Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
JOHN COLLINS
Queens College and the CUNY Graduate Center
CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY, Vol. 23, Issue 2, pp. 279–328. ISSN 0886-7356, online ISSN 1548-1360. C 2008 by
the American Anthropological Association. All rights reserved. DOI: 10.1525/can.2008.23.2.279.
CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
and modernist planning in Salvador, is a different issue.6 And it is one tightly related
to the history of Brazilian nationalism, regional differentiation, and engagements
with colonial legacies.
Salvador has been portrayed for over a century as an African pole in the accounts
of tropical creativity and racial mixture that prop up modern Brazil. Its importance
to these myths is in great part a function of the struggles of its Afro-descendent
population and the ways nationalist thinkers have interpreted these practices in the
context of powerful narratives of interracial intimacy that continue to make Brazil
imperfectly, unequally, and exceptionally complete (Goldstein 2003; Guimarães
2002; Sheriff 2001).7 One such nationalist figure is Gilberto Freyre, Franz Boas’s
student, the scion of a planter family from the adjoining state of Pernambuco,
and author of The Masters and the Slaves (1986), Brazil’s most influential account
of colonial histories and national futures. In 1927, after a visit to Salvador, Freyre
penned the following:
Bahia of all saints (and almost all sins)
Houses climbing licentiously atop one another
Houses, colonial mansions, churches . . .
All of Bahia is one fat maternal city
As if out of her taut wombs
From which there have arisen so many of Brazil’s cities
with still more to come
in the oily soft air filled with smells of food . . .
People of Bahia!
Black, tan, purple, brown
The color of plantation hardwoods
Of Brazil
(wood that termites can’t chew)
a place without faces the color of pale salad
nor visages like cold turkey
without the lumps of French butter
(red hair of Englishmen and Germans)
Bahia burning with hot colors
Warm meat and spicy tastes
Old Black women of Bahia
Selling gruel, manioc paste and bean fritters
Old Black women in scarlet shawls
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
ignored the colonial center and focused on the malls and residential developments
popping up under the influence of the petrodollars cycled through Brazil by North
American banks.
In the 1980s—a “lost decade” in much of Latin America owing to debt crisis—
Brazil returned to civilian rule and Bahian industry expanded. Incentives established
by the military in the 1970s spurred, for the first time, a relatively well-paid, Afro-
descendent industrial working class (Castro 1998; Kottak 2005). And when barred
because of their race from existing leisure organizations, this proletariat invented
blocos afros, or African-themed associations. Among the most popular was Olodum,
begun in the Maciel at the end of the 1970s (Rodrigues 1995, 1996). Within a
decade Olodum became one of Brazil’s most popular musical groups and thousands
attended its rehearsals, stimulating a movement of working-class youths between
the Pelourinho and periphery that would politicize both while helping to convince
the Bahian state of the value of Pelourinho culture (Sansone 1995).12
The Pelourinho’s centrality to Bahia’s “re-Africanization” (Risério 1980),
coupled with deindustrialization caused by expiring incentives, appears to have
alerted Magalhães’s coalition to culture’s possibilities. It had, since the 1960s,
anchored appeals to the populace in signs of Afro-Bahian culture (Dantas Neto
2006; Santos 2005) and sought to restore the Pelourinho. But UNESCO offered
technical advice alone: Only when Magalhães regained Bahia’s governorship in the
neoliberal 1990s could the state dedicate $100 million to cultural heritage. It did
so with funds derived from privatizing Bahia’s banking system, major highway,
ferryboat service, and power and light companies.
In the next section, I describe what happened when IPAC, funded by the sale of
industries, dispossessed residents and restored their former abodes after November
of 1992. To understand that moment, it is important to recognize how Freyre’s
writings, IPAC gathering of information about the red light district, and heritage
planning in general turn on the making public, and subsequent protection, of
previously unmarked and often domestic habits. The heritage-based recuperation
of what supposedly happened in kitchens and bedrooms, and its exposition on
Pelourinho plazas from the time of Freyre’s poem “Bahia” through the Pelourinho
restoration of the 1990s, is formally similar to the retrieval and reinvention of
everyday practices as heritage by IPAC ethnographers. And in the Pelourinho they
are tied even tighter by the fact that, as I discuss at length below, the neighborhood’s
domestic spaces served as sites for unions between newly cash-rich, working-
class—as well as elite—Bahian men and their mistresses. Memories of this process
allowed IPAC’s colonization of affect through social science to give rise during
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CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
claim to exception. In the case of Katrina, whose strength was magnified not
by nature, but by the ways humans built and ran New Orleans, this would be
real estate speculation, racism, and generations of poor planning and governance
(Colten 2006). For Bahian heritage, the elision of context (and hence an inability
to recognize the Pelourinho Historial Center as an ongoing attempt to resolve
social differences that separate Bahia’s multiple political subjects and occasion real
exploitation) wipes out memories of the removal of the neighborhood’s population,
their subjection to sanitary surveillance, and IPAC connivance with military police
sent to arrest lawbreakers in advance of the payment of indemnification.
Both a disaster like Katrina and a cathedral registered by UNESCO emerge as
exceptional in relation to their own conditions of possibility: The exception is not
an outside that gives rise to the system, but rather part and parcel of that system’s
ongoing functioning.15 And my disagreement here with Agamben’s (1998, 1999)
situation of homo sacer—that being who purportedly produces sovereignty by
remaining outside or at the borders of the social order, liable to be killed but
not sacrificed—becomes more apparent in relation to my second point about the
convergences between racial democracy’s and cultural heritage’s disseminations
of private habits. Put simply, the apparent constriction of reference I associated
above with the exception as event is both exacerbated and undermined by emotion
in ways that help us understand the segmentations of knowledge within imperial
formations.
This might be introduced via the words of Bahia’s Governor César Borges at
a March 1999 inauguration of a restored Pelourinho plaza:
The primary duty of every citizen is that of preserving his or her land. During
this celebration of the 450 years of our city the very best present we might
give to Salvador is to make sure that things and identities become more and
more untouchable. The point is to permit them to last centuries by means
of an economy of signs that we should cultivate as sacred. There is nothing
that particularizes more our city than its good populace. For those who have
been here since the cradle as well as those who might stop by here for a
time, whether short or long, whether to put down or not to put down roots,
to care for Salvador is to incorporate into your personal world a piece of
this spirituality, singular in its essence but plural in its manifestations—of
affectivity, hospitality, sincerity and solidarity.
Borges seeks to fix “economies of signs” as shared, sacred, and hence relatively
permanent symbols around which citizens might internalize putative essences,
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CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
FIGURE 1. A Pelourinho resident cuts wood in front of his home in preparation for the
installation of a new front door. Photograph by John Collins.
claimed lay around them (Collins forthcoming). But they dug not out of interest,
nor love, nor curiosity about the architecture IPAC presented as revelatory of
national essences. They dug in attempts to survive (see Figure 1).
Monuments of Brazilianness the state sought to make compelling through racial
mixture and national sentiment were for residents little more than ruinas, or ruins
made significant only by their own labor. This familiarity that leads to a rejection of
objects’ walled-off, sacred status, and the emotion that the nation-building process
imposes on these symbols, is not surprising. But it is significant: For residents the
291
CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
TOMBAMENTO AS REDEMPTION
In April of 2000, as the excesses of carnival turned into Holy Week commem-
orations of Christian resurrection, I found myself in front of Salvador’s São Joaquim
market. Soaked by showers, I sat in a Volkswagen alongside Indio, a 26-year-old
former “street child.” This normally stoic friend, confidant, and former resident
of Salvador’s colonial downtown who, before he died in 2004, asked that I some
day represent him “as he was,” quivered with emotion. His head lay on Rita, his
wife whose thrust of a paring knife in repayment for his philandering had left him
quadriplegic. The two shed tears as three friends from Rita’s birthplace, the pe-
ripheral neighborhood of Sussuarana, slouched in the back seat suffering alongside
us.
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
The day had begun before dawn as I parked above the polymer-roofed house on
the embankment in Sussuarana to which Indio had moved after receiving an IPAC
indemnification. He had thus returned to the sort of neighborhood he fled as a child.
Yet even as Indio’s state sought to banish him from its efforts to capture resources
and cultivate citizens by restoring ruins, he had managed to document his HIV+
status and claim a disability pension. As his health deteriorated, he gained a place
in CAASAH, an NGO dedicated to the treatment of HIV infection and high on the
list of philanthropies supported by Governor Magalhães’s coalition, whose politics
involved a combination of patron–clientship and neoliberal governmentality (Biehl
2007).18 By the time we found ourselves in front of the market trying to convince
Rita to leave her new boyfriend, Indio had abandoned CAASAH for the freedom
of the distant home he and Rita purchased with IPAC funds. But Rita experienced
her removal from the Pelourinho in a quite different manner.
Rita refused to enter the car, moaning, “I just can’t! I can’t go back to that
place [Sussuarana]. There’s nothing there for me. Just tedium. And death . . . I
love you, Indio, but I can’t go!” Indio, allowing Rita to smooth his hair, asked
me to drive to his brother Gaginho’s home in another peripheral neighborhood,
Fazenda Grande do Retiro. As we pulled up, Gaginho came bounding up to
the car. Like Rita and Indio, he was HIV+. Also like his brother, Gaginho had
been evaluated by IPAC and removed from the Pelourinho, receiving $1,100 in
exchange for the home he had shared with his common-law wife, Topa, on the
street known as the Ladeira da Misericórdia. After this ran out Gaginho could
not maintain contact with former neighbors because of fragile health and a lack of
money.
Gaginho was thus overjoyed to see his brother. As greetings melded into
reminiscences he introduced a woman whose features recalled another, by then-
deceased, Misericórdia resident. “This is my mother-in-law,” Gaginho announced
as the woman sobbed, “Topa was so beautiful, so smart . . . too smart for the
[Fazenda Grande do Retiro] neighborhood.” Rivaled only by her brother-in-law,
Indio, Topa had been the Misericórdia’s most respected inhabitant. Her kindness
permitted me to conduct fieldwork among residents of this hillside street, a group
reviled by respectable Bahians, feared by neighbors, and wary of outsiders because
of attacks by death squads hired by local business owners. And now her mother
explained how her daughter had run away to the red light district. During one
excursion home she met the younger Gaginho and convinced him to join her,
arguing, like Rita when denying Indio’s pleadings years later, that the Pelourinho
offered an alternative to her natal neighborhood (see Figure 2).
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CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
FIGURE 2. Gaginho looks across Salvador’s financial center from his home in the Historical
Center. Photograph by John Collins.
[tombar] dead.” And people often argued that their identities, or inner essences,
constituted properties of the nation and were thus tombado.
This rendering static crystallizes possessive logics critical to the construal of
difference as economic resource. For residents who faced ethnography and then,
via indemnification, the placing of a price on habits, to be patrimonialized is to be in
a sense dead or immobile. But this is also a state of preservation and evidence of the
value of one’s being. Hence tombamento is a desirable entombing that empowers
even as it exploits: Indio, weakened by AIDS and unable to walk, sat in a car seat
and recuperated himself by arguing that he was a bit of patrimony that, despite its
frozen state, had value. Residents interpreted patrimonialization as a purification
based on a gathering of essences. But they resignified IPAC’s designation of the
neighborhood’s population as in need of recuperation, or exceptional, by arguing
that subjection to such pedagogies was simply the state’s method of recognizing
their intrinsic specialness.
A language of recuperation around cultural essence is apparent in newspapers,
speeches, government public relations literature, and IPAC planning. Yet as illus-
trated by Indio’s strategies in impressing his relatives, claims about reconfiguring
formerly stigmatized or no longer useful origins—ruins, if you will—are polyva-
lent. The downtown to which people fled to reinvent themselves has now been set
off as exceptional through purification, rather than denigration. In an example of
this process’s diffusion, I overheard Indio say about me as I walked toward Topa’s
mother’s house, “Eh, and that guy’s from antiquity [antiguidade] too. I’ve known
him since I was a [street] kid.”20
As part of UNESCO’s late-20th-century “Living Human Treasures” program
which seeks to valorize producers of cultural knowledge, and which gave rise in
2003 to the augmentation of existing natural and cultural patrimony by a new cate-
gory of “intangible” heritage, people may be construed as possessions of humankind
(Collins forthcoming). Overseen by UNESCO, which separates out natural, cul-
tural, and intangible registers, each with distinct archival registries and preservation
protocols, heritage thus links places, phenomena, and life forms through property
regimes (Ferry 2002, 2005). It establishes a transnational framework that mediates
metadiscursively different scales and sites within, and for, the invention of tradition
(Bissell 2005; Briggs 1996; James 2006). Indio’s statement suggests he compre-
hends the power of this spiraling technology. He thus points to the redemptive
power of heritage, a technique employed by nation-states and transnational orga-
nizations to lift objects out of impoverished contexts and burnish them so that all
members of society may make out some shared, if factitious, basis for belonging.
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CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
And what makes heritage special, is, tautologically speaking, its exceptionality (Hill
2007).
But the pricing of moral aptitudes and uses of space does more than create
a fetishized essence within people. Instead, indemnifications link people into a
community not simply of consumers, or neighbors, but networks tied together in
an “avalanche of numbers,” or a “moral science” of statistics in which “probabilities
represent our ignorance rather than any objective reality” (Hacking 1991:190).
Without an ability to calculate a mean there can be no deviants or deviance.
Hence the invention of probability illustrates that the exception can arise only
within regimes of calculability, and might best be approached in relation to such
assemblages rather than more constricted definitions of context. These need not
be explicitly numerical, but they are necessarily normative. Like markets, they
are explicitly related to specific times and places. In other words, deviance from
the rule is not a function of objective reality, of calculations that describe that
reality, but rather of a specific viewpoint generalized across space and time that in
turn determines its own characteristics of deviance, or exception. But I am in no
way suggesting that Pelourinho residents reside in a zone of indistinction “included
solely through exclusion” (Agamben 1998:11).
In the 1990s, residents became increasingly aware of the ebb and flow of
exception and exceptionalism. This was due to more than their familiarity with
social scientists and, until the 1980s, elite men who maintained second families
downtown and thus sometimes fathered (but rarely recognized) people whose
stories contribute to this account. It arose also from people’s transit between a
relatively secure downtown where “money flows” (corre dinheiro) and the poverty
of Salvador’s periphery. Residents who fancied themselves malandros, or rogues,
skilled with fists, knives, and capoeira kicks in downtown confrontations found
themselves in new neighborhoods facing shotguns and neighbors who broke down
their front doors with crowbars. Unlike in the former Maciel, they could not
turn for help to roving police patrols. Pickpockets who argued that they could
filch a billfold and then return it empty to a drunk’s pockets complained about
having to live with gente bruta or rude (brutal, rude people) on the city’s outskirts.
Such accounts indicate how a population configured by IPAC as a bit of Brazil’s
patrimony, and hence somewhat sacrosanct even as it faced the symbolic death of
removal from the city center, represented life on the periphery as indeed much
starker, if not barer. They understood just how special, and easy, life in the
supposedly denigrated downtown really was, at least in comparison to the rural
districts and slums many had fled, alone, as “street children.” And many struggled,
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
Nonetheless, even as João’s grandson, Pedro II, would take power in 1841 as
an emperor born and raised in Rio, the Brazilian empire does not enter and leave
its exceptional status through a story of monarchical succession. Nor do I lead my
reader into Luso-American history to prove that Brazil is an imperialist nation. It
is true that the tropical monarchy threatened its neighbors and appropriated large
swathes of territory. And the extent to which histories of internal dissent, interclass
and interracial struggle and love, anti-Portuguese sentiment, and eventual national
consolidation around racial ideologies silences accounts of this expansionism is
astounding. Yet an attempt to forge a perspective for contesting imperial mufflings,
and this endeavor’s relationship to Topa’s life and cultural heritage, is what most
interests me here.
I began this article with observations about exceptions like patrimonialized
objects, treating these as nodes that make aspects of the everyday special while re-
flecting a society’s techniques for narrating social bonds into existence. At the same
time these heritage-based techniques are potentially discriminatory ways of manag-
ing the overlaps between different aspects of political life. I then moved to show how
the restorative technique of heritage is reworked by its subjects. At each nexus de-
scribed, then, I have struggled to show how that which is exceptional is not outside
society, but rather a way of constructing shifting forms of inclusion and exclusion
selectively available to differentially situated actors. The argument revolves around
civilization and barbarism as a trope reanimated, reimplanted, and at times denied in
varying spheres of social life at distinct points in the construction of the Brazilian na-
tion (Caldeira and Hoslton 2005; Holston 1989). And this civilization and barbarism
was imperfectly resolved within Brazilian history through an array of purificatory
emphases on racial hybridity brought together under the umbrella of so-called
“racial democracy.”23
Meanwhile, today, at a moment when racial democracy is under sustained
attack and hence offers an increasingly weak way of including, and excluding,
citizens (Guimarães 2002; Telles 2003), cultural heritage has come to the fore.
Cultural heritage as exception, however, covers up its real links to the sustaining
paradoxes of Brazilian life. And for this reason the exchange between Topa, a
woman who lived much of her adult life in the midst of sustained state and
NGO-based attempts to transform her everyday into patrimony and to sanitize
her in the process, presents a powerful way to reconstitute the history of the
Pelourinho as well as to indicate how this history can help people understand empire
today.
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Center for Studies and Therapy of Drug Abuse), stopped at the Coaty Nightclub,
a building restored in the 1980s and invaded by squatters in the 1990s.25 The
CETAD group, composed of medical doctors and community outreach workers,
has long worked in Salvador’s Historical Center and, especially, on the stigmatized
Misericórdia, which, although it no longer functioned as a location for widescale
prostitution, was home to many prostitutes and an open drug trade.
Personnel handed out folders, pads, pens, and AIDS education literature
designed to encourage participation in a theatrical exercise. They even listed Topa,
a resident of the Coaty, as an event organizer and handed out a sheet entitled,
“Awareness: Preventive Information about STDs/AIDS, Drug Abuse, and Quality
of Life.”26 Asked to define “health” and to draw a body, we scribbled while listening
to lectures about taking responsibility for our bodies.
As residents sketched while mumbling that it was strange that the bourgeoisie
should speak about bodies, Topa drifted in and out of the room. She told me later
she was upset that her space had been penetrated by people who judged her habits,
and hence pessoa (person). Agitated, she pulled out a paper, wrote something, and
walked over to me to drop the sheet in my lap. It read, “For those who know, 2 +
2 = 4.” Farther down she had written, alongside the number four, “I am José. No,
I am nena, neno,” as she allowed her pen to trail off in a squiggly line.27
Soon a nurse from the Pelourinho’s health center asked residents to act out
“private” activities like bathing, cooking, and washing dishes. My notes, taken on
CETAD paper, indicate that she emphasized that “Each person is the owner of
her body” and “You have value.”28 In response to a question about parasites, the
nurse encouraged proper disposal of feces and toilet paper because “uncivilized”
habits might infect water supplies.29 Topa huffed and puffed as friends silenced
her, embarrassed by their “problematic” neighbor (“Pare de ser pobremática [sic] e
deixe de bulir!”) who frightened “Ministry of Health” doctors.30
As the nurse finished, Topa remarked, “Doutora . . . I have just one doubt that
needs to be cleared up about this issue of feces. Doctor, you say that we should
not throw our shit-laden—sorry, I mean soiled—paper on the ground. This is an
important issue. I just want to understand it a little better.”
The nurse responded, “Yes, I’m glad you’re asking about this. I think we really
need to talk about hygiene.”
Topa went on, “So as I understand it. Well, let me ask it this way. If I am
walking on a Saturday afternoon, out looking for useful items in the trash in your
neighborhood . . . and I need to defecate, I should look for a bathroom. There’s no
way I should crap—I mean defecate—in the street. Right?”
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
FIGURE 3. Topa on the Ladeira da Misericórdia, November 1998, wearing a touristic shirt
depicting Afro-Bahian figures appropriated by the Bahian state in its fomenting of Pelourinho
culture. Photograph by John Collins.
“Eh, eh, eh, eh,” sputtered the nurse as Topa continued, “And I say ‘Excuse
me, I need to use your bathroom so that I don’t shit all over the sidewalk and soil
the street and endanger public health,’ what do you think your maid is going to tell
me? Is she going to let me in to use your bathroom that she’s been scrubbing all
morning? Or when she calls back and you answer, ‘Who is it?’ Are you going to tell
her to let me into your house to use your clean toilet so I don’t get shit and toilet
paper on the sidewalk? What if I should need to defecate in your neighborhood,
madame?!?”
The educator stood speechless until a social worker asked, “Well, what would
you do in that case, Topa?”
Topa hissed, “Don’t butt in! I’m doing the asking!”31
The nurse, a kind professional I came to know later through my son’s checkups
at the Pelourinho health post, responded, “Ah ah ah ah ah, well, I would hope that
anyone who answered the door in my house would let you in.”
“But would you tell your maid to let me in?” insisted Topa.
“This is truly a difficult question,” responded the nurse, honestly. A long
silence settled over CETAD and the people among the most prone to new HIV
infection of Salvador’s poor. Friends hushed Topa as Gaginho pulled her from the
room. She began crying, refusing to rejoin the end of the lesson. At that moment,
another woman announced, “I just want to know when the doctors are going to
come see us. I’ve had enough with this education stuff. When are the doctors
coming?” At this, the CETAD team announced that the meeting and street theater
were over. Promising to stop by again next week, they returned home via “the
hill without an origin / or [that] in its very origins . . . is without an end” (Filho
1987:287).
Here Topa, who once worked as a servant, raises the possibility of the wrong type
of working-class woman’s entrance into the bourgeois home, precisely the scene
of the narrative of national purification/hybridity crystallized by Freyre. A maid
who guards this space greets the interloper and checks whether or not to admit
the woman from the Pelourinho. Yet Topa, a former prostitute and hence the
doorkeeper’s immoral doppelganger, paralyzes the patroa (nurse) by performing
an imagined interaction on the threshold of house and street. And this solicitation of
a toilet allows Topa to interpellate the hygienist who arrived on the Misericórdia so
as to educate, or from the perspective of an IPAC that would benefit from CETAD
activities, to render palatable to the public that would soon flock to the historical
center, some of Salvador’s most marginalized and diseased quasicitizens.
From residents’ perspective, CETAD and IPAC are both state institutions.
Topa’s “gutsy insurrection” may thus be read as an analysis of her state’s appro-
priation of her quotidian through surveillance of hygiene, sexuality, and domestic
habits. The inversions permit Topa to situate her own objectification within a
history of IPAC cleansing. More than a Rabelasian overturning of official cul-
ture or even an anthropological fetishization of abjection, Topa’s challenge re-
calls Begoña Aretxaga’s description of political prisoners’ “dirty protest.” These
IRA partisans’ complaints—forged around feces, urine, and menstrual blood—
reconstituted colonial representations of Irish filth “as [instead] a materialization
of the buried ‘shit’ of British colonization, a de-metaphorization of the ‘savage,
dirty Irish’” (Aretxaga 1995:35; see also Feldman 1991). In something akin to
Topa’s upending of IPAC constructions of belonging through the materialization of
racial democracy around her own habits, Irish prisoners’ manifestations of excreta
made public relations to the state, colonial history, and contemporary society. Yet
Topa never manipulates feces in the face of surveillance. She employs witty figures
of speech to uncover how her role in the production of origins is hidden. What
is key here is not simply the instantiation of biopolitics, or Topa’s rejection of
the objectifications of exceptionality, but how Topa makes visible the normaliza-
tions and fragmentations of critical-perceptual landscapes that pave the way for
“accumulation by dispossession” (Harvey 2005).
IPAC relies, as do historical centers in general, on monumentalized “signs
of history” that “instantiate general patterns of meaningful order” (Parmentier
1987:308) typical of nationalism’s widening of indexical relations into iconicity.
These signs call up their objects arbitrarily, in a Saussurean sense, in manners that
tend toward the establishment of lawlike generality on the basis of the fixing of their
material states (Daniel 1996). For example, when, in interactions with a post-1990
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
the production of mini events called crises, emergencies, and exceptions are raised
to the level of consciousness, there exists the possibility that all involved, whether
CETAD pedagogue, anthropological analyst, or ethnographic subject, may be able
to make out not simply what is arbitrarily available but, rather, a spectrum of social
processes in which all participate. But how?
When Topa inhabited IPAC and CETAD discourses in the Coaty she revealed
performatively how these institutions entify people and events as both problems
and monuments that produce Brazilian identity and history. By bringing to the fore-
front the hubris of middle-class people who would police her own domestic space,
Topa makes clear the distinct bases of her own and the researchers’ and educators’
participation in a project configured as pedagogical and restorative. The issue is no
longer one of making out what Bahian origins really are. Rather, Topa forced all
present, as the Pelourinho nurse and I discussed in subsequent meetings, to recog-
nize how erudite knowledge and popular practice become entwined in producing
a particular version of Bahian origins around the Pelourinho as exception. Topa,
then, helps make apparent the sedimentation of IPAC representations that make up
the ground from which she must speak and from which her state configures her as
a source of information about Bahian society. This ability to demonstrate history’s
constructedness in real time and alongside its production of materiality around
human figures may appear a small contribution by one woman, especially when
viewed in light of the weight of some undifferentiated, or even quite specifically
defined, entity called empire. But it is an important aspect of understanding, and
perhaps even altering, empire in all its contradictions and ambitions.
CONCLUSION
Topa did much in life. How capably she could open new perspectives became
apparent more than a year after her insurrection. As the nurse examined my son
during a routine checkup, we talked of the Misericórdia and she exclaimed, “These
people are quite difficult. They’re really needy. One never knows what they put
in their bodies and how those substances are going to make them react.” I had, for
an instant, felt a kinship with the nurse because her facial expression suggested a
recognition of the pain Topa felt on the day CETAD sought to teach her hygiene and
value. However, this attachment dissipated as the nurse focused on “these people”
and their neediness. Perhaps Topa was needy. But middle-class anthropologists and
public health professionals who make a career traveling to the Misericórdia are, in
their own, special ways, needy.
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
In this way heritage points not simply to the global influence of UNESCO, and
the development projects that piggyback on its engagements with culture, but to
the extent to which debates over the entanglements of politics and economy are
also, like categories of heritage itself, questions about the details of boundaries
constructed by humans. In this light discussions of imperialism that fail to take
into account issues like Freyre’s concerns with the smells of kitchens and domestic
relations between masters and slaves fail also to specify how value is produced and
hegemony instantiated in places like the Pelourinho. But my point is not to argue
that the domestic is politicized, something long a staple of social scientific analysis.
It is instead to stress the importance of following political contexts and specifying
analytical trajectories in response to what it is that people really do, rather than
in relation to that which analysts imagine, or hope, they might do. This is a very
simple and long-standing anthropological point. But it is one that bears repeating
and one that I have sought to update in the pages above.
I have built on Smith’s (2007) and Fassin and Vasquez’s (2005) attempts to
relate emergencies to their social and political contexts. But I have approached
context differently: I have not plotted, as in Saussure’s theorization of parole
in relation to a langue that lies at the heart of Agamben’s arguments about a
constitutive exclusion (2006:39–40), the effect of an emergency in relation to a
context determined by physical or temporal proximity. Instead, following Topa,
I have linked multiple crises or abnormalities and attempts at their amelioration
or resolution. But I have struggled to make out this space of ongoing emergency
through microarguments about people’s embodied practices. Topa looks, from
within her own house invaded by sanitarists, across space and time at multiple
exceptions by means of questions put to a wealthier woman who would teach her
correct behavior. She pushes for an analysis that is so dispersed that it leads the
nurse to explain away Topa’s unruliness in terms of neediness and the influence of
illegal substances. Topa does not respond to the AIDS crisis, or the threat of feces,
as a problem of her own, delimited context on the Misericórdia. Instead, she pushes
into new contexts, including the nurse’s house and blurred gender boundaries, as
she writes a note to me saying “I am Nena, I am Neno.” And I have sought to do
justice to the brilliant openings she provides by following her genealogically, via
an exploration that examines the formation of exceptions as linked solutions to
enduring problems, rather than through a consideration of individual exceptions
and their discrete contexts.
In an imagined dialogue with a now deceased Topa, and drawing on the gift
of a copy of da Cunha’s text that she may or may not have willed me, I have
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thus extended our shared yet still disparate analyses into the Bahia sertão of the
1890s and the Iberian Peninsula of the first decade of the 19th century. And this
rethinking of context both in terms of people and spaces that supposedly have
nothing to do with empire, and also in terms of a theorization of context that does
not fall into a structure–event dichotomy, recalls Bruno Latour advice that when
anyone speaks of system or structure the researcher’s “first . . . reflex should be to
ask ‘In which building? In which bureau? Through which corridor?’” (2005:183).
Here I emphasize that Topa did not denounce the CETAD nurse. She did not slot
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her interlocutor into a category of personhood. Nor did she explain that she indeed
knew all about something called “public health.” Rather, she asked the nurse if she
would allow her to cross her home’s threshold if she needed a bathroom. This
is a narrow query. But it is also one that might be followed through a variety of
corridors and across a number of spaces and moments, as Topa demonstrated. And
it is a question that is quite fitting from a woman who knows well that, “For those
who know, 2 + 2 = 4.” Perhaps some day we may all begin to realize how 2 + 2
= 4. But the trick will be to begin to understand on what basis, and to what effect,
we have begun to recognize the truth of such an apparently simple statement. (See
Figure 4.)
ABSTRACT
In this article, I examine systems of care aimed at improving citizens and ruined colonial
buildings in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil’s Pelourinho World Heritage Site. Such UNESCO-
sanctioned trusteeship, or the identification of buildings, bodies, and practices in need
of a tutelage that would recuperate them as signs of a common humanity, maintains
and exacerbates segmentations of knowledge essential to imperial control. I thus work
to reconsider the Pelourinho, and cultural heritage, as imperial formations in light of
UNESCO’s system of producing world heritage through the specification of “exceptional
universal value” in which the exceptional object obfuscates not simply as an emergency,
but through its monumentalization as an ostensibly shared property. This attempt
to gain a clearer understanding of empires’ real effects is catalyzed by a number
of residents of the Pelourinho who, in their subjection to decades of state-directed
surveillance intended to make them into living human ancestors, have come to reject
sentimental attachments to buildings or the purveyors of philanthropy. Yet the ways
they do so are revelatory of new approaches to exceptions: Residents reject victimhood
as a state of being injured and instead weave accounts of the structures that engender,
and continue to reproduce, such violence. I follow in the path of this quite iconoclastic
version of “historical reconstruction” as a way to draw out an ambivalently postcolonial
Brazil whose own claims to exceptionality may be understood, like those put together by
the woman I call Topa, as forced by entwined historical processes, rather than isolated
emergencies or remainders beyond the political. My aim is to show how empires can be
linked across space and time, without relying on empirical mapping of their constitutive
parts and ideological props—recognizing, instead, the specificity of empire’s effects.
Keywords: Brazil, cultural heritage, empire, sovereignty, segmented
knowledges
NOTES
Acknowledgments. Research for this project was made possible by grants from IIE Fulbright, the
Wenner-Gren Foundation for Anthropological Research, the U.S. National Science Foundation, the
Brazilian PIBIC Program, and PSC-CUNY. This was presented as a paper at the Queens College
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CULTURAL ANTHROPOLOGY 23:2
Faculty Workshop organized by Donald Scott as well as the New School for Social Research’s October,
2006 “Charred Landscapes/Imperial Debris” conference put together by Ann Laura Stoler and David
Bond. I thank these organizers, and in particular Ann Stoler, together with three anonymous reviewers
and Kim and Mike Fortun at Cultural Anthropology, for pushing my arguments as they developed. The
text draws also on discussions in the CUNY Graduate Center’s 2006–07 Center for Place, Culture
and Politics’ seminar on disaster. For this, I am grateful to Neil Smith and Omar Dahbour. Additional
comments by E. Valentine Daniel, Nubia Bento Rodrigues, Hylton White, Kevin Birth, Hugh
Raffles, Jacqueline Brown, Leith Mullings, Mandana Limbert, and Jeff Maskovsky helped me tie my
arguments more complexly to keen insights offered by Topa, Indio, Gaginho, Bebel and their families
and neighbors, especially the Famı́lia Gomes de Jesus. I am indebted also to Dr. Tarcı́sio Matos de
Andrade and the health professionals working with CETAD and the Pelourinho’s São Franciso health
post in the 1990s.
1. Magalhães, who died in July of 2007, is an example of the continuing salience, if not the
accentuation, of certain types of right-wing populism (Power 1998) and political forces based
on patron–client relations during neoliberalism, or what so many commentators portray
erroneously as the subsumption of “traditional” forms of Latin American politics to market
logics. Instead, the Pelourinho case demonstrates how, within “actually existing neoliberalism”
(Brenner and Theodore 2002), states may in fact become even more involved in regulation.
This may be, as is the Bahian case in the 1990s, a shift in attention away from, for example,
industrial production, power and light, and other infrastructure projects and toward new
forms of infrastructure, like the Pelourinho’s restored landscape, directed as culture. I place
Governor in quotation marks because by 1999–2000 Magalhães had already resigned the
governorship he won in 1997 and taken a position in the Brazilian Senate. A wily politician,
Magalhães was both revered and despised in the Pelourinho and throughout Brazil as a strong
patron who controlled the right-wing Party of the Liberal Front. And in part for this reason
he is still called “the Governor” in the Pelourinho today, a neighborhood where his portrait
hung obligatorily in all commercial establishments throughout the 1990s.
2. All translations are by the author. Accounts of statements made during the SIRCHAL
meetings emanate from field notes taken during presentations and working groups.
Copies of SIRCHAL working papers may be found at http://www.archi.fr/SIRCHAL/
seminair/sirchal4/frameRapport.htm, accessed February 4, 2008.
3. Even as Chatterjee offers a creative solution to the issue of the identification of apparently
imperial relations in a world without “classical” 19th-century, northern European empires, his
suggestion that indirect control is new misses the insight that empire has long been “dependent
not on stable populations so much as on highly moveable ones” (Stoler 2006b:137).
4. Anthropologists attentive to exceptions have done much recently to explore politics under
neoliberalism. Charles Hale (2002, 2006) suggests that by means of a “neoliberal multi-
culturalism” Latin American states withdraw from the provision of basic services to their
citizenries by offering instead, on a selective basis in relation to minority subjects’ ability to
articulate resonant claims to difference, rights based on difference itself. João Biehl, working
in Salvador with Pelourinho residents institutionalized in an AIDS hospice has argued that
under neoliberalism the space of politics and the social and the poor are left with little more
than networks of relatively isolated spaces where they might partially transform a “diseased
biology, marginal and excluded, into a selective means of inclusion” (2007:326). And Aiwa
Ong (2006) has performed for neoliberalism something akin to what Chatterjee suggests may
be revelatory of empire: she examines a number of oftentimes contradictory, global, spaces
of exception to argue that neoliberalism depends on the construction of multiple exceptions
as well as its claim that it is exceptional.
5. The IDB was involved because, by means of its “Monumenta” Program, which is intended
to combine an interest in Brazilian historical sites and their human populations within a
development perspective, it has begun to work closely with UNESCO which, in turn,
is moving toward a greater engagement with development projects that configure cul-
ture as an economic resource. Monumenta, as of the end of 2007, had provided funding
to 17 projects throughout Brazil but IPAC, owing mainly to its exclusion of residents,
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has not yet qualified for the program. For an IDB outline in English of Monumenta see
http://www.iadb.org/exr/doc98/apr/br1200e.pdf, accessed January 14, 2008.
6. For discussions of temporality, appropriations of ruins and heritage sites, and differential
interpretations of history, see especially chapter 3 of Bruner 2005; Castañeda 1996; Handler
and Gable 1997; Limbert in press; and Price 2006.
7. Historian Barbara Weinstein defines this narrative of collective belonging as positing a “harmo-
nious fusion of European, African, and Indian cultures in a single nationality that, despite the
‘principal’ role played by Brazilians of European descent, rejected racial discrimination and
valorized non-European cultural traditions” (2003:238). Although the formulation is often
attributed to Gilberto Freyre following the publication of The Masters and the Slaves, Bahian
sociologist Antônio Sérgio Guimarães argues that it was in fact the French anthropologist,
Roger Bastide, who first coined the term in 1944. Guimarães understands racial democracy
as divided into three main periods. Even as ideas abut miscegenation appear in the first years
following 1888 emancipation, Guimarães tracks the national ideology to 1930, and Getúlio
Vargas’s presidency. This mandate would culminate in the 1937–45 New State (Estado Novo)
dictatorship that consolidated Brazil institutionally and ideologically as a modern nation. For
this reason Guimarães argues that during the period from 1930–64, generally called a period
of “national developmentalist pact,” racial democracy was dominant and accepted by a major-
ity of Brazilians. During the 1964–85 military group, however, society started to polarize in
relation to race. Proponents of the dictatorship sought to hold onto the concept as a nationalist
prop whereas Afro-Brazilians employed a critique of racial democracy as a critique of the
regime. Finally, during redemocratization, which began in 1978 with the military’s “easing”
(abertura) and culminated in the end of martial rule in 1985, racial democracy lost most of its
previous, broad appeal, in part because of a global interest in racial justice, civil right, and
multiculturalism. Today, according to Guimarães, it is in steep decline as an accepted “myth”
(2002). Whether or not this is true, it has been under intense assault over last three decades.
Yet since the end of the 1980s, contestations have taken on a new tenor and analysts have
begun to recognize that racial democracy is not some mask that might be ripped away to reveal
a true substrate of blackness (Collins 2007b; Goldstein 2003; Sheriff 2001). Nonetheless,
this does not mean that a majority of social scientists or citizens believe it should be held on
to, even as some appreciate the formation as an ideal. But what is most apparent in terms
of so-called racial democracy’s influence is how much this claim to redemptive mixture has
done to make Brazil special, notable, and, yes, exceptional in the social sciences and popular
opinion across the 20th century.
8. Salvador is one of the few carefully planned, Lusitanian colonial urban grids in the Americas.
And this status as a planned city is important because Sérgio Buarque de Holanda (1999) has
argued that poor, jumbled Portuguese planning is a mark of its empire’s degeneracy. Hence
Salvador, as a site organized in the gridlike Spanish fashion Buarque de Holanda contrasted
to haphazard Portugeuse planning, enters Freyre’s verse not as a degraded space, but as a
European space that does not quit fit its environment.
9. For a detailed, historical refutation of claims that this seigniorial house, as opposed to public
space, presented domestic servants with an intimate environment see Sandra Lauderdale
Graham (1988).
10. Brazil has long been divided by geographers, policy analysts, and popular opinion between
five major regions. Of these, the northeast, consisting of nine states with a combined area
over three times the size of France, was home to over 30 percent of Bazil’s population but
produced only 13 percent of its GDP at the end of the 20th century. Wages, life expectancy,
formal employment for women, and educational levels are thus substantially lower than in
southern states. In what is perhaps an overstatement and a lack of recognition of capitalism’s
varied but interlaced effects on distinct locales, one political scientist claimed recently that
“The persistence in the region of traditional, clientelistic, paternalistic, and corrupt politics,
in a weak civil society in which many principal political figures resist fundamental reform
and the development of pluralism, confounds the success of the national democratization
process” (Selcher 1998:32). Although I do not find this a particularly in-depth analysis of the
northeast’s political economic role in Brazilian national consolidation, it is exemplary of the
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sorts of claims about the region’s backwardness that are common, and built upon analyses of
development indicators, in Brazilian and Brazilianist representations.
11. I point out the social scientists’ documentation of the red light zone inhabitants’ lifeways not
as a part about claims about residents, and what they were really like, but, rather, as evidence
as to how ethnographers perceived, and represented, this reality in the 1970s.
12. And in the 1990s, Olodum, and the Pelourinho as backdrop, starred in Paul Simon’s Rhythm
of the Saints album and Michael Jackson’s music video “They Don’t Care about Us.”
13. See “World Heritage Centre—Nomination Process” at http://whc.unesco.org/en/ nomi-
nationprocess, accessed November 25, 2007.
14. UNESCO agreed that the Pelourinho be included as number 309 in UNESCO’s list of World
Heritage Sites on the basis of its criteria IV and VI for inclusion on the World Heritage List.
Under criterion IV, which requires that a site “be an outstanding example of a type . . . of
ensemble . . . which illustrates . . . significant stages in human history” (UNESCO 2005:20; see
also 1972, 2002), Salvador was dubbed “an eminent example of Renaissance urban structuring
adapted to a colonial site” (ICOMOS 1985:2). And under criterion VI, which requires that
sites be “associated with events or living traditions . . . of outstanding universal significance”
(UNESCO 2005:20), Salvador is described in the document inscribing it in the UNESCO
list as “one of the major points of convergence of European, African and American Indian
cultures” (ICOMOS 1985:3).
15. Disasters like Katrina actually provide insurance companies and developers with new op-
portunities for turning a profit. For this reason it is virtually “an axiom among disaster
researchers that postdisaster recovery efforts follow and even exacerbate predisaster trends
and trajectories” (Smith 2007:776),
16. Luiz Alberto Santos, “Por um Brasil com os dois pés no chão,” Congressional Speech, Brasilia,
January 29, 1998.
17. It is here perhaps significant that Freyre (1970) dedicated a book to the ghosts of great colonial
homes in the city of Recife, capital of the neighboring state of Pernambuco and a recent site
of significant state-directed cultural heritage efforts. Nonetheless, I am unsure as to how the
residents and former residents of the downtown neighborhood restored interpreted their
dwellings.
18. CAASAH, or the Casa de Apoio e Assistência aos Portadores do Vı́rus HIV/AIDS (House
for the support and assistance of HIV/AIDS carriers), is the subject of João Biehl’s (2007)
moving ethnography of pharmaceutical governance and people’s ability to cobble together
lives in zones of exception in Brazil today. For histories of AIDS treatment and pastoral
institutions in Salvador, see Biehl 2006a, 2006b, and 2007. See also the institution’s website
at http://www.caasah.com.br/novo/quem_somos.htm, accessed July 21, 2007. CAASAH
is important to understanding the Pelourinho’s gentrification, and my arguments about ex-
ceptionality, in light of Biehl’s argument that it represents one node in a string of “salvational
economies” that increasingly replace civil society at a moment when neoliberal assemblages
increasingly replace or deform a broader “civil society” in Brazil. This does much to explain
why, in the 1990s, despite contentions from within CAASAH that the institution languished
in poverty, it came to attract significant attention from Antônio Carlos Magalhães’s po-
litical machine. In fact, CAASAH’s close relationship to the Bahian state is revealed by
the state of Bahia’s own website which details the Bahian Ministry of Health’s “reform”
of its new headquarters and which solicits volunteers to work with its AIDS patients. See
http://www.bahia.ba.gov.br/voluntarias/reforma.htm, accessed July 21, 2007. Nonethe-
less, note also that Biehl quotes CAASAH’s director as complaining, in 1993, that “TV Bahia
[belonging to conservative Governor Antônio Carlos Magalhães] came to interview me. It
was horrible. They did not let me say anything about the help Mayor Lı́dice da Matta is giving
us. The media is a true mafia” (2007:293).
19. “Sim, pessoal. Aqui estou, tombado na garupa. Estou bonito, não e não? É por isso que o
gringo cuida bem de mim.”
20. “Esse aı́ é da antiguedade Eu conheco ele desde pivete.”
21. As Nancy Stepan outlines (1991), Brazilian racial thought turns on Lamarckian theories of
ongoing mutability rather than Darwinian natural selection. Thus the manipulation of milieu
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EMPIRE, REDEMPTION, AND TRADITION OF THE OPPRESSED
private donors, including the Bahian Ministry of Health, USAID, and a number of “so-
cial marketing” corporations such as DKT International, a Washington, D.C.-based char-
itable organization that associated with UNAIDS and UNICEF that employs market-
driven mechanisms to deliver AIDS-prevention materials, including female condoms, in
11 nations. In fact, as part of a much broader trend, much of USAID activities are
channeled through such corporations today. For information on CETAD personnel, its
non-Brazilian funding, and its activities in Bahia, see http://www.ufba.br/pautaas/10–
12-2002.html, accessed July 25, 2005; http://www.dkt.com.br/html/proj_004.html,
accessed July 25, 2005; http://www.dktinternational.org/accessed July 25, 2005;
and http://www.usaid.gov/pop_health/aids/Countries/lac/brazil.html, accessed July 25,
2005. Also see Burrows 2006 and WHO–UNAIDS 2004.
In addition to its support from international institutions, CETAD is funded by Bahia’s State
Health Department, attached to the Federal University of Bahia and its teaching hospital,
and draws personnel, like the nurse who engaged Topa, from public health posts. In this
respect Topa’s acting out during the CETAD theater is somewhat surprising in light of
the training and dedication of its personnel. Nonetheless, given Bahia’s extraordinary social
inequalities—in 2006 the United Nations identified Salvador as one of the world’s most
economically segregated and unequal regions, indicating that if Salvador were a nation it
would have the world’s second worse Gini coefficient after Namibia. Although such statistics
are just that, statistics, they give some idea of the social gulf between middle-class educators
and residents of the Misericórdia, Topa’s target precisely. And Topa, by speaking of the nurse’s
maid, also make explicit the extent to which such inequalities coexist in Bahia alongside quite
intimate everyday relations.
31. “Não se meta! Estou perguntando!”
32. In other words I am, in a sense, repeating salient aspects of IPAC and CETAD research
techniques as I seek to gain insight into an “Other” world via Topa as a symbol deployed in the
present text. I do not have a solution to this conundrum at this point. But to ignore it would
be to commit even more violence against Top and my memories of her. Furthermore, to
take the position that I cannot learn from and alongside Topa, despite the extent to which the
geopolitics in which all social scientists are involved in different ways does indeed configure
her as a datum for the appreciation of the outsider, would be to shut down one avenue into
the possibility of challenging such an unequal system.
33. Bahia’s population is usually estimated to be approximately 80 percent Afro-descendent
while, in light of Brazil’s specific racial ideologies, the percentage of the national population
that calls itself black is, according to the 2000 federal census, only about 6 percent.
Editor’s Note: Cultural Anthropology has published a range of articles on the politics of
urban spaces. See, for example, Danny Hoffman’s article on the organization of violence in
postcolonial African cities (2007), Öykü Potuoĝlu-Cook’s article on neoliberal gentrification
and urban renewal in Istanbul (2006), and Benjamin Chesluk’s article on community policing
in New York City (2004). A more extensive list of CA articles on cities and urbanism can be
accessed here at http://culanth.org/?q=node/60.
Cultural Anthropology has also published a number of articles on Brazil. See, for example,
Robin Sheriff’s “The Theft of Carnaval: National Spectacle and Racial Politics in Rio de
Janeiro” (1999), James Holston’s “Autoconstruction in Working-Class Brazil” (1991), and
David Hess’s “Disobsessing Disobsession: Religion, Ritual, and the Social Sciences in Brazil”
(1989).
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