Sightseeing Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Wine Hotels

Skopje
July - December 2017
Including
Ohrid & Bitola

Bang!
Our explosive first issue is
packed with essential
information about the
three cities of Skopje,
Ohrid and Bitola

Pop!
Uncork a bottle and come
with us on a journey
through the lip-smacking
world of Macedonian wine
Issue Nº1

inyourpocket.com
 Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

arriving in skopje 7
Happy landings

restaurants 8
From tavče gravče to кафе

cafés 15
Coffee, ice-cream and handlebar moustaches

wine 16
A connoisseur’s guide

nightlife 18
The city that seldom sleeps

sightseeing 20
The essential guide

One of the myriad examples of Skopje 2014 project (see p. 25).

ohrid 30
Macedonia’s fabulous unofficial leisure capital

Bitola 36
Macedonia’s magnificent unofficial cultural capital

getting around 42
Planes, trains and… London buses

directory 44
Shopping, hospitals, culture and more

where to stay 50
Luxury spas to budget beds

map 54
Traditional gifts for sale everywhere in Ohrid (see p. 30).

July – December 2017 5

 Foreword
A city of immense contrasts and an almost audible clash-
ing of cultures, Skopje’s rich and diverse history dates back
at least six millennia. Home to the Romans, Bulgarians, Ot-
tomans, Communists and other dubious colonisers over the
centuries, despite a catastrophic earthquake that flattened
huge swathes of the city as recently as 1963, Skopje retains E S S E N TI A L
much of its original charm despite the best efforts of the C I TY G U I D E S
Publisher
Japanese architect Kenzō Tange to asphyxiate the city with Skopje in Your Pocket
concrete during its reconstruction. A city in which it’s almost Bul. K.J. Pitu 15-1/3 1000 Skopje, Macedonia
impossible to find bad food and where you’ll discover a 12th- Tel. +389 75 450 250
macedonia@inyourpocket.com
century church that literally (or rather figuratively) changed macedonia.inyourpocket.com
the course of Western art, Skopje’s now reachable from more
locations than ever with the local airport handling not one Director Vladimir Stefanovski
but two of Europe’s leading low cost airlines. Oh, and should vladimir.stefanovski@inyourpocket.com
you ever find yourself in the unlikely situation of getting tired
Editorial
of the place, we’ve also thrown in a couple of handy guides Managing Editor Sco
to the spectacular leisure and culture capitals of Ohrid and Contributor Jeroen van Marle
Bitola for good measure. Enjoy. Design Mateja Štruc
Photography Richard Schofield, Stobi Winery (p.16),
Fly Ohrid (p.32)
coveR stoRy Cover Photo Vasil Chekalarov Monument (©2017 Richard
Schofield)
Unveiled in 2013 as part of the Sales & Circulation
city’s Skopje 2014 project, Vasil Antoanela Petrovic, Snezana Stefanovska, Ivica Slavkovic
Chekalarov Monument sits on
the roundabout opposite Skopje’s Printed by Data Pons (www.datapons.com.mk)
Circulation 20,000 copies, two times per year
Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral
(see p. 22). The work of Elena and Copyright notice
Darko Dukovski, the statue cel- Text and photographs copyright Skopje in Your Pocket. All rights
ebrates the ‘cruel but competent reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without
general’ Vasil Chekalarov (1874- written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The
1913), an infamous revolutionary figure and one of the brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In
leaders of the Internal Macedonian-Adrianople Revolu- Your Pocket, Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. +370 5 212
tionary Organisation. Read more about Skopje 2014 on 29 76.

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6 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com


Arriving at Kenzō Tange’s train station
By plane
Some 22 kilometres east of the city, Skopje Alexander the
Great Airport is small and easy to use. After disembarking
and entering the main terminal building, follow the signs
until you reach passport control where you’ll be confront-
ed with a row of booths currently offering four options,
namely All Passports, Citizens, MK Citizens and EU Citizens.
Once you’ve figured out who you are, passport checks are
generally relaxed and friendly. The Arrivals and Departures
halls are in the same building and share a range of facili-
ties including ATMs, currency exchange, and information
desk and a few shops and cafés. Getting to town A taxi
to the city centre should cost around 900den or €15 (pay-
able in either currency) and the journey takes less than 30
minutes. To the right of the exit, the Vardar Ekspres bus
leaves approximately eight times a day. The fare is currently
175den and the bus stops at Capitol Mall, the bus/train sta-
tion and the Holiday Inn hotel right in the centre of the city.
By bus
All international and long-distance buses arrive at Skopje’s
reasonably central bus station just east of the centre on
the southern side of the river. Inside, find ATMs, a couple
of small shops selling sweets, drinks and cigarettes and a
handful of windows and kiosks for buying onward tickets.
Getting to town It’s possible to walk to the city centre in
about 15 minutes, or take bus N°23, which runs along Bul.
Kuzman Josifovski Pitu. Taxis (and taxi drivers) can be found
congregating outside the main entrance/exit. A ride into
the centre shouldn’t cost more than 100den. If in doubt,
negotiate a price before getting in the vehicle.
By car
Arriving in Skopje by car can be stressful and confusing for
first timers, especially for those who’ve never experienced
the miscellaneous idiosyncrasies of Balkan-style driv-
ing. Although major signs are written in both Cyrillic and
Latin, there are few visual hints as to what might be the
city centre, and the somewhat bewildering system of one-
Arriving in Skopje
way streets only adds to the pandemonium. The arrival of
Sat Nav has drastically improved matters, and if you’re ar-
riving in a rental car it’s worth checking to make sure it’s
equipped with one. A couple of highways leading into
the city require a small toll fee to be paid. Accordingly, it’s
highly recommended to be carrying some cash as foreign
currency and credit cards aren’t accepted.
By train
All trains arrive at Skopje’s one and only train station, an in-
teresting concrete construction designed by the Japanese
architect Kenzō Tange to replace the building destroyed by
the 1963 earthquake. Sadly in a state of serious disrepair
and containing almost nothing in the way of facilities, if
you need money, drink, food or cigarettes you’ll need to
use the services at the adjoining bus station. The connect-
ing door between the two is often locked, in which case it’s
necessary to leave via the main exit and snake left around
the building. Getting to town See Arriving by bus (above).
When to go
Macedonia, a small country by anyone’s standards, can
claim a total of three very different climates, namely
changed Mediterranean, mountainous and mildly
continental. Average temperatures vary considerably
depending on where you are, with much of the coun-
try receiving blissfully long and hot summers with rela-
tively mild and wet winters and other parts such as the
mountains suffering from long snowy winters and the
briefest of chilly summers. At an altitude of 240m, Sko-
pje becomes unbearably hot during much of July and
August, one of the many reasons why Ohrid, at 693m,
is so popular during the summer. If you’re not coming
to ski or lay on a sun bed, we recommend visiting in
late May when the spring flowers are in full bloom and
the temperature is pleasantly warm.
July – December 2017 7
 Restaurants
Skillets of tavče gravče in an Old Bazaar restaurant.
Most restaurants in Skopje are excellent, affordable, and
increasingly diverse. The best way to enjoy a classic Mac-
edonian blow-out is to employ the assistance of a local
expert to take you through the menu before loading you
into a wheelbarrow and pushing your bloated body back
to your hotel.
Macedonian
Čardak
Another quality restaurant on Skopje’s current favourite
little street, the waiters here must run the equivalent of
a marathon on Friday and Saturday evenings such is the
popularity of this place and the top notch food that’s pre-
pared in the kitchen. The excellent grilled meat is served on
wooden boards to add to the general rustic theme of the
place and there’s regular live music featuring a range of usu-
ally very good and entertaining musicians.QC-2, Boemska
Ulica, tel. +389 70 41 09 19, www.restorancardak.mk.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
8 Skopje In Your Pocket
Dojrana
Essentially a Macedonian restaurant but with some good inter-
national choices on the menu, Dojrana’s location is a little bit
out the way but is worth the safari required to eat there. Well
known for its čiorba (sour soup), most people make the effort
to visit for the grilled meat, of which we thoroughly recom-
mend the lamb with plenty of fresh salad, white cheese and a
decent bottle of Macedonian red wine.Q513 22, tel. +389 23
17 50 37. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P­A­L­B­W
Dukat
Another Skopje favourite that often involves being carried to
the car after eating here, this fine Macedonian establishment
is always busy for a good reason and is definitely worth the
trek to the western suburbs to enjoy its many pleasures. Fea-
turing amiable waiters who wish only to bring yet another
armload of dishes to your table, if you’re on a diet (and you
might have to be after reviving yourself with an espresso),
try the čiorba (sour soup), which comes in hanging copper
pots with lashings of fresh white bread.QA-4, Mitropolit
Teodosij Golaganov 79, tel. +389 72 30 61 98. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­E­B­W
Kancelarija
On the little Debar Maalo street everyone’s currently talking
about, this is a great place to indulge in a endless supply of
small dishes of salad, grilled meat, fresh crusty bread and deli-
cious local white cheese until, with a big greasy grin on your
face, you realise you’ve eaten enough for a week and it’s still
only Monday lunchtime. For those who need to know these
things, Kancelarija shows a lot of live European football on the
large outdoor screens.QC-2, Boemska Ulica, tel. +389 78 22
07 22. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Pivnica An
The 15th-century setting is pretty much unbeatable and the
magnificent summer terrace is stunning to the point that
you wouldn’t really be bothered if they served you a bowl of
damp cardboard. Thankfully, they’ve also got the food down
to perfection, and there’s great selection of beer (after which
the place is named) and wine too. An excellent option for a lei-
surely lunch where the courses just keep coming.QF-2, Kapan
An 1472 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 21 21 11, www.pivnicaan.
mk. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W
Stara Kuka
Found inside a traditional merchant’s konak house dating
from 1838, this is one of the places where the locals drag for-
eigners to experience real Macedonian cooking. The pretty
building has beautifully carved wooden ceilings and a pleas-
ant sheltered garden. Dig into a superb range of regional food
including grilled meat, fish, fresh salads, stuffed peppers or
courgettes, and sweet, sticky baklava for dessert.QF-3, Pajko
Maalo 14, tel. +389 23 13 13 76, www.starakuka.com. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. J­A­U­LB ­ ­W
For Ohrid restaurants see p. 31
For Bitola restaurants see p. 39
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 ㈀　㄀㘀 ㈀　㄀㜀

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July – December 2017 9
 Restaurants
Full of beans
A strong contender for Macedonia’s national dish,
tavče gravče (literally ‘beans in a skillet’) is served
everywhere and pairs perfectly with traditional
homemade sausage, roasted vegetables or just
about anything you can to mention. A life-saver
for vegetarians navigating the land of grilled meat,
try it with a fresh local salad and lashings of white
cheese.
Chinese
Peking Garden
Full of satisfied Chinese tourists when we visited and
specialising in both Chinese and Japanese cuisine, the
chefs here are imported from China which we can assure
you makes a big difference. Tucked away in a courtyard
and big enough to feed an army, lovers of Asian food
hanging out for spring rolls, sushi and the link are in for
some good news. Their good value special lunch offers
are particularly recommended.QD-4, Maksim Gorki 3,
tel. +389 23 22 11 73, www.pekinggarden.mk. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. P­A ­B ­W
10 Skopje In Your Pocket
Fast food
Fast Food 7
Starting life way back in 1987, this legendary, family-
run fast food stall is based on giving its customers the
very best quality food for the very best prices. After 30
years there’s still often a long queue here, which is proof
enough in a country famed for its food that Fast Food 7 is
up there among the giants of Skopje cuisine. The menu as
you’d expect is packed with burgers, fries, chicken, hot-
dogs and the like.QC-3, Borka Taleski 5, tel. +389 23 21 19
14, www.7.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00.
Closed Sun. P­B­S
Fine dining
Four
Overseen by the Belgrade-born Konstantin Katafaj and
featuring a lively and at times entertaining open kitchen,
the menu runs the gamut of dishes from Macedonian fa-
vourites with a twist to the kind of sophisticated food you
don’t see every day in the Balkans. With impressive price
tags considering what you get, this is the perfect place to
seal a business deal or celebrate a special occasion.QD-1,
1732 4 (Park Hotel & Spa), tel. +389 25 51 51 73, www.
parkhotel.mk. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00.
P­A­B­W
skopje.inyourpocket.com

olive
So sophisticated they decided to put it on Paris Street,
everything from the décor to the service to the im-
pressive selection of fine international dishes make
Olive one of the top choices for the city’s hungry and
demanding elite. It’s not unusual to hear French and
Italian spoken here, which is probably praise enough
for any restaurant. If you’re in a hurry, the pizzas are
unforgettable, and the veal literally melts in the mouth.
Fabulous choice of wine too.QPariska bb, tel. +389 23
06 66 23, www.olive.mk. Open 09:00 - 23:45. Closed
Sun. P A B W
vodenica mulino
Unquestionably one of Skopje’s classiest restaurants,
this recommended diversion in the west of the city
was opened by chef Stojan Filiposki who spent de-
cades perfecting his skills in Italy. Specialising in
Italian food including some truly outstanding pasta,
seafood and risotto dishes, Vodenica Mulino is also
home to an exclusive wine, the so-called National
Cellar and even conference facilities for the ultimate
business lunch and dinner. Find it among a row of
standout places between Intermezzo and Dukat.
QA-4,Teodosij Golaganov 69, tel. +389 23 23 28 77,
www.vodenicamulino.com.mk. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. P A B W
Restaurants
international
BarBakan
A great place for club sandwiches, burgers, tapas, pizza
and a handful of exquisitely prepared larger dishes, this
popular, bistro-style aff air to the west of the centre and
close to City Park is a laid-back aff air that sees all manner
of diners including many of the city’s young profession-
als congregate for its quick service, good prices and fa-
mous happy hour. A relaxing summer terrace opens dur-
ing the warmer part of the year and there’s occasional
live music to boot.QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 18, tel. +389
23 07 50 93. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00.
PABW
Bruklinski
Home of the epic Bruklinski Burger, Bruklinski (or Bruk-
lynski) is a Debar Maalo bistro-style restaurant most of
the week serving a great range of food and drink in-
cluding everything from poached eggs to wine to the
aforementioned house speciality, all to a background
of piped jazz music that turns live at the weekends.
Good for food and coffee anytime, the bands that
play here are varied in style and it’s definitely worth
having a peep inside if you’re doing an evening tour
of the area.QC-2, Orce Nikolov 75, tel. +389 26 09 18
44. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 -
01:00. P A W
July – December 2017 11
 Restaurants
Language
Macedonian is a South Slavic language written using a
unique variation of the Cyrillic alphabet, a letter system
originally invented in Macedonia with more than a little
help from Sts. Cyril and Methodius during the 9th cen-
tury. Macedonian is the official state language of the
country, with Albanian possessing official minority rights
in areas where ethnic Albanians make up more than 25
percent of the population. Sharing many common words
with other Slavic languages including Bulgarian and Rus-
sian, Macedonian also includes a considerable amount
of loan words adopted during its long and multicultural
history and has an unusual sound when spoken in which
a distinct Turkish influence can definitely be heard. To
make life complicated, many shop, bar, restaurant and
other venue signs prefer to use variations of the Latin
alphabet and/or Albanian words, a fact that goes a long
way towards explaining the somewhat erratic spell-
ing conventions used throughout this guide. Visitors to
Macedonia with no knowledge of Cyrillic are strongly
advised to take a crash course in the alphabet, although
it’s not that difficult to get by without it.
Distrikt Bar & Kitchen
The Skopje Marriott’s ground floor terrace bar and open
kitchen is one of the hottest locations in town, a classic
Marriott incarnation aimed at well-heeled locals, expats
and business travellers looking for great food, a terrific view
and a whole host of extras including DJs, special themed
events and the quintessential Marriott Sunday brunch. A
welcome addition to Skopje’s going out venues for all occa-
sions.QD-3, Plostad Makedonija 7 (Skopje Marriott), tel.
+389 25 10 25 35, www.distrikt.mk. Open 07:00 - 00:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P­J­A­B­W
Pelister
One of our favourite places to eat on Macedonia Square,
the extensive menu focuses on Italian dishes (the pizza
comes highly recommended) but also offers a range of
Macedonian and international favourites including one or
two vegetarian specials. The outdoor summer terrace is
big, and gets very busy during the day and the evening,
but is worth a visit if you’re not in a hurry if only to get a
fix of their rocket fuel espresso.QE-3, Macedonia square
bb, tel. +389 23 11 24 82, www.pelisterhotel.com.mk.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 00:00. P­J­B­W
Public Room
An interesting non-profit venture close to the Mother Teresa
Hospital just to the south of the centre, Public Room’s restau-
rant specialises in a range of healthy dishes that are popular
with all the family. As well as serving food, the place also acts
as an art gallery, performance space, co-working centre and
venue for all manner of different creative workshops.Q50
Divizija 22, tel. +389 26 09 26 50, www.publicroom.org.
Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W
12 Skopje In Your Pocket
Soul Kitchen
One of a number of similar places stretched out along the
Kej, Soul Kitchen is a busy and by most accounts friendly
place to stop and eat in that prides itself on serving mostly
Macedonian favourites with lots of modern twists. We
recommend the savoury pancakes or the huge plates of
light fried snacks accompanied with one of their bottles
of Macedonian wine. The covered outdoor terrace is open
around the year and is a great place for coffee and watch-
ing the world drift slowly by.QE-4, Kej 13 Noemvri, tel.
+389 78 88 77 33, www.soulkitchenbar.mk. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
The Loft
Just freshly opened in time for the summer season as we
were going to press, this high class rooftop restaurant and
bar with awesome views of the city is the latest place to go
and meet some of Skopje’s beautiful people, dine on qual-
ity international food, drink classy drinks and listen to music
from some of the most respected young DJs and others in
Macedonia and abroad. As night descends on the city, The
Loft becomes more of a club than a classic restaurant.QE-3,
Kej 13ti Noemvri (Garage Solunski Kongres), tel. +389 71
27 20 00. Open 10:00 - 01:00. P­AB­W
Trend
An excellent club, bar, lounge and restaurant in one, Trend
serves great international food from a helpfully photo-
graphic menu and features friendly waiters who remember
you the second time you visit. It’s the personal touches that
make places like this such a hit, and the location is hard to
beat too. The Trend brand is currently expanding around
the city. Keep an eye out for their other recommended ven-
ues.QD-3, Ploshtad Makedonija 2/4, tel. +389 71 36 88
46, www.caffetrend.mk. Open 08:00:23:30, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 01:00. P­J­A­B­W
Twins Kitchen & Wine
Located around the back of the Park Hotel & Spa and over-
looking the river, this mildly experimental place draws
customers in partly thanks to the amazing salads they
make, but there’s plenty of other light bites to explore
from burgers to pizza. They also dedicate a lot of their
energy towards stocking an impressive selection of wine,
all of it for a good price and best enjoyed when the sun’s
shining on their large outdoor terrace.QKej 13 Noemvri
(Park Hotel & Spa), tel. +389 75 20 43 38, www.twins.
com.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Italian
La Terrazza
This impressive restaurant does an excellent job at com-
bining the very best of nouvelle cuisine and good old-
fashioned Italian favourites. Recommended by those in the
know for their pizzas cooked in an authentic wood oven,
find it tucked away just off Plostad Makedonija.QE-4,
Ploshtad Makedonija, tel. +389 23 11 33 80. Open 08:00
- 24:00. P­A­B­W
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
Mexican
amigos
By most accounts a much better attempt at a Mexican
restaurant than many in the Balkans, the menu includes
all your favourites and a few surprises plus the added bo-
nus of cold Mexican beer in the refrigerator. During the
warmer part of the year they open up a barbecue on the
terrace. A little bit expensive for Skopje, but worth it any-
way.QD-4, Makedonija 11, tel. +389 71 23 03 14, www.
amigos.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJABW
out oF toWn
canyon matka
An unbeatable canyon-side location, bustling waiters
and an impressive menu of Macedonian fare greet visi-
tors to Canyon Matka. In many ways a victim of its own
success, the place gets so crowded during the summer
you’ll wish you’d bought sandwiches. Their upstairs hotel
comes with some of the best views in the city.QMatka,
tel. +389 22 05 26 55, www.canyonmatka.mk. Open
08:00 - 24:00. PABW
oreov lad
Especially recommended for those travelling in large
groups and on the left of the road immediately south of
the Albanian-dominated village of Saraj on the way to
the Matka Canyon, the warmer months of the year are a
14 Skopje In Your Pocket
kebap
destan
A famed kebab restaurant in the Old Bazaar popular
with Westerners due to its overall cleanliness, the bar-
becued food here comes highly recommended plus
there’s photographs of old Skopje on the walls to keep
you occupied whilst you wait. Those looking for a more
‘local’ experience should shuffle across the street to the
excellent albeit less salubrious Kaj Serdarot.QF-2, 106
4 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 22 40 63, www.destan.
com.mk. Open 08:00 - 23:00. ABW
good time to visit this fine restaurant when the massive
garden terraces are open, the barbecues are in full swing
and the live music is playing.QSarajska 1, tel. +389 22
05 79 58, www.oreovlad.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
PALBW
seaFood
Frutti di marre
An old Debar Maalo favourite, Frutti di Marre specialis-
es in simple dishes packed with complicated tastes. We
recommend one of their popular soups at any time of
the year, especially during the summer when you can
enjoy it on their relaxing outdoor terrace. Seasoned ex-
perts in everything they do, the wine menu has been
very carefully selected to bring out the best in every-
thing you try here.QB-2, Rade Koncar 5, tel. +389 23
13 21 45, www.fruttidimare.mk. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
PABW
sidro
Serving knockout fresh fish including salmon, calamari,
squid and a particular good fish stew, the interior of this
massively popular restaurant is done up to look like an
old fisherman’s cabin and the summer terrace has been
equally jollied up with plenty of fishing nets and other
similar paraphernalia. One of the better places here-
abouts to get proper octopus, booking in advance at
the weekends is highly recommended.QAtinska 21, tel.
+389 23 05 16 07. Open 10:00 - 24:00. P A B W
sushi
sushi co
The Turkish chain of restaurants specialising in Japanese,
Chinese and Thai cuisine now has a presence in Skopje,
and hallelujah to that. Everything from the décor to the
master chefs is authentic and the menu is as long as a
Tokyo telephone directory. Alongside a fabulous range
of sushi are noodles, bento boxes and much, much
more. Note that their home delivery menu is different
to the one in the restaurant.QC-2, Aminta Treti 29, tel.
+389 23 21 78 74, www.sushico.com.mk. Open 10:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. P A B W
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Cafés
Hipster cafés
Mad Kitchen & Bar
The lovely young gentleman who served us in this recom-
mended Debar Maalo venue came with all the prerequisite
hipster trappings including a handlebar moustache of such
epic proportions that we weren’t sure whether to ask him for
an espresso or get on him and ride him back to the hotel.
Not only is this Skopje’s current premiere hipster haunt, it’s
also a great café to spend time in if you’re in the vicinity.QC-2,
Naum Naumovski Borce 62, tel. +389 77 65 15 57. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W

Ice-cream
Radost
Despite only selling chocolate and vanilla flavours here,
Radost is still the most popular place to come for ice-
cream and for good reason. It’s the best, and the choice
of toppings more than makes up for everything. This is
also a great place to drop by for a decent cup of coffee
when you need one.QD-3, Maksim Gorki 21, tel. +389
75 36 55 24. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
P­A ­W
Pâtisseries
Cakes & Bakes
From the profiterole to the cheesecake, everything in this top
quality Turkish café has been made with the best ingredients
and is prepared with that magic touch that the Turks seem
so masterly at. Find muffins, brownies, tiramisu and all your
favourite desserts waiting to be devoured and washed down
with some extremely memorable coffee.QSkopje Airport,
tel. +389 22 58 09 22. Open 24hrs. P­A­W
Traditional cafés
Mekicite od Straza
An extremely versatile café popular with the locals that
not only serves great coffee and passable burgers but that
somewhat bizarrely also sells their own branded bags of
flour. There’s a good reason for this, and readers are en-
couraged to pop along to discover the logic behind the
madness. A great place to unwind in the middle of the
day, Mekicite od Straza also has a place half way along
the road to Ohrid that attracts visitors in the same way
a holy relic attracts pilgrims on the road to Jerusalem.
QD-4, Makedonija 41, tel. +389 75 21 38 98, www.
mekiciteodstraza.com. Open 07:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 01:00. P­J­A­B­W
Vinyl
One of Skopje’s more pleasant surprises, Vinyl was started
by a couple of friends who as so often happens opened
the kind of place they wanted to hang out in but that
didn’t exist at the time. Found in a convenient location
for those who find themselves walking regularly between
the city centre and Debar Maalo, this classic, industrial-
Sticky desserts to go with your coffee.
feel café serves a cracking coffee, offers a few snacks and
hosts regular DJs who try to blend with rather than domi-
nate the environment.QC-3, Partizanski Odredi 14, tel.
+389 23 10 78 78. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 12:00. P­A­B­W
Wacky cafés
MIG 21
Founded by a member of the popular Macedonian band
of the same name and pulling in a large percentage of
Debar Maalo’s arty bohemian crowd, this is a highly rec-
ommended place to spend a few hours sipping coffee or
something a little stronger and generally getting to know
some of the city’s more colourful eccentrics. The music
policy is better than most other places, and DJs are known
to come and liven the place up a bit on a regular basis.
QD-4, Makedonija bb, tel. +389 77 90 22 20. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Sindikat
Another Debar Maalo favourite, Sindikat is a five-star,
tongue-in-cheek parody of Yugoslav communism mixed
together with an 80s hip-hop attitude of peace and
brotherhood with just a dash of Macedonian irony. At
least we think it is. It’s hard to say really. Hypothesis aside,
this is a welcome addition to going out in Skopje and a
genuinely eccentric place to meet like-minded souls. Sur-
plus to the colourful clientele is the usual roll call of good
coffee, alcohol, light snacks and DJs.QC-2, Orce Nikolov
97, tel. +389 76 45 45 15. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
July – December 2017 15
 Restaurants
Wine
Macedonia boasts a near-perfect climate for growing wine
grapes and produces some 100,000 tonnes of them annu-
ally in vineyards covering a total area of over 30,000 hectares.
Add to these statistics the fact that the country’s also respon-
sible for some of the best food in Southern Europe and you’ll
start to understand why wine is such an important part of
the culture and why the local stuff is so good. Around 80 per-
cent of the wine produced in the country is red, with nearly
all of both the red and white originating from the vineyards
of Povardarie, Pčinja-Osogovo and Pelagonija-Polog. With
both its long history and popularity in the country, wine is a
subject that many people know a lot about, including most
of the waiters working in the vast majority of the restaurants
mentioned in this guide. If you need any help, there’s plenty
around. Personally we’re a bit traditional and prefer to drink
Vranec, a dry red made from the grape of the same name
that’s among the most popular in the country. We’re no
experts, it just happens to go down very well with grilled
meat, fresh salad, white bread and white cheese. The follow-
ing producers all come highly recommended. As you’ll see,
some of them also offer wine tours which are a great way to
get to know the country, its culture and its drinking habits.

More wine online

macedonia.inyourpocket.com
Vineyards as far as the eye can see

16 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com

 Wine
Bovin
Macedonia’s first privately built winery was estab-
lished in 1998 and has a capacity of 1.5 million bottles
a year split between around 70% red and 30% white.
Aimed at high-end consumers, their wines, including
Vranec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir
are exported all over the world. Bovin also produces
rakija and the company offers special wine-tasting
events for groups of between 10 and 60 people.QIn-
dustriska bb, tel. +389 43 36 53 22, www.bovin.
com.mk.

kamnik
Founded in 2004, Kamnik produces a number of reds,
whites, sparkling wines and a cheeky rosé sold un-
der the name Sexy. Their 15 hectares of vineyards
form part of an estate that produces everything
from Syrah, to Vranec to Chardonnay to Sauvignon
Blanc. Particularly active in the tourist industry, Kam-
nik offers several opportunities to taste their wines
and it’s also possible to get a complete tour of their
vineyard.QKamnik bb, tel. +389 22 52 35 22, www.
chateaukamnik.com.

sopot
A small boutique winery founded just over a decade
ago that focuses on exclusive wines that are available
only in high class restaurants and hotels in Macedonia
and abroad, Sopot prioritises quality over quantity and
produces an impressive range of reds, whites and rosés
including Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay
and Temjanika. Visiting their vineyard for wine-tasting
events and cellar tours is available by appointment
only.QMunicipality of Veles, tel. +389 78 36 31 67,
www.chateausopot.mk.

stoBi
New kid on the block Stobi is already turning out an
impressive 4.5 million litres of wine in four distinct
categories of which their Premium varieties include
Syrah Barrique, Merlot Barrique, Aminta and Vranec
Veritas. Dedicated to sharing their love and expe-
riences with the rest of the world, Stobi, that also
features a restaurant on its territory, organises a
wide range of events including tours and corporate
functions.QAvtopat 2, tel. +389 78 36 31 67, www.
stobiwinery.mk.

tikveš
The history of this classic winery dates back to the
second half of the19th century and a time when the
organised production and sale of wine in Macedonia
is first recognised to have started. Producing a stag-
gering array of products from high-end wine to table
wines to rakija, organised wine tours here involve a
history of the company and several different options
for groups and individuals in their lovely wine cellar.
Q29-ti Noemvri 5, tel. +389 23 17 59 66, www.tikves.
com.mk.

July – December 2017 17

 Nightlife
Arriving & Getting Around
Strolling at night along Makedonija.
Although far from being a nightlife hotspot, Skopje offers
plenty of enticing options for everyone, from quiet bars
for intimate evenings with friends and lovers to clubs with
girls dancing about wearing little more than their birthday
suits. As happens every year throughout the country, many
of the best clubs appear out of nowhere and open their
doors to the masses for the short summer period only.
Bars
Austrian Palace
This large and by all accounts frenetic bar on two floors in
the Old Bazaar functions as an ordinary café-restaurant dur-
ing the day, although it’s during the evenings that the place
really comes into itself. Popular with students and featuring
a large open terrace at the back, Austrian Palace’s décor
is the work of two young Albanian designers and is a fun
place to eat, get pickled on cheap cocktails and forget about
the world until it crashing back in with the hangover in the
morning.QE-2, Teodosij Golaganav 3 (Old Bazaar), tel.
+389 70 43 52 72. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­B­W
Cosy
An innocent-looking Debar Maalo bar and the best if not
the only place in town to drink yourself delirious on over
60 unusual beers from Belgium, Germany, Macedonia and
the Netherlands. Friendly and providing a small menu of
snacks to keep you drinking until after midnight, Cosy also
organising beer tastings and is available for private func-
tions.QB-2, Kosturski Heroi 4a, tel. +389 70 36 42 24.
Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. P­B­W
Kino Karpoš
Not surprisingly perhaps, this hugely popular Debar Maa-
lo venue is decorated with more than a passing nod to the
cinema industry. Café by day and busy bar by night, you’re
unlikely to bump into many quantum physicists in here,
18 Skopje In Your Pocket
but you will find plenty of wannabe models and movie
stars high on cocktails and gazing at the DJs. In a slightly
obscure location, ask a local to help you find it if you get
lost.QB-2, Blagoj Davkov 1, tel. +389 23 33 22 23. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W
Piazza Liberta
A mostly educated crowd gather here in the upstairs bar
most evenings to drink, chatter and generally throw peanut
shells over their trousers. You get complimentary peanuts
with every drink here you see, and on a good night going
to the toilet is not unlike shuffling your way across a huge
hamster cage. The bar is named after Sloboda Square, the
public space that inhabited this spot until the 1963 earth-
quake ruined nearly all the surrounding buildings. Also
open during the day, surplus to the drinks and aforemen-
tioned nuts Piazza Liberta features a menu of simple dishes
from breakfast to good value spaghetti.QD-3, Dimitrie Cu-
povski 24, tel. +389 23 22 48 07, www.piazzaliberta.mk.
Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P­A­W
Siesta
A swanky gastropub near the City Museum featuring
a talking-point interior, some interesting dishes on the
menu and a refrigerator bursting with ice-cold bottles of
beer including Skopsko Dark (Temno), one of a tiny hand-
ful of non-light beers available anywhere in the country.
Casual and classy at the same time, this is a good option
for an early evening meal with a drink or two before mov-
ing on to one of the city’s more lively areas.QD-4, Luj Pas-
ter 11, tel. +389 77 66 66 03. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­W
Van Gogh
A Skopje institution that’s been going for over three decades,
Van Gogh is the quintessential good time bar featuring lots
of quirky additions and a cheerful arty crowd. The week’s a
skopje.inyourpocket.com

busy one at Van Gogh, with live music, salsa dancing and DJs
all regular occurrences. It doesn’t matter what you look like
or what you prefer to drink in here, it’s a genuinely pleasant if
occasionally hectic bar whose longevity says everything you
need to know about the place.QC-2, Mihail Cakov 4, tel.
+389 23 12 18 76. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­E­B­W
Clubs
Intermezzo
A great venue popular for its wonderful summer terrace that
doubles as a café during the day and a well frequented night
bar later in the evening, Intermezzo’s bar is well stocked with
beers and spirits and plenty of champagne, the latter being
the popular drink of choice among the city elite who you’ll
often find partying here during the weekend parties. A veri-
table magnet for the loveliest looking ladies and gentlemen
in town, this is one of the few places around where you’ll find
foreign DJs keeping the crowd alive long into the night.QA-4,
Naroden front 5/2, tel. +389 23 23 95 39. Open 08:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Jukebox
The 1950s Belgian jukebox hasn’t spun a disc in years, but it
doesn’t seem to bother the local eccentrics and intellectu-
als who pack the place to bursting during the weekends in
order to watch, cheer, heckle and dance to the various cab-
aret bands, stand-up comedians and others who perform
here. A recommended stop-off point on a Debar Maalo
weekend night out, Jukebox is a relatively tame bar during
the rest of the week.QC-2, Orce Nikolov 99, tel. +389 23
22 72 94. Open 22:00 - 04:00. P­A­E­W
Not Skopje 2014.
Nightlife
Alcohol
The three most popular alcoholic drinks in Macedonia,
are rakija, a fruit brandy made from grapes or much less
commonly plums that often precedes lunch and is an
indispensable accompaniment at almost all celebra-
tions, locally produced wine (vino, see p. 16), which is
of exceptionally good quality, and beer (pivo), of which
the most widespread brands are Skopsko, the Skopje-
brewed market leader that also produces a rare dark
beer, and Zlaten Dab, which is brewed in Prilep. Craft
beer is becoming increasingly popular. Temov, the
country’s first craft beer producer, is based in the Old
Bazaar in Skopje and its Reinheitsgebot-inspired ales
are appearing in more and more bars and restaurants
around the city. The Duty Free shop at Skopje Airport
sells lots of local wine which make great gifts and sou-
venirs.
Marakana
A long thin venue with a large bar specialising in live mu-
sic every night, mostly in the form of jazz and blues. The
set-up at Marakana is rudimentary with mostly standing
room only, a wooden floor to drop your cigarettes on, and
a small stage. One predominantly for the older crowd, the
venue can be found in City Park and is inside the building
containing the restaurant of the same name.QC-1, 1732
8, tel. +389 23 22 15 48. Open 23:00 - 05:00. P­A­W
Irish pubs
St Patrick
Known to everyone including the expats who keep the
place open as the Irish pub, this long-standing Skopje
institution on the Kej across from the Old Bazaar comes
with a Victorian railway theme and a bar that stocks
draught Guinness. There’s bar snacks galore, live music at
the weekends and a very pleasant outdoor terrace on the
edge of the water.QE-4, Kej 13 Noemvri 8, tel. +389 23
25 63 37, www.irishpub.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Microbreweries
Pivnica Star Grad
Macedonia’s first microbrewery churns out some excel-
lent quality craft beer in their Old Bazaar-located bar. The
family-run business adheres to the German Reinheitsgebot
system of brewing, ensuring the beer in question is as pure
as possible, and the bar itself is worth a visit if you’re in the
area and fancy a pint. The owners recently opened a sec-
ond venue, Temov, on Plostad Makedonija and their unique
and highly commendable products are slowly starting to
appear in other venues around the city.QE-2, Samoilova
bb (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 76 46 23 72, www.oldtown-
brewerytemov.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W
July – December 2017 19
 Sightseeing
Museum of Macedonian Struggle (see p. 22)
Unlike many other Balkan capitals such as Belgrade, Sofia and
Zagreb, which only grew to importance during the 19th cen-
tury, Skopje is an ancient city dating back several millennia. As
such it’s made up of many fascinating and often contradicting
cultural and historical layers that are visible in everything from
the architecture to the food. Many of the city’s museums are
stuck in a Tito-era time warp, but don’t let this put you off. It’s
impossible to come away from any of the sights listed below
without having gained a deeper insight into the beautiful and
complicated country that’s Macedonia. A small fee is charged
for admission to several of the places listed here, so don’t for-
get to carry some cash with you when visiting.
Essential Skopje
The following three choices are naturally subjective and are
listed here partly because of their central location. If you’ve
only got limited time to see Skopje, we recommend you try
them not least because they’re all close to each other and are
surrounded by a handful of other fabulous sights. If you’ve got
a little more time on your hands, the frescos inside the small
12th-century church at the St. Pantelejmon Monastery (see
Out of town) are absolutely compulsory visiting.
20 Skopje In Your Pocket
Old Bazaar (Стара Чаршија)
Probably founded some time around the 12th century,
Skopje’s marvellous Old Bazaar was once a major Ottoman
trading centre and its role as a place where old trades and
traditions once flourished still continues to this day albeit to a
much lesser extent. At the height of its importance, the area
contained some 30 mosques and other Ottoman buildings
of which several fine examples have survived. Very much an
Albanian dominated part of town, the Macedonian authori-
ties recently took the bold step of adopting a law recognising
the Old Bazaar as a place of outstanding cultural heritage and
as such a lot of work has been carried out making it more
presentable to tourists. Of particular interest is the Bezistan,
a covered market where the most precious items for sale in a
bazaar were traditionally kept. Skopje’s Bezistan was original
built in the 15th century by Gazi Ishak Bey, although several
subsequent fires and earthquakes have take its toll and the
current incarnation dates from renovation work carried out
in 1899. A visit to the Old Bazaar is an absolute must when in
town. Wandering its narrow, traffic-free streets, browsing the
unusual shops, stopping somewhere for köfte and Turkish
coffee and exploring its increasingly unconventional nightlife
venues are one of the great pleasures of visiting Skopje. QF-2
skopje.inyourpocket.com

Skopje Fortress (Скопско Кале)
Archaeological excavations show that people have been
living on the hill above what’s now the Old Bazaar since
at least the Bronze Age. A town was first founded here in
the early Byzantine era during the 6th and 7th centuries
when the huge blocks of stone still visible in the fortress’
walls were dragged here from Scupi, the nearby town that
was destroyed during the 518AD earthquake. This was the
great town of Justinia Prima, founded by Emperor Justin-
ian I (c.482-565). From the 14th to the 20th century the Ot-
tomans used the fortress as a military barracks, expanding
the number of towers to 70 of which only three remain to-
day. The 1963 earthquake flattened much of the fortress,
including many of the walls, some of which are being re-
built. Ongoing excavation work over the last decade or
so has revealed many fascinating finds including ancient
musical instruments and, in 2010, the largest collection of
Byzantine-era coins ever discovered in Macedonia. Best
visited with the aid of a local tour guide, there’s not much
to see these days although the views on a clear day are
quite spectacular.QE-2, Samoilova. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Stone Bridge (Камен Мост)
If you stop and think for a minute about how many
people from every echelon of society and representing
so many diverse cultures have walked over this relatively
small bridge connecting Macedonia Square with the
Old Bazaar since its original construction over 550 years
ago you’ll understand why it’s one of the main symbols
of the city and why it features on Skopje’s coat of arms.
Built on the site of an earlier Roman bridge, the current
crossing is made from solid stone blocks and features a
total of 12 arches. At 214m from end to end and just 6m
wide, the bridge narrowly escaped being blown up by
the Nazis in 1944, has been used as an execution site
in the past and is often populated with hawkers selling
cheap Chinese souvenirs and scruffy Romani kids bang-
ing drums for spare change.QE-3
Sightseeing
Contemporary Art Museum of Macedonia
(Музеј на Современа Уметност)
Owing its existence to the 1963 earthquake after which
several sympathetic nations bequeathed works of art to
the flattened and impoverished city, this much talked
about building between the Skopje Fortress and the mas-
sive US Embassy features works from home and abroad
of which the latter includes pieces by Pablo Picasso and
Alexander Calder. As tempting as it sounds, the admission
price is pretty steep, the staff could be more helpful and
most of the work can be seen through the windows. You
decide.QE-1, Samoilova bb, tel. +389 23 11 77 34. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Mother Teresa Memorial House
(Спомен Куќа на Мајка Тереза)
Built on the site of the former Sacred Heart of Jesus Ca-
thedral in which she was baptised, this interesting diver-
sion for some and compulsory pilgrimage for others cel-
ebrates the life and work of the Skopje-born Catholic nun
and missionary Anjezë Gonxhe Bojaxhiu, better known to
the world as Mother Teresa (1910-1997). On two floors and
entered through the door at the top of the stairs, inside is
a host of Teresa memorabilia, personal effects and, on the
top floor, a veritable shrine complete with large windows,
intricate filigree and a large black and white photograph
of the woman herself.QD-4 , Makedonija 9, tel. +389 23
29 06 74, www.memorialhouseofmotherteresa.com.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Museums & Galleries

City Museum (Музеј на Град Скопје)
Drawing on a collection of almost 22,000 individual ar-
tefacts, what this fascinating museum housed inside the
ruined carcass of the city’s exquisite 1940 train station
lacks in financial support it more than makes up for in
content. Among the exhibits are costumes, photographs
and personal possessions from a number of Macedonian
minorities including the Albanians, Jews, Romani, Serbs
and Vlachs, and the 6,000-year-old, 15cm clay Adam
from Govrlevo (Адам од Говрлево) statue, discovered
in 2000 and put on display here in 2006. The statue is
ranked among the world’s top 10 Neolithic artefacts, as
is perhaps the earliest representation of a human fig-
ure including ribs, spine, belly button and a regrettably
chopped-off erection.QKiril i Metodij bb, tel. +389 23
11 36 09, www.mgs.org.mk. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Skopje. Ancient city.

July – December 2017 21


The 6,000-year-old Adam from Govrlevo at the City Museum
(see p.20).
Museum of Macedonia (Музеј на
Македонија)
The large, white and distinctly decrepit Yugoslav building
just below the Mustafa Pasha Mosque is the central loca-
tion for a series of museums located around the Old Ba-
zaar including at the must-see Kuršumli An. Packed with
various cultural items from traditional women’s bridal
costumes to icons, there’s a huge amount of overlap
with other museums in the city centre, and, despite the
state of the place, it’s still a highly recommended place to
visit.QE-2 ,Kjurciska, tel. +389 23 12 93 23. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon.
Museum of Macedonian Struggle
(Музеј на ВМРО)
Opened in 2011 on the 20th anniversary of Macedonian in-
dependence, the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle for
Statehood and Independence to give it its full name charts
22 Skopje In Your Pocket
the long and often painful history of the nation as it sought
to seek its own sovereignty from the period of Ottoman oc-
cupation through to 1991. Composed of 13 separate rooms
focusing on different aspects of the struggle, the museum
is packed with fascinating artefacts, documents and weap-
ons and also features a collection of wax models represent-
ing some of the most important heroes of the period. Visi-
tors are guided through the exhibition by a group of young
and friendly local historians.QE-3, 11 Mart 1, tel. +389 23
25 66 67, www.mmb.org.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
National Archeology Museum
(Национален Археолошки Музеј)
Built as part of the Skopje 2014 project, the National Archaeo-
logical Museum, which also houses the National Archives,
is laid out on three floors representing the huge diversity of
Macedonian life and culture from prehistory to the Ottoman
period and beyond. Featuring over 6,000 artefacts including
flint axes, ancient coins, old paintings, mosaics, wax figures and
video displays, this a fabulous place to start a crash course in
Macedonian history.QE-3, Kej Dimitar Vlahov, tel. +389 23
23 39 99, www.amm.org.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Churches
Church of the Ascension of Jesus
(Црква Св. Спас)
This small church notable for its unusual wooden bell
tower was famously built of couple of metres under-
ground to please the Ottomans and as such is easily
overlooked if you’re not paying attention. Another his-
torical building whose precise history has been lost,
its contemporary appearance for dates from the early
19th century although some aspects stretch back sev-
eral centuries before. Famed for its outstanding wooden
iconostasis, the church is the final resting place of the
revolutionary martyr Goce Delčev (1872-1903) to whom
a small museum has also been built.QE-2, Samoilova,
tel. +389 23 23 07 80.
Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral
(Католичка Црква)
Designed by Blagoja Mickovski (1931-2002) and Slavko Gju-
rich (1931-1980) and constructed between 1973 and 1977,
this fine example of eccentric Yugoslav raw concrete design
replaced the Catholic church of the same name destroyed
by the 1963 earthquake where the Mother Teresa Memorial
House now stands. Complete with an equally bizarre bell
tower and one of the few buildings from the period that
genuinely deserves a visit, Mass is usually held in Croatian
although they sometimes conduct it in English.QB-4, Pe-
tar Pop Arsov 47, tel. +389 23 22 91 67.
St. Clement of Ohrid Cathedral
(Соборен Храм)
Just west of the centre stands Skopje’s modern Orthodox
Cathedral building, also known as the Ministry Temple,
with Saint Clement of Ohrid as its patron. Built in 1972
by architect Slavko Brezovski and consecrated in 1992,
skopje.inyourpocket.com

the building consists solely of arches and domes. It has
a massive chandelier hanging from a central dome that
also features a large Jesus Pantocrator fresco.QD-3, Bul.
Partizanski Odredi 17, tel. +389 77 53 57 83.
St. Demetrius’ Church
(црква Св. Димитрија)
Although the present church has its origins in the 16th cen-
tury, most of the current building, located in the old Jewish
quarter at the northern end of the Stone Bridge, dates from
around 1886. The relatively dark and unremarkable interior
was subject to a supposed miracle during Easter 2012 when
the frescos, darkened by decades of accumulated candle
smoke, began returning to their original bright state, a
cause of continued speculation and probably the result of
increased humidity.QE-3, Plostad Karposhovo Vostanie.
Places of interest
Aqueduct (Аквадукт)
The cause of much speculation as to just who built it and
exactly how old it is, Skopje’s beautiful albeit abandoned
Aqueduct lies in the middle of a field just a couple of kilo-
metres northwest of the city on the northern edge of the Il-
inden Barracks. Although some claim the structure is Roman,
its orientation suggests it dates from a later period and that
it’s either Byzantine or Ottoman in origin. Made of stone and
brick and featuring 55 surviving arches, to get there take the
E-65 towards Kosovo until you reach the village of Vizbegovo
Sightseeing
then take two right turns onto a dirt track and you’ll find it at
the end of a narrow path on the left. The structure is clearly
marked on Google Maps.QBul Slovenija, Vizbegovo.
Plostad Makedonija
(Плоштад Македонија)
Dramatically enlarged by the destruction of the massive
National Bank and Army House during the 1963 earthquake
and until recently surrounded by mostly nondescript archi-
tecture, this vast open space is a popular spot to meet and
socialise and is today instantly recognisable thanks to the
huge Warrior on a Horse monument dominating its centre.
Featuring little of its original form with the exception of the
now protected 1926 Ristiḱ Palace, familiar to all thanks to the
massive Skopsko beer ad on the roof, Plostad Makedonija
(Macedonia Square) is surrounded by an increasing number
of decent bars and restaurants and for many visitors it will be-
come a familiar and often visited landmark. QE-3
Ottoman Skopje
Hundreds of years of Ottoman domination have left Sko-
pje with a distinct Oriental look and feel, and many monu-
ments from the period remain. You’re welcome to visit
the mosques free of charge outside prayer times. Just ask
around for the caretaker if the doors happen to be locked.
To enter a mosque, you should take off your shoes outside,
being careful not to place them on the carpet, and be
modestly dressed.
July – December 2017 23
 The breath-taking interior of Tetovo’s Decorated Mosque (see right).
Čifte Hamam (Чифте Амам)
Dating from the middle of the 15th century, the Čifte
(Double) Hamam in the heart of the Old Bazaar was used
as a bath house as it was originally intended until 1915.
The layout of the building is symmetrical, with the heat-
ing room at its centre and separate bathing areas for men
and women, each with their own entrance, at either ends
of the building. Interestingly, Skopje’s Jews used the place
for ritual bathing too during Ottoman times when a spe-
cial marble pool was installed for them. Reconstructed
after the 1963 earthquake, the building now houses the
city’s Contemporary Art Gallery and is worth visiting for
both the architecture and the wide range of temporary
exhibitions that regularly take place inside.QF-2, Arhi-
episkop Angelari (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 22 79 86,
www.nationalgallery.mk.
Daut Pasha Hamam (Даут Пашин Амам)
Home to the National Art Gallery since 1948, the 15th-cen-
tury Daut Pasha Hamam was built by the eponymous Pasha
himself, supposedly for his harem. The 13-domed building
was designed for separate male and female bathing with
the two large domes at the front marking the original dress-
ing rooms and the smaller domes covering the individual
bathing rooms. As well as housing a small permanent col-
lection of art, the building also serves as a modest venue for
Local time
Macedonia is in the Central European Time (CET) zone
at GMT+1hr. When it’s 12:00 in Skopje it’s 06:00 in New
York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central Eu-
ropean Summer Time (CEST, GMT+2hrs) falls between
the last Sundays of March and October respectively.
24 Skopje In Your Pocket
classical concerts and other events.QE-3, Bul.Goce Delcev
(Old Bazaar), tel. +389 23 13 31 02, www.nationalgallery.
mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Mustafa Pasha Mosque
(Мустафа Паша Џамија)
Towering above the Old Bazaar and featuring a mighty,
42m minaret, the elegant Mustafa Pasha Mosque was
built in 1492 and has incredibly survived every historical
disaster Skopje’s managed to throw at it and as such looks
pretty much the way it did 500 years ago. In the garden is
a türbe holding Mustafa Pasha’s earthly remains as well
as those of one of his daughters. During the summer the
garden fills with sweet-smelling roses and is a great place
to sit and relax.QE-2, Svekjarska, tel. +389 23 29 72 04.
Sultan Murad Mosque
(Султан Мурад Џамија)
A huge and quite simple structure with no dome but a nor-
mal pitched roof, the Sultan Murad (or Hunkar) Mosque dates
from 1463 and is the oldest surviving mosque in the city. Built
on the site of a monastery destroyed by the Ottomans, the
mosque has been burnt down several times during its long
history but retains many old features. Outside are two türbe
(mausoleums) and several gravestones.QOtokar Kershovani.
Jewish Macedonia
Holocaust Memorial Center
(Меморијален Центар на Холокаустот
на Евреите од Македонија)
Opened in March 2011, this better-than-average Skopje
museum commemorates the 7,148 Jews from Macedonia
who were murdered during the Holocaust through a se-
ries of exhibits that draws heavily on a number of sources,
not least the incredible collection of photographs taken
skopje.inyourpocket.com

of the Jews of Bitola by the occupying Bulgarians prior
to their extermination the following year. Also featur-
ing a wide range of other artefacts including, allegedly,
one of the train wagons that sent some of the country’s
Jews to their death in Poland, don’t pay too much at-
tention to the opening hours listed here as the museum
doesn’t do a great job at sticking to them. If you visit and
the doors are bolted, bang hard and somebody might let
you in.QE-3, Samoilova 2, tel. +389 23 29 80 25, www.
holocaustfund.org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Monuments
Skopje 2014 (Скопје 2014)
Taking controversial kitsch to dizzy new heights, depend-
ing on who you want to believe this massive undertaking
designed to both commemorate the centenary of Mace-
donian independence as well as to give the city a more
‘classical’ look and feel has so far cost the taxpayer any-
thing from between €80 million and €560 million. Fea-
turing dozens of statues, several new high profile build-
ings and a handful of new bridges and concrete ships,
the crowning centrepiece is the vast Warrior on a Horse
monument in Macedonia Square, a statue that everybody
knows is supposed to represent Alexander the Great but
that few are admitting to. Causing everything from cries
of despair to indignant outrage (including the story of one
statue whose manhood had to be covered with a pair of
hastily manufactured metal underpants after a group of
female politicians working across the street complained),
the overall poor quality of the work is already beginning
to show. Although there’s no denying the city centre was
fairly ugly before the project began, now it’s completely
surreal.
Parks & Gardens
City Park (Градски Парк)
Laid out at the end of the 19th century, this large pub-
lic space to the north and northwest of the city is an
extremely popular place during the warmer months of
the year. Good for walking, cycling or picnicking in, the
northern edge of the park runs alongside the river which
features a long path popular with the city’s jogging com-
munity. Not just a green space, the park contains sports
halls and tennis courts, a small stage, bars, restaurants and
hotels and also plays host to at least one outdoor night-
club during the summer. In the middle is Skopje Zoo, pre-
viously an embarrassment to the city and now with the
help of some large international donations is at least try-
ing to make efforts to improve the lives of the beasts who
have to live in it.QC-1, Boulevard Ilinden 89.
Out of town
Makedonsko Selo (Macedonian Village)
Situated on atmospheric Mount Vodno in the small
settlement of Gorno Nerezi less than 10km from the
city centre and directly across the road from the in-
Sightseeing
Tetovo
Easily reachable in less than an hour by either bus
or car and perched at the foothills of the impres-
sive Šar Mountains approximately 40km west of
Skopje, the predominantly ethnic Albanian town
of Tetovo offers one or two must-see attractions
for anyone with an interest in the history of the
region in general and the diversity of Islam in par-
ticular. Offering a tantalising glimpse into local Al-
banian urban culture, the town centre is an inter-
esting place to explore on foot and is blessed with
plenty of good places to eat and drink although
its Tetovo’s two key Muslim sights that draw most
of the town’s attention. Close to the centre is
the jaw-dropping Decorated Mosque, originally
constructed in 1438 by Isak Bey and rebuilt four
centuries later by Abdurrahman Pasha. Impressive
enough on the outside, the real attraction awaits
in the interior, proof if ever it was needed that far
from being a suspicious religion, Islam represents
art and culture in abundance. Supposedly requir-
ing more than 30,000 eggs to prepare the paint,
the walls and ceiling are ablaze with brightly
coloured images of flowers, geometric patterns
and a rare example of a depiction of Mecca. Half
a kilometre or so to the west is the impressive
Arabati Baba Tekke, the best surviving example of
a Bektashi monastery in the region. The Bektashi
Order is a dervish sect that fuses elements of Shia
and Sufi thought into a unique blend of Islamic
belief and philosophy, and this sprawling com-
plex, dating originally from the middle of the
16th century, is still active. Feel free to stroll the
grounds, visit the graves of the former baba who
once gave spiritual guidance here and generally
enjoy the peaceful gardens and various religious
buildings scattered around the complex.
credible church in the St. Pantelejmon Monastery,
Makedonsko Selo (Macedonian Village) is a fascinat-
ing complex that combines the very best features of
a traditional outdoor museum with a modern and so-
phisticated dining and accommodation experience.
Covering 12,000 square metres, Makedonsko Selo
features 16 traditional houses representing various
Macedonian architectural traditions from the 19th
and 20th centuries in which there are three fine res-
taurants and a hotel accommodating up to 100 guests.
The complex also has a number of workshops where
visitors can learn about traditional crafts including
silversmithing, ceramics and weaving plus there are
lots of extra events happening here throughout the
year.QGorno Nerezi, tel. +389 72 22 06 00, www.
macedonianvillage.mk. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
08:00 - 20:00.
July – December 2017 25

Cable car to the Millennium Cross (see below).
Matka Canyon (Кањон Матка)
The stunning Matka Canyon is a good reminder of
how close the mountains always are in Macedonia.
Situated just 15km southwest of the city, the 5,000ha
site features a wide range of things to see and do from
enjoying a leisurely lunch on the terrace at the Can-
yon Matka restaurant to going on a boat tour from the
neighbouring small harbour. Bursting with wildlife and
famous for its caving and rock-climbing, to get the
drive west out of the city and take a left onto the P402
that passes through the Albanian village of Saraj on
the way. During the weekends and holidays the road
is closed some distance from the canyon and it’s quite
a long walk past the hydroelectric dam to get there.
The area is also populated with several churches and
monasteries clinging to both sides of the canyon. At
the main site itself is the small St. Andrew’s Church,
built in 1389 and worth the small fee to enter for the
ancient frescos that lie within.Qtel. +389 78 50 30 00,
www.canyonmatka.mk.
Millennium Cross (Милениумски Крст)
Built to celebrate 2,000 years of Christianity and situat-
ed on the highest point on Mount Vodno overlooking
the city, the 66m Millennium Cross is rather dull to be
honest, although the journey to reach it’s a lot of fun.
First you need to take the Millennium Cross double-
decker bus from the bus station to the cable car sta-
tion half way up the mountain at Sredno Vodno. Buses
currently depart every 30 minutes between 08:20 and
15:20 and a one-way ticket, bought from the driver,
costs just 35 den. At Sredno Vodno you’ll find the cable
26 Skopje In Your Pocket
car station, where tickets costs 120 den for the return
journey. At the Millenium Cross itself there’s little to
keep visitors hanging around beyond the spectacular
view on a good day. The café underneath is a good
spot for a cup of coffee or an ice-cream, which can be
consumed on the outdoor terrace in good weather. At
night the Millennium Cross is brightly lit and actually a
rather beautiful sight.Qtel. +389 70 80 66 26, www.
zicnica.jsp.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
St. Pantelejmon Monastery
(Манастир Св. Пантелејмон)
Perched 771m above Skopje in the small settlement of
Gorno Nerezi, the monastery complex of St. Pantelej-
mon would be otherwise unremarkable if it wasn’t for
the small church that sits on the site. Built way back in
1164, this unprepossessing, classic Byzantine building
hides a series of original frescos that totally changed the
course of Western art and that played an extensive role
in kick-starting the Renaissance a couple of centuries
later. Famous for breaking the rules of what was up until
then a very strict style of religious painting, the frescos
depict the usual Orthodox themes including the Lam-
entation of Christ, the Dormition of the Mother of God
and others, but what sets them apart from everything
that went before them is that the artists have breathed
life into the figures. Before Pantelejmon, it was never al-
lowed to show emotion in painting, making such pic-
tures as the extraordinary fresco of Mary holding a dead
Jesus in her arms, complete with an anguished face and
tears in her eyes, utterly extraordinary.QGorno Nerezi,
tel. +389 23 08 12 55.
Guided tours
Like many vibrant Balkan cities, Skopje is very much a des-
tination for the flâneur. Wandering about without a care
in the world, exploring the city’s hidden courtyards and
venturing off the beaten track will all be rewarded with
unexpected encounters with some fabulous buildings and
a random sampling of its friendly inhabitants. For those
who prefer more orderly tours, Skopje provides plenty of
choice. Most hotels can arrange guided tours, plus there
are one or two free walking tours that crop up from time
to time if you look around. Visitors with hangovers and hip
replacements will be delighted to learn that there’s also a
daily tour on an open-top red bus (tel. +389 23 17 29 20)
departing from several locations around the city.
Lea Bassa (Леа Баша)
Lea Bassa is an extremely knowledgeable and easy-going
local who can walk you around Skopje and introduce you
to the city from a personal as well as a professional per-
spective. For those looking for adventures further afield,
Lea is also the go-to person at Hiking the Balkans, a com-
pany that pretty much says what it does in its title. What-
ever you need from Lea, we guarantee you an extremely
amiable and professional experience.Qtel. +389 77 85 97
06, www.hikingthebalkans.com.
skopje.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing

July – December 2017 27

 Ohrid
Typical souvenirs of the kind found everywhere in Ohrid.
If you’ve ever visited Skopje during the summer and wondered
where everybody was, the answer is Ohrid. Claiming the im-
pressively rare title of UNESCO World Heritage Site for both
its culture and its nature, Macedonia’s foremost leisure capital
offers visitors not only the chance to mess about on one of
Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, it also boasts several histori-
cal sights that are worth the air alone. Less than 200km from
the capital and right on the edge of the awesome Galičica Na-
tional Park, Ohrid’s diminutive dimensions make it a friendly
destination for those who can’t be bothered to travel large
distances to experience lots of culture whilst also serving as a
potential base for adventures further afield.
Essential Ohrid
Church of Sts. Clement & Pantelejmon
(Св.Климент и Пантелеј)
A Byzantine beauty whose precise origins are shrouded in
mystery and that’s thought to have been built on the site
where the Glagolitic script, the forerunner to today’s Cyrillic
script, was created and that some people say was designed
by St. Clement of Ohrid (840-916) himself. Briefly converted
into a mosque by the Ottomans during the 15th century,
unlike many similar churches, the magic surrounding this
place isn’t so much about its architectural splendour or
what treats lie waiting inside but has much more to do with
its associations with several renowned figures, making it
one of the holiest sites in the region.QKuzman Kapidan.
Plaošnik (Плаошник)
Along with the Amphitheatre, the remains of this early
Christian basilica that’s believed to date from the 5th cen-
tury is pretty much all that’s left of the ancient Greek city
of Lychnidos on which Ohrid was built. Until recently little
more than a series of broken walls, excavation work has re-
vealed a floor surface made of exquisite mosaics featuring
exotic birds and other animals as well as some geometric
30 Skopje In Your Pocket
designs including a few swastikas. A raise walkway has been
built around the site allowing visitors to get a close-up look
of this marvellous spectacle.Qtel. +389 46 25 40 13.
Samuel’s Fortress (Самоилова Тврдина)
Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria (?-1014), who moved the capital
of the Bulgarian Empire from Skopje to Ohrid in 990, is a
controversial figure in modern Macedonia and his fortress
overlooking the town is another of the town’s buildings
shrouded in myth and mystery. Believed to have been
constructed on a much earlier fortress dating from the 4th
century BC, little remains of this once grand stronghold
with the exception of the remaining outer wall structures,
a few watch towers and four original gates. Despite the
fortress being in a relative bad condition, the small en-
trance fee to get inside is worth the trip up the hill for both
gaining a better understanding of the former strategic
importance of Ohrid and for the related views of lake and
surrounding mountains.Qtel. +389 46 26 23 86.
Other sights
As well as the places listed below, there are plenty of other
worthwhile sights to see in town including the outstanding
16th-century Ali Pasha Mosque in the Old Bazaar, the fas-
cinating National Workshop for Handmade Paper and not
forgetting the lake itself, one of the oldest and deepest in
Europe and a UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site.
Amphitheatre (Амфитеатар)
Built in around 200BC, the remains of this spectacular out-
door theatre laid buried and forgotten for over a thousand
years. Discovered completely by accident in the 1980s,
these days the former location of gladiator battles and
murdering Christians is now used for less violent affairs
and is a popular location for all manner of performances
during the summer.QIlindenska.
skopje.inyourpocket.com

Church of St. Bogorodica Bolnička
(ЦРКВА Св. Богородица Болничка)
Bolnička is the Macedonian word for hospital and, along
with another similar church in Ohrid, this often over-
looked little gem once served as a place of quarantine
where visitors to the town during the period of the Black
Death were required to stay for 40 days before being al-
lowed to mingle with the inhabitants. Inside are some
fantastic 14th-century frescoes, a 19th-century iconosta-
sis and little else.QCar Samoil. Open 09:00 - 13:00.
Church of St. John at Kaneo (Канео)
Fusing together Byzantine and Armenian architectural
church styles and almost as famous for its location as for
the building itself, the date of the construction of this par-
ticular masterpiece has been lost to history, although sur-
viving documents suggest it’s been standing on the edge
of the cliff overlooking the lake since at least 1447. The
unusual exterior stone carvings create a good excuse to
follow the track around the water to find the place and the
frescos painted on the dome, hidden until 1964, are well
worth the neck-ache you’ll get staring at them in wonder.
QKaneo Plaoshnik Pateka, tel. +389 46 23 04 55.
Church of St. Sophia (ЦРКВА Св. Софија)
Constructed during the period when the Bulgarian Em-
pire ruled over the town, many experts claim that this his-
torically important church dates as far back at the end of
the 9th century. Another Orthodox building to have suf-
fered the fate of being turned into a mosque at the hands
of the Ottomans, the beautifully preserved frescos inside
date from between the 11th and 13th centuries. Such is
the importance of the building that you’ll find it lurking
on the back of the 1,000 den banknote.QCar Samoil, tel.
+389 46 26 74 03.
Church of the Holy Mother of God
Peribleptos (Црква Пресвета Богородица
Перивлептос)
One of the oldest churches in Ohrid, this magnificent
structure was built in 1295 and is particular interesting for
the frescos that lie within. Among the many outstanding
works painted here are originals by Michael Astrapas and
Eutychios, 13th-century painters from Thessaloniki who
signed works literally take your breath away. Known to
many locals as the Macedonian Sistine Chapel due to the
amazing images on the domed ceiling, the church is also
home to small collection of black and white photographs
depicting Ohrid during the Ottoman period. Across the
courtyard is the town’s recommended Icon Gallery.
Robevi Family House (Куќата на Робеви)
Housed inside a fine old house built in 1864 and giving
the place its name, this lovely museum on three floors
features many wonderful examples of ancient statues and
other stone monuments collected during archaeological
expeditions in the region, a carved torso of the Goddess
Isis dating from the 2nd century BC and an ancient gold
burial mask and glove unearthed on top of the hill close to
Ohrid
Samuel’s Fortress.QCar Samoil 62, tel. +389 46 26 24 93.
Open 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Out of town
Bay of Bones (Заливот на коските)
If you’re planning a trip to the fabulous St. Naum Monastery
and have the means to stop, this somewhat speculative
reconstruction of a prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement jut-
ting out over the water offers an interesting diversion for 30
minutes or so. Based on recent underwater archaeological
work on a settlement from around 1000BC, find several wo-
ven huts that can be entered that include reconstructions of
the living conditions of the people that once lived here. The
building next to the site contains a small museum with lots
of information and a small café. The Bay of Bones is also the
place where you can arrange scuba diving trips to the subter-
ranean archaeological site and is, perhaps surprisingly, cur-
rently the most popular attraction in Ohrid. Just to the north
is a recreation of a small Roman fort that can also be visited.
QGradishte, tel. +389 46 26 24 98. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
St. Naum Monastery (Манастир Св. Наум)
Dating from 905AD, the beautiful monastery complex of St.
Naum some 28km south of Ohrid and close to the Albanian
border boasts some of the most extraordinary frescos and
icon paintings in Macedonia. Now complete with restau-
rant, gift shops, boat tours and peacocks running wild in the
gardens, the original monastery was founded by St. Naum
(c.830 -910), a disciple of Sts. Cyril and Methodius. Adven-
turous travellers visiting the monastery by car with a few
hours to spare might be interested to learn that the nearby
border crossing is seldom busy and that an unscheduled
trip to Albania is highly recommended. Entering Albania is
a simple procedure, and the recommended lakeside town
of Pogradec is less than 20 minutes away.QLjubanishta.
restaurants
In keeping with the Macedonian tradition of the unexpect-
ed, Ohrid’s status as a tourist resort means it should be pop-
ulated with lots of restaurants serving poor quality food at
exorbitant prices, but this just isn’t the case. The town is full
of great places to eat, of which many serve variations on the
local Ohrid trout which is an absolute must-try when visit-
ing. A lot of restaurants and cafés in town also serve the leg-
endary Ohrid cake, another artery-clogging essential to be
tried when in town. Here are a few of our favourite haunts.
Dr. Falafel
With no sign of a hipster anywhere in sight, this refresh-
ingly basic little kiosk serves falafel, hummus, bread to
wrap it in and little else beyond a refrigerator full of soft
drinks. There’s a handful of tables inside and out, although
the best way to enjoy the food here is to take it away and
devour it on the hoof whilst strolling around the Old Ba-
zaar. A welcome addition to Ohrid’s underwhelming di-
versity of eating establishments indeed.Q7mi Noemvri
8, tel. +389 77 89 71 67. Open 09:30 - 22:30. P­A­W
July – December 2017 31
 Take to the sky with Fly Ohrid (see right).
Sveta Sofija
A good place to try both the local trout and cake, as the name
suggests this classy establishment overlooks the eponymous
church and comes complete with a few small outside tables
for staring at it when you’re eating. Serving the purpose of
both café and full-blooded restaurant, the menu is stuffed
with Macedonian and international dishes that although not
exactly venturing into the realms of gourmet cuisine are cer-
tainly delicious enough to keep the place open. Like many res-
taurants in the area, Sveta Sofija features live music most eve-
nings.QCar Samoil 88, tel. +389 46 26 74 03. P­A­B­W
Belvedere
Not to be confused with the hotel restaurant of the same name,
this lovely old-fashioned place with busy waiters, delicious
grilled meat dishes and occasional live folk music is located in a
central location very close to the edge of the lake. The interior
décor speaks volumes about the owner, who has something
verging on a fetish for the antique look, whilst outside is a small
terrace in the shade of three trees. Alongside the classic grilled
food are a cavalcade of other dishes, all made from the fresh-
est of local ingredients.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 77 10.
Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­A­B­W
Biljanini Izvori
Aka the Biljana Springs and located at the popular attrac-
tion, we came here for the legendary trout čiorba (sour
soup) for breakfast, an unusual choice you might be think-
ing but it actually works, and it’s also one of the best fish
soups we’ve ever tasted. Surplus to the soup is a range
32 Skopje In Your Pocket
of fine Macedonian and international dishes served either
inside their antique-looking restaurant or on their mas-
sive terrace next to the running water. The outside space
features lots of things to keep the kids amused, including
a renovated wooden boat constructed in Ohrid about 80
years ago.QNaum Ohridski bb, tel. +389 46 26 68 16.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Čun
A nice restaurant overlooking the lake in the centre of town
including an impressive breakfast menu of bacon, eggs,
omelette, continental breakfast and the like plus stews,
shopska salad, pancakes and plenty of fish. Decorated with
hanging fishing nets and featuring a small upstairs terrace
with terrific views, service is friendly and food comes highly
recommended.QKosta Abrash 4, tel. +389 46 25 56 03.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­B­W
Kaj Tanya Pod-Drum
A small, family-run restaurant that’s managed to retain an
old-fashioned atmosphere without the need to go over
the top, it’s cheap and cheerful here and the food on offer
is the closest you’ll come to home cooking when in town.
The menu features a host of Macedonian favourites plus
burgers, wraps and a few other surprises. People who pre-
fer to eat with their mouths and eyes will be delighted to
discover that there’s no music pouring out the speakers in
this place, a welcome relief indeed.QCar Samoil 23, tel.
+389 46 20 50 03. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
01:00. P­A­B­W
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Ohrid
Leonardo
A long established Italian favourite in the centre of town ACTIVE LEISURE
churning out a good selection of pizzas using only the
best ingredients, Leonardo is also the place to head to for
Not everyone who visits Ohrid comes to lie in the sun. A
other Italian favourites including some fine meat dishes
UNESCO World Heritage Site for its natural qualities as well
and their recommended tagliatelle for vegetarians. The
as its culture, adrenaline junkies will simply love the count-
other thing we really like about this place are the late
less ways in which it’s possible to get into all manner of
working hours during the weekend, when everyone else
potentially dangerous situations in and around the town..
is ready for bed and you need to eat.QCar Samoil 33, tel.
+389 46 26 03 59. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 02:00. P­J­A­B­W Air
Fly Ohrid
Aleksandrija
A local organisation of professionals who’ll whisk up
A proper pizza takes around 90 seconds to cook, and
a mountain and take you for a tandem paragliding
ours came in seven minutes, which isn’t bad consider-
adventure complete with absolutely stunning views.
ing we weren’t the only ones eating here at the time. Al-
Qtel. +389 75 50 84 93, www.flyohrid.com.
though there’s lots to eat here, Aleksandrija quite rightly
and quite sensibly promotes itself as a pizza restaurant,
because that’s without a shadow of a doubt what they Land
do best. The lake-view location right in the centre of the
Galičica National Park
action is pretty hard to beat too.QKosta Abras bb, tel.
Covering an area of over 200 square kilometres and locat-
+389 76 21 07 27. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
ed on the mountain of the same name, this beautiful re-
01:00. P­A ­B
gion is perfect for a whole range of land-based activities
including hiking, mountain biking and rock-climbing.
Cosa Nostra
For more information, ask at your hotel or take a look at
Found in a lovely setting and complete with a fine old
the excellent www.hikingthebalkans.com.QVelestovski
terrace, Cosa Nostra wins bonus points before we’ve
pat, tel. +389 46 26 14 73, www.galicica.org.mk.
even mentioned the great food and the even better
prices. Fancy without being too fancy, they knock out
some impressively creative pizzas here alongside a Water
range of other dishes including their highly praised la-
Amfora
sagne. There’s also a good selection of beers here and
A professional scuba diving company based at the Bay of
some fine bottles of Macedonian wine.QKosta Abras
Bones 16km or so south of Ohrid offering everything from
50, tel. +389 46 23 02 40. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun
lessons for beginners to full underwater trips to the nearby
10:00 - 24:00. P­A ­B ­W
underwater archaeological site.QGradishte, tel. +389 71
35 98 10, www.amfora.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Cafés
Fruit Box
The idea of cold coffee may seem like anathema to many,
but if you find yourself in Ohrid in July or August you
Bars & Clubs
might just change your mind. The mocha frappaccinos If you can’t find any decent nightlife in Ohrid during the sum-
here are worth their weight in gold when all you want to mer then you might want to try pinching yourself because it’s
do is stay in the lake until the sun goes down, plus there’s possible you fell asleep in the hotel when you were getting
lots of freshly squeezed fruit juices and a modicum of light ready to go out. The town centre is so small all you really need
snacks if you’re feeling peckish.QKliment Ohridski, tel. to do is follow your eyes and ears until you find something you
+389 78 23 76 59. Open 09:00 - 21:00. like. In the meantime, here are a few places to get you started.

Shilla Coffee Bar Cuba Libre Beach & Bar

The nearest thing you’ll find to a hipster hangout in Ohrid,
this pleasant and extremely friendly place found up a
small flight of stairs in the heart of the Old Bazaar spe-
cialises in good coffee, even better smoothies and some
half-way decent cocktails. The young people who run
Shilla like to refer to themselves as homies, something
reflected in the choice of music they like to play, music
that also makes an occasional live performance here.QSv
Kliment Ohridski, tel. +389 78 26 23 61. Open 08:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. B
This infamous Ohrid night spot maintains a nightclub all year
round at Partizanska 2, whilst the summer season sees the
opening of their hedonistic, lakeside club in which a small
beach just south of the centre is converted into a place of
cocktails, snacks, good-looking people and very loud music.
Policed by serious-looking bouncers who exercise a certain
amount of face control, Friday and Saturday nights feature
DJs and live music until the very early hours of the morn-
ing.QNaum Ohridski 10a, tel. +389 71 23 14 00, www.
cubalibreohrid.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­A­IE ­ ­W

July – December 2017 33

 Ohrid
duBlin
Despite Dublin being the best Irish pub in Ohrid, it’s not ex-
actly a memorable one, although unlike the Irish pub around
the corner they do at least serve Guinness, albeit from a can. If
you’re used to Irish pubs being popular with expats and their
local colleagues, Dublin will come as a bit of a surprise as it
tends to attract a youngish and somewhat nondescript local
crowd most evenings. If you do find yourself having a session
in here, the huge plates of hot snacks are well worth forking
out for.QKej Makedonija 45, tel. +389 46 20 00 40, www.
irishpubdublinohrid.mk. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PABW
duck caFé
Run by a local music enthusiast and situated inside a gor-
geous old building right next to the lake, the fabulous
Duck Café’s neon sign proclaims Jazz & Blues which is
slightly misleading as almost all of the live music played
here is rock. The drinks are a bit pricey and the music is
very much hit and miss, but if you hit it on a good night it’s
well worth it. The staff speak good English, so we recom-
mend you drop by early to find out what evening events
are planned for the next few days.QKej Makedonija 1,
tel. +389 46 25 68 18. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PABW
liquid
We found ourselves grabbing for the defibrylator on entering
Liquid, a boisterous affair that gives the impression of being a
practice space for the world smoking championships, a pure-
vilamina.com.mk
info@vilamina.com.mk
+389 (0)46 270 444
34 Skopje In Your Pocket
ly made-up event that the kids who hang out here would al-
most certainly win should such a thing exist. A great place to
meet young locals, and thankfully possessing an al fresco ter-
race next to the water, find it along the dark alley that leads to
St. Sophia.QKosta Abrash 17, tel. +389 46 25 85 52, www.
liquid.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PYBW
noa
A whopping great lounge overlooking the lake, this lively and
at times chaotic venue features staff running around trying to
keep the punters happy, who during our last visit were a pre-
dominantly young crowd having a good time and drinking
vast amounts of wine like it was going out of fashion. It gets
very loud in here during the evenings, but the terrace over-
hanging the water pretty much makes up for the mayhem.
One of several similar places along this stretch of water, if you
can’t find a seat and/or waitress in here there are several other
options a minute or two away.QKosta Abrash 38, tel. +389
72 21 09 03, www.noaloungebar.mk. Open 09:00 - 01:00.
PJABSW
hotels
Belvedere
A couple of kilometres out of the centre on the main road to-
wards St. Naum, this glorious hotel with large balconies over-
looking the lake offers a collection of well appointed rooms
with terrific views and all mod cons. The friendly staff will
www.eurorent.mk info@eurorent.mk
f: EURORENT-MACEDONIA
tel:+389 (0)47 24 15 15; +389 (0)78 339 703
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Ohrid
bend over backwards to accommodate bleary-eyed guests in
search of coffee in the middle of the night who are too impa-
tient to wait for breakfast, and the location is a blessing dur-
ing the high season when the over-populated centre thumps
and vibrates to the miscellaneous rhythms of hedonism long
into the night. A taxi in or out of the action currently costs
just 200den.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 27 77 10, www.
hotelbelvedere.com.mk. P­­T­H­A­U­L­K­W

Hotel Aura
Just south of town and right up close to the water’s edge,
this completely renovated hotel features a total of 68
rooms and a couple of suites, all complete with minibars,
en suite bathrooms, all mod cons and extra living rooms
and Jacuzzis in the aforementioned suites. There’s guarded
parking. A Macedonian restaurant serving great food and
excellent wine, coffee bar with outdoor terrace and much
more. A taxi to the centre never costs more than 200 den
plus there’s always the option of following the pretty path
for those with the energy.QP501 Sveti Stefan, tel. +389 27
73 65, www.hotelbeton.mk. P­­A­L­K­W

Hotel Filip
Hotel Filip is your classic waterside hotel and features a
choice of renovated rooms, studios and apartments with
all the necessary facilities plus restaurant, bicycle hire,
billiards and a lovely outdoor swimming pool. The nice
gentleman who owns this place also has a couple of other
hotels in Ohrid and can help arrange all sorts of activities
as well as rent you a car and take you on a catamaran trip.
The hotel is a few kilometres south of the town centre,
making taxis (about 300den) essential for those without
their own transport.QSv Stefan bb, tel. +389 46 20 97
10, www.hotelfilip.mk. P­­T­H­A­L­K­C­W

Park Golden View

Offering an excellent choice of rooms, suites and apartments
with either a mountain or a lake view and some coming with
their own spacious balconies, this superb hotel just to the
south of Ohrid is located in a lovely secluded spot right on the
edge of the lake and features good, business-like rooms with
all the trimmings plus a galaxy of other treats including out-
door swimming pool, free parking, tennis court and, for those
who want to ride in and out of town and keep fit at the same
time, bicycle rental.QNaum Ohridski 10A, tel. +389 77 63
16 32, www.parkgoldenview.com.mk. P­­A­L­C­W

Vila Mina
A popular choice with visiting groups and situated very close
to the lake, the well equipped rooms and studio apartments
here are lovely places to spend the night in with little extras
including kettles and bigger extras including a gorgeous out-
door swimming pool with great views of Lake Ohrid and the
nearby mountains. Despite being a little way out of town and
therefore possibly requiring the frequent use of a cheap taxi,
there are plenty of good reasons to stay here, among them
the regular garden barbecues that really make a stay here
something special.QLagadin, tel. +389 47 27 04 44, www.
vilamina.com.mk. P­­A­L­B­K­W

July – December 2017 35

H O T E L
 Restaurants
Bitola
One of the mosaics at Heraclea Lyncestis (see right).
Founded in the 4th century BC and one of Macedonia’s
oldest cities, Bitola is a delightful mishmash of architectural
styles, animated cafés and historical intrigue. Close to the
border with northern Greece and a former home of none
other than Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the country’s unofficial
cultural capital sits on the eastern rim of the spectacular
Pelister National Park and on a good day is barely two
hours away from Skopje. Brimming with great hotels and
restaurants and blessed with enough sights to require the
services of the former, we’ve condensed our favourite bits
of it into the following pages so that you too can enjoy
this still relatively undiscovered Balkan gem and tell your
friends you went there before it was famous.
Essential Bitola
Even if you’re only in town for a couple of hours or so, we
thoroughly recommend that you find the time to visit the
following three places.
Bitola Museum (НУ Завод и музеј Битола)
Constructed as a military high school in 1848 when Bitola
was known as Manastir and the building in which Mustafa
Kemal Atatürk received his military training, the fascinat-
ing Bitola Museum is packed with fine examples repre-
senting the region’s most valuable cultural and historical
artefacts. Tracing the history of the region back to prehis-
toric times, this is by far the best way to get to know the
38 Skopje In Your Pocket
city and its rich and complicated past. Also located inside
the museum are a couple of rooms dedicated to Atatürk,
complete with original documents, military costumes and
a short film.QSv Kliment Ohridski bb, tel. +389 47 23 31
87, www.muzejbitola.mk. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
Heraclea Lyncestis (Хераклеа)
Located along what was once the strategically important
Via Egnatia, the extremely well preserved town of Hera-
clea Lyncestis was founded in the 4th century BC by Philip
II of Macedon. Including original Greek and later Roman
elements, highlights include the Roman amphitheatre,
fragments of remaining hypocaust and two beautifully
preserved mosaics. There’s also a small museum, and
the friendly gentleman running the place is full of inside
knowledge about the place. The site is signposted from
the city centre, but there’s no sign for major turn off point.
To get there, head south on the road towards Greece, turn
right onto Bukovska and it’s a little way down on the right.
Qtel. +389 47 23 53 29. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
Širok Sokak (Широк Сокак)
Roughly translating as Wide Street and stretching from
the City Park in the south as far north as the Bezistan,
as well as possessing some of the city’s finest histori-
cal buildings this long pedestrian thoroughfare is also
the major focus for socialising in Bitola. Lined with
busy cafés and one or two modern hotels, of particu-
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Bitola
lar interest are the consulate buildings, especially the
bombastic-looking Russian at the northern end, and Jewish Bitola
the lovely Neo-Gothic Catholic church dating from
1909. Eagled-eyed readers will have noticed that this
isn’t what the street’s actually called, it’s official name
being Marsal Tito.

Other sights
Representing the many historical influences that have
shaped the city, Bitola is blessed with countless sights to
visit and explore. Recommended are the large and busy
Old Bazaar and its neighbouring covered Bezistan, the
Clock Tower, whose origins remain a matter of some dis-
pute but whose current appearance dates from the first
half of the 19th century, several splendid mosques and
the beautifully maintained French Military Cemetery hon-
ouring the memory of the French soldiers who died here
during the First World War. An excellent source of more
information can be found on the English website at www.
bitolatourist.info.
Cafés
You know you must be near Greece when every outdoor
terrace in town is packed with young men with stubbly
chins and mirror sunglasses sipping coffee and staring into
space. Café culture is one of the things Bitola is famous for,
although there’s plenty more options for those looking for
something more substantial than caffeine. Writing about
restaurants in Macedonia is always hard because the food
is almost always exceptionally good. Here are just a few of
our current favourites.
Café Pajton
Arguably the best café in Bitola, and certainly the most
renowned, Café Pajton is the place to head to for perfect
coffee accompanied by a mid-afternoon apéritif if you’re
feeling in the mood and a lazy lounge on the terrace
watching the world go by. Although there’s no shortage
of similar places in the neighbourhood, nobody does it
quite as well as they do.QSirok Sokak 87, tel. +389 47 23
10 70. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­A­
B­W
The history of the predominantly Sephardic Jewish
community of Bitola, which numbered over 3,000
men, woman and children before the war, stretches
back centuries and ended on a single day in 1943
when the entire population was deported to the Tre-
blinka extermination camp in 1943. All that remains of
this once diverse community are an extraordinary col-
lection of portrait photographs made by the occupy-
ing Bulgarian forces in 1942 that’s now housed at the
Macedonian State Archives in Skopje and the forlorn-
looking looking Jewish Cemetery in the north-eastern
suburbs of the city.
Jewish Cemetery (Еврејски Гробишта)
Bitola’s large former Jewish Cemetery occupies the
side of a hill immediately north of the roundabout that
leads to the road to Skopje. Dating back to just five years
after the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492, ap-
proximately 1,000 stone graves remain intact and the
cemetery is generally open, except, somewhat strangely,
when it’s raining. Supposedly containing a museum on
the small building that marks the cemetery entrance, we
saw little of note through the window, and a major plan
to turn the site into a memorial park seems to be moving
at a snail’s pace.QIlindenska 1.

Restaurants
Bela Kuka Bistro
By all accounts one of the best places to eat in town both
for the ambience and the food, this highly recommended
in-house hotel restaurant complete with a lovely terrace
during the summer churns out a splendid selection of lo-
cal and international dishes to suit all tastes. Compliment-
ed with some very decent Macedonian wines, the menu
features a number of dishes you’ve probably never heard
of, something the waiters will be only too pleased to help
with.QDimitar Ilievski-Murato 20, tel. +389 47 22 52 25,
www.belakuka.mk. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
01:00. P­J­A­B­W

July – December 2017 39

 Bitola
Nightlife
As is the same with most Macedonian towns and cities,
bars and clubs in Bitola come and go with the weather,
with many of the best places being summer-only ven-
ues. At the time of writing it was impossible to predict
what might happen during this year’s season, and so
visitors looking for fresh nightlife in the city are advised
ask a local when they arrive. In the meantime, here’s a
couple of perennial favourites to get you started.
Porta Jazz
A great place for a coffee or a beer during the day,
this legendary venue in the city centre comes into
its own every evening as a lively bar that as the name
suggests leans heavily in the direction of jazz music.
Featuring friendly staff and a mixed crowd of drink-
ers and music-lovers, during the week the music is
generally recorded, whereas the weekends are given
over to live performances, sometimes in the guise of a
DJ and often with a live band.QKiril i Metodij 12, tel.
+389 47 20 80 33. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 01:00. P­A­W
Rascekor
A veritable Bitola institution that’s been crowding
people in for longer than most people who come
here can remember, this extremely lively club is the
top venue in town to head to for wild nights, beautiful
people, smoke machines and everything the Mace-
donians love about nightlife. Events here include
everything from live music to DJs to party nights for
students.QPartizanska 21, tel. +389 75 35 78 78,
www.rascekor.com. Open 00:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Wed. P­W
Bure
An absolute must-visit when in town, this exceptional
combined restaurant and bar is perfect for coffee, snacks,
a full-blown meal or an evening on the booze. The ec-
centric interior features a table made from an old grand
piano and lots of other talking points, although if the
weather’s behaving itself the best place to enjoy Bure is
on the terrace complete with a view of the Russian Con-
sulate across the street. You’ll find dishes here that don’t
exist anywhere else, all of them close to perfection and
demanding you return as soon as your stomach’s ready
for more.QMarshal Tito 88, tel. +389 47 22 55 77, www.
bure.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.
P­J­A­B­W
Korzo
Pizza and grilled meat are the big draws in this place,
the Korzo pizza being something of a popular favourite
among its regular clients. We on the other hand recom-
40 Skopje In Your Pocket
mend one of the grilled meat dishes, preferably served
with one of their famous salads and washed down
with plenty of wine produced in the nearby mountains
or an ice-cold glass of local beer. The interior has been
decorated with lots of crisp colours and has an extremely
unique feel to it, although during the peak holiday season
the restaurant’s sprawling outdoor terrace is the place
to be.QMarshal Tito 95, tel. +389 47 24 18 88, www.
restorantkorzo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
01:00. P­J­A­B­W
Kus Kus
Owned and operated by a local and his French wife,
Kus Kus (as in couscous) claims to be a pizza restaurant,
which is sort of true considering the mind-boggling
amount of them on the menu, but it also serves a wide
variety of other dishes, among them some excellent
meatballs and even a version of curry. Like most dining
experiences in Macedonia, a visit to Kus Kus is often ac-
companied with a feeling of impending weight gain that
can only be rectified by a long walk in the mountains.
Unlike many restaurants in Bitola, this place has very lim-
ited outside seating, and booking advance during the
summer months is highly recommended.QKiril i Meto-
dij 2A, tel. +389 47 22 26 03, www.kuskus.mk. Open
09:00 - 01:00. P­J ­A ­W
HOTELS
There are some 30 hotels in Bitola in total, making find-
ing a room for a night or two not that difficult. Covering
a wide range of styles and budgets, accommodation is
in general astonishingly cheap for what you get, making
fleapits and hostels necessary only for those travelling on
especially tight budgets. Many of the best (and best value)
restaurants are not surprisingly in the city centre, which is
worth pointing out can get quite noisy late at night during
the weekend.
Bela Kuka
A choice of luxury rooms and large suites await guests at
this excellent value hotel right the centre of the city. Accom-
modation is bright and spacious and every room comes
with free wireless internet, minibar and good en suite bath-
room facilities. There’s air conditioning when you need it
plus the added bonus of the much talked about in-house
bistro bar.QDimitar Ilievski-Murato 20, tel. +389 47 22 52
25, www.belakuka.mk. P­­J­A­L­K­W
Epinal Spa & Casino
Another great choice in the city centre for those who
like their facilities with lots of extras, the Epinal’s rooms
all have a very distinctness business feel about them and
all come with everything necessary for a relaxing stay
including free wireless internet, excellent bathrooms
and minibars. Among the many extras here are a ca-
sino, sauna, gym and indoor swimming pool.QMarshal
Tito bb, tel. +389 47 22 47 77, www.hotelepinal.com.
P­OJHA­F­L­K­D­C­W
skopje.inyourpocket.com
Bitola Museum.
Kapri
On the western edge of town close to the road in from
Ohrid, the Kapri features a small selection of doubles and
a suite, decorated in bright red colours and complete
with everything visitors need for a comfortable business
or leisure stay. Extras here include a choice of restaurants
serving good Macedonian food, conference facilities and
secure parking.QDovledzik bb, tel. +389 47 25 65 00,
www.kapri.com.mk. P­A­L­K­W
Korzo
A good selection of rooms and studios smack bang in the
centre of the action, this beautifully renovated hotel is a
great option for those looking for luxury at a fraction of
the cost usually associated with such accommodation.
Find a host of things in the rooms on arrival, from the usu-
al to the more surprising such as kettles and sculpted tow-
el-animals waiting expectantly on the beds. The in-house
restaurant serves great local and Italian food.QMarks i
Engels 2a, tel. +389 70 33 26 78, www.hotelkorzo.com.
P­J­A­K­W
Millenium Palace
In an unbeatable location, the rooms are all excellent,
coming with free wireless internet, minibars and opu-
lent bedspreads for a truly stately sleep. There’s a decent
downstairs restaurant and a nice bar and restaurant
too.QMarshal Tito 48, tel. +389 47 24 10 01, www.
milleniumpalace.com.mk. P­­J­H­A­K­W
Out of town
Sumski Feneri
With something of an Alpine feel to the place, the Sumski
Feneri’s location at the edge of the Pelister National Park a
few kilometres west of Bitola won’t suit everyone, but if you’re
travelling by car and like the idea of staying in a marvellous
hotel where they practically give the rooms away for free, this
may be just what you’re looking for. The individually furnished
rooms come with everything for a comfortable stay from the
now almost compulsory free wireless internet to branded toi-
letries in the bathrooms. Other bonuses include great dining
and some truly spectacular views.QS. Trnovo, tel. +389 47
29 31 31, www.sumskifeneri.com. ­A­L­K­W
Hostels
Hostel Voyage
In the northwest of the city a few minutes’ walk from
the main sights, facilities range from individual rooms
to dormitories sleeping up to eight people, all with
free wireless internet. Bathrooms and cooking facili-
ties are shared, plus there’s a communal lounge with
television and DVD player. One of the cheapest op-
tions in town, this is also a great place for backpack-
ers to meet like-minded travellers visiting the region.
QIlindenska 240, tel. +389 78 66 53 05. i­6­L­W
July – December 2017 41
 Getting Around
Go for a ride on a Chinese London bus
Skopje’s compact centre makes few demands on its public
transport system. If you need to travel a fair distance, taxis
are in abundance, and, if you chose the right one, cheap.
Getting around the country is also not too difficult.
Taxis
We’ve travelled in literally hundreds of taxis in Skopje and
have never once had a problem, although taxis being
taxis (or rather taxi drivers being taxi drivers) this doesn’t
mean that riding in a cab in the Macedonian capital is
always a pleasure. There are plenty of stories out there
about rip-offs, and for sure they do exist, especially when
it comes to the ones waiting outside the bus station and
(to a much lesser extent these days) at the airport. If ever
in doubt, negotiate a sensible price beforehand or make
sure the meter is running before you set off. The starting
rate for all taxis in Skopje is 50 den, which is valid for the
first two kilometres. After that you pay an additional 20
den per kilometre, day and night. Waiting is charged at
300 den per hour.
In Taxi
Qtel. +389 21 55 51, www.intaxi.mk.
Naše Taxi
Qtel. +389 21 51 52, www.nasetaxi.mk.
Taxi Global
Qtel. +389 21 51 89, www.taxiglobal.mk.
42 Skopje In Your Pocket
Public transport
Skopje relies on a network of buses that until not long ago
were extremely old and equally easy to use. This is no longer
the case. The local authorities recently ‘modernised’ the city’s
public transport system to the point that it’s now almost im-
possible to use, the two biggest changes being the introduc-
tion of 200 red double-decker buses imported from China and
the necessity to own a credit card-sized piece of plastic that
seems to be the only form of payment on them. The cards can
be bought and re-charged at the airport as well as at several
other locations around Skopje including the one listed below.
Avtokomanda (Автокоманда)
QMakedonija bb. Open 06:00 - 19:30.
Cycling
Cycling in Skopje is very much a minority pursuit for reasons
that include the often belligerent driving habits of the locals
and the chronic problem the city faces with pollution. Cycle
lanes are few and far between, with the city currently providing
approximately 60km along the streets and a further 21km by
the river. A plan in 2010 to introduce official places to rent bicy-
cles around the city appears to have vanished without a trace,
although the word on the street is that this initiative is currently
trying to be bought back to life. Several hotels in Skopje offer
bicycle rental, and if you want to cycle when you’re in town, it’s
worth considering booking accommodation with this option.
skopje.inyourpocket.com

Car rental
Car rental in Macedonia is cheap and reliable. The country
is blessed with relatively good roads for the region, with
decent highways, reasonable signposting in both the
Cyrillic and Latin alphabets and slightly cheaper petrol
than in Western Europe. Macedonians drive on the right
side of the road. Seatbelts are compulsory, using mobile
phones whilst driving is prohibited and all vehicles must
use side lights or dipped headlights when driving during
the day. The blood alcohol limit is 50mg of alcohol per
100ml of blood and if you do have an accident you’re le-
gally obliged to the leave the vehicle where it is until the
police (tel. +389 1 92) have arrived and recorded the inci-
dent. All major car rental companies are represented in the
country and their websites all come with plenty of infor-
mation in English about what paperwork you need to drive
in the country. There are several toll roads in Macedonia,
which accept cash in both euros and the local currency as
well as credit cards.
ABC Rentacar
QF-2, Filip Vtori Makedonski 5, tel. +389 23 29 28 88,
www.rentacarmacedonia.mk. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Avis
QMito Hadzivasilev Jasmin bb, tel. +389 23 22 20 46,
www.avis.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Europcar
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 70 20 55 46, www.europcar.
com.mk. Open 24hrs.
Hertz
QSkupi 8, tel. +389 23 13 43 91, www.hertz.mk. Open
08:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sixt
QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 15, tel. +389 75 44 89 02, www.
sixt.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun.
Airport
Skopje’s Alexander the Great Airport is small and easy to
use. Completely modernised in 2011, the combined Ar-
rivals and Departures hall provides all the necessities for
visitors preparing to leave country including a currency
exchange (you can’t change Macedonian money abroad)
and café. Vardar Ekspres operates a bus to the airport ap-
proximately eight times a day, departing from the Holiday
Inn hotel and calling at the bus/train station the Capitol
Mall shopping centre on the way. A single fare currently
costs 175den. Taxis are best booked in advance and if you
choose the right one should cost no more that 900den or
€15 (payable in either currency). We recently flew out of
the airport on a Wizzair flight and were surprised to learn
that everyone is required to check in regardless of whether
they already have a boarding pass or not. At busy times,
this inconvenience adds about 30 minutes to the time
it takes to arrive at the airport and get through passport
control.
Getting Around
Skopje Airport
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 14 83 33, www.skp.
airports.com.mk.
Airlines
Adria Airways
QD-3, Dame Gruev 7 Local 7, tel. +389 23 11 70 09, www.
adria.si. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Austrian Airlines
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 14 83 72, www.austrian.com.
Croatia Airlines
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 22 56 18 50, www.
croatiaairlines.hr.
Swiss
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 23 11 75 44, www.swiss.
com. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Turkish Airlines
QD-2, Bul. Kliment Ohridski 23, tel. +389 22 56 20 53,
www.thy.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wizz Air
QSkopje Airport, tel. +389 59 03 02 21, www.wizzair.
com/mk.
Bus Station
Skopje’s central bus station is modern, clean and relatively
easy to use. Facilities include good quality toilets for 10den,
ATMs, shops and cafés. Eight ticket windows staffed by a
surprisingly high proportion of English-speakers sell tick-
ets for destinations inside Macedonia and abroad. Infor-
mation, currency exchange and left luggage are also taken
care of by the ticket staff. International destinations from
Skopje include Belgrade, Istanbul, Ljubljana, Peja, Pristina,
Sofia, Tirana and Zagreb.
Bus Station
QNikola Karev 20, tel. +389 22 46 63 13, www.sas.com.
mk.
Train Station
Trains in Macedonia aren’t the best way to move around the
country, with long-distance buses providing faster, more
frequent and equally cheap services. Using trains in Mac-
edonia also means you’ll have to use Skopje’s lacklustre train
station, a concrete slab with almost no facilities that looks
like nobody’s ever bothered to clean it. Some international
services operate in and out of the city, including trains to and
from Belgrade, Ljubljana, Pristina, Thessaloniki and Zagreb. If
you’re planning on visiting Bitola when you’re in Macedonia
you might want to take the train, as the journey through the
Vardar Gorge and the untouched nature beyond is a beauti-
ful one.
Train Station
Qbul. Kuzman Josifovski&Pitu bb, tel. +389 23 16 42 55,
www.mktransport.mk/stations/trainstation/skopje.
July – December 2017 43
 Directory
A short but useful guide to all the things you may need
but that you won’t ordinarily find in a typical tourist guide. Emergency numbers
QPolice Tel. +389 1 92
Dentists QFire Tel. +389 1 93
University Dental Clinical Center QAmbulance Tel. +389 1 94
QSt. Mito Hadjivasilev Jasmin bb, tel. +389 23 20 20 22,
www.eurmdentalcenter.mk. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Turkey
Foreign representations QD-3, Slavej Planina bb, tel. +389 23 10 47 10, www.skopje.
emb.mfa.gov.tr/. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Find a full list on our website. USA
QE-2, Samoilova 21, tel. +389 23 10 20 00, www.
Bulgaria mk.usembassy.gov. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
QB-4, Zlatko Shnejder 3, tel. +389 23 22 94 44, www.
mfa.bg/embassies/macedonia. Open 09:00 - 17:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. Hospitals & Clinics
Germany Acibadem Sistina Hospital
QLerinska 59, tel. +389 23 09 39 00, www.skopje.diplo. QSkupi 5a, tel. +389 23 09 95 00, www.
de. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. acibademsistina.mk.
Greece (Liaison Office) Re-Medika General Hospital
QC-3, Borka Taleski 6, tel. +389 23 21 92 60, www.mfa. Q16-ta Makedonska Brigada 18, tel. +389 22 60 31 00,
gr/missionsabroad/en/fyrom-en. www.remedika.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Netherlands
QC-3, Aminta III 69-71, tel. +389 23 12 93 09, www.
embassypages.com/missions/embassy8302/. Money transfer
Serbia MoneyGram
QPitu Guli 8, tel. +389 23 12 92 98, www.skopje.mfa. QPartizanski Odredi 62-2-14, tel. +389 23 23 64 10.
gov.rs. Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 08:00 - 19:00.

44 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com

 Directory
Macedonia unplugged
Free wireless internet access in Macedonia is becoming
increasingly common, with more and more bars, hotels
and restaurants providing fast and reliable connections
at no cost. Both 3G and 4G services are also available,
although data roaming is far from cheap. If you need
a data connection, it might be worth buying a prepaid
Macedonian SIM card with a built-in data plan. All
three Macedonian mobile providers offer this service.

Western Union
QKiril i Metodij 13, tel. +389 23 21 36 76. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Pharmacies
EuroFarm
QF-4, Mirce Acev 2, tel. +389 23 20 96 96. Open 24hrs. A
Zegin
QC-3, Aminta Treti, tel. +389 23 29 85 04, www.zegin.
com.mk. Open 24hrs. A

Mobile phones
Lyca
QE-3, Kej 13-ti Noemvri 8, tel. +389 79 12 12, www.
lycamobile.mk. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Telekom
QE-3, Kej 13-ti Noemvri 6, tel. +389 23 10 02 00, www.
telekom.mk.
Vip
QKiril i Metodij 13 - Ramstor mall, tel. +89 77 12 34,
www.vip.mk. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Post
Central Post Office
QD-3, Orce Nikolov 20, tel. +389 23 10 51 05, www.
posta.com.mk. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate
Casa Real Estate
QMitropolit Teodosij Golaganov 70b lokal13, tel. +389
71 25 92 52, www.casarealestate.com.mk. Open 09:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.

Market values
Slice of burek 50 den (€0.80)
Espresso 60 den (€1)
Decent bottle of local wine 300 den (€5)
Bottle of Skopsko beer in a pub 100 den (€1.70)
Taxi ride across town 120 den (€2)
Single local transport ticket 35 den (€0.50)
Daily local transport ticket 150 den (€2.50)

July – December 2017 45

 Directory
theatre, Music & opera health & saFety
macedonian opera and Ballet
(makedonska opera i Balet) Macedonia is safer than many West European countries
The recommended place to go for a wide range of high with violent crime, including attacks against foreign-
quality performances.Q F-3, Bul. Goce Delcev 4, tel. ers, being extremely rare. Do however exercise caution,
+398 23 11 84 51, www.mob.mk. beware of pickpockets and bag-snatchers in crowded
areas, think twice about wandering about on your own
national theatre (makedonski naroden in the middle of the night (especially if you’ve been
teatar) drinking) and be careful who you hand your credit card
Lavish performances with a repertoire from Shakespeare to when buying things with plastic. Thanks to the abun-
to local playwrights.Q E-3, 11 Mart 3, tel. +389 23 23 03 dance of mountains and fresh springs in the country, the
04, www.mnt.mk. tap water is absolutely fine to drink.

skopje drama theatre (dramski teatar

skopje) kino milenium
A busy theatre offering more experimental work than Another popular cinema serving endless helpings of Holly-
takes place at the National Theatre.QShekspirova 15, tel. wood mush, this one right in the city centre.Q F-4, Kej 13-ti
+389 76 43 43 43, www.dramskiteatar.com.mk. Noemvri, tel. +389 23 12 03 89, www.kinomilenium.mk.

cineMas
All films are shown in their original languages with Macedo-
nian subtitles. A good source of information in English can
be found on the excellent website at www.maccinema.com.
cineplexx
Several screens showing mostly Hollywood films inside
the Skopje City Mall.QLjubljanska 4 (Skopje City Mall),
tel. +389 23 07 44 77, www.cineplexx.mk.
shopping
Skopje’s shops provide just about everything visitors are
likely to need. The best places to seek out are the Old Ba-
zaar, where you can pick up anything from Turkish confec-
tionery to kettles, and the large shopping centres that tend
to cater to more modern and expensive tastes.
akademska kniga
The kind of English language bookshop most cities would kill

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modern jewelry and sophisticated accessories.

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SKOPJE BITOLA
st. Macedonia 29 Ramstore Mall City Mall st. Shirok Sokak
+389(0)76 223 322 +389(0)76 223 344 +389(0)76 288 216 +389(0)76 207 000
makedonija@bozinovski.com.mk bozinovski3@boiznovski.com.mk citymall@bozinovski.com.mk info@bozinovski.com.mk

46 Skopje In Your Pocket skopje.inyourpocket.com

 Directory
for, this large establishment in the city centre features hundreds
of shelves creaking under the weight of books of all varieties
from novels to art books to technical manuals.QD-4, Dame
Gruev 5, tel. +389 76 46 98 52, www.akademskakniga.mk.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

alkoteka
A nice little shop that imports a wide range of spirits and
that also stocks a small supply of craft beer from abroad.
QC-3, Gjuro Gjakovic, tel. +389 25 21 50 57. Open 12:00
- 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

asel
Belonging to a local, small-scale honey producer in nearby
Tetovo, this super shop in the Old Bazaar is a great place to
both support the humble honey bee and to buy an unusual
gift for your sweetheart back at home.QF-2, Evlija Celebija
bb (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 70 91 62 64. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Bit pazar
At the far northern end of the Old Bazaar is Skopje’s larg-
est and oldest marketplace. Brimming with locally pro-
duced fruit, vegetables, tobacco, herbs and plenty of Chi-
nese rubbish that falls to pieces the moment you switch
or put it on, it’s worth a visit for the atmosphere alone.
QF-1, Krste Misirkov. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Bozinovski
With shops in Skopje and Bitola, this exclusive outlet spe-
cialises in a range of high class watches, jewellery pens
and accessories from some of the world’s leading brands
including Breitling, Longines, Calvin Klein, Swatch, Troika
and Flik Flak.QE-4, Makedonija 29, tel. +389 76 28 82 13,
www.bozinovski.com.mk. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.

capitol mall
A positively gigantic shopping mall on four floors complete
with shops to keep everyone happy, this place just east of
the city centre also boasts bars, restaurants, bowling, lots of
things for children to do and it even has apartments upstairs
if you never want to leave.QJane Sandanski 71a, tel. +389
22 45 56 02, www.capitolmall.mk. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

chocol’art
A friendly place in Debar Maalo selling hand-crafted local
chocolates, pralines, truffles, cakes and other delicious treats.
A good idea for a gift if you can manage to get it home.QC-2,
Orce Nikolov 93, tel. +389 77 71 08 09, www.chocolart.mk.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.

deko
Deko is a former musician who discovered the power of gem-
stones whilst living in Italy and who subsequently returned to
his native Macedonia to set up this place, a shop front sup-
porting a small industry that turns local rubies into exquisite
pieces of jewellery. An excellent source of uniquely local gifts
and souvenirs.QD-4, Gjuro Gjakovic, tel. +389 70 34 41 46,
www.mkrubin.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

July – December 2017 47

 Directory
Delicatessen Tinex
At first glance just another supermarket, on closer inspec-
tion this recommended combined delicatessen and su-
permarket stocks an impressive amount of hard-to-find
food and drink, including Angus and Kobe beef and an
impressive amount of cheese.QD-4, Dame Gruev 14, tel.
+389 22 03 31 50, www.tinex.com.mk. Open 08:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Flower Market
Just east of the old train station, Skopje’s flower market
offers a few kiosks selling flowers and plants for all occa-
48 Skopje In Your Pocket
sions. Opening times vary from stall to stall, but you’re
guaranteed to find something open between 08:00 and
23:00 every day.QC-4, Mito Hadzivasilev Jasmin. Open
08:00 - 22:00.
Gievski
The Gievski brothers make and repair a range of tradition-
al Macedonian and conventional stringed instruments.
Their small shop in the Old Bazaar, that also sells a few
instruments, is a fascinating place to visit.QF-2, Evlija
Celebija 6 (Old Bazaar), tel. +389 70 36 56 08. Open
10:30 - 17:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
skopje.inyourpocket.com
 Directory
GTC
Designed by the acclaimed Macedonian architect Živko
Popovski (1934-2007) and supposedly resembling a boat,
this Yugoslavian-era concrete masterpiece is packed with
shops and cafés and is also a popular place for local buskers
to perform. Alongside a range of clothes shops, supermar-
kets and places selling mobile phone accessories are a cou-
ple of recommended small shops selling CDs of local music.
Because it’s open plan and there are bars and restaurants
in it, opening times don’t apply, although most shops work
from around 09:00 until 20:00.QE-4, Kej 13-ti Noemvri, tel.
+389 75 22 22 21, www.gtcskopje.com.mk.

Kultura
A small shop right in the middle of the city that stocks a few
novels in English.QE-4, Makedonija 33, www.kultura.com.
mk. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Libido
Spice up your sex life with this erotica-packed shop in De-
bar Maalo close to the City Park.QC-2, Naum Naumovski
Borce, tel. +389 75 45 59 53, www.libido.com.mk. Open
11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Ramstore Mall
Skopje’s first proper shopping centre has since been
eclipsed by several other places, but it’s still worth a visit
and is the only real mall in the city centre. The upstairs
food court is a good place to drop by a quick and decent
meal, and it’s also home to the eponymous supermar-
ket, the largest within walking distance of the main ac-
tion.QKiril i Metodij 13, tel. +389 23 17 80 30, www.
ramstoremall.com.mk. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Rigara
One of several shops in the Old Bazaar selling traditional
confectionery, this little place near the Stone Bridge fo-
cuses on classic Turkish sweets and is hugely popular for
reasons that are only too obvious to anyone who ever ate
anything here.QE-2, Teodosij Golaganov 42/6 (Old Ba-
zaar), tel. +389 23 22 28 53. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Vitalia Muesli Bar

A producer of quality health foods including muesli bars,
natural soups, non-diary milk, non-allergy foods and organic
produce that’s almost impossible to find in Skopje, as well as
this shop in GTC they also have one at Partizanski Odredi 64
and their recommended products can also be found in other
outlets.QE-4, Kej 13ti Noemvri K2/4 (GTC), www.vitalia.
com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Skopje City Mall

Skopje’s newest and most popular shopping centre fea-
tures three floors of around 150 excellent shops including
lots of major international brands selling clothing, things
for the home and a considerable more. There’s also a great
food court, plus the added bonus of a large multiplex cin-
ema inside the same building.QLjubljanska 4, tel. +389 23
21 70 12, www.skopjecitymall.mk. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

July – December 2017 49

 Where To Stay
Skopje’s hotel sector is growing and improving all the time,
with an increasingly diverse range of places to stay at rea-
sonable prices and with generally high levels of service.
The days of useful and reliable rack rates and hotels hold-
ing a monopoly on what it costs to sleep in their beds are
a distant memory. As such, we don’t include room prices
with our reviews.
Cream of the crop
Aleksandar Palace
A massive five-star option some 10 minutes drive west
of the city centre, this impressive business hotel comes
with an great collection of rooms and suites plus a
positively mind-boggling array of extras including a
large conference and banquet centre, spa, sports fa-
cilities and a top-notch restaurant and bar. The hotel
of choice for many of the city’s more illustrious visi-
tors, breakfast at the Aleksandar Palace offers a good
opportunity to network with the great and the good
who choose to stay here.QBul. 8-mi Septemvri 15, tel.
+389 23 09 23 92, www.aleksandarpalace.com.mk.
P­H AKD­C ­W
Park Hotel & Spa
Wedged in-between the Philip II Arena and the river
and one of the newest additions to the capital’s luxury
hotel market, the rooms here are large and bright and
come with little extras including kettles and branded
50 Skopje In Your Pocket
toiletries in the bathroom. Quirky extras include chang-
ing carpets in the lifts that remind visitors what time
of day it is and bathrobes for all guests, plus there
a spectacular restaurant, spa and several good ca-
fés with outside seating along the edge of the river.
QD-1, 1732 4, tel. +389 25 51 51 51, www.parkhotel.
mk. P­J AUFLKDXC­W
Skopje Marriott
All the good things you expect from the exclusive Mar-
riott experience in an unbeatable location make this
one a definite contender for Skopje’s best hotel. The
rooms and suites are magical, and there’s a wonder-
ful in-house spa to wash away the business blues at
the end of a busy day. Also boasting one of the finest
restaurants in Macedonia, the Marriott, which comes
with some beautiful views of the city, is an extremely
welcome addition to the city indeed.QD-3, Plostad
Makedonija 7, tel. +389 25 10 25 10, www.marriott.
com. P­J ­H ­A ­F ­L ­K ­D ­C ­­W
Stone Bridge
Occupying a piece of prime real estate on the Old
Bazaar side of the 15th-century bridge that gives the
hotel its name, it’s pretty much impossible to fault
this gem. Featuring an impressive collection of rooms,
apartments and the devilishly sumptuous Sultan
Presidential Suite, extras here include top of the range
conference facilities, swimming pool, Jacuzzi and
skopje.inyourpocket.com

magnificent dining facilities both at the very top of the
building and at ground level complete with a lovely
summer flower terrace.QE-3, Kej Dimitar Vlahov 1,
tel. +389 23 24 49 00, www.stonebridge-hotel.com.
P­J ­A ­L ­K ­C ­­W
TCC Grand Plaza
On the edge of lovely Debar Maalo and close to many
of the best embassies yet still less that three kilome-
tres from the city centre, this long established business
favourite packs in a lot of choices for potential guests.
With possibly the widest selection of rooms available
in the city, choosing here is easy plus there are all man-
ner of extra incentives for parking your head on one of
their pillows including a fitness centre, spa, meeting
rooms, restaurant and the amazing Stojmenoff wine cel-
lar.QBul. 8 mi Septemvri 2/2, tel. +389 23 08 08 50,
www.tccgrandplaza.com. P­A ­F ­L ­K ­D ­C ­W
Upmarket
City Park
Simple but thoughtful interiors throughout and some
great views of the park across the street are just two
reasons to book a room in this brilliantly located fa-
vourite. Right on the edge of Debar Maalo, expect an
array of room facilities including free wireless internet
and complementary mineral water in the minibars, the
slightly Scandinavian feel to this place somehow gives it
Where To Stay
a cool atmosphere during the summer. Walking to the
centre takes less than 15 minutes.QC-2, Mihail Cakov
8a, tel. +389 23 29 08 60, www.hotelcitypark.com.
mk. P­H ­A L­K ­W
Ibis Skopje City Center
The classic Ibis touch is liberally sprinkled throughout
this superbly located hotel just 200m from Macedo-
nia Square in the very heart of the city centre. The
rooms are everything you’d expect them to be, plus
there are many interesting details and extras to temp
guests including lots of original art on the walls, bi-
cycle rental and an irresistible temptation in the guise
of a bar that’s open round the clock.QD-3, Orce Niko-
lov 55, tel. +389 23 12 37 00, www.ibis.com/Skopje.
P­­A­U ­L ­W
Senigallia
Built as part of the Skopje 2014 project, this unique
hotel that looks like a ship really does feel like the real
thing once you’re on board. The rooms (or cabins) are
extremely well appointed coming with all the luxuries
one would expect for a long voyage, with some also
offering beautiful night-time views across the river
through the portholes. There’s also a great restaurant
and bar on board as well as a place to relax on the deck
when the seas aren’t stormy.QF-4, Kej 13ti Noemvri
5s, tel. +389 23 22 40 44, www.senigallia.mk. P­J­
A­W
July – December 2017 51
 Where To Stay
Solun Hotel & Spa
Tucked away in a quiet courtyard less than a minute away
from Macedonian Square and featuring a gleaming Ducati
motorcycle in the reception area, the Solun is a great choice
for visitors seeking something a little different whilst demand-
ing the best a hotel can offer at the same time. A brilliant
option for tourists who like to take to their beds during the
afternoon thanks to its closeness to so many sights, of the
many good things to say about this place we like it best for the
breakfast, which is one of the best we’ve ever had the pleasure
of eating.QD-4, Nikola Vapcarov 10, tel. +389 23 23 25 12,
www.hotelsolun.com.mk. P­­J­H­A­L­KD ­ ­CW ­­
Tomče Sofka
A welcome relief from the seemingly never-ending roll
call of identikit hotels in the city, the good people at
Tomče Sofka put personal preference before predict-
ability when designing the rooms, sometimes with the
most interesting and eccentric outcomes. On the edge
of City Park in a relatively quiet location, this is one of the
friendliest places we’ve come across and it also has the
advantage of a great in-house Macedonian restaurant.Q
C-1, Jordan Hadzikonstantinov-Dzinot 14, tel. +389 23
11 72 50, www.tomcesofka.mk. P­J ­A ­B ­W
Mid-range
Concept Hotel Central
Featuring orthopaedic mattresses throughout for a better
sleep than many others in a similar price range, this lovely
place to stay just southwest of the city centre comes with
good value rooms featuring all mod cons including minibars
and free wireless internet plus a cavalcade of extras such as
bicycle rental, airport pick-up and the option of guided tours
for those lacking the energy to do it themselves. The Scandi-
navian space age theme is fun too.QB-4, Vasil Gjorgov 31,
tel. +389 23 20 40 50, www.chc.mk. P­A­L­K­W
Mramor
Found in the quiet western suburbs close to where the
Vardar drifts south out of the city and meaning Marble in
Macedonian, the Mramor is another small and immensely
popular hotel run by a dedicated family representing the
very best of Balkan hospitality. The first hotel in the city
with free wireless internet continues to set the pace with
thoughtful extras including things to keep young guests
occupied. Well away from the smog and dirt of the city, if
you don’t mind trundling in and out of the city, this is one
of the best choices in its class.QKlanoec 11, tel. +389 70
22 66 63, www.hotelmramor.com. P­­H­A­W
Villa Vodno
The family-run Villa Vodno can be found hugging the bot-
tom of the city’s most popular mountain in a quiet and ex-
clusive suburb. Small, intimate and hugely popular with re-
turning guests, you have to mind your head in the upstairs
rooms, although once you’re used to this minor distraction
you’ll find nothing to worry you at all. Featuring all the com-
52 Skopje In Your Pocket
fort associated with four-star hotel accommodation, the
restaurant, which spreads out into the lovely secluded gar-
den during the summer, serves a great range of Balkan spe-
cialities.QPerisa Sevelikj 8, tel. +389 23 17 77 11, www.
villavodno.com.mk. P­A6FLGK­W
Budget
City Boutique
Quirky, friendly and not like the vast majority of somewhat
impersonal hotels in its category, City Boutique is another
child-friendly option recommended for families visiting
Skopje on a budget. Close to the bottom of Mount Vodno
in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this place is basically
a large house, with each room coming with a balcony, en
suite bathroom and the now almost compulsory free
wireless internet.QDzumajska 21b, tel. +389 26 09 00
40, www.cbh.mk. P­­A­K­W
Hostels
It wasn’t that long ago that staying in a hostel in Skopje
meant rubbing shoulders in a grotty kitchen with the kind
of people you’d think twice about saving in a fire. Thank-
fully things are improving, with more and more backpack-
er-style places opening all the time and major inconven-
iences such as curfews being a thing of the past.
City Hostel
A popular family-run hostel not too far from either the city
centre of the bus and train stations, sleeping options here
include everything from a double room to mixed dormi-
tories for up to 10 people. There’s a garden with barbecue
facilities, shared kitchen and bathroom facilities, bicycle
rental and the now well familiar international backpack-
ing atmosphere. Note than City Hostel books up quickly,
so planning in advance is highly recommended.QTome
Arsovski 6, tel. +389 70 22 61 65. P­W
Apartments
Casa City Apartments
A highly recommended company whose friendly and
helpful staff can help with everything from renting a
great apartment in the centre for one night to long-term
arrangements to selling property. Their range of apart-
ments in the city centre are all of the highest quality and
offer an excellent and affordable alternative to staying in a
hotel.QMitropolit Teodosij Golaganov 70b lokal 13, tel.
+389 71 25 92 52, www.casacityapartments.com.mk.
Skopje Lux Apartments
A great choice of luxury apartments for short-term rent,
most of them in the same location immediately west of
the city centre and all coming with the necessary facili-
ties for an idea self-catering stay when visiting the city.
Note that they don’t have an address and need to be
contacted by telephone.Qtel. +389 77 99 79 91, www.
skopjeluxapartments.com.
skopje.inyourpocket.com
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