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Crank Wheel Pulser Software

The Crankshaft Timing Signal Wheel Simulator is software from Bowling and Grippo that
simulates the signal from a crank wheel. It does this by creating a sound file (.WAV) and
playing it back through a computer's sound card, on the 'left' channel. There is an optional
cam sync signal playable on the 'right' channel.

Hardware

A typical sound card by itself will only put out about 3 Volts (peak-to-peak) maximum
(you can always lower the voltage with the volume control). This may be enough for some
purposes, but you may want/need more. There are a couple of ways to increase the output
voltage of the signal to usable levels the signal:

1. Use amplified speakers (they will have an AC power adapter) that have a
headphone jack (often available for $20 or less, if you don't already have them).
These will boost the output to around 13 V (p-p) or more, and require no additional
hardware other than a headphone cable. Use the left channel for the crank signal, the
right channel for the cam signal. You will get the maximum output with both the
Windows volume and speaker volume set at their highest.
2. You can use a transformer to step up the output voltage (the following will give you
up to 30 Volts (p-p) on the crank signal). The variable reluctor (VR) output from the
sound card requires an 8 Ohm: 1K Ohm coupling transformer to drive the
MegaSquirt-II VR input circuit. A suitable transformer is Digi-Key 146KHM-ND
($12.89), however this is a 'non-stock' item. You can find them at Unicorn
Electronics. You might have better luck at your local electronics store (RadioShack,
etc.)

Both the VR transformer circuit and cam sync signal circuits are shown below:

The hardware for the VR output looks like this:


The red wire is the signal, the green wire is ground (on the left side of the
transformer). The thick black cable is a stereo jack pirated from an old set of
headphones.

The cam sync signal (if you use it) requires an external transistor driver circuit.

Wire the signal from the sound card to the low resistance side of the transformer, ~1
Ohm (it will be less than eight ohms, which refers to the impedance, rather than the
DC resistance), and the output to the high resistance (~50 Ohms DC) side of the
transformer.

You can build the transformer circuit on a small proto board, or solder the leads
directly to the transformer.

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