AustralianGourmetTraveller May2018 PDF

THE 10 HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD
WHERE Australia’s
CHEFS EAT irst fish
(AFTER HOURS butchery
GALETT
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Editor Sarah Oakes
Managing Editor Pat Nourse
Creative Director Liz Elton
Travel Editor Helen Anderson
Food Director Lisa Featherby
Art
Art Director Brooke Donaldson
Junior Designer Laura Jacobs
Words
Senior Editor David Matthews
Subeditors Nick Hadley, Bronwyn Thompson
Editorial Coordinator Harriet Davidson
Digital Managing Editor Amber Manto
Digital Writer Emma Breheny
Contributors
Max Allen, Fiona Donnelly, Sue Dyson & Roger McShane, Michael Harden,
Kendall Hill, Emma Knowles, Gareth Meyer, David Sly, Max Veenhuyzen,
Paulette Whitney Interns Florence Falkiner, Matthew Hirsch,
Kayla Kip, Rina Lowy, Laksha Prasad, Shalini Sen, Cathy Yin
Advertising
Group Brand Manager, Homes Analise Gattellaro (02) 9282 8935
Advertising Production Manager Kate Orsborn (02) 9282 8364
Senior Events Manager Cate Gazal (02) 8116 9342
Brand Executive Jennifer Burke (02) 9288 9145
NSW Head of Key Accounts Karen Holmes (02) 9282 8733
Director of Sales – Vic, SA, WA Jaclyn Clements (03) 9823 6341
Victoria Head of Direct Sales Will Jamison (03) 9823 6301
OɯRAMA Collection Queensland Head of Sales Judy Taylor (07) 3101 6636
Creative Director Clare Catt (02) 8116 9341
by Newform Title Controller Rachel Rae (02) 8114 9451
Advertising Production Coordinator Dominic Roy (02) 9282 8691
Marketing, Research & Circulation

Commercial Analyst Marisa Spasich
Associate Publisher/Marketing Zenna Katsikaris
PARISI.com.au Circulation Intelligence Manager Sarah Ossitt
Research Analyst Ania Falenciak
Group Subscriptions Manager Sean McLintock
Subscriptions Campaign Manager Lauren Flinn
Syndication inquiries syndication@bauer-media.com.au
Bauer Media
Chief Executive Oicer Paul Dykzeul
General Manager Publishing Fiorella Di Santo
Commercial Director Australia Paul Gardiner
General Manager Media Solutions Jane Waterhouse
Research Director Miriam Condon
Editorial oice GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia, phone +61 2 9282 8758,
email askgourmet@bauer-media.com.au, website gourmettraveller.com.au, Instagram @gourmettraveller
Published by Bauer Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000,
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S O M E T I M E S O N LY A
CAPPUCCINO WIL L DO
The new Latissima One.
For the love of quality cofee moments.
Food
MUM’S THE AUTUMN TARTS PRINCIPLE INDIAN
WORD HARVEST Filled with fruit PLEASURES SPICE
We asked chefs Market gardener or ganache, or Josh Murphy and Pushpesh Pant
for dishes their Paulette Whitney quivering with Rory Cowcher from delves into a few
mums used to lays her table with just-set custard, Melbourne’s Harley of the dishes from
make. Even now, the bounty of the tarts are one & Rose ofer their his new book, The
they’re still sharing land she cultivates of life’s simple top hits to share Indian Vegetarian
the love. with her family. pleasures. with friends. Cookbook.
92 100 108 116 126

Features
BREAK IT GREAT UNDER THE THRILL THE LAST
DOWN EXPECTATIONS TABLE SEEKERS STRAW
Josh Niland, of When Lune A new cottage- From the Andes to Harriet Leigh of
Saint Peter, has Croissanterie’s Kate industry of home LA, Michael Harden Archie Rose
reimagined the Reid started baking, cooks is thriving counts down the Distilling Co. says
fish shop with Fish it put her on the online, ofering 10 most exciting it’s time to suck it
Butchery. Here’s path to recovery dishes little seen new restaurants up and say no to
a day in the life. from anorexia. elsewhere. in the world. single-use straws.
72 78 82 84 88
Travel
FINE STREETS THE LATE
CHINA AHEAD SHIFT
A project of Amoy Street Looking for the best
epic scope, is ground zero places to eat and
Amanyangyun for Singapore’s drink when all the
is the most hottest eats and sensible people
remarkable hotel drinks. We explore are tucked up in
opening of 2018. the essentials. bed? Ask a chef.
136 146 152 Rhubarb

galette
p 114
Autumn
flavours
Fine
China
p 136
Regulars ON THE COVER

Rhubarb galette (p114).
14 EDITOR’S LETTER 42 THE EXPLAINER 90 SUBSCRIBE

Korean jangs. Receive a $25 voucher
16 CONTRIBUTORS for Hardtofind.
44 CLEAN EATING
18 FOUR DISHES Beetroot. 156 DESIGN
Our favourite plates Cellar doors revamped.
this month. 46 PRODUCE
Paulette Whitney sings 160 TRAVEL MEMOIR
21 NEWS the virtues of veg boxes Do jokes work as well in
The latest from the food and seasonal eating. Farsi as in French?
and travel scenes.
47 ANATOMY OF A DISH 161 CITY HITLIST
30 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Beef Wellington. Barcelona mixes tapas Recipe & food styling
Elegant vases. bars and Gaudí with craft Lisa Featherby
48 DRINKS brews and curios. Photography Ben Dearnley
32 HOW I EAT Hybrid drinks are pushing Food preparation Max Adey
Indigenous leader Martha the boundaries. 162 STYLE
Langton on night-hunting Rainbow pastels to flow SUBSCRIBE
and meeting HRH. 51 MELBOURNE REVIEW from work to play. magshop.com.au/
It’s out with the French australian-gourmet-traveller
35 HOW I TRAVEL and in with the fish as 164 BEAUTY
Pulitzer Prize winner Bistro Vue reopens as Essential scents.
Jennifer Egan on Iki-Jime.
travelling solo. 168 STOCKISTS
53 SYDNEY REVIEW Plus our cook’s notes ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
39 FIVE OF A KIND Can’t get into Fred’s? The and privacy notice. OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges
An assortment of salted new Hotel Centennial
caramels to indulge in. keeps it in the family with 169 RECIPE INDEX the Gadigal people of the Eora
Nation as the traditional custodians
simple Mediterranean fare. of the place we now call Sydney,
40 MASTERCLASS 170 FARE EXCHANGE where this magazine is published.
A step-by-step guide to 57 QUICK MEALS Chefs’ recipes you’ve Gourmet Traveller also pays
the best béchamel. Midweek meals in no time. requested. respects to elders past and present.
12 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Editor’s letter
Chefs and
their mums
Roma Douglas and Aaron Turner (Igni)

Mum’s chocolate ripple cake, p96.
Andalusian
spinach
and chickpeas,
and Mum’s
lasagne
p 94
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (ANDALUSIAN SPINACH AND CHICKPEAS & MUM’S LASAGNE) & ALANA LANDSBERRY (SARAH OAKES PORTRAIT)
Ali Currey-Voumard (Agrarian
S
ome of my fondest food eater you’ll be, and this month, to
Kitchen) and Jill Currey
memories from growing up celebrate Mother’s Day, we asked some
Broccoli soup and cheesy toast, p98.
in the Snowy Mountains of our favourite chefs to recreate the
are of spending long most memorable dishes from their
afternoons exploring a nearby childhood (p92). From chicken curry
ravine in the national park. We’d with pickled pineapple to lemon
skim along dirt tracks overrun with delicious pudding, they’re all recipes
blackberry bushes, plucking the made with a lot of love by home cooks
fruit and filling up ice-cream buckets so good they ignited a lifelong passion
to the brim. We’d come home a little for food in some of our finest chefs.
scratched-up from altercations with Enjoy the memories,
blackberry barbs, but with a full
bounty of juicy berries that my
mum would then turn into pies, Miriam Patricia Juarez and
soft buttery teacakes and jam. Alejandro Cancino (Urbane)
We lived in a small, isolated Potato gnocchi with tuco, p95.
township called Cabramurra.
Our nearest supermarket was Follow
nearly two hours away, so cooking
interesting meals required a fair @ SARAHALICEOAKES
amount of ingenuity and a heavy
reliance on the deep freezer. But my
parents were adventurous eaters and
passionate cooks; they used whatever
resources they could to recreate
dishes from books they’d bought
and restaurants they’d visited. Bethany Finn (Mayflower
What and how your parents Restaurant) and Barbara Finn
cook sets a course for the kind of Lemon delicious pudding, p99.
EMAIL ASKGOURMET@BAUER-MEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
Contributors
Autumn
harvest
p 100
ALEXANDRA CARLTON KATE REID PAULETTE WHITNEY JOE WARWICK PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON (PAULETTE WHITNEY & CHICKENS), DAVID GRIFFEN (JOE WARWICK), KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (KATE REID)
writer baker writer editor
Under the table, p82 Great expectations, p78 Autumn harvest, p100 The late shift, p152
Perusing Gumtree and Facebook Kate Reid started acclaimed Market gardener Paulette In the third and latest edition
Marketplace, Alexandra Carlton Melbourne croissanterie Lune in Whitney grows an eclectic of Where Chefs Eat, its editor
noticed ads for homemade 2012, while she was recovering range of edible plants for the Joe Warwick has compiled
food, from Indian samosas to from anorexia. Throughout her chefs and home cooks of 4,500 recommendations in
Egyptian hawawshi. “I wanted adulthood, food has been her Hobart, but when it comes to 70 countries from more than
to know who these home cooks greatest passion and her fiercest feeding her family she enjoys 660 chefs. “Given the hours they
were and if the food was any enemy. “Anorexia well and truly the classics. “Our dinner menu keep, chefs’ late-night selections
good,” she says. It is – and no, has you long before you know writes itself,” she says. “It’s are always particularly strong,”
she didn’t get food poisoning you have it,” she says in her as though a vegetable at its he says. “I normally smile for the
during her research. “‘Kitchen heartfelt account of illness prime summons you, practically camera but this shot, taken in
watched over by a strict and recovery. “But at some asking to be eaten.” A monthly Berlin last summer, captures my
mother’, read one Facebook point in the last few years I columnist for the magazine mood perfectly the morning after
ad, which was endorsement stopped worrying about food (Produce p46), in this issue a lengthy chef-led, post-service
enough for me.” and started enjoying it again.” she branches out to recipes. ‘research’ session.”
You create your culinary masterpiece, we’ll clean ours. The Combi-steam oven.
The difference is Gaggenau.

Creating flawless perfection can be a messy process.
While our Combi-steam oven 400 series frees you to bake,
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We introduced the Combi-steam oven to the private kitchen
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For more information, please visit www.gaggenau.com/au.
Four dishes
What we’re
eating
Gourmet Traveller stafers share
their favourite plates of the moment.
SCALLOP AND MACADAMIA

TARTS, Paper Daisy
It takes imagination and no small
amount of patience to use slivers of
green macadamia as the pièce de
résistance on these one-bite scallop
and cucamelon tarts. The canapés
change often at Paper Daisy, but local
seafood, tropical plants and sharp
wit are always on the menu. Paper
Daisy, 21 Cypress Cres, Cabarita
Beach, NSW, (02) 6676 1444.
PAT NOURSE, MANAGING EDITOR
FLATHEAD TACO,
Bar Patrón by Rockpool
Bar Patrón may be making headlines
with its $100 Millionaire’s Margarita
and extra añejo tequila, but the
admirable range of salsas to
accompany tostadas and tacos
suggest that there’s guts to go with
the glory. Case in point: the pico de
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID KELLY (PONY), JASON LOUCAS (BAR PATRÓN) & PAT NOURSE (PAPER DAISY)
gallo complementing the battered
flathead tacos. Bar Patrón, 2 Phillip St,
Circular Quay, NSW, (02) 9259 5624.
DAVID MATTHEWS, SENIOR EDITOR
EEL, LARDO, FURIKAKE AND

BARRAMUNDI COLLAR, LEMON ICEPLANT, d’Arenberg Cube
MYRTLE SALT AND BURNT Out of the river and onto the
BUTTER, Pony Dining hibachi grill. A thick cut of eel
Nut-brown butter makes everything gets a lick of flame and smoke
better – including this clever snack of before chefs Brendan Wessels
barramundi collar. Flake of the clean and Lindsay Durr apply a few
white flesh, dip it in the butter and clever touches – lardo and
repeat. The lemon myrtle is used furikake adding umami and sea
sparingly. And yes, you’ll want to lick herbs lifting it. d’Arenberg Cube,
your fingers. Pony Dining 18/45 Eagle 58 Osborn Rd, McLaren Vale, SA,
St, Brisbane, Qld, (07) 3181 3400. (08) 8329 4888. DAVID SLY, SOUTH
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NEWS Edited by HELEN ANDERSON & LEE TRAN LAM
Hidden gems
A dedicated pie room,
the ultimate small bar and
the hotel group making
its mark in Australia.
PHOTOGRAPHY NICOLE ENGLAND
Salon de Co,
Ovolo Inchcolm,
Brisbane.
p 22
Ovolo Inchcolm
in Brisbane.
Right, from top:
a suite; the hotel’s
Salon de Co; the
Thomson suite.
HOT HOTELS
The “fun” takeover

With vibrant design and a “never boring” service ethos,
Ovolo is taking the Australian market by storm.
Hong Kong-based Ovolo the family-owned company There’s a new look, “We believe these ventures
Hotels is making a serious has acquired another five meanwhile, at Ovolo Inchcolm, are the perfect alignment for
play for the Australian market east-coast properties. It formerly The New Inchcolm Ovolo and fit our ethos of
– with a big emphasis on the bought the hotel on Sydney’s Hotel & Suites in Spring Hill. design very well,” says Ovolo
word “play”. historic Woolloomooloo The 1929 heritage-listed CEO Girish Jhunjhnuwala.
With a service ethos it wharf for $35 million in building was the residence and What’s next? “We are
labels as FUN (“fabulous, 2014 and spent another consulting rooms of Brisbane looking at places like Noosa,
unconventional, never $20 million on renovations, surgeon John Thomson, and Byron Bay, Port Douglas and
boring”), the group’s hotels followed by the opening while the building’s Art Deco the Gold Coast to create
typically feature bold design of a sister property, Ovolo features remain, the new look eco-friendly, lifestyle resorts,”
and an uncommon number 1888 Darling Harbour, in a is pure Ovolo with cheeky says Dave Baswal, chief
of freebies, from minibars former woolstore in Pyrmont. visual references to its past in operating officer of Ovolo
and “loot bags” of snacks to Ovolo Nishi in Canberra Damien Hirst pills, skeletons Hotels Australia. “We are
guest laundries and nightly opened in March, in what and a “cabinet of curiosity”. always looking for new
PHOTOGRAPHY NICOLE ENGLAND
happy hours. was the market-leading Hotel Ovolo has started opportunities.”
The launch last month Hotel. Ovolo has promised renovating another new Ovolo Inchcolm,
of Ovolo Inchcolm in Brisbane minimal changes to the Brisbane acquisition, 73 Wickham Tce, Spring
is the latest milestone in the celebrated property (though Emporium Hotel, with a Hill, Qld, (07) 3226 8888;
group’s rapid expansion. we’re sad to report the Woods Bagot design and new Ovolo Nishi, 25 Edinburgh
Since opening its first disappearance of the restaurant and bar planned. Ave, Canberra, ACT,
Australian hotel in 2013, yabby jaffle from the menu It will open its doors as Ovolo (02) 6287 6287;
Melbourne’s Ovolo Laneways, at Monster Kitchen & Bar). The Valley late in the year. ovolohotels.com
News
Time to refuel
The ultimate small bar could well
be small enough to fit into your
own kitchen or garage. These
cabinets have been recycled from
discarded jerry cans. BYO booze. By
Top3 By Design, $1060. top3.com.au
Carb-load on pasta Chase Kojima

or prioritise dessert SOKYO, SYDNEY & KIYOMI, GOLD COAST
at Melbourne’s Italian
Wine & Food Festival
on 27 May, at the
Royal Exhibition
Building. Pop-ups by
ON THE PASS
Saluministi, 400 Gradi,
Cow & the Moon and
Which ingredients are you excited to be Do you make your own miso?
more. italianwine experimenting with right now? I haven’t, but my dad does. It tastes like a
foodfestival.com.au Bluefin tuna, sea urchin and trules. I have Japanese-style hummus – you can just dip
a sushi dish called Chase Toro Toro: I make vegetables into it. I like to use stuf that’s
toro sushi, put sea urchin and Australian made already. How can I make miso that’s
trules in it and serve it on crisp nori. My better than miso made by people in Japan
Two Good Co. operates friend James Audas, a former sommelier who’ve been making it for hundreds of
on a buy one, give one for Noma, explained that it’s the best one years? Although, my dad’s is very good.
basis. It’s already well bite you can have of one thing. It is. It’s Is there a supplier you’re excited about?
known for selling meals craziness, it makes you want to swear. If you walk into a grocery store in Japan,
this way (with dishes Where does the name come from? the tofu is so good. But in Australia, I don’t
based on recipes by There’s a super chef in the US called Masa know, maybe they’re playing it safe. Chang
Mitch Orr, Peter Gilmore Takayama with a dish called Masa Toro Toro. Chi’s Aming Chang, which we use at Kiyomi,
and other renowned It’s toro and caviar. You eat it with a spoon tastes good. I like that he’s making it fresh
chefs), and now every with some wasabi soy sauce. So I was like, every day and he’s close by.
order of its new beauty Chase Toro Toro. Sokyo, The Darling, The Star, 80 Pyrmont
pack will see an extra Tell us about the lamb chops with St, Pyrmont, NSW, (02) 9657 9161,
set sent to domestic Vegemite miso sauce you’ll be star.com.au; Kiyomi, The Star Gold
violence shelters demonstrating on the Gold Coast Coast, 1 Casino Dr, Broadbeach, Qld,
across the country. next month at the Gourmet Institute (07) 5592 8130, thestargoldcoast.com.au
twogood.com.au It’s a very important dish to me, because Catch Chase Kojima on 6 June at Kiyomi
that lamb dish got me the job at Sokyo, as part of the 2018 Gourmet Institute.
basically. I can’t take it of the menu. harveynorman.com.au/gourmet-institute ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 23
THREE OF THE BEST
At home in Bali
Gather friends and family for good
times in these tropical villas.
Alila Villas Uluwatu This cliftop jigsaw puzzle of

striking Modernist architecture houses 65 villas
on the southern tip of Bali. Each has its own
pool and cabana, but guests also gather at the
50-metre pool with views across the ocean, at
the yoga pavilion and in the two restaurants. Each
villa, with one to three bedrooms, has a butler
who’s also trained as a babysitter.
Chef Calum
Franklin’s pie
room, featuring
chicken, pork and
curry pies (right).
Life of pie
The Club at The Legian These one- and two- This is how Holborn
bedroom beachside villas may be in busy Seminyak, Dining Room in London
yet they’re cocooned by tropical gardens and private
pools. Stays include butler service, snacks and
warms up a crowd.
minibar drinks, breakfast, airport transfers and
a private car for shopping in Seminyak. When Calum Franklin was growing are times we stand in a huge
up, his mother was his pie-making freezer cutting the smallest, most
mentor. “I remember seeing her intricate lattice to cover the top
ruffle the potato on top of a of a pie,” he says.
shepherd’s pie with a fork, and The kitchen makes 200 pies
thinking how cool that was,” he a day and there’s a takeaway
says. The executive chef at Holborn window for customers in a
Dining Room in London has hurry. The best response to his
taken his lifelong obsession with creations? One family made a
pastry to the next level – opening video of themselves unboxing
Victorian-style The Pie Room a personalised pâté en croûte
at his restaurant. and uploaded it to YouTube.
The Villas at Ayana Resort Bali Expect
massages, flower baths, butler service and a
The menu includes both “That was pretty special,
guaranteed sunset reservation at the resort’s classic British and modern seeing it directly making people
Rock Bar during stays at its 78 one- and two- examples (“my favourite at the happy, which is really what it’s
bedroom villas on the cliftop of Jimbaran Bay. moment is a curried mutton pie”) all about,” says Franklin.
Many have ocean views; all have private pools. and the pastrywork is exquisite. The Pie Room at Holborn Dining
Villas recommended by boutique travel agency Sometimes he’ll use a scalpel for Room, 252 High Holborn, London,
Travel Associates, travel-associates.com.au ultra-detailed flourishes. “There WC1V 7EN, holborndiningroom.com
News
The wrinkle-free drill goes like Would you like

this: button shirts, lay them
face down in Victorinox’s new
fries with that?
Pakmaster, centre using the Channel Sydney’s Bar Ume
supplied positioning device, with take-home burger-friendly
fold the garments in half, and accompaniments: renkon chips
close the case’s four tabs. Slip ($4), umami salt ($5) and sodas
it into a backpack or suitcase in passionfruit-ginger, strawberry-
for crease-free arrivals. vanilla and yuzu with brown sugar
From $119. victorinox.com flavours ($6 each). umeburger.com
HAVE ART,
WILL TRAVEL
Liza Murphy uses a mix of photos, sketches and
Google Maps to create her prints inspired by
PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN CAREY (THE PIE ROOM), RODNEY MACUJA (BAR UME)
Australian landmarks and suburbs – from Bondi

Icebergs to Melbourne’s Flinders Street station.
She gets many requests, and says they also double
as inspiration for future trip destinations. “I keep all
my recommendations in a large spreadsheet and
hopefully I’ll get around to designing them all at
some point,” she says. Follow her work on Instagram
(@lizamurphysydney) or find it at The Finders Keepers
markets, 4-6 May at The Cutaway, Barangaroo
Reserve, Sydney. thefinderskeepers.com.
Get schooled by top chefs at Gourmet Institute: in Adelaide on 9 May, Jock Zonfrillo
(from GT’s 2018 Restaurant of the Year, Orana) shows his flair for native ingredients;
and on the Gold Coast on 6 June, Chase Kojima (Sokyo, Kiyomi) assembles a
Japanese picnic. For tickets, visit harveynorman.com.au/gourmet-institute
News
World
view
Vrindavan,
Uttar Pradesh, India
GREG ELMS, PHOTOGRAPHER
“One of the most popular

celebrations in the Hindu calendar
is Holi, also known as ‘the festival
of colours’, for good reason. It’s
a couple of days of chaotic, joyful
celebration of life, love and
the beginning of spring, when
people daub or throw coloured
sandalwood powder, called gulal,
on just about everything. Even the
cows are coloured.
“I shot this image in Vrindavan,
the town that’s regarded as the
childhood home of the playful
Hindu god Krishna. It’s said he
started the tradition of Holi by
smearing coloured powder on the
face of his wife, Radha.
“As pilgrims make their way to
the Old City’s temples, they’re met
by groups of mostly children who
throw powder on passersby. Inside
the Banke Bihari temple, I found
a moshpit of chanting, dancing
pilgrims throwing handfuls
of powder and occasionally
stopping to take selfies of
their technicoloured faces.”
News
RESTAURANT NEWS
SYDNEY Remember the fried MELBOURNE At Shik, Peter Jo ARLES Australians are taking
chicken at Hartsyard? It was the (Vini, Momofuku Seiobo) has over Chardon, the 40-seater
star of the eatery’s cookbook, been playing around with kimchi run by Laura Vidal and Harry
Fried Chicken & Friends, and made from warrigal greens and Cummins in the south of France.
had a big fanbase. Chef kohlrabi. He’s keen to push Michael West (Bar Brosé) will
Gregory Llewellyn figures he’s Korean food in new directions, be resident chef from 3 May
cooked the dish hundreds of sometimes with a native twist to 25 June, joined by Jack
thousands of times. It left (see his “sashimi salad” with Coghlan (The Bridge Room).
Hartsyard’s menu when the gojuchang and beach banana). Expect dishes that minimise
restaurant took a new direction There’s soju, Korean beers and food waste and showcase the
in January, but those who have a wine list recalling the natural produce of the countryside, such
been grieving for this dish drops he fell in love with while as lentil pithiviers with beetroot
(and other North American running the Seoul of Sydney and red wine lees sauce, and
hits from Hartsyard 1.0, such pop-up dinner at Berta. At preserved celeriac carpaccio.
as the poutine), will find them Sunda, chef Khanh Nguyen (Mr
at Wish Bone, the new Wong, Cirrus) has a distinctive Clockwise from
incarnation of Hartsyard’s take on Asian flavours, too: left: Shik’s Peter
sister bar, The Gretz. Expect think baby corn, bean curd Jo; baby corn with
typhoon-shelter crumb
a fun, quick-service menu, and typhoon-shelter crumb or from Sunda; Chardon
with pre-batched cocktails, heirloom tomato with Laughing in Arles, France;
tinnies and takeaway options. Cow cheese and jungle curry. Hartsyard’s fried chicken.
French fashion house Chloé has released three fragrances

in limited-edition travel size: Chloé’s signature eau de parfum,
its eau de toilette and a new scent infused with white roses.
Les Mini Chloé, $65 for a 20ml bottle, 1800 812 663.
THE FINAL CURTAIN
The last snow egg

The swansong of Australia’s most famous dessert.
Of course the response was crazy. In March, for the second season finale of MasterChef
when Quay announced it was retiring its in the show’s 2010 glory days, one of the
famous snow egg, the Sydney restaurant’s most-watched moments in Australian
website traffic tripled and the phones rang television. “It had nearly 4 million viewers,”
off the hook. It is, after all, Australia’s most says Gilmore. “It went ballistic.” The next
famous restaurant dessert. Chef Peter Gilmore day bookings spiked, Quay’s website crashed
first made it a decade ago, hatching an “egg” and people queued outside the venue, hoping
(it’s more rounded than egg-shaped, but for a takeaway version. (The snow egg has
“snow sphere” doesn’t have quite the same always been an eat-in treat, of course, but
ring to it) filled with poached meringue and Gilmore speculates that if he had sold them to
ice-cream topped with maltose tuile and go, he’d have made a cool million in sales over
served with granita and fool (that is, fruit the years.) It accounted for 70 per cent of
folded through cream) in a Riedel tumbler. Quay’s dessert orders right up to this year.
The flavours and fruits have changed more While proud of the dessert, and humbled
than 20 times, and the final variation, by diners’ reactions to it (customers have been
presented in April before Quay closed for known to shed a tear when it comes to the
renovations, featured pear, custard apple table), Gilmore says he’s ready to move onto
and mangosteen. But Gilmore says the Quay’s next phase. “A painter can’t keep
original combination remains his favourite: painting the same picture forever.” And don’t
guava fool and granita, and strawberry-guava expect a revival. “I can promise that it won’t
JOHN LAURIE ( FROM FRIED CHICKEN & FRIENDS BY GREGORY LLEWELLYN AND NAOMI HART, MURDOCH BOOKS, HBK, $49.99)
and custard-apple ice-cream. ever come back on the menu at Quay.”

The frenzy around the announcement of Could it follow the eight-textured chocolate
the dish’s retirement recalls the day the snow cake, another former Quay signature, to
egg went from being a cult favourite to a sister-restaurant Bennelong? Here’s hoping.
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (SNOW EGG), SCOTT HAWKINS (PETER JO), ANTHONY LANNERETONNE (CHARDON),
pop-culture phenomenon. It was the challenge Quay reopens in July 2018, quay.com.au
Objects of desire
Room to bloom
Set the mood, mark the occasion or freshen up the
table with vases to complement any lower.
1 Sorori Brass Vase, $175, from Ginkgo Leaf. 2 Rustic

Pure Vase in White, $29, from West Elm. 3 Resin
Large Swan Vase in Snow Swirl, $180, from Dinosaur
Designs. 4 Single Stem Test Tube vases, $3 each,
from Garlands Florist. 5 Keiko Matsui House KM4,
$190, from Imprint House. 6 Copper and Glass Bud
PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW. STYLING AIMEE JONES. BACKGROUND PAINTED IN DULUX ANGEL FACE ACRYLIC. SURFACE STYLIST’S OWN. STOCKISTS P168
Vase, $139, from The DEA Store. 7 Dariya Gratte
Sea Urchin Vase, $48, from China Clay. 8 Mini Miss
Marshmallow, $85, from Vanessa Bean. 9 Hand
1 Shaped Oak Tear Drop Vase, $68, from The DEA
Store. 10 Elke Lucas Bud Vase, $27, from The
DEA Store. Stockists p168.
2
5
10
9
6
7
Do you remember the first time you
experienced bush tucker?
I ate bush tucker as a child – fish, eel,
pigeon – but there are too many bush
foods to say that I’ve tried them all.
My favourite wild foods are fish,
especially yellowbelly and Murray cod,
although both are very rare. I have never
forgotten my first taste of yellowbelly, a
native fish of the western Queensland
channel region. It’s seasonal and before
irrigation schemes changed these rivers
it was possible to gather in groups and
haul the fish out of the river as they
came down with the big flows after heavy
rainfall. I’m still discovering bush foods.
In my adulthood, when I first travelled to
the north, I was given dugong and turtle.
These are very special food gifts and the
taste is indescribable in both cases.
Describe some of your memorable

eating and drinking experiences
while researching your latest book,
EATING WITH
Welcome to Country: A Travel Guide
Marcia
to Indigenous Australia.
One of my friends, Jessie Lloyd, is
a great cook and writes down the
What was in your lunchbox recipes for our foods. Her recipes can
when you were growing be found on her Mipla Kitchen website
Langton up? My family moved

frequently, from Brisbane
and from small town to
small town in southern
Queensland. I remember
my packed lunch in year
(miplakitchen.com). I use her recipes,
and cooked her sop sop (vegetables
cooked in coconut milk) and made
her namas (pickled fish). There are so
many influences on Aboriginal cuisines
and her north Queensland dishes have
The Indigenous leader and one at Inala State School: the south-east Asian and Malay influence
author on night-hunting, wild Vegemite sandwiches and because of the ancient coastal trade
an orange. On Tuesdays, across the north.
harvests and meeting HRH. I was given threepence
to spend on a cream bun You write about Australians who showcase
bought from the pastry truck Indigenous food. Name a few lasting
that came to the school. I memories. Eating wild foods is possible
remember being horrified by in only a few of Australia’s restaurants.
Brussels sprouts and tasting Ovaltine in Stanthorpe, but little else. These are predominantly Indigenous
restaurants, although Indigenous
Any other food memories from your childhood? We sometimes caterers are more common now. My
went fishing, and I can remember an eel-catching trip by a standard wild-food favourite is grilled
river. Otherwise, our meals were the standard Australian fare. kangaroo. I didn’t expect to find this
I can remember vividly the first time that I was excited by food. in Victoria when I first moved here, but
We were on the banks of a small river or channel near Bollon and I was thrilled to find grilled kangaroo
had shot some pigeons. We plucked and gutted them and roasted
them on the coals of our fire. My stepfather worked as a kangaroo
shooter for a while and I learnt about night-hunting as a child.
How I eat
at my first encounter at Charcoal cooked, and quickly became accustomed to these traditions.
Lane in Fitzroy. It was fresh, perfectly Still today, my diet is predominantly Asian.
grilled and reminded me of living on the
riverbank in Queensland as a child. Why do you think Asian food is remarkable? The heat of spices,
That’s the magic of food. especially chilli, the crunch of nuts, the tang of lime, lemon
or vinegar, the sweetness of palm sugar, the salt of soy sauce;
What’s another eatery you love? all of these elements make for a complicated cuisine with
Bushfoods Café, at the Brambuk Cultural many elaborations. Hunting, fishing and harvesting wild
Centre in Halls Gap, Victoria. I don’t foods are not possible in the vast urban conglomerations, but
make it there as much as I used to, but in the rural and coastal areas, these are traditions that remain
they have wonderful muffins made with very much alive, and fundamental to food security.
native herbs. Afternoon tea on the veranda
is a special experience in the beautiful In 1999, you had an audience with the Queen – you were one of
gorge setting, among the distinctive forest the first Indigenous Australians to visit Buckingham Palace since
trees and grasses of this region. Bennelong. What was your visit like? If you have watched The
Crown on Netflix, you might get a sense of my cultural shock
How did you feel reading Bruce Pascoe’s at encountering first-hand the traditions of meeting with the
book Dark Emu, and his assertion that monarch at the Palace from which the idea of the global British
Indigenous Australians were the first empire and its practices emanated. Her Majesty The Queen
people in the world to bake bread? Dark is a remarkable woman, highly intelligent and observant,
Emu is a profound challenge to and obviously highly informed
conventional thinking about Aboriginal about the situation of
life on this continent. He details the “When I first Australian Indigenous people.
Aboriginal economy and analyses travelled north I was
the historical data showing that our given dugong and You’re recognised for your
societies were not simple hunter-gatherer work as an anthropologist.
economies but sophisticated, with turtle. They are very How important is food when
farming and irrigation practices. This is special food gifts understanding other societies
the most important book on Australia and the taste is and cultures? Apart from
and should be read by every Australian. indescribable.” correct etiquette and
protocol, there is nothing
There seems to be a greater appreciation more important than food
for Aboriginal ingredients and cooking tradition. This is not simply about eating, but ways of eating;
these days. How do you view this what is eaten and when and by whom tell us a great deal about
changing attitude? It makes me happy peoples and their cultures. Food underpins most social events
that this is the case because it is now and is a fundamental element of socialising.
much easier to find Indigenous
Australian foods in restaurants and Do you have a certain ritual for getting in the right frame of mind
shops. I can buy kangaroo for human to think about work? I drink coffee in the morning, but rarely
INTERVIEW LEE TRAN LAM. PHOTOGRAPHY ARSINEH HOUSPIAN
consumption in supermarkets, and eat until lunchtime. Lunch is very important, and must be
native herbs in many delicatessens. treated as a daily ritual.
You travelled to Asia for the first time Was your latest book fuelled by tea or cofee – or very short lunch
in the 1970s. What influence did those breaks in between proofing pages? Coffee. Lots of coffee. ●
cuisines have on you? I learnt about
the local food traditions in each place,
and also occasionally learnt how to Marcia
cook in the local tradition. I discovered Langton’s new
soups, tofu, dumplings, pickles, noodle book, Welcome
to Country: A
and rice dishes, grilled meat and the Travel Guide
extraordinary range of seafood, raw and to Indigenous
Australia (Hardie
Grant Travel,
hbk, $39.99),
is out now.
How I travel
There’s almost nothing I won’t eat. And I

adore walking, miles and miles if possible.
I’m looking to lose myself, to forget
my bearings and my real life and have
adventures. It’s not all that different from
what I hope for when I read and write.
My husband and I are fantastic travelling

companions. We like to do all the same
things – it’s almost uncanny. We’re big
walkers, we love to ride bikes, we crave
history and culture; neither of us has
much tolerance for just lying on a beach.
Being a theatre director, he likes to watch
plays in other languages, which doesn’t
work so well for me, but it’s a great
opportunity to take a nap in the theatre!
We’ve also had tremendous trips with
our two sons. One summer we went to a
medieval festival in Visby, Sweden, and by
the end of a week the boys were sparring
with wooden swords and I was wearing a
small silver tiara.
Backpacking through China in the summer

TRAVELLING WITH of 1986, before the Tiananmen Square
massacre, was the trip that probably left
Jennifer I was born in Chicago and

moved to San Francisco with
the greatest impression on me. I was
flabbergasted by the distances – days and
days on trains. The landscape was unlike
Egan
my mother and stepfather anything I’d seen before, or since. I’m not
when I was seven. My father sure how much of that China exists any
stayed in Chicago, though, more; then, it was still routine to see old
and I visited him every women whose feet had been bound when
The Pulitzer Prize winner summer, so I feel as if I’m they were children.
really from both places.
on her gap year, medieval I like to overpack so I have choices
play-acting and discovering I took a gap year before and clean clothes, but I also like to do
university, worked in a carry-on. The result is a lot of sitting
the importance of solitude. café and finally bought on small suitcases, which are then so
a backpack, a ticket on heavy that I can’t get them into the
Freddie Laker Airways overhead without help.
and a Eurail pass, and
flew to London. It was I would not be the person I am – possibly
extraordinary to land there on my own not a writer at all – if it weren’t for my
at 18. I was isolated in ways that are hard travels. As a young person, I wandered all
Just back from… Next up… to envision now, and while that isolation over the place on my own, including the
PHOTOGRAPHY PIETER M VAN HATTEM
A short ski trip to We’re taking

was painful at times, I’ll never forget the former USSR: Tashkent, Samarkand,
Alta, about an a long-planned
sheer raw newness of everything I heard Bukhara. I feel grateful to have travelled at
hour’s drive from family trip to
Salt Lake City, Utah. the Arctic Circle:
and felt and saw. a time when the world was less connected.
I find that skiing ice fishing, Solitude, even alienation, have catalysed
clears my head cross-country I always like to connect to the history of most of my big discoveries. ●
and helps me to skiing, hunting a place. My husband and I had so many
maps and guidebooks on our honeymoon Jennifer Egan’s latest book is Manhattan
think and, perhaps for crabs, and Beach (Hachette Australia, pbk, $32.99).
more important, hopefully seeing in Turkey years ago that someone on She appears at the Sydney Writers’ Festival
to stop thinking. the northern lights. our boat asked if we were archaeologists. on 3, 5 and 6 May, swf.org.au
Jock Zonfrillo led Orana
to being named GT's
Restaurant of the Year; here
his take on thinking global
but cooking local gives us
fresh takes on roti with jerk
sauce and tarte Tatin.
A D EL A I D E
9 MAY
Jock
Zonfrillo
Electrolux 600mm 4-Burner
Gas on glass Cooktop, $999
(EHG643BA)
N AT I V E F L AVO U R W I T H
J OC K ZO N FRI LLO,
ORANA
Orana is Australia's top-rated restaurant, and its chef, Jock Zonfrillo, passionately believes that the best flavours in
Australia are Australian flavours. By incorporating these into our cooking at home, he says, we can afect great change
in our markets, our agriculture and our food. Get your taste of the revolution and spice up your next feast at home with
Jock's expert advice (and a little bit of Glasgow-accented cheek along the way) with the likes of roti with jerk sauce,
fire-pit fish with potato purée, eucalyptus and leeks, and his take on tarte Tatin.
2 CHEF
Jock Zonfrillo
THEME
L O C AT I O N
Harvey Norman,
750 Main North Rd,
DAT E & T I M E
Event 7pm,
Wednesday 9 May
T I C K E T S
$65 each
B O O K N OW
Gepps Cross, SA gourmetinstitute.
D E TAI L S Native flavour pleezpay.com
JA PA N E S E P I C N I C W I T H
CHASE KOJ I MA ,
K I YO M I
Chase Kojima is a busy man. If he's not scouring Sydney Fish Market for treasures to serve at the acclaimed
sushi counter at Sokyo or overseeing the city's most popular rice burgers at Gojima, he's bringing the magic to Kiyomi,
the Gold Coast's most celebrated Japanese eatery. But he likes to play as much as he likes to work, and he wants to
show that Japanese food is as suited to casual alfresco fun times as it is to big-city fi ne dining. Chase brings local flavour
to his picnic with tuna tartare and yuzu soy, his lamb chops with Vegemite miso sauce, and a Vegemite pickle roll.
Japanese aesthetics meet Miele 900mm Clean Steel

the Aussie love of the Pyrolytic Oven, $13,999
(H6890BP)
outdoors as Chase Kojima
packs a picnic with crab
and tuna tartare and lamb
chops with Vegemite
Chase
miso sauce.
Kojima
T H E M A S T E R O F I N N OVAT I O N
Enjoy Miele’s 90 litre capacity, 13 cooking functions, intuitive
touch display and wireless food probe for perfect results when
cooking meat, fish and bread, while 3 advanced pyrolytic
cleaning programmes take care of the mess
G O L D COA S T
6 JUNE
3 CHEF
Chase Kojima L O C AT I O N
Harvey Norman,
B29-45 Bundall Rd,
DAT E & T I M E
Pre-Event 6.15pm,
Event 7pm,
T I C K E T S
$65 each
B O O K N OW
THEME gourmetinstitute.
Bundall, Qld Wednesday 6 June
D E TAI L S Japanese picnic pleezpay.com
VISIT HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU/GOURMET-INSTITUTE FOR MORE DETAILS.

PRICES VALID FOR SYDNEY METROPOLITAN AREA. PRICES CAN VARY BETWEEN STATES DUE
TO ADDITIONAL FREIGHT COSTS. SEE IN STORE FOR FULL RANGE. HARVEY NORMAN® STORES
ARE OPERATED BY INDEPENDENT FRANCHISEES. ENDS 24/10/2018.
A GOURMET TRAVELLER PROMOTION
SWEET STEAM
The Smeg Black
Linear Touch
STEAM Screen Compact

Combi-Steam Oven
(top) and the Smeg
Touch Control
POWER Thermoseal Oven.
Ovens that combine conventional cooking and

steam function make light work of meals.
As the weather cools down, our craving for comfort food goes up, and
what could be more comforting than a steamed pudding? One of the
UW[\[QUXTMIVLZM_IZLQVOWN LM[[MZ\[Q\JMKWUM[UWZMM‫ٺ‬WZ\TM[[aM\
when cooked in a steam oven, such as the Smeg Black Linear Touch
Screen Compact Combi-Steam Oven. No clanking saucepan lid, no
UWVQ\WZQVO\PMXW\QVKI[MQ\JWQT[LZa·\PQ[W^MV\ISM[\PM[\ZM[[IVL
guesswork out of the equation. It combines conventional cooking with
[\MIUIVLQ[N]TTaXZWOZIUUIJTMITTW_QVOaW]\WZMTI`<PMV\PMZM¼[
the Smeg Touch Control Thermoseal Oven. Sharing its compact
KWUXIVQWV¼[\ZILMUIZS1\ITQIV[\aTMQ\[NWWTXZWWN ;UIZ\;MV[M8T][
function likewise takes the fuss out of meal preparation. Roast a chook
in one oven, steam the pudding in the other, and dinner is done.
C H O C O L AT E , R U M A N D R A I S I N ST E A M E D P U D D I N G
SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 2½ HOURS (PLUS STANDING)
100 ml dark rum time, beating well after each addition.

40 gm seedless raisins (see note) Sift in flour and baking powder, stir
150 gm caster sugar to combine, then stir in chocolate
125 gm butter, softened and rum-raisin mixture. Spoon
2 eggs into pudding bowl and cover with
125 gm plain flour a circle of buttered baking paper,
1 tsp baking powder then with a lid. Transfer pudding
60 gm dark chocolate (70% cocoa to steam oven and cook until top
solids), coarsely chopped is golden (2½ hours). Set aside to
CINNAMON CUSTARD cool for 5 minutes before serving.
6 egg yolks 3 Meanwhile, for cinnamon custard,
150 gm caster sugar whisk yolks and sugar in a large bowl
450 ml pouring cream until well combined (1-2 minutes). Bring
375 ml (1½ cups) milk cream, milk and cinnamon to a simmer
2 cinnamon quills, plus extra in a saucepan over medium heat, then
to serve add to egg yolks, whisking to combine.
Return to pan and stir continuously
until mixture coats the back of a spoon
1 Warm rum in a small saucepan (3-4 minutes). Strain into a jug, and
over medium heat, remove from heat, serve warm or refrigerate until required.
add raisins, cover and stand until 4 To serve, invert pudding onto a
raisins are plump (20 minutes). plate, finely grate cinnamon over the
2 Preheat steam oven to 100°C and top and serve with cinnamon custard.
butter and flour a 1.8-litre pudding Note Seedless raisins are available
bowl. Beat sugar and butter in an from select health-food shops.
electric mixer until pale and flufy If they’re unavailable,
(4-5 minutes). Add eggs one at a use regular raisins.
at winningappliances.com.au
Most wanted
2
SIMON JOHNSON
Made in France with butter and
fleur de sel, this melt-in-your-
mouth spread is just like the
centre of a Fantale: luscious
and sticky with a tofee-like
consistency and colour. We’ll be
piping it into pastry. $14.95 for
220gm. simonjohnson.com
1
CARAMELICIOUS
Do you believe in love at
first spoon? You will after
digging into this smooth and
velvety salted caramel. The
custard-like thickness and
matt finish make it a perfect
pie topper. Banofee away!
$10.50 for 280gm.
caramelicious.com.au
3
MISTY’S SALTED
CARAMEL
With the paper detail, colourful
string and handwritten labels,
Misty’s gooey caramel sauces
recall school fête stalls. The
rich, silky original sauce has
balanced salt and sweetness,
and the Vegan Coconut (left) is
exceptional. $14.95 for 375ml.
mistyssaltedcaramel.com.au
5
CICCONE & SONS
With a subtle bitterness, this
glossy dulce de leche sauce
from the Sydney gelateria is
liquid gold for ice-cream,
milkshakes and pretzels. It
combines cream with sugar
4
TASTE BYRON BAY
and condensed milk – so,
Taste’s dark Salted Caramel
for the traditionalists, BYO
Sauce is the most savoury and
sea salt. $12 for 250ml.
mellow of this bunch, with
WORDS MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR.
cicconeandsons.com.au
a well-rounded creamy flavour
that’s not overly sweet. Add
a spoonful to a roasting pan
STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN
with pork to make a good thing

even more indulgent. $15 for
285ml. tastebyronbay.com
FIVE OF A KIND
Salted caramel
Caramel and salt. Fine bedfellows if ever there were.
Add in a spoon or two and it’s our kind of party.
Béchamel Wooden
spoon from The
Essential Ingredient.
Butter dish from
Chuchu Ceramics. All
other props stylist’s
own. Stockists p168.
Making béchamel
A little know-how equals better lasagne,
caulilower-cheese and croques monsieur
this autumn. Chef and doyen of French
cooking JACQUES REYMOND shows
how to get that silky-smooth result.
Masterclass
T
his is not rocket science, but the details matter. A good
béchamel relies essentially on three ingredients: flour and The stages of roux
butter, which make a roux, and full-cream milk to make A roux is one of the standard thickening agents for sauces
the sauce. The quantity given here for the béchamel will in classic French cuisine. The flavour changes as you cook
be enough to use in a large lasagne, make a vegetable gratin, or coat out the roux, getting nuttier as the roux darkens. A white
enough witlof wrapped in ham to make a gratin for the whole family. It or blond roux should be cooked long enough to remove
makes an instant luxury of potatoes and, with cheese, turns lobster into the raw taste of the flour, but not to the point that it colours
mornay. To make a cheese sauce, allow the béchamel cool to 60 degrees significantly. A brown roux is cooked just to the point of a light
by letting it stand in the pan for about 10 minutes, then add 60 grams brown colour. It’s used to thicken demi-glace and espagnole
of grated hard cheese. I can say with experience that if you make it with sauces; add stock to it and it becomes a velouté.
Comté it will prove very difficult to resist eating it by the spoonful.
2
INTERVIEW LISA FEATHERBY. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD PREPARATION MAX ADEY
2 4
Step by step
1 To make the roux, melt
35gm cubed butter in a large
saucepan over medium heat
next, until a smooth sauce
forms (the mixture will thicken
a lot at first; stir vigorously and
a pinch of paprika, nutmeg or
ground ginger for a little extra
flavour if you desire.
A better béchamel
The better the milk and
and stir with a wooden spoon as you add more milk, the butter, the better the béchamel.
until it’s dark golden, with a
nutty scent.
mixture will loosen).
6 To serve, béchamel can
be used straight away or
Use butter with very little
water content, such as Lurpak.
I believe that a smooth sauce
2 Add 35gm plain flour (see

note) and stir continuously
4 Increase heat to medium,
season the béchamel to
taste and stir continuously,
transferred to a container,
covered closely with plastic
wrap to prevent a skin forming,
is best made with cold milk
mixed into a hot roux, or hot
milk mixed into a cold roux.
over low heat to cook out the making sure to stir into the and refrigerated until required,
For a thicker béchamel
flour until it’s a sandy colour and edges of the pan and across for up to a week. Reheat,
increase the butter and flour
smells biscuity (3 minutes). This the base to prevent the stirring gently, to serve.
up to 45gm each. ●
is known as a blond roux. béchamel from catching,
until sauce starts to boil. Note For a gluten-free
3 Gradually add 500ml cold

full-cream milk, stirring
continuously with a whisk or 5 Reduce heat to low and
then stir béchamel until
béchamel, replace plain flour
with 20gm potato starch and
15gm cornflour.
wooden spoon, incorporating a thick, smooth sauce forms
each addition well by stirring (5 minutes). Taste béchamel
out lumps before adding the and adjust seasoning, and add
Korean jangs 3. DOENJANG: FERMENTED BEAN PASTE
Doenjang, which resembles miso, is the fermented
soy bean paste left over from making soy sauce:
the solids at the base of the soy-sauce pot become
doenjang bean paste. Doenjang has a strong, pungent,
The fermented sauces called salty flavour that’s tangy and bitter raw – not unlike
Vegemite – but when added to dishes as a seasoning
jangs form the essential lavour it adds savoury richness with an aromatic backbeat.
of Korean cuisine. PAUL LEE, of Doenjang can also be made from black beans, and
is a key ingredient in many soups and stews.
Korean fine foods importer Table
181, gives us the lowdown.
2 3
1 4
2. GANJANG: SOY SAUCE
1. EOJANG: FISH SAUCE Traditional Korean soy, ganjang (gan means “to season”
Eojang, made from fermented and brined oily fish, in Korean) contains only soy beans, salt and water, and
is punchy and salty with a complex fish note. It’s made takes a minimum of eight months to make. The beans
with a single species, so there are mackerel eojangs, are boiled, crushed and dried, then after about a week,
anchovy eojangs alongside hundreds of other shaped into blocks bound with rice straw (the straw
varieties. The flavours vary but they’re all made in encourages mould growth), and left to ferment for two
basically the same way: fish are fermented whole, or three months. The resulting soy-bean bricks are then
packed with 25 per cent of their weight in salt and washed, brined and stored in onggi (Korean earthenware
left for 12 months. Flavours such as kombu, dried citrus crocks). The initial result is virgin soy sauce, which is
peel, shiitake and dried radish are then added, and clean, yet rich and, though unconventional, incredible with
it’s left for another two months. Eojang packs a fishy Iggy’s bread and butter. If aged, it becomes thicker, darker
punch used raw, but when it’s cooked it can cede the and more rounded. Double-brewing, meanwhile, sees the
foreground to other ingredients, boosting their flavour. previous year’s soy added to the new soy to brew further.
The explainer
5. CHO GANJANG: SOY-VINEGAR SAUCE The history of Korean cuisine

Cho ganjang is a common household sauce in Korea,
though each household will have their own version.
and indeed the Korean state
It goes very well with Korean pancakes, deep-fried itself has its roots in jangs
dishes, and meat, but it really comes into its own and fermented foods.
served with raw fish. To make it, dissolve 2 tbsp
caster sugar in 250ml virgin soy over gentle heat,
then add 1 tbsp rice vinegar and a pinch of sesame
seeds or ground pine nuts. The sugar doesn’t act as 6. YANGNYEOMJANG: SEASONING SAUCE
a sweetener here so much as a counterpoint to the Yangnyeomjang is the great all-rounder. It’s well-suited
salty taste of the soy. to congee, bibimbap, tofu dishes and noodles, and
also works in marinades or with banchan, Korean
side-dishes. As with cho ganjang, every household will
5
have their own recipe. To make it, combine 60ml virgin
soy with 2 tsp chopped garlic, 1 tbsp chopped spring
onion, 1 tbsp each finely chopped red and green chilli,
½ tsp sesame oil, 1 tsp sesame seeds and 2 tsp Korean
chilli powder. Season to taste with salt.
7
6
INTERVIEW AND STYLING LISA FEATHERBY. RECIPES IDYLLE LEE. PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY.
4. GOCHUJANG: CHILLI BEAN PASTE

Gochujang is a fermented chilli paste made
from glutinous rice, Korean chilli powder and
a little dried ground fermented soy bean
(ground from the same fermented bean
MERCHANDISING GERALDINE MUÑOZ. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN
bricks used in soy sauce). Gochujang has

a relatively mild heat – serve it with Korean
pancakes, deep-fried dishes or meat. It can
also form the base of other jangs, such as
cho-gochujang, a versatile vinegary sauce
made by combining gochujang with soy
sauce, sugar (or maesil-cheong, a sweet
7. SSÄMJANG: SPICY DIPPING SAUCE
plum extract), sesame oil and vinegar. This
Ssämjang is the jang commonly served with
sauce is great with raw fish and oysters and
bo ssäm, barbecued meat served with leaves
raw beef, or used as a salad dressing.
for wrapping. It’s made with a blend of roughly
equal parts doenjang and gochujang, with the
addition (among other things) of spring onion,
garlic, and sesame oil, all sweetened with grated
Korean pear or clear corn syrup. Apart from its
traditional pairing with bo ssäm, try it with
bulgogi or simply over vegetables. ●
Blushing beets
Cooked every which way, with the tops thrown in for
good measure, beetroot is a no-waste autumn favourite.
A
s autumn heralds the start of root vegetable
season, beetroot becomes a kitchen staple,
its earthiness adding heft and brightness
to dishes, be it raw, steamed, or roasted.
Raw, beetroot is best grated or sliced thinly and
tossed into salads – consider pairing it with proteins
such as eggs, yoghurt or chicken, or contrast its depth
with pear and a sprinkle of sumac. Whole grains will
add substance and texture, too.
Roasting might well be the best way to cook
beetroot, especially when it caramelises a little around
the edges. If you’d prefer to preserve its tenderness,
however, steam it, or add a little water to the roasting
pan and half-steam, half-roast it. For even less fuss,
throw it in skin-on, then peel later. And don’t forget
those leafy tops – they’re brilliant stir-fried or braised,
so don’t leave them behind.
Beetroot salad with barley

and hazelnut
SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS
// COOK 1 HR (PLUS COOLING)
Roasted beetroot keep well – consider making

a double batch to use in salads during the week.
RECIPES LISA FEATHERBY. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN

650 gm beetroot (about 3), 1 Preheat oven to 200°C.
peeled and halved Toss halved beetroot in 1 tbsp
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil oil in a roasting pan, season to
2 tbsp cider vinegar taste and add 60ml water. Cover
130 gm pearl barley tightly with foil and roast until tender
Thick natural yoghurt, to taste (45-55 minutes). Cool, then toss with
1 baby target beetroot (see note), half the vinegar and 1½ tbsp oil.
peeled and thinly sliced raw 2 Cook barley in a large saucepan
on a mandolin of boiling salted water until tender
½ small red onion, thinly sliced (20-25 minutes). Drain, then cool.
Coarsely chopped roasted Spread yoghurt on a platter to taste,
hazelnuts, to serve top with barley, roasted and raw
beetroot, onion, hazelnuts and
remaining vinegar and oil, season to
taste and serve.
Note Baby target, or pink beetroot, Beetroot Fork from
The DEA Store. All
is available from select greengrocers other props stylist’s
(you may need to order ahead). own. Stockists p168.
Eating clean
20 gm finely grated fresh coconut 1 Dry-roast coconut in a wok

Stir-fried beetroot leaves with or dried shredded coconut over high heat, stirring until golden
coconut and spices 1 tbsp coconut oil (2-4 minutes). Remove from wok.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS 1 bunch beetroot leaves with 2 For spice paste, dry-roast spices
stalks, stalks coarsely chopped until fragrant (15-20 seconds, see
Beetroot tops often fall by the wayside, Fish sauce (optional), to taste cook’s notes p168), then coarsely
but they have so much flavour
Steamed rice (optional) and lime crush with a mortar and pestle. Add
that it’s a shame to waste them.
wedges (optional), to serve remaining ingredients and pound
SPICE PASTE to a coarse paste.
1 tsp coriander seeds 3 Heat coconut oil in a wok over
½ tsp cumin seeds high heat, add spice paste and stir-fry
20 gm ginger (about 4cm), until fragrant and roasted (1 minute).
coarsely chopped Add beetroot stalks and stir-fry until
1 long red chilli, coarsely chopped starting to soften (3-4 minutes), then
1 small garlic clove add leaves and stir-fry until wilted
(1-2 minutes). Season with salt or fish
sauce, top with a little coconut and
serve with rice, lime to squeeze
over and remaining coconut. ●
As autumn heralds the start of the
root vegetable season, beetroot
becomes a kitchen staple.
Produce
you please get some basil? Then

it’s the spring hungry gap, the
farmer’s nightmare, when it’s
lettuce, sprouting broccoli,
asparagus and not a lot else,
and all but the most loyal local
eaters head out to buy imported
capsicums at the supermarket.
We growers are accustomed
to eating whatever is ready in
the garden, but much of the
community have put the seasonal-
eating cart before the horse –
recipe first, produce second.
What Beth and her gang and
Boxing days
many small-scale farmers and local
grocers are grappling with is the
need for what Beth calls a taste
revolution. Imagine, if you will,
Signing up to a vegie box delivery is in good taste, but it’s the a cherry tomato packed in a lunch
box every day, winter, spring,
follow-through that counts, writes PAULETTE WHITNEY. summer, autumn. It might have a
little tang, even smell faintly of
tomato, but the endless repetition
and availability makes it nothing.
I
t’s just like that U2 song: Hobart in less than an hour to Imagine instead that you’ve
“You say you want / Local catch a movie. Many are escapees joined Beth and her growers on
and organic / You say you from the Big Island, happy to have their rollercoaster. You’ve enjoyed
want / To support community landed in Tasmania for the food, the sweetest frost-kissed broccoli,
farmers / But all the promises you climate and community, and you’d and empathised with farmer Alex
made / Disappear when you want think that they’d be the perfect when hail pocked his snap peas –
baba ghanoush in winter / When target market for a vegie box maybe you even felt a little smug
all I want is you.” scheme. Or, move a little closer to when you ate them, knowing you
My mate Beth runs a vegie Hobart, and you have one of the were getting him through a hard
box scheme through our local fastest growing suburbs in the time and preventing food waste.
wholefoods store, where, with the country. Kingborough is swelling Because you bought those
click of a mouse, you subscribe with young, busy professional imperfect-perfect peas, Alex has
for a season of locally grown families all spending every spare a little extra cash so he can pay a
produce for your family. No moment in their activewear mate to help him glean salad
driving around to farm gates, no jogging on the dog beach... Surely greens for you in the hungry gap
sussing out good growers – Beth an effort-free, super-fresh box of – if cash was tight he might invest
and her team have tracked down healthy food would tick all of their his time more carefully and
the best of the best and will feed boxes, so to speak? then you’d have no salad until
ILLUSTRATIONS DAWN TAN & LAUREN HAIRE (PORTRAIT)
you admirably throughout the year. But, hang on, you want a “Much the flush of growth in spring
The subscription system gives holiday so you ask if you can skip of the made it more feasible to harvest.
growers certainty that they can your box this week. Oh, and community After all those months of greens
sell a particular crop, safe in the Marjorie over the back fence has have put the you get the first tomatoes of the
knowledge it will end up on too many zucchini so can you seasonal- season. You haven’t eaten one
someone’s dinner table. please have it left out of your box eating cart since last autumn.
The place Beth works is a – and your kids grew tomatoes so, Now, compare the sensation
before
tree-changer’s utopia. The folks please, leave those out too. of that first fragrant orb bursting
that live in the Channel region Imagine that multiplied by the horse against the roof of your mouth,
– a pretty stretch of little hamlets 80 sets of requests, demands, – recipe with the banal repetition of the
by the water – are lucky. They have breaks and substitutions. In winter first, everyday, out-of-season tomato
space to garden and enjoy some it’s better, but then you’re sick of produce and you’ll immediately appreciate
privacy, and yet they can scoot into kale, parsley and cauliflower, can second.” the value of a little patience. ●
Anatomy of a dish
Beef Wellington
Take roast beef to the next level MUSHROOMS
Mushrooms finely chopped
with this golden British classic. and sautéed with shallots,
garlic and thyme for a
duxelles and flavoured with
Madeira, Sherry or a dry
CRÊPE white, are a must. If you’re
T
ender beef swaddled in layers of Though it doesn’t appear in every using field mushrooms,
buttery pastry and pâté-enriched Wellington, a layer of crêpe helps consider adding some dried
mushrooms, this classic honours insulate the flaky pastry from the porcini or morels to boost the
either the gumboot (for the shape, juices of the meat and mushrooms. flavour. Cook the moisture
some argue), or the man that gave the boot its Some cooks like to gild the lily further, out well to keep the pastry
name, the first Duke of Wellington. It’s about substituting or adding a layer of ham. from getting soggy.
as British as it gets – at least as long as you
don’t compare it too closely to boeuf en croûte.
In any case, it’s the stuff that dinner-party PÂTÉ BEEF
dreams are made of. Or were in the seventies at Chicken liver pâté, mixed Fillet is the standby here; brown it well all
any rate. But it’s far too tasty, and creates too through the duxelles, brings over in a pan to add flavour, then, once
much impact at the table to consign it to the the richness and adds it’s cooled, smear it with a layer of Dijon
history books. Break out the silver candlesticks, another layer of flavour. mustard. Aim for it to come out of the
put on your puffiest toque and get into it. oven medium-rare. A probe thermometer
takes away the guesswork.
PASTRY
As with many savoury pastry
PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD PREPARATION MAX ADEY. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN
dishes, the outer layer was

once purely utilitarian – an
inedible mixture of flour, suet
and water, that, according to
The Oxford Companion to
Food, was simply a protective
casing. The rather tastier
buttery puf pastry is now
typically used to wrap the
beef, but some variants
deploy brioche dough.
The menu at Adelaide’s Mayflower Restaurant is rich

Find in nostalgia. The Wellington makes an appearance
one with a twist: puf pastry and prosciutto wrap a lamb
loin smothered with duxelles. Craving the classic?
Wednesday’s lunch-special Wellington is done with beef.
The new
that there were quite a few things going on at once in
that vat. But people really loved it when they tasted it.
So, for the next farmhouse ale we’re using chardonnay
yeast lees as the starter culture and adding local
rhubarb and strawberry late in the ferment. Oh,
breeds Brewers, winemakers and distillers are

and some fennel pollen.”
Hybrids like these aren’t a new thing, of course. In
fact, co-ferments were the most ancient drinks of all.
Analysis of residue of the oldest existing sample
of deliberately fermented alcohol in the world,
discovered on 9000-year-old pottery, revealed the
creating hybrid drinks that are pushing ingredients to be a blend of wild grapes, hawthorn
berries, rice, and honey.
the boundaries, writes MAX ALLEN. This tradition of co-ferments continued throughout
history, in the form of medieval drinks such as cyser
(a cider-mead hybrid made from apples and honey)
and braggot (beer-mead made from barley and honey).
Some of these old styles have also been revived in
recent times by local brewers: Adelaide Hills cider
T
hings are getting a bit weird out there in producer Lobo makes a cyser; Red Duck and Cavalier
booze land. You may have noticed. New breweries make braggots in Victoria.
drinks are appearing on wine lists and in This renewed interest in rainbow drinks isn’t just
bottle-shop fridges that are hard to classify happening in Australia.
or categorise. They’re not quite wine, not quite beer, A couple of months ago in London, visitors to the
not quite cider, not quite whisky. They’re the alcoholic RAW Wine fair – one of the best gatherings of natural
equivalent of mermaids or centaurs. Hybrids. Co- producers from around the world – were treated to a
ferments. Mash-ups. collection of hybrids: a liquid mix of apples, plums and
Australia’s brewers are leading the charge. Ever pinot noir from Sweden called Plumenian Rhapsody;
keen to come up with stranger and stranger flavour a pet-nat from the Loire made with apples and chenin
combinations, they’ve started collaborating with their blanc grapes; a “grapehouse ale” from the Veneto made
winemaker mates to ferment grape and grain together. by fermenting grape must and beer wort together. “We
Melbourne brewery La Sirène adds grenache grapes think,” said the organisers of the fair, “that these
to bubbling beer wort to make a hybrid ale, Vin Folie. cross-pollinated drinks… will be the next big thing.”
“I describe it as a ferment within a ferment,” says
brewer Costa Nikias. “We do lots of projects like this.
I’m an eternal tinkerer.” Nearby brewery 3 Ravens
uses a similar technique – with the juice of white
grapes – to make its lively Riesling Golden Sour ale;
Hop Nation Brewing Co. do something similar with N
T
O
CHEON CLARE
H S AU VI G N
Jamsheed’s wild-fermenting riesling for their Sturm

wine/beer. And Bridge Road Brewers in Beechworth
ferments the juice of locally grown chardonnay grapes
LIS
using Brettanomyces (considered a normal yeast by

N
TY
LU
brewer’s but a “spoilage yeast” by winemakers): the S

To p d r o p s o f t h e m o n t h
result is a funky, cloudy number, simply labelled

“Wine”, bottled in 330ml stubbies.
Chris and Gab Moore produce some of the 2015 Goulée by 2014 Geoff Weaver
Cos, Medoc, $99 Ferus, Adelaide
country’s most adventurous drinks at Sailors Grave
Delicious, ripe, supple, Hills, $45
Brewing in Orbost, east Gippsland. The ingredients
modern-style claret One of Australia’s
in their beers include sea salt, coffee beans and foraged made by one of the most underrated wine
wild flowers and weeds. One recent brew called Peach great chateaux, Cos styles is barrel-matured
Melba Pavlova, a cross between a sour beer and fruit d’Estournel. Already sauvignon blanc, and
wine, proved particularly popular over summer. incredibly approachable Ferus is a top example:
“Ah, that was a fun one,” says Chris. “We puréed and extremely enjoyable tangy and textural,
a heap of peaches and raspberries and bunged them now, and will cellar well. complex and citrusy.
in the last third of the ferment of the beer. This meant airoldifinewines.com.au geoffweaver.com.au
Drinks
“I love how we’ve

been freed up
as distillers to do The trend isn’t
new things. And limited to fermented
we’re dragging a drinks either;
whole lot of folks to distillers are also
getting in on the act.
look at beverages Nathan Williams
in a new way.” is a partner in Baker
Williams Distillery
in the central west NSW wine region of Mudgee. Last
year, he and partner Helen Baker released a limited
run of a spirit called Wildcard that, in essence, is a
hybrid of whisky and brandy.
“To be honest, it started as a bit of a balls-up,” says
Williams. “I’d distilled some wine to make eau de vie
and accidentally added in some newly distilled malt
spirit destined to become whisky. I thought, oh shit,
what are we going to do now? I was going to re-distil it
to make neutral spirit for our liqueurs, but I tasted the
blend and thought, actually, that’s pretty good.”
So, Williams filled a new Bourbon barrel with
this blended spirit and aged it for a year to see what
would happen. The result was so good – the perfume
of the grapes and the savoury quality of the grain
complemented by the sweetness of the oak cask – that
he bottled it. And the Wildcard was such a big hit
with the distillery’s customers that Williams has
repeated the exercise, this time filling more barrels
(it’s due for release in a year or so).
La Sirène founder “I love how we’ve been freed up as distillers to do
Costa Nikias with new things,” says Williams. “And we’re dragging a
La Sirène Vin Folie,
an ale co-fermented whole lot of folks to look at beverages in a new way.
with grenache grapes. We’re engaging with their minds; they’re not just
slugging it down.” ●
EB
NE
HE
ER
PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (MAIN) & RODNEY MACUJA (TOP DROPS).
H ITALIA N
LASSIC N
Y B U T FI
R WA R M
G R E N AC
OUD
N TE
WC
ICY
RIC
WI
SP
NE
CL
2017 Seppeltsfield 2016 Dal Zotto Wig & Pen Russian 2016 Luke 2015 Fantinel Tenuta
Grenache, Barossa Prosecco Col Fondo, Imperial Stout, Lambert Nebbiolo, Sant’Helena Ribolla
Valley, $25 King Valley, $27 Canberra, $40 Yarra Valley, $60 Gialla, Collio, $35
My pick of the three Undisgorged (“col fondo” A longtime winter favourite Be patient with this elegant The ribolla gialla grape
ILLUSTRATION LAUREN HAIRE
wines released under the means “with the lees”) this at Canberra’s much-loved nebbiolo and you’ll be thrives in Italy’s north-east,
revamped Seppeltsfield is attractively cloudy, with real ale house, this dark, rewarded. Give it plenty where it produces rich but
label, this is a lovely enticing yeasty smells rich and strong Imperial of air in a decanter and refreshing whites like this
example of the new-wave and a good creamy Stout is now available in big-bowled glassware and it one: lots of ripe yellow
Barossa grenache style: texture. Look, too, for the bottle. The next batch is reveals layer after layer of grape flavour but with
juicy, bright, spicy and just-released 2017 vintage. due in June. facebook.com/ entrancing subtle perfume. a crisp, savoury finish.
slurpy. seppeltsfield.com.au dalzotto.com.au wigandpen.canberra lukelambertwines.com.au atlanticwines.com.au
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Melbourne review
Prize
catch
It’s out with the French, in with the
fish as Bistro Vue reopens as Iki-Jime,
writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
T
he shadowy after-hours
aquarium vibe at Iki-Jime
seems appropriate for a
seafood restaurant. Even
the bar nuts, tossed with prawn-
shell powder and dried anchovies,
stick to the theme. This used to be
Bistro Vue, but the French theatrics
have been stripped away, replaced
by walls and ceilings painted
moody, inky blue-blacks, cloudy zinc
tabletops and pools of light and
dark into which indigo-uniformed
waiters appear and disappear.
The French accent has mostly
vanished from the menu too. It’s
all seafood now, aside from dessert
and three vegetarian side dishes,
with influences coming at you quality of its seafood alone. Owner
from every direction. Shannon Bennett is a long-time fan
Take the “prawn cocktail” of fisherman Mark Eather and has
(the inverted commas are theirs) used his fish at Vue de Monde for
consisting of five prawns arranged some time; Vue Group executive
on one side of a dark earthenware chef Justin James has put Eather’s
plate. Cooked in a court-bouillon, catch in the spotlight here.
dressed with wasabi vinaigrette, and Sustainability is also on
dusted with tomato powder and the menu, with a nose-to-tailfin
prawn powder, the prawns are approach that’s committed without
then topped with a crumble of being fanatical. Fish trim is used
cured duck egg yolk, lemon rind, in snacks on the bar menu in the
Top (from left):
finger lime and chives. It’s a clever form of skin (puffed, served with restaurant
remix, referencing the classic with barbecue-spiced prawn crackers)
PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA
manager David
a carefully calibrated play of fats, or cheeks (rich, fatty, served with Wilson, head
chef Sam Homan
acids and underlying heat. It makes butter lettuce and an eye-twitchingly
and executive
great prawns even better. tart finger lime vinaigrette) but the chef Justin
Iki-Jime excels at this kind fish used in the sausages, served in James. Right:
of big-flavoured, well-balanced brioche buns with a seaweed mayo “fish and chips”
of raw tuna
tap dance, though it would and a tarragon emulsion, is prime with fried potato
have attracted attention for the flesh, usually snapper. ➤ and leek.
Melbourne review
AND ALSO…
ARTS AND CRAFT

The obscure location and minimalist
room with a kaiseki-only menu served
at a 16-seat bar sets the authenticity
bells ringing at Ishizuka (above). Here,
chef Tomotaka Ishizuka (Koko, Kisumé)
Above: smoked
trout with deftly crafts 11 or so courses of mostly
crème fraîche, seafood and vegetable dishes. Bonito
salmon roe and and kombu broth, toro sushi, Mayura
fermented wagyu and green-tea noodles with
potato. Right:
mango, rum and
truffle might all be part of the changing
finger lime tart. procession. Finessed wine and sake
lists add another layer of pleasure.
Basement B01, 139 Bourke St, Melbourne,
The barramundi head on egg and smothered with salmon roe. (03) 8594 0895, ishizuka.com.au
the main menu makes another It’s accompanied by superb blin-like
fine argument for reconsidering pockets of fermented potato bread. ROCKSTAR STEAK
the scraps. Brined, glazed with a It’s the kind of dish you’d be happy With a name like Angus & Bon you
roasted-yeast and apple paste and ordering from breakfast to nightcap. Details might expect this steakhouse in the old
then deep-fried, it delivers layers There’s good drinking on Prahran post office to be rock ’n’ roll
raucous. And it is. The cavernous
of flavour, stacking sweet on fat the 56-page wine list that spends
Iki-Jime space has been cleverly carved up to
on umami. a lot of time in France, including
430 Little Collins include a central bar and a dining room
Part of the joy of eating here is three pages of Champagne. It full of booths bathed in the light of the
the gradual realisation that Iki-Jime comes across as more formal than St, Melbourne
(03) 9691 3838 kitchen’s char-grill. Former Rockpool
is less stitched up than it appears. the approach to the food, but Bar & Grill chef Declan Carroll presides
ikijime.com.au
The dramatic darkness, the there’s a cracking list by the glass over a meaty menu that makes room
Licensed
attentive well-groomed politeness that includes superb minerally Cards AE MC V EFT for grilled fish and vegetarian options.
of the staff and the stage-like amphibolite muscadet from Open A strong cocktail game and switched-
open kitchen trigger a fine-dining Domaine Landron and fine, Tue-Thu 11.30am- on service underline the good times.
response, but the food is playful, rich Alsace pinot blanc from 10.30pm, Fri-Sat Ride on. 168 Greville St, Prahran,
light, interesting and good looking. René Muré. 11.30am-11pm (03) 9533 9593, angusandbon.com.au
The Moreton Bay bug tart Desserts play it safe too. A Prices Entrées
places the lightly grilled bug on mango, rum and finger lime tart $10-$35, main A SLICE OF ITALY
a paste made from kelp dashi that’s takes the deconstructed path with courses $32-$64, Pietro Barbagallo (Kaprica) plays to all
desserts $16-$24 his strengths with Mr Pietro, the latest
been emulsified with butter and charred mango slices arranged like
Vegetarian in the series of no-nonsense joints
miso inside a shortcrust pastry a flower teamed with shards of
Three sides from one of Melbourne’s favourite
shell. Sweet bug meat, briny, salty rum-brushed brik pastry and a pizza sons. The menu is tight, and
dashi, plus lime zest and the dollop of lime curd. Chocolate Noise Low, like
the lighting includes pizza (try Asiago with Swiss
crunch of radish make the two mint and finger lime garnish. brown mushrooms), pasta (casarecce
Wheelchair
bites here particularly special. It’s fine, but suffers a little in with meatballs) and textbook cotoletta;
access Yes
“Fish and chips” (again with comparison to what precedes it. Minus No joy the wine list is well priced; and the
the inverted commas) sees raw tuna Iki-Jime is a great example of for vegos or classic cocktails great value. The room
dusted with pickle powder wrapped total restaurant reinvention. Out meat lovers is spartan yet welcoming – a model of
around fried potato and leek. with the French and in with the Plus Inventive Italo-Melbourne style in Little Italy.
Cold-smoked trout is teamed with fish. It’s timely, modern, sharp delicious take 50 Grattan St, Carlton, (03) 9349 2167
a bowl of crème fraîche mixed with all the essentials in place. on sustainable
with chives, dill and hard-boiled I can’t wait to go back. ● local seafood
Sydney review
Turn
of the
century Our waitress tells us that the dining room, perhaps in a nod
Can’t get into Fred’s? The new
Merivale group, which hoovered to the greater life-experience of its
Hotel Centennial keeps it in the up the Centennial in its latest customers, it’s Christine Keeler,
family, writes PAT NOURSE. hotel-buying spree, picked up the snapped astride an Arne Jacobsen
keys on a Tuesday last December chair by photographer Lewis
and then opened the doors on Morley in the contact-sheet from
the Wednesday. The pub was the famous 1960s photo shoot.
refurbished only a couple of years Simple Mediterranean elegance
ago by its previous owners, the is the theme on Greeno and
F
red’s Lite? Taking quick Medich family, and that look is still Alvarez’s menu, and the kitchen,
stock of the demographic largely intact, gleaming and airy. under chef James Evangelinos,
across the big, buzzy The interiors bear a closer executes their ideas with consistent
open dining room, it’s resemblance to a homewares proficiency. That could mean squid,
almost tempting to dub the new showroom than most pubs. It charry and perfectly tender from
incarnation of this landmark glam doesn’t even smell like beer, the air the wood-fired oven, served with
gastropub Fred’s Grey Label: hung instead with a hint of Chanel yolk-bright aïoli and sweet tomatoes,
cashed-up Woollahra-ites are Clockwise
No 5 and a rustle of money. In the exemplar of just three things
here in force, crisply ironed and from top left: place of the Reschs posters and on a plate all done as well as they
swaddled in cashmere and linen. chefs Danielle pictures of comely horses you might can be. Or it could be a pile of
PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW
Alvarez, James
And since Danielle Alvarez and find in other Eastern suburbs Coffin Bay clams, sweet with
Evangelinos and
Ben Greeno, the wunderkinds Ben Greeno; boozers you’ll find photographic fennel and chilli, plated with slices
behind the food of restaurant-of- wood-fired portraits, mostly of comely young of grilled bread spread thickly with
the-moment Fred’s, took over the squid with aïoli women. In the public bar, Scarlett a bright rouille. The wood-fired
and cherry
menu late last year, there’s been tomatoes; the Johansson pouts above the plush oven also does flounder plenty of
substance to match the style. dining room bar. lounges and baby grand. In the favours. It comes to the table with ➤
Sydney review
Clockwise from right: the

dining room; chocolate AND ALSO…
tart and pistachio sorbet;
whole flounder with
seaweed salsa verde.
NO AVERAGE JOE
It might be a challenge to eat one
of their sandwiches in public, so
generous are the toppings, but that
hasn’t stopped Joe’s Sandwich Bar
quietly becoming one of the CBD’s
top sandwich haunts. Highlights of
the all-vegan menu include a BLAT
made convincingly with smoked
tempeh, and a coconut and greens
number rich in pickles (above). The
secret? Iggy’s bread. B1/153 Clarence
St (entry is on the other side of the
block, opposite 321 Kent St), Sydney
REY THE KING

It turns out that the “roadies”, the
a hot, juicy lemon and pot of Alvarez and Greeno have Bang Bangladeshi team’s take on roti
salsa verde. The sauce, rich with given the old dessert menu a nod Details kebabs offered at their Trunk Road
capers and tarragon, is spiked with by retaining the waffles, serving spin-off, proved too resistible to
seaweed, an inspired complement them with banana-caramel sauce, sustain the business. Now the Crown
to the carefully roasted fish. Winner. whipped cream and vanilla Hotel Centennial Street site is home to Rey’s Place,
The service might not quite ice-cream. If you’d prefer grown-up 88 Oxford St, which trades in Filipino food upstairs
Woollahra, and a “ridiculously cool” dug-out bar
match the personable ease on the food, consider the nectarine,
(02) 9114 7349, below. Adobo becomes mousse
floor at Fred’s, but it’s well-drilled roasted whole in the wood-fired
merivale.com stuffed into fried chicken wings,
and professional, and the big room oven, served with ice-cream, a little kinilaw gets paired with coconut
Licensed
ticks over nicely. Likewise, it might almond crunch and a splash of olive Cards AE MC V EFT quinoa, and ube does its purple-yam
be a bit much to expect the wine oil. The chocolate tart is interesting, Open Lunch thing in parfait at dessert. 163 Crown
offer to match the dazzling cellar too. It comprises a rubble of daily noon-3pm; St, Darlinghurst, (02) 9361 5938
at Fred’s, but it’s more than chocolate brown-butter crumbs dinner Mon-Thu
serviceable. You want Sancerre, set on caramelised ganache in a 6pm-10.30pm, Fri-Sat TASTE OF SICHUAN
Pouilly-Fumé and white Bordeaux shell of fine chocolate shortcrust 5.30pm-10.30pm, The city shows exactly no signs of
to enliven your sauvignon and topped for good measure Sun 5.30pm-9pm tiring of Sichuan hotpot or noodles.
blanc habit? Here’s five bottles. with roasted-pistachio sorbet. Prices Entrées Not if the relentless pace of openings
PHOTOGRAPHY HELLENE ALGIE (JOE’S SANDWICH BAR)
Bourgogne by the glass? Why don’t Is the Hotel Centennial going $24-$28, main is any guide, anyway. Among them
we pour that from the magnum? to set your world on fire? Possibly courses $36-$48, in the CBD Yu Xiang Taste is
Rock oysters, charcuterie, not, but it does what it does with desserts $15-$17. notable partly for being north of
Noise Noisy Goulburn Street (it’s opposite the
grilled fish, a witlof and chickpea consistent attention to detail,
Wheelchair George Street cinemas), but mostly
salad, a burger and more are creating a smooth and comfortable
access No for offering a little more variety
available in the bar, complemented experience littered with just enough alongside the pig intestine, duck
Minus Not as
by the range of flatbreads – minced moments of inspiration to keep it polished as blood, meatball and mushroom
lamb and merguez sausage with a cut above. If you’re looking for Fred’s, but priced standards. Be sure to consider the
pickled chilli and yoghurt, say, somewhere new to take your more almost as high heavily spiced “sizzling-plate” bean
or tomato, herbs and Parmigiano. mature Tinder dates, or simply Plus Another place curd. Shop 5, 614-624 George St,
The version topped with kale a nice place to deplete the kids’ to enjoy Danielle Sydney, (02) 9262 7717
leaves and fennel is crisp on the inheritance over a Chablis-fuelled Alvarez and Ben
edges, with a chilli-oil warmth. lunch, you could do far worse. ● Greeno’s cooking
The Strangers’ Restaurant is located within NSW Parliament House,
Australia’s first and oldest Parliament.
The restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows providing panoramic views of
Sydney’s lush Domain.
OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday from
Historically exclusive to Members of Parliament and vising dignitaries, the restaurant
12 noon on non-sing days
is now open to the public for lunch on selected dates. The Strangers’ Restaurant
is perfect for a business lunch or special occasion in an iconic locaon. A tradional BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL.
high tea is also offered on Fridays. For bookings please email us at
Tradionally, the Strangers’ Restaurant brings together members of the public and dps.catering@parliament.nsw.gov.au
their representaves for discussion. Thus making them no longer strangers. Or call 02 9230 2924
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M AY
QUICK
MEALS
Recipes MAX ADEY Photography NIC GOSSAGE Styling LISA FEATHERBY
Merchandising ROSIE MEEHAN
Orange, chickpea and

crisp-skinned duck
salad with mint
p 62
Braised pork and fennel sausages
with lentils and rosemary SERVES 4
Consider swapping the bread for parmesan-rich Fried chicken burger with smoky
polenta or mashed potato to make this more of a
meal or add a salad of bitter leaves to keep it lighter.
mayo, cos and pickles SERVES 4
Fried chicken, soft bread, pickles, crisp lettuce and smoky, garlicky
250 gm small green lentils, 1 Cook lentils in a large mayo. A simple combination that yields outstanding results.
rinsed saucepan of boiling water until
10 thick pork and fennel tender (18-20 minutes), drain 4 skinless chicken thigh fillets paprika in a small bowl, season
sausages well and set aside. 250 ml (1 cup) well-shaken to taste and chill until needed.
1 tbsp olive oil 2 Meanwhile, remove casing buttermilk Combine flour, onion powder,
2 celery stalks, finely from 2 sausages and coarsely 150 gm Japanese mayonnaise baking powder and remaining
chopped crumble. Prick remaining (see note) paprika in a bowl and season
1 onion, finely chopped sausages with a fork. Heat ½ garlic clove, finely grated to taste.
1 carrot, finely chopped oil in a large casserole over 3 tsp smoked paprika 3 Heat 2cm oil to 180°C in
3 garlic cloves, finely medium-high heat, brown whole 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour a large deep saucepan. Drain
chopped sausages all over (3-4 minutes), 2 tsp onion powder chicken, then dust heavily in
3 tsp finely chopped then transfer to a plate. Add 2 tsp baking powder flour mixture, shaking of excess.
rosemary crumbled sausage to pan and Vegetable oil, for Deep-fry, turning occasionally,
125 ml dry red wine cook, stirring and breaking up shallow-frying until golden and cooked through
400 gm canned cherry tomatoes slightly, until well browned 4 soft burger buns, halved (4-6 minutes; be careful, hot oil
Crusty bread (optional), (3-5 minutes). Add celery, onion, Baby cos lettuce leaves and may spit). Remove with a slotted
to serve carrot, garlic and rosemary, bread-and-butter pickles, spoon and transfer to a wire rack
season to taste and cook until to serve over an oven tray to drain briefly.
softened (5-6 minutes). Deglaze 4 Spread mayonnaise on
with wine and reduce by half 1 Combine chicken and bases of rolls and top with
(1-2 minutes), return sausages buttermilk in a bowl, tossing cos, chicken, more mayonnaise
to pan, add tomatoes and braise to coat, then season with salt and pickles. Sandwich with
until sausages are just cooked and set aside to marinate for tops and serve.
(3-4 minutes). Remove from 10 minutes. Note Japanese mayonnaise
heat and stir in lentils. Season 2 Meanwhile, combine is available from Asian grocers
to taste and serve with bread. mayonnaise, garlic and 1 tsp and select supermarkets.
Quick meals
Tagliatelle Bowl (centre) and marble

board from The DEA Store. All other
props stylist’s own. Stockists p168.
Sausages All props stylist’s own.
Chicken burger All props stylist’s own.
1 Preheat the oven grill to high. stir to coarsely break up

Tagliatelle with Toss pumpkin and 1 tbsp olive the pumpkin and form a
pumpkin, pancetta, oil in a bowl, spread out on a thick sauce.
chilli and sage SERVES 4 lightly greased oven tray and 3 Meanwhile, cook pasta
grill, turning occasionally, until in a large saucepan of boiling
Tortelli di zucca, just without the
softened and starting to char salted water until al dente
tortelli. This take uses tagliatelle and
(8-10 minutes). (7-8 minutes). Drain, reserving
adds pancetta and chilli for punch.
2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp 125ml pasta water. Return
olive oil in a large frying pumpkin mixture to medium
500 gm (about ½) butternut pan over medium heat. Add heat, add reserved pasta water
pumpkin, cut into 2cm pieces pancetta and sage, and fry, and stir to combine, then add
80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil stirring occasionally, until fat pasta, remaining roasted
150 gm mild pancetta, coarsely has rendered and pancetta pumpkin, pancetta and sage
chopped is crisp (6-8 minutes), then and toss to combine and heat
1 cup (loosely packed) sage drain on paper towels. Return through. Divide pasta among
4 garlic cloves, bruised pan to medium-high heat, bowls and serve topped with
1 tsp dried chilli flakes add remaining oil, then add extra parmesan. ➤
60 gm (¼ cup) mascarpone garlic and chilli, season to
30 gm finely grated parmesan, taste and stir until fragrant
plus extra to serve (1-2 minutes). Remove from
500 gm dried tagliatelle the heat, add mascarpone,
parmesan and half the roasted
pumpkin, season to taste and
Quick meals
Greek lamb chops with braised

silverbeet, feta and oregano SERVES 4
Braised silverbeet matches well with the richness of lamb
here, while sweet currants help balance the feta and lemon.
Kale or ruby chard are nice alternatives to silverbeet, too.
80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil, currants, and simmer to reduce

plus extra for drizzling by half (1-2 minutes). Add
3 tsp dried oregano or rigani silverbeet leaves, cover with
(Greek oregano; see note) a lid and cook until just wilted
6 garlic cloves, finely grated (1-2 minutes). Remove from
8 lamb loin chops (about heat, season to taste and keep
100gm each) warm. Wipe pan clean.
1½ bunches silverbeet, stalks 3 Heat the same pan over
thinly sliced, leaves torn medium-high heat, drizzle
1 tsp fennel seeds lamb with olive oil, season
125 ml white wine to taste, then add to pan and
40 gm (¼ cup) currants cook, turning once, until well
Lemon wedges and feta, browned and cooked to your
to serve liking (2-3 minutes each side
for medium-rare). Set aside
1 Combine oil, 2 tsp dried loosely covered with foil to rest
oregano and half the garlic (5 minutes). Serve lamb with
in a large bowl, add lamb, lemon wedges and braised
toss to coat, and marinate silverbeet topped with feta.
for 10 minutes. Note Rigani, dried wild Greek
2 Meanwhile, heat a large oregano, is available from select
non-stick frying pan over delicatessens. If using rigani you
medium heat, add silverbeet can add a little more than you
stalks, fennel seeds and would dried oregano.
remaining oregano and garlic,
stir to combine, then increase
heat to high, add wine and
Lamb Mud Australia

bowl (with feta) from
The Essential Ingredient.
All other props stylist’s
own. Cauliflower curry
Small bowl from The
DEA Store. Mukumono
bowl (with curry) from
Koskela. All other
props stylist’s own.
Stockists p168.
Caulilower curry with lime 1 cauliflower (about 1.5kg), 1 Preheat the oven grill to high.
cut into 3cm florets Toss cauliflower with half the
and coriander SERVES 4 75 gm ghee, melted ghee in a bowl, season to taste,
Brown the cauliflower thoroughly at the start here – it’s ½ cup (loosely packed) spread out on a lightly greased
a simple way to give this vegetarian curry some more fresh curry leaves oven tray and grill, turning
character and greater depth of flavour. Then to add some 1 onion, finely chopped occasionally, until golden and
more body, try replacing the water with coconut milk. 4 garlic cloves, finely slightly charred (8-10 minutes).
chopped 2 Meanwhile, heat remaining
4 long green chillies, ghee in a large frying pan over
thinly sliced medium-high heat. Add curry
30 gm ginger, finely grated leaves, onion, garlic, chilli and
1 tsp ground coriander ginger, season to taste, and
1 tsp ground turmeric stir occasionally until softened
Brown the cauliflower 1 tsp garam masala and golden (5-7 minutes).
thoroughly before adding 400 gm canned cherry tomatoes Add spices, stir until fragrant
it to the curry – it’ll Steamed basmati rice and (1 minute), then add tomatoes
coarsely chopped red onion and 400ml water and simmer
give this dish greater tossed in lime juice, to serve until slightly reduced and
depth of flavour. Lime wedges and Greek- flavours develop (6-8 minutes).
● style yoghurt, to serve Add cauliflower and stir until
heated through (1-2 minutes),
season to taste and serve with
rice, red onion, lime wedges
and yoghurt. ➤
Snapper with broccolini
and nori-miso butter SERVES 4
Orange, chickpea and crisp-skinned Miso butter is good, but miso butter with roasted nori, sesame and
duck salad with mint SERVES 4 ginger is better. It works wonders with pan-fried snapper here, but
serve it with any kind of fish, or on steak or roasted vegetables.
Rendering the duck fat over low heat is the best way to ensure
crisp skin; just let it happen slowly while you prepare the rest
of the meal. If you’re after something a little more substantial, 525 gm (3 bunches) broccolini, a food processor. Process until
roasted carrots will add more heft to the salad. trimmed finely chopped (1-2 minutes),
2 tsp sesame oil then combine with remaining
4 duck breasts (about is golden and crisp (15 minutes). 4 pink snapper fillets ingredients in a small saucepan
220gm each), skin scored Remove from pan, increase (about 180gm each), over low heat and heat gently
4 oranges, segmented and heat to high, then return duck skin on, pin-boned to melt butter. Keep warm.
juice reserved, plus orange to pan flesh side-down and Grapeseed or other 2 Cook broccolini in a large
wedges to serve cook until golden and medium- neutral-flavoured oil, saucepan of boiling salted
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil rare (2-3 minutes). Transfer to for drizzling water until tender (2-3 minutes).
½ garlic clove, finely grated a plate, cover loosely with foil 1 spring onion, cut into Drain, toss with sesame oil and
1 tbsp red wine vinegar and rest for 5 minutes. Deglaze julienne season to taste.
Juice of ½ lemon pan with reserved orange juice Lemon wedges, to serve 3 Heat a large non-stick frying
½ red onion, thinly sliced (about 100ml) and simmer until NORI-MISO BUTTER pan over medium-high heat. Pat
½ radicchio, coarsely torn reduced by half (1-2 minutes), 2 nori sheets snapper dry with paper towels,
600 gm canned chickpeas, then whisk in oil, garlic, vinegar 2 tbsp roasted sesame seeds then drizzle with grapeseed oil
drained and rinsed and lemon juice and season 150 gm unsalted butter, softened and season to taste. Add to pan
1 cup (loosely packed) mint to taste. 30 gm shiro (white) miso paste skin side-down, top with a piece
Thinly sliced red birdseye 3 Thickly slice duck breasts and 2 tsp finely grated ginger of baking paper, weight with a
chilli (optional), to serve add to a large bowl with orange Finely grated rind heavy pan, and fry until skin is
segments, onion, radicchio, of 1 lemon crisp (2 minutes). Turn over and
1 Heat a large non-stick chickpeas and mint. Drizzle with fry until snapper is just cooked
frying pan over high heat. Add a little orange dressing, season 1 For nori-miso butter, gently through (1-2 minutes). Divide
duck breasts skin-side down, to taste, toss to combine and toast nori sheets over an open broccolini and snapper among
immediately reduce heat to low serve with chilli, orange wedges flame until crisp (5-10 seconds). plates, spoon over nori-miso
and cook, draining rendered and extra dressing. Cool briefly (1-2 minutes), then butter, top with spring onion
fat every few minutes, until skin tear into pieces and transfer to and serve with lemon wedges.
Quick meals
Bananas with caramel

Plate (top of stack) from
Pan-fried bananas with The DEA Store. Plate
(bottom of stack)
salted maple caramel and from Woo Ceramics.
All other props stylist’s
vanilla ice-cream SERVES 4 own. Stockists p168.
Duck salad All props
This dessert of nut-brown bananas and no-fuss stylist’s own. Snapper
salted caramel has any sweet cravings sorted. All props stylist’s own.
Better yet, it’s all made in the one pan.
80 gm butter
4 slightly underripe bananas,
halved lengthways
60 ml (¼ cup) maple syrup
20 ml whiskey
50 ml thickened cream
Vanilla ice-cream and
coarsely chopped salted
roasted peanuts, to serve
1 Melt 60gm butter in a large,

deep frying pan over medium-
high heat. In batches, add
bananas, cut-side down,
and pan-fry, turning once,
until golden (1-2 minutes
each side). Remove from
pan and wipe pan clean.
2 Simmer maple syrup in the
same pan over medium-high
heat until caramelised
(2-3 minutes). Remove from
heat, swirl in 20gm butter
and ½ tsp sea salt, then add
whiskey and cream and swirl
to combine (be careful, hot
caramel may spit). Add bananas
and return to heat to warm
through, then serve topped with
vanilla ice-cream and peanuts. ●
Australian
MADE
Take inspiration from your own backyard with Harvey Norman’s range of high
quality, Australian-made furniture tailored to our landscape – and your style.
Australian-made
Ezio dining chair in
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$329each
Australian-made
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stain ‘Cocoa’^
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CUSTOMISE IT LIKE THE PROS

STAIN UPHOLSTERY SIZE Stain, upholstery and size. I love an earthy colour palette with beautiful muted
tones and these come together perfectly in this room. Inspired by the Australian Aurora quilted grey cushion
CUSTOMISE IT
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desert at dusk, we chose the ‘Broadway’ lounge in a customised fabric of soft, medium beige rug $799.
millennial pink, contrasted with a compact dining table in a bespoke dark timber (Additional items are
stain. We added metallic touches for a resolved look that’s modern yet timeless. stylist’s own.)
Beauty rich + rare...
Sandy Dao
“ D R A W I N S P I R AT I O N F R O M T H E W A R M T H O F T H E D E S E R T
AT D U S K W I T H A S O F T, E A R T H Y PA L E T T E , L AY E R E D W I T H
C O N T E M P O R A R Y S H A P E S , B E S P O K E W O O D S TA I N S A N D
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in timber stain ‘Cocoa’^
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“ T H E A U S T R A L I A N C O A S T I S A C O N S TA N T S O U R C E O F I N T E R I O R S
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Herringbone 60cm lamp table
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sofa in ‘Devon Shark’^
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C U STO M CA N VA S Visit harveynormanphotos.com.au to browse our wide
range of sizes to suit any photo and space.
Australian-made
Brandon 250cm rectangular
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stain ‘Smoke’^
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Australian-made
Ferro dining chair in
‘Lindeman Pepper’^
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STAIN UPHOLSTERY SIZE Stain, upholstery and size. With such a large, open space our décor choices
could be bold here, so we opted for classic shapes in larger custom sizing for
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like our exp ert s
both the lounge and dining table, with bespoke timber stains to add warmth and
neutral textured upholstery to complement. To elevate the look we used graphic
prints and pops of bold colour for a fresh take on a luxurious tropical interior look.
Lucy McCabe
INTERIOR DESIGN EDITOR
BELLE
“GRAPHIC PRINTS AND POPS OF LUSH

F O L I A G E E L E V AT E A B O L D M O N O C H R O M AT I C
PA L E T T E O F B L A C K A N D W H I T E . C U S T O M I S E
T E X T U R E S A N D S TA I N S F O R A F R E S H
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Australian-made
Calvin 3-seater sofa in
‘Frontier Pew ter’^
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Brandon 150cm coffee table
in timber stain ‘Smoke’^
$1,199
Hutch cushion black 43x43cm $29.95 each. Diversity cushion ‘Black’

45x45cm $34.95. Kew cushion in ‘Magnet’ $39.95. Winter fell throw in
‘Charcoal’ $99.95. Squire cross hatch print 115x85cm $429. JH Divine
medium ‘Brindle’ rug $999. (Additional items are stylist’s own.)
Australian-made
Brandon 4 -drawer
tallboy in ‘Smoke’^
$2,099
Australian-made
Brandon 2-drawer
bedside table
in ‘Smoke’^
$949
Australian-made
Revenge Bedroom Chair
upholstered in ‘Warwick
Mystere Blush Velvet’^
$1,099

STAIN UPHOLSTERY SIZE Stain, upholstery and size. I loved the idea of bringing the fresh-aired
mountain feeling to the city, so beautiful timber pieces were a must here.
CUSTOMISE IT
like our exp ert s
The bespoke dark wood stains we chose contrasted beautifully with the pop
of colour in our accent chair, which we customised in a rich pink velvet. The look
was completed with original art prints in tonal hues to enhance the lush palette.
Sapphire misted mountains...
“ B R I N G T H AT F R E S H - A I R E D M O U N TA I N F E E L I N G T O I N N E R - C I T Y L I V I N G B Y
C O N T R A S T I N G N AT U R A L W O O D S W I T H O R I G I N A L A R T P R I N T S , A N D A C C E N T
Li z Elton
P I E C E S I N R I C H , B E S P O K E T O N E S A N D TA C T I L E T E X T U R E S .” ¯ L i z
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
GOURMET TRAVELLER
Australian-made
‘Brandon’ 2-drawer queen
bed in ‘Smoke’ and Warwick
‘Lindeman Pepper’^
$2,949
Hatch throw black 130x160cm

$34.95. Sugar Bush I Framed
Canvas Print $299. Manning
copper bedside lamps $159
each. JH Divine medium ‘Ivory
Silver’ rug $999. Anya queen
quilt cover set in ‘Nude’ $199.
Hutch cushion black 43x43cm
$29.95. (Additional items are
stylist’s own.)
SHOP AT YOUR LOCAL STORE, ONLINE AT HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278
Furniture prices displayed are valid in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne metropolitan areas only.
Prices in other areas will be higher due to additional freight charges. See in store for full range.
Âvailable in store only. Harvey Norman® stores are operated by independent franchisees. Ends 23/05/18.
Break
it
Chef, restaurateur
and now fishmonger
– Josh Niland, of Saint
Peter restaurant
in Sydney, has
reimagined the
humble fish shop.
Here’s a day in the
life of his new Fish
Butchery, where
the catch of the
day is anything
but ordinary.
Photography WILL HORNER

“Retailing fish has always followed a similar formula.
The challenge for my wife Julie and I to reimagine it
was exciting. When you walk into Fish Butchery it feels
luxurious. The ofering changes every day, maybe
more than once. We have cabinets to hold oysters
at between 11 and 13 degrees, and we have fish
INTERVIEW MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD
hanging in static refrigeration in the front window.

The glass cabinet has just one of everything we’re
selling on display. No great piles of flathead or garfish
on ice losing their freshness. It’s a boutique space
showing of less commonly used fish, preparations
and techniques, but still with great diversity in price.”
“Fish Butchery will make Saint Peter better and more
eicient. We can train more people and I can share
as much knowledge as I can. Although the Butchery
is a beautiful space, I don’t want it to be uptight. The
marble prep bench is a buzzy hive of activity. The
refrigerated drawers underneath hold everything
from tommy ruf, which we can butterfly or crumb
to order, to spanner crabs that we can pick apart so
everything’s ready to go. One day, the King George
whiting will be the best thing you’ll ever have so we’ll
suggest that, and the next it might be Mooloolaba
broadbill on the bone or leatherjacket.” ➤
“A lot of the time, chefs (like me) bang on about ‘stop
buying this or that fish and try giving this one a crack,’
but there’s not enough information out there for home
cooks. We want people to have good experiences
with fish they purchase, so we share recipe cards and
instructions and talk about methods of cookery
for diferent species, proper storage and preparation.
Not everybody knows that you really shouldn’t poach
a piece of blue mackerel (it dries out and goes chalky)
or pan-fry a red gurnard (you can, but it behaves
better in batter or a crumb). These are the little things
that we’ve been trained to do. And we want to share.”
“Everything at Fish Butchery is handled
dry and stored at the right temperature.
It’s the way we handle fish at Saint Peter.
You might walk past and see a beautiful
Spanish mackerel hanging in the front
window; we’ll take it out and cut
a portion exactly how you want it,
whether it’s 500 grams or a kilo, on or
of the bone. The way we store it means
the flavour will be better and it’ll be
easier for you to get the skin crisp. Our
goal here is quite simple: we just want
people to have better experiences
with fish. That’s the bottom line.” ●
Fish Butchery, 388 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW,

(02) 8068 0312, fishbutchery.com.au
expectations
Great
All her life KATE REID dreamed

of a career in Formula One. When
reality didn’t live up to the dream,
anorexia took over. It was baking,
says the Lune Croissanterie founder,
that put her on the path to recovery.
At first everyone told me how fabulous
I was looking, which increased the
incentive. Those comments soon turned
to “you’re looking a bit thin”, and “are
you okay?” I was fine, never better! I was
in control of my body, dropping from a
size 10 to an 8, and then suddenly I was
fitting into a 6! My food knowledge was
growing too. I’d spend hours planning
what to cook for dinner: researching
F
rom a young age I had recipes, new ingredients, and associated
my entire life planned calories. The first thing to stop was eating
out: a predetermined out at restaurants, then at friends’ houses.
university degree in How could I trust the food anyone was
aerospace engineering, preparing for me? Eventually, I wouldn’t
followed by an inevitable move to the even let my boyfriend cook for me. I
United Kingdom, with the ambition to exclusively ate food that I’d prepared.
be the first female technical director of Ironically, baking brought me
a Formula One team. By the time I was the most pleasure during this time.
offered my first role as aerodynamicist Obsessively following recipes, I’d bake in
at Williams F1, I’d been working the evenings for my colleagues, then watch
toward this goal with single-minded them relish my latest creation. Inwardly,
determination for a decade. I revelled in the incredible willpower
High expectations are dangerous. required to resist joining them, and lived
Where I’d imagined a creative, vicariously through their enjoyment.
collaborative environment, the reality Anorexia well and truly has you
was long days in front of a computer long before you know you have it.
with minimal human interaction, My attention span shortened,
churning out designs with multiple drastically. The mood swings were
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN AND JESSICA REFTEL EVANS & MARTIN REFTEL (PORTRAIT AT LUNE)
variations. Directives, not moments extreme. The quality of my work

of brilliance. Eighteen months in and slipped. My social life dwindled and
I hated my job. A rather unexpected my relationship started to fray at the
predicament. The subtle signs of edges. But I was determined to keep
depression set in. Maybe designing that number on the scales going down.
Formula One cars actually wasn’t for me. I started to lie about what I was eating.
Dissatisfied and unhappy at work, The lunches my boyfriend packed for
struggling through the grey English me were thrown in the bin at work,
winter and missing home, I joined a gym when no one was watching.
in the hope of making some new friends.
B
It became my safe haven and I started to reaking point came after a long
exercise a lot. Regular assessments at weekend of 20-hour days at the
the gym included weight tracking, as Spanish Grand Prix. The small
well as being “educated” on nutrition amount of rational thought I
and calorie burning. It didn’t take had remaining told me that I wasn’t
long for me to recognise that this was coping and it was time to come home.
a numbers game, and I started to play In May 2008 I arrived back in
it. Although I’d never been overweight Melbourne and was formally diagnosed
or unhealthy, there was something with anorexia nervosa. Knowing very
deeply satisfying about watching the little about the disease, those close to ➤
number on the scales decrease. I started
a spreadsheet where, daily, I’d record my
weight, exercise and food intake. It was
so controllable and had tangible results.
And it was addictive.
me believed my homecoming represented Much later, Mary revealed to me
the beginnings of recovery; that, with that she’d recognised the clear signs of
support, I’d simply start eating again, anorexia immediately. I have so much
gain weight, and get better. But refusing with the dissolution of a lifetime dream. to thank her for: the opportunity to gain
food is merely a symptom of a far deeper I no longer knew what defined me, nor experience, for knowing my physical limits
problem, and I was going to get much did I have any clear purpose, no goal that and never pushing me past them, and for
worse before I started to get better. I was working towards. providing me with a supportive, happy,
What followed were four of the caring work environment, all the while
W
hardest years of my life. hen I got back from the fostering my growing love for baking.
Each week I saw a GP, psychiatrist, UK I immediately took It was while working with Mary that
psychologist and dietitian. I’d have a front-of-house position I began to feel a glimmer of hope, a
blood tests and an ECG, along with at Phillippa’s Bakery in small sign of a life with a new direction.
periodic bone-density scans. Anorexia Melbourne’s south-east, driven partly by And one afternoon, after I had finished
has the highest death rate of any my love for baking, and partly by “the a shift, I found myself at home with a
psychiatric illness; one of the biggest anorexia’s” need to be around food. new coffee table book about Paris
risks of starvation is heart failure. And I had a love-hate relationship with this pâtisseries. This was to be a Sliding
yet, despite all the hard evidence, I was particular job. Enchanted by the array of Doors moment. I opened to a double
firmly in the grip of the disease and baked goods, it was a considerable test page photo of a stack of pains au chocolat
couldn’t be convinced that what I was of my willpower to be surrounded by so at Parisian boulangerie Du Pain et des
doing was wrong. much deliciousness. On the rare occasion Idées. Hypnotised and enchanted by the
Any observation about my eating I gave in to temptation, tasting a rogue perfect layers and golden shells, I closed
brought on immediate panic attacks and crumb left on a tray, I’d beat myself up the book, walked into a travel agent and
waves of unbearable anxiety. I weighed for not being strong enough to resist. The booked a ticket to Paris.
myself after most meals. Even a tiny days at Phillippa’s were long, and tough
Y
rise in the number on the scales would on me physically and mentally. After a few ou might say the rest is history,
further fuel the panic and the anxiety. months, the physical demand of being but the honest truth is I was
Some nights I’d reach a level of on my feet for nine hours a day became still very much suffering from
unmanageable hysteria. too much, and I had no anorexia. Though medically
On nights like this, choice but to quit. considered to be on the path to recovery,
my parents just didn’t “I started Lune Coffee at a little local I was still well below a normal healthy
know what to do. To in 2012 as café near Hartwell Station weight, and not yet out of the woods.
watch a daughter – once an anorexic. became a morning ritual. The difference was that I was now
intelligent, career-driven, Gradually I got to know the forming a new set of goals. There was
and most of all, happy
Recovery was beautiful husband-and-wife something I cared about much more
and healthy – who was slow, but Lune owner-operator team. One than calorie counting and exercise.
now slowly killing herself, was healing me.” morning I summoned the
must have been hell. Yet courage and asked Mary
despite their efforts, they if she’d consider giving me
could only look on. a job baking for the café. In spite of my
The doctors banned me from doing gaping lack of experience (and skeletal
cardio-based exercise; they were worried figure), Mary took me on for four hours
my heart would fail. So instead I walked each morning. At 10.30am I’d gently but
everywhere. I would walk so fast, with firmly be encouraged to hang up my apron
such determination, that it was hard for and punch my ticket.
anyone to keep up with me. Even in the It felt like magic happened every day
depths of winter, I’d march the streets for in that tiny kitchen, and mornings there
a couple of hours every night after dinner, became my reason for getting out of bed.
my bony frame chilled to the core. Seasonal, raw ingredients Mary procured
Working with my psychiatrist, I began from the markets were transformed into
to uncover what lay beneath this need to the most incredible Mediterranean dishes,
control my food and exercise. Anorexia and rather than just baking at home, I now
was hiding a great mental struggle to deal had a purpose and a place to legitimately
bake for other people. Unbeknownst to
me at the time, I was also being taught
a deep respect for ingredients, their
provenance and for seasonality.
I started Lune in 2012 as an anorexic.
The road to full recovery was slow, almost
unnoticeable to those closest to me,
however my life slowly started gaining
momentum again, and the anorexia was
muscled out. I no longer had the time
to worry about adhering to all those rules
I’d subconsciously created around eating
and exercise. Lune was healing me.
At some point in the last few years
I completely stopped worrying about food
and just started enjoying it again. I stopped
weighing myself every day, abandoned
the numerous habits and rules that had
defined my anorexia, and just started to
live fully. I don’t think I could ever fall
back into the clutches of anorexia again;
I just love good food too much – surely
it’s one of the very best things about life!
Recently I observed a significant shift
in my motivations. When I started Lune
I was consciously making croissants for
others; personal satisfaction came from
creating them, then seeing others enjoy
eating them. I wasn’t changing the world
in any dramatic way, but providing people
with something that brought them
pleasure and happiness, even just for
a moment, I felt I was making a small
difference to their everyday lives.
Now, I simply adore the croissants.
Kate Reid. I love making them and find deep
Below: Reid at satisfaction in the precision techniques,
her bakery, Lune
Croissanterie, and in the daily challenge to understand
in Melbourne. the natural variations in the raw
ingredients and how they interact
with the ever-changing environmental
conditions. I’m so grateful for the
knowledge that comes with this perfectly
imperfect craft, but, mainly, I just love
eating a Lune croissant. My love for
what I do feels truly authentic, and this
And I was starting to develop a healthier is justification enough for me to carry on.
relationship with food. Telltale behavioural More importantly, I now know
traits persisted, however. My dietitian that I am strong, I can overcome
asked me to write down all the rules by immense obstacles, and that sometimes
which I ate food. I laughed at her – what great opportunity can come from the
a ridiculous concept that I’d have “eating bleakest of places. ●
rules”. Humouring her, I sat with a pen If you or anyone you know is experiencing
and paper. Four-and-a-half A4 pages an eating disorder or body-image concerns, you
later I realised I ate to an extensive set can call the Butterfly Foundation National
of rules. And those rules were hard to Helpline on 1800 334 673 or email
shake. Working in a commercial kitchen, support@thebutterflyfoundation.org.au.
I also still had that element of control
associated with preparing food but not
necessarily eating it.
UNDER
T H E TA B L E
A new cottage-industry of home cooks is thriving online, ofering

dishes little seen elsewhere. Is it legal, asks ALEXANDRA CARLTON,
and does it matter when the food is this good and made with love?
“W
hy do you want Asian conducting a drug deal. Inbox requests most home businesses are happy to get the
food? Dietitian tell go unanswered or online conversations licensing, but the councils are so difficult,”
you?” asks the tiny grind to a halt without explanation. But a woman who sells bespoke birthday cakes
Singaporean if you luck out and manage to arrange illegally from her Sydney home tells me.
grandmother who’s greeted me at the a sale, the perseverance is worth it. One option for both sellers and
door of her western Sydney apartment One evening I drive into Sydney’s buyers is FoodByUs, a sort of eBay for
block and handed me a plastic bag western suburbs again to try homemade home cooks that operates in Sydney,
holding two takeaway containers. Egyptian hawawshi. The thin discs of Melbourne and Brisbane. Each of their
One’s filled with ayam sioh, sticky bread, the size of dinner plates, are crisp, sellers is vetted and certified, and risky
chicken drumsticks, and the other with their minced-meat filling fragrant with products such as fresh cheese, raw fish
Nyonya acar, a sweet-and-sour vegetable onion, cinnamon and parsley. Another and jerky are banned. “As a marketplace
pickle. The question is asked kindly but time I stop on a busy road to meet a operator we have to be the keeper of
cautiously. I’ve just bought dinner from woman cooking vegetarian Patiala Shahi quality,” says managing director Ben
a stranger’s home, and the woman who Indian tiffins. “Please, no, these are Lipschitz. They can only do so much
made it seems as astonished by the for free,” she insists, trying to press if a local council won’t certify a kitchen,
transaction as I am. my $20 note – for two but they do their best
Welcome to the world of underground meals – back into my to help businesses
home cooking, where passionate cooks hands. “I want you to “Kitchen jump through all the
expand their family meals into cottage enjoy it.” I do. Lentils watched over by bureaucratic hoops.
businesses. Typically, they’re making and red kidney beans are strict mother,” For those who can’t
the food of their homelands for friends creamy and earthy and or choose to not get
reads one
and neighbours, often cuisines that can her naan has just the right certified, what exists is
be hard to track down commercially ratio of soft to charred. Facebook ad, a clunky, clandestine but
such as Egyptian, Filipino, Indonesian, Most of all it feels like which is rather lovely community
Spanish and Pakistani. And sometimes I’m eating the food of endorsement of cooks making and
they’re playing fast and loose with the someone who loves selling the food they love.
law, flouting food hygiene or business to cook. “Cooking is
enough for me. There are no guarantees,
regulations or both. a meditation for me,” but the sellers I spoke
That explains the wariness on the she explains later. to take their businesses seriously, and it’s
part of the Singaporean woman who’s It’s a delightful way to find interesting in their interest to make sure their food
just provided my dinner. More often food and meet interesting people, but it’s satisfies their clientele without leaving
than not, the cooks and customers who not without its challenges, for both sellers them regretting it the next day. “Kitchen
operate in this culinary grey area do and buyers. Buyers risk spending a long watched over by a strict mother,” reads
so through word of mouth within their night on the tiles if food is prepared one Facebook ad, which is endorsement
own communities. But some take the unsafely; sellers risk prosecution and enough for me.
risk of offering their services on Gumtree steep fines. Food regulations vary from Considering the risks involved
or Facebook Marketplace. “Homemade state to state, but in NSW, for instance, there’s clearly sufficient demand, even if it
Egyptian food, halal ingredients, if you anyone selling food has to have passed requires a certain determination to track
interested inbox me,” reads a typical a Food Safety Supervisor course. sellers down on the black market. For the
ILLUSTRATION ROB COWAN
advertisement, many of which appear That part’s relatively easy. What’s most part, these businesses are satisfying
on the sites and disappear shortly harder is getting a residential kitchen a hunger for a taste of home that can’t be
afterwards as the sellers try to stay cleared to sell food. Regulations vary sated by Uber Eats, at least not yet. The
under the radar. from council to council, and would-be only advice is that if you find one you like,
For a buyer, the shadowy nature sellers need to navigate their way through get in quick: they might be there one day,
of the process means it feels a little like the red tape. “The frustrating part is that then gone before you know it. ●
Thrill seekers From dining 3,500 metres above sea level in the Andes to being
immersed in an art installation pre-entrée, MICHAEL HARDEN
counts down the 10 most exciting new restaurants in the world.
Balagan, Paris
Near the top of the discerning Parisian’s wish list right now is
Balagan, a beautifully designed restaurant and bar on the ground
floor of The Renaissance Paris-Vendôme Hotel. Assaf Granit and
Uri Navon, two Israeli chefs formerly of Jerusalem’s Machne- Poppy cake with
Yehuda and London’s Palomar and The Barbary dish up a fusion cream at Balagan.
Opposite, from left:
of Israeli, Moroccan and French cuisine. It’s a great perch to Dan Yosha and
observe yet another example of the city of light’s newfound love Shaked Shaoul in
of cuisines other than French. It’s also a whole lot of fun. the kitchen at
Balagan; the dining
Moroccan oysters are served with chermoula and radish, beef room at Balagan;
tartare is spiked with tahini and peppers, the veal sweetbreads vegetable carpaccio
are grilled and cocktails from the pretty bar might mix beet with mint ice
syrup, mezcal, coriander and sherry vinegar. They sync perfectly and Bloody
Berry “uncocktail”
with Balagan’s loud, energetic, crazy Israeli-party vibe. at Faro Tapas;
9 Rue d’Alger, Paris, balagan-paris.com Dominique Crenn.
Bar Crenn, San Francisco
A new wine bar by chef Dominique Crenn that’s want to eat right now – bings, the
“an homage to the classics of French gastronomy” Chinese flatbread, are chucked on the
with a menu that includes classic dishes from grill then served with tinned sardines or
Alain Ducasse, Pierre Koffmann, Guy Savoy and cave-aged butter and white sturgeon roe
Crenn herself? Sign us up. The homage doesn’t or soft-boiled eggs, smoked trout roe and
stop with the food though. The space, linked onion soubise. There’s a $190 rack of ribs
to the two-starred Atelier Crenn by a central carved at the table and flavoured with
PHOTOGRAPHY JORDAN ALIEXIS (DOMINIQUE CRENN ), STUDIO L’ETIQUETTE (BALAGAN) & MONA/JESSE HUNNIFORD (FARO TAPAS)
courtyard, is a take on the great salons of 1920s “domojang”, a take on doenjang. There’s
and ’30s Paris. Think velvet curtains, animal-print spicy bo ssäm, noodles soused in pork
fabric, chandeliers, timber, marble and leather fat and tossed with fermented krill, and
galore, plus couches and rugs strewn across kakigori with citrus and meringue. There
polished floors and a cocktail list rich in will be a wait, online or on the street (bar
old-school French apéritifs. Crenn, named best seating is unreserved). 1725 Naud St, Los
Female Chef in the World in 2016 (she used the Angeles, majordomo.la
platform to call out the hospitality trade – and the award
– for sexism), crams her short, ever-changing menu with the F a r o Ta p a s , H o b a r t
kind of dishes that French dreams are made of. There’s soupe aux You may not hit Faro just for the food but, being a restaurant in
truffes, tarte flambé and a pâté en croûte that has San Francisco the new Pharos wing of Mona that’s designed to mess with your
critics frothing adjectives. The wine list is a cracker too, mainly mind, eating is only partly the point. At its heart is the enormous
biodynamic from France and California. It’s small and popular: white sphere that you see through the bank of windows when
plan well ahead. 3131 Fillmore St, San Francisco, barcrenn.com approaching the museum from the Derwent River. It’s a sensory
installation from American artist James Turrell, and as part of the
Majordomo, LA dining experience here – the one where you not only look at the
As if David Chang, the glorious leader of the increasingly global art but become part of it – you get to step inside the sphere, lay
Momofuku empire, hadn’t already attracted a bonfire of down and get pummelled by a 15 minute ride of sound and
anticipation opening his first West Coast restaurant, he fanned colour. This can be before or after the signature black Margarita
it by launching a new Netflix show (Ugly Delicious) and working containing a pig’s eyeball encased in ice, not to mention the
as a correspondent for NBC during the 2018 Winter Olympics relatively straight Spanish menu of good jamón, empanadas and
at the same time. Cue queues. Majordomo occupies a former more complex snacks such as confit abalone, raw scallop and miso
industrial site in downtown Los Angeles that’s now all designer on a linseed cracker, as well as main courses such as the slow-
concrete, steel, timber and rippled glass. The décor includes art cooked lamb shoulder with mixed-grain risotto, nori, turnip and
by Taiwanese-American painter James Jean and onggis, the spinach. There’s a sensory deprivation installation as part of the
traditional Korean ceramic fermenting pots; Majordomo will be experience too and who hasn’t wanted one of those on hand from
self-sufficient in fermented goods any day now. In typical Chang time to time at dinner? It’s provocative and strange and quite a lot
style there’s a heap of influences at play in the food – Korean, of fun. Mona honcho David Walsh calls it “barely controlled
Chinese, Japanese, South American, French – and a dedication chaos” and, after a Turrell or two, it’s hard to disagree. Faro Tapas,
to West Coast produce. But mostly it’s just chock full of stuff you Mona, 655 Main Rd, Berriedale, Tas, mona.net.au/eat-drink/faro ➤
Mil, Moray, Peru
The latest entrant in the dining-as-extreme-
sport stakes, Mil is a 20-seat restaurant
and laboratory, 3500 metres above sea
level in the Peruvian Andes. It overlooks
a gobsmackingly gorgeous landscape that
includes an Inca ruin, and is as much
about researching and cataloguing native
Andean ingredients as it is feeding people.
Mil’s team of anthropologists, biologists
and nanotechnologists (no, really) has
archived 55 varieties of potato already.
Leading the charge is chef Virgilio
Martínez from Lima’s Central restaurant
The view from Mil, in the
(fifth on last year’s World’s 50 Best),
Peruvian Andes. Clockwise, from
a champion of Peruvian biodiversity via a below right: Virgilio Martínez and
menu that’s beholden to altitudes rather the Mil team at the huatia; the
than seasons. At Mil it’s all the one dining room at Noma; smoked
Flinders mussels with angel hair
altitude and Martínez is talking to the pasta at Pt. Leo Estate; potée de
locals to investigate ancient Incan cooking cochon at Bar Crenn; Massimo
techniques. One dish, tarwi ceviche Bottura at Gucci Osteria da
Massimo Bottura.
combines tarwi (a local bean) with
passionfruit, avocado and marinated
guinea pig. Other dishes make use of a
huatia, a traditional Incan stone oven. It’s oven and grill and a dining bar. It’s all
not an easy place to get to – a 45-minute about pizzette and panzanella, Tuscan-
winding drive from the nearest town, style sausages and grilled vegetables,
Cusco, which is also high in the Andes, and a list of cicchetti. Aperitivi will also
about 1000km from Lima. But it’s all feature. This new food push is being
about the quiet, the meditation and a run by eldest Boglione daughter, Lara,
menu focused on vegetables, tubers and working with chef-director Damian
grains. And a little llama and alpaca Clisby, a member of the team at
meat for good measure. Get trekking. Petersham for the last four years. The
500 metres above the Archaeological Complex “lifestyle destination” also features a
of Moray, milcentro.pe deli, kitchenware shop and florist. Floral
Court, London, petershamnurseries.com/dine
The Petersham &
La Goccia, London Gucci Osteria da Massimo
Bottura, Florence
ALESSANDRO MOGGI (MASSIMO BOTTURA), ANSON SMART (PT LEO ESTATE)

The Boglione family’s Petersham
PHOTOGRAPHY JORDAN ALIEXIS (BAR CRENN), JASON LOUCAS (NOMA),

Nurseries, the chic garden centre with Exciting news for fashionable food fans
a reputation for great food in Richmond, with Gucci joining Prada and LVMH in
makes its Covent Garden début with dipping its toes into the culinary pool.
two new restaurants, both with Italian Being a Gucci restaurant, Gucci Osteria
accents and a focus on ethical, seasonal doesn’t do things by half. It’s part of the
ingredients. With an à la carte menu, Gucci Garden, a museum-retail concept
contemporary art, Murano glass work inside a 14th-century palazzo overlooking
and a restrained sense of pomp, The Piazza della Signoria in the centre of
Petersham is the more upmarket of the Florence. And as if that’s not enough
two. It’s also tying itself to the Slow Food for you to get your skates on, the chef is
philosophy, sourcing organic meat from Massimo Bottura, the force behind the
& GUSTAVO VIVANCO (MIL)
the family farm on the border of Devon three-starred Modena restaurant Osteria
and Dorset (run by the Bogliores’ son, Francescana. Bottura’s menu has a Gucci
Harry) and vegetables and leaves from mishmash craziness to it. Sure there’s a
the family gardens in Richmond. La strong Italian carb-emphasis – tortellini,
Goccia is more freewheeling, an all-day cacio e pepe, mushroom risotto – but the
restaurant built around a wood-fired menu also includes tostadas, steamed
pork buns, burgers and hotdogs. The a building in midtown Hibiya, close
50-seat dining room looks the part, to the Imperial Palace. Chef Yamamoto
low-key dramatic, its apple green walls explains the move as an appropriate
lined with antiquities. And after lunch one for a restaurant like his, that aims
there’s a whole garden of shopping to to “raise the national flag” by exploring
work off the pasta. Piazza della Signoria the richness and authenticity of Japanese
10, Florence, gucci.com food. The new location will provide more
space and comfort with an emphasis
Noma 2.0, Copenhagen on traditional craftsmanship and artisan
There was never any doubt that René ceramic tableware. Yamamoto initially
Redzepi’s reboot of his zeitgeist-shifting made his name with his modern approach
restaurant was going to attract attention to kaiseki, but he’s now known more for
and a feral scrambling for tables. After the authenticity of his cooking and an
popping up around the world (Tokyo, unflagging dedication to the best seafood
Sydney, Tulum), then shuttering the and vegetables. Add anticipation to his
original site, the anticipation was feverish. bag of Michelin stars and consistently
How do you successfully reinvent the high ranking on the Asia’s 50 Best list
World’s Best Restaurant? Apparently, by and it’s probable that a seat at his new
shifting only a short distance from the old table will be harder to get than ever.
joint into Copenhagen’s former counter- 7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo,
culture commune Christianshavn. Then nihonryori-ryugin.com/en
you spend vast sums on an abandoned,
graffiti-strewn stretch of buildings bringing Pt Leo Estate, Mornington
fermentation labs, four kitchens, glass Peninsula
ceilings as well as souvenirs, ideas andPhil Wood has been dishing up superbly
memories from Japan, Australia and balanced food at Pt Leo Estate’s semi-
Mexico. Then you make your obsession formal bistro since the $50 million
sculpture park, winery and restaurant
with the local and the seasonal even more
opened late last year. Wood,
whose last gig was at Eleven
Mil overlooks a gobsmackingly Bridge in Sydney, uses as much
Mornington Peninsula produce
gorgeous landscape that includes
as he can get his hands on, but
an Inca ruin, and is engaged in given the small scale of most
cataloguing native Andean ingredients. farmers in the region he has had
to be pragmatic. Stage two in
his culinary master plan has
forensic so that the first menu, “Seafood now commenced at Laura, the 45-seat
Season” reflecting the local season, is restaurant named for one of Pt Leo’s most
seafood only – think Danish squid, spectacular artworks, a colossal eight-metre
Faroe Island sea snails and sea urchin, sculpture of a woman’s head by Catalan
wild trout roe and sea cucumbers. It’s artist Jaume Plensa. The set menu at Laura
Redzepi, so the combinations are loopy, changes daily, and its four to six courses
counterintuitive and artful. Early reports are all about Mornington Peninsula
indicate swooning. Refshalevej 96, 1432 produce. That means locally caught fish
Copenhagen K, noma.dk and locally farmed mussels, but it’s also
about seaweed, vegetables, vine leaves and,
R y u G i n , To k y o eventually, beef from the herd of cattle
Pulses became discreetly elevated when that can be seen grazing between the
word came last year that chef Seiji sculptures in a distant paddock. Wood
Yamamoto was closing down his three-star doesn’t use the term fine dining but his
kaiseki restaurant in Roppongi. Relief food is finely crafted, balanced and a
all-round then that it was only because prime example of what’s happening right
he was moving after 15 years in the one now in what may be Australia’s hottest
hilariously nondescript location. The dining region. 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd,
new RyuGin is on the seventh floor of Merricks, Vic, ptleoestate.com.au ●
It’s estimated that by 2050, plastic in the ocean will outweigh the fish. In beachside
Sydney, Harriet Leigh of Archie Rose Distilling Co. says enough is enough. It’s time
to suck it up and say no to single-use straws, writes MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD.
A
monkey, an umbrella, a swizzle stick ck and two straws,
one straight up and one bent. Weelcome to bar-land
in the ’60s and ’70s, where paper stra raws are out and
the more plastic there is in your drink th the better.
Circa 2018, however, and single-use plastic is far from m cool.
Major supermarkets have begun banning plastic bags, reu eusable
coffee cups are a must-have accessory, and the Queen has
pledged to go plastic-free at Buckingham Palace.
In Sydney, Harriet Leigh, head of hospitality at Archie Rose
Distilling Co., is on her own mission to curb plastic pollution. Other Sydney venues that have jo joined the movem ment include
She wants Sydney to suck it up and stop using plastic straws. Big
B Poppa’s, Bulletin Place, Newttown Hotel and Youngg Henrys
“I want the entire city to be straw-free by 1 January 2019,” she brew wery. At Orchard St juice bbar, which has three locationss in
says, “and I don’t want anyone to think we can’t do it.” Sydney, y a 100 per cent biod degradable straw has been sourced d as
a
The war on single-use plastics around the world gathered an alternattive, while at D Dead Ringer bar and restaurant,
momentum in 2015, after a video of a sea turtle with a straw stuck plastic has beeen replaaced with a reusable metal straw. Nation-
in its nostril went viral; it has been viewed more than 20 million wide, there are manyman venues who’ve already said no to plastic
times. Since then, it’s also been widely reported that by 2050, the straws including the Grace Darling Hotel and Bar Liberty in
amount of plastic in the ocean will outweigh fish. “Sydney is a Melbourne, Hobart’s Society and Alabama Hotel, All Inn
beach-loving society,” says Leigh. “A lot of people start or end their Brewing Co in Brisbane and Small Print and Print Hall in Perth.
day at the beach, and I think that’s the way to get people to care.” There are also more than 30 tourism operators in Port Douglas
Now into the second quarter of her year-long quest to rid and Cairns campaigning to have them banned at businesses
Sy
Sydney of plastic straws, Leigh is urging businesses to make a policy within the Great Barrier Reef.
of only serving them on request, and to source biodegradable Blackheath, in the Blue Mountains, is the first town in
alternatives. Her aha moment came on New Year’s Day this year Australia to ditch plastic straws entirely. Blackheath resident Lis
at Archie Rose’s bar, when a colleague tripped while taking out Bastian convinced the town’s 30 businesses to agree to it – from
the rubbish and a wheelie bin went flying. “What came out was the service station to the grocers and cafés – and placed a bulk
2,000 straws,” she says. Not only does a bartender serve hundreds order for the entire town of waxed paper straws from Aardvark,
of straws a shift, but they also taste the drinks with just as many. an American manufacturer.
A gin and tonic, often served with a straw, might be slurped up It’s an admirable accomplishment, but there’s also no
in minutes, but the plastic could take 200 years to break down. McDonald’s or Starbucks in Blackheath. To gain serious clout
“In a bar the ice melts, the glass is recycled, the limes rot, the in Sydney, the movement will require major fast-food outlets and
paper napkins break down. It’s always only the straw-plastic corporations to get behind it, too. “My game plan originally was
that’s left,” says Leigh. to get Sydney’s biggest hospitality players like Swillhouse and
The numbers are frightening. Australians use more than Merivale, and then I thought everyone else would follow,” says
10 million straws every day; they’re considered one of “the big Leigh. “But it isn’t that easy. First we have to re-educate people to
four” single-use plastics, along with coffee cups, grocery bags and not want a straw in their drink.” Once there’s major groundswell,
water bottles. They’re also one of the most common plastics found hopefully the big guys will follow.
in the ocean. In Australia, a national campaign and online The quest isn’t purely environmental for Leigh, either.
directory called The Last Straw was founded in 2015 to urge “When you drink red wine or a single-malt, you appreciate the
people to re-evaluate the need for straws. They’re undoubtedly the drink first with your eyes, then with your nose, then with your
easiest single-use plastic to say no to, but this requires proactive mouth,” she says. “If you use a straw, you put four inches of
change in habit from consumers and businesses. plastic between you and the drink immediately.”
Archie Rose only offers straws on request, as does the Other cities have been successful in going straw-free.
Lord Gladstone hotel in Sydney’s Chippendale. “We use them Chester in the UK is on its way with more than 30 businesses
way more from habit than need,” says Leigh, “and unless it’s a banning them, and Seattle in the US will ban plastic straws from
coconut or a Mint Julep, most drinks don’t require one anyway.” July. In Taiwan – home of boba, or bubble tea – plastic straws will
be banned from all fast-food outlets by 2019, and completely gone
the following year. Meanwhile, the EU has plans to make all
PHOTOGRAPHY RODNEY MACUJA
plastic in Europe recyclable or reusable by 2030.

But 2030 is too far off for Sydney, says Leigh. Now’s the time
to ssay no to a culture of convenience, and yes to one that cares for
the en nvironment. “It’d be really cool for our city to do something
first,” shee says, regarding the 1 January deadline. “We’ve got such
a bad rap wit ith our bar and nightlife, but with this we could say,
you know what, t Sydney’s actually quite progressive.”
Your venue can pledg dge to go straw-free by registering at laststraw.com.au.
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M AY
FOOD
Heart of gold Pear tarte Tatin

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY
Mothers’ best dishes, seasonal produce,

sweet tarts, chart-toppers from Melbourne’s
Harley & Rose, and vegetarian Indian. p115
Andalusian
spinach and
chickpeas
p 94
Mum’s
lasagne
p 94
Mum’s
the
word
We asked chefs for dishes
their mums used to make.
What did we learn? Mothers
inspired passion in all these
cooks, and even now, they’re
still sharing the love.
Recipes MATT BREEN, FRANK CAMORRA,

ALI CURREY-VOUMARD, BETHANY FINN,
CHUI LEE LUK & AARON TURNER
Photography BEN DEARNLEY
Styling LUCY TWEED
Food preparation NICK BANBURY
Drink suggestions MAX ALLEN

FRANK CAMORRA, MoVida 170 gm dried chickpeas to low and simmer, topping up 3 Melt butter in a large
Andalusian (see note) water as necessary until tender saucepan over medium heat,
20 gm butter (40 minutes to 1 hour). Drain, add garlic and stir until light
spinach and 1 garlic clove, finely diced reserving cooking liquid. Cool. golden (1 minute), then add
chickpeas 800 gm (about 2 bunches) 2 For picada de pan, heat olive spinach and turn with tongs until
spinach, trimmed oil in a small frying pan over wilted (2 minutes). Increase heat
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 35 MINS //
COOK 1 HR 10 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)
1½ tbsp sweet Spanish paprika medium heat. Add garlic and to high, add chickpeas and
1 tbsp freshly ground stir until fragrant (2-3 minutes), 400ml cooking liquid and
“I love Mum’s Andalusian dry-roasted cumin seeds then add bread, season to taste, cook, stirring occasionally and
spinach and chickpea stew, (see cook’s notes p168) and cook, turning halfway, until crushing a few of the chickpeas
because to me it’s comfort food 1½ tbsp sherry vinegar golden (2-3 minutes). Transfer into the spinach, until heated
– it’s like sausages and mash Extra-virgin olive oil and bread and garlic to paper through (5-6 minutes). Add
for other people,” says Frank crusty bread (optional), towels to drain and cool briefly, 125gm picada de pan (reserve
Camorra. “The flavours you to serve then tear bread into small remainder; it’s great with eggs)
remember from childhood are PICADA DE PAN pieces and remove skins from and spices, season to taste and
the ones that stick with you. 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil garlic. Pound bread and garlic stir to combine. Reduce heat to
Even now I can’t make it 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled with a mortar and pestle until low and simmer until thickened
exactly the same as she can, 2 thick slices day-old dense large but even breadcrumbs. and creamy (5-7 minutes), then
and still look forward to a country-style bread, crusts Add 50gm cooked chickpeas, stir in sherry vinegar. Drizzle with
massive plate of it made by removed (about 100gm) 60ml reserved cooking liquid oil and serve with bread.
her.” Begin this recipe a day and season to taste with sea Note Frank Camorra uses
ahead to soak the chickpeas. 1 Soak chickpeas in 1 litre of salt, then pound to break up Ord River chickpeas, available
Pictured p92. water in a large bowl. overnight. chickpeas. Add another 50gm from select delicatessens
Drain, transfer to large saucepan cooked chickpeas, and another and greengrocers.
of water, bring to the boil, add 1-2 tbsp cooking liquid and Wine suggestion Leathery
250ml cold water, bring back to pound to the consistency of old red Rioja.
the boil, then reduce heat coarsely mashed potato.
MATT BREEN, Templo add onion, carrot and celery and salted water (30 seconds), drain,
stir until softened and starting to and transfer to a baking tray
Mum’s lasagne brown (6-8 minutes). Add wine lined with baking paper, drizzling
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 1½ HRS (PLUS COOLING) and simmer until reduced by half with oil to prevent sticking.
(1-2 minutes). Transfer to a large 3 Blanch eggplant in a large
“Mum’s lasagne takes me back to when I was young,” baking dish, add mince, spices saucepan of boiling salted water
says Matt Breen. “We’d spend Sundays rolling pasta (Breen ties them in a muslin until just tender (2-3 minutes).
and making the ragù. It’s one of the first dishes I learnt bundle) and passata and stir to 4 For mornay, melt butter in a
to cook. Thanks Mum!” This can also be made with combine. Season to taste, then saucepan, add flour and cook,
bought fresh lasagne sheets. Pictured p93. bake, stirring halfway through whisking, until sandy coloured
cooking, until thickened and (2-3 minutes). Gradually whisk
1 kg coarsely minced beef PASTA well flavoured (1 hour). Cool. in milk until smooth, then cook,
500 gm coarsely minced pork 300 gm “00” flour 2 Meanwhile for pasta, combine whisking occasionally, until
2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 eggs flour and a large pinch of salt thickened (4-5 minutes). Remove
3 tsp rosemary leaves, MORNAY SAUCE on a work surface and make from heat and stir in cheddar.
coarsely chopped 75 gm butter a well. Add eggs, beat with your 5 Preheat oven to 180°C. Layer
1 tsp dried chilli flakes 75 gm (½ cup) plain flour hands or a fork, then slowly a third of the ragù (discard
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive 750 ml (3 cups) milk incorporate flour. Once spices) into a 30cm-diameter
oil, plus extra for drizzling 150 gm (1¼ cups) coarsely combined, knead until smooth round baking dish or a 25cm
1 onion, cut into 1cm dice grated cheddar cheese and elastic (5 minutes). Wrap in x 35cm baking dish. Add a
1 carrot, cut into 1cm dice plastic wrap and rest at room third of the eggplant and a layer
1 celery stalk, cut into 1 Preheat oven to 170°C. temperature for 30 minutes. of pasta (trim to fit). Top with a
1cm dice Combine beef and pork mince, Working with half the dough third of mornay sauce, then
½ cinnamon quill garlic, rosemary and chilli in a at a time, roll through a pasta repeat layering twice, finishing
2 cloves large bowl and season to taste. machine on the widest setting a with a layer of mornay sauce.
4 black peppercorns Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying few times, folding as you go, to Top with parmesan, cover tightly
80 ml red wine pan over high heat, add half the laminate the dough, dusting with with foil and bake until hot and
500 ml (2 cups) tomato passata mince and cook, stirring to a little flour to prevent sticking. bubbling (45-50 minutes).
1 large eggplant, cut break it up, until golden brown Continue rolling and folding, Increase oven to 200°C, uncover
lengthways into 1cm slices (4-6 minutes). Remove from pan reducing settings notch by notch and bake until golden brown
60 gm (¾ cup) coarsely and repeat with another 1 tbsp until pasta is 1.5mm thick. Cut (20-25 minutes). Cool briefly
grated parmesan oil and remaining mince, then into 20cm lengths and transfer and serve with salad.
Green salad (optional), set aside. Heat remaining oil in to a lightly floured tray. Blanch Wine suggestion Gutsy red
to serve the same pan over medium heat, in a large saucepan of boiling aglianico from Campania.
ALEJANDRO CANCINO, Urbane
Potato gnocchi with tuco
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK TIME 3 HRS 15 MINS
“I remember that Mum’s gnocchi was the best back when

I was a kid, I used to love it,” says Alejandro Cancino. “Tuco
is an Argentinian tomato sauce with either chicken or beef
– it’s light and a little watery. We had a ritual in our house
where whoever got the bay leaf had to wash up.”
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive add remaining oil and the onion,

oil, plus extra to serve garlic and carrot and cook,
2 small chicken Marylands stirring, until soft and translucent
(about 250gm each) (6-8 minutes). Add tomato, stock
2 onions, finely diced and bay, season to taste, reduce
6 garlic cloves, finely diced heat to very low and simmer
2 carrots, finely diced very gently until chicken is falling
800 gm canned whole peeled from the bone (2-3 hours). Cool
tomatoes briefly, then coarsely shred
500 ml (2 cups) vegetable stock chicken meat, discarding skin
or water and bones, and season to taste.
1 large fresh bay leaf Break up tomatoes with a spoon.
700 gm (about 3-4) Dutch cream 2 Meanwhile, preheat oven
potatoes, scrubbed to 170°C. Pierce potatoes a few
100 gm (⅔ cup) plain flour times with a fork, then roast on
2 eggs a baking tray lined with baking
Pinch of freshly grated paper until they can be easily
nutmeg pierced all the way through
Grated parmesan, to serve with a skewer (1¼-1½ hours).
While still hot, quarter potatoes
1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a saucepan lengthways, scrape out flesh and
over medium heat. Add chicken press through a fine sieve into
and brown on both sides a bowl. Weigh out 400gm potato
(2-3 minutes each side), then then mix with flour, eggs and
nutmeg and season to taste
with salt, being careful not to
overmix. Divide dough into
4, and roll each piece on a lightly
floured surface into a thin log,
about 2cm wide. Cut into 2cm
lengths, lightly dust with flour
and roll each piece down the
back of a fork, pressing lightly
to form gnocchi. Transfer to a
lightly floured tray.
3 Cook gnocchi in a large
saucepan of boiling salted water
until they float (1 minute). Gently
transfer to sauce with a slotted
spoon, toss to coat, then top
with parmesan and a drizzle of
olive oil to serve.
Wine suggestion Medium-
bodied red bonarda from
Mendoza. ➤
Gnocchi Tablecloth (used

throughout) and napkin from
Cultiver. Bowl from The DEA
Store. Plate (base) from Mud
Australia. PREVIOUS PAGE
Napkins from Cultiver. Carafe
and tumblers from Maison
Balzac. Malmo cutlery from
Top3 by Design. Chair from
Ikea. All other props stylist’s
own. Stockists p168.
AARON TURNER, Igni 500 ml (2 cups) thickened cream base. Repeat with remaining
1 tsp caster sugar biscuits (reserve 2 to garnish)
Mum’s chocolate ripple cake 1 tsp vanilla essence to form a log. Spread remaining
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS (PLUS CHILLING) 250 gm Arnott’s Choc Ripple cream mixture evenly over
biscuits biscuit log, then refrigerate,
“I don’t have a sweet tooth, never really did, so it’s strange that this
Sliced strawberries, covered (see note) to soften
cake is so comforting to me,” says Aaron Turner. “When we had
to serve and set (8 hours, or overnight).
sweet things, it was all made by Mum: biscuits, cakes, rolls – you
3 Crumble remaining two
name it, Mum baked it. If I was ever asked what I’d like at Christmas
1 Whisk cream, sugar and biscuits over by rubbing them
or for birthdays it was always this chocolate ripple cake. I’d pick the
vanilla in an electric mixer to together and serve cake, whole
strawberries from the top before anyone else could, which always
firm peaks (4-5 minutes). Spread or sliced, with strawberries.
ended with my sister throwing a tantrum and chasing me around
a little (about ½ cup) whipped Note To cover cake, insert
the house.” Begin this recipe eight hours ahead to set the cake.
cream on the base of a long toothpicks along the length of
serving platter (or tray if serving the cake and cover carefully
sliced) in a narrow strip (about with plastic wrap with the
30cm x 5cm). toothpicks keeping the plastic
2 Spread one side of a biscuit from touching the surface.
with 2 tsp cream, sandwich with Drink suggestion Strong
a second, then stand upright caffè corretto.
and face-forward on cream
“I’d always pick the strawberries from

the top of this cake before anyone else
could, which always resulted in my
sister throwing a tantrum and chasing
me around the house.” Aaron Turner
CHUI LEE LUK, Fujisaki
Chicken curry with pickled pineapple
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 1 HR (PLUS PICKLING, MARINATING)
“Chicken curry with accompaniments was the equivalent of a roast

dinner in our family when I was growing up,” says Chui Lee Luk.
“The scent of all the spices and aromatics, which were pounded
in a mortar and pestle, would waft out of the kitchen, and it would
seem an age before we got to sit down to enjoy it.”
1 For pickled pineapple, blend 4 Meanwhile, pound onion,

garlic, chilli, ginger, galangal, garlic, ginger and belacan to a
lemongrass and turmeric in smooth paste with a mortar and
a small food processor until pestle. Heat oil in a saucepan
smooth, adding a little oil to over medium heat and fry
1 chicken (about 1.5kg) , 30 gm (about 6cm) galangal, loosen if necessary. Heat oil paste until fragrant and onion
jointed into 12 pieces finely grated in a saucepan over low heat is cooked out (5-6 minutes).
1 onion, coarsely chopped 2 lemongrass stalks, white and fry paste until it darkens Add lemongrass, star anise and
5 garlic cloves part only, finely chopped slightly (20 minutes), then stir remaining curry powder and fry
15 gm (about 3cm) ginger 2 tsp ground turmeric in vinegar, sugar and 1 tsp until fragrant (1-2 minutes). Add
1 tsp belacan, roasted 125 ml (½ cup) canola oil salt. Remove from heat and chicken and 250ml water, cover
(see note) 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar cool, then add pineapple, stir and simmer, stirring occasionally,
1 tbsp canola oil 55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar to coat, and refrigerate to until chicken is half-cooked
1 lemongrass stalk, bruised 1 ripe pineapple (about marinate (1 hour). (15 minutes). Add potato,
and cut into 3 pieces 1kg), cut into 2cm pieces 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. coconut milk and curry
1 star anise CURRY POWDER For curry powder, dry-roast leaves, and simmer, stirring
450 gm (about 3 small) sebago 1 cinnamon quill ingredients (except chillies occasionally, until potato is
potatoes, quartered 1 tbsp coriander seeds peppercorns and turmeric) tender and chicken is cooked
250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk 1 tsp fennel seeds until fragrant (10 minutes; see (25-30 minutes). Season with
1 sprig fresh curry leaves ½ tsp cumin seeds cook’s notes p168). Finely grind salt and palm sugar and serve
3 tsp grated palm sugar, 2 cloves chillies with a mortar and pestle, with rice and pineapple pickle.
or to taste 2 cardamom pods, bruised add roasted spices and Note Belacan is a shrimp paste
Steamed rice, to serve 4 dried red chillies, coarsely peppercorns, finely grind, then available from Asian grocers. To
PICKLED PINEAPPLE chopped stir in turmeric. roast it, wrap it in foil and roast
10 small garlic cloves 1 tsp white peppercorns 3 Place chicken in a large bowl, in a 180°C oven for 10 minutes.
5 long red chillies, chopped 1 tsp ground turmeric rub with 1 tbsp curry powder Wine suggestion Fully
30 gm (about 6cm) ginger, and 1 tsp salt and leave mature bottle-aged Eden
coarsely chopped to marinate for 30 minutes. Valley riesling. ➤
ALI CURREY-VOUMARD,
Agrarian Kitchen
Broccoli soup
and cheesy toast
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS
// COOK 30 MINS
“I don’t have many food

memories from when I was
young, but one recipe that
Mum used to make a lot
was a good broccoli and
potato soup with a very
bastardised Welsh rarebit,”
says Ali Currey-Voumard.
2 tbsp neutral oil, such as 1 litre (4 cups) chicken 1 Heat oil in a large saucepan Combine cheese, sauces and
grapeseed or rice-bran oil or vegetable stock over medium heat, add leek, egg in a bowl, and season lightly
2 leeks, white and Sour cream, extra-virgin celery and garlic and stir to taste. Spread onto bread,
light green parts only, olive oil and finely chopped occasionally until translucent transfer to a baking tray lined
coarsely chopped chives, to serve (4-5 minutes). Add potato, with baking paper and bake
2 celery stalks, coarsely CHEESY TOASTS broccoli cores and thick stalks until golden and bubbling
chopped 100 gm (1 cup) coarsely grated and stock to just cover, season (10-12 minutes). Cut into fingers.
2 garlic cloves, finely cheddar or Gruyère to taste and simmer until very 3 Season soup to taste,
chopped 1 tbsp tomato sauce soft (20-25 minutes). Add divide among bowls, and top
500 gm (about 2) sebago 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce broccoli florets and finer with a spoon of sour cream,
potatoes, coarsely chopped 1 egg, beaten stalks, simmer until just cooked chives and a drizzle of oil. Serve
700 gm (about 2 small heads) 4 thick slices soft white or (2-3 minutes), then blend with a hot with cheesy toasts.
broccoli, thinly sliced wholemeal sandwich bread hand-held blender until smooth. Wine suggestion Golden
(cores and thick stalks 2 Meanwhile, for cheesy bottle-aged Barossa sémillon.
kept separately) toasts, preheat oven to 220°C.
Lemon delicious BETHANY FINN, Mayflower Restaurant
Napkin from Cultiver.
Pink dish from Batch Lemon delicious pudding
Ceramics. Malmo spoon
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 50 MINS
from Top3 by Design.
Dish (with pudding) from
Mud Australia. Soup
“Mum always focused on ensuring her four children had very
Royal Doulton Barber nutritious meals – we grew up eating lots of fresh fruits and
& Osgerby Olio platter vegetable from the local market,” says Bethany Finn. “She was
from Royal Doulton. an inspiration to me, a practical cook who planned well and kept
Napkin from Cultiver.
to a tight budget. Nutrition was the focus at home – we didn’t
Tumbler from Top3 by
Design. Spoon from have a pantry of lollies, biscuits or anything sweet. If we were still
Cutipol. PREVIOUS hungry after dinner, Mum’s catchphrase was ‘have an apple’,
PAGE Curry Tumblers which I now say to my son. Although treats were rare, on occasion
from Maison Balzac. she did make this family-favourite pudding.”
Bowl (with curry) and salt
dish from Mud Australia.
Bowls (with rice and 60 gm unsalted butter, 1 Preheat oven to 170°C. Beat
pickles) from The DEA softened butter, sugar and lemon rind
Store. Cake Napkin
from Cultiver. All other
330 gm (1½ cups) caster sugar in an electric mixer until pale
props stylist’s own. Finely grated rind of (2-3 minutes). Add yolks, one at
Stockists p168. 1 lemon, plus 150ml juice a time, beating well to combine
(from about 3-4 lemons) between each addition, add
3 eggs, separated flour, then gradually add milk,
60 gm self-raising flour mixing until a smooth batter
375 ml (1½ cups) milk forms. Scrape down sides
Pure icing sugar and of bowl and stir in lemon
pouring cream, to serve juice. Transfer batter to a bowl
and clean and dry mixer
bowl thoroughly.
2 Whisk eggwhites in an electric
mixer until firm peaks form, then
gradually add to batter, gently
folding in until well combined.
Pour into a 1.5-litre ceramic dish,
place in a deep baking tray,
transfer to oven, then fill tray
with enough boiling water to
come halfway up sides of dish.
3 Bake until risen and golden
brown on top (40-50 minutes).
Cool briefly (5 minutes), then
dust with icing sugar and
serve with cream.
Wine suggestion Sweet
German auslese riesling. ●
Weathering
challenges and
reaping the rewards,
market gardener
Paulette Whitney lays her
table with the bounty of
the land she cultivates
with her family.
AU T U
H A RV
Rooster pie
p 106
Radishes and
turnips with
yoghurt dip
and cornmeal
crackers
p 106
MN
EST
Recipes PAULETTE WHITNEY
Photography CHRIS CHEN

& ADAM GIBSON
Styling LYNSEY FRYERS
Drink suggestions MAX ALLEN
Heidi’s kale
salad
p 103
M
y family lives nestled in the folds of hills under
Kunanyi, or Mount Wellington, where dark, dense
forest breaks into gentle, open slopes. The mountain
elevation keeps our farm cool, but the clear air and
dazzling sunshine make our autumnal garden a place of plenty.
We moved here 14 years ago when my husband Matt was
working as a chef and I as a horticulturalist growing native plants
from Tasmania’s wildest places. When we decided to raise a family
our focus changed and our careers melded; notions of nutrition,
soil health, a quality environment and delicious food intertwined,
so we fenced out the pademelons and possums, and sowed seeds,
tucked in seedlings and zealously amassed a collection of edible
plants. As we became better at growing we met chefs who helped
to make our work viable; as their interest grew so did our
collection of plants, and our timing was perfect.
Luke Burgess had begun Garagistes restaurant in Hobart and
he quickly became a fast friend, the first I’d met who could chat
at length, and with great fervour, about frost affecting flavour,
the nuances in texture of different leaves, or how a particular wild
herb is prepared in a tiny Italian town. The highs of bountiful Paulette Whitney and
her daughter Heidi.
harvests, and the lows of drought or pests are softened greatly
by relationships with the chefs or home cooks we supply. Seeing
a photo of a loyal customer’s kitchen table filled with our produce
can take the edge off a rained-out market.
Farming as a family is both challenging and rewarding. When
it’s dry and every minute is spent watering, the children have to
fend for themselves; but being left to fend for themselves makes
them capable, which tempers those thoughts of neglect. Our
daughter Elsie has perfected pesto, her sister Heidi is a dab hand
with a kale salad. We regularly test our soil to ensure it has the
right balance of minerals to nurture our tiny workforce of soil
microorganisms – bacteria, fungi and their ilk – which help make
the widest range of nutrients available to our plants. If the plants
grow strong and healthy, they’ll pass these gifts onto our girls.
There are days when we’ll make salsa from tomatillos, fill
Peruvian stuffing-cucumbers with raisins and beef or drop
shungiku into a steamboat. But more often than not, when the
sun dips on a hard day of market gardening, we’ll reach for
the recipes of our mothers or grandmothers to put food
on the family table. provenancegrowers.blogspot.com.au
Mum’s silverbeet rolls
MAKES ABOUT 14 ROLLS // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS
“Silverbeet is the workhorse of the vegetable patch. Come

rain or shine, cabbage moths or blight, the silverbeet just
keeps growing,” says Paulette Whitney. “We grow a variety
called fordhook giant with deep green leaves and thick
white stems; each part of the plant is delicious. When I’d
had my first baby and thought I’d die of starvation if I had
to eat another bite of hospital food my mum arrived with
a tray of these silverbeet rolls and I think they saved my
life. A complete meal in one small dish.”
50 gm (¼ cup) long-grain rice to combine, then cool

2 bacon rashers, finely completely. Add beef, egg,
chopped thyme, mustard, paprika and
1 onion, finely chopped ½ cup cooked rice, season to
1 garlic clove, crushed taste and combine well, then
500 gm coarsely minced beef refrigerate until required.
1 egg, beaten 3 Preheat oven to 180°C. Place Heidi’s kale salad
1 tsp thyme, plus extra silverbeet leaves in a large SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS
leaves to serve colander placed in the sink. Pour
1 tsp Dijon mustard boiling water over the leaves, “My youngest daughter is so into her kale that she watches for
½ tsp sweet paprika lifting them out of the colander the first frost each autumn, knowing that frost makes kale
Leaves from 1 bunch of with tongs as they collapse. Cool sweeter and more tender,” says Whitney. “When that frost
silverbeet (about 10) stalks under cold running water, then happens she gathers kale and makes this salad; our favourite
removed (reserve stalks for gently squeeze out excess salad kales are Pentland brig or red Russian. Rubbing the
another use, such as water. Cut larger leaves in half. dressing into the leaves breaks down the cell walls and makes
silverbeet gratin p104) 4 Spread each leaf flat on a for a tender salad. Look for kales with lighter-coloured leaves.”
400 ml tomato passata work surface, spoon about Pictured p101.
100 ml beef or chicken stock ¼-cup mince mixture onto the
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce top of each leaf, then roll to 1tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 Combine vinegar and oils in
2 fresh bay leaves enclose filling, tucking the sides 2tbsp olive oil a small bowl, pour onto the kale
Steamed rice and chopped over as you go. Transfer to a 1tsp hazelnut oil in a large bowl and rub into
flat-leaf parsley (both small roasting pan, seam-side 4cups mixed kale leaves leaves until kale softens and
optional), to serve down (the rolls should fit snugly). (such as purple and green), brightens (1-2 minutes). Season
Combine passata, stock, coarsely torn to taste, then transfer to a salad
1 Cook rice in a large saucepan Worcestershire sauce and bay 45 gm (⅓ cup) roasted bowl and top with hazelnuts
of boiling water until par-boiled leaves in a jug, season to taste hazelnuts, coarsely crushed to serve. ➤
(5 minutes). Drain well and and pour it over rolls. Cover
set aside. with foil and bake until cooked
2 Add bacon and onion to a (50 minutes to 1 hour). Top with PREVIOUS PAGES Pie dish (rooster pie), small rectangular dish
frying pan over medium heat extra thyme or chopped parsley (with turnip and silverbeet) and plate (with cornmeal crackers), all
from Little White Dish. Pebble bowl (with kale salad) from Mud
and stir occasionally until fat and serve with rice. Australia. SG88 Extruded terracotta tiles (used throughout) from
renders and onion is softened Beer suggestion A pint of Surface Gallery. All other props stylist’s own. Silverbeet rolls MWT
(10-12 minutes). Add garlic, stir dark ale. large gratin stoneware dish, from Spence & Lyda. Stockists p168.
Silverbeet stalk gratin
SERVES 6 AS A SIDE // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
“A soothing, rib-sticking dish for a cold autumn night,” says Whitney.
Stalks from 1 bunch of 2 tbsp olive oil cook, stirring, until sandy
silverbeet, cut crossways Parmesan, for grating coloured (2 minutes). Gradually
into 4cm lengths (reserve add milk and stock, stirring
leaves for another use, such 1 Preheat oven to 220°C. continuously until smooth and
as silverbeet rolls p103) Blanch silverbeet stalks in a incorporated. Stir in cheddar,
50 gm butter large saucepan of salted water mustard and nutmeg, season
2 golden shallots, finely diced until just tender (5 minutes; see to taste, then pour sauce over
40 gm plain flour cook’s notes p168). Drain and silverbeet stalks.
300 ml milk refresh in iced water, then drain 3 Combine breadcrumbs with
300 ml chicken stock well and transfer to a 2.5 litre oil and sprinkle on top, grate
40 gm (⅓ cup) grated cheddar ovenproof dish. a little parmesan on top then
2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 Melt butter in a saucepan bake until golden and bubbly Silverbeet stalk gratin
¼ tsp finely grated nutmeg over low heat, add shallots and (20-25 minutes). Serve hot. All props stylist’s own.
Orecchiette Bowl from
⅓ cup (25gm) coarse stir occasionally until soft and Wine suggestion Old cabernet Little White Dish.
sourdough breadcrumbs translucent (5 minutes). Increase or merlot. All other props stylist’s
from day-old bread heat to medium, add flour and own. Stockists p168.
Orecchiette with turnip 500 gm dried orecchiette once fat has rendered, until
tops, bacon and lemon 200 gm streaky bacon rashers, crisp (5-6 minutes). Remove
thinly sliced from pan, reduce heat to low,
3 tsp olive oil then add garlic to pan and
“Cime di rapa is a beautiful variety of turnip bred for its 5 garlic cloves, finely fry until fragrant (1 minute).
greens and mildly bitter, broccoli-like flower buds, rather chopped Add cime di rapa and enough
than its roots,” says Whitney. “If you can’t find cime di 1 bunch cime di rapa reserved pasta water to loosen
rapa, the green tops of Japanese turnips are a great (see note), thinly sliced sauce (about 2-3 tbsp), then
substitute. We’ve had adventures making orecchiette, the Finely grated rind of cook until greens are just wilted
traditional accompaniment for cime di rapa, in our 1 lemon, plus lemon (1 minute). Add lemon rind
kitchen, and our 10-year-old, Heidi, was the only one to wedges to serve and season to taste, then
master the technique of scraping tiny bits of dough with 20 gm finely grated parmesan add drained pasta, bacon and
the back of a knife to make the ‘little ears’. In the absence remaining oil, toss to combine
of a handy 10-year-old, dried orecchiette is a great idea.” 1 Cook pasta in a large and divide among bowls. Top
saucepan of boiling salted water with parmesan and serve with
until al dente (10-15 minutes). lemon wedges.
Drain, reserving a little water. Note Cime di rapa, also known
2 Meanwhile, fry bacon with as broccoli raab, may need to
1 tsp oil in a large frying pan be ordered from greengrocers.
over low heat, stirring often Substitute kale, cavolo nero or
and increasing heat to high Japanese turnip tops.
Wine suggestion Barrel-
matured sauvignon blanc. ➤
Rooster pie mixed (there should still be some aside to cool briefly, then strip
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 2½ HRS (PLUS COOLING) large lumps of butter in the meat from the bones. Reserve
mixture). Make a well in the vegetables, garlic (squeeze
“The adage about boiling the rooster with a stone until the stone centre, add 130ml iced water cloves from skins) and bay
is tender is easily refuted,” says Whitney. “For every egg-laying and use pastry scraper to just leaf and strain cooking liquid
hen we hatch there’s a rooster who needs to become pie, and by combine. Knead dough just into a saucepan.
identifying boys early, and preventing anyone from becoming slightly to bring it together and 3 Reduce cooking liquid in
attached to them, we can have a tender bird for the pot. These form into a disc. Roll out pastry a saucepan over high heat
roosters have incredibly richly flavoured flesh. If you can’t get a on a lightly floured surface, to 200ml (5-10 minutes). Add
backyard rooster, look for heritage-breed chooks raised on pasture dusting pastry with flour, to form cornflour slurry and stir until
to find maximum flavour. The rough puf pastry is the easiest, most a rectangle. Fold the two short thickened slightly (1-2 minutes),
handy recipe when you find yourself with an empty larder, and edges in, one enclosing the then season to taste. Set aside
comes from my grandmother’s CWA cookbook.” Pictured p100. other (business-letter style), to to cool to room temperature.
form 3 layers. Rotate 90 degrees 4 Increase oven to 190°C.
2 tbsp olive oil 150 ml chicken stock clockwise, roll out and fold sides Combine rooster, vegetables,
2 carrots, cut into 2cm 2 tsp cornflour mixed in again. Repeat once more, garlic and reduced sauce in
lengths with 1 tbsp cold water then wrap in plastic wrap and a pie dish. Roll out pastry on a
2 small onions, coarsely 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp refrigerate until ready to use. lightly floured surface to 4mm
chopped milk, for eggwash 2 Preheat oven to 160°C. thick, then place over filling, trim
2 celery stalks, cut into ROUGH PUFF PASTRY Heat a flameproof roasting edges to leave 1cm overhanging,
2cm lengths 225 gm (1½ cups) flour pan over high heat, add half press to seal and make an
2 heads of garlic 1 tsp cream of tartar the oil, vegetables and garlic, incision in the centre. Brush
1 rooster or heritage-breed 225 gm butter, diced and stir until starting to brown with eggwash and bake until
chicken (1.5 kg), jointed (3-5 minutes). Remove from heat, filling is hot and pastry is golden
1 small bunch of thyme 1 For pastry, sift flour, cream add rooster, herbs, wine, stock (40-45 minutes). Serve hot.
3 bay leaves of tartar and ¼ tsp salt into a and remaining oil, then cover Wine suggestion Earthy,
150 ml white wine large bowl. Add butter, cutting tightly with foil and bake until rustic grenache.
through flour mixture with a rooster is tender and cooked
pastry scraper until roughly through (1½-2 hours). Set
Radishes and turnips with yoghurt crackers, season yoghurt to

taste and keep refrigerated.
dip and cornmeal crackers 2 For cornmeal crackers,
SERVES 6 AS A SNACK // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS DRAINING, RESTING) preheat oven to 180°C. Combine
cornmeal, flour, bicarbonate of
“Autumn is a perfect time for radishes – they grow quickly in soda, paprika and ¼ tsp sea salt
the still-warm soil, but the cool, even weather keeps them sweet in a bowl. Rub in butter with your
and crisp,” says Whitney. “We often pull them up, wipe them on fingertips until it resembles
our jeans, and snack as we walk the garden, but they’re equally coarse breadcrumbs, add
delicious given a little more attention. We’re lucky enough to have cheese and toss to combine,
Painted Mountain grinding corn in our pantry, but a high-quality then add whey and stir until just
cornmeal will work too.” The cornmeal crackers here are inspired combined. Knead gently, then
by Jude Blereau’s recipe. Pictured p101. form dough into a ball, wrap in
plastic wrap and refrigerate for
Radishes and turnips, such 150 gm wholemeal flour 30 minutes to rest. Roll out
as watermelon radish and ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda dough on a lightly floured
baby Japanese turnips, to 1 tsp smoked paprika surface to 2mm thick. Slice into
serve 70 gm butter, diced 3cm strips, then cut these into
HERB AND YOGHURT DIP 100 gm coarsely grated 8cm-10cm lengths. Bake,
280 gm (1 cup) thick plain cheddar swapping trays halfway, until
yoghurt 100 ml reserved whey from golden (15 minutes). Cool on tray
1 tbsp finely grated pecorino yoghurt dip (top up with for 5 minutes then transfer to a
Finely grated rind of water if necessary) wire rack to cool completely.
½ lemon Makes about 36 crackers.
1 tbsp finely chopped herbs, 1 For yoghurt dip, combine 3 Peel and slice larger radishes
such as flat-leaf parsley, ingredients in a bowl, transfer and turnips, leaving baby ones
chives and lemon thyme to a sieve lined with muslin and whole with tops attached, and
CORNMEAL CRACKERS place sieve over a bowl to drain serve with crackers and dip.
185 gm (1 cup) cornmeal in the refrigerator until thick Wine suggestion Crisp, dry
(fine polenta) (2-3 hours). Reserve whey for prosecco.
Matt Deakin and Paulette
Whitney (centre) with
their daughters Elsie
(left) and Heidi, and their
dog Cora the Explorer.
Caramel pumpkin pie

SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1¾ HRS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)
“The wholemeal-spelt shortcrust – inspired by a Jude

Blereau recipe – gives a nutty flavour and pleasing
texture,” says Whitney, “while roasting the squash in their
skins with rapadura sugar gives a rich, caramel flavour,
as well as enhancing the pumpkinness of the filling.”
900 gm pumpkin, seeds turning occasionally until tender

removed and cut into 5cm (40-50 minutes). Set aside to
chunks (see note) cool, then scoop flesh from
20 gm butter, softened the skins and coarsely mash.
100 gm rapadura sugar, or to 3 Meanwhile, grease a
taste, plus extra to serve 25cm-diameter loose-bottomed
2 eggs tart tin. Roll out pastry on a
60 ml (¼ cup) pouring cream lightly floured surface to 3mm
Large pinch of finely thick and line the tin. Dock
grated nutmeg pastry with a fork and trim
Pinch of ground black the edges, then blind-bake
peppercorns (see cook’s notes p168) for
Whipped cream, to serve 20 minutes, remove paper
SPELT SHORTCRUST and weights and bake until
150 gm (1 cup) wholemeal light golden (5-10 minutes).
spelt flour 4 Reduce oven to 160°C.
150 gm (1 cup) plain flour Combine eggs, cream, nutmeg,
150 gm chilled butter, diced pepper and remaining sugar to
2 tbsp caster sugar taste in a bowl and whisk to
combine, add pumpkin and stir
1 For spelt shortcrust, pulse to combine, then pass through
ingredients and a pinch of salt a coarse sieve. Pour into tart
in a food processor until fine crust and bake until just set
crumbs form. Transfer to a large (30-40 minutes). Cool briefly,
bowl and, mixing with your then serve warm or at room
hands, add 120ml chilled water temperature with whipped
a little at a time until dough just cream and sprinkled with
comes together. Shape into a rapadura sugar.
disc, wrap in plastic wrap and Note Whitney says her pumpkin
refrigerate for 1 hour to rest. of choice here is tufy acorn
2 Preheat oven to 180°C. Place squash, but the recipe is
pumpkin pieces on a baking tray, forgiving; add sugar where
dot with butter, sprinkle with necessary. Spelt flour is available
2 tbsp rapadura sugar and bake, from select supermarkets and
health-food shops.
Wine suggestion Grand old
treacly topaque (tokay). ●
Caramel pumpkin pie

All props stylist’s own.
Vanilla
custard and
burnt-tofee tart
p
Fo o d p r
epa
rat
ion
Filled with fruit M
AX
or dark-chocolate A
D
E
ganache, or quivering
Y
M
with just-set custard,
er
ch
tarts are one of life’s
an
dis
simple pleasures.
ing
Dust the bench and
RO S
get ready to roll.
IE MEEHAN
Rhubarb
galette
p 114
ec
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es
an
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ing
L I SA
F E AT H E R BY
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Pho
Lemon- 400 ml well-shaken buttermilk 1 For pâte sablée, place flour base with eggwhite, bake for
6 large egg yolks on a work surface, add sugar 1 minute to seal, then reserve
buttermilk tart 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar and butter and rub in butter until required.
SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 20 MINS 90 gm butter, melted and with your fingertips until coarse 3 Meanwhile, blend buttermilk,
// COOK 50 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING) cooled crumbs form. Add yolks, 2 tbsp yolks, sugar, butter, lemon rind
Finely grated rind of iced water and a pinch of salt and juice, flour, vanilla and
A fresh spin on a custard
1½ lemons, plus 2 tbsp and lightly knead with the heel ¾ tsp salt in a food processor
tart that’s rich but kept in line
lemon juice of your hand until the pastry just until combined. Transfer to
by the sourness of lemons and
1½ tbsp plain flour comes together. Flatten into a a jug and allow foam to settle
buttermilk. Pâte sablée can
1 tsp vanilla bean paste disc, wrap in plastic wrap and (20-30 minutes), then skim
be diicult to work with if it
40 gm (½ cup) roasted flaked refrigerate to rest (2 hours). Roll foam from top and discard.
warms up; if it is a warm day,
almonds, to serve out pastry on a lightly floured 4 Reduce oven to 175°C.
consider rolling the pastry out
Pure icing sugar, for dusting surface to 5mm-thick round Place tart base on an oven tray,
between two sheets of baking
PÂTE SABLÉE and line a 28cm-diameter transfer to oven, then carefully
paper, then chilling it briefly
250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour loose-bottomed fluted tart tin, pour buttermilk mixture into tart
again before lining the tin.
60 gm pure icing sugar, sifted then refrigerate to rest (1 hour). case and bake until just set with
200 gm chilled butter, diced 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. a slight wobble in the centre
2 egg yolks, plus 1 beaten Blind-bake tart until golden (20-25 minutes). Set aside
eggwhite for brushing on the edges (15-20 minutes; to cool to room temperature
see cook’s notes p168), (1½-2 hours), then top with
remove paper and weights flaked almonds and dust with
and bake until golden and icing sugar to serve.
crisp (5-7 minutes), then brush
Squished apple tart
Pastry, caramelised apple and ice-cream is a combination that’s pretty

hard to beat. This is more or less a fine apple tart, but the apple goes
just that bit further to become almost like an apple-sauce topping.
Half a 375gm sheet of 1 Preheat oven to 190°C. Roll a rectangle the same size from oven, then remove top
butter puff pastry (see note) out pastry on a lightly floured as the pastry (trim edges). tray and baking paper.
4 large Granny Smith apples, surface to a 3mm-thick rectangle Sprinkle 50gm sugar over 4 Heat oven grill to high.
peeled, cored and halved and cut out a 20cm x 30cm apple and dot with butter, Dust tart with remaining
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar rectangle. Place on an oven tray then bake until apple softens sugar, cover edges with foil
10 gm unsalted butter lined with baking paper, top with (8-10 minutes). to prevent burning, and grill
Vanilla ice-cream, to serve a sheet of baking paper and 3 Top apple with pastry, another until caramelised (1-3 minutes).
another tray. Bake until golden sheet of baking paper and an Cut tart into slices and serve
and crisp (18-22 minutes). oven tray, flip over so the tart is with ice-cream.
2 Meanwhile, cut apple inverted with the apple on top, Note We’ve used Carême puf
halves into 2mm-thick slices then weight top with a small pastry. Remaining pastry can
with a mandolin and arrange ovenproof saucepan and bake be reserved for another use. ➤
in rows on an oven tray lined until apple is soft and pastry is
with baking paper to form crisp. (8-10 minutes). Remove
PREVIOUS PAGE
Custard tart
Surface from Di
Lorenzo. Rhubarb
galette Surface
from Earp Bros. All
other props stylist’s
own. Apple tart All
Lemon-buttermilk
tart Surface from Di
Lorenzo. All other
Stockists p168.
Salted-caramel macadamia tart 1 For pâte brisée, place flour
on a work surface, add sugar
with chocolate ganache and butter and rub in butter
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING, CHILLING) with your fingertips until coarse
This tart is made with pâte brisée, a shortcrust pastry that crumbs form. Add egg, 2 tbsp
works for sweet or savoury preparations. It’s not a sweet cold iced water and a pinch of
pastry, so it balances the sweetness of the caramel. salt and lightly knead with the
heel of your hand until the
200 gm roasted macadamia pastry just comes together.
nuts, coarsely chopped Flatten into a disc, wrap in
1 eggwhite, beaten, plastic wrap and refrigerate to
for brushing rest (2 hours). Knead briefly
Sea salt flakes, to serve to bring pastry together, then
PÂTE BRISÉE roll out to a 32cm round on
250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour a lightly floured surface and
Pinch of caster sugar line a 24cm-diameter loose-
125 gm chilled butter, diced bottomed fluted tart tin and
1 egg, plus 1 beaten eggwhite refrigerate to rest (1 hour).
for brushing 2 Preheat oven to 190°C.
SALTED CARAMEL Blind-bake tart until golden
200 gm caster sugar on the edges (18-20 minutes;
120 ml heavy cream (45% fat) see cook’s notes p168), remove
100 gm chilled unsalted paper and weights and
butter, diced bake until golden and crisp
CHOCOLATE GANACHE (8-12 minutes). Brush base with
300 gm dark chocolate eggwhite, bake for 1 minute to
(53%-60% cocoa solids), seal, then remove from oven
finely chopped and scatter macadamia nuts
30 gm butter evenly over the base.
250 ml (1 cup) pouring cream 3 For salted caramel, stir sugar
1 tbsp liquid glucose and 60ml water in a saucepan
over medium heat until sugar
dissolves, then brush down
edges of pan with a wet pastry
brush to remove sugar crystals
and cook, without stirring but
swirling often when it starts to
colour, until a golden-amber
caramel forms (10-14 minutes).
Add cream (be careful, hot
caramel will spit), and stir until it
comes together. Remove from
heat and stir through butter
and 1 tsp salt. Pour into the tart
shell and refrigerate to cool
(30-40 minutes; see note).
4 For chocolate ganache, place
chocolate and butter in a large
heatproof bowl and set aside.
Bring cream and glucose to the
boil in a saucepan, then pour
over the chocolate, stirring to
melt and combine. Remove
from heat and allow to cool,
stirring occasionally, until glossy
(15 minutes). Pour the ganache
over the salted caramel,
then refrigerate or stand in
a cool place until set (1 hour).
Serve with flakes of sea salt
scattered on top.
Note If the weather is cool and
dry, the tart can sit out to set; it
will take about 2 hours.
Grape tart Surface
from Di Lorenzo.
Caramel-chocolate
tart Spatula from
Chefs’ Warehouse.
Mukumono bowl
from Koskela. Moov
Ivory surface from
Earp Bros. All other
Stockists p168.
Grape and rapadura tart

SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING, CHILLING, COOLING)
Think of this as step up from a good old-fashioned glazed-fruit tart – the

sweet custard base has a slight caramel taste from rapadura sugar and then
is topped with lightly glazed grapes. This tart is best assembled just before
serving, but all the components can be prepped and ready to go beforehand.
650 gm seedless red grapes 1 For sweet pastry, beat 2 Meanwhile, for pastry cream, bowl and refrigerate, tossing
(about 800gm with stalks) butter in an electric mixer whisk yolks and sugar in a occasionally, until chilled
50 gm caster sugar until pale, add sugar and stir large bowl until pale, add flour (30-40 minutes).
60 ml (¼ cup) freshly to combine, then add yolks and whisk to combine. Bring 4 Preheat oven to 190°C.
squeezed orange juice and 1 tbsp iced water and milk and vanilla to a simmer Blind-bake tart case until light
Juice of ½ lemon stir to combine. Sift in flour in a saucepan over high heat, golden (15-20 minutes; see
Finely grated lemon rind and stir to just combine, then add to yolk mixture, whisk cook’s notes p168). Remove
and pure icing sugar, to turn out onto a lightly floured to combine, then return to paper and weights and bake
serve surface and lightly knead until pan and whisk continuously until golden (5-10 minutes).
SWEET PASTRY it just comes together. Flatten over medium-high heat until Cool until just firm, then remove
180 gm softened butter into a disc, wrap in plastic bubbling and thick (2-4 minutes). from tin and cool completely
40 gm (¼ cup) pure icing wrap and refrigerate until Transfer to a bowl, cover on a wire rack (30 minutes).
sugar, sifted chilled (1 hour). Roll out pastry surface directly with plastic wrap 5 To serve, whisk pastry cream
2 egg yolks on a lightly floured surface and cool to room temperature, to soften, spoon or pipe into tart
250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour or between sheets of baking then refrigerate to firm up case, top with grapes and lemon
RAPADURA PASTRY CREAM paper to a 32cm round. Line (1 hour or overnight). rind and dust with icing sugar.
7 egg yolks a buttered and floured 3 Combine grapes, sugar Note Tart or cake rings
150 gm rapadura sugar 22cm-diameter, 5cm-high and orange and lemon juice are available from select
50 gm (⅓ cup) plain flour tart ring (see note) placed on in a wide saucepan over kitchenware shops. ➤
600 ml milk an oven tray lined with baking high heat and toss until sugar
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds paper. Trim edges, dock base has dissolved and grapes
scraped with a fork and refrigerate to are glossy, but not cooked
rest (1 hour). (5 minutes). Transfer to a
Vanilla custard and burnt-tofee tart
SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING, CHILLING)
A blowtorch will give best results with the tofee crust here, although a hot grill will work in a
pinch. Either way, the heat will soften the custard, so it’s best to let it firm up in the fridge for half
an hour before cutting it. We’re not ruling out cracking the crust and digging in straight away –
just know that things could get messy, so have plenty of napkins on hand. Pictured p108.
Caster sugar, for dusting 1 For sweet pastry, place flour fluted tart tin, trim edges paper and weights and bake
SWEET PASTRY on a work surface, add sugar and chill until firm (2 hours). until golden (5-6 minutes).
250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour and butter and rub in butter 2 For vanilla custard, whisk Reduce oven to 140°C, brush
60 gm pure icing sugar, sifted with your fingertips until egg yolks and sugar in a bowl base with eggwhite, bake for
100 gm chilled butter, coarsely coarse crumbs form. Add yolks, to combine. Add creams and 1 minute to seal, then pour
chopped 2 tbsp iced water and a pinch vanilla and whisk to combine, cream mixture into pastry
2 egg yolks, plus 1 beaten of salt and lightly knead with then transfer to a jug and case and bake until just set
eggwhite, for brushing the heel of your hand until the refrigerate until froth settles with a very slight wobble in
VANILLA CUSTARD pastry just comes together. (30 minutes), then skim froth the centre (40-50 minutes).
8 egg yolks Flatten into a disc, wrap in from surface and strain mixture Cool to room temperature,
280 gm caster sugar plastic wrap and refrigerate to through a fine sieve. then refrigerate to chill (1 hour).
350 gm double cream rest (2 hours). Roll out pastry on 3 Preheat oven to 190°C. Dust with sugar and caramelise
270 ml pouring cream a lightly floured surface to 5mm Blind-bake tart until golden on top with a blowtorch. Serve
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds thick and line a 23cm-diameter, the edges (15-20 minutes; see warm, or refrigerate to firm
scraped 3-3.5cm-deep loose-bottomed cook’s notes p168), remove up (30 minutes) before serving.
Rhubarb galette
SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)
We’ve arranged the rhubarb in a herringbone pattern here, but change it up as you wish. Try placing
shorter strips in a check pattern, or longer pieces in rows for something diferent. Pictured p109.
200 gm caster sugar 1 For sweet pastry, place flour heat. Add rhubarb and simmer, 4 Warm the edges of the pastry
Juice of ½ lemon on a work surface, add sugar turning gently, until sugar with your fingertips until pliable,
800 gm rhubarb stalks (about and butter and rub in butter is almost dissolved and then fold it over the edge of the
1½ bunches), trimmed and with your fingertips until coarse rhubarb is glossy, but still rhubarb, pleating as you go.
cut into 7.5cm lengths crumbs form. Add yolks, firm (2-3 minutes). Refrigerate Brush pastry edge with beaten
Demerara sugar, for 2 tbsp iced water and a pinch in syrup to chill (1 hour). egg, then scatter demerara
scattering of salt and lightly knead with the 3 Preheat oven to 190°C. all over tart. Bake until golden
Vanilla ice-cream or cream, heel of your hand until the pastry For hazelnut base, pulse and rhubarb is cooked
to serve just comes together. Flatten into ingredients in a food processor (20-25 minutes). Serve hot
SWEET PASTRY a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and until coarsely chopped. Scatter with ice-cream or cream and
250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour refrigerate to rest (2 hours). Roll over pastry, leaving a 5cm drizzled with a little reserved
60 gm pure icing sugar, sifted out on a lightly floured surface border, then arrange drained rhubarb syrup.
100 gm chilled butter, coarsely or between 2 sheets of baking rhubarb (reserve syrup) on top
chopped paper to a 40cm round, then in a zig-zag pattern to form a
2 egg yolks, plus trim to a neat 36cm-diameter 30cm circle surrounded by
1 beaten egg for eggwash circle. Transfer to an oven tray a 3cm border of pastry (trim the
HAZELNUT BASE lined with baking paper and edge pieces to fit – the pastry
80 gm peeled and roasted refrigerate until firm (1 hour). will fold over the edge).
hazelnuts 2 Combine caster sugar,
50 gm caster sugar lemon juice and 200ml water
Finely grated rind in a large saucepan over high
of 1 lemon
Tarte Tatin Dot
& Co. plate from
Koskela. Pallares
Solsana kitchen
knife and Wabi
Sabi jug from The
Lost and Found
Department.
Surface from Di
Lorenzo. Text page
Surface from Di
Lorenzo. All other
Stockists p168.
Pear tarte Tatin

SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS STANDING)
A tarte Tatin is fast, simple, and always a pleasure to eat. For this pear
version, we’ve poached the pears quickly to infuse them with flavour;
if they’re slightly underripe, it’ll also help soften them. Poaching the pears
ahead will make this even easier to throw together, just keep them in
the fridge out of the syrup. Either way, it’s important the pears are dried
well before they’re added to the caramel – excess liquid will dilute it.
65 gm caster sugar 1 For poached pears, combine heat until sugar begins to 4 Remove pan from oven and
40 gm butter, coarsely sugar, orange rind and 500ml dissolve and caramelise around tilt pan to drain extra juices
chopped water in a saucepan over high the edges (1-2 minutes). Swirl carefully into a bowl. Stand for
Three-quarters of a heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. pan occasionally until sugar 2 minutes, then place a large
375gm sheet of butter Reduce heat to medium, add caramelises (1-2 minutes). plate on top of the pan and
puff pastry (see note) pears, bring to a simmer and Add butter, swirl to combine shake to loosen tart. Working
Pouring cream or vanilla cook until pears are infused (20-30 seconds), then turn of quickly and very carefully,
ice-cream, to serve and very slightly softened heat and arrange pears, cut-side protecting yourself from the
POACHED PEARS (5 minutes). Remove pears, up, over caramel. Cover with hot handle and the hot caramel,
400 gm caster sugar pat completely dry with pastry, then quickly tuck edges invert the tart onto the plate.
3 thin strips of orange rind, paper towels. into side of pan with a spoon. Serve hot with reserved juices
removed with a peeler 2 Roll out pastry to a 25cm 3 Score pastry 2-3 times and cream or ice-cream with
4 corella pears, ripe but firm, round, then trim to a 22cm in the centre to allow steam extra caramel to drizzle over.
cored and halved round. Chill until needed. to escape, then bake until Note We’ve used Carême puf
Preheat oven to 200°C. Scatter pastry is crisp, dark golden pastry. Remaining pastry can
sugar over the base of a 20cm and pufed (15-20 minutes; be frozen and reserved for
cast-iron or heavy stainless-steel cover with foil if pastry is another use. ●
frying pan and cook over high becoming too dark on top).
PRINCIPLE
PLEASURES
It ain’t just pizza and it ain’t just salad. Melbourne’s
Harley & Rose is serving the best of both and
so much more in a smart-casual setting where
good times with good friends just roll.
Recipes JOSH MURPHY & RORY COWCHER
Photography MARK ROPER
Prime-rib minute
steak, spiced
eggplant and
lemon couscous
p 124
Styling LISA FEATHERBY
Drink suggestions MARK WILLIAMSON

It took a couple of months of fine-tuning to get it right,
but we can safely say that we were able to make an original
dough recipe to add to the eight million others out there.”
Not all the dishes spent so long in development.
The roasted carrot salad came into being because
they had huge heirloom carrots delivered at the same
time they had a surfeit of chillies in the storeroom. They had
intended to grill the carrots but, because of the size, tossed
them into the pizza oven to roast slowly and then, to use up
some of the chillies, made a fermented sauce. Instant hit.
The lamb meatballs came about because Murphy
loved the spicing of the lamb sausages that Ish Tosun used
to make at his now-closed restaurant Gigibaba, while
Cowcher created the risoni for the dish.
“Once we found the site and the idea, getting the
recipes and the menu together was really quite easy,”
says Cowcher.
Murphy agrees, “It was like we suddenly saw that having
pizza and salad was one of the best things you could eat.”
Harley & Rose, 572 Barkly St, West Footscray, Vic,
(03) 8320 0325, harleyandrose.net.au
Harley & Rose owner-chefs
Rory Cowcher (left) and
Josh Murphy.
W
ho said that good things never come
from a hangover? Chefs Josh Murphy
and Rory Cowcher, alumni from Andrew
McConnell’s stable of restaurants, were
in the US researching ideas for the business they wanted
to open together in Melbourne’s west. Then they made
a stopover in Austin, Texas, for the South by Southwest
festival. Eight days later, a little over-refreshed, they flew
to New York and staggered into Roberta’s, the pizza
joint in Brooklyn.
“We had a bottle of red wine, charcuterie, amazing
salads and a pizza, and that way of eating struck a chord
with both of us,” says Murphy. “It wasn’t something
we’d considered doing because what we’d previously
done was a bit more restaurant, a bit more refined. So
this was where the idea for Harley & Rose really came
from. We agreed that this is one of the best meals we’d
had in months and maybe it was something that we
needed to look at.”
Simplicity is at the core of Harley & Rose, something
that’s apparent in the recipes Murphy and Cowcher
shared with a group of their friends for this month’s issue.
Given their experience at Roberta’s, pizza was always
going to feature. The West Footscray site came with a
pizza oven (although they replaced it with a custom-built
wood-fired Polito), but neither chef had much experience
making bread so “knowledge was limited and most
mistakes that could have been made, were”.
“We knew what we wanted to achieve in the end,
which was a crisp base and a chewy crust,” says Cowcher.
“We talked with Mike Russell from Baker Bleu in
Elsternwick about flour options and this was our starting
point. We did small-batch trials at home in our ovens and
barbecues while we were renovating the restaurant.
Gorgonzola croquettes
and quince ketchup
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING, SETTING, DRYING)
“This recipe was based on one a Brazilian friend of mine showed

me where he cooked tapioca with a salty cheese that was a bit
like haloumi,” says Josh Murphy. “I changed the cheese to
Gorgonzola dolcelatte, which gives it all a funkier saltiness.”
Begin this recipe a day ahead to set the croquette mixture.
Canola oil, for greasing in a saucepan over very 2 For quince ketchup, blend Drain on paper towels, season
and deep-frying low heat until tapioca absorbs quince paste, 1 tbsp warm water to taste and transfer to serving
500 ml (2 cups) milk all the milk (6-8 minutes). and 2 tsp salt in a blender. With plates. Sprinkle with Espelette
150 gm tapioca pearls Add the haloumi, stir until motor running, slowly add pepper and serve hot with
150 gm haloumi, finely grated melted (4 minutes), then add vinegar and blend until smooth. quince ketchup.
40 gm Gorgonzola dolcelatte, Gorgonzola dolcelatte, season 3 Turn tapioca out onto an oiled Note Espelette pepper, a
crumbled to taste with salt and freshly sheet of baking paper placed on French chilli powder, is available
Espelette pepper, to serve ground white pepper and a board. Remove top paper and from select delicatessens and
(see note) stir to combine. Pour into tray, cut tapioca into 3.5cm squares online from herbies.com.au.
ALL PROPS RESTAURANT’S OWN
QUINCE KETCHUP top with a lightly oiled piece with a hot, wet knife. Substitute cayenne.
150 gm quince paste, at room of baking paper, oil-side down 4 Heat canola oil in a large, Wine suggestion A full and
temperature and press to spread evenly deep frying pan to 170°C. Fry flavoursome white such as the
50 ml balsamic vinegar in tray. Cool (40 minutes), then croquettes, in batches and 2017 Moonlit Forest Chardonnay
refrigerate until firm (4 hours keeping space between each, from the Yarra Valley. ➤
1 Oil a 25cm x 30cm tray or overnight). Remove baking and turn occasionally until light
and line with baking paper. paper and leave uncovered golden (1-1½ minutes – any
Stir milk and tapioca pearls to dry (overnight). longer and they may burst).
Lamb meatballs, risoni, yoghurt pepper, then form into walnut-
sized balls (about 50gm each).
and cucumber 3 Cook risoni in a large
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS saucepan of boiling salted water
“We were looking for a simple main course for Harley & Rose,” says until al dente (7-8 minutes).
Murphy. “I was thinking about the lamb sausages that I used to eat Drain, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive
at Gigibaba, and Rory had come to me and said: ‘do you like risoni?’ oil and set aside to cool.
I really like it. It’s uncool to like it, but I do. Rory suggested it could 4 Wrap cucumbers in a clean
be the basis of the best pasta salad around, but then we thought tea towel and lightly crush with
about the lamb and the two things seemed to belong together.” a rolling pin. Cut lengthwise at
1cm intervals, drain of excess
juice and set aside.
240 gm risoni ½ cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf 5 Preheat oven to 170°C. Heat
80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil, plus parsley, finely chopped a frying pan over high heat,
extra to serve 1 garlic clove, crushed add remaining oil and brown
2 Lebanese cucumbers YOGHURT DRESSING meatballs in two batches
Juice of 1½ lemons 300 gm plain yoghurt, drained (6-8 minutes per batch). Transfer
3 spring onions, thinly sliced overnight in a sieve lined to a baking dish and roast until
1 cup (firmly packed) mint with muslin, 30ml whey cooked (8-10 minutes). Remove Note Dandelion leaves are
Dandelion leaves (optional; reserved from oven and drizzle with a available from farmer’s markets
see note), to serve 70 ml extra-virgin olive oil third of the lemon juice. and select greengrocers. Biber
LAMB MEATBALLS Juice of 1 lemon 6 Combine risoni, spring onions, salcasi, a red pepper paste, is
900 gm coarsely minced lamb cucumber and half the mint in a available from Turkish and
with a good amount of fat, 1 For dressing, whisk yoghurt bowl. Add remaining lemon juice Middle Eastern grocers. Turkish
preferably from the shoulder and whey in a bowl, slowly and half the yoghurt, season chilli flakes are available from
50 gm finely grated Grana adding the oil until smooth. to taste and toss to coat and essentialingredient.com.au.
Padano Add lemon juice, season to combine. Divide risoni salad Wine suggestion A textured
¼ red onion, finely chopped taste, then add a little water to and meatballs among serving and layered white matches
1 heaped tbsp ground cumin thin to a drizzling consistency. bowls, drizzle with remaining well with this dish. The
1 tsp biber salcasi (see note) 2 For meatballs, combine dressing and olive oil and 2017 Borachio “Gold Tooth”
2 tsp Turkish chilli flakes ingredients in a bowl with 2 tsp scatter with dandelion leaves sauvignon blanc blend from
(see note) sea salt and 1½ tsp ground black and remaining mint to serve. the Adelaide Hills, say. ➤
Grilled radicchio and

orange salad with Grand
Marnier vinaigrette
p 122
Lamb meatballs,
risoni, yoghurt
and cucumber
Pizza diavola
p123
Roasted carrot salad, pepper 600 gm large heirloom carrots, Use immediately or, preferably,
longer carrots halved leave to ferment at room
sauce, olive oil and curd lengthways temperature for 1 week.
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 55 MINS 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, 2 For caramelised pumpkin
“We ordered some carrots from our farmer, Robbie, and he plus extra to drizzle seeds, preheat oven to 160°C.
brought us these monsters that were about 16 times the Lemon juice, to season Combine sherry vinegar, sugar
size we were expecting,” says Rory Cowcher. “Because they 300 gm goat’s curd and 1 heaped tsp salt in a bowl.
were so big, we roasted them slowly in the pizza oven. They ¼ cup coarsely chopped Add pepitas, stir to coat
came out beautifully. I like when the Italians string up flat-leaf parsley thoroughly, then bake on an
chillies and dry them, so I ordered all these chillies, but it PEPPER SAUCE oven tray lined with baking
took so long to string them that I didn’t want to do any 2 red capsicums, split and paper until golden brown
more, so I made a fermented chilli sauce instead. The seeds removed (25-30 minutes). Cool, then
carrots came in and everybody was complaining about the 7 large red chillies, seeds break up pepitas, add caraway
chillies taking up too much room, so one of our favourite removed from half seeds and toss to combine.
dishes was born out of necessity and lack of space.” 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil Store in an airtight container
CARAMELISED PUMPKIN SEEDS until required.
15 ml sherry vinegar 3 Increase oven to 220°C.
15 gm caster sugar Drizzle carrots with oil, season to
50 gm pepitas taste and roast on a baking tray
⅛ tsp ground caraway seeds until tender and golden brown
(30-35 minutes). Season to taste
1 For pepper sauce, preheat with salt and lemon juice.
oven to 220°C. Roast capsicum 4 Fold 50ml water into goat’s
and chillies on oven trays curd in a bowl, then slowly add
until softened and browned extra-virgin olive oil, whisking
(20-25 minutes). Weigh roasted to emulsify. Divide curd among
peppers and add one per cent dishes. Toss carrots in a bowl
of the weight in salt (for example, with 125ml pepper sauce
for 450gm roasted peppers, (remainder will keep refrigerated
add 4.5gm salt), then blend in a for several months), parsley and
blender until smooth. Transfer pumpkin seeds. Top curd with
to a sterilised jar (see cook’s carrot mixture and drizzle with
notes p168), add oil and seal. olive oil to serve.
Grilled radicchio and orange salad

with Grand Marnier vinaigrette
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 5-10 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
“I’ve always loved radicchio,” says Cowcher. “I was given an Italian

cookbook when I was young and hadn’t seen grilled radicchio
before. I tried it and found that with salt, olive oil and lemon juice,
it’s outrageously delicious. We ran it through the wood-fired oven
– Josh was pleased and I was relieved.” Pictured p120.
20 ml Grand Marnier while blending, gradually add

1 tbsp sherry vinegar oil until thick and emulsified.
1 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 Preheat a barbecue or
1 tbsp caster sugar char-grill pan to high heat.
½ small garlic clove, crushed Blanch radicchio in salted boiling
125 ml blended vegetable oil water (1 minute; see cook’s notes
1 head of radicchio, quartered p168). Drain on paper towels,
through the stalk to hold it toss in a bowl with oil and salt
Olive oil, for drizzling to taste and grill until charred
1 orange, peeled, quartered (4 minutes per cut side). Return
and sliced to bowl with orange and shallots,
2 golden shallots, thinly sliced season with ground black
and blanched and refreshed pepper to taste, toss to combine
(see cook’s notes p168) and serve drizzled with dressing.
Wine suggestion An aromatic
1 Blend Grand Marnier, sherry pinot from the Yarra Valley,
vinegar, mustard, sugar and such as Payten & Jones 2016
garlic with a hand-held blender "VV" Pinot Noir.
on high speed to combine, then,
Pizza diavola 2 Strain tomato (reserve juice 4 In batches, invert dough
MAKES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS RESTING, PROVING, HYDRATION) for another use; it’s good for onto a floured surface. Heavily
Bloody Marys), then press flour the top, then flatten to a
“What makes this great to eat is the fermentation time,” says through a colander into a bowl. 30cm round, pushing outwards
Cowcher. “If you refrigerate the water before making the dough, Add oil, season to taste with salt from the centre using your
and add an extra day resting in the fridge, you’ll get a more and stir to combine. fingers, without pressing
sourdough-tasting result, so you need to begin this recipe an 3 Preheat oven to 230°C or on the edge so you get a good
extra day ahead to prove the dough.” Pictured p121. highest setting and preheat a crust. If you have a pizza slide,
pizza stone (see note). Portion assemble on a well-floured
300 gm canned peeled tomatoes 1 For dough, combine oil, dough into six on a lightly bench; if you don’t, transfer
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra yeast and 2 tbsp lukewarm floured surface. Working with bases to a floured pizza tray with
to serve water in a bowl to dissolve one piece at a time, place lightly holes to assemble (see note).
120 gm thinly sliced hot salami yeast. Combine flour and 1 tbsp floured hands around the dough Brush 2cm around the edge with
1-2 pickled jalapeños, or to taste salt in a bowl and make a well and pull it towards you along olive oil for a crisp crust. Spread
200 gm thinly sliced scamorza, in the centre. Add 680ml water the bench so the leading edge tomato mixture to reach edge of
diced and yeast mixture to well and pulls under. Rotate, tucking crust, place salami slices on top,
PIZZA DOUGH mix with your hands to form edges under, and repeat to form touching but not overlapping,
2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil, a sticky dough (3-4 minutes). a smooth ball – the aim is to then jalapeños, then scatter with
plus extra for brushing Cover with plastic wrap to create tension in the dough. cheese. Transfer to pizza stone
2 tsp dried yeast, or 20gm hydrate (15 minutes), then Repeat with remaining dough, with a pizza slide or transfer tray
fresh yeast knead on a lightly floured transfer to a greased tray, onto stone in oven and bake
1.1 kg stoneground baker’s bench until smooth (2 minutes). cover loosely with greased until pufed and golden brown
flour, plus extra for dusting Return to bowl, cover with plastic wrap and rest at room (10 minutes). Season to taste
(see note) plastic wrap and refrigerate temperature until doubled in with salt and olive oil and serve.
to ferment (24 hours). size (1½-2 hours). Note At Harley & Rose, the chefs
add a small amount of Khorasan
(kamut) flour to the dough, it’s
available from select health-food
stores; if available, substitute for
50gm of the baker’s flour. If you
don’t have a pizza stone or a
pizza tray, heat a couple of
heavy steel baking trays in the
oven and you’ll end with a good
crisp crust.
Wine suggestion You can’t go
past a crisp Australian lager,
such as Napoleone Helles. ➤
Left (from left): Campbell
Burton, Mark Williamson, Stella
Tan, Rory Cowcher, Iain Ling,
Kim Cowcher, Josh Murphy,
Troy Wheeler, Brittney Wheeler.
Prime-rib minute steak, spiced eggplant 2 Preheat oven to 180°C.

Fry onion in oil in a saucepan
until the water is absorbed
(10-12 minutes). Drain, transfer
and lemon couscous over medium heat until soft to a bowl with remaining
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR and starting to caramelise ingredients and season to taste
(10-12 minutes). Add garlic and with salt, olive oil and lemon
“Josh and I came up with this dish when we first got the keys to fry until soft (2 minutes), then juice. Divide among plates.
the restaurant,” says Cowcher. “We had friends around to help with add spices and stir for a further 5 Preheat a barbecue (ideally
some painting, cooked this up and were pretty happy with it. With minute until fragrant and starting wood or coal) or char-grill pan
a few minor changes it ended up on the menu.” Pictured p117. to catch on the pan. Add tomato to high. Season rib-eyes to taste
and herbs and simmer, stirring then grill one side only until
3 beef rib-eye (about 350gm 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin occasionally, until flavours are juices release (3-4 minutes).
each), bone in, halved olive oil combined (10-12 minutes). Immediately place directly
through the bone (see note) COUSCOUS 3 Drain eggplant and pat onto couscous seared-side up.
1 onion, thinly sliced 300 gm pearl couscous dry with paper towels. Pour Rather than resting the meat,
1 tbsp neutral-flavoured oil, Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste drained tomato juice onto the idea is to let the delicious
such as vegetable oil 1 tbsp olive oil, or to taste an oven tray, spread eggplant juices soak into the couscous.
1 garlic clove, finely chopped ½ preserved lemon, flesh over it and bake until softened Spread a few spoons of
1 tsp ground cumin and pith removed, peel (20-25 minutes). Spread spiced eggplant on top and serve.
1 tsp ground coriander thinly sliced tomato mixture over eggplant, Note Ask your butcher to
800 gm canned whole tomatoes, ¼ cup coarsely chopped drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, prepare the steaks for you; they
strained through a sieve, flat-leaf parsley season to taste and bake until may need to be ordered ahead.
liquid reserved separately very soft and liquid is reduced Wine suggestion A light red with
¼ cup (loosely packed) mint, 1 Place rib-eyes between two to a thick paste (40-45 minutes). bright fruit and a hint of funk,
thinly sliced pieces of baking paper, and Cool, then finely chop eggplant. such as the 2017 Commune of
¼ cup coarsely chopped dill pound to 0.5cm thick, or as 4 For couscous, add couscous Buttons “Field of Sparrows”,
3 eggplants, sliced about thin as possible, with a meat to 1 litre water in a saucepan, from Adelaide Hills.
2.5cm thick and lightly mallet. Leave to come to room bring to the boil, then reduce
salted for 20 minutes temperature (20 minutes). heat to low and cook uncovered
H ’n’ R banana royale 4 Whisk cream, sugar and
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS 1 tsp salt in a bowl to soft
peaks. Transfer to a piping
“We like to preserve our own cherries,” says Cowcher. “But bag (ideally with a star nozzle)
if they aren’t in season and you haven’t preserved any in and refrigerate until required.
advance, we suggest using Luxardo preserved cherries.” 5 Halve bananas lengthways
with skin on and coat cut sides
400 ml pouring cream in an ice-cream machine, then generously with brown sugar.
60 gm caster sugar transfer to an airtight container Heat a frying pan over high heat,
6 slightly underripe bananas and freeze. Makes 1 litre. then add bananas in batches,
100 gm brown sugar 2 For chocolate sauce, stir cut-side down, and cook without
Maraschino cherries and ingredients with 1 tbsp hot moving until sugar caramelises
syrup (see note), to serve water in a saucepan until melted and skin darkens around edge
COCONUT SORBET and smooth (5-7 minutes), then (4-6 minutes). Cool briefly.
400 ml coconut milk (see note) whisk to combine. Set aside 6 Pipe cream into bowls or
125 gm caster sugar at room temperature, or if into banana-split boats and top
Juice of ½ lime made ahead, reheat very with peeled bananas, scoops
CHOCOLATE SAUCE gently to serve. of sorbet, chocolate sauce,
75 gm dark chocolate pieces 3 For candied nuts, preheat cherries, a drizzle of cherry
25 gm caster sugar oven to 165°C and warm nuts on liquid and a sprinkle of crushed
2 tbsp thickened cream an oven tray lined with baking Brazil nuts. Serve immediately.
15 gm unsalted butter paper (5 minutes). Meanwhile, Note Luxardo maraschino
CANDIED BRAZIL NUTS combine glucose, sugar and a cherries are available from
60 gm Brazil nuts large pinch of salt in a large select delicatessens. Cowcher
2 tsp liquid glucose mixing bowl. While still hot, add and Murphy use Kara coconut
Large pinch of caster sugar nuts and mix thoroughly to coat milk for this recipe.
evenly. Return nuts to lined Wine suggestion A rich dessert
1 For coconut sorbet, simmer oven tray and roast, stirring wine with some freshness
100ml coconut milk with sugar, every 10 minutes, until nuts are matches really well; we like
stirring over medium heat until caramelised (30-35 minutes). the 2010 Sorelle Palazzi Vin
sugar dissolves (4-5 minutes), Set aside to cool, then coarsely Santo “Riserva” from Italy. ●
cool, then add remaining chop. Store in an airtight
coconut milk and lime. Churn container until required.
Indian
In The Indian Vegetarian Cookbook, Pushpesh Pant shares the vast
array of vegetable-based recipes from across the subcontinent.
Mixed vegetable and

tamarind curry
p 132
Pooris
128
p
spice
I
ndia is a country and also a sprawling subcontinent, whose on the nature of the vegetable being cooked, and the methods
name is associated with an ancient civilisation. Except used, the ratios of each complementary ingredient should change.
peninsular India, the subcontinent experiences six seasons The recipes in this book are, for the most part, simple home
– spring, summer, monsoon, autumn, beginning of winter recipes that are part of daily Indian fare. A small number belong
and end of winter – and traditional wisdom prescribes specific to the category of festive, celebratory delicacies prepared all over
foods to be consumed in harmony with the seasons. In India there India, and though they are a little more difficult to master, are
are also six, not four, basic tastes – adding pungent and astringent well and truly worth the trouble. There are accompaniments,
to the more globally recognised sour, sweet, salty and bitter. drinks, and several recipes per vegetable, highlighting the
My mother excelled at transforming the quotidian into the diversity of Indian vegetarian cuisine. An everyday meal in a
exotic by improvising on what she had tasted in her life’s journeys. vegetarian household might comprise rice or roti, a dry vegetable
Food cooked at home was an amalgam of different regional curry, and dal, more often than not supplemented with a small
cuisines and reflected the resplendence of a pan-Indian culinary helping of curds or raita, and some pickles or freshly ground green
repertoire. She was a vegetarian by choice and introduced us to chutney. For the evening meal, lentils are usually replaced with a
the colourful, healthy, and flavourful realm of Indian vegetables. vegetable in thick or thin sauce. If guests are being entertained,
In recent years there has been some cross-fertilisation paneer or a mushroom dish may be added.
of ingredients, ideas and techniques, with Indians happily Within this template, great variation is possible. The dry
incorporating recipes from far-flung regions into their daily diet. curry or sauce dish may be a combination of vegetables, while
The emphasis is on small portions, individually distinct, and a variety of tempering transforms the humble dal. The trick is to
a larger number of varied dishes. The central idea remains to pick any single item, and just as my mother did, fuse ingredients
include all six basic tastes, and to have a polychromatic display and techniques from diverse regions and traditions, to impart
of food. My mother taught me to keep in mind that depending your signature on whatever you are cooking.
DUM NADRU POORI
Spicy lotus roots Deep-fried pufed bread

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 25 MINS SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS
“Lotus roots are a delicacy in Kashmir, Punjab and Uttar “Poori is the deep-fried pufed up bread of India that
Pradesh,” says Pushpesh Pant. “In Kashmir they are cooked in a is mentioned in very early texts,” says Pant. “It was,
curd-based gravy and spiced delicately. Stronger spices are and continues to be, cooked at all ritual feasts as it
used in the Punjab where they are covered in batter, and fried.” is considered pure.” Pictured p127.
150 gm (⅔ cup) ghee or over medium heat. Add lotus 500 gm wholemeal flour, the balls on a lightly floured
160ml vegetable oil root and potato, and fry, stirring plus extra for dusting surface into discs about 10cm
500 gm lotus roots (see note), occasionally, for 5 minutes or Vegetable oil, for in diameter.
scraped, washed and cut until light brown. Remove from greasing 3 Heat the ghee in a wok or
diagonally into 1cm slices pan and wipe out pan. 500 ml (2 cups) melted ghee a large, deep frying pan over
500 gm potatoes, halved 2 Heat remaining ghee in high heat until smoking hot, then
or thickly sliced the same pan over medium 1 Sift the flour with a pinch reduce heat to medium. Fry the
½ pinch asafoetida (see note) heat, add the asafoetida, of salt into a large bowl, poori in small batches for about
4 cloves cloves and cumin, and stir-fry make a well in the centre and 1½-2 minutes, carefully pressing
1 tsp cumin seeds for 1 minute, or until seeds gradually mix in 300ml water, them with a slotted spoon to
500 gm peas start to sputter. Return lotus a little at a time, kneading submerge in the hot ghee until
2 small green chillies, seeds root and potato to pan with gently as you go, until you they puf up (be careful, hot oil
removed (optional) and peas, green chilli, remaining can roll the dough into a ball. may spit). Remove and drain on
chopped spices, sugar and 250ml water. Turn the ball of dough out onto paper towels and repeat with
1 tsp ground chilli powder Season to taste with salt and a lightly floured surface and remaining poori. They’re best
2 tsp ground coriander seeds simmer for 15 minutes, tossing knead for about 5 minutes served hot from the pan. ➤
15 gm ginger (about 2.5cm), the vegetables occasionally, to obtain a soft, elastic dough.
chopped until soft. Transfer to a lightly greased
1 tsp ground ginger Note Lotus roots are available bowl, cover and rest for
1 tsp garam masala from select Asian grocers. 30 minutes.
2 tsp white sugar Asafoetida, a powdered gum 2 Divide dough into 12-14 equal
resin with a strong onion-garlic portions and shape into balls,
1 Heat 125gm (½ cup) ghee in flavour, is available from pressing between your palms
a large, heavy-based frying pan Indian grocers. to flatten a little, then roll out
Spicy lotus roots
MOONG AUR PALAK KI DAL
Dal with spinach

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30-35 MINS
“In northern India, lentils are not often enriched with vegetables, while in the
south, sambars usually incorporate seasonal vegetables,” says Pant. “It is only
in Awadh, in the vicinity of Lucknow, that spinach is added to the lentils.”
250 gm (1¾ cups) moong FOR THE TEMPERING lightly with a wooden spoon heat, add all ingredients and
dal (see note), rinsed 1 tbsp vegetable oil or a spatula. Set aside. stir-fry for 1-2 minutes or until
and drained 4 dried red chillies 2 Heat oil in a large frying pan the mustard seeds start to
¼ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp mustard seeds over medium-low heat. Add sputter and the chillies turn a
⅓ cup (80ml) vegetable oil ½ tsp cumin seeds ginger and garlic and stir-fry for shade darker. Pour onto the dal,
or melted ghee 5-6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 minute, then add the spinach cover and simmer for 2 minutes
1 tsp minced ginger 1 sprig fresh curry leaves and cook for 2-3 minutes until or until hot, then serve.
1 tsp minced garlic almost tender. Transfer cooked Note Moong dal, skinned and
250 gm (3 cups) spinach, 1 Bring 500ml water to the spinach mixture to dal, add split mung beans, are available
chopped boil in a large, heavy-based a little water to loosen, then from Indian grocers. ➤
4 small green chillies, saucepan. Add the dal and return to heat and cook, stirring
halved and seeds turmeric and season with occasionally, for 5-6 minutes
removed salt, then reduce the heat until combined. Stir in chilli,
1 small sprig coriander to low and simmer until soft coriander and lemon juice.
leaves, chopped (20-40 minutes). Drain, then 3 For the tempering, heat oil in
Juice of 1 lemon return to the pan and mash a small frying pan over medium
Sesame
potatoes
133
p
SINDHI KARHI
Mixed vegetable
and tamarind curry
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS
// COOK 30 MINS
“While other types of Indian

karhi give prominence to gram
(chickpea) flour, this Sindhi
version gives pride of place
to vegetables,” says Pant.
Pictured p126.
3 tsp vegetable oil

1 tsp cumin seeds
Pinch of asafoetida
(see note)
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
3 tsp chopped ginger
8-10 curry leaves
4-6 small green chillies, seeds
removed and chopped
3-4 dried red chillies
30 gm gram (chickpea) flour
100 gm tamarind paste,
or to taste
1 small zucchini, chopped
2 carrots, sliced
25 green beans, cut into short
lengths
2 tomatoes, chopped
2 potatoes, cut into large dice
1 eggplant, cut into large dice
1 tbsp jaggery, crumbled,
or soft brown sugar
Steamed rice (optional) and
chopped coriander leaves,
to serve
1 Heat oil in a large, heavy-

based frying pan over medium
heat. Add cumin, asafoetida,
fenugreek, ginger, curry
leaves and chillies and stir-fry
for 3 minutes or until lightly
browned. Add gram flour, stir-fry
for a further 3 minutes until
toasted, then remove from heat.
2 Add tamarind paste,
vegetables and 750ml water
(or enough to cover), then
return to a low heat and
cook, stirring frequently, for
25 minutes or until tender. Eggplant in
Season with salt to taste, add yoghurt sauce
jaggery and bring to the boil,
then remove from heat and
serve immediately with rice
and topped with coriander.
Note Asafoetida, a powdered
gum resin with a strong
onion-garlic flavour, is available
from Indian grocers.
DOI BAIGAN
Eggplant in yoghurt sauce

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10-12 MINS // COOK 10-12 MINS
“We once had a neighbour from Orissa, in the residential campus of the University
where I taught, whose mother prepared this mildly spiced, delightfully diferent eggplant
delicacy and also generously shared the recipe,” says Pant. “This soothing dish is one of
the few Indian recipes that isn’t served hot but is enjoyed best at room temperature.”
½ tsp ground turmeric 1 Sprinkle a little salt and until fragrant, then add fried
500 gm small Japanese turmeric over the cut side eggplant and stir to coat. Pour
eggplant, halved, but not of the eggplant and stand in the yoghurt and add chilli
separated at the stem until needed. powder, sugar and remaining
Vegetable oil, for 2 Fill a kadhai (see note) or a turmeric. Season to taste with
deep-frying deep, heavy-based saucepan no salt, and cook, stirring briskly
2 tsp ghee more than one-third full with oil and continuously to avoid
2 tsp cumin seeds, dry- (or use a deep-fryer). Heat oil to curdling but without breaking
roasted and coarsely 180°C, then deep-fry eggplants up eggplant, for 3-4 minutes
ground for 5 minutes or until brown (be until heated and combined.
280 gm (1 cup) thick plain careful, hot oil may spit). Remove Serve at room temperature.
yoghurt or curds, whisked with a slotted spoon and drain Note Ground Kashmiri chilli is
¾ tsp ground Kashmiri chilli on paper towels. available from Indian grocers
powder (see note) 3 Heat the ghee in a large, and online from herbies.com.au.
½ tsp white sugar heavy-based frying pan over A kadhai is an Indian-style wok
medium heat, add cumin and made from cast iron.
cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes
TIL WALE ALOO
Sesame potatoes
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
“Strictly vegetarian Indians have a penchant for potatoes,”

says Pant. “This is a recipe that has travelled from Nepal to
the Terai region of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. White sesame
seeds add a nutty flavour to it, and the pungency of the
dish can be adjusted to personal taste.” Pictured p131.
2 tbsp sesame seeds 2 Stir ground coriander, chilli

1 tsp ground coriander seeds powder and amchoor into 1 tsp
1 tsp hot chilli powder water in a small bowl.
1 tsp amchoor (mango 3 Heat mustard oil in a large,
powder; see note) heavy-based frying pan, add
2 tbsp mustard oil cumin, ginger and green chilli
½ tsp cumin seeds pastes, spice mixture and
½ tsp minced ginger potatoes. Season to taste
½ tsp minced small green with salt and cook, stirring
chilli, plus extra thinly sliced constantly, over medium heat
to serve for 2 minutes until coated and
500 gm chat or cocktail warmed through. Add roasted
potatoes, boiled, peeled sesame seeds and stir to evenly This extract from The Indian
when cool coat the potatoes. Sprinkle over Vegetarian Cookbook by
Pushpesh Pant (Phaidon, hbk,
sliced chilli to serve. $49.95, available 14 May) has
1 Dry-roast sesame seeds in a Note Amchoor is available from been reproduced with minor
small frying pan over low heat, Indian grocers and online from GT style changes.
stirring constantly, until lightly herbies.com.au ●
browned. Transfer to a bowl.
M AY
TRAVEL
Amoy Street,
Singapore
p 146
PHOTOGRAPHY LAURYN ISHAK
Neighbourhood watch
New luxury in China, the hottest street in
Singapore, and the world’s best late-night eats.
Photography ALICIA TAYLOR
CHINA
A project of epic scope, involving the transplanting of an entire forest,
Amanyangyun is the most remarkable hotel opening of 2018. To experience
China with Aman, writes PAT NOURSE, is to get a rarefied glimpse of
a nation trying to understand itself as both market and muse.
W
hat does luxury mean in
China in 2018? The arrival
of Aman in Shanghai seemed
like the perfect place to start
investigating. Where better
to look for clues than the
biggest opening for the most celebrated resort
group in the world in one of China’s richest and
fastest growing cities?
China has at various times in history been the
pinnacle of human civilisation, a place of unmatched
scholarship, wealth and refinement. It’s one of the
few civilisations that has thrived continuously since
antiquity, its roots stretching back as far as 2000BC.
It has also more recently been the site of one of
history’s most devastating cultural catastrophes. In
1966 Mao Zedong instigated the Cultural Revolution
with the intention of strengthening the ideology of
Chinese communism, reinvigorating the revolution,
and eliminating the bourgeois elements he believed
had infiltrated the state. He charged the Red Guards,
a student paramilitary organisation, with destroying
the “four olds”: old ideas, old customs, old habits and
old culture. To wear bourgeois clothes was to invite
beatings in the street. To be an intellectual was to
risk being murdered or driven to suicide. Cats were
slaughtered en masse because they were deemed to
be a symbol of decadence. Simply having the wrong
haircut could get you jailed or killed.
Traditional culture was denounced. Artefacts
and relics were confiscated and destroyed. Vases were
smashed, scrolls burned, museums ransacked and
temples desecrated. One estimate puts the number
of antiques seized at 613,600 – and that was in
Beijing alone. The damage caused to the cultural
heritage of China as a nation between 1966 and
1976 is incalculable.
In 1981, the Communist Party of China, the
nation’s ruling political party, declared that the
Cultural Revolution was the most severe setback
for the country since the founding of the People’s
Republic, and set about reforming the economy.
Money was made and along with it came a private
sector and a middle class. China became the largest
exporter in the world in 2010, the largest trading
nation in 2013, and overtook the US in purchasing PREVIOUS PAGES:
Kunming Lake at the
power in 2014 to become the world’s largest economy. Summer Palace in Beijing.
Now China has money. Its borders are more Clockwise from top:
porous. China’s rich have been rich enough and shopfronts in Lijiang;
inside Wengchang Palace
mobile enough to take a good hard look over the past
in Lijiang Old Town; a villa
40 years at how the rich in the rest of the world like to at Amanyangyun; the
spend their money. And, having supercharged the price entrance to Nan Shufang,
of Bordeaux, changed the face of European luxury Amanyangyun; a villa at
Amanyangyun; a man
fashion, and customised their Gulfstream 650s, now behind a food stall in
they’re turning their attention back home. Baisha, Lijiang.
T
he Amanyangyun story begins with the trees.
An entire forest of them was going to be
destroyed in the construction of a reservoir
in the southeastern province of Jiangxi. And
they weren’t just any trees, they were ancient camphors,
some of them thousands of years old. Ma Dadong,
a businessman born in the Jiangxi city of Fuzhou,
decided to act, setting in motion a 15-year project to
move 10,000 of the trees 800 kilometres north to a site
on the outskirts of Shanghai. Warehouses were leased,
tree surgeons engaged by the score; at one stage a
tollbooth on the route was removed to accommodate
the largest of them. Every tree was tagged, and every
tree was replanted at the new site in the same
orientation in which it was found.
Somewhere along the way this caught the attention
of Aman, considered the most luxurious boutique
resort group in the world. One of its defining tenets
has been location, location, location. The edge of a
national park in Rajasthan, the forests of Bhutan,
a canyon in Utah. World Heritage sites are favourites,
whether in the heart of Galle Fort in Sri Lanka, or
overlooking Borobudur in Java.
For a company trying to expand into major cities
without diluting its brand, a new forest of ancient trees
built in one of the richest and busiest ports in the
world was too good an opportunity to pass up. In
January, Aman opened the gates at Amanyangyun, its
fourth property in China and the 31st in the group.
From the day of its founding in 1988, Aman has
had a focus on spare design, its luxury conjured through
fine materials, a focus on wellness, and a style of service
that is highly personalised without being obtrusive.
The overlap of these qualities with classical aesthetics,
especially those of the Ming and Qing dynasties, is
where Aman has located its new Chinese luxury.
“Aman” is the Sanskrit word for peace, and
“yangyun” translates as “nourishing cloud”, and
on a cool, clear Shanghai morning, tranquillity is
much in evidence. The central lawn is bookended ➤
Clockwise from top:
at Amanyangyun’s
Lazhu restaurant,
Jiangxi duck, pickled
vegetables, pig’s
ears and chicken-
egg soup, with
Chinese rice wine.
Right: instructor Lily
Wang practicing
calligraphy at Nan
Shufang. Above:
inside a villa at
Amanyangyun.
by the learning centre on one side and the monolithic
reception building on the other, and on it stand the
oldest of the camphors.
The rest of the hotel comprises low buildings and
walled compounds spread well apart over 10 hectares
of gardens hedged with camellias and bamboo and
dotted with 500 of the camphor trees. A cluster of
buildings linked by breezeways connects one of Aman’s
biggest wellness centres with the lobby building,
a reception centre (the group’s first), a wine bar, a
boutique and three restaurants. Nama and Arva are
the Japanese and Italian restaurants Aman has opened
in many of its properties, while Lazhu channels Jiangxi,
the home province of the trees (and their benefactor),
to showcase a spicy, elemental regional cuisine little
represented in high-end restaurants in Shanghai, let
alone outside China.
The most luxurious of the accommodation options
are the antique villas, and they are quite wonderful.
Fifty Qing-era houses rescued from the same region
as the camphor forest have been turned into 24 suites
and 13 antique villas.
The villas stand proud in their own walled gardens,
replete with moats, ancient camphors, private pools
and discrete guest wings for children, the help and/or
the bodyguards.
Each one is the size of a barn, and a big barn at that,
the two bedrooms complemented by generous living
areas that easily accommodate a family: the dining table,
which seats eight, has a lazy Susan. Tree-trunk beams
reach to ceilings 16 feet away. Planks seven inches
wide line the floor. The villas are grand and they are
beautiful. And though their construction takes in bricks
and timbers and carvings that are thousands of years
old, they are not intended to simulate Ming or Qing
design, but rather glory in its details.
“When we were dealing with priceless antique
houses and what they have to offer in terms of the
carvings and the woodwork, it was very important to
complement it with contemporary architecture, not try
to do a replica of what’s there,” says Isabelle Vergnaud,
senior interior designer at Kerry Hill Architects.
The lighting references Chinese lanterns, while
rows of high, narrow shutters open to reveal private
courtyards and alcoves framing pools and urns of water
plants. A large freestanding stone tub doesn’t quite
dominate the vast bathroom. The benches are granite,
the basins cut from the same material but given
more polish. The stone floors are warmed, as are the
towels. “We’re trying to bring the emotion through the
architecture,” says Vergnaud. “Not through layers of
decoration.” Instead what you’ve got is a glorious sense
of space and the quiet beauty of natural materials. And
it smells good. As you might hope from a project built
around a camphor forest, the rooms are rich with the
herbal scent of timber. ➤
“S
hanghai is a young city, only barely
100 years old,” says Amanyangyun
marketing communications director
Cecilia Yang. “So we’ve transplanted the
history from Fuzhou.” We’re lunching on Jiangxi
specialties of sweet-hot duck, Mandarin lake fish, and
chicken soup with whole boiled eggs at Lazhu. The
restaurant and its seven private dining rooms overlook
a thriving terraced planting of local vegetables – rice
in flower, dewy mustards, handsome heads of cabbage
– hedged with fragrant bushes of longjing tea. “We
have a saying that Aman properties are grown, not
built.” The brand, she says, has been founded on
heritage, with a strong association with culture.
Nowhere is this more prominent at the
Shanghai hotel than at its learning centre, Nan
Shufang. It’s a studio and nine teahouses devoted
to the appreciation and study of the arts of the class
of scholars that flourished in the Song, Ming and
Qing dynasties. Here guests immerse themselves in
meditative examination of the scholars’ tools and
receive instruction in their disciplines. There’s the
preparation of finely ground sandalwood and ajar
for incense, a masterclass in the brush, well, inkstone
and parchment of classical calligraphy, and the
appreciation of rare red teas and the plucking of the
guqin, a seven-stringed zither sometimes called the
instrument of sages. All are rituals to train patience
and focus, and to quiet the mind ahead of other
forms of meditation.
The studio is a place of superb calm. The gentle
twang of the guqin punctuates the silence. The air is
fresh with the faint perfume of Buddha’s hand citrus.
The nanmu timber of the desk has a deep, honeyed
lustre that’s like balm to the eye. The late Ming
period is a high-water mark of human aesthetics.
Using very fine woods and peerless mortise and
tenon joinery, the furniture artisans of the era
captured an exquisite sense of proportion. Surface
ornamentation was not their art; their genius
was expressed instead in the elegant contrast of
solid mass and emptiness in a desk, or the slight
taper of a cabinet – minimalism that predated
Clockwise from
modernism by many centuries. top: locals in
Nan Shufang offers a window into that Beijing; the
moment and that mindset. It’s something that marble barge at
the Summer
is particularly appealing in a fast-paced, highly
Palace; Qianmen
commercial city like Shanghai, says manager Street, Beijing; a
Jonathan Wolfberg, but it also speaks to a shopfront in
rediscovered appreciation for this part of the Beijing; deluxe
suite, Aman
Chinese cultural identity. “These studios were Summer Palace,
places to nourish the soul and spirit,” he says. Beijing.
a
in
h
C Mongolia
Beijing
Yellow Sea
Shanghai
Jiangxi
Lijiang
East China Sea
South China Sea
A
man opened in China with a splash in
2008. With all eyes on the Chinese capital
that Olympic year, the company outdid
itself in its location: the hotel adjoins the
Summer Palace, with some of it occupying quarters
originally built for the Empress Dowager Cixi herself.
It’s the perfect Aman setting, offering guests a secret
door into the palace grounds near Kunming Lake. It’s
also invested with perfectly Aman service. Return to
the hotel’s secret door after a tour of the palace on
an icy Beijing morning and you’ll be greeted by staff
bearing hot towels.
Like the new Shanghai property, Aman Summer
Palace isn’t handy for the city centre, which can be an
issue for anyone doing business in these famously
traffic-challenged cities. But it’s likewise self-sufficient,
its enticements extending to a huge underground pool
and spa complex, a table tennis arena, bars, a teahouse
and a 37-seat cinema, plus Chinese, Western and
Japanese food. (The Peking duck, you’ll be pleased
to hear, is more than serviceable.)
Next came Amanfayun, a serene retreat near the
famed West Lake of Hangzhou that opened in 2010,
and then Amandayan, which opened in Lijiang, in
Yunnan province, in 2015.
Aman legend abounds in stories of how far beyond
the ordinary it’s willing to go for its guests. You want
snow brought from the Atlas Mountains to the property
at Marrakech for a white Christmas? What about a
plane chartered to pick up a 1968 Burgundy from the
US and bring it to Amankila in Bali in time for your
wedding anniversary? These are real examples of a
service culture that says if it’s legal and it doesn’t disturb
other guests (and provided your credit is good enough),
they’ll do everything they can to make it happen.
For a traveller interested in dipping into Chinese
food culture, that could mean a chef from the Shanghai
property personally opening the door to his favourite
local xiao long bao shops, a staffer working her contacts
to obtain a sought-after booking at vegetarian hotspot
Fu He Hui at a day’s notice, or even indulging ➤
a guest’s obsession with espresso-based coffee, winkling a 25 yuan – about $5. Later it makes an impressive
great caffè latte from Soloist in the hutongs of Beijing. if unorthodox addition to a pork-rib hotpot.
To experience the Old Town of Lijiang with the Amandayan is an incredibly beautiful site. Perched
kind of access that Aman grants its guests, though, is on a leafy hilltop, it offers views to snow-capped
to have your ideas of what Chinese food can and can’t peaks on the horizon. Overlooking the canals and
be turned on their head. cobblestones of the 10th-century heart of old Lijiang,
Yunnan is dismissed by Chinese classicists. It isn’t it’s rendered along much more traditional lines than
part of one of the country’s four great schools of food. Amanyangyun, all gabled ceilings and latticework. You
It’s a place of ingredients, east-coasters will tell you, not could have your mind blown simply dining in-house,
of cuisine. But to walk the alleys of Zhongyi market of whether on lotus roots and seeds with pickled chillies
a morning is to see diversity of ingredients and cultures or a salad of white-tiger ginger and calendulas in the
rarely matched in this part of the world, and abundant restaurant, or jidou liangfen, a stir-fried jelly made
evidence of discernment. The combination of high from chicken beans, served at breakfast.
altitude and low latitude creates excellent growing But you could also go deeper with an Aman
conditions for a wide range of plants and animals, guide and wander the streets of Baisha and Yuhu, the
and there’s a purity here that has become exotic in other old towns of Lijiang, and chat to horse-toting
the Chinese countryside. Naxi women and discuss the tattoo traditions of the
Yunnan borders Sichuan province, as well as Yi people, drinking Tibetan yak-butter tea, and eating
Vietnam, Myanmar, Laos and Tibet, and 25 of China’s Naxi bacon deep-fried with mint along the way.
minority ethnic groups are represented in the province. And while you might see the occasional Japanese
At the market Naxi, Nanzhao, Mosuo and Tibetan tourist or Caucasian face on the road, the people who
cultures converge with the Han; heaps of fresh, are here in serious numbers are Chinese. The “four
fragrant herbs often more typically associated with olds” – old ideas, old customs, old habits and old
southeast Asian cultures are sold alongside wonderfully culture – are among the most compelling attractions
oily pizza-like breads and slabs of Tibetan butter. for Chinese travellers within China today. For China,
It’s a place rich in yak meat, red-centred “bloody” understanding home might just be the most important
Lijiang peaches, and musky piles of Yunnan ham and Clockwise from
journey of all.
cured ribs. The butchers are all women, men walk top left: Mrs Back at Amanyangyun in Shanghai, tree 4795,
past with buckets of tadpoles and hunks of wild bee Yang, a Naxi the oldest of the camphors, the one the staff call the
woman in Yuhu;
hives. Potato farmers tend small fires by their stalls, emperor tree, has put down roots. A few feet away,
Amandayan,
while huge bong-like pipes are sold for smoking Lijiang; Wenchang a low stone well brims with the water guests use to
the celebrated local tobacco. You want fish-mint Palace; black honour this remarkable organism, a living witness, as
roots? Peeled celtuce? Pheasant offal? Podded trule rice at Fu ancient as imperial China itself. More than 2000 years
He Hui, Shanghai;
broad beans? Boiled peanuts? This is your market. Zhongyi market, old, its stout trunk is pitted with the scars of millennia,
A forager offers a fresh local black truffle for Lijiang. but its boughs reach for heaven with new leaves. ●
Tr i p
notes
Getting there
Qantas flies direct from
Sydney to Shanghai and
Beijing, and direct from
Melbourne to Shanghai.
Stay
Amanyangyun Located about
27km south-west of Shanghai’s
CBD, it has 13 historic villas,
from 12,000 RMB ($2,400) per
night, and 24 new courtyard
suites, from 6000 RMB ($1,200).
6161 Yuanjiang Rd, Minhiang
District, Shanghai, China.
Aman Summer Palace
Located 15km from the heart
of Beijing, rooms start at
2,900 RMB ($590) per night.
1 Gongmenqian St, Summer
Palace, Beijing, China
Amandayan Rooms start at
4,100 RMB ($840) per night.
29 Shishan Rd, Gucheng District,
Lijiang, Yunnan, China.
Aman central reservations,

+65 6715 8855, aman.com
Streets
Amoy Street is ground zero for Singapore’s hottest eats and drinks.
MAX VEENHUYZEN maps out its essentials.
ahead
Photography LAURYN ISHAK
I
t’s all happening on Amoy Street – again.
Long before land reclamation in Singapore
began, this was the site of a busy port at which
hundreds of Chinese, Malay, Indian and
Arab immigrants landed and then stayed. So
many people arrived from Amoy (now called
Xiamen), a city in the south-eastern province of Fujian,
that the name stuck. The street’s shophouses were
developed in the 1830s under Sir Stamford Raffles’
masterplan for the city, and it filled with mosques,
temples, schools, apothecaries and opium dens.
Two centuries later, this half-kilometre of one-way
street in Chinatown retains some of the city’s most
important architectural heritage. And it’s still a place
where Singapore’s obsessively food-focused citizens
gather to eat, drink and gossip.
The key players in the street’s new enterprises are
a diverse and worldly bunch, with more than a few
Australians among them. And while the area’s food
options cover everything from mod-Korean to deli
sandwiches, there’s also a growing admiration for
home-grown eating traditions.
For the time-poor, curious and hungry traveller, Amoy
Street and the lanes radiating from it offer the best taste
of the island nation’s culinary past, present and future.
Blackwattle
With understated styling, aeroplane engines
recycled into chandeliers and a penchant for wine
by small-scale producers, there’s plenty of DNA
shared by Blackwattle and its parent restaurant
Automata, the two-star Sydney venue that chef
Clayton Wells owns with Singaporean hotelier and
restaurateur Loh Lik Peng. Blackwattle’s food has
the same laser-like focus as Automata’s, though chef
Joeri Timmermans draws on a bigger global larder
in Singapore. Italian stracciatella with puréed kombu
and shellfish oil exemplifies Blackwattle’s bowerbird
style, yet the kitchen is equally comfortable serving
more classic dishes such as grilled Japanese sharkskin
flounder with Bordelaise sauce and market greens.
97 Amoy St,+65 6224 2232, blackwattle.com.sg
Nouri
While the concept of “creative fine dining that
crosses cultural boundaries” sounds high-minded, the
experience of eating at Nouri is a relaxed one. Guests are
welcomed into a Japanese-accented space that blurs the
lines between kitchen and dining room. Ivan Brehm,
a one-time head of The Fat Duck’s test kitchen, keeps
his cooking precise but approachable in a globetrotting
menu ranging from Japanese-style cured mackerel to
a polished take on acarajé, Brazil’s famous bean fritters.
Tasting menus range from five to seven courses, and
a lunchtime teishoku (set-course meal) is ideal for the
time-poor. 72 Amoy St, +65 6221 4148, nouri.com.sg ➤
Steamed ling
with grilled
garlic chives and
curry-leaf butter,
and Fremantle
octopus with XO
chilli, red vinegar,
fennel and ink
at Blackwattle.
Left: head chef
Joeri Timmermans
in the open kitchen
at Blackwattle.
Below left: the
interior at Native.
PREVIOUS PAGE
Left: the upstairs
bar at Blackwattle.
Right: Thian Hock
Keng Temple on
Telok Ayer Street.
Amoy Street Food Centre
Breakfast and lunch are the peak hours at this bustling
two-storey food court serving off-duty taxi drivers
and office workers from the surrounding high-rises.
Benchmark versions of local dishes are well worth
queuing for, whether it’s the comforting meals-for-one
at Li Xing Nasi Lemak (#02-81; the first number
refers to the floor, the second to the stall number)
or the textbook curry puffs at J2 Crispy Famous Curry
Puff (#01-21). The court has a few more unconventional
hawkers, too. Among them is Chop Chop Biryani
& Meats (#02-101), a vendor serving Indian biryani rice
with salted egg chicken, roast pork and other Chinese
favourites, and A Noodle Story (#01-39) a “Singapore-
style ramen” stall from chefs Gwern Khoo and Ben
Tham (formerly of Tetsuya Wakuda’s casino fine-diner
Waku Ghin) that attracts queues day and night.
7 Maxwell Rd (main entrance via Telok Ayer St)
Le Quinze Vins
Singapore isn’t known for wine, at least not the
affordable and interesting kind, but a handful of
wine bars are working to change that. Chief among
them is Le Quinze Vins. Its all-French cellar features
superstars from Burgundy, the Loire and Bandol, plus
natural winemaking pioneers such as Ganevat, Labet
and Lapierre – wines are imported direct from their
source to minimise prices. Manager Romain Michaud
is a cheerful constant during service and his super-sized Meatsmith
croque-monsieur made with 18-month-old Comté is In a city that loves its roast pork and duck, this
made for wine snacking. 29 Boon Tat St, +65 6222 8266 “full metal smokehouse” is in a barbecue category
of its own. Overseeing a dining room best described
as designer man-shed, Nebraska-born Andrew
Baldus coaxes maximum flavour from protein.
The dinner menu includes brisket, pork ribs,
smoked chicken and a sausage special – a meaty
andouille specimen last time we checked – which
all spend time in the restaurant’s two Southern
Pride smokers. Whiskey and beer, naturally, are
on hand. 167-169 Telok Ayer St, +65 6221 2262,
meatsmith.com.sg
Native
The Noma-esque trinity of time, place and taste
has influenced countless chefs around the world.
What if bartenders adopted a similar approach?
Gun drink-slinger Vijay Mudaliar considered the
question, and this sparsely furnished cocktail bar,
with exposed bricks and exposed rafters, is his
answer. Native’s list is filled with original thinking
and drinking. Thai rum, Sichuan pepper-perfumed
gin, sparkling sake and small-batch liquors from
around Asia form the backbone of a list in which
cocktails might come garnished with salmon roe,
black vinegar or ants. 52A Amoy St, +65 8869 6520,
tribenative.com
Ocean Curry Fish Head
It’s hard to miss this popular corner coffee shop,
with its prominent blue awning and lunchtime
queue. While office workers flock here for affordable,
home-style Chinese buffet fare – known locally as
zi char – the à la carte menu is the real star. The
restaurant’s namesake is worthy of top billing; a
meaty snapper head simmered in a bright, turmeric-
spiked broth is the epitome of Singaporean comfort
food. Cockles stir-fried in sambal are another local
favourite, as is the rich otak-otak, a spiced fish paste
wrapped and cooked in banana leaf. 181 Telok Ayer St,
+65 6324 9226, oceancurryfishhead.com.sg
Cheek by Jowl
With characteristically punchy flavours and smart-
casual spirit, modern Australian cooking has found
an appreciative audience in Singapore. Among the
success stories is Cheek By Jowl, a cosy dining room
with sightlines to an open kitchen run by Tetsuya’s
and Yellow alumnus, Rishi Naleendra. Dainty pastry
cigars filled with chicken liver parfait and raw beef
crowned with charred Brussel sprouts and shaved
horseradish are typical of Naleendra’s composed,
Instagram-friendly handiwork. Charming but relaxed
service under restaurant manager Manuela Toniolo,
Naleendra’s wife, is another draw, as is the list of
predominantly lo-fi wines. 21 Boon Tat St,
+65 6221 1911, cheekbyjowl.com.sg
Employees Only
From the white-jacketed bartenders to a secret
entrance behind a neon sign advertising psychic
Getting
readings, this high-energy cocktail bar has much there
in common with the New York original. To a
Singapore
From left: Japanese-style soundtrack of ’80s rock anthems and disco-soul Airlines operates
cured mackerel at Nouri; (including the occasional appearance of Starship), 137 direct flights
the dining room at Nouri; bartenders keep the party going with textbook a week between
Gwern Khoo, Ben Tham Singapore and
and Kollinn of A Noodle Vespers, Manhattans accented with Grand Marnier,
six Australian
Story; Singapore-style and top-shelf Prohibition-inspired cocktails. Not all the cities: Adelaide,
ramen, potato-wrapped pleasures are boozy: the menu lists modern American Brisbane,
prawns and Hong Kong- Canberra,
style wontons at A Noodle steakhouse classics, and guests are farewelled with a
Melbourne, Perth
Story; Le Quinze Vins. complimentary chicken-soup nightcap at closing time. and Sydney.
112 Amoy St, +65 6221 7357, employeesonlysg.com ● singaporeair.com
SHIFT
L AT E
THE
Looking for the best

places to eat and drink
when all the sensible
people are tucked up in
bed? Ask a chef, writes
JOE WARWICK.
PÁRAMO
MEXICO CITY
Search for the low-key entrance
to this unpretentious cantina above
popular lunch-only eatery El Parnita
(hence the cantina’s local nickname,
“Bar-nita”). Páramo’s terrace attracts
a young, hip crowd for mezcal and
tacos, and it’s open until 2am.
“They have great music and homely
Mexican food. It’s become a meeting
point for lots of diferent people from
around the neighbourhood.” Elena
Reygadas, Rosetta, Mexico City.
Avenida Yucatán 84, +52 55 3474 2613,
facebook.com/ParamoRoma
ANTIGUA TABERNA
QUEIROLO
LIMA
This watering hole in the Pueblo
Libre district is one of Peru’s oldest
restaurants, dating back to 1880.
Take your cue from the locals: find
a seat at the marble bar and order a
Chilcano (pisco and ginger ale) with
a sánguche de chicharrón, a hefty
pork belly sandwich. Open until 11pm.
“It’s a great place to drink good
Chilcanos, soak up the atmosphere
and enjoy Peruvian comfort food.”
A
Cantonese seafood banquet at three in Pedro Miguel Schiaino,
the morning. Sushi so late it’s more like an Malabar, Lima.
PHOTOGRAPHY PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN/BASTARD (BASTARD) & PAUL BERNHARDT (GALETO)
early breakfast. Bedtime hotdogs served with Avenida San Martín 1090, +51 1460
a side of potty-mouthed sass. A DIY Korean 0441, antiguatabernaqueirolo.com
barbecue joint with its own butchers. And mixed
shawarma accompanied by a belly dancer gyrating
to an Arabic version of Michael Jackson’s “Smooth
Clockwise from
left: charcuterie BASTARD
Criminal”. These are a few of my most memorable at Bastard in MALMÖ
Malmö; Páramo
meals, and they were all eaten with chefs after service. in Mexico City; Natural wine, charcuterie – shaved
Researching for Where Chefs Eat, now in its chef Pedro to order on a big, red Avery Berkel
third version, we asked chefs to choose their favourite Miguel Schiaino
slicer – and meaty dishes with an
of Malabar in
places in eight categories, spanning fine dining Lima. Opposite: emphasis on offal are the order of the
to bargain eats, but it’s always the late-night venues Bastard, Malmö. day at this smart tavern in Sweden’s
that spark the most enthusiasm and the sharpest third-largest city, about 40 minutes by
recommendations. Chefs are night owls by necessity train from Copenhagen. And it’s open
and, in my experience editing the guide, there are until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays.
very few who don’t haunt a late-night joint. “Great, relaxed food in fantastic
After a hard night in their own kitchens, surroundings. Loud music, big plates,
chefs crave simplicity in the venues they unwind and just fun.” Robert Jacobsson,
in and the dishes and drinks they relax with, Bord 13, Malmö.
particularly if their job involves a pair of tweezers Also recommended by Daniel Berlin,
and an elaborate tasting menu. Daniel Berlin Krog, Tomelilla.
Want to eat like a chef in the best food cities Mäster Johansgatan 11, +46 40 12 13 18,
in the world? This is where they’d send you. bastardrestaurant.com ➤
“Wet burgers are dangerously
garlicky and often totally
necessary.” Şemsa Denizsel,
Kantin, Istanbul on Kizilkayalar
Clockwise from
left: Galeto in
Lisbon; chef
Şemsa Denizsel
of Istanbul’s
Kantin; Mat Bar
in Reykjavik.
Opposite, from
left: Hang Dai in
Dublin; chef Ross
Lewis of Dublin’s
Chapter One.
THE LAUGHING HEART KIZILKAYALAR

LONDON ISTANBUL
This singular natural wine bar, bottle shop and dining room Sidestep the city’s sea of doner
is the work of Melbourne opera-singer-turned-sommelier kebab stands and head instead to
Charlie Mellor. It’s a lively Monday to Saturday operation, the home of the Islak (wet) burger.
with a 300-bottle wine list and a menu by chef Tom It’s possibly the world’s slipperiest
Anglesea that juggles European and Asian influences. slider: the beef patty and its bun are
The kitchen is open until 1am, the bar until 2am. doused in a garlic-tomato sauce then
steamed for several hours. Expect it
“If I was 10 years younger and not doing the
to get messy. Open until 6am.
school run the next day, I’d be here every night.”
Tom Harris, The Marksman, London.
ROBATA KAIMARU
Siraselviler Caddesi 2c, +90 216
TOKYO
4111 177, kizilkayalar.com.tr
Also recommended by Isaac McHale, The Clove Club,
Beneath the train tracks near
and Jeremy Lee, Quo Vadis. 277 Hackney Rd, E2 8NA,
+44 20 7686 9535, thelaughingheartlondon.com TRATTORIA DA NENO Ginza station, Robata Kaimaru is
in a cluster of casual and affordable
ROME
counters serving regional specialities
ORANGE SHABU SHABU Located in a former clothing shop, this
well-priced, brightly designed trattoria
from Hokkaido, Iwate, Nagano,
Shizuoka and Kumamoto 24/7.
TAIPEI in Piazza Bologna serves classic Order the charcoal-grilled clams,
Open nightly until 2am, Orange Shabu Shabu is a pasta dishes, rotisserie-cooked scallops and oysters.
cut-above Taipei hotpot experience. Alongside the meats, bacon cheeseburgers and
“Down a narrow alleyway, under
customary wagyu and chicken options is a large selection more, with a strong local wine list.
the train tracks between Ginza
of seafood, including Hokkaido crab and scallops, And it’s open nightly until 1am.
and Shimbashi, inexpensive and
and abalone and prawns. A congee, made with your “Simple but very well-executed good-quality dishes are grilled over
leftover stock, is presented at the end of the meal. dishes, and a great place for a late smoky charcoal. It’s always bustling
“I love the quality of the food – best is the black Taiwanese bite and a drink.” Alessandro here, until the trains stop running.”
chicken.” Andrea Bonaini, Yellow Lemon, Taipei. Narducci, Acquolina, Rome. Danielle Gjestland, Wasabi,
Noosa Sound, Queensland.
135, Section 1, Da’an Rd, +886 2 2776 1658, Via Ravenna 30, +39 06 4429 0319,
www.orangeshabu.com.tw trattorianeno.it 2-1-1 Yurakucho, +81 3 5532 4567
“Nothing beats the duck
roasted in Hang Dai’s
apple-wood-burning
oven. They’ve also
got a great selection
of modern Chinese
HANG DAI dishes.” Ross Lewis,
DUBLIN
Chapter One, Dublin
With a classy cocktail list, custom-built
sound system, DJ sets, mirror balls on Hang Dai
and enough neon to light up St
Stephen’s Green, this is not your
average Chinese joint. The kitchen GALETO THE KUNJIP
has raised the bar for Chinese LISBON NEW YORK CITY
cooking in Dublin, and it’s open until
This Portuguese rendition of an American diner is open This wildly popular Koreatown
1.30am on Fridays and Saturdays.
daily until 3.30am. Its interior, featuring dark varnished barbecue joint never sleeps.
20 Camden St, +353 1 545 8888, wood and brass-studded walls, seems unchanged since “I love coming here late at night
hangdaichinese.com it opened in 1966. The lengthy menu runs from clams in with friends if we’ve done an event
garlic to club sandwiches, burgers and steaks. nearby. Lots of options like grilled
pork belly, and chilled buckwheat
MAT BAR “Honest cuisine, with a very comforting caldo verde
made with Portuguese cabbage.” noodles with lots of fresh cabbage
REYKJAVIK José Avillez, Belcanto, Lisbon. and sesame leaf to eat with
Grilled polenta sits beside reindeer everything. You can get grilled
Avenida da República 14, +351 21 354 4444
tartare on Mat Bar’s Nordic-Italian meats or broth depending on how
menu, which makes the most of you feel, and cold beer. I love their
the Icelandic larder, in particular its BCD TOFU HOUSE blended grain rice. You can really
chill here for as long as you want;
excellent seafood. This bar-restaurant, LOS ANGELES
opened early last year, is housed in a you can hang like it’s a diner, they
stylishly remodelled 1960s building on The first of 13 branches of this chain opened in LA in don’t really push you out until you’re
Reykjavik’s newly hip Hverfisgata and 1996, and quickly gained a reputation for its spicy Korean ready to leave.” Angela Dimayuga,
stays open until 11pm. tofu stew. This branch on Wilshire Boulevard is a 24/7 formerly of Mission Chinese Food,
operation. Its signature tofu stew is made with beef or pork, New York City.
“Great interior, an amazing
atmosphere and impeccable food.” and there are variations that include prawns, clams and Also recommended by Daniel Humm,
Gísli Matthías Audunsson, oysters; ham, sausage and cheese; and – attention offal Eleven Madison Park, New York City.
Slippurinn, Vestmannaeyjar. fans – mixed small intestines. 32 West 32nd St, +1 212 564 8238,
“There is nothing as comforting as a bowl of boiling soon kunjip.com
Hverfisgata 26, +354 788 3900,
tofu, a Korean stew. You eat all the banchan and crack an
matbar.is
egg into your stew and enjoy. It warms you up in all the
right ways.” Ted Hopson, The Bellwether, Los Angeles.
CANNIBALE ROYALE Also recommended by Jessica Koslow, Sqirl, Los Angeles.
AMSTERDAM 3575 Wilshire Bvld, +1 213 382 6677, bcdtofu.com
This Amsterdam-Centrum eatery, one
of four in the city, is open until 3am
every night, except Friday and
SHAKARIKI 432
BANGKOK
Saturday when it closes at 4am.
The menu of charcuterie, steaks, ribs, With its roots in Osaka, this chain of izakaya has
burgers and bitterballen (breaded 13 outlets across Thailand. This original outpost in
meatballs) is popular with night owls. Bangkok is open every night until 3am (4am on Saturday)
“Sometimes after a hard service, and specialises in Japanese bar food including
Edited extract from Where
you just need this.” Bas Wiegel, okonomiyaki, yakitori, tsukune and kasu udon, with Chefs Eat, edited by Joe
De Kas, Amsterdam. a side order of karaoke. Warwick with contributors
“This great-value izakaya is the best after a late service Joshua David Stein, Evelyn
Also recommended by Sergio Chen and Natascha Mirosch,
when you need to relax with your team.” Gaggan Anand, (Phaidon, hbk, $39.95).
Herman, Pure C, Cadzand.
Gaggan, Bangkok.
Handboogstraat 17a, +31 20 23 37 160,
cannibaleroyale.nl 440/7-8 Sukhumvit 55, +66 2 381 8432, shakariki432.com
Design
A cellar’s market
Winemakers are showing a lot of bottle, using eye-catching architecture to
attract travellers to their cellar doors, writes ALEXANDRA CARLTON.
“I PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FERGUSON (MONTORO), JOHN GOLLINGS & DEREK SWALWELL

t’s a bold statement,” Beneath the canopy, the for instance, a five-storey interactive
says Bob Derrick of his tasting room and function space exhibition space, restaurant and
new project, a cleverly are built from blackened timber cellar door shaped like a giant
designed cellar door and glass, with views of vines to Rubik’s Cube within d’Arenberg’s
that dominates his two-hectare the east and the sunset to the west. McLaren Vale vineyard. And Pt Leo (TARRAWARRA) AND DAVID SIEVERS PHOTOGRAPHY (PETALUMA).
vineyard in Orange, in the NSW “The patron should feel they’re Estate on Victoria’s Mornington
central west. He was determined visiting somewhere a little private Peninsula, a world-class sculpture
that the first cellar door for and exclusive,” Sutherland says. park around a building that’s a
Montoro Wines would have The response to the new work of art in itself, a dramatic
wow factor. building, opened in December, semicircle capped by a green
Architect David Sutherland, has been hugely encouraging, roof of grapevines, housing two
of local firm Source Architects, says Derrick. “Visitors are amazed restaurants and a cellar door
created a striking steel canopy that by the beauty and uniqueness with views of Western Port Bay.
references traditional agricultural of the building.” Sculptures, views and
buildings but strikes unflinchingly Montoro is among a handful restaurants are increasingly part
into surrounding fields of native of wine producers investing of the winemaker’s business
grasses and wildflowers, catching Above: inside in architecturally ambitious plan. The number of tourists
Tarrawarra
the eye of passing drivers and Estate in the cellar doors. These include the visiting Australian vineyards has
delivering the desired wow. Yarra Valley. $15 million d’Arenberg Cube, strengthened in the past decade
Clockwise from
above: the entrance
to Tarrawarra’s cellar
door; Orange’s
Montoro Wines, with
“wine dog” Toby;
Montoro Wines;
inside Tarrawarra;
Montoro.
and, for some smaller producers,

cellar-door sales comprise almost
a third of their total revenue. With
increased traffic and competition,
wineries need to offer more than
a hay bale and a cheese platter
at the back of an old barn.
The entrance to the cellar
door at Tarrawarra Estate in
Victoria’s Yarra Valley looks
remarkably like a hobbit hole;
a deceptively low-key wooden
door in a stone wall set in the
hillside. Inside, a long, narrow
room – about 35 metres by five
– houses a nine-metre-long tasting
bench recycled from the old pier
at St Andrews Beach, on the tip
of the Mornington Peninsula. ➤
Design
“It’s like an Alice in Wonderland to turn a 1970s homestead into

rabbit hole,” says assistant venue a cellar door, their client stressed
manager Craig Fennell. that the new space needed to tell
The surprises don’t stop the winery’s story. So the earth
there. “As soon as people step in the rammed-earth walls was
inside, they have the cameras taken from the three distinct
out,” Fennell says. “Then, they regions in which Petaluma grows
have their hands on the walls.” its grapes, and interior walls and
Spotlit by circular skylights, the ceilings are clad in repurposed
interior walls are rendered in a French-oak riddling racks, backlit
trompe-l’œil of textured concrete in the brand’s signature yellow. It’s
that looks like wood, a warm, rich not unlike winemaking – a careful
surface that begs to be touched. blend of the old and the new.
Visitors aren’t here solely to taste While beautiful façades and
the 40-year-old label’s pinot noir cantilevered roof lines play an
and chardonnay wines. “They increasingly prominent role in
want to get a sense of connection branding, the magic for most
to the people making the wine, winemakers is still inside a bottle.
the landscape and the place “We love to give our visitors an
itself,” says Fennell. experience, and we have a museum
It’s this yearning for an of art and a restaurant. But
immersive, sensory experience ultimately for us, it’s all about the
that lies at the heart of a cellar- wine,” says Tarrawarra’s Craig
door visit, and for most labels this Fennell. “It always has been.” ●
calls for a nod to both the present Montoro Wines, 432 Cargo Rd,
and the past. Like Tarrawarra, Orange, NSW, (02) 6365 3126,
the 42-year-old Petaluma winery montorowines.com.au; Tarrawarra
From top: Tarrawarra
in the Adelaide Hills has decided Estate, 311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Rd, Estate; inside
to innovate while also celebrating Yarra Glen, Vic, (03) 5957 3511, Petaluma’s cellar
tradition. When Paul Gillett and tarrawarra.com.au; Petaluma, door; and Petaluma’s
entrance at dusk.
David McLeod, of Grieve Gillett 254 Pfeiffer Rd, Woodside, SA,
Andersen architects, were asked (08) 8339 9391, petaluma.com.au
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Tr a v e l m e m o i r
Finally, the man in the middle leans back

with a satisfied grin and says, “Ahhhh.
Gioco di parole.” (Word game.) They nod
and smile. But nobody really laughs.
Soon the chap on the right drags his
chair forward with a scrape. “I’ve got one
too,” he says with a big grin that wipes
away decades. The 60-year-old is suddenly
a boy of 10. We all turn to him.
“Un cavallo entra in un bar,” he
begins. The horse orders a drink, and
another, then turns and announces to the
crowd that he has a great joke to tell. But
the guy closest to him booms, “Don’t pay
any attention to him – he’s a drunkard!”
All three chaps double over laughing.
I lean forward in my chair, splay my
palms, and say, “E ancora?”
The origins of my universal-joke
idea lie in an encounter with a group
of international journalists. We were
drinking late into the night, and each
of us shouted a round and offered a joke.
UNPACKING My contribution was the long-faced horse.
Horsing around Then, as now, the reaction was more

bemusement than amusement. “Ahhh,”
said a Russian. “This is typical English
joke.” Confessed an Egyptian, “We really
Do jokes work as well in Farsi as in only have jokes about nuns and gays.”
French? LUKE SLATTERY pulls up a An Italian in the group said her
countrymen don’t really joke so much
bar stool and delivers the punchline. as take digs at people from the next town
or region. “We don’t really have this kind
of humour,” she said of the horse gag.
But I’m not so sure. A few nights
I
once travelled with a chap who comic archetype hard-wired into us all? later I tell my horse joke, in English, to
wore just the one pair of shoes. What, in any event, is a joke? an Italian and an Australian. The Italian
And one coat. He’d crammed A few months ago I found myself in erupts into laughter. She wipes away tears.
all his possessions into a seven- a bar in a town in central Italy, conversing The Australian is nonplussed.
kilogram carry-on. I favour a bigger in my halting Italian over a carafe of local The Italian leans forward. “Don’t you
suitcase – three pairs of shoes – but red with a couple of patrons. After a while get it?” she asks. “It’s a horse and…” She
for the past few years I’ve travelled I pluck up the courage. “Un cavallo entra makes a long flowing gesture, suggestive of
the world with just the one joke. in un bar...” a muzzle. The Australian shakes her head.
In a sense the joke isn’t really the After I deliver the punchline, the chap “Oh, forget it,” says the Italian.
ILLUSTRATION LIZ ROWLAND/ILLUSTRATION ROOM
joke; the funny part is the translation. closest to me leans forward with a slightly I’m still travelling on the horse joke.
It’s the simplest gag: “Horse walks into troubled expression. He splays his palms, If it keeps bombing, I have another in
a bar. Barman says, ‘Why the long face?’” as if holding them out for inspection. reserve. Guy goes to his doctor with a
It’s so simple, I’ve had no trouble He looks to the companion to his left, chip up his nose and a herring in his
relaying it in French and Italian. Will it then to his right, then returns his gaze ear. “I’m not feeling great, doc,” he
work as easily in Farsi, Inuit, or Bahasa? to me, raises an eyebrow and says, complains, “but I don’t know why.”
Only time and altitude miles will tell. “E ancora?” (And then?) Doctor says, “I can tell by one look at
My aim to travel the world on just I shrug and reply, “Questo è tutto.” you – you’re not eating properly.” ●
the one gag may seem like a frivolous (That’s it.) Luke Slattery’s latest book is Mrs M:
exercise, but its real purpose is to winkle He shrugs in return. The chap on the An Imagined History (Fourth Estate,
out answers to some deeper questions. Is left starts jabbing his phone. Is he bored, $29.99). He appears at the Sydney
humour culture-specific? Or is there some I wonder, or speed-dialling security? Writers’ Festival on 2-3 May, swf.org.au
City hitlist
Drink
Barna-Brew, set on a EAT

hip Sant Antoni street,
reflects the city’s
current obsession with
craft beer (Carrer del
Parlament, 45). Owner
Alex Lazarowicz teams
Belgian-style beers
with a Catalan tapas
menu in a venue
featuring distressed
Artte
walls, vintage furniture
Chef Enric López’s Latin
and an onsite brewery.
American and South East Asian
A crisp Pils Parlament
heritage inspires the chic
goes well with a
interiors and fusion menu of
Moreneta veal burger.
Artte (above), featuring dishes
For good cofee and
such as squid dressed with its
baked goods, head to
ink and teamed with mango
Syra Coffee (Carrer de
chutney, and slow-cooked
la Mare de Déu dels
crab in a chilli bisque. Diners
Desamparats, 8). La Rambla
chat among themselves using
the vintage telephones on each
table, and, come night-time,
take in live jazz and DJ sets in
Barcelona
the neon-lit room. Carrer de
Muntaner, 83c, artte.es
Cometa Pla
The Catalan capital mixes tapas bars and Gaudí with Healthy and sophisticated,
the menus here are based
craft brews and curios, writes BEN HOLBROOK. on market-fresh produce and
biodynamic wines – an unusual
combination in Barcelona. Chef
Giuseppe Padula uses organic,
seasonal ingredients in dishes
such as Tatin de cebolla, in
which the crunch of roasted
onion is a surprise contrast
with burrata foam. Waiters are
happy to pour a few options
from a changing wine list to
help you pick. Carrer del
SHOP STAY Cometa, 5, cometapla.cat
Housed in an old bullfighting venue, Las Almanac Art Deco features meet sharp La Tere Gastrobar
Getting
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (LA RAMBLA, LAS ARENAS)
Arenas (Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, contemporary design at this glamorous there Start with vermouth and tapas
373-385; above) stocks hundreds of 91-room hotel. The rooftop pool and the in the low-lit front bar, then
Cathay Pacific settle in the whitewashed
Spanish fashion brands. Pause for lunch lounge, Azimuth, have impressive views, is boosting
on the rooftop with 360-degree city and the bright, spacious rooms are hung its service to
dining room, with lofty ceiling
views. Boutique It Reminds Me of with art inspired by the city. The central Barcelona, and and minimalist décor. Chef José
Something (Carrer dels Sagristans, location combined with smart service and will fly four times Viñals pairs anchovies with lime
a week from mayonnaise and wasabi, tuna
9) showcases the work of emerging in-house eateries makes this one of the select Australian
artists in jewellery, homewares, gifts, city’s hottest places to stay. Gran Via de tataki with kimchi, and grilled
cities via Hong
visual art and furniture. les Corts Catalanes, 621, almanachotels.com Kong from 1 July. octopus with paprika-dusted
potatoes. Carrer de Riego, 25,
facebook.com/lateregastrobar ●
Explore Antoni Gaudí’s 1880s Casa Vicens, his first house
commission and the most recent of the city’s modernist Edited extract from Barcelona
Precincts by Ben Holbrook (Hardie
buildings opened to the public (Carrer de les Carolines, 20). Grant Travel, hbk, $39.99).
Style
2
1 3 4
Visit
Sketch,
London
14
Light touch
Pack a rainbow of pastels to transit from
work to play in the northern spring.
13
12
9
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (CÉLINE, SKETCH). MERCHANDISING LIZ ELTON

1 MSGM shirtdress, $709, from Matches
Fashion. 2 Hortensia Aube Rosée ring,
$13,740, from Chaumet. 3 Bracelet,
$1,390, from Chanel. 4 Blazer, $159,
from Zara. 5 Lounge T-shirt, $59.95, from
Country Road. 6 Cushnie et Ochs Alma
midiskirt, $981, from Net-a-Porter.
7 Racil cropped trousers, $488, from
11 10 Matches Fashion. 8 Gianvito Rossi mules,
$850, from Net-a-Porter. 9 Elsa Peretti
Céline S/S 2018
Cabochon ring, $1,100, from Tifany & Co.

10 Acne Studios Tohny pants, $700, from
Net-a-Porter. 11 JW Anderson Pierce bag,
$2,700, from Net-a-Porter. 12 Cat-eye
sunglasses, $510, from Céline. 13 Racil
Gion blazer, $1,242, from Matches
Fashion. 14 Emilia boots, $229, from
Country Road. Stockists p168.
TR
AN
Mak
et
all th he shift in
e coo
SIT
l detato winter
ils yo with PL
u nee style
d for fr
new- om Har r
seaso olds
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2 e.
Mak
e a
sta
tem
ent
in v
ivid
pri
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...
From Balenciaga to Emilio Pucci,

4 Balmain to Manolo Blahnik, Harrolds
has been dressing Australians in
luxury fashion labels for over 30 years.
With more than 70 brands
IKZW[[ Q\[ Å^MKPQK[\WZM[QV;aLVMa
Melbourne and the Gold Coast,
Harrolds’ iconic approach to fashion
a lu has cemented its place as Australia’s
sc iou
s fr most prestigious department store –
a gra
nce and it’s the exclusive Australian home
...
of Tom Ford menswear, womenswear,
footwear, handbags and accessories.
0IZZWTL[W‫ٺ‬MZ[XZQÎ\MXMZ[WVIT
styling consultations within the
luxurious surrounds of its styling
5 suites, as well as complimentary valet
parking* with each appointment. For
1 more details contact your Harrolds
consultant on 1300 755 103.
COMPLIMENTARY PARKING IS OFFERED IN
CONJUNCTION WITH A MINIMUM SPEND
6
or
a p
op
of c
olo
u r
1 Blazer, $2990, by Balmain. 2 Scarf, $500, by
Emilio Pucci. 3 Tara Mini crossbody bag, $2370,
by Tom Ford. 4 Good Girl Gone Bad fragrance,
$399, by Kilian. 5 Cat Eye sunglasses, $850,
by Linda Farrow. 6 Knife satin slingback mule,
$940, by Balenciaga. All available at Harrolds.
Beauty
1 This floral harmony of oak moss, mirabelle

plum and freesia is all about exoticism and
Parfum 3
a sense of freedom. Chloé Nomade EDP
50ml, $140, 1800 812 663. 2 Fruit and florals
combine to create a scent that’s at once
comforting and uplifting. Clinique Happy Heart
excellence
Perfume Spray 100ml, $115, clinique.com.au.
3 Keep summer alive with fresh notes of green
frangipani blossom and green mandarin oil.
Prada La Femme Prada L’eau EDT 100ml,
$198, davidjones.com.au. 4 Unconventional
fragrance, unconventional bottle: one for the
Hit the right notes on Mother’s Day rule-breakers. Miu Miu L’Eau Rosée EDT 50ml,
$130, davidjones.com.au 5 Bring a note of
with a selection of essential scents. celebration into the everyday with modern
florals shot through with a hint of fruit. Elie
Saab Le Parfum In White EDP, 90ml, $207,
myer.com.au. 6 A full-bodied and sensual
fragrance for the daring and rebellious. Coco
Mademoiselle EDP Intense Spray 50ml, $174,
chanel.com. 7 The sense of playful starts
2
with the eye-catching bottle and follows
through with notes of pear, peony, almond
blossom and orris. Kenzo World EDT, 50ml,
4
$115, davidjones.com.au. 8 White florals,
tuberose and deep sandalwoods combine
to create a fragrance for the modern woman.
Woman by Ralph Lauren, 100ml, $189,
davidjones.com.au.
8 6
WORDS AND STYLING LIZ ELTON. PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW
Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1 2 3
Parisi The Orama kitchen mixer from Newform in Scenic Experience South East Asia’s rich heritage Laminex The ultimate matte finish with flawless
Italy embodies sleek and sinuous styling, and the as you cruise the Mekong River in all-inclusive appeal, Laminex AbsoluteMatte is like velvet to the
swivel spout doubles as a detachable flexible spray. luxury. Scenic Spirit’s modern five-star suites, the touch. Unique technology provides lasting impact
$1090, parisi.com.au/products/orama-kitchen- largest on the river, each feature a private balcony you’ve never seen in a laminate. laminex.com.au/
mixer-with-magnetic-click-lock-flexible-spray/ and deluxe amenities. scenic.com.au news.php?action=view&article_id=127
4 5 6
Luciana Masci Immerse yourself in authentic Liebherr Visually the most flexible option in the Pork Stars Dan Moss, the PorkStar chef and
village Italy with Touring Abruzzo, small group Liebherr range, the EWTdf 3553 dual zone owner of Terroir Auburn, is passionate about
travel at its best. Explore central and southern Italy: built-in wine cellar can be installed using serving local seasonal produce. His roast pork
Abruzzo, Marche, Puglia and Basilicata. cabinetry to suit your own kitchen décor. scotch with kale and smoked almonds is a prime
(07) 3102 4384, touringabruzzo.com $6,999, andico.com.au example of pork at its finest. Porkstar.com.au
7 8 9
Harvey Norman Combining a contemporary ILVE The new ILVE Versa is sure to excite home Riedel No other name is as closely associated with
look with timeless elegance, the Capri table lamp cooks – it stylishly combines four-zone induction European glass art and glass technology as Riedel.
will complement existing décor but also works as and gas cooking on a spacious 90cm cooktop. Margaux presents a new form that allows gentle
a statement piece in any home. $199, harvey $3,999, ilve.com.au/cooktop/ilbv941-hybrid-gas- decanting, making it perfect for vintage reds as
norman.com.au/capri-table-lamp-blush.html induction/ well as young whites. $279.95, riedelglass.com.au
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p 114
Vanilla custard and
burnt-tofee tart
Cook’s notes
Measures & equipment • Non-reactive bowls are made from
• All cup and spoon measures
are level and based on Australian
metric measures.
glass, ceramic or plastic. Use them
in preference to metal bowls when
marinating to prevent the acid in
Stockists
• Eggs have an average weight of marinades reacting with metal Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au Céline celine.com
59gm unless otherwise specified. and imparting a metallic taste. Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Chaumet chaumet.com
• Fruit and vegetables are washed, • Eggwash is lightly beaten egg used Chefs’ Warehouse (02) 9211 4555, chefswarehouse.com.au
Chinaclay chinaclay.com.au Chloé 1800 420 620, chloe.com/au
peeled and medium-sized unless for glazing or sealing.
Chuchu chuchu.net.au Clinique 1800 556 948, clinique.com.au
otherwise specified. • Sugar syrup is made of equal parts Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au Cultiver
• Oven temperatures are for sugar and water, unless otherwise cultiver.com Cutipol amara.com The DEA Store (02) 9698 8150,
conventional ovens and need to specified. Bring the mixture to the thedeastore.com Di Lorenzo (02) 9698 8737, dilorenzo.com.au
be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. boil to dissolve sugar, remove from Dinosaur Designs (02) 9698 3500, dinosaurdesigns.com.au
• Pans are medium-sized and heat and cool before use. Dulux dulux.com.au Earp Bros earp.com.au
heavy-based; cake tins are stainless • Acidulated water is a mixture of Elie Saab eliesaab.com The Essential Ingredient
steel, unless otherwise specified. water and lemon juice. theessentialingredient.com.au Garlands (02) 9357 7900,
• To sterilise jars and lids, run them garlands.net.au Ginkgo Leaf ginkgoleaf.com.au Ikea ikea.com.au
Cooking tips through the hot rinse cycle in a Imprint House imprinthouse.net Kenzo (02) 9695 4811,
kenzostore.com.au Koskela (02) 9280 0999, koskela.com.au
• When seasoning food, we use sea dishwasher, or wash them in hot
Little White Dish littlewhitedish.com.au The Lost and Found
salt and freshly ground pepper. soapy water, rinse well, place on a Department thelostandfounddepartment.com.au Maison
• To blanch an ingredient, cook it tray in a cold oven and heat at 120°C Balzac maisonbalzac.com Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com
briefly in boiling water, then drain for 30 minutes. Miu Miu store.miumiu.com Mud Australia (02) 9569 8181,
it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty • To blind bake, line a pastry-lined tart mudaustralia.com Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Onsite
of iced water, then drain it. tin with baking paper, then fill it with onsitesupply.com Prada (02) 9223 1688, prada.com Ralph
• We recommend using free-range weights (ceramic weights, rice and Lauren 1800 501 201 Royal Doulton 1300 852 022,
eggs, chicken and pork. We use dried beans work best). royaldoulton.com.au Spence & Lyda (02) 9212 6747,
female pork for preference. • To test whether marmalade, jam or spenceandlyda.com.au Surface Gallery (02) 9566 2002,
• Makrut lime leaves are also known jelly is at setting point, you’ll need surfacegallery.com.au Tiffany & Co 1800 829 152, tiffany.com.au
Top3 by Design 1300 867 333, top3.com.au Vanessa Bean
as kair lime leaves. a chilled saucer. Remove the pan
vanessabean.com West Elm westelm.com.au Woo Ceramics
• To dry-roast spices, cook in a dry from the heat, spoon a little mixture wooceramics.com Zara 1800 830 148, zara.com/au
pan, stirring over medium-high heat onto the saucer and return it to
until fragrant. Cooking time varies. the freezer for 30 seconds, then
• RSPCA Australia’s advice for killing draw your finger through the
crustaceans humanely is to render mixture – it should leave a trail,
the animals insensible by placing indicating that it’s reached setting This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and
disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with
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PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY
crustaceans must then be killed measure when the mixture reaches service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA,
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Fare exchange
100 gm brown sugar With the motor running, slowly heat, stirring continuously
150 ml tamari pour in the oils until a smooth as heat increases, then cook
60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil mayonnaise consistency, adding until seeds rise to the surface
1small (about 1kg) buttercup a little more water if necessary, and start making a popping
pumpkin (see note), peeled and season to taste with salt. sound (15-20 minutes; be
and cut into wedges, seeds 2 Preheat oven to 165°C. careful, hot oil will spit). Remove
discarded Scatter half the sugar on an with a slotted spoon and drain
250 ml (1 cup) vegetable or oven tray lined with baking on paper towels. Drain oil and
canola oil, for shallow-frying paper and drizzle with 50ml wipe out pan. Return pufed
25 gm pepitas tamari and half the olive oil. seeds to pan over medium heat
Tamari-roasted 50 gm sunflower seeds Place pumpkin on the tray, then and toss to dry out (1-2 minutes),
Finely grated horseradish, sprinkle it with the remaining then add remaining tamari and
pumpkin, and small dill sprigs, to serve sugar and drizzle with another toss until glazed and slightly
sunlower and SUNFLOWER CREAM 50ml tamari and remaining olive sticking to pan (1-2 minutes).
150 gm sunflower seeds, soaked oil. Cover with baking paper Transfer to paper towels to cool.
horseradish overnight in plenty of water then tightly cover with foil and 4 Divide pumpkin among plates,
SERVES 4-6 AS A STARTER OR SIDE 50 ml lemon juice bake until barely softened spoon juices over and top with
// PREP TIME 25 MINS
1½ tbsp tamari (20-25 minutes), then turn tamari seeds. Spoon sunflower
// COOK 40 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)
60 ml (¼ cup) grapeseed oil pumpkin and bake, still covered, cream around over and top with
Begin this recipe a day ahead 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil until soft (10-15 minutes). horseradish and dill to serve.
to soak the seeds. Remove and keep covered Note Buttercup pumpkin is a
Etta, 60 Lygon Street, 1 For sunflower cream, strain loosely with foil to keep warm. small variety with dark green
Brunswick East, Vic, the seeds and blend in a blender 3 Meanwhile, heat vegetable skin and sweet, dry flesh. Find
(03) 9448 8233, with lemon juice, tamari and oil, pepitas and sunflower seeds them at select greengrocers or
ettadining.com.au 100ml water until combined. in a saucepan over medium substitute a small Jap pumpkin.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. GLUTEN-FREE ADVICE ACCREDITED DIETITIAN & NUTRITIONIST NICOLE SALIBA (EAT-SENSE.COM.AU)
Recipe index
SOUPS, STARTERS, Stir-fried beetroot leaves with Fried chicken burger with smoky SEAFOOD
SNACKS AND SIDES coconut and spices ●●● ..........45 mayo, cos and pickles ●............58 Snapper with broccolini and
Beetroot salad with barley Tamari-roasted pumpkin, sunflower Greek lamb chops with nori-miso butter ●● ....................62
and hazelnut ●●●....................... 44 and horseradish ●●.................. 169 braised silverbeet, feta
Broccoli soup and and oregano ●● ............................60 DESSERTS AND SWEETS
cheesy toast ●● ..........................98 VEGETABLES Lamb meatballs, risoni, yoghurt Caramel pumpkin pie ●● .............107
Deep-fried pufed Andalucian spinach and and cucumber ●......................... 120 Grape and rapadura tart ●●.........113
bread ●● ..................................... 128 chickpeas ●...................................94 Mum’s lasagne .................................94 H ’n’ R banana royale ●●●......... 125
Gorgonzola croquettes Cauliflower curry with lime Mum’s silverbeet rolls ●............... 103 Lemon delicious pudding ●●.......99
and quince ketchup ●●●●..... 119 and coriander ●●●......................61 Orange, chickpea and Lemon-buttermilk tart ●●............. 110
Grilled radicchio and orange Dal with spinach ●●● .................. 130 crisp-skinned duck salad Mum’s chocolate ripple
salad with Grand Marnier Eggplant in yoghurt sauce ●●● .. 133 with mint ●● .................................62 cake ●●●......................................96
vinaigrette ●●●.......................... 119 Mixed vegetable and Orecchiette with turnip tops, Pan-fried bananas with salted
Heidi’s kale salad ●●●................ 103 tamarind curry ●●●...................132 bacon and lemon ●● ............... 105 maple caramel and vanilla
Radishes and turnips Spicy lotus roots ●●●.................. 128 Pizza diavola ● ................................123 ice-cream ●●................................63
with yoghurt dip and Potato gnocchi with tuco ...............95 Pear tarte Tatin ● ............................ 115
cornmeal crackers ●●●●....... 106 MEAT AND POULTRY Prime-rib minute steak, Rhubarb galette ●● ........................114
Roasted carrot salad, Braised pork and fennel spiced eggplant and Salted-caramel macadamia tart
pepper sauce, olive oil sausages with braised lemon couscous .........................124 with chocolate ganache ●● .... 112
and curd ●●● ............................ 122 lentils and rosemary ●................58 Rooster pie ...................................... 106 Squished apple tart ● ......................111
Sesame potatoes ●●●.................133 Chicken curry with pickled Tagliatelle with pumpkin, Vanilla custard and
Silverbeet stalk gratin ●● ........... 104 pineapple ●................................... 97 pancetta, chilli and sage ●........59 burnt-tofee tart ●●.....................114
SIMPLE GLUTEN-FREE VEGETARIAN CAN BE PREPARED AHEAD
Chefs’ recipes
Fare exchange
Recipes you’ve requested from
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RECIPE HAYDEN McMILLAN. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR.
Tamari-roasted pumpkin,
sunflower and horseradish
STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD STYLING MAX ADEY
“I really enjoyed the tamari

pumpkin with seeds at Etta
in Melbourne and would love
to try it at home. Can you
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Beth Myers, South Yarra, Vic Platter from Chuchu. Side
plate from The Essential
Ingredient. Fork from The
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169
p
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