such as smart phones
have revolutionized our lives and only
exist because experts from different
disciplines shared and applied their
discoveries.”
in-cosmetics Global 2018 will
provide a platform for the latest
ingredient launches, research and
claims, demo formulations and
product concepts, trends and more,
offering a view of the innovation that
will shape beauty and personal care
launches in the coming years. Here,
we offer a preview of new research and
ingredients, as well as insights into the
underlying technical, consumer and
market trends that will most impact
product development and marketing.
April 17–19, 2018, at the RAI Amsterdam,
a Pollution on Skin and Proper Efficacy Testing
Europaplein 2, 1078 GZ Amsterdam,
Netherlands; www.in-cosmetics.com/global/
www.GCImagazine.com
GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 37
Defensive Beauty
All things protection are a leading
area of innovation and market demand.
For example, sun protection will
remain the largest ingredient category
for the beauty industry through 2021,
according to a July 2017 analysis from
Euromonitorb. The ingredient segment
has benefitted from the expansion of
UV protection from sun care products
to general market categories such as
skin care and multifunctional makeup.
The Euromonitor report also points
to new growth areas for protective Beauty innovation is “fast-paced, exciting and vibrant,”
ingredients, including anti-pollution, says Rouah Al-Wakeel, a technical consultant and
infrared and blue light defense. cosmetic chemist who will lead two R&D tours at
in-cosmetics Global. “There is so much potential in
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory terms of the type of ingredients being created …
botanical ingredients will benefit from which means there are many new products on the
these emerging concerns, creating horizon for consumers.”
volume CAGR of 7% through 2021.
But how will these emerging claims exposed to pollution factors, changes
be verified? in a number of skin properties can be
A recent paper from a group based observed, such as lipid composition,
in Swedenc noted, “When skin cells are lipid and protein oxidation, pH,
sebum secretion rate, oxidative
stress, inflammation markers, and
collagen and elastin levels. These can
be measured and used as markers to
verify anti-pollution claims.”
The authors reviewed a number of
La Roche-Posay’s recent in vitro and in vivo tests that can be
introductions include the Lipikar
Balm AP+ Intense Repair Mois- used to verify anti-pollution efficacy
of ingredients and formulations. They
turizing Cream, which contains
the brand’s prebiotic thermal concluded that, “In vivo and in vitro
water and patented Aqua Posae
assays have various advantages but also
Filiformis (Vitreoscilla filiformis),
a bacteria grown in La Roche- limitations, so combining these two
Posay’s thermal spring water. approaches is the best option to provide
reliable and trustworthy results.”
Frederic Nunzi of Idea Tests Groupe
will discuss the establishment of anti-
b
John Madden, “What is the New Ingredients
pollution and other claims during
Data Telling Us?” July 20, 2017; https://blog.
euromonitor.com
c
Jadwiga Rembiesa, Tautgirdas Ruzgas, Johan
Engblom and Anna Holefors, “The Impact of Looking for an exhibitor?
Visit www.in-cosmetics.com/exhibitor-
for Anti-Pollution Claims,” January 2, 2018; directory-2017/
www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics
Elements of Beauty 37
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY
The impacts of fine particulates found in pollution are an increasing area of focus for new product development.
in-cosmetics Global, as well as the
implications for brands working to
meet consumer expectations.
Anti-pollution Goes
Mainstream
Pollution can expose the skin to
particulates containing heavy metals,
which can catalyze oxidation reactions
that adversely affect the skin. While
consumers want to respond to this
threat, they also want natural-touting
formulations.
Anti-pollution innovation has
already appeared in markets around
the world. Recent introductions
include Flower Beauty’s Seal the Deal
Hydrating Setting Spray, Yes To Cotton
Anti-Pollution Oxygenated Foaming
Cleanser and Urban Decay Cosmetics’
All Nighter Pollution Protection
Environmental Defense Makeup
Setting Spray.
Suppliers continue to roll out
ingredients and ingredient blends to
address the issue. Indena’s Vitachelox,
for example, comprises a selection of
skin protection botanical compounds—
including Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed
Extract, Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract
and Quercus robur (Oak) Wood/
Bark Extract—that act as free radical
scavengers and chelating agents on
various mechanisms triggered by
common polluting agents. Indena has
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GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 38
reportedly assessed the efficacy of the
ingredients in combination and in
isolation. The supplier is investigating
the compounds’ efficacy on blue
light exposure related to the sun and
technological devices.
Hallstar’s Oléos has introduced
Blue Oleoactif, which also spans
applications in blue light and anti-
pollution defense. Developed via eco
extraction of germ from brown rice, the
ingredient offers antioxidant, photo-
protective and anti-inflammatory
activity thanks to its tocopherol,
gamma-oryzanol, phytosterol, and
phytic and ellagic acid content. The
material’s soybean oil content—and
a proprietary co-extractant—offers
hydration, membrane fluidity and
supports a functional epidermis barrier.
But how can suppliers and
brands validate their anti-pollution
Recent anti-pollution product
introductions include Flower
Beauty’s Seal the Deal Hydrating
Setting Spray, Yes To Cotton
Anti-Pollution Oxygenated
Foaming Cleanser and Urban
Decay Cosmetics’ All Nighter
Pollution Protection Envi-
ronmental Defense Makeup
Setting Spray.
claims? Véronique Newton, R&D
and laboratory manager at CIDP,
will present a talk at in-cosmetics
Global focusing on the application
of a pollution exposure system to
substantiate anti-pollution claims
regarding the generation of reactive
oxygen species (ROS) and the
resulting oxidation of lipids and
proteins.
Blue Light Breakthroughs
Maria Coronado Robles, senior
ingredients analyst at Euromonitor
International, will speak at in-
cosmetics Global about the
connections among well-being,
pollution and beauty productsd.
Robles has noted, “With increasing
urban population, alarming pollution
levels and growing number of skin
conditions, an incipient awareness
about holistic health and well-being
is germinating.” Therefore, she
concludes, consumers are seeking
out products that evoke nature while
contributing to their bodies’ defenses.
As Euromonitor’s 2017 analysis
showed, environmental pollution
isn’t only in the air outside, it’s in our
homes, and even our hands—in the
form of blue light-emitting screens.
d
For the full educational schedule, visit www.
in-cosmetics.com/education2018/
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 One example of the natural defense Infrared Defense
trend in action is Bluemidin from As pollution and blue light defense
Clariant, which is extracted from have gained traction, so too have
Lespedeza capitata, a plant harvested infrared protection claims. Products
in South-Korea. The ingredient like Ahava’s Beauty Before Age Uplift
reportedly counters the effects of blue Day Cream and Origins’ A Perfect
light exposure by neutralizing oxidative World Antioxidant Moisturizer with
and nitrosative stress, reducing the White Tea offer defense against
appearance of puffiness and dark environmental aggressors such as
circles, and boosting skin radiance. infrared radiation.
Giada Maramaldi of Indena is Near-infrared radiation, or IR-A,
scheduled to deliver a presentation at has the ability to penetrate deep into
in-cosmetics Global that will discuss the dermis, which can generate free
a natural blend of polyphenolics radicals that cause harmful biological
that have been validated by in vitro effects that result in skin aging and
testing to defend against oxidative wrinkles. Suppliers have responded
damage caused by airborne pollutants with a range of ingredients, many
and blue light emitted by the sun of which were shown at the 2017 in-
and electronic devices. The blend cosmetics event.
reportedly also protects against skin This year, more infrared defense
microbiota imbalances, which can innovations will be presented, including
Environmental pollution isn’t only in the air outside,
in turn prevent hyperproliferation of TiO2-IR300-ASG3 (INCI: Titanium it’s in our homes, and even our hands—in the form
Propionibacterium acnes. Dioxide (And) Stearoyl Glutamic Acid) of blue light-emitting screens.
Rahn has also introduced a trio of
cosmetic actives designed to defend
the skin against blue light. Celligent
(INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil (and) Ethyl Ferulate (and)
Polyglyceryl-5 Trioleate (and)
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary)
Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
(and) Disodium Uridine Phosphate
(and) Tocopherol) can be utilized for
UV/HEV (high-energy visible light)
protection for DNA, cells and stem
cells, and rapid regeneration of UV-
damaged skin.
Rahn’s Myramaze (INCI: Propanediol
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Myrothamnus
Flabellifolia Extract (and) Ascorbic
Acid (and) Citric Acid) is recommended
as a cell membrane safety guard and
blue light protector for stressed and
fragile skin, while Proteolea (INCI:
Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and)
Levan (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Olea
Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and)
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Zizyphus
Jujuba Extract (and) Citric Acid (and)
Ascorbic Acid) can reportedly be used
as a cellular recycling manager that
offers blue light protection and delivers
a six-year skin rejuvenation effect in
four weeks.

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 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY
from Kobo Products, Inc. The large-
size, acicular titanium dioxide has
a strong capacity to block IR-A light
without harming formula aesthetics,
according to the company. The patent-
pending material has been tested in
vivo and in vitro.
Epigenetic Skin Care
Epigenics focuses not on the
modification of genetic codes,
but rather the changes caused in
organisms via the modification of gene
expression. The field has opened a
significant new innovation pipeline for
the beauty industry.
In one recent example, Givaudan
Active Beauty’s marine biotechnology
R&D team revealed new benefits
for its Megassane ingredient (INCI:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract):
it improves skin tone by activating
natural proteasomes that clear away
extraneous or damaged proteins.
The ingredient’s lipid composition
is derived from Phaeodactylum
tricornutum, a red micro algae, and
is able to stimulate skin proteasomes
in a damage-preventive and curative
way under high UV exposure.
This regulation acts at both the
epigenetic level—regulating a specific
miRNA—and genetic level—acting
“I think consumers are now more aware and interested in the science behind the aging process,” explains
Rouah Al-Wakeel, a technical consultant and cosmetic chemist.
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Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w
GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 40
on proteasome regulators. The result
is that the enzymatic activities of the
proteasome are restored, stimulating
cell and skin detox to reverse the
appearance of dull skin.
Megassane was clinically tested
in volunteers who smoke and have
dull, greyish skin. After 56 days
of treatment, the volunteers’ skin
tone improved by 200%, revealing a
more vibrant color and complexion,
according to Givaudan Active Beauty.
In effect, the ingredient acted as
a natural highlighter, decreasing
dullness for a natural and healthy
appearance.
The Microbiome & the
Future of Well-aging
“I think consumers are now more
aware and interested in the science
behind the aging process,” explains
Al-Wakeel. “They appreciate that
the microbiome is having an effect
and are contemplating the changes
occurring at the surface of the skin,
so rather than wanting a quick-fix to
make them look younger, they are now
looking for something to actually slow
down the process whilst having long-
term anti-aging benefits—in addition
to instant results.”
She adds, “Our knowledge of the
efficacy of natural ingredients has
increased, and this is having a big
impact on anti-aging. Natural actives
such as those found in the salicylate
family, which have potencies similar
to retinol, are now available to
formulators. Also, a huge range of
exciting anti-aging peptides have
been developed.”
Increased knowledge about the
human microbiome is also having
an impact on the beauty industry’s
approach to anti-aging, or well-aging.
“The microbial communities that live
in harmony with us on our bodies can
now be described and watched through
techniques such as next generation
DNA-sequencing,” says Al-Wakeel.
“These techniques are bringing us a
new understanding of the effects of
imbalances in skin’s microbiota and
how these microbial communities
interplay with actives and products.
This is expected to have a huge impact
on formulations generally, but … we
expect to see the microbiome playing a
big role in maintaining youthful skin.”
Well-aging Beyond the
Microbiome
Lipotrue will be presenting new
marine-derived anti-aging ingredients
at in-cosmetics Global. The materials
are based on a marine microorganism
found 2,700 m beneath the ocean near
Greenland, according to a presentation
summary by Silvia Pastor, Lipotrue’s
business development manager.
Recently, Chemyunion introduced
Ecoffea, an organic green coffee
seed cake glycerinated extract
(Coffea arabica) with antioxidant
mitochondrial protection properties
that support anti-aging activity,
particularly in mature skin. Ecoffea’s
reported protection of mitochondrial
function, which declines with
age, and promotion of corneocyte
regeneration can counteract the signs
of chronological aging or photoaging,
offering as much as a 13-year
rejuvenation and improved skin surface
in 15 days, says Chemyunion. The
ingredient can be applied in creams,
gels or serums.
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 Microbiome Technology on
the Market
La Roche-Posay has introduced
a range of products that address
sensitive skin concerns by offering
prebiotic support for the microbiome.
The brand’s research has implications
for eczema, a condition that afflicts
32 million Americans and can cause
psychological and social lack of
well-being.
La Roche-Posay’s recent
introductions include the Lipikar
Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturizing
Cream, which contains the brand’s
prebiotic thermal water and patented
Aqua Posae Filiformis (Vitreoscilla
filiformis), a bacteria grown in La
Roche-Posay’s thermal spring water.
The key ingredients reportedly
reduce dry, rough skin and help “We need safe products and healthy skin, so maybe new techniques such as next generation sequencing—
rebalance the skin microbiome which showed us the microbiome—should now become part of the way we ensure products are safe,”
says Rouah Al-Wakeel, a technical consultant and cosmetic chemist who will lead two R&D tours at
to soothe the skin and boost its
in-cosmetics Global.
defenses against pathogenic agents
that cause irritation.
Many suppliers have also stepped According insights provided by assessments including the challenge
up their microbiome research. For proDERMe, the Shannon diversity test, which requires all formulas to
instance, Silab will present a talk at in- index can effectively be used to quickly kill any added microbes,” she
cosmetics regarding recent discoveries characterize a microbiome’s species explains. “When these formulas are
in the area of cosmetic applications of diversity by accounting for factors such applied to skin they very probably
skin microbiota. as evenness and abundance of present disrupt the healthy skin microbiota.”
species. The company argues that the Al-Wakeel adds, “We need safe
Validating Microbiome higher the diversity on the index, the products and healthy skin, so
Claims healthier the skin flora. maybe new techniques such as next
However, as claims such as anti- proDERM’s research could generation sequencing—which
pollution show, it is critical to potentially validate claims that focus showed us the microbiome—should
better understand the microbiome on maintaining the natural skin flora or now become part of the way we
and to create clear claim support. correcting an imbalanced microbiome. ensure products are safe.”
Stephan Bielfeldt of the proDERM The company has investigated Ensuring safety efficacy and
Institute will be addressing key microbiome testing methods in consumer perception are critical in
questions for formulators, brand relation to deodorant use, as well as the age of social media and increased
leaders, marketers and product with patients with dermatitis, acne and ingredient scrutiny. The recent
developers at in-cosmetics, including psoriasis. The results are forthcoming. launch of the SkinNinja app in the
the classification of the unique United Kingdom is emblematic of
microbiome of each body site, The Microbiome and Safety the challenge. The digital tool, which
defining what constitutes a healthy Every technical breakthrough promises to help consumers “Discover
microbiome on each of those gives rise to new considerations for which ingredients are hiding in your
particular sites, and what claims can formulators and brands, says Al-Wakeel. skin care products,” allows consumers
be made with existing technology “Consumer safety is of the utmost to enter the names of their skin care
and formulations. This talk will importance; all new ingredients products into the app, which generates
cover microbiology analysis, the undergo thorough safety checks and a list of that product’s ingredients from
classification of the skin biome and a database that color codes materials
16S rRNA gene sequencing, as well e
www.proderm.de/en/study-types/cosmetic- on a scale of green (“clear”) to orange
as the handling of quantitative data. efficacy/skin-care/ (“suspected”) to red (“nasty”).

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 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY
“Clean” lifestyles emphasize a less-is-more attitude that extends to beauty and personal care.
The system’s creators therefore have
immense power to unilaterally flag
products and ingredients as “nasty,”
to offer insights on how materials can
supposedly impact human health and,
critically, which ingredient and product
alternatives consumers should consider
purchasing.
The beauty industry will have to be
nimble to stay one step ahead of these
self-appointed experts—without stifling
innovation.
Clean Beauty: Is Less More?
The increased scrutiny and
consumer uncertainty around beauty
products has created the phenomenon
often dubbed “clean beauty.” The term
is vague, but its influence, whatever its
validity, is everywhere in the headlines:
“What is ‘clean beauty’? Here’s what
you need to know,” “How to switch to
natural deodorant and other ways to
detox your beauty routine,” “Target
Just Launched A New Line Of Paraben-
Free Fragrances.”
Brands and suppliers alike have
responded quickly. For example,
WeylChem’s consumer care unit
has introduced a range of WeylCare
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Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018 w
GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 42
PB ingredients for paraben-free
personal care applications. WeylCare
HexaPB (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol),
WeylCare OctaPB (INCI: Caprylyl
Glycol) and WeylCare PhenylPB
(INCI: Phenylpropanol) are non-ionic
preservative boosters, which show
synergistic effects and conventional
preservative systems. They also serve as
mild moisturizing and emollient agents.
Biotechnology is redefining what nature can do—sustainably.
The range can be used for face or
body care such as creams, lotions or
peeling products, conditioners and
shampoos, sun creams and lotions,
makeup and eye cream, and deodorants.
Ajinomoto has introduced its
amino acid blend, Prodew 600, a
paraben-free moisturizer for skin
and hair that is formulated with
hygroscopic natural moisturizing
factor (NMF) components. The result,
according to the supplier, is strong
moisture absorption and retention.
According to Ajinomoto, Prodew
600 can improve the skin barrier
function, resulting in the diminished
appearance of fine wrinkles.
In recent years, suppliers have
worked to create formulation
alternatives to conventional
preservatives that have come
under scrutiny. For example,
Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH has
developed a natural multifunctional
active ingredient, Dermosoft
Decalact. The ingredient possesses
antimicrobial properties against the
microorganisms that cause disorders
such as dandruff and athlete’s foot.
Therefore, it can be applied as a
natural and mild replacement for
triclosan and climbazole.
Clean beauty has also led to a focus
on functional and quality issues, such
as the impact of some silicones on
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 hair and skin. To that end, Cosphatec
has launched Cosphaderm Feel
(INCI: Triheptanoin), a Cosmos-
certified silicone replacement with
reportedly high spreadability and
skin compatibility. The material
functions as a solvent for UV filters
and pigments in sun care products
and color cosmetics. It can also be
used as an emollient in W/O and O/W
emulsions to develop a light and mild
skin product.
The liquid is easy-to-apply, according
to the company, and can be used pH-
independently in a concentration of
5% to 10%. The ingredient is sourced
from castor oil and is palm oil free. It
is also 100% naturally derived from a
triglyceride of heptanoic acid.
The New Natural:
Sustainable Biotechnology
The beauty industry has always
leveraged the power of nature, but
new technologies are enhancing
brands’ ability to deliver new
functionality without sacrificing safety
or sustainability.
“Biotechnology offers the
opportunity to develop new products
and make materials that would
otherwise come from undesirable or
unsustainable sources,” says Al-Wakeel.
“All this is achieved without giving up
the ambition of having a greener earth
and better economy.”
Al-Wakeel continues, “We have been
able to use biotechnology as a tool
for discovery and for developing new
materials and for manufacturing—
including ingredients which can help to
delay the aging process. For example,
fermentation [entails] enzymes bio-
transforming fruits, plants and herbs
using yeast to help generate new,
naturally derived and more sustainable
ingredients. Essentially, this is the
foundation of synthetic biology, which
is the future of our industry.”
From stem cells to algae extracts to
peptides, biotechnology has delivered
extensive new innovation to beauty.
Biotech ingredients, says Al-Wakeel,
“allow us to create more intelligent
www.GCImagazine.com Elements of Beauty   43
GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 43
formulations with enhanced efficacies
and an increased awareness of
sustainable, ecologically friendly
approaches to personal care.”
She adds, “Formulators are asked
to meet a list of requirements,
specifications and functions for new
product development, or for improving
existing products on the market. By
using biotechnology, the industry now
has a plethora of actives available,
We need safe products and healthy
skin, so maybe new techniques
such as next generation
sequencing—which showed us
the microbiome—should now
become part of the way we
ensure products are safe.
—Rouah Al-Wakeel
which cover the broad range of
required efficacies. There have never
been so many options available to the
formulator; we are spoilt for choice.
This enables us to be creative in terms
of the finished products we produce
and the brand concepts we create.”
Recent examples of biotech at
work include Mibelle’s Biochemistry’s
PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, which
is a liposomal preparation of stem
cells derived from the rare Swiss
apple known as Uttwiler Spätlauber.
The PhytoCellTec plant cell culture
technology allows the company
to produce sustainable large-scale
quantities of the Malus Domestica stem
cells. These cells are reportedly rich
in epigenetic factors and metabolites,
which boost the longevity of skin cells
and, therefore, slow the visible effects
of aging. The apple stem cells also
delay the senescence of hair follicles,
according to Mibelle Biochemistry.
In another approach, Active Micro
Technologies has derived antimicrobial
peptides from Leuconostoc kimchii
lactic acid bacteria—famous for its
role in producing kimchi fermented
cabbage—which can promote
antimicrobial protection by preventing
unwanted growth while exhibiting
milder activity on the skin. A recent
study by the company found that 4%
of an antimicrobial peptide applied
to nasal folds increased the beneficial
bacteria on the participants’ skin area
while also decreasing the presence of
Gram-positive Propionibacterium sp.
The ingredient could have a notable
impact on preserving healthy levels of
histone deacetylases (HDAC) on the
skin, a marker of microflora balance;
HDAC3, in particular, is critical for
healthy skin because it modulates the
epigenome and nearby gene expression.
Any reduction in HDAC can render
commensal bacteria less effective,
thereby compromising the immune
system and, ultimately, skin health.
Solvay’s Succinoglycan polymeric
rheology modifier is derived from
the fermentation of agrobacterium
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY
Omya is introducing its Omyacare range of calcium
carbonate in a range of particle sizes.
tumefaciens and reportedly offers
shear-thinning rheology and wide pH
tolerance. The material can act as a
stabilizer of oil-in-water formulations
and has synergistic thickening activity
when combined with acidic actives.
Succinoglycan is compatible with
electrolytes and works well with other
thickeners to suspend particles like
zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in oil-
in-water systems. Critically, according
to Solvay, succinoglycan does not leave
a sticky feel on the skin and, instead,
imparts a soft, velvety after-feel to oil-
in-water formulations.
Looking ahead to future innovation,
Croda International Plc, has acquired
Nautilus Biosciences Canada Inc., a
marine—or, “blue”—biotechnology
company based in Charlottetown,
Prince Edward Island, Canada.
Nautilus focuses on using marine
microbial biodiversity to discover
novel actives and materials,
particularly for skin care and hair
care, as well as crop care. Croda
will establish Nautilus as a Croda
Centre of Innovation for Marine
Biotechnology at Nautilus’ existing
base at the University of Prince
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New natural products are solving challenges in beauty, including the need for low heavy metal content in
algotherapy treatments.
Edward Island, where it will have
exclusive global access to the Marine
Microbial Library.
Natural Benefits
Beyond novel fermentation
techniques, natural products continue
to deliver unique benefits. Lessonia’s
Algsecured algae paste, for example,
allows formulators to manage the
concentration of heavy metals,
especially arsenic, in algotherapy
treatments. Algsecured was reportedly
formulated to overcome the common
challenge of heavy metal absorption
and iodine reactions while delivering
essential minerals across the
cutaneous barrier. The material, which
is appropriate for body wraps in
thalassotherapy and spas, is compliant
with regulations in Europe, Korea,
China and more.
Meanwhile, Natural Sourcing,
LLC’s chokeberry seed oil (INCI:
Aronia Melanocarpa (Chokeberry)
Seed Oil), sourced in Poland, offers
brands a six-month shelf life in
skin care, hair care, nail care, lip
care, makeup and aromatherapy.
The fast-absorbing, polyphenol-
rich polyunsaturated oil can soften,
soothe and protect sensitive, parched,
dry, itchy, mature and problem
skin, according to the company, and
restore scalp vitality in normal, dry
and damaged hair.
Natural Sourcing has also
introduced a line of natural exfoliants
to replace conventional microbeads.
The materials, including nut and
seed meals, offer nutritive natural
oil content, as well as moderate
to aggressive levels of exfoliation
for facial and sensitive skin
products, hand and body scrubs,
polishes, soaps and other skin care
formulations. The exfoliants include
salts and sugars, fruit seeds and
fibers, jojoba wax beads, nut and seed
meals, bamboo powder, rice husk
powder and pumice powder.
IBR Ltd. has introduced new data
for its IBR-Dormin (INCI: Narcissus
Tazetta Bulb Extract), which has the
ability to inhibit hair regrowth, density
and thickness, while increasing skin
softness. The ingredient is ideal for
body and face care for women and
men, particularly before and after
depilatory products, shaving products,
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 deodorants, and products for excessive
body and facial hair.
Ex vivo testing showed that using
0.02% IBR-Dormin reduced hair shaft
elongation by 34% and transitioned
the hair follicle from a growth to a
resting phase. In vivo, the delay of
hair growth after waxing was achieved
with 0.2% IBR-Dormin cream, while
3% of IBR-Dormin gel cream led to
a delay in men’s facial hair regrowth
after shaving.
Roquette has developed two plant-
based emulsifying and thickening
systems that offer texture and feel
benefits. The emulsifying system is
a ready-to-use and all-in-one O/W
emulsifier that offers “unique” sensory
effects and can be used at room
temperature. The thickening system
comprises natural polysaccharides,
is ready-to-use, cold-processable,
resistant to electrolytes and stable
over a wide pH range, according to
the company.
Meanwhile, Omya is introducing
its Omyacare range of calcium
carbonate in a range of particle
sizes. Omyascrub is designed for
scrubbing applications, Omyaskin
is ideal for decorative cosmetics and
Omyadent is optimal for functional
particles in toothpaste applications.
The Omyacare range is produced in
a low-energy manufacturing system,
which reportedly keeps its carbon
footprint low.
Omyacare particles can be applied
at levels as high as 10% in sustainable
soap bars, providing weight and
a natural mechanical cleaning
functionality. The brightness of
the Omyacare materials can allow
formulators to eliminate titanium
dioxide from formulations, according
to the supplier.
Omyaskin minerals can be applied to
makeup products to boost luminosity
and color opacity, while also boosting
texture and spreadability. Potential
applications include lipsticks and
foundations.
Omyascrub can be applied as
a replacement for conventional
microbeads, according to the supplier.
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The materials have low microbiological
activity, ensuring hygiene and
enhanced shelf life. The levels of
Omyascrub applied to products can
alter the consistency of products and
the cleansing effect level, which can
vary from exfoliation to skin renewal
to rejuvenation.
Sustainable Improvements:
from Sourcing to Products
A range of companies are
contributing to the increased
sustainability of formulations and
products. At in-cosmetics Global,
Paul Wanrooij, business development
manager of Emerald Kalama Chemical,
will discuss the improvement of
benzoate preservative efficacy through
the use of chelators, glycols and
preservative synergies, including in
challenging products such as skin
lotions with pH 5.5–6.5 and wet wipes
at pH 6.0. These strategies can allow
even challenging systems to achieve
Cosmos-, Ecolabel- and Nordic Swan-
compliant products.
Meanwhile Durant Scholz, president
and chief visionary officer of Active
Concepts, will offer a presentation
highlighting the use of efficacious
anhydrous actives and formulas to
create innovative and sustainable anti-
aging personal care, while reducing the
amount of water consumed.
Suppliers and brands are building sustainable technology and practices into their processes from the ground up.
Taking a larger view, Clariant’s
Aleksandra Zmiric will outline the
implications of sustainability for the
bath and shower category—beauty’s
most water-intensive segment. Zmiric
will discuss the need for new thinking
on packaging—refillable bottles and
small formats), formulations (solid
and pasty, with low water content)
and products (non-rinse and quick-
rinse formats).
To that end, Schill+Seilacher GmbH
will discuss its Rheo2Green Series,
which reportedly generates consumer-
preferred viscosity, skin feel and foam.
The concentrates are Cosmos- and
Natrue-compliant and conform to Eco-
Label and Nordic Swan standards. The
cold-processed materials are free of
sulfates, solvents and fragrances.
Further down the supply chain,
IOI Oleo has developed a sustainable
quality of MCT (INCI: Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride) that is 100% coconut-
based. An alternative to palm-based
equivalents in segments such as hair
conditioning agents, preservative
boosters, emulsifiers and emollients,
the Witarix MCT range includes
Witarix MCT 60/40, Witarix MCT
Organic, which is certified 82.3%
organic, and Witarix MCT pure
organic, which is certified organic
100% (All INCIs: Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride).
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY

company has launched a trio of anti-

New ingredients are addressing the impacts of stress, UV, pollution and other aggressors.
Meanwhile, Solvay has expanded
its Sustainable Guar Initiative by
partnering with Henkel to double the
number of Indian farmers involved in
the project to 6,500 by the year 2020.
Solvay started this project in 2015 with
TechnoServe, a non-profit organization
that teaches sustainable agricultural
practices to 3,000 guar bean farmers
across 20 villages in the desert region
of Bikaner, Rajasthan.
More Effective and
Individualized Beauty
“Due to next-generation sequencing,
we can see what is happening on the
surface of the skin in real time,” says
Al-Wakeel, referring to 16s rRNA
sequencing. This culture-free method
provides a full analysis of microbial
communities and allows researchers
to combine multiple samples in a
single sequencing run. The result is
a cost-effective tool for accurately
identifying the components of a
complex microbiome.
“We can now see more readily the
effects of environmental factors and
how different ingredients and products
behave on the skin and with different
skin types,” Al-Wakeel continues. “If
we want to go even further, we can
determine this on the skin of different
individuals, which can lead to a more
bespoke type of skin care. In addition
to this, we can use biotechnology to
enhance the performance of active
ingredients, thus increasing the efficacy
of the finished product.”
Anti-aging and Anti-stress
for the Skin and Hair
When BASF surveyed 100 volunteers,
90% reported stress as having a
negative effect on skin, causing it to
turn dull and dry. In response, the
Men are gravitating toward active treatments for the hair.
aging and anti-stress active ingredients
that reportedly offer consumers a more
youthful appearance.
BASF’s Hyalurosmooth (INCI:
not available) helps counteract the
harmful effects of daily stress by
helping the skin recover its hydration
and radiance. It represses the cortisol
damaging impact on skin, restoring
the collagen type I and hyaluronic acid
that are affected.
BASF’s RNAge (INCI: not available)
helps reshape the face by rebalancing
the microRNA, the over expression
of which decreases the production of
proteins that are significant in building
the dermal structural design. The active
therefore helps the dermis to stay L
h
dense, rebuilding it from deep within
and firming facial shape.
DN-Age (INCI: not available) is an
anti-aging active ingredient for hair,
slowing down the graying process and
reducing hair loss. The active acts on
the scalp and prevents UV-induced
DNA damage, while also protecting hair
follicle cells. According to BASF, 80%
of panelists said their hair was stronger,
fuller and thicker with this ingredient.
Mibelle Biochemistry, meanwhile,
has launched KeraGuard (INCI:
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract

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 Lubrizol’s two-component Fixate Keratin thermal hair treatment reportedly results in “perfectly smooth,
healthy and young looking hair for more than 10 shampoo wash cycles,” according to the company.
(and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Sprout Extract (and) Propylene Glycol
(and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium
Benzoate (and) Water (aqua)) to help
protect and repair hair in leave-on and
rinse-off formulations. KeraGuard was
designed to counter harmful effects
of environmental stress like UV and
pollution, and chemical stress like
coloring and straightening, while also
repairing hair to make it healthy and
radiant. Its tara tannins are potent
antioxidants and radical scavengers
that naturally bind to the protein
structure of the hair. Ex vivo studies
reportedly showed that, at 0.5%, the
active protected dyed hair from color
fading, in addition to reducing heat
damage on hair cuticle scales.
Clariant’s Genadvance conditioners
address naturally dry, dull and
extremely damaged hair types. The
company had created an array of demo
products addressing each specific
hair concern using formulation
technology that reportedly overcomes
conventional quaternary ammonium
compound limitations. Each is
designed to revitalize, repair and
moisturize the hair.
Male Hair Care Focus
Male grooming, always the looming
opportunity for the beauty industry, is
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GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 47
experiencing new market opportunities
as men begin to adopt hair care that
extends beyond hygiene to more active
treatment, particularly because men
produce higher levels of sebum on the
scalp compared to women.
Chemyunion recently developed
H-VIT Plus, an active ingredient
that, according to the company’s
clinical trials, protects skin barrier
integrity, reduces inflammation
caused by the environment, controls
oil in the hair and scalp, and reduces
sebum production between 40% and
60% in applications such as tonics,
styling products, and shampoos and
conditioners. Chemyunion reports that
95% of its test participants indicated
they would purchase a product that
could potentially reduce hair oiliness.
Gentle Topical Acne
Treatments
During in-cosmetics Global, Yongji
Chung of Caregen Co., Ltd., will
discuss the development of a water-
soluble hepta-peptide-conjugated
isotretinoin. The resulting material
lacks the cytotoxicity of isotrentinoin
which, because it is oil-soluble, is
primarily used as an oral treatment
for severe acne. The hepta-peptide-
conjugated isotretinoin, on the
other hand, can offer strong down
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY
According to a report from Grand View Research, the halal cosmetics industry will be worth $52 billion by 2025.
regulation of pro-inflammatory
cytokines, IFN-g, IL-1b, IL-6, IL17A
and TNF-a compared to isotretinoin,
and potentially be applied in topical
acne products.
Stay Put
Rick Giles of AkzoNobel Surface
Chemistry will discuss the creation of
long-lasting products in the makeup,
hair styling and skin care sectors
at in-cosmetics Global. Meanwhile,
Lubrizol’s Malte Ruffing will discuss
the development of hair care offering
long-lasting style, manageability and
care. Lubrizol’s two-component Fixate
Keratin thermal hair treatment was
developed without formaldehyde and
glyoxylic acid chemistry and is inspired
by skin care encapsulation technology
that reportedly results in “perfectly
smooth, healthy and young looking
hair for more than 10 shampoo wash
cycles,” according to the company.
Halal Beauty
According to a report from Grand
View Researchf, the halal cosmetics
industry will be worth $52 billion
by 2025, led by Muslim consumers
willing to pay a premium price for
f
www.grandviewresearch.com
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cosmetics that keep with their ethical
beliefs, as well as 12.3% CAGR in hair
care alone.
According to data cited by DSMg,
the Asia-Pacific region, home to the
world’s largest Muslim population,
accounted for 72% of halal beauty
products introduced between January
2014 and October 2016. The company
noted that halal products are also
making inroads with non-Muslim
g
www.dsm.com
C’est Moi’s Gentle Skin Care Collection for Spring 2018 features ingredients such as organic aloe,
calendula, extracts of strawberry, cucumber, kiwi and apple, green tea, and chamomile water,
organic sweet almond oil and shea butter.
consumers eager for all-natural,
health-conscious products.
It’s no wonder, then, that more than
half of DSM’s personal care portfolio
is now certified as halal. This includes
skin care actives, UV filters and
vitamins. The approval was granted
by the Halal Food Council of Europe
(HFCE) after audits were conducted at
DSM’s production sites in Vouvry and
Aesch, both in Switzerland. HFCE is
recognized by organizations such as
the Islamic Food and Nutrition Council
of America, the Indonesian Council of
Ulama and the Department of Islamic
Development Malaysia, among others.
Green Biologics, Inc., has also
announced its achievement of
kosher and halal certifications for
its bio-based BioPure n-butanol and
acetone, which enables the company’s
chemicals to serve as ingredients for
halal personal care. The products are
produced using renewable feedstock.
BioPure can be combined with acids
derived from plant-based oils to
produce a range of renewable butyl
esters, which can be utilized in nail
polish remover as an acetone, as well
as in applications such as natural
lipsticks, moisturizers and as aroma
chemicals in fragrance products.
These materials have also received
100% bio-based, USDA BioPreferred
certification.
2/19/18 11:17 AM
 Venator Materials’ titanium dioxide pigments provide a finish in foundations and help give concealers and
correcting creams consistent coverage capabilities, according to the company.
New Innovation for
Sensitive Skin
Skin sensitivity is an increasing
area of focus for ingredient suppliers,
formulators and m arketers. Recently,
C’est Moi launched a range of gentle
skin care for tweens and teens. All C’est
Moi products are dermatologist tested,
clinically tested on sensitive skin, made
with natural and organic ingredients,
hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, talc-free
and cruelty-free.
C’est Moi’s Gentle Skin Care
Collection for Spring 2018 features
ingredients such as organic aloe,
calendula, extracts of strawberry,
cucumber, kiwi and apple, green tea,
and chamomile water, organic sweet
almond oil and shea butter.
The products include a Gentle
Foaming Cleansing Gel, Gentle
Makeup Remover Cleansing Wipes,
Gentle Moisture Lotion, Gentle Mineral
Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 and 3 Step
Gentle Skin Care Set.
To support product development for
consumers suffering from conditions
such as allergic contact dermatitis,
researchers are exploring the potential
to test formulated products, not
just individual ingredients, for skin
sensitizing potential. A forthcoming
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GCI1803_in-Cosmetics_fcx.indd 49
talk at in-cosmetics Global from
Sophie Catoire, the toxicology in vitro
manager at Thor Personal Care, will
argue that a 3D co-culture method can
provide a holistic analysis, rather than
simply examining the sensitization
caused by individual components.
According to Catoire’s abstract, “This
modeling enables solubility problems
to be overcome and the cutaneous
bioavailability, absorption and
metabolism of a personal care product
to be taken into consideration.”
A Splash of Color
Venator Materials PLC, a specialist
in titanium dioxide and color
pigments for the cosmetics industry,
will exhibit its pigments and additives
for cosmetic, skin and dental care
formulations. The pigments reportedly
deliver long-lasting and vibrant results
in mascaras, eye shadows, lipsticks,
blushers and more. The titanium
dioxide pigments provide a finish in
foundations and help give concealers
and correcting creams consistent
coverage capabilities, according to the
company. Venator produces titanium
dioxide grades for anti-aging skin care
treatments, natural baby care products
and sunscreen formulations. n
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 SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

The trend of blend-it-

yourself, or BIY, is in demand
Avon has reportedly been tracking how consumers
to help consumers enhance
are using its new Anew Reversalist Infinite Effects
their skin care treatments,
Night Treatment Cream during trials in their homes,
and packaging companies are
by way of smart packaging. The new product
beginning to follow suit. New
combines two different night creams that need to be
packaging formats allow users
rotated every seven days to prevent the user’s skin
to blend various formats on the go, while protecting formulas by
from adapting to the regime.
dispensing precise amounts of product. Two-in-one packs, for
According to the company, Cambridge Design
example, are able to store two different products in one package.
Partnership (CDP) developed the technology that
This allows the two formulas to be dispensed separately or
was incorporated into the dispenser. The results
together—depending on the treatment—through a single nozzle.
gave insight on how users were interacting with the
Jars are also in on this dual concept, with two containers for
product and revealed they were able to follow the
thicker and creamier formulas. Some active ingredients are stored
regimen of rotating the dispenser each week.
as powder until the moment of use due to their short shelf-life.
Packs, such as Yonwoo’s Twin Mix Airless, help keep the dry
powder in an upper compartment. Once ready to activate,
the powder is released into the bottle of serum with a twist of
the bottle’s neck, followed by the press of the pack’s pump.
Quadpack (pictured above) also offers a number of powder/liquid
packs for OTC, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical formulas.

Urban Decay’s All Nighter Pollution

Protection is a setting spray meant
to lengthen makeup wear time, while
shielding against environmental damage,
Laboratoires Ducray selected RPC Bramlage’s AirFree aireless
such as oxidative stress. The spray
solutions for Dexyane, the brand’s new anti-scratching emollient
uses a blend of minerals including zinc,
balm. The AirFree Vega bag-in-bottle and Ecosolution airless pump
magnesium and copper to protect skin,
features a co-extruded bottle and multilayer pouch with EVOH
and helps applied makeup to last longer
barrier protection for the product’s active ingredients. The pump,
by lowering its temperature with a time-
which is made completely of plastic, features a dispenser with
release spray.
just four parts, compared to the standard 10, according to RPC
Bramlage. The components reportedly make it easier for users to
release precise doses, and to reach any and all parts of the body.

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 Shiseido has acquired Olivo Film, the synthetic skin technology,
of Olivo Laboratories, a Massachusetts-based pharmaceutical
company. Terms of the deal have not been disclosed. Olivo Film
is designed to act as a second skin and consists of a tunable
polysiloxane-based material that mimics youthful skin. The film can
be engineered to provide a variety of targeted properties, including
elasticity, breathability, invisibility, water resistance and protection. In
situ cross-linking ensures long-lasting skin adhesion, and generates
a protective barrier to external chemical and mechanical insults that
keeps the skin dry, even upon water contact, according to Olivo
Laboratories. The ability to optimally balance oxygen and moisture
permeability via Olivo Film potentially provides ideal conditions
for skin healing. The technology could be applied to under-eye
treatments and other skin care concerns.

ColorShade SPF 35 by Abella Skin Care ($25) is a tinted

sunscreen and foundation that gives the skin a hint of color
before stepping out into the sun. The SPF is available in four
shades: light, medium, dark and ebony. The product offers
sun protection, color and moisturizatoin during use. The
sunscreen works with all skin types, is water resistant, and
blends well with other products and makeup, according to
Abella. Key ingredients: Vitamin D, vitamin E, green tea.

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 SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

Clariant has produced a clean beauty collection, Essence by

Clariant, which was developed without parabens, formaldehyde
donors, MIT/CMIT, sulfates, betaines, silicones, petrolatum or
mineral oil. The range features a clear shampoo, a hydrating hair
mask, makeup serum, face cream, hand foam, shaving foam
and diaper cream. The product concepts also include:

• Amazonian Exfoliating Cleansing Powder, a natural

exfoliator and cleanser formulated with Amazonian white
clay and organic quartz crystals
• Avocado Ageless Bounce Cream, containing omegas 6 and
9 and phytosterols to protect skin against aging, balance
moisture and improve firmness
• Simple Splendor Cleansing Cream, combining three
sulfate-free surfactants for a nourishing skin cleanser
• Energizing Scalp Tonic specifically developed for the men’s
care segment, helping wash away dead skin cells building
up in hair with bamboo extract and using ginger extract to
relieve dry scalp
• Every Which Way Refreshing Men’s Powder Cleanser, a
pre-shave wash for conditioning coarse, dry beards, or
post-shave wash for a cleanse that leaves skin feeling
smooth and nourished
Kiehl’s has announced its “largest formula
renovation in 166 years” for its Powerful-Strength
Line-Reducing Concentrate. According to Kiehl’s,
the vitamin C-infused formula underwent 89 trials
before finding the next-generation version. The new
formula has a heightened concentration of 12.5%
vitamin C (10.5% pure vitamin C [L-ascorbic acid]
and 2% vitamin Cg [ascorbyl glucoside]). The new
formula is also now made with hyaluronic acid,
has a fast-absorbing, non-oily texture, and a citrus
scent. The new formula retails for $62–$104.

Unilever has acquired a minority stake in Gallinée, which utilizes a patented

combination of pre-, pro- and post-biotics to create personal care items targeting
issues such as acne and eczema for sensitive skin. The brand is carried at department
stores and pharmacies in the United Kingdom and France, such as Harvey Nichols.
The investment wraps up Gallinée’s series A financing; Unilever is the leading investor.
The financing will go toward extending the range, research and development, and
talent at the brand. This includes expanding the company’s global retail operation and
its e-commerce presence, as well as hiring an experienced head of e-commerce.
Said Anna Ohlsson-Baskervill, a director with Unilever Ventures: “We have been
impressed by Gallinée’s level of innovation and consistency. It is rare to find such young
brands with the right mix of science and consumer focus. I look forward to working
with [founder] Marie [Drago] and her team to build upon the company’s momentum
and many growth opportunities”

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 3 Trends for Tomorrow’s Skin Care
| BROOKE SCHLEEHAUF, assistant editor, Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine
S
kin care products are blurring lines between
traditional concepts and innovative, effective new
uses. In an exclusive interview, Janna Ronert,
founder of Image Skincare, shared ingredient and
concept picks that she believes will make the move from
trends to staples in professional skin care formulas.
1. Retinols
Retinol works to improve lines and skin discoloration,
while retinoids promote cell turnover to increase collagen
production. Both, however, are derived from vitamin A.
Ronert says, “What has always been a staple but will
continue to grow is the use of retinol, retinoids and vitamin
A … The ability to formulate these very high potency
ingredients now in a form that isn’t as irritating as they have
been in the past will continue to be a staple in people’s diets.”
2. Vitamin C
Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant protection,
especially important to today’s consumers concerned about
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GCI1803_SkinSunAntiAging_fcx.indd 53
the effects of air pollution. The vitamin also boosts collagen
production and can play a role in epigenetic regulation.
Ronert notes that, “Now [vitamin C can be] oil-soluble,
it can be water-soluble and you can mix vitamin C with a
whole host [of ingredients]. Vitamin C is definitely on the
rise, both in ingestibles and topically.”
3. Multitasking Products
In contrast to trendy K-Beauty rituals, which typically
involve a regimen of several skin care products that work
together, Ronert predicted products that serve more than
one purpose will gain traction.
“You’re going to see less steps and more multitasking of
products, which is great for the consumer because it is less
products, less money and bigger bang for your buck,” says
Ronert. “That’s where I see the vision of skin care going—
where certainly one bottle can’t do it all, but formulators
and professional skin care companies can put a lot into one
bottle today.” n
2/19/18 9:18 AM
 HAIR

Global consultancy Brandimage has redesigned

packaging for the KMS styling and hair care range.
Keeps, an online company dedicated to the prevention of
The redesign was centered around the concept of
adrogenetic alopecia—more commonly known as male pattern
“raw sophistication” to better align with KMS’s casual,
baldness—has launched. Customers visit Keeps.com, where
urban aesthetic. The matte bottles in neutral colors and
they answer questions and upload photos. From there, the
minimalist shapes are designed to evoke the style of
website offers a doctor-provided diagnosis (usually within a few
industrial lofts. KMS’ concept of “Start Style Finish” and
hours), a personalized treatment plan and a 90-day product
its packaging manifestation aim to make the process
supply from the company’s own range of FDA-approved
easier to understand for stylists and clients alike.
treatments. The website’s tracking tools help users monitor their
progress. The brand targets men in their 20s and 30s. While
FDA-approved treatments are shown to regrow up to 20% of
lost hair, they can be up to 90% effective at halting hair loss.

Henkel has announced the opening of a professional hair care

headquarters in Culver City, California, bringing a number of
key brands into one location, including Alterna Haircare, Kenra
Professional, #mydentity, Pravana, Schwarzkopf Professional and Sexy
Hair, as well as Zotos International, the North American professional
hair care business of Shiseido, which includes the brands Joico and
Zotos Professional and which Henkel acquired in January 2018. The
new facility will consist of an open-space work environment, including
an Academy of Hair multi-branded learning center, opening Q2 2018.
The facility will consist of a full-service test salon and color bar, as well
as a digital trend lab, designed to set the stage for photo and video
shoots or live broadcasts of demonstrations or trainings.

L’Oréal Professionnel, in collaboration with Modiface, has launched a three-dimensional hair

color try-on app, Style My Hair. According to L’Oréal’s chief digital officer, Lubomira Rochet,
“Style My Hair 3D is our first initiative to illustrate how L’Oréal is leading the way in the service-
oriented beauty marketplace. These tech collaborations enable our dynamic professional brands
to enhance the expertise quotient in their services, while also providing consumers with a
personalized brand experience and richer engagement.”
Users can virtually try on a new shade of blonde, brunette, copper or purple—just to name a
few—in real time. Modiface’s technology detects the user’s hair strand by strand for a realistic
result. The app does not need to focus on the face, thus the hair is instantly transformed. Style
My Hair gives hairdressers the opportunity to show their clients color results during in-salon
consultations.
After the launch of Style My Hair, the app received criticism for reportedly only showcasing
Caucasian styles on the Asian, black and white models. The app is available for download at
www.us.lorealprofessionnel.com.

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 An Authentic Brand
Founded by hairdresser Laurent Dufourg, Privé
is now owned by Digital Hair Partners LLC and is
rebranding its line with new packaging, new formulas
and a new philanthropy mission called #careforall.
Digital Hair Partners is a group of industry veterans
that brings modern digital support to the salon, while
also reaching out into the digital stream of every
consumer. The team’s goal is to inform consumers when
trends begin, not when they are already marketable.
The formulations are focused on providing protection
and do so with antioxidants such as goji berry, açaí,
bamboo and pomegranate, while building strength
from within using proteins such as quinoa, jojoba and
baobab. “I am thrilled with the direction the new ownership
The company also has a new mantra, “inspired by team is taking,” said Dufourg. “I will continue to be
real life.” involved with unique educational collaborations and
“Although we will be distributed through professional with our Fashion Week initiative. With the incredible
salons and have professional caliber formulas, we digital education that creative director Aaron Johnson
wanted to create a brand that speaks directly to the is heading up, the salon loyalty program, the brand
consumer,” said Jori Zeman, brand manager, Privé. “All crush initiative and the new look and feel, this is a
of our model shots for products and social are of real, brand that I know salons, stylists and consumers will be
young women and are taken in places we all frequent very excited about.”
like art fairs and coffee shops instead of in a photo Privé’s #careforall initiative gives 1% of sales to
studio. That is very intentional. We want this brand to charities helping women in need. The charity of choice
be authentic and approachable and to appeal to people is Project Beauty Share, which is an organization
like our girlfriends and coworkers. We think hair care providing hygiene, cosmetics and beauty products to
should be fun in addition to functional and pretty.” women who may not be able to afford them. n

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GCI1803_Hair_fcx.indd 55 2/19/18 10:50 AM

 HAIR

Pulp Riot’s David Thurston: To listen to the full conversation,

Ready for Next Phase of Growth Visit www.gcimagazine.com/multimedia/

P
ulp Riot was a Beauty Spotlight
finalist in New York and is one of
the brands that will be featured at
the Beauty & Money Summit LA
(https://beautyandmoneysummitla.com),
taking place April 19 at the SLS Hotel.
The event will connect industry executives
from strategic buyers, financial buyers
and independent beauty brands.
David Thurston, founder and CEO
of Pulp Riot, a professional hair color
brand, has seen his company expand into
28 countries since launching about 18
months ago. He says it’s all due to great
products, strong distributor relationships
and social media.
“Social media is our microphone,” Pulp Riot founder and CEO, David Thurston.
says Thurston, which amplifies Pulp Riot’s
marketing efforts. The low-cost platform allows the brand Beauty Group created its own Pulp Riot Instagram
to compete with the largest players in the market by page, which quickly grew to more than 20,000 followers.
accelerating awareness in new markets.
Beating the Big Brands
Selecting Distributors Thurston says that he moves fast and makes
Thurston says that social media has actually created decisions quickly in order to avoid having Pulp Riot’s
demand in markets before the brand becomes available, successes duplicated. He’s also avoided the mistake of
allowing nimble distributors to hit the ground running. trying to compete head to head with the big brands.
Pulp Riot does best when it works with distributors Social media has been a significant force in this
that truly understand social media, says Thurston. These respect, he says, because Pulp Riot is able to connect
aren’t always the largest companies, which can actually with the people who buy its products. Big companies
be advantage. Thurston explains that larger companies have trouble scaling that type of relationship
may not have time to give Pulp Riot the attention it needs authentically, leaving room for the upstarts.
and, at times, may not have much, if any, digital strategy
in place. (A few may not even have their own website.) The Ideal Investor
Some distributors have even mimicked Pulp Riot’s Still, like all brands, Pulp Riot requires money to
social media to build the market. For instance, Russia’s grow. Thurston says that he seeks out only hands-off
investors who understand Pulp Riot’s advantages and
unique properties.

The Next Phase of Growth

Looking ahead, Pulp Riot will be creating new
products to appeal to a much broader market than
its current lineup. The brand will introduce about 96
products in 2018, Thurston says.
The company will also build out distribution
in existing markets, investing significantly in the
European market.
Still, Thurston says that Pulp Riot will “stay lean” as
a company to support its success and flexibility. n

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Untitled-4 1 2/8/18 9:59 AM
 MAKEUP

Kat Von D, the digitally savvy makeup brand, announced

the return of its Studded Kiss Crème Lipstick collection.
The re-launch includes a variety of new shades and a new
formula with higher pigment and color payoff. The collection
includes 40 colors in three finishes: satin-matte, glimmer and
metallic. Shades include previously discontinued fan-favorites,
Perfect365 recently conducted a survey of “hundreds” of
popular hues from the Everlasting Liquid Lipstick line and the
millennials and Gen Z consumers that reportedly showed that
brand new White Out, an opaque white ideal for use as a
63% of makeup consumers said they would not use a tester
base or mixing to create custom shades. A traditional bullet
lipstick in a store out of concern for contamination and germs.
lipstick, the packaging and lettering were designed by the
Unsurprisingly, Perfect365 found that these shoppers most
brand’s eponymous founder, inspired by her favorite black
prefer a digital platform for testing lipsticks. The study comes
studded cuff bracelet. Each shade is vegan and cruelty-free.
following the high-profile 2017 news story about a California
Retailing at $19 each, the collection is currently available on
woman allegedly contracting oral herpes from trying on a
Katvondbeauty.com and Sephora stores.
lipstick at her local Sephora. That connection has not yet been
definitively established, as of press time.

Shiseido has announced the launch of Posme, a new innovation

project that will feature consumer goods co-created by high school
girls and various companies and industries. The brand’s first product
is Play Color Chip, a multi-use color item with usages that include
eyeshadow and blush. Developed with input from more than 150
high school girls, the product will be sold in sets of six single-color
clips. Users peel back the film for finger application, making the clips
easy to “share and swap.” The first release includes eight colors; later
releases will include an additional eight and five, respectively.
A survey conducted by Shiseido found that 93% of high school
girls “perceived the novelty of the items because they can be
swapped with friends, are easy to carry around, are good for a gift
and are perfect to try a new color.”
The project is the first for Shiseido’s Innovation Design Lab, an
internal organization established to create new businesses outside
of the company’s existing systems and frameworks. Products and
services are produced and delivered in a swift, flexible manner.
Play Color Chip is available at designated stores in Tokyo and
Kansai, the Posme website and Posme Lab Sibuya; availability is
slated to expand in March 2018.

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 Brands such as Fenty Beauty are helping to fuel the global
cosmetic pigment market, which is expected to grow from $550.3
million in 2017 to $790.0 million by 2022, with a CAGR of 7.5%. A
report from Research and Markets (www.researchandmarkets.com)
cited growing consumer demand for products that match a wide
range of skin tones and product differentiation as helping to boost
the pigment market. The report also noted:

• Rising demand for cosmetics in emerging economies, including

India, China and Brazil;
• Increased demand for root makeup, such as foundations and
face powders; and
• Heightening US-based cosmetic pigment imports to the Asia
Pacific region.

Additionally, the pearlescent pigment market is forecasted to

grow at a CAGR of 4.58% during the 2018–2022 period, according
to ReportsnReports (www.reportsnreports.com). Consumer trends
favoring the high shine and enhanced effects these pigments offer is
helping the market to gain momentum.

Julep’s Cushion Complexion is marketed as a “5-in-1 skin

perfector” meant to conceal, correct, illuminate, blur and brighten
the face. The product comes in 18 shades with warm, neutral and
cool undertones and a demi-matte finish. Cushion Complexion’s
formula utilizes turmeric extract to brighten the face, while camellia
seed oil nourishes and moisturizes to calm skin.

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 BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE
According to the firm Market Research Futurea, drug and other active ingredient
companies are under pressure to meet the rising demand for ingredients used in
medicated personal care. These include products such as antiperspirants, deodorants,
oral care, hand sanitizers, body powders, feminine care and other segments.
The analysis found that the market is projected to explode with a CAGR of 20.30%
between 2017 and 2027. Drivers include rising consumer incomes and changing
lifestyles, in addition to a growing elderly population in the West, new opportunities
such as halal beauty, men’s grooming and bio-based skin care.
Improved standards of living, aligned with the growing incomes of the working
middle-class in China, India and Malaysia were particularly noted as influential to this
market. Finally, the ongoing rise in technological breakthroughs to cost-effectively
produce these products has driven growth in this segment over the past 10 years,
and is expected to do so moving forward.

a
Global Medicated Personal Care Products Market Research Report—Forecast to 2027;
www.marketresearchfuture.com

Edgewell Personal Care Company has announced plans to acquire

men’s skin care company, Jack Black, LLC. The terms of the transaction,
which is expected to close in Q2 2018, were not disclosed. Jack Black is
currently sold in Nordstrom, Ulta Beauty, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s,
Dillard’s, Sephora and via Amazon Luxury Beauty, as well as on its own
ecommerce site.
Colin Hutchinson, CEO of Edgewell, stated, “… Jack Black is a
breakthrough brand, driving the growth of the luxury men’s category
through product innovation and cultivation of a highly engaged, loyal
and growing customer base. The Jack Black brand is a strong and
complementary addition to Edgewell’s portfolio based on its unique brand
positioning, prestige channel footprint and product assortment. This
acquisition creates opportunities to expand our personal care portfolio in
growing categories in the United States and globally while nurturing the
strong brand equity that the Jack Black founders have developed.”

Natural perfume brand Skylar Body has successfully raised $3 million to

support and expand its existing product portfolio. Since its inception in April
2017, Skylar Body has sold more than 14,000 units of its perfumes, which claim
to be natural, hypoallergenic and cruelty-free. Founder Cat Chen reportedly took
inspiration from her work at The Honest Company and larger consumer trends
toward natural products.
Currently, the brand offers four
fragrances, which include Arrow,
Coral, Isle and Meadow. The
fragrances themselves range from
spicy and warm scents to floral and
clean. Keeping with its natural focus,
the company uses naturally sourced
bergamot from Italy, jasmine from India
and rose from Morocco. Additionally,
the company uses organic sugar cane
alcohol from an Oregon distillery.
“Skylar Body is the result of the
guidance of hundreds of real women,”
said Chen, CEO of Skylar Body.
“Women want a more personal, informative and convenient shopping experience
that’s lacking in the current retail environment, and we’re here to provide that.”
Cat Chen, CEO of Skylar Body

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 Global Fragrance Forecast
According to a recent Fact.MR report (www.factmr.com),
the global fragrance market is expected to reach $70
billion by 2022, increasing at a CAGR of 6.2% during the
forecast period.
Niche and Natural Fragrances
The rise of niche brands and personalized fragrances
is leading the growth in the global fragrance market.
Smaller perfume brands have met this demand by
leveraging perfume blogs and social media platforms.
Simultaneously, the market is experiencing increased
demand in natural perfume due to consumers’
perception of synthetic fragrances. However, as
a result of the higher prices in the category, the
adoption rate is lower than for synthetic fragrances.
• Supermarkets will remain the second largest
distribution channel for the market.
• Specialized cosmetic stores are expected to see the
slowest growth in fragrance sales.
• Europe will remain the most lucrative region,
contributing $20 billion in revenue by 2022.
• Asia Pacific, excluding Japan, will grow at a faster rate
than North America.
• The Middle East, Africa and Japan will exhibit the
lowest CAGRs through 2022. n

2022 Fragrance Projections

• Cosmetics and toiletries are estimated to be the
second largest product type segment, behind soaps
and detergents.
• Fine fragrances and household products will grow
the fastest, with fine fragrances being the larger
revenue generator.
• Hypermarkets will dominate the global market
for fragrance.

Crystal recently introduced its aluminum free range, Crystal Invisible Solid
Deodorant Sticks, which reportedly offer a smooth application, while conditioning
and moisturizing the skin—in addition to providing odor control. The “invisible”
formula results in no white marks, no stickiness, no staining, no flakes and no
crumbling, and offers 24 hours of odor protection. The formulations include
essential oils and extracts and feature scents such as Unscented, Lavender &
White Tea, Vanilla Jasmine and Chamomile & Green Tea.

KKW Fragrance has released its Kimoji Hearts series, inspired by Valentine’s Day. Following the
successful launch of the brand in early November 2017, the fragrances feature a mix of fruity and
oriental scents. The fragrances are packaged in a distinctive heart-shaped bottle.
The Kimoji Hearts line includes:
• Kimoji Hearts BFF. A blend of wild berries and star apple, which contains top notes of pink currant,
wild berries and star apple; heart notes of pink rose petals, jasmine sambac and pear blossom;
and base notes of cedarwood, marshmallow vanilla accord and musk.
• Kimoji Hearts BAE. A fragrance that includes top notes of bergamot, mandarin orpur and kiwi
flower; heart notes of gardenia blossom, coconut water and jasmine sambac; and base notes of
whipped vanilla, white sandalwood and musk.
• Kimoji Hearts Ride or Die. A fragrance with a blend of fruity and smooth scents. Top notes include
mandarin de vert, blackberry and purple plum, while the heart notes include jasmine, raspberry
nectar and gardenia blossom. The fragrance finishes with vanilla crème, caramel and tonka bean.

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 BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

Scentbird Disrupts Fragrance For the full conversation,

Scentbird will be featured at the Beauty & Money Summit Visit www.gcimagazine.com/multimedia/
LAb, taking place April 19 at the SLS Hotel. The event will
connect industry executives with strategic buyers, financial
buyers and independent beauty brands.
Global Cosmetic Industry recently spoke with two of
Scentbird’s founders, Sergei Gusev and Andrei Rebrov, about
what it takes to succeed as an indie brand in 2018, what
investors are looking for and how the digital beauty revolution
has helped the brand find success.
After finding success as a perfume and cologne subscription
service, Scentbird decided it was time to branch out into the
skin care category. The company recently launched a line of
hand creams, body washes and scrubs that subscribers can
add to an existing subscription.
In addition, Scentbird has announced the distribution of
the Glossier You fragrance through its service. Scentbird
provides an alternative to traditional perfume purchasing.
Instead of purchasing a whole bottle, Scentbird allows users
to buy a 30-day supply of a fragrance for $14.95 a month.
The catalog of fragrances includes more than 450 top
fragrance brands.
So, what’s next for this up-and-coming indie brand? n

b
www.beautyandmoneysummitla.com

Inter Parfums announced net sales of $149.5 million for

Target has announced that it will launch its first exclusive
vegan and paraben-free fragrance line, Good Chemistry.
Inspired by different personalities, the line of fragrances
includes Confident & Charming, Cool & Grounded, Vibrant
& Playful and Cool & Collected. Featured scents include
magnolia, jasmine rose, vanilla, apricot and berry. Each of the
fragrances will be made available in perfume, body spray and
rollerball products .
“Beauty at Target is all about the joy of discovering products
that work best for you, and we want to ensure this philosophy
rings true in fragrances,” said Christina Hennington, senior
vice president of beauty and essentials at Target. “That’s why
we are reinvigorating our fragrance collection by introducing
Good Chemistry, an exclusive brand that is all about inspiring
our guests to find unique scents that they love.”
its fourth quarter, up 11% from 2016. For the fiscal year, the
company saw a net sales increase of 13.5%. The company
reported net 2017 sales of $591.3 million, up from $521.1
million in 2016. In Europe, its three largest brands—Montblanc,
Lanvin and Jimmy Choo—reported growth at 4%, 5% and 20%,
respectively, according to chairman and CEO Jean Madar.
Of US operations, Madar stated: “Dunhill had a very strong
fourth quarter thanks in part to the launch of Icon Racing, resulting
in increased fourth quarter and full year brand sales. The slight
decline in sales by US-based operations in total, relates more
to timing of new product launches than with the strength of
our brands. With 2018 product launches for many of our major
brands, including Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Dunhill, Anna Sui
and Oscar de la Renta, we look forward to resuming consolidated
sales growth for US-based brands in 2018.”

62  Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_BathBodyGroomFrag_fcx.indd 62 2/20/18 3:53 PM

 PRODUCTS and SERVICES showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

To reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski
kjednachowski@allured.com
1-630-344-6054

PACKAGING PRIVATE LABEL

www.GCImagazine.com Products and Services Showcase   63

GCI1803_PS Showcase_1st.indd 63 2/19/18 9:27 AM

 AD INDEX
The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE ADVERTISER PHONE WEB SITE

39 AMETEK/Brookfield Engineering Labs, Inc. 1-508-946-6200 www.brookfieldengineering.com
29 Anisa International, Inc. 1-404-869-6475 www.anisa.com

C2 Bioscreen Testing Services 1-310-214-0043 www.bioscreen.com

32–33 Campo Research Pte Ltd. 11-656-383-3203 www.campo-research.com
C4 Centerchem, Inc. 1-203-822-9800 www.centerchem.com
59 Classic Cosmetics, Inc. 1-818-773-9042 www.classiccosmetics.com
1 Cosmetic Group USA, Inc. 1-818-767-2889 www.cosmeticgroupusa.com
31 Dr. Paul Lohmann GmbH KG 49-51-5563-5861 www.lohmann4minerals.com
C3 Fusion Packaging 1-214-747-2004 www.fusionpkg.com
9 Grant Industries 1-201-791-8700 www.grantinc.com
57 Kisaco Research/Beauty & Money 44-20-3696-2920 www.beautymoneysummitla.com
3 Lipotec, LLC 1-201-850-1213 www.lipotec.com
25 Natural Sourcing LLC 1-203-267-6061 www.naturalsourcing.com
35 NY SCC/Suppliers' Day 1-201-750-9785 www.nyscc.org
21 Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics Global www.in-cosmetics.com/global
47 Spectra Colors Corp. 1-201-997-0606 www.spectracolors.com

15 Spectrum Chemical Mfg Corp. 1-800-839-8774 www.spectrumchemical.com

51 Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc. 1-800-985-2228 www.sundeepinc.com

5 U.S. Nonwovens Corp. 1-631-952-0100 www.usnonwovens.com

19 Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc. 1-973-345-8600 www.vantagegrp.com

49 Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc. 1-973-465-1200 www.welch-holme-clark.com

7 YonWoo/PKG 1-631-981-8701 www.pkggroup.com

64   Ad Index   Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

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 [podcast]
Packaging
Design for
Omnichannel
Consumers

Although the majority of beauty product sales are still happening in retail, most of growth in beauty sales is online.

| BY SHERI L. KOETTING, MSLK

Y
our goal as a brand is to connect Your Target Customer
with consumers in as many Unlocking your ideal packaging design strategy
ways and locations as possible. requires an understanding of your target audience.
Omnichannel shoppers are Before all else, establish who your ideal consumers
high-value customers, spending are, why you want to connect with those customers
more in every channel on every and what role you intend to play in their lives. How
occasion. No matter how fabulous your product do you anticipate you will answer their pain points,
formulations, your product’s packaging is your hopes, desires? How do these drivers influence
brand’s initial presentation to these consumers. aspects of your packaging?
Here are a few of the strategies we consider How are your existing products related to your
when designing beauty product packaging for current brand? What do your customers value
every channel. most from and associate with your brand? What is

www.GCImagazine.com Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 Allured Business Media. DE1

GCI1803_DE_Packaging Design_1st.indd 1 2/23/18 4:53 PM

 [PODCAST] PACKAGING DESIGN FOR OMNICHANNEL CONSUMERS
Descriptive brand names like DryBar communicate a lot to consumers in just a few characters;
@thedrybar, Facebook.
your competition doing presently, and
how are they not meeting the unique
needs of the consumer? Your ability
to answer these questions thoroughly
is the essential foundation for your
brand’s success.
Physical Retail Matters
While it gets all the headlines, digital
sales only made up 11% of all retail
sales in 2016, indicating that the vast
majority of shopping still happens in
physical stores.a There is no substitute
for the exposure, brand awareness
and foot traffic that physical retail
can bring. Replacing that exposure
digitally would require you to invest
significantly more in your brand.
a
Aaron Smith and Monica Anderson, “Online
Shopping and E-Commerce,” December 19,
2016; www.​pewinternet.​org/​2016/​12/​19/​online-
shopping-and-e-commerce/
DE2    Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018
GCI1803_DE_Packaging Design_1st.indd 2
This is why we must still consider
what your customers’ 10-, 5-, and 2-ft
experience with your brand will be in-
store. Coordinate color and packaging
structure to entice consumers from a
distance. When they’re within 5 ft of
your products, customers can begin
deciphering the symbols, iconography
and primary imagery of your lines.
Words, materials and finishes
are considered last, and are only
discernable at a 2-ft distance.
If you are going to be in retail, you
must prepare a package that is designed
to succeed at your target channels. In-
store, the retailer is in control of how
your brand is presented, not you. You
will rarely have the opportunity for a
do-over, which is why it is important
to get it right from the beginning.
Once you launch, any rebranding
must consider existing brand equity,
inventory and transition packaging.
Before establishing your retail
positioning, take some time for
contemplation and review:
• Will your products be
merchandised together or
separately throughout the store?
• Is your brand prepared to compete
with the noise level of your
intended channels of distribution?
• How will your packaging stand
apart from the competition?
Harnessing Digital Growth
Although the majority of beauty
product sales are still happening
in physical retail, most of growth
in beauty sales is online. Beauty
enthusiasts are known to shop in
both mass and prestige, and growth
in the prestige segment—growing at a
steady $1 billion rate every year since
2012—can largely be attributed to
online sales, according to Pew data (see
footnote a).
In contrast to retail, where words
are the last thing consumers notice,
users see words first online. It is
crucial to know how consumers
discover new products online and
optimize accordingly. Some are Google
searching specific terms, some are
browsing through websites such as
Amazon, Sephora and Ulta, and many
are heavily influenced by what their
peers and favorite bloggers share on
social media.
To optimize your product’s packaging
for digital, focus on your word usage
choices in brand and product naming.
What do these names communicate
about you? If you’re aiming for a
superb digital channel, nothing is more
important than a brand name and URL
that is clear and direct. Descriptive
brand names like DryBar, ingredients
like Moroccanoil, founder reputability
like Dr. Perricone and even evocative
words like Bliss communicate a lot to
consumers in just a few characters.
For example, while both Shea
Moisture and Cantu offer the same
key ingredient benefit in their
w
2/23/18 4:53 PM
 products—shea butter—only one plain all-white packaging. Also, refrain your beautiful luxe packaging or your
lists and leverages benefits of the from using shiny metallic finishes— impeccable design.
essential ingredient in the brand name. their glare can render products difficult When considering social, all of the
Consumers searching online may not to photograph. same rules for PR apply. Make sure
look any further than that. your products reflect your desired
consumers’ tastes and lifestyles. Use
Sharable Packaging
clean and simple typography that
The Unboxing Experience Designs for Social Media pops and is easy to read in reduced
Well-designed outer shipping boxes, According to data gathered by sizes; select stark colors that both
inserts and packaging materials are Olapic c, 56% of social media users stand out and are not difficult to
an important part of the unboxing are more likely to buy a product photograph.
experience that follows digital after seeing it featured in a relatable, Follow these guidelines and your
shopping. Make sure this moment user-generated image than seeing it gorgeous designs are sure to increase
reflects your brand ethos as well, in traditional advertising. Give your your social media traffic. If you want to
because unboxing impacts the customers a packaging experience be a real consumer darling, incorporate
customer’s desire to share. they are eager to talk about, whether an engaging hashtag into your
Shipping cartons that are uniquely it be your unique dispensing methods, packaging, so when your customers
designed or reflect the brand’s
share on social media, they know what
personality have an impact on c
www.​olapic.​com and where you want them to post.
consumer opinion post-purchase,
especially for luxury brands.
According to Dotcom Distribu­
tion’s 2016 eCommerce Packaging
Study b, 68% of consumers felt the
unboxing experience made the brand
seem more upscale, and 44% said it
reinforced that the product ordered
was well worth the cost.
Additionally, 58% noted gift-like
packaging profoundly influenced their
perception of the brand, and 61%
believed packaging made them more
likely to repeat the purchase. Dotcom
also found that samples, coupon codes,
and requests for reviews inside the box
are excellent ways to increase customer
engagement.

PR-ready Packaging
When it comes to public relations,
beauty editors are looking for bold
and colorful packaging, as well as
packaging that compliments industry-
wide movements. For example,
trends like athletic beauty products
and witchy fashion have caught the
attention of beauty editors, influencers
and consumers alike.
Beauty editors love daring and
flamboyant designs, so try to avoid

b
www.​dotcomdist.​com/​Study-Delivery-Time-
Influences-87-Percent-of-Online-Shoppers-92- Well-designed outer shipping boxes, inserts and packaging materials are an important part of the unboxing
experience that follows digital shopping.
Purchase-Decisions

www.GCImagazine.com [podcast] Packaging Design for Omnichannel Consumers   DE3

GCI1803_DE_Packaging Design_1st.indd 3 2/23/18 4:53 PM

 [PODCAST] PACKAGING DESIGN FOR OMNICHANNEL CONSUMERS

Video & Home Shopping

Design Tips
According to Adweek d, 90% of QVC’s
revenue comes from beauty enthusiasts
who want to stay up-to-date with
what’s going on in the world through
their retail experience. After all, home
shopping customers know that every
time they engage with the brand,
they’re going to see something new.
Whether video on social media,
your brand site or home shopping
is your target, make sure your
packaging is visually appealing and
easy to read from afar. Consider the
following guidelines to optimizing your
packaging in video:

• Avoid white, black, yellow and red

colors, which tend not to read well
on video. Opt instead for jewel
tones.
• Stay away from stripes and
elaborate patterns, as these will
vibrate on screen.
• If you’re selling a product with
fragrance, choose visual cues
that connote the scent (a lemon
illustration for citrus scents, for
example).
• Choose packaging that is easy to
use and apply, as demonstr­ations of
product use are crucial.
For home shopping, your product
will need to have easily understood
results to succeed. Home shopping
works best when befores and afters or
statistics such as “95% of participants
saw fewer wrinkles” are presented
to the audience. Try to ensure these
results are demonstrable, so home
viewers can see the results.
While both Shea Moisture and Cantu offer the same key ingredient benefit in their products—shea
butter—only one lists and leverages benefits of the essential ingredient in the brand name. Consumers
searching online may not look any further than that.
packaging design can become much
Making More Objective
more objective. n
Decisions
These are just some of the factors
and influences we consider when SHERI L. KOETTING is the
founder and chief strategist of MSLK
designing packaging. Of course, all of (http://mslk.com/beauty-graphic-design/),
these deliberations must be weighed a beauty branding agency based in
and balanced with the unique goals New York. MSLK specializes in helping
and personality of the brand itself. beauty brands find their voice in today’s
crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from
However, when armed with the overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail
objective lenses we have outlined experience, websites and social media campaigns. Contact:
above, subjective decisions about sheri@mslk.com.

d
Sami Main, “QVC Has Quietly Become
Successful With Streaming Audiences, and SUBSCRIBE TO OUR DAILY NEWSLETTER
Nearly Half Its Revenue Is From Ecommerce,” for the latest news and launches.
June 28, 2017; http://www.​adweek.​com/​
tv-video/​qvc-has-quietly-become-successful-
with-streaming-audiences-and-nearly-half-its- www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter
revenue-is-from-ecommerce/

DE4    Global Cosmetic Industry | March 2018

GCI1803_DE_Packaging Design_1st.indd 4 2/23/18 4:53 PM

 WE’D SAY
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