ADVANCED TESTING METHODS

A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

Eng. Daniela Ferroni, PhD

R&D Department
Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento SpA
 R&D DEPARTMENT
AT YOUR SERVICE

 Product innovation
 Process optimization
 Market diversification

“INNOVATION IS WHAT DISTINGUISHES A LEADER FROM A FOLLOWER”

Steve Jobs
New testing methods and device
 New textile applications

 Composite
 Building
 And more…..
Optimization of production processes

 New process
 LCA
 And more…..
Links between enterprises and research centres

 International networking
 European project
A taste of activities
COMFORT INDEX
COMFORT INDEX

SENSORY TESTING THERMO-PHYSIOLOGICAL TESTING

TESTS ABLE TO REPRODUCE THE TESTS AIM TO ANALYZE TEXTILE

SENSATIONS FELT BY THE WEARER OF
THE FABRIC.
THE SYSTEM ANALYSES FABRIC AND
SKIN.
PROPERTIES ABLE TO AFFECT THE ABILITY
OF THE HUMAN BODY TO MAINTAIN ITS
TEMPERATURE IN A STABLE AND
COMFORTABLE STATE.
THE SYSTEM ANALYSES FABRIC, BODY,
SWEAT AND SURROUNDINGS.
COMFORT INDEX

LEONARDO IS READY AND WAITING TO DO HIS BIT!!

FRICTION TESTING MACHINE

Testing parameters:
Tamb ÷ 40°C (body temperature)
Different control system (TUP ; Tbottom)
5 ÷ 1700 mm/s
Variable stroke
± 75 mm maximum stroke
0.5 ÷ 5 kg
FRICTION TESTING MACHINE
VIBRATION ANALYSIS
COMFORT INDEX SIMULATION OF PHYSICAL WAVES ON
STICKINESS LEVEL OF WET CLOTHING BUILDING AND COMPONENT
FRICTION TESTING MACHINE

AESTHETIC AND FUNCTIONAL ANALYSIS

DURABILITY OF SURFACE PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS

Pilling
Sand passage

Roughness

MORE AND MORE…

AND MORE …
RECYCLED FIBRE

IDENTIFICATION OF RECYCLED FIBRES

 Experimental innovation
 Reduction of environmental impact
 Green Public Procurement
 Added value for fibre and textile
product
RECYCLED FIBRE
TENSILE STRENGTH TEST COLOR FASTNESS TESTS
400 Vergine Riciclato

300 TO PERSPIRATION TO RUBBINGS

Franghi [N]

200

100

0
Piquet greggio
Raw Piquet Piquet tinto
Dyed Piquet Pile
Pile

400 Vergine
Virgin Riciclato
Recycled TO LIGHT
300
Ffile [N]

200

100

0
Piquet
Raw greggio
Piquet Piquet tinto
Dyed Piquet Pile
Pile

No relevant variation
RAIN TOWER
UNI EN 14360 - Protective clothing against rain
Test method for ready made garments. Impact from above with high energy droplets

Static manikin
exposed to
artificial rain
(450±50) l/(m²h) - typical
cloudburst in Central
Europe region
RAIN TOWER
TEST PROCEDURE TEST REPORT
1. Position of wetted areas
(underwear and inner side of
garment)
2. Total underwear wet area

Test failure

Manikin wearing water

absorbent underwear and
garments to test
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

IDENTIFICATION AND QUANTIFICATION OF DIFFERENT SPECIES IN

ANIMAL FIBERS BY LC-MS/MS

 Experimental innovation
 Guarantee for the consumer
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION
Light microscopy Scanning electron microscopy
Information on the internal and (SEM)
external structure of the fibers, Analysis of the fine structures of
reveals details of the shape, the cuticle cells at high resolution
cuticole morphology, internal
pigmentation and medullation.
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION
DNA method
Based on mitochondrial DNA
extracted from natural or
processed animal hair, by mean
of TaqMan polymerase chain
reaction (PCR) primers and
probes, that can react specifically
to goat and sheep mitochondrial
12 S ribosomal (rRNA) genes.
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD

 Testing method developed and validated by

Centrocot
 Applicable to different type of textile materials
(e.g. staples, tops, yarns and fabrics)
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD

fibers Scissors Ether Thiourea

(2h) Urea
Water DTT
(1h) (2days)

Prewash & cut

Protein extraction Peptide extraction

AdvanceBio flow rate Cashmere: keratin1

sample PeptideMap, 0.2 ml/min Sheep: keratin1
2.1 x 150 60 min Yak: keratin1
LC/MS (SIM mode)
LC-MS/MS (MRM mode)
 Thank you for your attention

Eng. Daniela Ferroni, PhD

Laboratory Research and Development Department
daniela.ferroni@centrocot.it

Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento S.p.A.

Piazza Sant’Anna, 2 - 21052 Busto Arsizio (VA) - ITALY
Tel. +39 0331 696711 - Fax +39 0331 680056
info@centrocot.it - www.centrocot.it
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

2 THERMAL MANIKIN

THERMAL MANIKIN TEST

UNI EN ISO 15831 - Clothing - Physiological effects
Measurement of thermal insulation by means of a thermal manikin
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

2 THERMAL MANIKIN

DEVICE

Inspection
window

Infrared window

20 independently controlled Walk in climatic

chamber
thermal zones

Manikin system
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

2 THERMAL MANIKIN

TEST PROCEDURE

Manikin dressed in all his parts with

clothing ensemble
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

2 THERMAL MANIKIN

Accessories
Sportswear
(sleeping bag)

APPLICATIONS

Automotive
Personal Protective
Equipment (sitting, interior, air
conditioning)

Non-standard research and

development uses
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

4 RAIN TOWER

DEVICE Tub with

water
temperature
sensor

Ambient
temperature
25±5 sensor
°

5±2°

Tub: 682 nozzles –

0,6 mm hole diameter

Manikin positioning
ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD FOR ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD FOR ANIMAL FIBER IDENTIFICATION

Keratin was extracted from yak, wool and cashmere fibers and digested by trypsin,
providing peptide mixtures that were analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled with
electrospray mass spectrometry (LC/ESI-MS) in order to identify peptidic species-specific
markers able to differentiate the fibers.
Several suitable peptide markers were identified and validated in different
fibers of different origin and treated with different technological finishing,
showing 100% specificity and 100% selectivity
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ANIMAL FIBRES
5 IDENTIFICATION

Cashmere
PROTEOMIC METHOD-Reporting

Wool

Yak
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ANIMAL FIBRES
5 IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD-Instrumental principle

Cashmere m/z 1257

Cashmere m/z 816

Cashmere m/z 652

Marker Cashmere m/z 288

multi-charged ion
Cashmere m/z 2691 m/z 898,1
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ANIMAL FIBRES
5 IDENTIFICATION

PROTEOMIC METHOD-Validation-Repeatability
Cashmere/wool 25:75
RESPONSE RESPONSE
PROVA N° % WOOL % CASHMERE
CASHMERE WOOL
1 11250 30120 72,81 27,19
2 10062 26247 72,29 27,71
3 15593 40229 72,07 27,93
4 15549 40107 72,06 27,94
5 14450 39445 73,19 26,81
6 18460 49669 72,90 27,10
7 15099 40301 72,75 27,25
8 17397 51049 74,58 25,42
9 13914 40215 74,29 25,71
10 14578 40041 73,31 26,69

Repeatability
n determination : 10
Min. : 25,42
Max : 27,94
Range : 2,52
Averange Xm : 26,9
sr2 : 0,69
Standard deviation: 0,83
CVr % : 3,08
Gradi di libertà ( v=n-1) : 9
t di Student ( v =n-1; p=0,95) : 2,2
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ORGANIC RAW
6 COTTON

ORGANIC RAW COTTON

Cotton is a crop that requires intensive N

(nitrogen) fertilizers during the growing season,
because N is the most important single element
that enables high-yield of cotton crops.
Nitrogen can be supplied to the soil as chemical
(e.g., urea) and/or organic (e.g., compost)
fertilizers.
Organic raw cotton should be genuinely
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ORGANIC RAW
6 COTTON

In the global market for organic cotton fibre, textile, clothing, and other
commodities, no standard or even test method is available in identifying the
production of raw organic cottons.

ISO – «NEW» WORK ITEM PROPOSAL

Textiles. Method for qualitative detection of organic raw cotton fibres
using stable nitrogen isotope ratio measurements
The use of GMO crop varieties can be identified by real-time PCR (polymerase
chain reaction) and the presence of synthetic pesticides by the state-of-the art
pesticide residue analysis.
The novel test method proposed herein is the analytical procedure to measure
stable N isotope ratios of the aliquot of a sample and thus fingerprint the use of
synthetic fertilizers during cotton cultivation.
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ORGANIC RAW
6 COTTON

PRINCIPLE - ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

Compost, a widely used organic fertilizer, has a higher δ15N value than
synthetic fertilizer due to faster NH3 volatilization of the lighter N
isotope (14N) than 15N. In contrast, synthetic fertilizers are produced from
the atmospheric N2 via the Haber-Bosch process, resulting in low δ15N values close to atmospheric N2.
Therefore, the δ15N of synthetic fertilizers was close to 0 ‰, ranging from −3.9 ‰ to 0.5 ‰,
while compost has much higher δ15N than synthetic fertilizers, ranging between 15.4 ‰ and 19.4 ‰.

The addition of compost increases crop-δ15N compared to soil- δ15N at harvest, while the application
of synthetic fertilizer decreases crop-δ15N,resulting in considerably higher crop-δ 15N values for
organically grown crops (15N-enrichment) as opposed to crops receiving synthetic fertilizers (15N
depletion).
This contrasting pattern of crop-δ15N versus soil-δ15N makes it possible to use δ15N signal stored in
crop tissues as a potential marker for identifying organic produce such as organic raw cotton.
Therefore, this N isotopic fingerprinting can provide evidences in tracing raw cottons from the origins
to processing of cotton fiber, textile, and clothing.
 ADVANCED TEST METHODS
A REAL ADD VALUE FOR INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS

ORGANIC RAW
6 COTTON

APPARATUS

The isotopic N signal (δ15N) of an

aliquot of the dried cotton sample
is measured with high precision
and accuracy by using a
continuous-flow type isotope ratio
mass spectrometer linked to an
elemental analyzer (EA-IRMS).

An aliquot of the test sample is