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7LSVDQG3UHFDXWLRQV Some connectors have a clip on their side used to attach
them to a mount bracket on the body or on another
%HIRUH7URXEOHVKRRWLQJ component. This clip has a pull type lock.
Check applicable fuses in the appropriate fuse/ Some mounted connectors cannot be disconnected
relay box. unless you first release the lock and remove the
Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and connector from its mount bracket (A).
clean and tight connections.
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Check for loose retainer (A) and rubber seals (B). +DQGOLQJ:LUHVDQG+DUQHVVHV
Secure wires and wire harnesses to the frame with their
respective wire ties at the designated locations.
Remove clips carefully; don’t damage their locks (A).
Slip pliers (A) under the clip base and through the hole
at an angle, then squeeze the expansion tabs to release
the clip.
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Verify The Complaint The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to in the circuit schematics:
verify the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do
not begin disassembly or testing until you have WHT White
narrowed down the problem area.
YEL Yellow
Analyze The Schematic BLK Black
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit.
BLU Blue
Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power feed through GRN Green
the circuit components to ground. If several circuits fail
RED Red
at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of ORN Orange
the circuit operation, identify one or more possible PNK Pink
causes of the problem.
BRN Brown
Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit GRY Gray
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in
step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure PUR Purple
is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most LT BLU Light Blue
likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points
LT GRN Light Green
that are easily accessible.
Fix The Problem The wire insulation has one color or one color with another
color stripe. The second color is the stripe.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the
repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Make Sure The Circuit Works
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all
modes to make sure you’ve fixed the entire problem. If
the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the
circuits on the fuse. Make sure no new problems turn
up and the original problem does not recur.
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5HPRYDODQG,QVWDOODWLRQ Remove the mounting bolt and the under-dash
fuse/relay box (A).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS Disconnect the connectors from the back of the
component locations (see page 23-14), and precautions under-dash fuse/relay box, and remove the fuse/
and procedures (see page 23-16) in the SRS section relay box.
before performing repairs or service.
NOTE: The SRS connector is a spring-loaded lock
type (see page 23-20).
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Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the ,QVWDOODWLRQ
radio, then write down the frequencies for the
Install the under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse
radio’s preset buttons.
order of removal and connect all connectors to the
Disconnect the battery negative cable, then under-dash fuse/relay box.
disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least
Install the dashboard lower cover.
three minutes.
Connect both the negative cable and positive cable
Remove the dashboard lower cover (see page 20-
to the battery.
88).
Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter
Disconnect the connectors from the fuse side of the
the customer’s radio station presets.
under-dash fuse/relay box.
Confirm that all systems work properly.
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Check for damage: If the case is cracked or the
terminals are loose, replace the battery.
:$51,1* Check indicator (for basic charge condition): Blue
A battery can explode if you do not follow the proper procedure, or Green is OK. If the indicator is red, peel the tape
causing serious injury to anyone nearby. off, remove the caps, and add distilled water; then
Follow all procedures carefully and keep sparks and open
flames away from the battery.
reinstall the caps and tape. If the indicator is clear,
go to step 3.
NOTE: Test battery load capacity by connecting a battery
To get accurate results, the temperature of the tester, and applying a load of three times the
electrolyte must be between 21 and 38°C (70 and battery ampere hour rating.
100°F) before testing.
When the load has been applied for exactly 15
The ECM/PCM memory must be reset after
seconds, the battery voltage reading should stay
reconnecting the battery (see page 11-4).
above 9.6 V.
7HVW(TXLSPHQW5HTXLUHG If the reading stays above 9.6 V, the battery is OK;
Battery Tester with: clean its terminals and case, and reinstall it.
Voltmeter with 0 - 18 V scale, ammeter with 0 - 100 A If the reading is between 6.5 and 9.6 V, connect a
and 0 -- 500 A scales, and a carbon pile with 0 - 300 W battery charger and charge the battery for 3 minutes
12 V Battery Charger: Fast charge capability of 50 A and at an initial rate of 40 amps.
slow charge capability of 5 A
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Amperage will drop as voltage increases; do not increase the
amperage to compensate or you may damage the battery.
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Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test
listed for it.
NOTE: See (see page 22A-104) for the turn signal/hazard
relay input test.
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A/C compressor clutch relay Normally-open
A/T reverse relay type A
Condenser fan relay
Front fog light relay
Headlight relay 1 W\SH
Headlight relay 2
Horn relay
PGM-FI main relay 1
Power window relay
Radiator fan relay
Rear accessory power socket relay
Seat heater main relay
Security horn relay
Starter cut relay (A/T)
Taillight relay
Blower motor relay Normally-open
Rear window defogger relay type B
PGM-FI main relay 2 Five terminal type 3*0),PDLQUHOD\
Key interlock relay W\SH
Shift lock relay
Sunroof open relay
Sunroof open relay
Security starter cut relay
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Check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2
terminals when power and ground are connected to the
No. 3 and No. 4 terminals.
There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and
No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected. W\SH
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Check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3
terminals when power and ground are connected to the
No. 2 and No. 4 terminals.
There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and
No. 3 terminals when power is disconnected.
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Check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2
terminals when power and ground are connected to the
No. 3 and No. 5 terminals.
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4
terminals when power is disconnected.
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The gauge assembly has a self-diagnosis function that checks these circuits:
The beeper drive circuit
The indicator drive circuit
The LCD segments
The gauges drive circuit (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
The communication line (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and the ECM/PCM)
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Before entering the self-diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Push and hold the trip/reset button.
Turn the headlights ON.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
With in 5 sec., turn the headlights OFF, then ON and OFF again.
With in 5 sec., release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times.
Note:
While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the Beeper Drive Circuit Test and the Gauge Drive
Circuit Check.
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.
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When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.
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When entering the self-diagnosis mode, these indicator lights blink:
Seat belt indicator light, Door indicator light, Brake system light, Charging system light, Low fuel indicator light, Tailgace
indicator light.
A/T gear position Indicator (except [3], [5], [1])
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When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segments blinks five times.
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When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the speedometer, the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature
gauge needles move from the minimum position to the maximum position, then return to the minimum position.
Note:
After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts
the Beeper Drive Circuit Check (one beep), and the Gauge Drive Circuit Check again.
The check cannot be started until the gauge needles return the minimum position.
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In the self-diagnosis mode, and after the odo/trip LCD Segments Check, the self-diagnosis starts the Communication Line
Check.
If all segments comes on, the communication line is OK.
If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex
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Note: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis function ends.
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Remove the driver’s dashboard lower cover (see
page 20-88), then remove the instrument panel Before testing, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-
(see page 20-87). hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the
Place a clean shop towel under the gauge assembly under-dash fuse/relay box.
to prevent scratching the steering column or
Start the engine, and check the malfunction
dashboard.
indicator lamp (MIL).
Remove the three mounting screws from the gauge 'RHVWKH0,/FRPHRQDQGVWD\RQ"
assembly (A).
<HV Troubleshoot the cause of the ECM/PCM
DTC (see page 11-62), and recheck.
1R Go to step 2.
Check for a multiplex control unit DTC (see page
22A-231).
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<HV Troubleshooting the cause of the multiplex
control unit DTC (see page 22A-231), and
recheck.
1R Go to step 3.
Do the communication line check with the self-
diagnosis procedure (see page 22A-66).
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Disconnect the connectors (B), and remove the <HV The gauge cannot receive the signal from the
gauge assembly. multiplex control unit and the ECM/PCM.
Install the gauge assembly in the reverse order of Check for an open in the GRY/RED wire
removal. (gauge connector terminal A1).
1R Go to step 4.
Do the gauge drive circuit check with the self-
diagnosis procedure (see page 22A-66).
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PLQLPXPSRVLWLRQWRWKHPD[LPXPWKHQUHWXUQWRWKH
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<HV Go to step 5.
1R Replace the gauge assembly.■
Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck.
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<HV Replace the ECM/PCM.
1R Substitute a known-good gauge assembly. If
the symptom/indication goes away, replace
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(cont’d)
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Before testing, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under- Remove the air cleaner (see page 11-182).
hood fuse/relay box and the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the
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speed sensor (VSS).
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<HV Troubleshoot the PCM DTC (see page 11-62),
and recheck.
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and recheck.■
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terminals look OK, substitute a known-good
gauge assembly and reset. If the problem is
fixed, replace the gauge assembly. If the
problem is not fixed, replace the PCM.■
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If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
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NOTE: Before testing, check for a blown No. 6 (7.5A) fuse Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between
in the under-dash fuse/relay box. the No. 2 terminal and body ground in position 0 of
the headlight adjuster switch.
Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the headlight
adjuster unit (B). ,VWKHUHDERXWΩ"
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the headlight adjuster unit. If the mechanical
check is OK, replace the headlight adjuster
unit.■
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An open in the BLU/BLK wire between the headlight
adjuster unit and headlight adjuster switch.
A faulty headlight adjuster switch.
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Resistance 4.2 3.6 3.2 2.8
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If the alignment pin (A) was broken in a collision and the Align the headlight housing with the flange (A)
headlight assembly itself was not damaged, the headlight before tightening the bolts.
assembly can be reused.
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Open the tailgate. Push in on the clips, and remove the cover (A) from
the housing (B).
Remove the rear side trim panel (see page 20-77).
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Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the taillight.
Disconnect the 2P connector (C).
Remove the mounting bolt covers from the taillight.
Remove the mounting nuts and the housing.
Remove the mounting bolts from the taillight.
Install the high mount broke light in the reverse
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Remove the license plate light (A) from the rear Remove the driver’s dashboard lower cover (see
bumper. page 20-88).
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pedal position switch (B).
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Remove the front bumper (see page 20-130). Before adjusting the fog lights:
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front fog Park the vehicle on a level surface.
light.
Make sure the tire pressures are correct.
Remove the screw and mounting bolts from the
The driver or someone who weights the same should sit
front fog light (B).
in the driver’s seat.
Adjust the fog lights to local requirements by turning the
adjuster (A).
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Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (B).
Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
Make these input tests at the fuse/relay box.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it.
1 Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: Poor ground (G301)
There should be continuity. An open in the wire
3 Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 19 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash
Hazard warning switch OFF There should be battery voltage. fuse/relay box
Faulty hazard warning switch
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Hazard warning switch ON Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 5 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
Ignition switch OFF There should be battery voltage. fuse/relay box
Faulty hazard warning switch
An open in the wire
2 Ignition switch ON (II) and Connect No. 2 terminal to No. 3 Poor ground (G201, G301, G502, G601)
turn signal switch in Right or terminal: Faulty turn signal switch
Left position Right or left turn signal lights should An open in the wire
come on.
Hazard warning switch ON Connect No. 2 terminal to No. 3 Poor ground (G201, G301, G502, G601)
terminal: Faulty hazard warning switch
Hazard warning lights should come on. An open in the wire
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Carefully pry off the lens (A) with a small Carefully pry off the lenses (A) with a small
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Remove the tailgate lower trim panel (see page 20- Open the tailgate.
80).
Remove the mounting screw from the tailgate
Push the hatch glass opener switch, and open the switch.
hatch glass.
Disconnect the connector (A) from the tailgate
Disconnect the connector (A) from the hatch glass switch (B).
opener (B).
Check for continuity between the opener switch Check for continuity between the tailgate switch
positive terminal (C) and body ground. positive terminal (C) and body ground.
There should be continuity with the hatch glass There should be continuity with the switch released
opened. (tailgate open position).
There should be no continuity with the hatch glass There should be no continuity with the switch
closed. pushed (tailgate open position).
If the continuity is not as specified, replace the If the continuity is not as specified, replace the
hatch glass latch switch. tailgate switch.
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NOTE: For more key-in beeper information, refer to the Remove the steering column upper and lower
circuit diagram (see page 22A-112) and input test (see covers (see page 17-24).
page 22A-114).
Disconnect the 6P connector.
When the ignition key is in the ignition switch, the key-in
beeper circuit of multiplex control unit senses ground
through the closed ignition key switch. When you open the
driver’s door, the beeper circuit senses ground through the
closed door switch. When both switches are closed
(driver’s door and ignition), the key-in beeper in the gauge
assembly is activated.
Remove the steering column upper and lower
covers (see page 17-24).
Disconnect the 6P connector.
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Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see page 22A-235).
Remove the dashboard lower cover.
Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.
NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
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With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
K2 BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the K2 terminal and the
keyless receiver unit 5P
connector No. 2 terminal:
There should be continuity.
X8 WHT/BLK Under all conditions Attach to ground: Blown No. 3 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
Ignition key light should come fuse/relay box
on. Faulty ignition key light
An open in the wire
Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make sure these input tests at the appropriate
connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box
assembly.
P18 RED Tailgate lid open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q3 GRN Driver’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Driver’s door closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q4 LT GRN/ Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: Faulty front passenger’s door switch
RED open There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: Faulty front passenger’s door switch
closed There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Left (right) rear door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty left (right) rear door switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Left (right) rear door Check for voltage to ground: Faulty left (right) rear door switch
closed There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
X5 RED/WHT Ignition key inserted into Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G401)
the ignition switch There should be 1 V or less. Faulty ignition key switch
An open in the wire
Ignition key removed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty ignition key switch
from the ignition switch There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y8 YEL/RED Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch locked There should be 1 V or less. Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
switch unlocked There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
O7 GRN/RED Ceiling light switch in Attach to ground: Blown No. 3 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
middle position, all door Ceiling light(s) should come fuse/relay box
closed on. Blown bulb
Faulty ceiling light
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Remove the door panel (see page 20-9). Remove the tweeter speaker grille (A) and tweeter
(B) as an assembly.
Push down on the clip, then pull the top of the
speaker (A) straight out just enough to release the Disconnect the 2P connector (C) from the tweeter.
upper clip. If you pull the speaker out too far, you
Remove the tweeter speaker grille from the
will damage the lower clips (C). Then lift the
tweeter.
speaker straight up to release the lower clips.
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Remove the right rear side trim panel (see page 20-
77).
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the noise
condenser.
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Remove the driver’s switch panel (A) (see page 20- %RWKPLUURUV
9).
Check for voltage between the No. 2 terminal and
body ground with the ignition switch ON (II).
There should be battery voltage.
If there is no battery voltage, check for:
– blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/
relay box.
– an open in the BLK/YEL wire.
If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
Check for continuity between the No. 6 terminal
and body ground.
There should be continuity.
If there is no continuity, check for:
– an open in the BLK wire.
– poor ground (G501).
If there is continuity, check both mirrors individually
as described in the next column.
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Connect the No. 2 terminal to the No. 10 terminal,
Wire side of and the No. 5 (or No. 12) terminal to No. 6 terminal
female terminals with jumper wires. The left mirror should tilt down
(or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).
If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing
left), check for an open in the GRN/WHT (or BLU/
WHT) wire between the left mirror and the 13P
connector. If the wire is OK, check the left mirror
actuator.
*1 : With defogger If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair
*2 : With retract mirror the BLU/BLK wire.
If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the switch 5LJKWPLUURU
(B).
Connect the No. 2 terminal to the No. 11 terminal,
Choose the appropriate test based on the and the No. 5 (or No. 13) terminal to No. 6 terminal
symptom: with jumper wires. The right mirror should tilt down
Both mirrors don’t work, go to step 4. (or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).
Left mirror doesn’t work, go to step 6. If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing
Right mirror doesn’t work, go to step 7. left), check for an open in the GRN/WHT (or WHT/
RED) wire between the right mirror and the 13P
Defoggers don’t work, go to step 8.
connector. If the wire is OK, check the right mirror
Retract actuators don’t work, go to step 9. actuator.
If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair
the RED/YEL wire.
If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
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Connect the No. 1 and No. 8 terminals with a
jumper wire, and check for voltage between the
BLK wire terminal of the mirror connector and body
ground. There should be battery voltage and both
mirrors should warm up with the ignition switch ON
(II).
If there is no voltage or neither warms up, check for:
– an open in the BLK/YEL or ORN wire.
– blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/
relay box.
If only one fails to warm up, check its defogger.
– poor ground (G501, G502).
If both warm up, check the defogger switch.
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Connect the No. 2 terminal to the No. 7 (or No. 8)
terminal with a jumper wire. The mirrors should
retract (or extend) when the ignition switch is
turned back and forth between ON (II) and OFF.
If the mirrors neither retract nor extend, check for an
open in the RED/BLU or RED/WHT wire between
the switch and the mirrors.
If one of the mirrors does not retract or extend,
check the retractable mirror actuator.
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Remove the driver’s switch panel (see page 20-9). Check for continuity between the terminals in each
switch position according to the table.
Remove the power mirror switch (A).
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Remove the door panel (see page 20-9). Check actuator operation by connecting battery
power and ground according to the table.
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Remove the mirror holder, and disconnect the Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror
mirror defogger connectors* (see page 20-40). housing (A) from the bracket (B).
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With defogger
Remove the power mirror (see page 20-39).
Disconnect the 3P or 6P connector from the mirror.
Remove the screw from the harness clip (A).
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Route the wire harness (A) of the new actuator Insert the new actuator terminals into the connector
through the hole in the bracket (B) and gasket (C). in the original arrangement as shown below.
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Remove the front bumper (see page 20-130).
Disconnect the 1P connector (A), and remove the
horn (B).
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Remove the steering column covers (see page 17- Remove the driver’s airbag assembly (see page
24). 23-135).
Disconnect the dashboard wire harness B 5P Disconnect the horn switch positive terminal 1P
connector (A) from the cable reel (B). connector.
Check for continuity between the cable reel No.2
terminal (A) and the horn switch positive terminal
(B).
If there is no continuity, replace the cable reel (see
page 23-141).
If there is continuity, the cable reel OK, check the
steering wheel, the horn switch, and the steering
column (ground path).
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NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver’s window
operations.
Remove the switch panel from the door panel (see page 20-9).
Disconnect the 20P connector (A) from the master switch (B).
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
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– If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 4.
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If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
4[6] BLK Ignition switch ON (II), Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
and the master switch ON There should be less than 1 V. An open in the wire
8[2]
14 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 23 (20A) fuse in the under-dash
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
5 YEL/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 6 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Blown No. 22, 24 or 25 (20A) fuse in the
2[8] GRN/BLK under-dash fuse/relay box
18 YEL/RED Faulty power window relay
An open in the wire
11 YEL/BLU
6[4] RED/YEL Connect the No. 14 and Check for driver’s window Faulty driver’s window motor
No. 6 [No. 4] terminals, motor operation: An open in the wire
7[3] RED/BLK
and the No. 7 [No. 3] and It should run (the driver’s
No. 4 [No. 6] terminals, window moves down).
and turn the ignition
switch ON (II).
1[9] BLU/RED Connect the No. 2 and Check for front passenger’s Faulty front passenger’s window motor
No. 3 [No. 7] terminals, window motor operation: Faulty front passenger’s window switch
3[7] BLU/WHT An open in the wire
and the No. 1 [No. 9] and It should run (the front
No. 8 [No. 2] terminals, passenger’s window moves
and turn the ignition down).
switch ON (II).
19 BLU/BLK Connect the No. 18 and Check for left rear window Faulty left rear window motor
No. 17 terminals, and the motor operation: Faulty left rear window switch
17 BRN An open in the wire
No. 19 and No. 8[No. It should run (the left rear
2]terminals, and turn the window moves down).
ignition switch ON (II).
12 BLU/ORN Connect the No. 11 and Check for right rear window Faulty right rear window motor
No. 10 terminals, and the motor operation: Faulty right rear window switch
10 BLU/YEL An open in the wire
No. 12 and No. 8 [No. It should run (the right rear
2]terminals, and turn the window moves down).
ignition switch ON (II).
Disconnect the 20P connector from the switch connector, and make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.
16 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Faulty power window master switch
There should be battery An open in the wire
voltage.
9[1] LT GRN Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: An open in the wire
There should be battery
voltage.
20 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), Check for voltage between the Blown No. 23 (20A) fuse in the under-dash
and the driver’s window No. 20 and No. 4 [No. 1] fuse/relay box
switch AUTO DOWN terminals: Faulty power window relay
There should be 0 V - about 5 Faulty power window master switch
An open in the wire
V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly.
13 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), Check for voltage between the
and the driver’s window No. 13 and No. 4 [No. 1]
switch AUTO DOWN terminals:
There should be 0 V - about 5
V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly.
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NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver’s window
operations.
Remove the switch panel from the door panel (see page 20-9).
Disconnect the 20P connector (A) from the master switch (B).
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the connector.
– If a test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
– If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 4.
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With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
4[6] BLK Under all condition Check for continuity to ground: Poor ground (G501)
There should be continuity. An open in the wire
8[2]
14 GRN/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 6 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash
There should be battery fuse/relay box
2[8] GRN/BLK Blown No. 22, 24 or 25 (20A) fuse in the
voltage.
18 YEL/RED under-dash fuse/relay box
Faulty power window relay
11 YEL/BLU An open in the wire
6[4] RED/YEL Connect the No. 14 and Check for driver’s window Faulty driver’s window motor
No. 6 [No. 4] terminals, motor operation: An open in the wire
7[3] RED/BLK
and the No. 7 [No. 3] and It should run (the driver’s
No. 4 [No. 6] terminals, window moves down).
and turn the ignition
switch ON (II).
1[9] BLU/RED Connect the No. 2 and Check for front passenger’s Faulty front passenger’s window motor
No. 3 [No. 7] terminals, window motor operation: Faulty front passenger’s window switch
3[7] BLU/WHT An open in the wire
and the No. 1 [No. 9] and It should run (the front
No. 8 [No. 2] terminals, passenger’s window moves
and turn the ignition down).
switch ON (II).
19 BLU/BLK Connect the No. 18 and Check for left rear window Faulty left rear window motor
No. 17 terminals, and the motor operation: Faulty left rear window switch
17 BRN An open in the wire
No. 19 and No. 8 [No. 2] It should run (the left rear
terminals, and turn the window moves down).
ignition switch ON (II).
12 BLU/ORN Connect the No. 11 and Check for right rear window Faulty right rear window motor
No. 10 terminals, and the motor operation: Faulty right rear window switch
10 BLU/YEL An open in the wire
No. 12 and No. 8 [No. 2] It should run (the right rear
terminals, and turn the window moves down).
ignition switch ON (II).
Reconnect the 20P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.
20 RED/WHT Connect the No. 14 and Check for voltage between the Faulty driver’s window motor
No. 6 [No. 4] terminals, No. 20 and No. 4 [No. 6] An open in the wire
and the No. 7 [No. 3] and terminals:
No. 4 [No. 6] terminals, About 6 V should be indicated
and turn the ignition while the driver’s window motor
switch ON (II). running.
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Remove the switch panel from the door panel (see Check for continuity between the terminals in each
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Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-9). Reconnect the 6P connector to the window motor,
and reconnect the 14P connector to the power
Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the driver’s
window master switch.
window motor.
Check for voltage between the terminals.
There should be battery voltage between the No. 6
(+) and No. 4 (-) terminals when the ignition switch
is turned ON (II).
Terminal side of male
terminals Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 5 (+)
and No. 4 (-) terminals, and run the window motor
down or up. The voltmeter needle should move
back and forth alternately between 0 V and about 5
V (a digital voltmeter should show about 2.5 V).
Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 3 (+)
and No. 4 (-) terminals, and run the window motor
down or up. The voltmeter needle should move
back and forth alternately between 0 V and about 5
V (a digital voltmeter should show about 2.5 V).
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Remove the door panel (see page 20-9). Remove the 4P conector to the driver’s window
motor, and reconnect the 20P connector to the
Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the driver’s
power window master switch.
window motor.
Connect the test leads of a voltmeter to the No. 3
Terminal side of male terminals and No. 4 terminals of the driver’s window motor 4P
connector.
Run the motor by connecting power and ground to
the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals. The voltmeter
should read about 6 V.
If the voltage is not as specified, check for an open
in the wires. If the wires are OK, replace the driver’s
window motor.
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Remove the passenger’s door panel (see page 20- Test the motor in each direction by connecting
9). battery power and ground according to the table.
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the 127,&(
passenger’s power window motor. To prevent damage to the motor, disconnect one lead
as soon as the motor stops running.
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Resetting the power window control unit is required after performing the following procedures:
Loss of battery power
Loss of power from the No. 6 (7.5A) and/or the No. 23 (20A) fuses in the under-dash fuse/relay box
Open circuit caused by disconnecting the 20P connector from the power window master switch
Removal of the regulator, glass, or glass run channel
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Remove the heater control panel or climate control unit (see page 21-24).
Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the keyless receiver unit (B).
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals are OK, go to step 5.
Reconnect the connector, and make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
1 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to Poor ground (G502)
ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
3 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
Ignition switch OFF Check for voltage to ground: Short to power on No. 10 (7.5A) fuse circuit
There should be no voltage.
5 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
Disconnect the connector, and make this input test at the connector.
If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If the input test prove OK, replace the keyless receiver unit.
2 BLU/ORN Ignition switch OFF, Check for continuity between An open in the wire
under-dash fuse/relay the No. 2 terminal and the No. A short to ground in the wire
box connector K (17P) 2 terminal of the under-dash
disconnected fuse/relay box connector K
(17P).
There should be continuity.
Check for continuity between
the No. 2 terminal and body
ground:
There should be no
continuity.
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NOTE: For the hatch glass unlock button test, refer to the rear wiper control unit input test (see page 22A-220).
Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see page 22A-231).
Remove the dashboard lower cover.
Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.
NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
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With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
J4 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to Poor ground (G301)
ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
J2 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
J7 WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
M7 YEL/BLK Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
M6 [or M9] terminal, and The driver’s door lock fuse/relay box
M9 YEL/GRN Faulty driver’s door lock actuator
M9 [or M6] terminal to F3 actuator should lock [or
terminal. unlock]. An open in the wire
M6 YEL/BLK Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
M7 [or M8] terminal, and The front passenger’s door fuse/relay box
M8 YEL Faulty front passenger’s door lock actuator
M8 [or M7] terminal to F3 lock actuator should lock [or
terminal. unlock]. An open in the wire
P16 YEL Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
P17 [or P16] terminal, The both rear door lock fuse/relay box
P17 YEL/BLK Faulty left or right door lock actuator
and P16 [or P17] terminal actuator should lock [or
to F3 terminal. unlock]. An open in the wire
K2 BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the K2 terminal and the
keyless receiver unit 5P
connector No. 2 terminal with
5P connector disconnected:
There should be continuity.
Y2* BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the Y2 terminal and the
security control unit A17
terminal with the security
control unit 20P connector
disconnected:
There should be continuity.
Y3* LT GRN/ Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
BLK the Y3 terminal and the
security control unit A6
terminal with the security
control unit 20P connector
disconnected:
There should be continuity.
(cont’d)
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Reconnect all connections to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make sure these input tests at the appropriate
connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box
assembly.
P18 RED Tailgate open Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601 or G553)
There should be 1 V or less. Faulty trunk or tailgate switch
An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty trunk switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q3 GRN Driver’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Driver’s door closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q4 LT GRN/ Passenger’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
RED There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Passenger’s door closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
X5 RED/WHT Ignition key inserted into Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G401)
the ignition switch There should be 1 V or less. Faulty ignition key switch
An open in the wire
Ignition key removed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty ignition key switch
from the ignition switch There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y7 WHT/BLK Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch unlocked There should be less than 1 Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
V. An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
switch locked There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y8 YEL/RED Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch locked There should be 1 V or less. Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
switch unlocked There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y10 WHT/GRN Driver’s door lock switch Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
unlocked There should be 1 V or less. Faulty driver’s door lock switch
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock switch Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock switch
in neutral There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y12 WHT/BLU Driver’s door lock switch Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
locked There should be 1 V or less. Faulty driver’s door lock switch
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock switch Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock switch
in neutral There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
P2 BLK/YEL Press the keyless Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
transmitter hatch glass There should be battery Faulty hatch glass opener actuator
unlock button voltage for a moment. An open in a wire
C11 BLU Under all conditions Attach to ground: Blown No. 2 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
Parking, side marker, license fuse/relay box
plate lights and taillights Faulty taillight relay
should come on. Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
An open in the wire
F7 BLU/RED Under all conditions Attach to ground: Blown No. 15 or 17 (15A) fuse in the
Headlights should come on. under-hood fuse/relay box
Faulty headlight relay 1 or 2
An open in the wire
J6 ORN Under all conditions Attach to ground: Blown No. 7 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
The horn should sound. fuse/relay box
Faulty horn relay
Faulty horn
An open in the wire
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NOTE: For the hatch glass unlock button test, refer to the rear wiper control unit input test (see page 22A-220).
Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see page 22A-231).
Remove the dashboard lower cover.
Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.
NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
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Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
J2 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
J7 WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
K2 BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the K2 terminal and the
keyless receiver unit 5P
connector No. 2 terminal with
the 5P connector
disconnected:
There should be continuity.
M6 YEL/BLK Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
M7 [or M8] terminal, and The front passenger’s door fuse/relay box
M8 YEL Faulty actuator
M8 [or M7] terminal to F3 lock actuator should lock [or
terminal. unlock]. Faulty super locking control unit
An open in the wire
M7 YEL/BLK Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
M6 [or M9] terminal, and The driver’s door lock fuse/relay box
M9 YEL/GRN Faulty actuator
M9 [or M6] terminal to F3 actuator should lock [or
terminal. unlock]. Faulty super locking control unit
An open in the wire
P17 YEL/BLK Connect J7 terminal to Check actuator operation: Blown No. 16 (20A) fuse in the under-hood
P17 [or P16] terminal, The left rear door, right rear fuse/relay box
P16 YEL Faulty actuator
and P16 [or P17] terminal door and tailgate lock
to F3 terminal. actuator should lock [or Faulty left rear or right rear super locking
control unit.
unlock]. An open in the wire
J4 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to Poor ground (G301)
ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
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Reconnect all connector to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make sure these input tests at the appropriate
connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box
assembly.
P18 RED Tailgate open Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601)
There should be 1 V or less. Faulty tailgate latch switch
An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
X5 RED/WHT Ignition key inserted into Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G401)
the ignition switch There should be 1 V or less. Faulty ignition key switch
An open in the wire
Ignition key removed Check for voltage to ground:
from the ignition switch There should be 5 V or more.
Q3 GRN Driver’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Driver’s door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
Q4 LT GRN/ Passengers door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
RED There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Passenger’s door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
Y4 BLU Front passenger’s, Check for voltage to ground: Faulty front passenger’s, tailgate, left rear
tailgate, left rear or right There should be 1 V or less. or right rear door lock knob switch
rear door lock knob Poor ground (G502, G551, G552, G601,
switch unlocked G701)
An open in the wire
X6 WHT/RED Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door key cylinder switch
switch lock There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G501)
An open in the wire
Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground:
switch in neutral There should be 5 V or more.
Y13 WHT Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground:
switch unlocked There should be 1 V or less.
Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground:
switch in neutral There should be 5 V or more.
Y7 WHT/BLK Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch unlocked There should be less than 1 Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
V. An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
switch locked There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y8 YEL/RED Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch locked There should be 1 V or less. Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
switch unlocked There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Y2 BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the Y2 terminal and the
security control unit A17
terminal with the security
control unit 20P connector
disconnected:
There should be continuity.
Y3 LT GRN/ Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
BLK the Y3 terminal and the
security control unit A6
terminal with the security
control unit 20P connector
disconnected:
There should be continuity.
P2 BLK/YEL Press the keyless Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
transmitter hatch glass There should be battery Faulty hatch glass opener actuator
unlock button voltage for a moment. An open in a wire
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3 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to Poor ground (G501, G502, G551, G552)
ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
2 YEL/BLK Connect the No. 2 Check actuator operation: Faulty door lock actuator
terminal to the No. 7 The actuator should lock. An open in the wire
7 LT GRN
[GRY] terminal and the No. 6
terminal to the No. 3
terminal momentarily with
ignition switch ON (II)
5 YEL/GRN Connect the No. 5 Check actuator operation:
[YEL] terminal to the No. 6 The actuator should unlock.
6 GRN/BLK terminal and the No. 7
[GRN/WHT terminal to the No. 3
or GRN/ terminal momentarily with
RED] ignition switch ON (II)
4 BLU/BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
[BLU/WHT the No. 4 terminal and No. 2
or BLU/ terminal of the actuator.
RED] There should be continuity.
[ ]: Passenger’s
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Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-9). Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-9).
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the actuator. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the actuator.
Check actuator operation by connecting power and Check actuator operation by connecting power and
ground according to the table. To prevent damage ground according to the table. To prevent damage
to the actuator, apply battery voltage only to the actuator, apply battery voltage only
momentarily. momentarily.
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Remove the passenger’s door panel (see page 20- Remove the passenger’s door panel (see page 20-
9). 9).
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the actuator. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the actuator.
Check actuator operation by connecting power and Check actuator operation by connecting power and
ground according to the table. To prevent damage ground according to the table. To prevent damage
to the actuator, apply battery voltage only to the actuator, apply battery voltage only
momentarily. momentarily.
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If the actuator does not work as specified, replace If the actuator does not work as specified, replace
it. it.
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If the ray indicator light comes on, the transmitter is OK. Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: When the transmitter battery was replaced, aim the Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
transmitter at the receiver, and press the transmitter button Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or
six times. The receiver is located behind the center lower unlock button.
panel. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock
actuators when you press the sixth time. Within 1 to 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the transmitter lock or
unlock button.
Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock
actuators. Within 1 to 4 seconds, push the
transmitter lock or unlock button again.
Within 10 seconds, press the transmitter lock or
unlock buttons on the two additional transmitters.
Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door
lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the key.
Confirm proper operation of the transmitters.
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Remove the tailgate lower trim panel (see page 20- Remove the tailgate lower trim panel (see page 20-
80). 80).
Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator. Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator.
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Remove the tailgate lower trim panel (see page 20-
80). Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-76).
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the latch Disconnect the 2P connector from the opener
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Remove the front seat (see page 20-103). Remove the front seat (see page 20-103).
Disconnect the seat heater harness 2P connector Disconnect the 6P connector from the seat heater
(A) from the seat sub-harness and the 6P relay (A).
connector (B) from the seat heater relay (C).
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The vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer system (Type III) that will disable the vehicle unless the proper ignition key is
used.
This system consists of a transponder located in the ignition key, an immobilizer control unit-receiver, an indicator light, the
multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.
When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends
power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer
control unit-receiver to the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then energizes the fuel supply system.
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If the proper key has been used, the immobilizer indicator light will come on for about 2 seconds, then go off.
If the wrong key has been used whose code was not received or recognized by the unit, the indicator light will come on for
about 2 seconds, then it will blink until the ignition switch is turned OFF. The engine will crank but not start.
If the ignition switch is turned OFF, the indicator will blink for about 5 seconds to signal that the unit has been set correctly,
then the indicator will go off.
If the customer has lost his key, and cannot start the engine, contact Honda Customer Relations.
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Before troubleshooting the immobilizer system, Check for voltage between the immobilizer control
troubleshoot any ECM/PCM with diagnostic trouble codes unit-receiver 7P connector No. 7 terminal and body
(DTCs) (see page 11-62),and make sure the ECM/PCM ground.
has no malfunction. ,VWKHUHEDWWHU\YROWDJH"
Note these items before troubleshooting: <HV Go to step 6.
Due to the action of the immobilizer system, the engine 1R Check for these problems:■
takes slightly more time to start than on a vehicle without
an immobilizer system. Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay
When the system is normal, and the proper key is box.
inserted, the indicator light comes on for 2 seconds, then An open in the WHT/RED wire.
it will go off. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control
If the indicator starts to blink after 2 seconds, or if the unit-receiver 7P connector No. 6 terminal and body
engine does not start, repeat the starting procedure. If ground with the ignition switch 0N (II).
the engine still does not start, continue with this
,VWKHUHEDWWHU\YROWDJH"
procedure.
<HV Go to step 7.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with programmed
key. 1R Check for these problems:
Blown No. 6 (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay
Check to see if the immobilizer indicator light
box.
comes on.
Faulty PGM-FI main relay 1.
'RHVWKHLQGLFDWRUOLJKWEOLQN" An open in the YEL/BLK wire.
<HV Go to step 3. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control-
1R Check for these problems:■ unit receiver 7P connector No. 4 terminal and body
ground with the parking brake lever pulled, then
Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay released.
box.
An open in the BLU/ORN wire between the gauge ,VWKHUH9RUOHVVWKHQ9RUPRUH"
assembly and the immobilizer control unit-receiver. <HV Go to step 8.
A faulty immobilizer indicator light.
An open in the WHT/RED wire between the gauge 1R Check for these problems:■
assembly and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Faulty parking brake switch or a poor body ground
of the parking brake switch.
Remove the steering column covers (see page 17-
Faulty brake fluid level switch.
24).
An open in the GRN/RED wire.
Disconnect the 7P connector from the immobilizer
control unit-receiver.
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Check for continuity between the immobilizer
control unit-receiver 7P connector No. 1 terminal Remove the dashboard lower cover.
and body ground.
Remove the steering column covers (see page 17-
,VWKHUHYROWDJH"
24).
<HV Go to step 9.
Disconnect the connector (A) from the immobilizer
1R Check for these problems:■ control unit-receiver (B).
Poor ground (G101).
Faulty ECM/PCM.
An open in the BRN/YEL wire.
Check for continuity between the immobilizer
control unit-receiver 7P connector No. 2 terminal
and ECM/PCM terminal E27.
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<HV Go to step 10.
1R Repair open in the WHT wire.■
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Disconnect the ECM/PCM connector E.
Remove the two screws and the immobilizer
Check for continuity between the immobilizer control unit-receiver from the ignition key cylinder
control unit-receiver 7P connector No. 2 terminal (C).
and body ground.
Install the immobilizer control unit-receiver in the
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reverse order of removal.
<HV Repair short to ground in the WHT wire.■ After replacement, register the immobilizer control
1R Go to step 13. unit-receiver with PGM-Tester, then check the
immobilizer system.
Check for continuity between the immobilizer
control unit-receiver 7P connector No. 4 terminal
and the multiplex control unit (under-dash fuse/
relay box connector terminal C3).
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<HV Replace the immobilizer control unit-receiver.
After replacing the immobilizer control unit-
receiver, rewrite the unit with a Honda PGM-
Tester.■
1R Repair open in the WHT wire. If the harness is
OK, check to see if there is any Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) for the multiplex control
unit. If it is, troubleshoot the multiplex control
unit (see page 22A-231), then recheck.■
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The security alarm system is armed automatically after the
doors, hood, and trunk or tailgate are closed and locked.
The security indicator on the gauge assembly flashes after
the system is armed.
The system is set off when any of these things occur.
A door is forced open
A door is unlocked without using the key or the
transmitter
The trunk lid or tailgate is opened without using the key
The hood is opened
The engine starter circuit and battery circuit are
bypassed by breaking the ignition switch (KH, PH and
KK models)
When the system is set off, the alarm sounds and the
exterior lights (headlights, parking lights and taillights: FO
model or turn signal lights: except (FO model) flash for 2
minutes (FO model) or 30 seconds (Except FO model) or
until the system is disarmed by unlocking either door with
the key or the transmitter.
For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off and
the key removed. Then, the security control unit must
receive signals that the doors, hood, and trunk lid or
tailgate are closed and locked. When everything is closed
and locked, none of the control unit inputs are grounded.
The door switches, hood switch, trunk latch switch or
tailgate latch switch, door lock knob switches, and door
lock key cylinder switches are all open,. 10 seconds after
the doors are locked with the key or the lock knob, or
immediately after locking the doors with the remote
transmitter, the system arms.
If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the
system is armed, the control unit gets a ground signal from
that switch, and the system is set off.
If one of the switches is misadjusted or there is a short in
the system, the system will not arm. As long as the control
unit continues to get a ground signal, it thinks the vehicle is
not closed and locked and will not arm.
An alarm that sounds for no apparent reason may have
been set off by switch that is on the threshold of
misadjustment. In this case, it may only take a significant
change in outside temperature, the vibration of a passing
truck, or someone bumping into the vehicle to make the
alarm sound.
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If any tests indicate a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
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B8 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-
There should be battery voltage. hood fuse/relay box
An open in the wire
B7 WHT/BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 5 (15A) fuse in the under-
There should be battery voltage. hood fuse/relay box
An open in the wire
A11 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-
There should be battery voltage. dash fuse/relay box
An open in the wire
B16 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: Poor ground (G501)
There should be continuity. An open in the wire
B13 BLK/YEL Under all conditions Attach to ground: Blown No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-
The security indicator should dash fuse/relay box
come on. Faulty gauge assembly
An open in the wire
B2 GRN Under all conditions Attach to ground: Security horn Blown No. 7 (15A) fuse in the under-
should sound. hood fuse/relay box
Faulty security horn relay
Faulty security horn
An open in the wire
B4 BLU/RED Under all conditions Attach to ground: Headlights Faulty headlight relay 1 or 2
should come on. An open in the wire
B5 BLU Under all conditions Attach to ground: The taillights Faulty taillight relay
should come on. An open in the wire
B9 RED/WHT Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: Poor ground (G503)
There should be continuity. Faulty audio unit
An open in the wire
A6 LT GRN/ Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: An open in the wire
BLK There should be continuity.
A17 BLU/ORN Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
B1 RED/YEL Ignition switch START Starting the engine Faulty security starter cut relay
(III) An open in the wire
B14 GRN/RED Ignition switch OFF Attach to ground: The turn Blown No. 5 (15A) fuse in the under-
signal lights should come on. hood fuse/relay box
B6 GRN/YEL Ignition switch OFF Faulty turn signal switch
Faulty turn signal/hazard relay
An open in the wire
Reconnect the connectors to the security control unit, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate
connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If the input tests prove OK, the security control unit internal circuit must be faulty.
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A20 GRN Driver’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be less than 1 V. An open in the wire
Driver’s door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
A9 LT GRN/ Passenger’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
RED There should be less than 1 V. An open in the wire
Passenger’s door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
B15 RED Tailgate open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate switch
There should be less than 1 V. An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
A7 GRN/WHT Hatch glass open Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
There should be less than 1 V. Faulty hatch glass latch switch
An open in the wire
Hatch glass closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
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A8 RED/WHT Ignition key is in the Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G401)
ignition switch There should be 1 V or less. Faulty ignition key switch
An open in the wire
Ignition key is out of the Check for voltage to ground:
ignition switch There should be 5 V or more.
A18 GRN/BLK Hood open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty hood switch
There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G201)
An open in the wire
Hood closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
A1 WHT/BLK Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door lock knob switch
unlocked There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G501)
An open in the wire
Driver’s door lock knob Check for voltage to ground:
locked There should be 5 V or more.
A12 BLU Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: Faulty front passenger’s door lock knob
lock knob unlocked There should be 1 V or less. switch
Poor ground (G502)
Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: An open in the wire
lock knob locked There should be 5 V or more.
Left rear door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty left rear door lock knob switch
unlocked There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G551)
An open in the wire
Left rear door lock knob Check for voltage to ground:
locked There should be 5 V or more.
Right rear door lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty right rear door lock knob switch
unlocked There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G552)
An open in the wire
Right rear door lock knob Check for voltage to ground:
locked There should be 5 V or more.
Tailgate lock knob Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate lock knob switch
unlocked There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G601)
An open in the wire
Tailgate lock knob locked Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
A16 BLK/YEL Hatch glass open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty hatch glass opener actuator
There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G601, G701)
An open in the wire
Hatch glass closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
A4 WHT/RED Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door key cylinder switch
locked There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G501)
An open in the wire
Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground: A short to ground
in neutral There should be 5 V or more.
A3 WHT Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground:
• unlocked There should be 1 V or less.
B3 Driver’s door key cylinder Check for voltage to ground:
in neutral There should be 5 V or more.
A15 PNK Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: Faulty front passenger’s door key cylinder
key cylinder locked There should be 1 V or less. switch
Poor ground (G502)
Front passenger’s door Check for voltage to ground: An open in the wire
key cylinder in neutral There should be 5 V or more. A short to ground
A14 PNK/BLU Front passenger's door Check for voltage to ground:
• key cylinder unlocked There should be 1 V or less.
B10 Front passenger's door Check for voltage to ground:
key cylinder in neutral There should be 5 V or more.
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Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-9). Remove the passenger’s door panel (see page 20-
9).
Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the super
locking actuator. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the super
locking actuator.
Check for continuity between the terminals. Check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity between the No. 3 and There should be continuity between the No. 1 and
No. 4 terminals when the door lock knob switch is No. 4 terminals when the door lock knob switch is
LOCK position. UNLOCK position.
There should be continuity between the No. 1 and If the continuity is not as specified, replace the
No. 4 terminals when the door lock knob switch is super locking actuator.
UNLOCK position.
If the continuity is not as specified, replace the
super locking actuator.
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Remove the driver’s door panel (see page 20-9). Remove the passenger’s door panel (see page 20-
9).
Identify the type of door lock actuator (see page 20-
14). Identify the type of door lock actuator (see page 20-
14).
Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator
(B). Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the actuator.
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Open the hood. Remove the door panel (see page 20-9).
Disconnect the 2P connector from the hood switch. Disconnect the 3P connector from the key cylinder
switch.
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Open the tailgate and remove the tailgate trim Remove the front bumper (see page 20-130).
panel (see page 20-80).
Disconnect the 1P connector from the horn.
Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the tailgate
knob switch (B).
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Rear window wiper switch ON: The wiper operates every seven seconds after completing two sweeps.
Rear window wiper switch OFF: The wiper returns to the park position.
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Rear window wiper switch ON: The wiper operates continuously while the washer switch is ON.
Rear window wiper switch OFF: After switching OFF the washer switch, the wiper returns to the park position after
completing two sweeps.
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Lock Function: The rear window wiper will not operate if the hatch glass is open.
Emergency Stop Function: If the hatch glass is opened while the rear window wiper is operating, it will automatically stop.
Automatic Park Function: If the ignition switch is turned OFF while the rear window wiper is operating, the wiper will return to
the park position.
NOTE: To avoid interference with the vehicle’s spare tire, the rear wiper does not fold out as on previous models.
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Remove the two screws, then pull out the wiper/washer switch.
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Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables. If
the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.
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Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see page 22A-231).
Remove the dashboard lower cover.
Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors B, F, G, J, X and Y.
NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.
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If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals are OK, go to step 5.
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Reconnect the connectors, and make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box
assembly.
J4 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G301)
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Y6 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G502)
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
B1 WHT/BLU Ignition switch ON (II) and Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G301)
• washer switch ON There should be battery Blown No. 20 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash
F6 voltage. fuse/relay box
Check windshield washer Faulty wiper/washer switch
Faulty windshield washer motor
motor operation: An open in the wire
The washer motor should run.
B6 BLU/RED Ignition switch ON (II), Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 20 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash
wiper switch in OFF or There should be battery fuse/relay box
INT, jump B6 to ground. voltage. Faulty wiper/washer switch
Check wiper motor operation: Faulty windshield wiper motor
An open in the wire
The wiper motor should run at
low speed.
G7 BLU/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) and Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 20 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash
wipers in park position. There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Faulty windshield wiper motor
An open in the wire
X7 BLU/BLK Ignition switch ON (II) and Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 20 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash
wiper switch in INT There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Faulty wiper/washer switch
An open in the wire
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
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With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, replace the headlight washer control unit.
2 RED/YEL Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 14 (40A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Blown No. 15 (30A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box
An open in the wire
5 WHT/BLU Ignition switch ON (II) and Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 20 (20A) fuse in the under-dash
washer switch ON There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Faulty washer switch
An open in the wire
6 RED/YEL Headlight switch ON Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 15 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Faulty headlight relay 2
Faulty combination light switch
An open in the wire
4 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to Poor ground (G501)
ground: An open in the wire
There should be continuity.
1 WHT/RED Connect the No. 1 Check motor operation: Faulty headlight washer motor
terminal to the No. 2 The headlight washer motor An open in the wire
terminal with a jumper should run.
wire.
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Remove the right rear side trim panel (see page 20-77).
Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the control unit (B).
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
Reconnect the connector, and make these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
6 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
There should be less than 1 An open in the wire
V.
5 WHT/BLU Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 3 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
12 RED/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
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4 LT GRN/ Ignition switch ON (II) and Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
RED rear wiper switch ON There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. Faulty wiper/washer switch
An open in the wire
8 GRY/RED Rear wiper in park Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
position There should be less than 1 Faulty rear wiper motor
V. An open in the wire
Rear wiper in stand by
position
9 GRY/BLU Rear wiper in park Check for voltage to ground:
position There should be less than 1
V.
Rear wiper in stand by Check for no voltage to
position ground:
There should be 5 V or more.
10 GRN/WHT Hatch glass open Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
There should be less than 1 Faulty hatch glass latch switch
V. An open in the wire
Hatch glass closed Check for voltage to ground: Short to ground
There should be 5 V or more. Faulty hatch glass latch switch
11 BLK/YEL Hatch glass opener Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G501)
switch pushed There should be less than 1 Faulty hatch glass opener switch
V. An open in the wire
Hatch glass opener Check for voltage to ground: Short to ground
switch released There should be 5 V or more Faulty hatch glass opener switch
Disconnect the connector, and make these input tests at the connector.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the rear wiper control unit.
3 WHT/RED Connect the No. 5 Check rear washer motor Blown No. 3 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
terminal to No. 3 terminal operation: fuse/relay box
The rear washer should come Poor ground (G301)
on. Faulty rear washer motor
An open in the wire
1 LT GRN/ Connect the No. 3 Check rear wiper motor Blown No. 3 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
BLK terminal to No. 2 terminal, operation: fuse/relay box
and No. 1 terminal to No. The rear wiper should come Poor ground (G601, G701)
2 GRN/RED Faulty rear wiper motor
6 terminal on.
An open in the wire
7 BLK/YEL Rear wiper park position, Check hatch glass opener Poor ground (G601, G701)
connect the No. 5 actuator operation: Faulty hatch glass opener actuator
terminal to No. 7 terminal The hatch glass should open. An open in the wire
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Remove the wiper arms, hood seals, and cowl Open the tailgate, and remove the tailgate lower
covers (see page 22A-223). trim panel (see page 20-9).
Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the wiper Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the wiper
motor (B). motor (B).
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wiper linkage (A) to remove the wiper motor (B).
Open the hood. Remove the nuts (A) and the
windshield wiper arms (B).
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Install in the reverse order of removal. Take care not to pinch the washer tubes. Check the windshield washer
operation.
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To prevent improper operation, the multiplex control
system has a fail-safe function. In the fail-safe mode, the
output signal is fixed when any part of the system
malfunctions (for example a faulty control unit or
communication line).
Each control unit has a hardware fail-safe function that
fixes the output signal when there is any CPU malfunction,
and a software fail-safe function that ignores the signal
from the malfunctioning control unit and allows the system
to operate normally.
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MPCS Service Connector 07WAZ-0010100
<HV Count the blinks, then go to step 5.
Check the No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/
1R See if the SCS circuit is working properly. Go
relay box and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-
to step 6.
dash fuse/relay box.
$UHWKHIXVHV2." If there is a DTC, it will blink, pause, then repeat the
DTC as long as the ignition switch is ON (II).
<HV Go to step 2.
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1R Find and repair the cause of the blown fuse.■
<HV Count the blinks, then go to step 8.
Remove the driver’s dashboard lower cover (see
1R Go to step 9.
page 20-88).
Check for continuity between the inspection
Switch the ceiling light to the middle position. Close
connector T1 and body ground.
all doors. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
If the driver’s seatbelt is unbuckled, the beeper will ,VWKHUHFRQWLQXLW\"
beep five times. <HV Go to step 9.
Check self-diagnosis function Mode 1 for a 1R Go to step 7.
diagnostic trouble code (DTC) by connecting the
special tool (A) to the multiplex control inspection Check for continuity between the connector J of
connector (B). After about 5 seconds, the ignition under-dash fuse/relay box No. 4 terminal and body
switch light and ceiling light should come on for 2 ground.
seconds, go out, then blink once for 0.2 second. ,VWKHUHFRQWLQXLW\"
This means that you are in Mode 1 of the self-
diagnosis function. <HV Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box. Replace
and check for DTCs.
1R Repair the open in the wire, and recheck for
DTCs.■
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About 1 second after you go into self-diagnosis DTC 6 only (no other DTCs present): Update the
mode 1, the ceiling light will indicate the DTC, and ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or
repeat it every 3 seconds. If there is more than one substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck
DTC, the system will indicate them in ascending (see page 11-5). If the symptom/indication goes
order, beginning from the DTC with the lowest away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the
numerical value. Troubleshoot the DTCs as original ECM/PCM.■
indicated below:
DTC 1, 2, and 3 (ECM/PCM P0600) simultaneously: '7& &DXVH
Check for a short to body ground in the YEL wire 1 The multiplex control unit cannot receive
between multiplex control unit terminal E10 and signals from the gauge assembly.
ECM/PCM terminal E24, and in the GRY/RED wire 2 The multiplex control unit cannot receive
between multiplex control unit terminal K10 and signals from the ECM/PCM.
gauge assembly terminal A1. If both wires are OK, 3 The multiplex control unit cannot receive
substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, signals from itself.
gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at a time, in 5 The gauge assembly cannot receive signals
from multiplex control unit and the ECM/PCM.
that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each
substitution. 6 The ECM/PCM cannot receive signals from
multiplex control unit and the gauge assembly.
DTC 2 and 5 simultaneously: Check for an open in
the YEL wire between multiplex control unit terminal
E10 and ECM/PCM terminal E24, If the wire is OK,
substitute a known-good multiplex control unit,
gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at a time, in
that order, and recheck for the DTCs after each
substitution.
DTC 1, and 6 simultaneously: Check for an open in
the GRY/RED wire between multiplex control unit
terminal K10 and gauge assembly terminal A1, If
the wire is OK, substitute a known-good multiplex
control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/PCM one at
a time, in that order, and recheck for the DTCs after
each substitution.
DTC 1 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a
known-good multiplex control unit, and a gauge
assembly one at a time, in that order, and recheck
for the DTCs after each substitution.
DTC 2 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a
known-good multiplex control unit and a ECM/PCM
one at a time, in that order, and recheck for the
DTCs after each substitution.
DTC 3 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a
known-good multiplex control unit, and recheck for
the DTC.
DTC 5 only (no other DTCs present): Substitute a
known-good gauge assembly, and recheck for the
DTC.
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Look in the following table for the switches most Check two or three other circuits listed above.
closely related to the problem. While still in Mode 2,
operate the switches and the control unit. If the 'RHVWKHVSRWOLJKWDQGFHLOLQJOLJKWEOLQNIRUHDFK
circuit is OK, the spotlight and ceiling light should FLUFXLW"
blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there will be no <HV The additional circuits are OK. Repair the
indication. short or open in the circuit that failed the test
'RHVWKHFHLOLQJOLJKWEOLQN" in step 10.■
<HV Go to step 12. 1R Multiplex failed circuits can mean that the
control unit has failed, but without triggering a
1R Go to step 11. DTC. Test a few more circuits. If they also fail,
In each table below is a list of circuits that can be test the multiplex control unit inputs (see page
checked in Mode 2. 22A-235). If all the input test are OK,
substitute a known-good control unit, gauge
assembly, or ECM/PCM, one at a time, then
recheck. If the system works properly, the
original control unit is faulty; replace it. If there
is still a malfunction, substitute a known-good
control unit for the next most likely faulty
control unit, then recheck. If the system works
properly, that control unit is faulty; replace it.■
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Shift to the sleep mode: Shift to the wake up mode:
Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the key. When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the
If the control unit receivers no inputs from the multiplex control unit, gauge assembly, and ECM/
inputs listed below, it will go into the sleep mode PCM wake up at the same time without ’’talking’’ to
after about 20 seconds. each other through the communication lines. When
any switch in the multiplex system is turned on, it
Multiplex Control Unit wakes up its related control unit which, in turn, wakes
Taillight relay (combination switch OFF) up the other units.
Driver’s door switch (door closed)
Front passenger’s door switch (door closed) After confirming the sleep mode, look in the following
Left rear door switch (door closed) table for the switch most closely related to the
Right rear door switch (door closed) problem. Operate that switch and see if its control unit
Tailgate switch (tailgate closed) wakes up.
Driver’s door key cylinder switch (LOCK/UNLOCK)
Hatch glass (glass closed) NOTE: If any control unit is faulty and will not wake up,
several parts of the system will malfunction at the
Comfirm the sleep mode: same time.
Check for voltage on the YEL and WHT/GRN In the table below, the control unit is followed by a list
wires. There should be battery voltage in the sleep of the switches and input signals that can wake it up.
mode. Check the parasitic draw at the battery while
shifting into the sleep mode. Amperage should Multiplex Control Unit No. 9 (10 A) under-hood fuse
change from about 70 through 80 mA to less than Communication lines (ECM/PCM, Gauge assembly)
10 mA.
Taillight relay (combination switch ON)
Driver’s door switch (door open)
Front passenger’s door switch (door open)
Left rear door switch (door open)
Right rear door switch (door open)
Driver’s door key cylinder switch (LOCK/UNLOCK)
Driver’s door lock knob switch (LOCK/UNLOCK)
Driver’s door lock switch (LOCK/UNLOCK)
Front passenger’s door key cylinder switch (UNLOCK)
Ignition key switch (key in switch)
Tailgate switch (tailgate open)
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<HV Intermittent failure; the system is OK at this
time.
1R Test the multiplex control unit inputs (see
page 22A-235).
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Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
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Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make sure these input tests at the appropriate
connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box
assembly.
J4 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G301)
There should be less than 1 An open in the wire
V.
Y6 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G502)
There should be less than 1 An open in the wire
V.
J2 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood
There should be battery fuse/relay box
voltage. An open in the wire
Q3 GRN Driver’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Driver’s door closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver’s door switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q4 LT GRN/ Passenger’s door open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
RED There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Passenger’s door closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty passenger’s door switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
Q8 GRN/ORN Parking brake lever Check for voltage to ground: Faulty parking brake switch
• • pulled There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
C8 GRN/RED Parking brake lever Check for voltage to ground: Faulty parking brake switch
• released There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
F1
Q5 BLU/RED Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver's seat belt switch
Driver's seat belt is There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G551)
unbuckled. An open in the wire
Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: Faulty driver's seat belt switch
Driver's seat belt is There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
buckled.
P18 RED Tailgate open Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate switch
There should be 1 V or less. An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty tailgate switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
X5 RED/WHT Ignition key is in the Check for voltage to ground: Faulty ignition key switch
ignition switch There should be 1 V or less. Poor ground (G401)
An open in the wire
Ignition key is out of the Check for voltage to ground: Faulty ignition key switch
ignition switch There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
F9 BLU/WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: An open or short in the wire
There should be 5 V or more.
C3 WHT Under all conditions Check for continuity to An open or short in the wire
ground:
There should be continuity.
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X8 WHT/BLK Under all conditions Attach to ground: The ignition Blown No. 3 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
key light should come on. fuse/relay box
Blown LED
An open in the wire
O7 GRN/RED Ceiling light switch in the Attach to ground: The ceiling Blown No. 3 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
middle position, all doors light, spotlights should come fuse/relay box
closed on. Faulty ceiling light or spotlights
An open in the wire
C11 BLU Under all conditions Attach to ground: Dash lights Blown No. 2 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
should come on. fuse/relay box
Faulty taillight relay
An open in the wire
F8 GRN/RED Disconnect the brake Check for voltage to ground: Faulty brake fluid level switch
fluid level switch 2P There should be less than 1 An open in the wire
connector, and jump the V.
GRN/RED and BLK
Brake fluid level switch Check for voltage to ground: Faulty brake fluid level switch
connector disconnected, There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
jumper wire removed
E10 YEL All doors, tailgate and Check for voltage to ground: An open or short in the wire
hatch glass closed, There should be battery
ignition key removed voltage in the sleep mode
and 3-7 volts when awake.
K10 GRY/RED All doors, tailgate and Check for voltage to ground: An open or short in the wire
hatch glass closed, There should be battery
ignition key removed voltage in the sleep mode
and 3-7 volts when awake.
Y1 BRN/YEL Under all conditions Check for continuity between An open in the wire
the Y1 terminal and the No.
13 terminal of the ABS
modulator-control unit.
There should be continuity.
Q2 GRN/WHT Hatch glass open Check for voltage to ground: Poor ground (G601, G701)
There should be 1 V or less. Faulty hatch glass latch switch
An open in the wire
Hatch glass closed Check for voltage to ground: Faulty hatch glass latch switch
There should be 5 V or more. Short to ground
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Carefully pry the accessory power socket (A) out Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are
from the left rear side trim panel. all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair
them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and check for
voltage between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.
There should be battery voltage.
If there is no battery voltage, check for:
– poor ground (G451, G601, G701).
– an open in the wire.
– blown No. 18 (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/
relay box.
– blown No. 2 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/
relay box.
Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the socket. – faulty rear accessory power socket relay.
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