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Issue Fifty NINE

APRIL 2016

Grace Kelly
Luxury • Culture • People • Style • Heritage
Leader.
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Contents
aPril 2016 : ISSUE 59

Editorial
Editorial director
John Thatcher

Editor
Chris Ujma
christopher@hotmediapublishing.com

Features Editor
Annie Darling

art
art director
Andy Knappett

designer
Emi Dixon

illustrator
Andrew Thorpe

CommErCial
managing director
Victoria Thatcher

Group Commercial director


David Wade
david@hotmediapublishing.com
Forty Four Fifty Six
Amazing Grace The Greatest
Commercial director
Rawan Chehab How to un-nerve an Oscar Delving into the complexity,
rawan@hotmediapublishing.com winner in 1956: make her passion and drive of Ali –
Princess of Monaco. The gloves off – with the woman
Business development manager private life of Grace Kelly who adored him throughout
Rabih El Turk
rabih@hotmediapublishing.com Fifty Sixty Six
Telling the Truth Elvis Reborn?
The real story behind The unknown singer plucked
ProduCtion
Catch Me If You Can. Frank from obscurity with a voice
Production manager Abagnale Jr. discusses life indistinguishable from that
Muthu Kumar on the other side of the law of The King

9
Contents
aPril 2016 : ISSUE 59
air

Eighteen
Radar
80 competitive sail
boats, 1,000 sailors, the
Caribbean... it must be Les
Voiles de Saint Barth

Twenty Four Forty Seventy Four


Jewellery Timepieces Gastronomy
Gems are hand-selected; When HYT sets about Meet Annie Féolde, the
designs are perfected for making a timepiece, they culinary force behind
each stone. Glenn Spiro is a end up rewriting the rules. the legendary Enoteca
true jewellery architect Welcome to hydro horology Pinchiorri, now in Dubai

Twenty Eight Seventy Seventy Eight


Art & Design Motoring Travel
The tallest building in the The UAE adores Bentley. The remarkable Song Saa
world hosts two giants of the Did the marque tailor its Private Island in Cambodia
art universe. Picasso and powerful, agile Bentayga for has a speedboat at the ready
Miró are the icons at the icon this very region? to whisk you from your jet

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876


Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

Reproduction in whole or in part without


written permission from HOT Media
Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media
Publishing does not accept liability for
omissions or errors in AIR.

10
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Theoretical range shown is based on cruise at Mach 0.80 with eight passengers, three crew and NBAA IFR fuel reserves.
Actual range will be affected by ATC routing, operating speed, weather, outfitting options and other factors.
Empire Aviation Group
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Welcome to this issue of AIR, our aviation lifestyle


magazine for onboard guests and charter clients.
In this issue, we are focusing on trends in charter,
as the demand for charter services has continued to
grow strongly since the start of the year, when charter
bookings saw a significant boost, with 30% growth in
the first two months, alone.
This comes as no great surprise, with the global
economy remaining uncertain and business jet buyers
looking to buy new aircraft or replace their existing
aircraft delaying their decisions.
Globally, new jet sales are being pushed back and
even with lower oil prices, the regional fleet of business
jets is likely to grow only modestly over the next one-
two years – but of course business never stops and
business people are still deal-making around the region
and around the globe.
With its range of options, our charter fleet meets
the needs of most business or leisure travellers with
the Falcon 7X, Embraer Legacy 650, 600, Bombardier
Challenger 605 and Challenger 300 proving to be very

Welcome
popular and generating repeat business from charter
Clients. They appreciate and enjoy the experience
of flying in some of the most advanced business jets

Onboard
around, in spacious, comfortable cabins with large
baggage capacity, and offering long range and non-stop
capability.
And thanks to our new office and operation in San
issue fifty NiNe
Marino, we can also help our owners charter their
aircraft anywhere in the world, through direct bookings
and charter brokers, helping to strengthen this vital
part of our service and benefitting our aircraft owners
and charter clients, equally. Charter services don’t
end on the tarmac and in addition to meet and greet,
ground transportation is typically part of the range of
personalised services provided to charter clients, 24/7.

So, it’s a win-win for owners and charter clients.

Enjoy the read.

Steve Hartley Paras Dhamecha


Executive Director Executive Director

Contact Details:
info@empire.aero
empireaviation.com

13
Empire Aviation Group
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Empire makes its the regional business jet fleet size business centres in Africa and the CIS
mark with charter has grown seven per cent per annum
over the last five years but aircraft
countries.
In the key winter holiday season
Empire Aviation Group has seen purchasing is slowing. Charter for leisure charter, the Indian Ocean
business jet charter traffic increase demand remains strong and with a is perennially popular, with the
by 40% in the year to date, compared clear preference for larger cabin, Maldives heading the list of favourite
to 2015, with strong growth in longer range aircraft. destinations.
corporate charters as a result of It’s easy to see why. EAG offers a full management
the ongoing economic activity in the Corporate charter clients are able service to aircraft owners, based
region and the business re-building to reach multiple destinations around on a distinctive asset management
opportunities in Iran. the entire GCC region, including approach which helps owners to
Business charter has accounted for Doha, Kuwait, Riyadh and Jeddah, optimise their investment and protect
80% of charter bookings in 2016 with or international destinations non- the long term value of their aircraft
typical missions comprising inbound stop, only through the efficiency asset, covering all aspects of aircraft
corporate roadshows to destinations of private charter, which offers the operation, the option of charter, and
in the region and long haul flights to speed, convenience and flexibility maintenance management.
international business destinations, for demanding business travel We have successfully transited
through EAG charter aircraft itineraries. owners from private-use-only to
operating out of Dubai World Central, The key trade routes around the GCC a model including charter, as the
the new global hub of commercial and and Middle East (especially Riyadh demand for larger business jets grows
private aviation. and Jeddah, Saudi Arabia) remain in the charter sector. This shows the
Regional industry indicators remain very active for business charter, flexibility of the asset management
encouraging although cautious; alongside the European cities such model we operate which ensures we
industry commentators suggest that as London and Paris, and the key can meet owners’ objectives.

14
www.empireaviation.com
Empire Aviation Group
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Business jet charter -


designed for business
Companies with a range of different on a charter flight can conduct
travel needs but not enough regular meetings with the assurance of total
Out of Africa – missions for a dedicated business privacy.
On Charter aircraft, may opt for charter.
At first glance, private charter
When is charter the best option?
According to AvBuyer.com, it depends
Empire Aviation Group recently added flights may look similar to scheduled on how many yearly hours you fly.
a new aircraft to its fleet based in airline flights in terms of the actual • If it’s less than 150 hours annually,
Africa, where it now manages five flight-time needed to reach a full jet ownership is unlikely to be the
business jets. The latest aircraft – a destination. But this is where the best solution for you. Charter is best.
Challenger 300 model from Canadian similarity ends because business jets • Around 250 hours annually, a block
manufacturer Bombardier – is based offer a range of unique conveniences. hour contract could be a better
in Lagos, Nigeria and is the first of A business jet charter flight does not prospect. This is where you buy a
EAG’s managed aircraft in Africa to be follow a rigid schedule and missions set minimum number of hours at a
offered to the charter market. can be tailored to suit any travel fixed rate with the option to select an
The Challenger 300 is a super mid- need and specific itinerary, including aircraft type that suits your needs.
size jet with nine seats and with multiple destinations. So, your • Not a regular charter user but
an intercontinental range (3,100 charter flight is very unlikely to be interested in buying an aircraft? You
nautical miles) and high speed cruise cancelled or delayed because it flies can sample different types to get a
capabilities (Mach 0.83), offering to your personal travel schedule. better understanding of which model
very high reliability and competitive Checking-in is an equally personal fulfills your mission best.
operating costs. experience and is far more relaxed. • Even if you already own a private
The new aircraft will help meet the Security is paramount of course and jet, what if you need to travel at
needs of the growing charter market bags still need to be scanned and short notice and your jet is already
in Africa, and offers a very good all travelling passengers must pass in-use or you need a long-range jet or
balance of capacity, range and overall through security, but without all the one that can operate into a shorter
value. delays that are quite normal with runway? Many charter operators offer
The diversity of aircraft we manage scheduled airlines. So, you really can a supplemental lift policy: charter
– from the Dassault Falcon to arrive 15 minutes before departure. another aircraft for your destination.
Bombardier Challenger and Embraer With easy check-in and no risk of Chartering as a business tool
Legacy - is an important factor in lost bags, business jet charter always offers the opportunity to reach more
offering charter clients a good range makes good business sense in terms remote locations, get to meetings
of options, and our experience in of flexibility, efficiency and privacy. more quickly, visit more than one
operating particular aircraft models As well as efficient travel, business destination in a day, and offers
is also reassuring to clients. people travelling together valuable corporate solutions.

16
Radar
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59
AIR

18
The sailing world’s finest will dock at
the beautiful island of Saint Barthélemy
this month, as the annual Richard
Mille-sponsored Les Voiles de Saint
Barth welcomes as many as 80 boats
to the Caribbean, crewed by 1,000
sailors. They’re there from April 11-16
to participate in high-level competition
at sea, and higher-level frivolity on
land, once the sun has set and the
festivities ensue. Visitors should
take the opportunity to stay at Le
Guanahani, which celebrated its 30th
birthday this year by taking the wraps
off a four-year, USD40 million makeover.
lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com

19
Critique
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Film
Demolition
Dir: Jean-Marc Vallée
A successful investment
banker unravels after
tragically losing his wife in a
violent car crash
AT BEST: “A unique take on
what could otherwise be a
morbidly depressing tale…
dishing out tons of energy
and devilish humour”.
Hollywood Reporter
AT WORST: “A frustratingly
aimless soul-search that
veers uncomfortably
between quirk and
melancholy.” The Guardian

The Dark Horse


Dir: James Napier Robertson
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An emotionally-charged true story based on the life of a brilliant


chess champion

AT BEST: “The heartfelt telling of a truly extraordinary true story


with a mesmerising central performance.” Empire
AT WORST: “The script could have done without the odd bout of
heavy-handed chess symbolism”. The Guardian

Everybody Wants Some


Dir: Richard Linklater
Hilarious comedy about ‘80s baseball players who navigate their way
through college
AT BEST: “Endlessly charming and sneakily wise, Everybody Wants
Some epitomises Linklater’s unique ability to magnify human
behaviour with levity.” Indie Wire
AT WORST: “The film’s structure – off-putting in the early going,
irresistible by the end – is ingenious.” ScreenCrush

Francofonia
Dir: Aleksandr Sokurov
A history of the Louvre during the Nazi occupation and a reflection on
art, culture and power
AT BEST: “As fun as it is funereal… a philosophical depth and
richness that are found almost nowhere else in cinema.” The
Telegraph
AT WORST: “Does it all come together? Well, yes… highly personal
yet captivating.” Variety

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Critique
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Theatre
F lorian Zeller’s The Truth runs
until May 7 at London’s Menier
Chocolate Factory, a new arts venue
in Southwark that produces its own
plays, musicals and comedies. The
latest piece by the French dramatist
is “funny, thought-provoking and
plays seamlessly as a dream,” writes
The Guardian’s Kate Kellaway. “The
dialogue is pacy, with a heartless
sheen… The Truth moves with the
fluency of a dance that keeps turning
on its own heel. It is an entertaining,
unsettling, must-see show”.
“Zeller delicately and dazzlingly
interlaces the stories of two
couples,” asserts Mark Shenton
of The Stage. It’s a “sophisticated
production”, which is “acted with
both churning tension and great
feeling”. Shenton concludes that
it’s a “playful, poignant infidelity
drama that cuts surprisingly deep.”
Above: Alice (Frances O’Connor) with Michel (Alexander Hanson) in The Truth
On the contrary, Henry Hitchings
of The Standard writes that the aural feast,” he writes. “The feel In New York, Aaron Loeb brings
“production doesn’t always have and look of the show is a wonderful a dark comic edge to the heart
enough zip”, before admitting that, combination of stage, film and music of Midtown at 59E59 Theatres.
“it’s shrewdly performed”. The final video.” Herald Sun’s Kate Herbert Ideation, which Laura Collins-Hughes
result, Hitchings cautiously argues, is similarly convinced, describing of the New York Times describes
is “slippery entertainment, veering Ghost as a “spectacular display as “creepy”, runs until April 17 at
towards farce but also laced with of technical wizardry, tear-jerking this spectacular modern venue. “A
cruel human insight”. songs and tragic romance”. She does comedy that satirises office politics
Meanwhile, based on the Oscar- acknowledge that “some may find this and skewers groupthink, even as its
winning film of the same name, Ghost show to be schmaltzy and too much annihilation scenario comes to seem
the Musical is bringing a slice of ‘90s like a rom-com,” but insists that it’s unsettlingly plausible,” she claims. “It
New York to Sydney’s Theatre Royal “faithful to the original movie while [the production] gradually ramps up
until May 1. The Morning Herald’s still creating a satisfyingly innovative the uncertainty and moral horror of
Cameron Woodhead “regrettably” theatrical production.” Ben Neutze of its little band of collaborators, played
asserts that, “Ghost the Musical the Daily Review arrives at a complex by a first-rate ensemble.
isn’t a patch on the movie it trades conclusion. “It’s not the most “The characters’ alarm mounts,
off.” Nonetheless, “humour is intricate or profound of narratives, the mood darkens, and their anxiety
the one part of the show that but it’s sweet and moving enough. becomes faintly contagious –
unambiguously works… Romance, “Musically, it is a somewhat mixed excellent fodder, really, for post-show
however, is seriously short-changed, bag – unfortunately the weakest conversation.” She concludes that
and at one level that’s down to the number opens the show – but it’s it’s a “psychological game, one that’s
sheer blandness of the songs.” Ron always accessible and there are some both amusing and intriguing to play.”
Cerabona of the Canberra Times great highlights”. He writes that, “The devilishly funny and demonically
explains this musical adaptation “Although there’s really nothing wrong dark comedy… is as sidesplitting and,
of the hit movie is “well produced” with the choreography, it’s a tad on if anything, more deeply disturbing
but “lacking a bit of spirit”. Glam the corny side”, before concluding, that it seemed at first encounter,”
Adelaide’s Brian Godfrey is largely “Ghost mightn’t be your style – I’m enthuses Robert Hurwitt of SFGate,
positive, writing that the production pretty sure it’s not mine – but it’s while Karen D’Souza of S.J. Mercury
“is every bit as magical, charming, generously entertaining and well- News positively describes Ideation as
funny, dramatic and romantic as made. And you can’t always say that a “darkly funny corporate thriller”, as
the original. A stunning visual and about screen-to-stage adaptations.” well as a “suspenseful drama”.

21
Critique
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Art
revolutionary era or just before,
with Malevich’s Black Square (1915)
or Tatlin’s Monument to the Third
International (1919-20).” Jones
asserts that this is a “shallow” cliché,
that can only be fully understood
by visiting Moscow’s Tretyakov.
Although the London exhibition, which
runs until June 26, contains merely
a “selection of its [Tretyakov’s]
highlights”, it “introduces us to the
remarkable artists who painted
them”. Ben Luke of the Evening
Standard concurs that, “there are
moments of brilliance”. The painting
of Tchaikovsky by Nikolai Kuznetsov
is particularly “emotionally rich,
captured in vivid, lively paint.” The
Telegraph’s Mark Hudson agrees that,
“this relatively small show provides
not only a vivid and intimate survey
of an extraordinary period, but a
Left: Anton Chekhov by Iosif Braz, 1898, © State Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow
RIght: The Beatles, by Peter Laurie, 1964, Condé Nast Archive London kind of advert for the virtues of an
AIR

extraordinary period”.

“T he 20th iteration of the


biennale offers an intriguing,
if uneven, reflection of the here and
seem obtuse… the combination of
new and old seems, oddly enough,
futuristic.” Frost carefully concludes:
Reviewing Vogue 100: A Century of
Style – also at the National Portrait
Gallery – which runs until May 22,
now,” writes Andrew Frost of the “That the biennale is at times Hudson describes the featured
Guardian about the Sydney Biennale, frustrating, dystopic, obtuse and portraits as “the absolute cream
which runs until June 5. Sprawling ugly – instead of always utopian, of fashion photography.” He goes
over six main venues, in addition to beautiful, accessible and optimistic on to claim that, “all the great
a “constellation of temporary and – proves that it is once more a names in photography are here…
roving sites”, each venue is a “neutral reflection of the here and now.” The impression is of extraordinary
zone of related thematic ideas” based In London, the National Portrait brimming creativity. Just as you feel
around science fiction. Frost argues Gallery’s new exhibition Russia you must have encountered every
this “connection between the two and the Arts: The Age of Tolstoy talented person of the past hundred
genres makes sense”. They “share and Tchaikovsky proudly features years, here’s another roomful more”.
a history” and “both express and a striking collection of portraits Hudson asserts that, “this knockout
explore concerns about the nature showcasing writers, musicians, exhibition may look like it’s primarily
of human experience”. However, he actors and artistic patrons; all for those interested in fashion,
claims the biennale is “overloaded have been loaned from Moscow’s but looking back on it, I can hardly
– and maybe overthought – the Tretyakov Gallery. Jonathan Jones remember any fashion... It’s all about
experience at the venues is more of the Guardian writes that, “This storytelling, image-making and
diffuse than this cluster of words gathering of cultural heroes from the personalities.” Sarah Crompton
and concepts might suggest.” later nineteenth century up to 1914, is of The Guardian is equally enthralled
Nonetheless, the “mixture of intense, tortured and troubled. by what she saw. “It is the quality of
materials and metaphor works very “[A] tough eye for human frailty the images that guarantees Vogue’s
well, and reflects the way in which is what makes this exhibition so continuing eminence.”
literary and cinematic science fiction intimate and somber.” Commenting “Fashion may be fickle, but the
weaves its worlds.” Although certain on the artists themselves, Jones fashion photographer’s lens is also
exhibitions are “highly atmospheric”, explains that they “share the a mirror,” writes Miriam Bouteba of
others are “flippant or slight, or sensitivity, honesty and the searching Time Out London. “The exhibit is as
must be read in a context entirely unease of the writers and composers much a reflection of a hundred years
unapparent”. Although the connection they portray.” He writes, “modern of our history as it is a celebration of
between the overall theme “might art is often imagined to begin in the the original glossy.”

22
Critique
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Books
“T om Bower is to biography
what Cruella de Vil was to
dalmatians,” opens Craig Brown for
the Mail on Sunday, commenting
on Broken Vows: Tony Blair – The
Tragedy of Power. “If you are his
subject, you are also his victim.”
According to Brown, Bower’s “bias
is pervasive, the facts bent to show
Blair in the worst possible light”,
and that the “boundary between
truth and conjecture” are obscured.
“The book would carry more weight
if Bower were not so ham-fisted, so
clearly focused on seeing the worst
in everyone,” he continues, “‘Blair’s
hair had turned grey, and, despite
spending an hour most days in the
gym, his youthful looks had faded,’
he writes, just a few pages before the
end. But whose youthful looks haven’t
faded by the age of 62?”
“A 600-page unrelenting, forensic
monstering,” writes Chris Mullin of
the Irish Times. Blair is “taken apart
and trashed. All motives are assumed
to be the worst.” Andy McSmith of the
Independent describes the release
as “dreary” and that it “does not
assess Tony Blair: it sets out to shred
whatever is left of his reputation… “From Richard Nixon’s dog to the who “yet again shows that she is
if you are furious that the Labour Mughal emperor who had his cook not only a consummate storyteller;
government was ever permitted to skinned alive, MacMillan’s study of she is also a brilliant historian.”
interrupt Conservative rule, here individual lives – both powerful and She demonstrates “excellent dry
is a book to enforce your prejudices.” little-known is exhilarating,” says wit, a broad range of reference –
Writing in The Times, Rachel Kathryn Hughes of the Guardian, from Montaigne and Marx to Punch
Sylvester concurs that “The barrage reviewing History’s People: cartoons and hobbits – and a gift
of criticism is relentless. The book Personalities and the Past. “In for storytelling”.
lacks any kind of balance.” our celebrity-obsessed culture, Meanwhile, Melissa Harrison’s
“Where Mr Bower gets it wrong,” Margaret MacMillan’s reflection having a prolific year; Rain: Four
claims the Economist, “is in casting on the role of individual great men Walks in English Weather is the
Mr Blair as a feckless flibbertigibbet and women in history is timely,” third book bearing her name to have
incapable of the serious analysis supports the Independent’s Rachel already surfaced this year. Shahidha
required to think through and Trethewey. “She rejects academia’s Bari of the Financial Times describes
implement complex policies.” old snobberies against biography... it as a “slender book that calls for
However, the Sunday Times’ Rod As a historian who admits to enjoying slow reading”. Harrison “writes in
Liddle is more favourable, claiming the ‘gossip’ of the past, MacMillan prose that is measured like poetry,
that it is “probably Bower’s finest, believes that history should be fun lilting then staccato by turns,
and most important, achievement as well as enlightening”. Madeleine paces with pauses and breaths, her
so far”. Thien of The Globe and Mail agrees, language as sure-footed as the routes
“Probably the most explosive book admitting that she found herself she takes along uplands.” Katharine
of 2016” agrees The Times Cultural “thinking repeatedly of fiction.” Norbury of the Guardian agrees that
Review 2016. “Bower has a reputation New Stateman’s Joanna Bourke was the book’s “a celebration on that
for unearthing unwelcome truths.” similarly “captivated” by the author, curiously English obsession...”

23
Jewellery
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Heaven
Set
AIR

With a natural eye for precious jewels and


the mastery to frame them, Glenn Spiro
is a true poet of gemstones

WORDS : CHRIS UJMA

W
hat you are about to be told attention to character that he also Glenn once shared with Vanity Fair
should, strictly, be imparted affords his discerning clientele, hence magazine’s Annabel Davidson.
by private appointment the secrecy. “We use truly fabulous, London-born Spiro’s story is almost
only, within a salon away from prying rare stones, and there’s a shortage of as fascinating to peer into as a deeply-
eyes. Because this impeccably-dressed those. That’s why we work with our enchanting gem itself: he trained as
jeweller and designer – who works bespoke clients on a very personal a master jeweller, worked on Cartier:
only with the rarest and most precious level to get them what they want, English Artworks, and in 1995 was
of stones – conceives each piece in and to create something completely named a senior director of Christie’s,
response to the gem’s intrinsic light, unique for them. It’s a relationship that also assuming the role as their
colour and shape; it is a personal almost always turns into a friendship,” international specialist of jewellery.

24
25
Eventually, Spiro set up workshops in carats there, perhaps a fancy cut flat
Los Angeles and Geneva to concentrate Mozambique ruby… One piece that
on private commissions, continuing to particularly resonates is his Reveal
forge close, lasting connections with Ring creation. It is a white gold and
select gem dealers. Now, G London – diamond pavé ring that, once twisted,
his own specialist House – is firmly on opens in a flower-bloom fashion, to
the haute jewellery radar. reveal a 1.01 carat pink diamond.
Your first signpost of exclusivity is The ring is slightly symbolic of the
the absence of named collections. He new direction for the House; still full
shares with us that, “Sometimes we of mystique and beauty, but opening-
find a beautiful gem but no design up slightly, becoming more accessible.
springs to mind, so it may sit in the The one-to-one meetings can still
vault for months or years and then one be sought, of course, but there is the
day we have an idea that might work opening of the first G London boutique
for it and we go from there. We don’t space in the UK capital, and a presence
design in collections for this reason in the the fine jewellery room at
– it is a far more fluid process than Harrods. “Our corner of Mayfair is
that.” The earlier comparison to him the most extraordinary property; it
as a poet stems from the way he talks was the old Hartnell building, which
about the selection process, where it we’ve restored to its former glory so
seems as though he sees into the soul of it is a privilege to be able to show our
every stone. “Ever since I first started
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working at the benches in my late teens,


I’ve been fascinated by the allure of
The gems are
precious gems, and watching people’s Mother Nature’s
reaction to them. As I’ve worked with
gems from such an early age, my
work, we simply
selection process is very instinctive; I place them in their
just touch, feel them and look at them,
with no help from technology. I think
proper setting
some of the magic of the selecting designs in this magnificent setting,”
and cutting process is being lost as purrs the founder. The new frontiers
people are putting all their trust into have brought new admirers. “It opened
technology to ensure they have the the door to clients who have seen
most ‘efficient’ cuts and flawless stones. everything there is to see from the big
Often, stones come to me that aren’t houses but come to us looking for one-
perfect but there is something about of-a-kind pieces, which really surprises
them that I just love and connect with. them. They are knowledgeable, so really
Technology can’t give you that emotion; appreciate works with intrinsic value,
you have to trust your instinct.” but also exceptional craftsmanship and
Once he chooses to make that ‘find’ the use of unusual materials.”
the focal point of a piece, the results are Spiro creates each piece as a stand-
breathtaking (though he says, rather alone, built around the beauty of a
humbly, that “The gems are Mother stone to enhance it when the right
Nature’s great work, we simply place design is dreamt up. Until ripe, it
them in their proper setting”). Glenn remains firmly locked away, unearthed
cites his inspiration as originating and admired by Spiro, but waiting for
from nature, music or just the shapes its opportunity to wow the world in the
and lines, designed “with a playfulness proper setting. Given their importance,
and confidence that transcends our perhaps the letter ‘G’ in G London
collections”. You’ll find a 20 carat represents not Glenn, but Gem.
pear-shaped blue diamond here, a rare Arrange a private appointment at
Colombian emerald weighing 23.05 glennspiro.com

26
27
Art & Design
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Past &
Present
AIR

The 2016 Venice Biennale will reflect on


the UAE’s contribution to the advancement
of architecture and culture, by focusing on
traditional Emirati social housing

T
he United Arab Emirates is a basic housing model was adapted “Moreover, only a handful of Arab
a world unto its own, where by residents to reflect their own countries have a permanent presence
East meets West and diverse interests and lifestyle. This year’s in the Biennale and consequently the
architecture merges into a convoluted National Pavilion will endorse the UAE’s participation really asserts its
juxtaposition that, peculiarly, works. UAE’s architecture through sculptures, regional significance. Our focus on art
La Biennale di Venezia in Venice, Italy, paintings and film, to ensure the and architecture highlights that the
is one of the most prestigious events region’s artists are at the forefront of UAE is a stable and maturing society.”
in the art world and this year Yasser international contemporary art. With only a few buildings that
Elsheshtawy, Associate Professor of “The UAE, by participating in such a are over a century old, the UAE is
Architecture at the UAE University, significant event, asserts its presence predominately known for its record-
has been chosen as the curator for the at a global level,” explains Elsheshtawy. breaking skyscrapers, improbable feats
region’s participation. The exhibition “We’re showing that we’re a country of engineering and ‘starchitects’. An oil
is titled Transformations: The Emirati that’s at the forefront of contemporary boom led to an unprecedented growth-
National House, and will focus on how artistic and architectural debates. spurt in the seventies, which resulted

28
Previous pages: Obaid Suroor,
Untitled (1994)
These pages: Moosa Al
Halyan, Horse Painting (1996)

We’re showing that we’re a


country at the forefront of artistic
and architectural debates
in some of the world’s most enviable mix of community and culture has
cityscapes, featuring the jaw-dropping always heavily influenced the region’s
Burj Khalifa, iconic Burj Al Arab, traditional Arabian architecture.
and Capital Gate building. However, A historical medley of Asian and
Elsheshtawy has decided to ditch the European influences has since set
AIR

profusion of glass and steel that mould the tone for Dubai’s imaginative
these architectural wonders of sail- and bizarre structural styles. Many
designs and petal-domes. “The UAE is remaining Sha’abi houses show
more than its iconic projects, shopping evidence of this cumulative acquisition.
malls and obviously spectacular “Residents over the years have modified
buildings,” says Elsheshtawy. “It has these houses through the addition
a wide-ranging scope of architectural of rooms, decorative elements, and
developments that go beyond the landscaping. This transformation has
clichéd views and elements associated made the house fall more in line with
with the country.” people’s lifestyle and culture. Our focus
The exhibition focuses on the Emirati is on these transformations and how
National House, also known as Sha’abi they have individualised specific homes
House; a social housing project that in the country.”
was implemented throughout the When he relocated to the UAE in
seventies and eighties, to offer homes 1996, this particular type of housing
and modern amenities to a transient quickly caught Elsheshtawy’s attention,
local population. “The programme “given its uniqueness and the degree
[Emirati National House] in its initial to which is has become part of the
stages was aimed at providing Emirati UAE vernacular.” He settled in Al
nationals with a modern house. It was Ain, where the original National
also a way to urbanise the country House is still common, and the
by settling its people, who were used social project immediately became a comfortable lifestyle in line with the
to roaming the desert and moving source of inspiration. “The UAE in its country’s increased levels of wealth.”
from one place to the next,” explains early formative years, while having The curator argues that the
Elsheshtawy. “A crucial aspect of nation substantive resources, was still in the places we inhabit can affect our
building was to settle them in a fixed early stages of nation building and thoughts and behaviour. “Our built
place – to that end, in addition to the urbanisation. Accordingly, the early environment plays a significant role
house, a piece of land was provided for houses were quite modest in terms of in shaping our lives on a number
agricultural purposes.” size and amenities. Over the years the of levels,” he explains. “Having
An ancient trading port for dhows size and space allocated to these houses an aesthetically pleasing visual
voyaging from the Gulf to India and increased substantively, which in turn environment plays a significant
East Africa, the UAE’s multicultural enabled residents to have a much more psychological function by sustaining

30
our interest and also stimulation, thus evolving skyline, megaprojects and unique.” However, traditional Arabic
leading to overall satisfaction. This can iconic developments. In many ways, housing enables residents to enjoy the
be achieved by having a harmonious this has enabled the city to be placed lifestyle of their forefathers, but with
setting in which various components on the map and to be considered an modern comforts. These houses are
and elements work together, without it important urban metropolitan centre. well designed and proudly protect the
becoming too monotonous and boring.” Elsheshtway believes that, “The region’s past. Surely that is something
The UAE and its main urban centres, changing population is reflected [in worth fighting for.
Abu Dhabi and Dubai, have witnessed the architecture]. The fact that more The 15th International Architecture
rapid urbanisation over the years. than 200 nationalities live in Dubai, Exhibition at la Biennale di Venezia
Dubai in particular has become for example, has turned it into a major will run from May 28 to November
exemplary in terms of its constantly cosmopolitan centre – something quite 27, 2016

31
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

Master craftsmanship, effortless style and timeless appeal;


this month’s must-haves and collectibles
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

sotheby ’s hong kong


DE BEERS mIllEnnIum JEwEl

Going under the hammer at Sotheby’s Millennium Jewels collection, unveiled at


Hong Kong on April 5 – having been the turn of this century. Paddles will need
offered for sale by its private collector to be raised around the estimate figures of
owner – is, at 10.10 carats, the largest USD30–35 million. This is the second
oval-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond diamond from the collection to be sold;
ever to appear at auction. It’s one of twelve a 5.16-carat pear-shaped blue diamond
rare diamonds which make up De Beers’ fetched USD6.4 million in April 2010.

1
E
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

tumi
BREnT wOOD SlIm BRIEF

A colour pallete of ivory and navy portfolios, it also includes the dashing
underpins Tumi’s Designer Select Brentwood Slim Brief. We’ve marked
Collection, the standout element of the this for special attention not only for its
brand’s Spring/Summer 2016 offering. multiple design details which transform
Comprising a backpack, tote (the perfect the mundane brief into a style statement,
work-through-weekend bag for on-the-go but also for the premium materials used to
girls), travel satchel and medium and large create it. A fine piece of craftsmanship.

2
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

bulgari
OCTO FInISSImO mInuTE
R E p E aT E R

Back in 2014, Bulgari set a new record the smallest on the market. To make it so
when launching the world’s thinnest slender in spite of its complications, the
tourbillon. Now the brand is at it again, in-house developed and produced BVL
forcing a rewrite of the history books Calibre 362 measures just 3.12mm thick,
with the introduction – at last month’s while the overall case thickness amounts
Baselworld – of the Octo Finissimo Minute to only 6.85mm. Limited to 50 pieces, this
Repeater, which now carries the crown as is a rare gem of a timepiece.

3
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

va n c l e e f & a r p e l s
T w O B u T T E R F ly B E T w E E n
ThE FIngER RIng

Van Cleef’s now iconic Between the Finger highest quality, the mother-of-pearl is
ring has always captured the imagination, displayed as a wonderful contrast to the
but as a twist the Maison has, with the diamond-studded pink gold which adorns
latest addition to the collection, used the adjacent butterfly, its wings open as if
mother-of-pearl for the first time. Notable caught mid-flight. It’s a piece which shows
for its regular surface and lustre of the off the Maison’s savoir-faire to the full.

4
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

I
c h o pa r d
pRECIOuS hauTE
J O a I l l E R I E w aT C h

Unveiled at last month’s Baselworld, this pastel blue sapphires (7.5cts), marquise-
striking Haute Joaillerie timepiece from cut sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.
the Precious Chopard Collection very The dial depicts a dainty corolla, while its
nearly stole the show. It’s crafted from dazzling bracelet references an ornamental
18ct white gold and is set with pear- jewellery lacework theme, as a nod to the
cut blue sapphires (25cts), brilliant-cut high level of craftmanship used.

5
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

gi vor i
a u D R E y v I n Ta g E

It’s an iPhone 6s with 128GB storage, the Audrey Vintage: black and white
yes. But with a Givori, it’s what is on the Swarovski crystals sit alongside finer,
outside that counts. They design every feminine details, such as the playful kitty,
cellphone as a masterpiece in its own right; the Lady Cabochon, the stiletto heel, the
hundreds of hours go into painstakingly flirtatious red lipstick, and the blossoming
embellishing every handset with the flowers – all of which add a joyful nuance
finest materials, to achieve a truly bespoke to this phone’s timeless design. Luxury
look. Upon this iPhone canvas is depicted handwear, handcrafted in Italy.

6
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

chanel
BOwlIng Bag

Being onboard your jet, you’ll already 11.12 handbag has grown into a weekend
know what it’s like to travel in style. But bag, replete with rhinestone airplanes, an
wouldn’t your journey be that touch more overtly playful tone sees cabin luggage
stylish if you had Chanel luggage? So shrunk into a minaudière, parked on real
thought Karl Lagerfeld, who made luggage wheels – Lagerfeld has also worked his
a key feature of Chanel’s Summer 2016 considerable magic on this sticker-adorned
Ready-to-Wear Collection. Reinterpreting suitcase-like bowling bag, in navy blue
some of the brand’s iconic designs – the tweed and leather.

7
OB JECTS OF DESIRE

i l l a s l a l aou i n e s
R E F. 4 4 0 6 5 2

They may be new to the Middle East 440652, an 18k-gold bracelet comprised
market, courtesy of Ali Bin Ali, but ilias of a hand-breaded chain, stripped roundels
Lalaounis arrives with a rich heritage and clasp. As with all ilias Lalaounis
from its Greek homeland, where its gold pieces, this one has a backstory – its design
jewellery is still handmade in Athens. is inspired by fragments of a necklace
From the Ilion Collection comes Ref. found in the excavations of Troy.

8
Art & Design
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Icons
at the
Icon
Picasso and Miró bring ‘Passion
and Poetry’ to Downtown Dubai,
a place well-acquainted with the
notion that creativity can change
the world

33
P We thought,
assion and Poetry, at the Burj gleaming gallery. Yet by the end of the
Khalifa, is a stroll down a viewing experience, your thoughts
chronological narrative path arrive at a distinctly defiant MiróCasso ‘why can’t we put
that, curator Sergio Gaddi explains,
“Crosses figures and themes that
mindset – ‘Who writes the rules
anyway?! Who says it can’t be done?’
art right into
characterised the experiences of both – because you become aware that the Dubai’s heart?’
Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró, through organisers, cognizant of the challenge,
a series of lithographs, ceramics and had a specific reason for choosing
graphics. However the exhibition is not the location.
merely a journey which tells a dialectic Before getting to that, what of the
relationship between history and exhibition’s title? Gaddi explains that,
contemporaneity, but also a dialogue “although their starting points were
between the signs of tradition lived similarly grounded in ‘reality’, Miró
AIR

and interpreted by the artists, and the is a poet, depicting the inner feelings
energies that lit up their creativity.” and the emotions, while Picasso
And as an observer, you tussle with turned to revolution, discovered new
logic. Not in trying to decipher the paths and ways of expression. Hence
vantage points from which Pablo Passion and Poetry”. The works are
captured his Harlequin with guitar in placed in sections titled ‘Creators of
1924, or at how Joan looked at both Myth’, ‘Inventors of New Languages’,
morning and night skies and arrived at ‘Jugglers of Form’, ‘Poets of Colour’ and
his brushstroked interpretation of both: ‘Alchemists of Art’, and there is plenty
no, such intellectual battles come later. here to inspire a new generation of art-
The first duel of the mind is when you lovers, and spine-tingle those already
consider the venue for this exhibition, acclimatised with art’s World Order.
which showcases 267 privately-owned Among the mesmeric displays of
collector’s pieces, each signed by their Pablo ‘Ruiz’, (Picasso was his mother’s
creator. By Gaddi’s own admission, The maiden name which he adopted, much
Annex at the Burj Khalifa – with its to the chagrin of his artist father, our
pipework running overhead, low-hung media tour is reliably told) are burin
grey ceiling rungs and distinctly non- etchings from the Natural History
gallery lighting – is not the first place collection, 20 Pochoir prints created
one would expect to have a profound between 1904 and 1953 which feature
encounter with these transcendent examples from his pre-cubist Blue and
masters of art. Because when first Pink periods, the cultural costume
invited, you make the direct link that depictions from Le Tricorne, and an
‘Picasso, Miró … of course they are at assortment of his then-new adventure
the world’s tallest building’; it makes into ceramics, from which sprang
headlines, and there is a natural aura pieces such as the Bearded Man’s Wife
to the overall location that can shoulder pitcher. Meanwhile, 25 boards from
such a monumental cultural occasion. Miró’s curling, looping, 1966 Ubu roi
Then… you are directed to The Annex, capture the attention with as equal
and while it is presentably decorated force as his Le Lezard aux plumes d’or
in striking red and black, you’re coloured lithography, and there is his
very aware that this isn’t a polished, bold, etched Le Marteau sans maitre

34
35
AIR

36
Opener: Le Marteau sans
maître, Joan Miró
Previous pages:
Harlequin with guitar,
Pablo Picasso
These pages, from left:
Woman Sitting; Woman
on a yellow sofa, Picasso

present too. Visual complexity from need aesthetics, you need art, and we
both artists sit alongside pieces like wanted to begin with this exhibition, to
Picasso’s graph synthesis faces, which inspire, in an inspirational place itself.”
are simpler… but, WAIT. ‘Simplicity’ is The other idea is that local designers
almost blasphemous, and makes Gaddi can relate to these two European
impassioned: “A common point levelled masters more than with, say, North
at certain pieces, when someone sees, European art-influences, such as
for instance, one of Picasso’s forty Gustav Klimt. “I think that the
Carmen engravings, is that they could Mediterranean landscape is similar
draw it themselves. And my response visually to that of the Middle East,
to them is that an idea is the essence, and Picasso and Miró are perhaps
and you have to have that idea first. ‘closer’ to local artists here. We have
It appears simplistic and easy, but to bought two accessible artists who can
replicate even precisely, would not get the conversation started, in what
possess the same power. Everyone has is a carefully curated and enriching
their own feelings, but not everyone experience,” Gaddi imparts.
can be an artist like Caravaggio, or a They have their differences and
poet like Leopardi: the artistic masters similarities, and upon one of the many
are able to fix their mind and express
a universal feeling. It is easier to say, Artistic masters
than to do.”
Returning to the question of why
are able to fix their
Dubai, and why this venue: well, one mind and express a
must look back to where Pablo and Joan
converged in their earlier years – the
universal feeling
French capital – to begin unravelling plaques at the exhibition, there is an
the mystery. Explains the curator, “At evocative descriptor that talks about
the beginning of the twentieth century, Picasso as ‘…a brilliant interpreter of
Paris was the centre of the world. Put the spirit and techniques of various
yourself in that time period, and events traditions of the past… a volcano in
in Paris had a seismic impact and constant eruption of creativity and
would dictate culture, science and the energy that fascinated and seduced
arts. Everything important happened the public.’ It says of Miró, ‘...his mind
there during those years, and so all was a universe in constant movement
artists felt compelled to be there, they due to the proliferation of ideas and
had to be there. And as important as forms… creating a new and personal
Paris was to the world during that era, language every time the artist engaged
from certain points of view, Dubai is with a new subject, a new technique,
now.” While it might not be displayed a new image.’ While at this exhibition
in a museum, the artwork is housed in one can see the soul of these pure, deep
an appropriate location, symbolically. and genial artists in Dubai, perhaps
“Dubai has made huge technological ambitious Dubai can also see itself,
and architectural steps in such a short within them.
period of time, and the Burj Khalifa is a Picasso and Miró, Passion and Poetry,
landmark of that vision. So we thought, is an exhibition orchestrated by
‘why can’t we put art right into Dubai’s Alpha Soul, and shows at The Annex,
heart?’ Because to continue developing Burj Khalifa, until May 17. For more
scientifically and architecturally, you information, visit picassomiro.ae

37
Timepieces
April 2016 : ISSUE 59

Forty Years
Of Fame
TARIQ MALIk

I
t was 1976, during the annual an electric blue lustre, enhancing the
Basel watchmaker’s fair, that a embossing and making the design
man sat at a table in Switzerland even more eye-catching. The case
opposite a group of watchmakers back was also upgraded to sapphire,
from Patek Philippe, who were sitting to make the movement visible.
in the corner of the same restaurant. Today, the latest 5711 is available
The man was Gerald Genta. It must directly from Patek Philippe,
be said that new watchmakers study and houses the Caliber 324 S C
and admire Genta’s work the way new Mechanical self-winding movement.
students of fine art admire Picasso. The watch is a comfortable size,
Genta asked the waiter for a slip of 40mm: it’s a sporty, elegant watch,
paper and a pencil, and five minutes and stays true to the original
later he sent the concept sketch he marketing philosophy. It might be
had just drawn over to the corner one of the more ‘entry-level’ models
table. In that moment, the design for available from this prestigious brand,
Patek Philippe’s Nautilus was born. but that doesn’t mean there isn’t
You might recognise the moniker a waiting list. More often than not,
from Jules Verne’s dramatic novel they’re sold out the moment they
Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the become available.
Sea, where the infamous captain Patek also released a very limited
Nemo’s ship bore the same name. offset the brushed outer links. All version of this watch, the Nautilus
The watch was born under dramatic this is contrasted by the dark, deeply 5711/1P, which is made entirely from
circumstances too, so I think it is embossed black dial and white gold Platinum. The differences between
quite fitting. baton hour markers. It was a fairly the platinum and steel versions are
The 1970s was a nervous decade large watch for the times, measuring slight, with the dial of the latter being
for luxury watchmakers. The Quartz 42mm in width, and earned the a more vibrant blue, and with a tiny
crisis was underway, and ideas about nickname ‘Jumbo’. It was an iconic gem set in the case. The platinum
what made a fine wristwatch were Genta masterpiece. watch is also far heavier. They are
being revolutionised. Just four years It’s a design that has become highly very scarce, and if you can find them,
earlier, Genta had dreamt up another recognisable, and the specimens from they carry a price tag at least five
inspired design for one of Patek the 1970’s are the favourite of many times greater than the steel version.
Philippe’s strongest competitors – collectors. For example: a rare version Another noteworthy addition
the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which of the Nautilus with a white embossed to the Nautilus range is the 5990
despite the original skepticism, was dial from 1978 recently sold at Chronograph Travel Time, where even
setting a trend. Sotheby’s in Geneva for CHF250,000 the pushers for the chronograph
In 1976 Patek Philippe broke from (roughly the same amount in USD). function are cleverly disguised to
their highly complicated gold and 30 years after the first Nautilus, maintain the original shape. 2016
jewelled tradition and created the the reference 5711 was introduced. marks the 40th anniversary of the
Nautilus reference 3700. The steel The case of this watch was a little Nautilus, and it is a timepiece that
bezel was shaped like the portholes bigger (measuring 43mm) and the deserves its time in the spotlight.
of a transatlantic liner. Highly- construction was in three parts Discover Tariq’s co-founded vintage
polished centre links in the bracelet instead of two. The guilloche dial had boutique at momentum-dubai.com

39
Timepieces
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Liquid
Gold
Defying expectations, mechanics,
and even gravity itself: meet HYT,
the total non-conformists
of fine watchmaking
WORDS : CHRIS UJMA

B
efore you even get as far as dissecting their time, and create a huge element of surprise. A lot
AIR

timepieces, HYT – The Hydro Mechanical of people said it is, quite simply, impossible, and
Horologists – have a name that makes would never work. Did we struggle to harness the
your brain-cells work. One word at a time, you’re technology? Of course, that is to be expected when
certain you know what each means: ‘Hydro’, you are dealing with such advanced methods. But
that’s water or liquid; ‘Mechanical’, okay, got it; it is an important part of the story, to show that
‘Horologists’, watchmaking of course. Then your we prevailed.”
grey matter combines them as a meaningful When re-writing the rulebook on timepieces,
sentence: water… and mechanics… in a timepiece? what technology and facilities did they need to
And you feel your grasp on conventional logic develop? Well… “Just about everything. I’ll give
begin to melt. one example: our core idea was wanting to play
The confusion that reigns is natural, because with liquid inside the watch, and for this we
you rightfully assert that horologists have been needed two bellows, one for water, one for oil, and
actively avoiding the combination of liquid and of course the density is different. So we had to
mechanics – nemeses, diametrically-opposed – find a supplier able to manufacture the flexible yet
into such a confined space. But HYT set out with strong springs. Nobody in Switzerland was able to
the mission objective to shatter expectation and create such parts, because this was breaking new
truly innovate, and say of their watches, “Never ground. So we went to the USA, to a company who
since the water clocks of the pharaohs have the worked exclusively with NASA. The bellows you
laws of gravity been overcome to transpose this see in the watch? They come from a speed capsule
energy into a portable watch, uniting the worlds of in the Space Shuttle: no gimmick. These were
mechanics and liquid within a wristwatch.” engineers working for the aerospace industry,
One wonders what lit the spark, and made HYT with its own principles of mechanics, and then
think ‘the world needs this’; CEO Vincent Perriard suddenly these Swiss guys were coming to them,
is on-hand, to power us through the story. “We talking about making a watch!” The project, now
were very bored with the watch industry, because a juggernaut, was powerful enough to get even the
a lot of people claim to be innovative but really, most seasoned industry experts excited. “Each
they are not! Okay, in terms of design they watch is a team effort. We don’t outsource, so
are, but when it comes to the system and the sitting in the room at the initial stages of a new
movement, that proves more difficult, and seismic collection, around the table we have designers,
developments are less frequent. So the idea was chemists, engineers, and watchmakers, who
to exploit the paradox of using liquid to tell the collaborate. Ideas come from all directions.”

40
41
AIR

42
Water… and mechanics…
in a timepiece? Your grasp
on logic begins to melt

The technology they developed is stunning, inside: the micro dynamo, which is powered by
and impossible to understate (though the 85 components, the liquid system indicating the
collection names, mercifully, are easier for the hours, and the mechanical movement.
brain to grapple with). The H1 is the pioneer; Suffice to say, there is plenty within every
the gamechanger, which with its rhodiumed timepiece to keep the aficionado enthralled, even
bellows, an unstructured dial, fluid hours, with regard to the case materials. These have
screw-locked added lugs, and a 65-hour power included titanium gun metal in the H1 Velvet
reserve, won the innovation prize at the 2012 Gun, leaves of cigar polyepoxyde in the H1 Cigar,
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. For the H2, titanium black DLC and pink gold in the Skull
“We wanted to work with the crème de la crème of Maori and Red Eye models, and white gold in the
the watch industry: for example, we collaborated H2 Iceberg. “We are always out meeting clients,
with Dominique Renaud, concept watchmaker and know them well. What type of person buys
and an Audemars Piguet mastermind.” It led a HYT? They are all freaks about watches! They
to a timepiece that delivered the patented fluid love timepieces, and they are total extroverts who
mechanism in a new configuration, with its own want to be seen with the watch and show what
thermal indicator at nine o’clock to point out they have on their wrist: a HYT is a conversation
optimal operating temperature. The 62mm-long piece, and they want to talk about it, enthuse
H3 went linear, positioning the bellows at the about the technology and celebrate how the
top, in opposition, giving engineering teams an system works.”
unenviable challenge to create the caliber. In the Soon, these loyal champions of HYT tech may
limited edition Skull Collection you could boldly not only be waxing-lyrical about timepieces, but
‘look time right in the eyes’, with a shape-change also other commercial creations. The R&D arm
for the capillary glass tube, and skull design of company, Preciflex, is dedicated to taking the
that was such a major success for the company, fluidic capillary system and testing how it can
teaching them to extend the series in 2016. Finally be applied not only in the watchmaking context
is the H4, where the self-generation of light was but also in the medical, automotive, and design
introduced using a micro dynamo system that sectors – you can only wonder what will emerge
gives a short shot of electricity to illuminate next. One thing is for sure: uncharted waters are
the watch. There are three complex movements where this brand feels most at home.

43
THE PR
60 years ago this month, Hollywood screen siren
Grace Kelly married Monaco’s Prince Rainier, the
defining chapter in her fairytale story.
AIR

B R
INCESS
Although the story would come to a devastating end at
the all-too-young age of 52, her legacy lives on.
AIR reveals the private life of this very public woman

WORDS : HAZEL PLUSH

D E
AIR

46
When I
“I
don’t know how to explain,” frenzy – began when Prince Rainer
says Grace Kelly, her eyes III came to America. There were
first arrived in cast low behind a tangle glamorous dinners, glitzy photo calls,
Monaco I was of microphones. “Taking the step of
marriage is enough to give a girl a bit
Hollywood engagements – and then a
real engagement, with a USD2 million
very nervous of a twist – and leaving home is…” she dowry provided by Kelly’s father. She
and rather falters, “a very moving thing.” A smile
dances on her lips, but as Kelly looks
would travel to Monaco and become
Rainer’s princess, the joint ruler of this
intimidated around at the pack of reporters her European microstate.
body language speaks more than she Kelly set sail from New York to
ever could. Even in this black and white Monaco onboard the SS Constitution
footage, it’s clear that she’s nervous. with her family, bridesmaids, poodle,
It’s almost her wedding day, and like over eighty pieces of luggage, and a
every bride she’s caught between two clutch of reporters. It was from the
worlds – except that her fairytale story Constitution that she held that nervous
is headline news. press conference – her last interview as
It’s April 4, and the year is 1956. a single woman.
Kelly is no stranger to the media She had left Hollywood behind, but
melee. She’s a seasoned movie star, an Kelly’s wedding had all the razzle
award-winning actress at the top of dazzle of the silver screen. The acting
her glamorous game. She has starred world’s own royalty were amongst the
alongside Bing Crosby, Cary Grant, 600-strong party: Cary Grant, David
William Holden and Co. Last year she Niven, Gloria Swanson, Ava Gardner
scooped an Oscar for her role in A and many more.
Country Girl. So why the nerves? She’s Her dress, the work of MGM’s
about to embark on the biggest role Academy Award-winning costume
of her life. In two weeks time, she’ll designer Helen Rose, took 36
become Princess Grace of Monaco. seamstresses six weeks to make. The
One of the journalists offers her a materials included “twenty-five yards
sip of water. “Miss Kelly, how is your of silk taffeta, one hundred yards of silk
French?” someone calls. “Comme ci, net, peau de soie, tulle and 125-year-
comme ça”, she replies with a small old Brussels rose point lace,” revealed
smile and a shrug. So so. There is no Kristina Haugland in Grace Kelly:
trace of Hollywood shine: right now, Icon of Style to Royal Bride. With
she’s just a girl. its button-up collar, ornate bodice
When Prince Rainier III of Monaco and long lace sleeves, the dress was
visited the USA in 1955, there were demure yet dazzling. It became one of
rumours that he was looking for a wife. the most iconic wedding dresses of all
The Principality of Monaco – a tiny time – indeed, the gown of England’s
city-state on the French Riviera – was Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, was
fast becoming a powerful tax haven and reportedly influenced by its design.
tourist destination, but its ruler needed Kelly’s family and friends returned
a leading lady. One who could dazzle to America after the wedding – but
the visiting heads of state, business she remained in Europe. And of course
executives and celebrities. she could never return to acting: now,
The pair’s paths had crossed at her duty was to her adopted home.
Cannes Film Festival, but their To some onlookers, Kelly had simply
whirlwind romance – and the media swapped her Hollywood career for a

47
more secure, comfortable role. Alfred
Hitchcock – her former mentor,
my other activities.” Prince Albert was
born the following year, and a second
Kelly wasn’t
director and life-long friend – quipped daughter, Stéphanie, in 1965. simply signing
that he was “very happy that Grace has
found herself such a good part”.
The Princess immersed herself in
philanthropy, setting up charitable
up for a cosier
The Princess adapted to her new foundations for the local arts and alternative to
duties with poise – but all was not what
it seemed. She finally opened up about
underprivileged children. She nurtured
Monaco’s cultural heritage, and
Hollywood
those early years in 1982, in an ABC donated thousands of dollars to up-
20/20 interview. “When I first arrived and-coming theatre, film and dance
in Monaco there were some problems artists in America. Hitchcock asked her
in adapting,” she admits to Pierre to appear in his film Marnie, but she
Salinger in the television report. “I was declined. Her sought-after loyalty lay
very nervous and rather intimidated”. with her subjects.
Sitting in her garden in Monaco, she The ABC report was the Princess’s
exudes confidence and serenity. Her first candid interview in decades – but
gaze is now steady, her smile strong it was also her last. In 1983 she suffered
AIR

– she’s as classy and conservative as a stroke at the wheel of her Rover P6


the long string of pearls around her 3500 while driving back from the
neck. “When we returned from our family’s country home with Stéphanie.
honeymoon, Sir Winston Churchill She lost control, and the vehicle
was the guest of honour at the first plunged down a 120ft mountainside,
official luncheon we had here in the leaving both mother and daughter
palace,” she recalls. “I was very nervous in a critical condition. Stéphanie
sitting next to this page of history. But eventually recovered, but Princess
he was kind and sweet. We became Grace of Monaco died the night after
great friends, and he often came to the the accident.
principality for his holidays. We would She was mourned on both sides of the
try to get the latest films for him to see.” Atlantic, and Rainer never remarried.
The Princess became Europe’s best- He was buried next to her after his
dressed monarch – hailed for her tiny death in 2005.
frame and discerning eye for designers To some, Grace Kelly was governed by
– and she was rarely photographed her duties to her family, her husband,
without her beloved Hermès Sac à to Monaco – but she was much stronger
dépêches. The handbag became such than she could ever reveal. “Women
a staple that the style was dubbed the should have the right to work and
‘Kelly’ – a name that lives on – but in a choose the profession that they would
few months’ time the bag’s true purpose like to do,” she tells Salinger in that
became clear. The princess was using final interview. “Very often I think the
it to shrewdly hide her first pregnancy price of independence and freedom is
from the media. solitude and loneliness.”
The arrival of Princess Catherine In accepting her ultimate – and
in 1957 brought stability to the royal perhaps most challenging – role, Kelly
household. “With the birth of our wasn’t simply signing up for a cosier
first child I began to feel at home,” alternative to Hollywood. She was
the Princess tells Salinger in the 1982 dedicating her life to seeking a richer
interview. “My main function is being and more fulfilling future – for her
a wife and mother; after that comes all family, her husband, and Monaco itself.

48
49
PRINCIPLE
AIR

To commemorate Frank Abagnale’s birthday


on April 27, the security consultant speaks
exclusively with AIR about how he successfully
conned millions of dollars’ worth of cheques,
and how he turned his life around

WORDS : ANNIE DARLING

50
51
AIR

52
T
he year is 1964. The place? Abagnale obtained a Pan American
New York City. A bustling Airlines pilot uniform, forged a fake
metropolis: a chaotic concrete airline ID, and began an unprecedented
jungle, creaking at the seams. This five-year crime spree. “One day I was
is where Frank Abagnale Jr. found walking down the street when I saw
himself, broke and struggling to an airline crew come out of a hotel. People read my
survive – a runaway teen quickly
running out of options.
It suddenly occurred to me that if I
had that uniform, I’d be able to cash
story... and assume
The third of four children; Abagnale, my cheques easier. By this time, some that this was a very
whose real-life story was depicted in
the 2002 film Catch Me If You Can, was
banks had refused me because I didn’t
have an account with them. This was
glamorous time in
born on April 27, 1948. “Everything before ATMs and debit cards and I my life, but it wasn’t.
was great until my mother and father
announced that they were getting a
thought: ‘If I make up a story that I’m
flying out of town and need some cash,
I was very lonely
divorce,” he reveals. Overcome with this’ll be a lot easier.’”
fear and unable to decide which parent After acquiring a pilot’s uniform, asked any questions.” While legally a
to live with permanently, he ran away he started visiting airports to avoid minor, he created several identities,
from home. He never saw his father suspicion. “I didn’t want people which he used to travel to 26 countries,
again, and didn’t see his mother bumping into me thinking, who on frequenting London and Paris. “People
for several years. “I found myself earth is that pilot?” He asked a flight read my story or watch the movie and
in the middle of New York City,” he attendant on a date and on their way to assume that this was a very glamorous
remembers. “I was 16-years-old and dinner, she told him that airline staff time in my life, but it wasn’t. I was very
I realised that the only way I could were able to collect their day’s earnings lonely. I couldn’t confide in anybody.”
survive was if I convinced people that I from deposit boxes located in each While Abagnale was jetsetting all
was older than I actually was.” airline terminal, eliminating the risk of over the world, there was a sudden
Abagnale, who describes his banks altogether. “Well, that was well epidemic of middle class youth who ran
teenage self as “very creative and very worth the dinner I bought her because away from home during the ‘hippie’
observant”, altered his driver’s license afterwards I hit up every airline in that era of the 1960s and early 1970s. His
to make himself ten years older; a airport,” Abagnale chuckles. “Before parents weren’t worried, he explains.
strategy aided by his intellect and long, I started to meet a lot of these “I would send them plenty of postcards
prematurely greying hair. But before flight attendants and they’d ask me if from all over Europe. I told them I was
long, Abagnale burned through what I wanted to ride the jump seat on their hitchhiking and living in youth hostels.
little money his father had saved for aircraft. I realised that I could ride on I’d never include a return address, so
him in a chequing account he’d opened planes for free – without having to fly – they had no way to write me back, but
a few years before. “I quickly ran out and that I could stay in all these hotels, I wanted them to know I was fine. I
of money,” he recalls. “So I started to which they’d bill to the airline.” didn’t want them thinking I was dead in
write cheques and cash them myself; By the time he was 21-years-old, a gutter somewhere.”
each were for around ten or 20 dollars. he flew an estimated one million Abagnale did come clean once about
“Being a young kid, I justified my miles on commercial aircraft in the his true identity to an American
behaviour by telling myself that I was cockpit jump seat. “Everything I did, Airlines stewardess. “She asked me
taking money from a big bank. Surely I learned as I went along. It was never to come out to California and meet
a big bank wasn’t going to miss ten premeditated. I never dreamed about her parents. I did and realised she
dollars. That’s the reason why I got staying in luxury hotels or flying was getting pretty serious about me.”
away with so many things,” he explains. around the world. At that time, it was During the visit, Abagnale revealed that
“When I look back on that time in all about getting my hands on that he was a teenager who’d ran away from
my life, everything I did, I fell into. uniform to see if it made a difference home and had been forging cheques.
Originally, I never dreamed of being a when it came to cashing cheques. And “She got very upset,” he remembers,
pilot, or a doctor, or a lawyer.” Even so, it did, it was wonderful. I was shocked “but told me it was okay and that we
that’s what he became. by the power of that uniform, nobody should head back to her parents’ house.

53
I’m an opportunist
and this was a way
for me to get out of
prison

I told her to go ahead of me and that I this supposedly hardened criminal escaped once more, after persuading
needed some time to myself. was a young runaway. Abagnale was guards that he was actually an
“Afterwards, when I cycled down her eventually hunted down and arrested undercover prison inspector. “I ended
street, I could see all these police cars in France in 1969, aged 21-years-old, up getting more time for that,” he
outside her house. I took off. I told on an Interpol warrant from Sweden. says. “I originally had ten years for the
myself right then that I couldn’t trust Despite their troubled history, after forged cheques, and an additional two
anybody. I told myself that this woman Abagnale’s arrest Shea became a years were added to my sentence for
only liked me because she thought I “mentor and father figure” to Abagnale, escaping federal prison.”
was a pilot. In retrospect, that was who later dedicated one of several Four years later, aged 26-years-old,
me thinking as an adolescent. As I books to him. the American government offered to
grew older – I actually got to meet her “I wasn’t surprised when they caught release him on the condition he worked
again years later – I realised that she me,” comments Abagnale, on what he for the FBI for the remainder of his
was an adult and had done the right, considers to be an “inevitable” arrest. sentence. “When I came out of prison,
responsible thing.” “An Air France stewardess who was people assumed I was rehabilitated but
After seeing wanted posters of himself on vacation saw me get out of my I never thought of myself as a changed
around airport cabin crew lounges, car and walk into a little vegetable person. I’m an opportunist and this was
Abagnale stopped cashing fraudulent market. She recognised me from all a way for me to get out of prison.”
cheques and moved to Atlanta, passing the wanted posters and wrote down my It wasn’t until he met his wife, while
himself off as a retired pediatrician. license plate number.” Abagnale was working undercover in Texas in 1975,
AIR

“I knew that I couldn’t keep doing convicted of forging USD2.5 million in that he became a reformed character.
what I was doing,” he readily admits, cheques, all of which he has since paid They have “three wonderful sons,
“and I already had a lot of money, so I back. “Most of the money was actually one of whom is an FBI agent” and
didn’t actually need to do it anymore.” recovered,” he explains. “I was just a will celebrate their 40th wedding
Nevertheless, this realisation didn’t kid. I didn’t know how to spend that anniversary later this year. “Becoming
stop him from taking a temporary chief kind of money. They found about USD2 a husband and a father made me realise
administrative role at a local hospital million in safety deposit boxes.” the importance of family. That’s what
for a couple of weeks, with nobody the After serving time in France and changed my life. Also the FBI,” he
wiser. “At first I said no,” he laughs. “But Sweden, he was sentenced to ten years concedes, with a grin. “Their character,
I’m not the type of person who likes to in US Federal prison. However, not as well as their love of country. It
pass up a challenge! I thought to myself, before he escaped custody on the flight eventually wore onto me.”
‘let’s see if I can really pull this off!’” back to America. “The last thing on Today, at 68-years-old, he’s one of the
He also posed as an attorney in my mind was to escape,” he insists. world’s most respected authorities on
Louisiana, where he worked for the “I got on the plane but as we started forgery and embezzlement. Abagnale’s
State Attorney General after passing to approach New York – I’ll be honest been associated with the FBI for nearly
the state’s bar exam. During this time, with you – I started to get really, 40 years and lectures extensively at the
he was relentlessly chased by a number very scared. I’d had a horrible time FBI Academy and FBI field offices. More
of FBI agents, most notably special in France and I was petrified about than 14,000 financial institutions,
agent Joseph G. Shea. “For the first having to go to prison again.” corporations and law enforcement
couple of years he [Shea] thought I was After the plane landed, Abagnale was agencies use his fraud prevention
an adult,” explains Abagnale. “What briefly left alone in the aircraft, during programmes and over the past 31
made him suspicious was that they had which time he dismantled the chute in years, he’s worked with 65 per cent
no record of my fingerprints, which I the kitchen galley, sliding down onto of America’s Fortune 500 companies.
left everywhere I went. They knew I the runway. “I ran across the tarmac, “Looking back on my life, I’m not
was American and this was back during jumped over the fence and took off as amazed by the things I did when I was
the draft. He found it strange I wasn’t quick as I could!” a teenage boy. What’s amazing to me
registered anywhere.” Another time, once recaptured is that I did all those things and still
It was only until Abagnale started and imprisoned, a US Marshal who managed to get to where I am today,”
using the name Barry Allen, which had forgotten his prisoner’s papers he smiles. “Anyone can change. If you
was the same alias as DC Comics’ The transported him to a detention facility. really want to, and you have to really
Flash, that Shea began suspecting Seizing the opportunity, Abagnale want to, you can change your life.”

54
55
AIR

56

THE
WORLD
NEEDS
HIM
”During a heartfelt interview,
Muhammad Ali’s wife Lonnie reveals
more about the man known the world
over as The Greatest
WORDS : Matthew Syed

57
GR
M
uhammad Ali has for a long time a 22-year-old about to challenge the fearsome
been a journalistic obsession. My Sonny Liston for the heavyweight championship.
father revered him, I watched all his She lived on the opposite side of the street to
bouts on tape as a teenager and by the time I Ali’s parents, in a close-knit neighbourhood of
arrived at Oxford I threw myself into studying Louisville, Kentucky. Lonnie remembers the
his wider significance. Civil rights, Vietnam, moment vividly. “There are certain things that
racial awakening: Ali was an animating figure stick in your mind. I came home and noticed my
throughout what David Remnick, editor of The mother looking out the front door, across the
New Yorker, called the ‘sixties phantasmagoria’. street. My sister was looking out the curtains
I was not an uncritical fan. I recognised the too. I asked: ‘What are you looking at?’ They
contradictions. A man who preached monogamy said: ‘That’s Cassius Clay!’“All the boys in the
while living a life of promiscuity; a campaigner neighbourhood, every last one, was in front of his
for black rights who once shared a stage with the mother’s house. He was sitting on the front steps,
Klan; a man who eulogised peace but punched like the Pied Piper. It was like he was magnetic.
people for a living. His vindictive demolition of He saw me from a distance and asked me to come
Floyd Patterson will never be forgotten by those over. I was painfully shy, but he pulled me over. I
who watched it, Ali barking “what’s my name” as didn’t know the pictures of that meeting existed
each jab bored into the visage of his hopelessly until two years ago when I caught up with the
outmatched opponent. photographer. I remember exactly what he had
I have spent much of my career trying to on: bow tie, black pants, white shirt, black socks,
deconstruct his legacy, writing a column every black shoes.”
month or two. I have long been on the verge Over the years, they would meet whenever
of writing a book but have always hesitated. Ali was back to visit his parents and their

TE
Despite reading every article and watching every friendship blossomed. “He was like my mentor,
interview, I felt as if I had never penetrated my big brother,” she says. “He was always a big
to the true Ali. Where does the man end and influence on my life, telling me what to aspire to,
the myth begin? Since his retirement, Ali has what school to go to. He was the biggest, most
been positioned as a secular saint. A man who extraordinary human being. I remember when he
wants “love and tolerance”. The Muhammad Ali brought his first wife, Sonji, to the neighbourhood,
AIR

Center in Kentucky is all about the principles who was so much fun. A few years later, he came
of humanity, but what about the controversial, with Belinda, his second wife, and I couldn’t
divisive figure who catapulted into the world’s understand it at first. I didn’t understand the
consciousness in the sixties; who took on the idea of divorce. I kept saying: ‘Where’s Sonji’? “It
establishment; who loved throwing bombs into wasn’t until I was 17 that I had a premonition that
polite sensibilities? The Nation, which he joined as I would marry Muhammad. Not then, not any
a young man, believed that whites were “blue-eyed time soon, but at some stage we would be together,
devils”, argued against interracial marriage and and we would die together.” When Ali became ill
called for a separate homeland for blacks within with Parkinson’s disease, Lonnie volunteered to
the borders of the United States. And they were look after him, and when his third marriage to
prepared to engage in armed insurrection to get it. the model Veronica Porsche hit the rocks, they
I never got the chance to meet Ali, despite became romantically involved, marrying in 1986.
years of trying. When he came to Blackwell’s Davis Miller, Ali’s biographer and one of his
in Oxford in 1992 for a book signing, moments closest friends, who is also with us, says: “If you
from my student digs, I was at an Olympic table really want to understand Muhammad, let me tell
tennis qualification tournament in Italy. When you about a time when I went to a book signing for
he visited the Olympic Village in Sydney in 2000, his friend, Howard Bingham. It was the summer
I had a match to play (I arrived back moments of ’93, so he’d had Parkinson’s for some time. As
after he had left). Every time I have requested always during a book signing, he was the last
an interview, I have been knocked back on the person to leave. They want him to stay two hours,
grounds of Ali’s ill health. It remains one of my he will stay for three. He kisses babies, holds
keenest ambitions. children to his chest. That is his nature.
Yet last month I got the next best thing: I spent “On the way back, we are driving along and
a revelatory, tear-filled morning with the person he sees some homeless people on the corner.
who has been with him for more than five decades, He asks Howard to pull over and starts walking
who has shared a bed with him for more than along, raises his hands and says: ‘You look like
three of those, who has cared for him since the Joe Frazier.’ He approaches them, with this mock
moment he descended into Parkinson’s and that serious face, and starts tossing punches. And
beautiful face became a mask: Lonnie, his fourth he is hanging out, jiving, playing. You start with
wife. More than anyone, she knows the real three people and they morph into 50, 100. Then
Ali. They met when Lonnie was six and he was he pulls out his wallet, and gives them his money.

58
EA
‘No liquor,’ he says. ‘This is for food.’ When he
runs out of money, he says to them: ‘Stay here.’ We
then rode to the closest ATM so he could get more
money to hand out. That is Muhammad Ali.”
Lonnie smiles through tears as she listens to
the story. “I have seen that a thousand times. He
is so generous, so giving,” she says. “I have seen
him empty his wallet for homeless people, and he
didn’t have anything like as much money as people
thought. A lot of people have taken advantage of
him but he doesn’t mind. They sometimes say:
‘Don’t meet your heroes because you will see the
blemishes.’ With Muhammad I have learnt more
with every passing year about how big-hearted he
is. Even today, he wants to give back.”
Does he regret joining the Nation, I wonder?
Was he manipulated into signing up with an
extremist cult? “Oh no, he believed in the Nation
and had huge respect for Elijah Muhammad [its
leader],” Lonnie says. “But you have to understand
the context. He went to a segregated school. His It wasn’t until I
dad grew up in an even more segregated area.
And then there was Emmett Till, which weighed
was 17 that I had
a premonition that

ST
heavily on Muhammad’s mind.” Till was a 14-year-
old from Chicago who was murdered by white
men for wolf-whistling at a white shop assistant
I would marry
while visiting an uncle in Mississippi in 1955. Ali Muhammad
was about the same age as Till at the time and the
youngster was brought to tears when reading of join the civil rights movement, which preached
how Till’s body had been mutilated, with an eye reconciliation. He wanted some sort of revenge
gouged from its socket. The two men charged with or, at the very least, separation from what he saw
murder were acquitted by an all-white jury in 67 as his oppressors. His willingness to speak at a
minutes. “If we hadn’t stopped to drink pop, it meeting of the Klan was not out of ideological
wouldn’t have taken that long,” one juror said. Ali sympathy but practical reality. The Klan was
wrote a school project on the subject. one of the only other organisations that believed
“Young black men were angry,” says Lonnie. that blacks should live separately to whites.
“When Muhammad lived in Miami, he couldn’t They reached the same conclusion from opposite
stay on the beach. He had to stay in Overtown. ideological perspectives.
He would run down the causeway to get to the How is Ali’s life today? “He does have advanced
gym... He attended his first meeting of the Nation Parkinson’s disease, so he is challenged,” says
when he was in his teens. You know, the group Lonnie, “but he still is a positive person. We try
had nothing to do with Islam; it is more of a social to keep him engaged and connected to people,
philosophy. By the late seventies, he realised that especially his family. The nature of the illness
their beliefs were wrong. He became a moderate, is that you become apathetic. The thing he
mainstream Muslim. It was no good hating. The loves most is watching himself on YouTube. He
only answer was forgiveness . . . Muhammad, like becomes so intense. It’s as if he hasn’t ever seen
most people who go through life, has evolved.” it before. He watches the Parkinson interviews. I
From this perspective, the Nation of the 1960s remember in Michigan one time, he was watching
seems less like a militant threat and more like the himself, and said: ‘I was crazy, wasn’t I?’ I said:
vigilante response of a downtrodden minority, ‘Yes!’ He loves watching the fights with Frazier,
almost like a cry for help. The Nation claimed too. He used to do these doodles of himself in a
that whites were congenitally evil, having been boxing ring. The only opponent he ever put in the
bred in test tubes by a malign scientist, and ring with him was Frazier.” (Perhaps there is an
that blacks would be saved from the apocalypse element of guilt: Ali regularly insulted Frazier to
by a wheel-shaped spaceship. This ramshackle sell their fights.)
ideology channelled and, in some grotesque Lonnie has brought Ali to life like never before:
sense, rationalised the anger of young men like his character, his majesty, his contradictions.
Ali, outraged by the horrors of slavery and the I find myself more moved, and even more
indignities of Jim Crow. Perhaps, then, it is captivated, by this singular man, who from
not surprising that this proud youngster didn’t humble beginnings played such a crucial role

59
AIR

60
61
Where does the
man end and the
myth begin?
Gastronomy
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

The divisive
incarnation of Ali in
the sixties smoothed
the passage of
the integrationist
project
in shaping late twentieth-century American
AIR

consciousness. I realise something else too. In


1964, a pivotal time in the civil rights movement,
Martin Luther King visited President Johnson
and told him that if he did not end apartheid in
the south, more young black people would be
driven into the hands of the Nation and other
extremist groups. These groups were tiny in
numbers but the young Ali had given them huge
prominence. Johnson got the point, strengthening
the legislation against objections from within his
own party. In this sense, the divisive incarnation
of Ali in the sixties smoothed the passage of the
integrationist project that his later self would
come to fully embrace. This is, perhaps, his
defining irony.
What would he be doing now if he hadn’t
descended into Parkinson’s? “There are many
times today that I wish his voice was stronger,”
says Lonnie. “The world needs him. Islam needs
him. These young people, these jihadists, are so
misguided. He wouldn’t have been a politician. If
he was President, the White House would be open
to the public and he would give everything away.
But he would be doing more travelling, trying
to build bridges. That ability to stand up and
say things. That person is still in his belly... The
tragedy is that his illness means that the world
can’t see it.”
I Am The Greatest: Muhammad Ali, at the O2,
London, runs until August 31. aliattheo2.com

64
BEHIND
Jimmy Ellis, a country
boy from Alabama, was
cursed with having a
voice identical to that of
Elvis Presley

THE

MASK
WORDS : ANNIE DARLING
AIR

A
dirt-splattered white 1962 America to river-bound cities of gothic
Chevrolet stumbles down plantations and hardscrabble farmland.
Alabama’s smouldering Jones drives, while Ellis lounges
country roads, spewing dusty sunbaked coolly in the passenger seat, feet up on
rock in its wake. Bouncing over sizzling the dashboard. He strums his guitar
gravel, a then-teenage Jimmy Ellis and and belts out gospel. Sometimes, they’d
his cousin, Lee Jones, embark on their sing together. “When you walk through
daily commute. The wearisome drive a storm, hold your head up high”, is a
takes the pair 275 miles from their regular lyric they’d cheerfully chant,
hometown of Orrville in Dallas County “and don’t be afraid of the dark.”
to Georgia, where they go to school. A Alabama has music deep within its
cultural labyrinth through geographic soul. It breeds music-lovers who spend
extremes: from ‘60s small-town their lives losing themselves in the

66
67
enslaving throb of country blues. Ellis campaign implied to an excitable and including singer-songwriter Jerry Lee
was no exception. “Although we lived desperate public that Orion’s mask Lewis who performed for the town’s
ten miles from each other, I used to was worn to conceal botched plastic awestruck residents.
spend the night at his house before surgery. It further suggested that Orion “We tried our best to keep up with
school,” reminiscences Jones with a was, in fact, Elvis, who had faked his him,” laughs Jones, “but when he went
thick southern drawl. “When I woke up, own death to escape the burden of out to California we didn’t see him a
he’d come running in with his vinyl 45 international celebrity. whole lot. He left the area and became
records and he’d start listening to Elvis Orion more or less spawned the Elvis- Orion. Of course, we heard the Elvis
Presley. He just loved music.” is-alive fruitcake conspiracy theories rumours and all that kind of thing, but
But Ellis wasn’t just a fan of Elvis; that persevere to this day, while Ellis we were never really sure of anything.
he was both blessed and cursed with became confined to Elvis’ ghost. The One thing’s for certain, he sure spent
having a voice identical to that of The recent documentary Orion: The Man a whole lotta money to get to where he
King. “He sounded just like him,” says Who Could Be King sheds light on how thought he wanted to be and, well… it
Jones, “and that wasn’t all he was good Ellis was haunted by the realisation never quite worked out.”
at.” Jones claims Ellis, as their high that he would never be recognised for On December 12, 1998, Ellis was
school’s quarterback, had some of the himself. “When Jimmy’s promoters murdered in his Alabama pawnshop
fastest feet in the state, as well as being tried to make it out like Elvis hadn’t during a robbery. He’d returned to the
an excellent baseball and basketball died and that he’d come back as Orion area after spontaneously ripping off
player. “He loved and lived life to the we were shocked,” says Jones. “Jimmy his mask while performing as Orion
fullest,” he fondly recalls. “The ladies had always sounded like Elvis, but we in front of a sell-out audience in 1983.
sure loved him,” he laughs. knew that he really wanted to stand “He didn’t go back out to California
Despite his undeniable musical talent, on his own. The problem was his after he’d finished with Orion, although
Ellis remained in Alabama for several promoters wanted him to sound and he did sing around here for a while
years after college, spending his days sing like Elvis to encourage people to afterwards. Then he had this terrible
training Tennessee walking horses on come and see him. That wasn’t what he
his family’s farm, including three world was about. He was trapped, really.” Blessed and
grand champions. He was “caught in
the middle”, explains Jones, in that he
The peculiar similarities between
Elvis and Ellis didn’t stop with their
cursed with having
desperately “wanted to pursue a music distinctive voices – both had mothers a voice identical to
AIR

career but felt he needed to support


his family as a talented horseman
named Gladys, although Ellis was
put up for adoption when he was two.
that of The King
and farmer.” Eventually Ellis hired a “When he was adopted and came to thing happen to him,” says Jones. “It
manager, choreographer and stylist to Orrville, Jimmy was six years old,” was really very tragic what happened to
help him break into the music business, remembers Jones. Commenting on Jimmy.” Ellis’ music was played at his
but found that his eerie resemblance to rumours that Ellis could’ve been Elvis’ funeral at which Jones was an honorary
his idol made him obsolete. After all, younger brother and the illegitimate pallbearer. “He was a very talented
the world already had an Elvis. son of Vernon Presley, Jones insists person; very talented. He could do
“Everybody thought he didn’t have that he “doesn’t know anything about an awful lot of things. He was a fine
much of a chance. We all thought that”. According to Orion: The Man horseman, an incredible sportsman and
that he wouldn’t go too far. Where we Who Could Be King, Ellis’ birth also a great welder. It just turned out
were from – out in the country – a lot certificate states that his father was that he was also a great singer.”
of people were trying to make it. But named Vernon, but that a surname Ellis wasn’t trying to be like Elvis.
having said that, Jimmy was the one wasn’t provided. The problem was that Elvis sounded
who had the talent. He was the one After Ellis’ career took off, he just like him. After The King’s death,
who could’ve made it.” Ellis eventually didn’t return to Alabama for several an opportunity came knocking. Anyone
travelled to Tennessee and California. years. Swept up in the wonderfully who scrutinised Orion – as Ellis was
“He said those days were hard,” admits weird whirlwind that was rock ‘n’ contractually obligated to call himself
Jones. “He was now quite a bit older roll aprocrypha, Orion successfully – would realise he quite obviously
than most aspiring singers. He had a filled stadiums throughout the world, wasn’t the late singer, but fans wanted
hard time, but music was his passion.” released nine studio albums and toured to believe the masquerade, and Orion
Although Ellis had been recording Europe, including a stint in Germany played sold-out shows for years. Behind
since 1964, it was only after Elvis’ with Kiss. Jones recalls a barn party the mask, Ellis longed to be himself.
death, in August 1977, that he was given that was held in Orrville for Ellis’ He even released a single titled I’m
any real attention. Cunning record parents’ 50th wedding anniversary. Not Trying To Be Like Elvis. His fame
producer Shelby Singleton – owner of “He was doing really well around that proved to be significant, however it was
Sun Records – began marketing Ellis time and the party was on their family equally fleeting. Nonetheless, Jones
as a mysterious singer called Orion, farm. We cooked about 250 pounds affirms that Ellis continues to be a
who wore a glittery mask and costumes of meat for a barbeque that lasted much-loved and well-respected figure
that were extraordinarily similar to about a day and a half,” he laughs. in his community and that: “His legacy
Elvis’. This highly contentious publicity Several celebrities were in attendance, will live on a good while longer.”

68
69
Motoring
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

Where
No Bentley
AIR

Has Gone
Before
With luxury, power and amazing agility on
sand, is the Bentayga the first Bentley
tailor-made for the Middle East?
WORDS : CHRIS ANDERSON

70
71
I
am driving a Bentley through the wood and other touches inspired by the
desert, actually across the dunes, luxurious Mulsanne. A new flagship
and I’m having to pinch myself. store is planned for the near future,
Like any car you might expect from the making it no surprise that Bentley
brand, this is a sophisticated, hand- recently named the Middle East as one
built USD250,000 machine. And yet of its four key markets, up there with
here I am throwing it around, sending China, Europe and America.
huge waves of sand into the air, then With that it mind, venturing into
sliding up, over and down the slopes, the SUV market becomes a logical next
wondering why I’m doing this to such step rather than a risky proposition. If
an expensive vehicle. A representative the Bentley name is faring well in the
from Bentley is with me and he doesn’t Middle East, then a car that handles
seem to mind at all. In fact, he’s its deserts just as well as the roads is
pointing at the next incline, telling me bound to be a top seller. Clearly, it has
to go faster. to be a SUV that lives up to the brand’s
But if either I or my co-pilot has values, and that means something very
gone mad, thankfully the Bentayga is a different to those currently traversing
stroke of genius. This is Bentley’s new the dunes at weekends.
luxury SUV, built to the same standards To make it easy to get the most from
as any of its current fleet. Its sculpted it, four driving modes are included as
high-strength aluminium body sports standard: Sport, Comfort, Bentley (a
the familiar matrix grille and four balance between Sport and Comfort)
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floating headlights up front, while the and Custom, where owners can adjust
interior is full of hand-crafted wood, and create their own settings, tweaking
metal and leather. The ride height is the suspension accordingly. Middle
different to a regular Bentley, naturally, East drivers will most likely request
due to the intended off-road use, but a their models with the All Terrain
wealth of clever technology has been package, as this adds Snow & Grass,
included to help make that feat Dirt & Gravel, Mud & Trail, and Sand
a reality. Dunes. The model I am driving has
Powering over the dunes just outside this, and the adjustments from road to
of Palm Springs, California, for the sand are made easily at the turn of a
car’s official launch, the result is switch. All Terrain also increases the
more than capable, handling well and underbody protection and adds top-
inspiring confidence thanks to its all- view cameras, showing more of your
new twin-turbocharged 6.0-litre W12 surrounds on the in-dash screen.
engine. Packing 600hp, this 12-cylinder While the outside may be about
offering has no trouble pulling conquering rough terrain, inside the
the Bentayga over even the tallest Bentayga is all comfort. There is a long
slopes, and out on the road it delivers list of interior trim and colour options,
0-100km/h in 4.1 seconds and a top with other packages available to add
speed of 301km/h. This is a powerful even more technology, depending on
vehicle, and the potential recreation personal preference. Go for the lot, with
use even extends to the race track. a head-up display, lane assist or traffic
It must be the car the Middle East sign recognition, and you won’t have
has been waiting for. Bentley has much to think about or distract you at
always had a special connection with all, leaving you to concentrate on the
the region, and in Dubai, for example, it fun stuff.
has a strong and loyal following. There Navigation, a 60GB-hard drive
are currently two Bentley dealerships for music and front seats with 22
in the city, with the Marina branch points of adjustment, heating and six
featuring a café, while visitors to the massage settings, are enough to make
new St. Regis Dubai hotel can stay in passengers in the back jealous, but
a Bentley-themed suite, with leather, the Rear Seat Entertainment package

72
The Bentayga will stop that. This adds removable
10.2 inch Android tablets to the front
impresses from headrests, linked to 4G Wi-Fi, and
both a driving with the flip-down tray tables gives
an inflight feel. Three levels of sound
and aesthetic system can be requested too, with
viewpoint the Naim package being the most
impressive, featuring 18 speakers and
a 1,800W amplifier.
The options list continues with 17
exterior colours, a choice of 20, 21 and
22 inch wheels, and an opportunity for
owners to really indulge, purchasing
a Breitling Mulliner Tourbillon
dashboard clock in place of the
standard version. Costing USD160,000,
carved from a single piece of solid
rose or white gold and encrusted with
diamonds, you can also purchase the
matching wristwatch at USD175,000.
A USD250,000 car by itself needs
something extra, of course.
A three-piece Mulliner hamper
set, comprising three separate
compartments – with a fridge, a Linley
fine china and cutlery set, plus a storage
area for dry goods – is another way to
make the Bentayga stand out. Or opt
for the Mulliner styling package, with
diamond-quilted seats and doors, extra
seat embroidery and a custom filler cap.
It is an impressive offering, both from
a driving and aesthetic viewpoint, and
seems perfectly competent whatever
the terrain. Before driving on sand,
I tested the Bentayga on a dirt bike
track, and was amazed at the control it
demonstrated when pointing straight
down on steep inclines. The deserts
of Dubai could be explored in the
morning, followed by the mountains of
Fujairah in the afternoon.
While the appeal for the Middle East
is clear, Bentley is remaining cautious,
building just 5,000 Bentaygas in total
this year. It says there will be a smaller
V8-engined model, plus a diesel and a
hybrid at some point, and how many of
those end up in the Middle East will be
anyone’s guess. But the potential
is there to make it a large number. This
region is a unique hotspot for Bentley
sales and fandom, and thanks to the
Bentayga, long will it continue.

73
Gastronomy
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

The
Fair Lady
AIR

of Florence
Self-taught triple-Michelin
star winner Annie Féolde
is a legend in gastronomy
circles; it’s high-time her
culinary expertise made its
mark on the UAE

WORDS :CHRIS UJMA

74
75
I
n 1993, Annie Feolde was, must also try to improve, change, and
definitely, the first woman outside keep in step with the times.” Which is
her native France to possess the apt, because with the the opening of
coveted triple-Michelin crown. And her UAE-based venture The Artisan
she was, perhaps, the only winner who at Burj Daman, there was a cultural
was taken by surprise when awarded gap to bridge. The approach back in
the first of those stars. For hers is a Italy at the pioneering ‘EP’ eatery is,
story of absolute humility; of success “what is luxury, if not a feeling of being
not necessarily by design, but borne of received, accompanied and served
passion for a craft; so it stands that she like royalty?” The Artisan heralds a
must have been proud to receive the paradigm shift, not in terms of the
accolade? “We were very happy but no, quality of fare and service excellence
not proud, you must never be proud… – which are elements that will never
you are never good enough to be be compromised – but in the move
proud” she gently scolds, while giving away from ultra fine dining, in order
a vigorous stir to her piping hot cup of to smooth into the Dubai cuisine
espresso (with a touch of water). scene (they tactfully describe it as ‘an
The foundation of her success invitation to break free from the usual
lies within the Florence-based fine dining experience’).
AIR

restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri. It is Refined-casual is definitely achieved


an establishment that started, back here: the 120-seat restaurant is
in 1970, with her ambitious husband, welcoming and elegantly-designed,
Giorgio Pinchiorri, tantalising local with a painstakingly-produced and
tastebuds with a sensational cellar-full perfect Murano glass-feature taking
of enviable grape-vintages, (served, centre-stage, soft blue chairs that
unlike anywhere else at that time, by urge you to sink into them, and the
the glass). Annie’s impact was to enrich presence of Italian craftsmanship
the complex arrangement by creating abounds. Marble accents, imported
hors d’oeuvres to accompany the tasting cutlery and crockery; Flos, for example,
sessions. “We didn’t mean to have a is entrusted with illuminating the
restaurant – when we eventually began ambient and utterly relaxing dining
making food I started my cooking in space. Inviting hues help strike a chord
the corridor, and didn’t have any space. of comfort and welcome. Annie admits,
At first, when we opened, it was only to “Fine dining is a little bit out of fashion,
serve glasses of grape, which was a very as patrons want to be more relaxed,
interesting, unusual and new venture, and people frequent restaurants so
and people would get excited about many times that we cannot present a
tasting such wonderful drinks. But I very sophisticated environment which
realised the scene wasn’t complete. The feels like a museum, especially in
addition of food was important because Dubai. It doesn’t upset me, I think it
the marriage of cuisine and grape is important to seize the moment, and
Food photography: studioquagli.com

is delicate, and nearly impossible to here we can provide simple dining with
explain. So, no, I didn’t go seeking the amazing ingredients.”
Michelin rating, I was simply looking to Signature dishes at the restaurant will
complement the tasting experience in change with the seasons, as all produce
our restaurant.” and ingredients will be imported from
Her oft-quoted thought is, “We Italy itself. The restaurant will have
must always remember the culture of its own brand of Parmesan and olive
the place in which we find ourselves, oil, for example. “I would only open
because that’s our identity. But we this restaurant once I was sure I could

76
Soft blue chairs get the right produce, and you can get
everything here [in Dubai]; visiting
urge you to sink our luxury produce supplier, I was
into them, and the actually a little bit jealous, because the
things you can get here are incredible,”
presence of Italian she enthuses. On-opening, purveyors
craftsmanship of gourmet can look forward to a
line-up that includes Tuffoli con ragu
abounds di ossobuco di vitello (Tuffoli pasta
with cross-cut veal shank ragout
and parmesan fondue), Linguine alle
vongole veraci e pane alla bottarga
(linguini with clams, breadcrumbs
and cured Sardinian grey mullet roe),
and Scottadito di agnello marinate
(in Italian the word scottadito means
burned fingers, and this dish is so-
named because the lamb chops are so
delicious that you can’t resist eating
them sizzling hot). She shares, “The
blueprint is simple: I just want to make
people who may never have experienced
the finest examples of Italian
cooking to fall in love with this simple,
natural fare.” Also tasteworthy is the
line-up of wildly-creative artisanal
beverages, which are worth ordering if
only for the vessels they are served in.
For example, the refreshing Japanito
is poured from an oriental teapot, the
sweet French Mule fills a mason jar,
the flavours of Polynesian echo inside a
pearl shell, and aromatic Ionicis raises
a smile in its clever Chinese-takeway
inspired container.
Heading the kitchen on these shores
is her trusted protégé, Luca Tresoldi,
who has worked as Head Chef back in
Florence for five years. Pre-opening, the
restaurant was a hive of activity, with
cameos from characters that keep the
homes fires burning and the standards
high: when we visited, ‘fiery, Milanese
and passionate’ chef Riccardo Monco
is on-site alongside Luca, while master
sommelier and Cellar Director Ivano
Boso is deep in thought over complex
vintages and pairings, until signora
Feolde sweeps into the room and greets
those under her charge like close
friends, her smile and warmth readily
reciprocated. At this establishment
there are echoes of Florence, not only in
the design and cuisine, but through the
creative input that drives the Enoteca
Pinchiorri experience. Describing the
collective minds behind The Artisan as
‘like a family’ is certainly no cliché, and
now you needn’t travel all the way to
Italy to be welcomed into the fold.

77
Travel
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59

3
journeys by jet

Song Saa Private


Island, Cambodia

C
ambodia’s beautiful islands dwellings being the two-bed Royal
remain relatively untouched, Villa – it has its own private jetty for
the white sands which fringe your speedboat arrival and departure,
virgin rainforests and give way to and welcomes the resort’s chefs and
tropical reefs, glistening jewel-like spa therapists to tend to your needs
from where they lay dotted throughout in-villa. It would, however, be remiss
the Gulf of Thailand, awaiting not to venture out to sample the divine
discovery. It was to one such paradise dishes (fashioned from locally-sourced
that Australian couple Rory and Melita produce which includes just-caught
Hunter came to realise their ambition fish) at Vista Restaurant & Lounge
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of creating a sustainable sanctuary of Bar, spectacularly positioned over the


uncompromising luxury, a pair of side- ocean to take in dramatic sunsets,
by-side islands known locally as Song seascapes and starry nights. Then
Saa – the sweethearts. there’s the option of kayaking through
Four years on from its opening, fresh-water estuaries, hiking through
Song Saa Private Island has ensured virgin rainforest, or snorkeling with
that Cambodia’s name resonates with the resort’s marine biologists. Paradise,
travellers who pine for privacy in most definitely, found.
surrounds lovingly touched by Mother Access by jet sees you land at
Nature. Guests here will still be among Sihanoukville, from where you’ll
the first to experience this untouched, take a 30-minute speedboat transfer
unhurried world. onto Song Saa Private Island.
Comprising 27 villas in total, each Alternatively, you can land your jet
with a private pool, you can choose at Phnom Penh, and take a 90-minute
a jungle, beach or ocean setting for helicopter transfer to Sihanoukville,
your stay, with the pick of the secluded before boarding the speedboat.

78
79
What I Know Now
APRIL 2016 : ISSUE 59
AIR

Lita Cabellut
artist

I
was born in Barcelona in 1961, because I felt there was a ‘special light’ fragility and colourfulness of Nature,
but I first got engaged to art at in Holland, and I have lived and worked and the strength and determination of
the age of 12. Why? I visited the in the Netherlands ever since. The life. You can learn so much about life
beautiful Prado Museum. Seeing the place, its people, and its culture helped from art; I think every viewer should
majesty of Francisco Goya, Diego me develop my own artistic language, feel compelled to surrender and study
Velázquez and Hieronymus Bosch up and my signature technique (a fresco- the skin, the pores and the soul of the
close, I immediately knew that I would like craquelé surface) was inspired by piece in front of them.
become a painter. My adoptive family the notion that the soul of the artist lies
nurtured in me an essential belief that in the materials with which they work. In my own work there is a constant,
I had felt growing up as a street child in intense tension between society and
Barcelona: the recognition of the power I showed my series Color of Dew in the individual, in relation to life itself.
of art, as the power of living. Dubai, and it is an important collection Over time, I have recognised a deep
because it shows something I have and sincere love for the human being,
By 19, I had left Spain to study at the learnt over time which carries the embracing all of its aspects, be it bright
Rietveld Academy in the Netherlands, paintings: the balance between the or dark.

80
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