Pilgrimage To Sabrimalai “ Ayyapan “ Temple

1. History of Sabrimalai

Sabarimala is a Hindu pilgrimage centre located in the Western Ghat mountain ranges of

Pathanamthitta District in Kerala. Sabarimala is believed to be the place where ‘Ayyappan’

meditated after killing the powerful demoness, ‘Mahishi’. Lord Ayyappan's temple is situated

here amidst of 18 hills. The temple is situated on a hilltop at an altitude of 914m above mean sea

level, and is surrounded by mountains and dense forests.1

Sabarimala is the largest annual pilgrimage in the world with an estimated 45 - 50 million

devotees coming every year. Females between the age group of 10 - 50 are not allowed to enter

the temple, since the story attributed to Lord Ayyappa prohibits the entry of the women in the

menstrual age group. This is because Ayyappan is a Bramachari(Celibate). The temple is open

for worship only during the days of Mandalapooja (Approximately November 15 to December

26), Makaravilakku (January 14- "Makara Sankranti") and Vishu (April 14), and the first five

days of each Malayalam month.2

1
,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabarimala
2
,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabarimala
History of

For every Ayyappa devotee sports a black or blue garment, grows a beard and keeps his hair unkempt
and submerges his individual identity in the stream of devotion to Ayyappa. Whenever two of them
meet, they gleefully exchange the chant “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa (Lord Ayyappa is refuge)
although the two might not have had even a nodding acquaintance. In recent years, an increasing
number of Muslims and Christians have been joining the pilgrim caravan to Sabarimala. What is more,
devotees from countries such as Australia, USA, UK, Belgium, Portugal and Israel make a regular trek
to the abode of Ayyappa, year after year. The most recent phenomenon is that of many Hindi
speaking software professionals working in South India taking a vow of pilgrimage to Sabarimala.

The cult’s booming growth is reflected in the phenomenal increase in the number of pilgrims who
make a trek to the hill shrine. By 1970, fewer than two million had visited Sabarimala. But at the close
of pilgrim season in January 2008, more than 50-million had visited this holy spot. However, unlike
other Hindu shrines, the Ayyappa temple is kept open for a few days close to the end and beginning of
each Malayalam month. Fairly large numbers of pilgrims also visit the shrine on the occasion of Vishu,
the Malayalam New Year day and Onam, Kerala’s harvest festival. The peak pilgrim season coincides
with “Mandala Pooja” falling between mid-November and December-end and “Makara Vilakku” in
January.

Specifically, pilgrimage to Sabarimala is not for those with weak hearts. For the pilgrims following the
traditional route covering a distance of around 50-kms, need to move bare-foot through thick forests
and across high mountains. However, an increasing number of pilgrims are now resorting to “short
cuts” by directly reaching the banks of Pampa from where a 5-m long trek across the Neelimalai
mountain takes them to the sanctuary of Ayyappa also known as Dharma Sastha (Lord of Verities). It
is also customary for pilgrims to visit the other major temples in Kerala.

A pilgrimage to Sabarimala is unique in more ways than one. Devotees have to observe a stringent
code of puritanical practices for 41 days preceding the pilgrimage. Abstinence from liquor, celibacy, a
strict vegetarian diet and going around bare foot are some of the vows undertaken. Devotees must
bathe both in the morning and evening and keep away from social activities by spending time in
spiritual exercise. At the beginning of the pilgrim season in mid-November, the devotes wear a
garland of Rudraksha beads in a temple ceremony conducted by a senior pilgrim called “Guruswamy”.

The sanctity of Sabarimala is enhanced by the fact that besides being the seat of Lord Ayyappa, it is
believed to be the scene of various incidents narrated in the Ramayana. According to locals, it was at
this sacred mount that Lord Rama granted darshan (audience) to Sabari who was performing a unique
penance here. According to another legend, Ayyappa is the offspring of the union between Shiva and
Vishnu in the form of Mohini or divine enchantress. As such he is called Hari Hara Putra.

After 41 days of strict observance of austerities, the pilgrim readies himself for the epic trek to
Sabarimala by performing “Irumudi” ceremony—a ritual-filled, time-consuming affair held in the local
shrine. Irumudi is essentially a two-in-one travel kit which the pilgrim has to carry on his head while
walking barefoot to Sabarimala. While the front portion of Irumudi contains holy articles to be offered
to Lord Ayyappa, the hind portion is meant to hold the personal needs of the pilgrims like clothes,
blankets etc. The main offerings to Lord Ayyappa — ghee filled coconuts, rice, betel leaves, camphor
and plantains — go into the front portion of Irumudi. Once the Irumudi kit is ready, the pilgrim leaves
the local shrine by breaking a coconut on the doorstep.

Normally, pilgrims go to Sabarimala in groups headed by a senior pilgrim who acts as guide and
spiritual mentor through the pilgrimage. Hundreds of thousands of black and blue robed pilgrims
tumultuously shouting “Swamiaye Saranam Ayyappa” pour into the sleepy little town of Erumeli, the
traditional gateway to the trek to Sabarimala. As a prelude to the tough trek, the pilgrims assume the
role of a hunter by smearing their bodies with colors and tying belts of foliage round their waists. Then
they begin to dance ecstatically around the streets of Erumeli. This dance is said to be in
commemoration of an event involving Lord Ayyappa’s return to Erumeli as a hunter. The colorful
street dance called Petta Thullal concludes at the mosque of Vavara, who according to legend, was a
Muslim pirate-turned-devotee of Lord Ayyappa.

From here the long march begins with the sea of pilgrims surging up the hills, climbing huge boulders
and spilling through the forest stretches harboring wild animals to the banks of the Azhutha river
where Ayyappa is said to have performed his cosmic dance.

After a night’s rest, the pilgrims start descending the heights of Azhutha Mountain which is damp and
slippery. After a day’s back-breaking trek, the pilgrims reach the base of Karimala hill. A steep climb
takes them to the peak of the hill. A sweet water spring here makes it ideal for a day’s rest. Then
begins the descent of Karimala leading to the much awaited banks of Pampa in whose waters pilgrims
have a dip.

Then bidding a farewell to Pampa, devotees climb the Neelimalai Mountains to reach the temple of
Ayyappa. Before climbing the sacred eighteen steps leading to the sanctuary of Ayyappa, pilgrims
break coconuts corresponding to the number of times they have gone on a pilgrimage to Sabarimala.
Tumultuous cries of “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa” coming from millions of throats electrify the
atmosphere at the shrine. The sacred eighteen steps of the shrine are held in deep veneration as they
symbolize various senses and desires in man and with the climbing of the eighteen steps, the pilgrims
symbolically surmount the turbulence of his senses.

On the day of Makara Vilakku — coinciding with Makara Sankranti falling in mid January — as dusk
sets in, devotees behold a rare phenomenon. While the priest lights up the lamp before the presiding
deity, a luminous streak of resplendent light makes its appearance for a while on the eastern horizon.
At the sight of this light, symbolizing the blessings showered by Ayyappa on the awestruck
congregation, the pilgrims go into a spiritual frenzy and then for a while the hills and forests
reverberate with the chant of “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa”.

The pilgrim returns home to his mundane life with the serene feeling of having performed a pious
deed. But the irresistible call of Sabarimala — Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa — reverberates in his
heart through his life.