When troubleshooting opamps, there are some telltale signs from simple DC measurements.

If we ignore the very small voltage offsets, we can generally determine if an opamp's output state is
valid for the input pin voltages.

Opamps have very large internal voltage gain. This voltage gain tells the output to go in the same
direction as any input voltage difference. This input voltage difference is relative, so it doesn't matter
where the two input pins are (within reason), but which input is more positive relative to the other.

For the case of the + input pin, being more positive than the - input pin, a valid state is for the opamp
output to be driven positive. Conversely if the positive input pin is at a more negative voltage relative to
the negative input pin, the valid output state is for the opamp output to be driven negative.

Connecting up "negative" feedback around this high voltage gain block, tends to drive the negative input
pin to be almost exactly the same voltage is the + input pin.

If the circuitry including the opamp isn't working properly there are two common problems. #1 the
feedback network is open, so the output is sitting at full gain pegged one way or the other and the
corrective feedback isn't getting back to - input, or #2 the negative feedback is connected properly and
the opamp is broken, so it's output is in some invalid state, that doesn't agree with the simple rules of
output direction follows input relative difference.

Obvious things to check also is that all supplies are connected and delivering correct voltages, and finally
that there isn't a dead short or unusual low impedance load on the opamp output that it can't
overcome.

I have seen some obscure opamp failures where this troubleshooting wasn't adequate, but for 99% of
the cases this will point you toward the problem area.

JR

Note: with negative feedback connected and the opamp working properly, we may measure mV of error
voltages in the input, so in practice a working opamp could appear to be indicating an invalid state, but
this is just the nature of the beast and all opamps (especially older ones) have very small DC errors that
need to be discounted.
 A DC test:
You need to make a simple test jig for this.
You need a multimeter and a 9V battery, or 12V DC plug pack etc. Some resistors allow further
tests. Use metal film resistors rather than carbon types. I suggest wiring this to a zero insertion
force socket so the device under test can be plugged in easily:

Wire the power supply (+) through a switch to a decoupling network consisting of a series
resistor of 100 ohms then a shunt 10uF tantalum capacitor to power supply (-). This is the power
supply point for the op-amp across the capacitor. Measuring voltage across this resistor will
provide 1V for each 10mA of current. The dividers mentioned below will draw 5mA approx, so
0.5V from them.

Connect the + and - supplies of the op-amp to the supply point.

Connect two resistors, each 1K, in series across the supply. These provide a reference voltage at
the midpoint. Bypass the midpoint to the supply negative with a capacitor (1uF tantalum). This is
the equivalent of the common rail in a dual supply setup.

Connect the (+) input of the op-amp to the point where the midpoint, using a 1M resistor.

Connect the (-) input of the op-amp to the output with a 1M resistor.

When powered up the output should go to 50% of the supply voltage, as defined by the two
resistor divider. If the (-) of the multimeter is connected to the divider midpoint, and the (+) to
the output pin, the reading should be around 0V. This is simply a unity gain buffer.

A further test is to add a switchable 10K resistor between the (-) input and the midpoint. This
will give a gain of 101 (so gain of 100 within the resistor's margin). This amplifies the offset
voltage by 100 times, so 1mV offset causes 100mV output that can be easily measured.
Additionally if the bias current is excessive or unbalanced, it will be converted to voltage offset
by the 1M resistors.

Thus you measure the current drawn, check the op-amp is working in that it can zero the output
to the midpoint reference, and that the offset and bias currents are reasonable. This is enough to
verify operation for most situations. You could try heating a little to check offset temperature
drift.

One other test is to add a load resistor say 4.7K between the output and either supply pin, one at
a time, and verify the output voltage is unchanged as the load is connected or not. This confirms
that the amplifier can supply at least 1mA of load current. The maximum current depends on the
op-amp spec, so this resistor could be changed to suit.

 4 years ago
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You can do an open loop test by making a string of 3 resistors across the supply, two equal large
resistances and one smaller resistance between them. For instance you might put a 100 ohm
resistor between two 100k resistors. this makes two voltages very close together and about half
way between the supply rails.

Connect the supply to the op amp and connect the two inputs to each end of the low value
resistor. The output should saturate near one or the other supply rail. Disconnect the two inputs
and reverse their connections to the low value resistor and the output should swing to near the
other supply rail.

This simple test does not quantify either the input offset voltage nor the open loop gain, but gives
a quick test that the input offset voltage is not huge and the open loop gain is pretty large. Most
op amp failures will cause the op amp to fail this simple test.

OP AMP IC 741 TESTING CIRCUIT USING LED

Set up the circuit on PCB .
Use 8pin IC socket for testing 741.
Connect +V, -V and GND.

Verify the ON and OFF conditions of LED 1 and LED 2.