PATUTA BY RHEA MODI

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 For,
strong,
brave,
exceptional,
beautiful,
inspiring,
lovely
women.

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a smi 3
 thesis statement thesis abstract

6 7

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N
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I inspiration / process collection details
D boards
E
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bibliography

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introduction survey

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photoshoot conclusion I
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credits

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 THESIS STATEMENT

To create an assertive, yet soft style statement with

maternity fashion for the modern Indian woman.
My thesis aims to articulate the aesthetic wants of
a modern Indian, expecting mother with a clear
understanding of her social and cultural context.
This is about creating garments for the women who
have transcended suffocating social conventions and
carved their own niche in society today.

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 THESIS ABSTRACT

My thesis revolves around the design of maternity

fashion, keeping in mind that there is a dearth of
fashionable functional styles for to-be mothers, during
and post their pregnancy. It is about presenting to
them a range of easy, effortless fashion that resonates
with their changing self-image.
With breast-feeding fastenings, adjustable sizing
for the body of the mother, the aim is to give her
a garment that has aesthetic appeal along with
addressing functional needs. The modern Indian
woman wishes for something that is elegant and
comfortable. She also wants something that’s long-
lasting. I see the lack of maternity fashion as a social
problem. It reflects the attitudes society has for
women and how it takes control over her choices
and the ways in which she should present herself.
Society now needs to grow and respect women in
this stage of motherhood and start recognising her
need for aesthetic style- one that reflects her changing
attitudes, expectations and desires.

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 Women have dealt with problems throughout the
I decades and these problems have affected their
fashion choices consciously and unconsciously.
N With suppressed voices and forced to confine into
T home-bound roles, women in our country were the
R unappreciated slaves of society who through small
incremental revolutions have gradually grown out
O of restrictive norms and rules and made their own
D identity.
Every woman has her own story to tell, some say it
U out loud and some keep it within themselves and
C often their stories die with them. Women need to be
T heard; they need to be understood. The fashion world
understands women and respects them for who they
I are. It’s with my confidence in that knowledge that
O I wish to create pieces for a woman who has grown
to have her own identity and independence from the
N conservative society that we live in today.
Using subtle changes to create strong powerful
designs, my collection is conceptualised as an ode
to expecting mothers and provides them the means
to articulate herself through a range of emancipating
fashion choices.

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It is the idea of a modern day woman in India who
follows her dreams and follows the fashion norms that
she makes for herself and not what her family makes
for her. The modern Indian woman is a woman with
dreams and one who aims to go higher and break
free from the restrictive and sometimes, insensitive
norms of society. A survey conducted for this project
revealed that the modern Indian woman lives for I
herself and pampers herself. She loves to get out and
have some fun with her friends and at the same time N
fulfils her responsibilities at home. She works hard T
and earns for a comfortable living, and believes that
marriage is optional and sex is not a sacred act, but
R
is meant to fulfil physical and emotional needs. This O
goes to show that she is in touch with herself. She is a D
headstrong woman but at the same time wants to have
babies and nourish them with her love and nurture U
them into good human beings. She looks forward C
to experiencing the most beautiful aspect of her life
-pregnancy, a stage in a woman life that makes her
T
look the most beautiful. I
O
India must keep pace with its changing women.
They no longer fit the stereotype of the suppressed, N
perennially suffering-in-silence and subservient
‘half’. They see themselves as whole, complete and
deserving of respectful attention. Modern Indian
women have found their niche in the society and today
have their say in families and lead their own lives as
they like. They have the power to choose what they like
to wear and do. They are in charge of their lives.
 
Women of today not only rock the cradles, they also
rock the world.
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 1) which age group do you fall in?
A) 20-25
B) 30-40
C) 55-65

2) what is your marital status?

A) single
B) married
C) divorced

3) what is your occupation?

A) business woman
B) housewife
C) other
S
U 4) what is your attitude towards your home?
A) do you do all the household chores
R B) you have helper to do it
V C) house members share responsibilities equally
E
5) do you believe in any of these?
Y A) abortion should be legal
B) say no to baby girl
C) no to breastfeeding in public

6) what do you think of sex?

A) pure pleasure
B) for procreating only
C) a sacred act

7) for a weekly outing you would prefer

A) family
B) friends
10 C) alternate with them
8) what do you think about motherhood?
A) just another phase of a woman’s life
B) a life changing experience
C) a crucial part of a woman’s existence

9) if you were pregnant…

A) you would want to wear specially designed clothes for
maternity
B) just buy a size or two bigger from your general size
C) depending on the price you would choose either or

10) what would your best garment in your wardrobe be?

A) a vintage piece of clothing
B) a luxury garment
C) a garment with a family legacy S
U
11) which do you like the best?
A) the hands, that rock the cradles; rule the world R
B) educate a man and you educate an individual, V
educate a woman and you educate an entire family E
C) keep her in her place Y
12) do you face discrimination in your family or workplace?
A) yes
B) no
C) depends

13) is being a women in India a curse? (keeping in mind the

strict norms of every culture)
A) yes
B) no
C) maybe

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 50 woman from different age groups from 20-25,
30-40, 55-65 were made to fill the survey through
an online portal and then the results were studied in
detail. All women from different areas of occupation
and marital status were sent the link to the portal.
Out of 50, 25 woman said they had helpers to
the household chores, 20 of them divided the
responsibilities with the other family members and 5
S did all the household chores; when asked who would
they prefer weekly outings with- 35 of them preferred
U alternating with the family and friends, 9 preferred
R family and 6 preferred friends. Discrimination has
decreased in the families todays only a few of them
V said they faced discrimination. Majority of the women
E believe that every woman has the sovereign right
Y over her body; and sex is thought of as a physical
and emotional need , and some believe it is for pure
pleasure. when it comes to expressing views on
sexuality there was a mixed view about expressing
it uninhibitedly and if it should be expressed within a
marriage or a secure and a stable relationship. Every
independent woman today wears clothing selected on
the basis of what she likes to wear and the lifestyle she
leads.

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Talking about motherhood 35 women believed it is
a life changing experience, 10 of them believed its
just another phase of a woman’s life and 5 of them
believed it is a crucial part of her life. When asked
about maternity wear 23 woman chose to wear a
clothing depending on the price wether designed
specially for them or if they had pick 2 sizes
bigger from a normal store, 20 preferred specially
designed clothes for themselves, and 7 people S
preferred buying 2 sizes bigger of the everyday wear
that they buy. When asked about the best garment in U
a woman wardrobe everyone agreed to clothes that R
were comfortable and versatile.
India has changed from the earlier centuries where
V
women were only meant to be home caretakers, give E
birth to kids and nurture them and do all the household Y
work and were never respected for the work they did.
Gradually woman found their niche in the society and
today have their say in families and lead their own lives
as they like. They have the power to choose what they
like to wear and do. they get walk head strong with the
men.
Women of today rock the cradles and the world.

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 MOOD BOARD

The mood board represents the basic mood of my

thesis, the stages of maternity and how details and
acessories have been kept in mind throughout the
collection. The mood and experience of the expect-
ing mother is given first priority and hence the colors
and designs have been further chosen accordingly.

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 SILHOUETTE BOARD

The silhouettes have been inspired from various collection

across the past years, the silhouettes are more towards
showing the fullness and flow of the material and compli-
menting the body of the expecting. Gathers, pleats and
a line cuts have been encouraged for the garment to fall
loosely on the body as to not support the feeling of suffo-
cation.

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 PRINT BOARD

i chose to work with Indian chintz as they stay true to

the roots of India. All the paintings and embroideries
on the garments have been inspired by Indian chintz.
The reason to choose floral print was because floral
prints keep a mothers mood happy and light, helps
with the mood swings and also for the beautiful con-
nection reproduction and being born from the mother
Earth. We are all a part of the soil.

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 COLOUR PALETTE

PEACH AMBER 15-1423 TPG

CHERRY MAHAGONY 19 - 1435 TCX

The colors were inspired by nature and chosen keeping

in mind the chnaging moods of the expecting mother.
MILKY WHITE P 1-2 U

VALIANT POPPY 18 - 1549 TCX

LIMEADE 13 - 0645 TCX

FENUGREEK 15 - 1425 TCX

TREETOP 18 - 0135 TCX

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 DETAIL BOARD - CLOSURE

I also did a study on the different breasfeeding closures

for the collection, as breastfeeding had to be one of the
important feautres of the garments I designed.

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 DETAIL BOARD - SIZE

Inspiration for different closures for garments that

would be helpful in the size changing feature that i
have used in some of my garments.

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S
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hand painted motifs

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 S
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hand embroidered motifs

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F
A
a towel fabric handloom fabric
B handloom fabric

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S

handloom fabric handloom fabric a towel fabric

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 F
A
handloom fabric checks towel - chosen handloom fabric B
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S

handloom fabric handloom fabric mal fabric - chosen 23

S
K
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T Sketches for sleeve options, different lenghts, flares
and styles. The loose fit and fulness was kept in
E mind.
C
H
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S

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 S
K
differnt necklines, closures for brestfeeding, the E
necks were kept open for avoiding the feeling of T
suffocation. E
C
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 TOILES

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ACCESSORIES

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 LABEL

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TAG
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 o
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front
C
side
centre front back A
panel
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side circular panel
S
pleat panel

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PANTONE 15-1423 TPG
 PROCESS

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 1 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: PINK AND PEARL SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: PLEATED YOKE WITH SIDE SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

BOX PLEATE

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

FABRIC 4.5 mtrs 60 270

LINING 4 mtrs 35 140
TRIMS 80+60 140
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 4.5 mtrs 35 157.5
PATTERN DRAFTING 2 hrs. 50 100
FABRIC MARKING 1 hr. 25 50
CUTTING 1 hr. 25 50
SEWING 4 hr. 50 200

FINISHING 6mtr 25 150

EMBROIDERY 2 hr 50 100
PAINTING 6 mtr 317 1900
LAUNDARY 1 psc 250

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN) 5mtr 35 175
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING 3 100 300
TOILE MAKING 5 hrs 40 200 4,362

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 436.2 4,798.2

PROFIT (50%) 2,399.1 7,197.3

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FINAL PRICE
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 centre centre
back back side
front side
front
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sleeve I
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onfold front
and back
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PANTONE 13-0645 TPG
 PROCESS

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK:2 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: SCALLOP DRESS SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: PAINTED YOKE SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

COUNT AMOUNT
DIRECT MATERIALS: PRICE

FABRIC 3 mtr 60 180

LINING 3 mtr 35 105
TRIMS 6 2 12
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 5 mtr 35 175
PATTERN DRAFTING 1.5 hrs7 50 5
FABRIC MARKING 1.5 hrs2 5 38
CUTTING 2 hrs2 55 0

SEWING 4 hrs 50 200

FINISHING 6 hrs 25 + 50 200
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING 4 hrs 100 400

LAUNDRY 1 psc 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN) 1 mtr 35 35
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING 2 psc 100 200
TOILE MAKING 2 hrs5 0 100 2,100

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 210 2,310

PROFIT (50%) 1,155 3,465 39

FINAL PRICE
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 sleeve

back - onfold front - onfold

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PANTONE 13-0645 TPG

back - onfo nfold
ld front - o

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PANTONE 15-1425 TCX
 PROCESS

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 3.1 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: COFFEE SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: CHECKED JACKET WITH SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

GATHERED SLEEVE.

COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

DIRECT MATERIALS:
FABRIC 4mtr 150 600
LINING
TRIMS 12 7 84
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 4 mtr 35 140
PATTERN DRAFTING 1.5 hrs5 07 5

FABRIC MARKING 1hr 25 25

CUTTING 2 hrs2 5 50

SEWING 4 hrs 50 200

FINISHING 4 hrs 25 100

EMBROIDERY 2 pcs 200 400

PAINTING
LAUNDRY 1 psc 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING
TOILE MAKING 2,004

204 2,208
GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%)
PROFIT (50%) 1,104 3,312 45

FINAL PRICE
T front - onfold back - onfold
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front - onfold back - onfold

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 3.2 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: OLIVE GREEN SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: HAND PAINTED HEM SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

FABRIC 2 mtr 60 120

LINING 2 mtr 35 70
TRIMS 2+6 15+5 60
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 4 mtr 35 140
PATTERN DRAFTING 1 hr 50 50
FABRIC MARKING 1 hr 25 25
CUTTING 1 hr 25 25

SEWING 3 hr 50 150

FINISHING 1.5 hrs 25 40

EMBROIDERY 2.5 hrs 50 125
PAINTING 4 hrs 100 400
LAUNDRY 1 pcs 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING 3 pcs 125 375
TOILE MAKING 1,910

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 191 2,101

PROFIT (50%) 1.050.5 3,151.5 47

FINAL PRICE
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 sleeve

panel for gathers T

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back - onfold front - onfold

PANTONE 13-0645 TPG panel for gathers panel for gathers

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PANTONE P 1-2 U
 PROCESS

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 4.1 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: PEARL SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: GATHERED HEM JACKET SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

FABRIC 9 mtr 35 315

LINING
TRIMS
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING
PATTERN DRAFTING 1.5 hrs 50 75
FABRIC MARKING 2 hrs 25 50
CUTTING 2.5 hrs 25 75
SEWING 6 hrs 50 300
FINISHING 10 mtr 25 250
EMBROIDERY 3 pcs 1167 3500
PAINTING
LAUNDRY 1 pcs 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY 3 pcs 200 600
PAINTING
TOILE MAKING 5,495

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 549.56 ,044.5

PROFIT (50%) 3,022.25 9,066 53

FINAL PRICE
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ld

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 4.2 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: OLIVE GREEN SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: SIDE DROP FALL SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

FABRIC 4 mtr6 0 240

LINING 4 mtr 35 140
TRIMS 1 pcs 15 15
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 8 mtr 35 280
PATTERN DRAFTING 1.5 hrs5 0 75
FABRIC MARKING 2 hrs 25 50
CUTTING 2 hrs 25 50
SEWING 2.5 hrs5 0 125
FINISHING 5 mtr 25 125
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING
LAUNDRY 1 pcs 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING
TOILE MAKING 1,430

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 143 1,573

PROFIT (50%) 786.5 2,360 55

FINAL PRICE
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 sleeve

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panel for pleats C
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back - onfold front - onfold
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PANTONE 15-1423 TPG panel for pleats panel for pleats

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PANTONE 15-1425 TCX
 PROCESS

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 5.1 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: COFFEE SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: CHECKED EMBROIDERED SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

JACKET

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUNT PRICE AMOUNT

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FABRIC 7.5 mtr 750
LINING
TRIMS
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 7.5 mtr 35 263
PATTERN DRAFTING 2 hrs 50 100
FABRIC MARKING 2.5 hrs 25 75
CUTTING 2.5 25 75

SEWING 4.5 hrs 50 225

FINISHING 3 hrs 50 150
EMBROIDERY 4 pcs 875 3500
PAINTING
LAUNDRY 1 pcs 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY 3 pcs 150 450
PAINTING
TOILE MAKING 5,918

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 591.8 6,509.8

PROFIT (50%) 3,254.9 9764.7 61

FINAL PRICE
 l
nt pane
side fro

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back onfold
back o
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side back panel

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COST SHEET PATUTA

LOOK: 5.2 COLLECTION NAME: ASMI

COLOR: PINK SEASON: SS/18

DESCRIPTION: SIDE KALI DRESS SIZE RANGE: US 10-12

DIRECT MATERIALS: COUN T PRICE AMOUNT

FABRIC 4 mtr6 0 240

LINING 4 mtr 35 140
TRIMS 1 pcs 15 15
LABEL 1 pcs 10 10
HANGTAGS 2 tags 5 10
HANGERS 1 50 50
HANGER BAGS 1 50 50
PACKAGING 1 60 60

DIRECT LABOUR:
DYEING 8 mtr 35 280
PATTERN DRAFTING 2 hr 50 100
FABRIC MARKING 2 hr 25 50
CUTTING 2.5 hr 25 65
SEWING 3 hrs 50 150

FINISHING 10 mtr 25 250

EMBROIDERY 2 hrs 50 100
PAINTING
LAUNDRY 1 pcs 150 150

SAMPLING:
FABRIC(MUSLIN)
EMBROIDERY
PAINTING
TOILE MAKING 1,720

GENERAL OVERHEADS (10%) 172 1,892

PROFIT (50%) 946 2,838 63

FINAL PRICE
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 CONCLUSION
My thesis is about maternity fashion for the modern
indian woman. A woman who is confident and free to
take her decisions. I had planned to design garments
keeping in mind the problems of maternity fashion
in India. And i believe i have achieved what i had
planned. The styles are simple, comfortable, soft and
are designed to especially keep an expecting mother
at ease. There are closures in every garment for easier
breast feeding and some garments can be tightened
to fit to the body better after pregnancy and some are
loose-fitted garments with jackets to give it that summer
look.
The choice of cotton works very well with my collection.
This collection speaks volumes about my philosophy of
fashion. Aesthetic, wearable and affordable style. As
a designer, I have come to realise that I work with my
ear on the ground, rather than having my head in the
clouds. I draw from the influences of my society and
culture. And my garments will always be about that-
organic and earthy.
My process started with a conversation with a pregnant
relative and how she was just not happy with the
available maternity fashion. I then did a survey and
interviewed a few to-be mothers and young mothers to
understand the kind of silhouettes, preferred colours,
prints and patterns that could inform my design
developments. After working on it i believe i could have
done better with the breast feeding closures.

I see myself designing for the comfort of women- the

modern INDIAN woman. My inspiration will be the
women always and i will also make sure of appreciating
the artisans i will work with. The organic and earthy
feel will never go. I will work with more artisans all over
76 india.
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

(n.d.). Retrieved from http://epaperbeta.timesofindia.com/Article.aspx?eid=31805&articlexml=FOR-THESE-STYL-

ISH-CELEBS-THERE-WAS-NO-PREGNANT-16022017105028

@Arizton Advisory & Intelligence. (n.d.). Maternity Apparel Market - Global Outlook and Forecast 2017-2023. Retrieved from https://
www.arizton.com/market-reports/maternity-apparel-market

Expecting opportunity: The growing maternity market. (2017, November 23). Retrieved from https://edited.com/blog/2017/11/mater-
nity-retail/

Ilyashov, A. (2017, December 22). 11 Fashion Editors Share Their Most Useful Maternity Style Tips. Retrieved from https://www.
glamour.com/gallery/maternity-fashion

Maternity Apparel Market - Global Outlook and Forecast 2017-2023 - Market is Expected to Reach $7 Billion - ResearchAndMarkets.
com. (2018, January 18). Retrieved from https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20180118005698/en/Maternity-Apparel-Mar-
ket---Global-Outlook-Forecast

Maternity wear for work, working women in India. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.womensweb.in/articles/maternity-wear-for-work-
ing-women-india/

Milligan, L. (2017, March 31). Maternity Style: Vogue’s Dos And Don’ts. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/celebrity-ma-
ternity-style-pregnant-fashion-inspiration

Moulard, E. (n.d.). Millennial Moms Give Indian Maternity Wear Segment A New High. Retrieved from http://businessworld.in/article/
Millennial-Moms-Give-Indian-Maternity-Wear-Segment-A-New-High-/29-01-2018-138514/

R. (2016, February 11). Global Maternity Wear Market 2015-2019. Retrieved from https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/glob-
al-maternity-wear-market-2015-2019-300219203.html

Sawant, P. (2016, July 15). Maternity fashion tips for moms-to-be - Times of India. Retrieved from https://timesofindia.indiatimes.
com/life-style/fashion/style-guide/Maternity-fashion-tips-for-moms-to-be/articleshow/53225058.cms#

W. (n.d.). Trendy Maternity Clothes – Market for Maternity Clothes. Retrieved from http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-arti-
cle/7237/ever-evolving-maternity-wear
77
 Credits :

Mentorship :
Solange Suri, Anwar Khan

Contruction Assitance / Guidance :

Anwar Khan, Sandeep

Photography :
Yayati Hazare

Model :
Purvisha Nadkarni

Makeup :
Purvisha Nadkarni

Hair :
Purvisha Nadkarni

Location :
Sanjay Gandhi National Park

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