Audi S5 Brake Change - Front

1. Remove the decorative hub cap – using the special tool from the trunk.
2. Break loose wheel lug nuts, using tire iron or 17mm lug wrench. It’s easiest to
do this with the car still on the ground.
3. Jack up car and support with jack stand. For front wheels – if you can’t place a
jack stand at the standing seam, try placing it under the connection between the
lower wishbone and chassis (about 1 foot inside the wheel).
4. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
5. Unscrew the filler cap from the brake fluid reservoir, and place towels around the
reservoir to catch any brake fluid that may overflow the reservoir.
6. For front left wheel, with brake pad sensor - remove brake pad sensor:
a. The wire is routed under two retainers – note how it is routed, and then
remove the wire from the retainers.
b. Grab the sensor end with pliers and pull out from the brake pad, and let
dangle.
c. Disconnect the sensor wire assembly from the car. First remove the
connector from the mounting bracket – pull back the plastic snap latch tab,
rotate the connector 90 degrees, and the connector assembly can then
be removed form the bracket. Then unplug the sensor from the brake
pad – use a small screwdriver to pry the snap latch apart and the two
halves can then be disconnected.
7. Remove caliper from rotor:
a. Remove the anti-rattle spring – you can pry one leg off the caliper with a
screw driver and the spring will pop off.
b. Loosen and remove the two bolts on the inboard side of the caliper w/
13mm heads.
c. Pry back the rear brake pad away from the rotor – use a screwdriver to
pry it back until you can see daylight between the pad and rotor.
d. Remove the caliper from the caliper carrier – you may need to rock it
back and forth a bit.
e. Support the caliper so that its weight is not carried by the brake hose.
8. Remove and replace the rotor and caliper carrier:
a. Remove caliper carrier – two 21mm bolts. You’ll ned a breaker bar for
this.
b. Remove torx screw that secures rotor to hub. Size: T-30.
c. The rotor should come off pretty easily, but you may ned to knock it with a
hammer to break loose any corrosion between the aluminum rotor “hat”
and the wheel hub.
d. Installation of the new rotor is the reverse process. Apply anti-sieze
compound to the hub, then place rotor on hu and secure with torx screw. .
Do not over-tighten the torx screw.
e. Re-attach caliper carrier bracket – torque about 100 lb-ft?
9. Remove the old pads from brake caliper. The inside pad is held to the brake
piston with spring clips – you should be able to pull it right out. The outboard pad
is held to the caliper surface via the sticky back of the caliper - pry it loose and
remove.
10. The caliper piston needs to be pressed back into the caliper housing so that it is
flush and the new, thicker pads will clear the rotor. You can use a large C clamp
to force it back – it is handy to use the old pad as a surface to press against.
When the piston moved back it will cause some brake fluid to be forced back into
 the reservoir, so be careful that any spillage from the reservoir is caught by the
towels that you placed in step 5.
11. Place new pads into the caliper:
a. For the inboard pad - first apply anti-squeal compound to the rear of the
inboard pad, in the area where it will contact the face of the caliper piston,
then insert the spring clips into the brake piston.
b. For the new outboard pad, remove the paper from the sticky side, and
position the pad in the caliper
c. Apply anti-squeal compound to the mounting “notches” at top and bottom
of the two pads (where they will ride on the caliper carrier pins.
12. Place the caliper with new pads installed back over the rotor and onto the caliper
carrier. The bolt carrier on the calipers may interfere with the mating female
threaded part on the caliper carrier – you can pull back on these so that there is
adequate room to clear.
13. Once the caliper is properly positioned, apply lubricant to the threads of the
retaining bolts, then insert the bolts and tighten. Torque?
14. Left front wheel sensor wire – connect the new sensor wire assembly, snap the
connector into the bracket, route the wire into the retainer(s), and finally insert the
sensor into the inside brake pad – it should snap into place.
15. ReiInstall anti-rattle spring
16. Remount wheel and secure with lug bolts.
17. Remove jack stand(s) and lower car
18. Torque the lug bolts to 90 ft-lbs.
19. Reinstall the hub cap.
20. Take the car out for a test drive, and bed the new pads

Notes for rear pads:

1. Use the VCDS to open the rear electric parking brakes.
2. Caliper bolts are 13 mm, and use a 15mm open wrench to keep securing nut
from turning.
3. Use brake servicing tool to press the piston back in. Use the adapter with a
single nib. Align with one of the slots in the piston. Turn the nut on the tool
clockwise to apply pressure; use a wrench to turn it.

Quick Guide to Using VCDS to Retract Rear Electric Parking Brake:

1. Boot PC, then connect VCDS cable using USB connector.
2. Connect OBD plug to car. Should get green light on connector.
3. Turn ignition switch in – don’t start car, but dashboard lights should come on.
4. Start VCDS application.
5. Check for proper connection between VCDS and car:
a. Options > Select Port> USB
b. Then “Test.” If OK, click “OK.” The “Save” to apply configuration. Return
to main menu
6. Run Autoscan. May want to save results in a log file.
7. Retract rear electric parking brake:
a. Select > 53-Parking Brake >Basic Setup -04 > Group 7, GO!
b. EPB should retract
c. Done, Go Back
8. Now OK to work in rear brakes – close down VCDS application, turn off ignition,
disconnect ON+BD connector from car.
9. When finished working on rear brakes, restart VCDS and connect to car, then
close EPB Select > 53-Parking Brake >Basic Setup -04 > Group 6, GO!
10. Also try cycling EPB: Select > 53-Parking Brake >Basic Setup -04 > Group 10,
GO!