cos magazine

1.09

Vol.
Color Forecast
What’s ahead for Spring/Summer ’10

Nature’s bounty
“Naturally beautiful” –
new interpretations, innovations, and opportunities

Complete protection
against the sun
The trend toward healthy skin – from one source
02 / F r o m th e e di t o r s
Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller, left
and Dr. Hansjürgen Driller, right.
cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
Dear cosmetics professionals,
Welcome to the first issue of COSmagazine, a Merck magazine devoted to today’s cosmetics industry.
We hope you’ll enjoy it as much as we do.
You might be wondering why we’ve launched a magazine specifically for cosmetics. At Merck, our
customers are incredibly important to us, so we think it’s equally important to share the latest insight
with you on a regular basis – about issues in cosmetics that matter to you most. And as trends
change so rapidly in cosmetics, our customers need to stay ahead of key developments. With this tool,
Merck will spread the latest news on a regular basis.
“That’s what’s in it for you” was our guiding principle in creating this biannual magazine. Inside,
you’ll find all the latest on Merck products, research, and support – from research to formulation and
regulatory affairs. Two stories in this edition explore protection against the sun plus the “natural”
products trend and eco-positioning. Another feature is our highly popular Color Forecast – be sure to
look for it in every issue! COSmagazine also includes news and upcoming industry events, such as this
year’s In-Cosmetics from April 21-23, 2009.
COSmagazine is, really, about you: how Merck can assist you in developing application technologies,
sorting out regulatory affairs, conducting precise research, or finding exactly the right formulation –
just to name a few of the things we do besides supply raw materials and products. COSmagazine is
more of what you want – more information, more support, more inspiration. That’s what’s in it for you.
We’d be delighted to hear what you think about the subjects covered in this issue or its look and feel.
Please drop our editorial team a line at cosmagazine@merck.de
See you at In-Cosmetics!
Sincerely,
Dr. Hansjürgen Driller Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller
Director Global Business Cosmetic Actives Director Global Business Pigments for Cosmetics
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m W h a t’s in sid e / 0 3

08 COLOR FORECAST
The rundown on popular color choices
and trends for Spring/Summer ’10.

02 From the editors 10 Special report: 16 In-Cosmetics

Welcome to COSmagazine!
What’s in it for you?
the “natural” trend An exciting look at complete protec-
tion against the sun as well as plenty
“Natural” encompasses many things.
of new items in color cosmetics and
We tell you what you need to know about
personal care. Join us at Booth D700!
certification, natural ingredients, and raw

03 What’s inside materials – and how you can stay ahead

of the trend.
Find everything you need at a glance.
16 Events
Mark your calendar! And don’t miss

04 Special report: 14 Recent another opportunity to meet Merck in

person. Find every important date here.

complete protection developments

against the sun
Skincare is changing – can your products
keep pace? We examine why protection
needs to extend beyond preventing sunburn.
Don’t miss the special section on how to
double your SPF.
The Cosmetic Forum, a new pigment,
four fillers, a new active ingredient,
increased production – all the latest
from Merck, all right here. Be the first
to know!
04 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : c om p l e t e p ro t ect io n ag ainst t he sun cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Special report: complete protection again st th e su n / 0 5

EVERYTHING
under
THE

The isn’t sunscreen

enough? days are
SUN
long gone. Proper WITHOUT THE SUN, LIFE ON EARTH WOULDN’T
BE THE SAME. Our crops wouldn’t grow. Our
bodies wouldn’t produce essential Vitamin D.

protection against In fact, life as we know it wouldn’t exist!

And what about the indirect benefits of sun-
light? We use it to disinfect drinking water,

the sun sees skin as for instance, and cure adhesives. Activities
that we take for granted today. But what about
the damaging effects of the sun?

a complete entity – HEALTHY SKIN SHOULD NEVER BE TAKEN FOR

GRANTED. Although it nourishes our crops

and offers a ­complete and helps us produce potable water, sunlight

also contains UV radiation. We know that
prolonged exposure to this radiation invites

range of products sunburn and skin cancer – and it assaults

our bodies’ natural defenses. As ever, it’s
important to wear sunscreen, but protection

to match. from the sun goes beyond protection against

sunburn. >>
06 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : c om p l e t e p ro t ect io n ag ainst t he sun
>> Across-the-board protection – it’s
here to stay. As we discover how our skin
reacts to the sun, we must develop solutions
that meet its changing needs. Thanks to ex-
tensive research, we know that damage goes
beyond sunburn. Healthy skin starts with
SPF – but it doesn’t stop there. Any com­
petitive range of products will need to offer
complete protection.
COMPREHENSIVE PROTECTION FROM ONE
SOURCE. At Merck, we’ve developed a variety
of ingredients and additives that do precisely
this. As well as blocking UV rays, they counter­
act the build-up of free radicals and help
shield skin’s living cells from further damage.
Let’s explore each component and how they
benefit you. For a real-life example of how
to dramatically boost your SPF performance,
please refer to our interview.
TREND: Who said complete protection against
the sun can’t look good? Stand-out sunscreen
and after sun products can also contain inter­
ference pigments – such as gold or red – that
lend skin a healthy, natural glow. //
cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
INterview:
Twice the SPF – An interview
with Dr. Frank Pflücker
COSmagazine: Is it true you can significantly increase your total SPF with
just one agent?
Dr. Pflücker: It is – just add Eusolex® UV-Pearls™.
COSmagazine: How does that work?
Dr. Pflücker: Let’s assume you’re interested in having a formula contain-
ing avobenzone and octocrylene at 5 :1 ratio and a total UV filter content
of 12% which has been formulated via the oil phase. You’ll be able to get
Sun Protection ­Factors of approximately 10-12. If you then add 2% of EHMC
as encapsulated filter – our Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ OMC – you double your
total SPF in vivo to approximately 20-24.
COSmagazine: That’s a pretty dramatic boost. Is this always the case?
Dr. Pflücker: Well, you won’t always see a 100% jump. It depends
on your specific formula, the encapsulated filter used and the SPF of
the ­original formula. In any case it’s worth screening for this effect in any
formulation – Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ will definitely add value to your
UV filter’s performance.
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Special report: complete protection again st th e su n / 07
Eusolex® UV-Pearls™:
the first line of defense against UVA and UVB radiation
What. Invisible to the naked eye, these UV
filters are entrapped in a shell of sol-gel
silica glass. The filters remain on the top
layers of the skin, and the highly stable
capsules will not dissolve. The capsules also Benefits. Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ work like
avoid direct contact of active ingredients
with the skin and will not mix with other
substances that might be incompatible.
How. Using these capsules, you can de-
­­
ploy lipophilic UV filters into the formula’s
IN LINE WITH NEW EU REGULATIONS
Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ B-O fulfill the new
UVA recommendations stipulated by the
European Commission and COLIPA:
– UVA protection factor at least 1/3 of
labeled SPF
RonaCare® AP:
the tireless assault on free radicals
What. Much more than a highly stable
antioxidant, this colorless and completely
transparent cosmetic oil works to neutral-
ize free radicals. Its advanced efficacy
mechanism is especially appropriate for
those radicals caused by UV exposure.
Likewise, when RonaCare® AP is converted
to its oxidized form upon radical scaveng-
ing, it provides ongoing protection from
the negative effects of the sun.
How. RonaCare® AP dims oxidative stress
during the day, it prevents free radicals
from forming after the sun has set, and
RonaCare® Ectoin:
the champion of living skin cells
What. This natural substance helps living
cells cope with the stress of UV radiation
and other environmental stressors.
How. It supports every aspect of our skin’s
natural defense system – even its repair
mechanisms. What’s more, RonaCare®
Ectoin protects our skin’s very cells and
delicate matrix.
Why. Living cells are susceptible to
numerous stress situations like elevated
Service:
MERCK EXPERTISE IS AT YOUR SERVICE!
Thinking about rounding out your range
of products? Visit one of our Application
­Technology Centers in:
Brazil, France, United States, Taiwan,
China, and Germany
­aqueous phase and even combine with
other UV filters in the oil phase.
Why. Exaggerated UV irradiation is known
to prematurely age skin and damage DNA.
sunglasses for our skin, screening out UV ra-
diation at its first point of contact. They also
offer greater flexibility in formulation – by
combining the pearls in the aqueous phase
with other filters in the oil phase.
– Determination of UVA protection factor
by preferably an in vitro method or by the
in vivo PPD method
– Critical wavelength must be > 370 nm
provides protection from free radicals
during the night.
Why. UV radiation can penetrate the
skin’s upper layers, creating free radicals
and other reactive species that may lead
to damaged DNA and skin cancer sooner
or later.
Benefits. Incredibly effective and remark-
ably stable over the long term, RonaCare® AP
outperforms conventional antioxidants
like Vitamin C or Tocopherol. It works day
and night, functioning much longer than
conventional sun protection products.
temperatures, dryness and, in particular,
UVA radiation, one of the key catalysts
of skin aging.
Benefits. No cosmetic product that pro-
tects skin against the sun is complete with-
out RonaCare® Ectoin. Very easy to process,
this substance helps keep skin looking fresh,
increases skin’s moisture retention for up to
five days at a time, and – most importantly –
bolsters the skin’s defenses against UV rays.
Our representatives would be delighted to
assist you with formulations or answer any
questions you might have about applica-
tion technologies. Simply contact your local
sales partner for more information.
08 / C o l o r For e c a s t cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e

Color Forecast Spring/Summer ’10

Global Heritage 2010

In cosmetics, you always need to be thinking about what’s around the corner. With the Color Forecast from Merck
­Chemicals, you’ll know what trends are coming your way. The Spring/Summer ’10 season continues to draw on
global fashion heritage. Whisper and Vestiges pay tribute to the classics, from antiquity to the golden age of couture.

Whisper Show Girls

WHISPER gives minimalism a sensual and poetic twist, balancing the classic
and visionary. Beauty adopts an understated nude look, but lends a touch
of color and glamour, such as pulpy lips or textures applied in unexpected
places – like the arch of an eye. As well as boosting the complexion and gently
redefining features, make-up moisturizes and diminishes the signs of aging.
The natural nude look exudes a healthy glow, and classic beauty takes on an
experimental edge.
SHOW GIRLS is rooted in every facet of nightlife – from the fanciful to the
fast-paced. Eclectic looks slip effortlessly between day and night. The multi-
shade palette is equally flamboyant, ranging from ultra darks to dirty pastels.
High shine and bright colors are stage-ready for the bold, smudged for the
modest – but always seem slightly overdone. “Girly” punks and cabaret sirens
delight in color everywhere – cheeks, lips, eyes, and nails.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Cold and clear tones pivot around mock whites, beiges, DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Light and dark jewel tones emerge – even as pastels.
and pearl-inspired, barely-tinged pastels with mauve and pink overtones. Whether multicolor or monochromatic, very matte, high shine, and metallic
effects steal the show.

Portraits: © Luis Huber, make-up artist – Munich

w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Colo r F o re c a st / 0 9

Where minimalist Whisper nods to the future, Vestiges updates the classics by crossing them with timeless inspirations from
around the globe. Wild Deluxe and Show Girls tap into new sources of energy and creativity, whether infusing functional
workwear with renewed femininity in Wild Deluxe or playing with the over-the-top cabaret and rebel styles of Show Girls.

Vestiges Wild Deluxe

VESTIGES updates the classics by crossing them with universal basics to
­create looks that transcend cultures and regions. It’s a carefully crafted
style that likes to play with the unconventional. Time-honored beauty
basics take their cues from ancient Egypt. Mineral reflections and gemstone
colors abound, radiating romance and feminine charm. Mesopotamian
­goddesses find a new home in modernity with bare lips, striking eyeliners,
and iridescent sheens.
WILD DELUXE infuses the urban jungle with a spirited sense of the outdoors.
Utilitarian looks lose none of their femininity. Whether halfway down the
street or halfway around the world, beauty stays vibrant, recalling days
spent in the sun. Complexions are warm and luscious, playing with a mineral
sheen or touch of gold. Sun-touched loveliness takes on the evening with
a rich palette. Jewel-toned powders and pigments beckon with velvety and
sparkling textures.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE The palette centers on blues, from aquamarine to jade. DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Colors evoke a natural yet sophisticated look:
Subtle sand, stone, and ivory neutrals soften the look, while gold adds an ­sun-kissed tones, charred shades, and rich pigments punctuated with copper,
antique edge. brass, and gold.
10 / S p e c i a l r e p o r t : t h e “ n a t u ral” t rend
The natural part
of cosmetics –
a trend that’s
rapidly gaining ground.
Merck shares what’s behind the movement,
how it affects you, and how you can make your mark.
People think quite differently about
“nature” than they did ten or even
five years ago. Some attribute this
new mindset to climate change,
others say it’s an understandable
“back to the roots” response to
increasing urbanization. Whatever
the reason, this trend toward natu-
ral products permeates our every-
day lives. Such as all those hypo­
allergenic products on the market.
Or companies that use energy more
efficiently during production. And
let’s not forget about cosmetics,
where the source of raw materials is
attracting more and more attention.
But what does “natural” mean? And
how does Merck help you use this
to your advantage?
“Natural” is actually an umbrella
term that applies to the cosmetics
industry in several different ways.
We’ve done our homework here at Merck and
have identified the most salient ones for you:
certification, natural ingredients, and raw
materials. Let’s explore how “natural” shapes
each issue.
NAVIGATE YOUR WAY
THROUGH NATURAL
­CERTIFICATION LABELS.
A seal of approval from reputable institu-
tions is a fast, relatively simple, and highly
visible way of communicating a product’s
eco-friendliness. Trying to find one single
guideline or definition of a natural product
is a fruitless task – it doesn’t exist! In fact,
regulatory bodies, economic interest groups,
and industry associations have drawn up their
own standards. This means that there are a
number of private and independent organiza-
tions that certify natural products. Two major
players in Europe are ECOCERT and NaTrue.
cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
ECOCERT
Active in over 80 countries, ECOCERT
inspects and certifies food and non-food
products such as cosmetic products and
raw materials, perfumes, and textiles. This
organization audits both finished products
and manufacturers, differentiates between
natural ingredients and ingredients of natural
origin, and has even identified which ingre-
dients cannot be used. Among other stan-
dards, ECOCERT stipulates that a minimum
of 95% of the total ingredients are natural
ingredients or ingredients of natural origin
(as determined by ECOCERT). Certificates
require extensive documentation and must
be renewed every year.
NaTrue
Founded in 2008, NaTrue is the European
Interest Grouping for manufacturers of
natural and organic skin care and cosmetic
products. So far, this organization does not
certify ingredients – only finished cosmetic
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m
products are subject to review. NaTrue will
only accept a raw material if it’s produced
according to NaTrue criteria. Even if a
particular substance is listed as nature-
identical, manufacturers still have to fill out
the certifier’s Raw Material Documentation
Form – every single time.
Merck is working with ECOCERT to obtain
raw materials certificates for all substances
with a natural or nature-identical back-
ground. Not all products, however, can be
certified for several reasons.
We’re also joining forces with NaTrue to tell
you which of our raw materials are eligible
for your NaTrue certification and final prod-
ucts. This helps you make the most of the
“natural” trend – and communicate the right
information to your customers, and your
customers’ customers. >>
If you’re looking to obtain certification from these two bodies, you’ll need to submit extensive
documentation. Merck can help. Plenty of our products are already certified – one way we make the
process easier for you. You’ll also find our Cosmetic Ingredient Dossiers (CIDs) – over 350 in total –
extremely helpful in saving you time and money.
What’s in our CIDs for you?
Assured safety. Since our CIDs usually contain more data than the law requires, you can be sure
that your products meet or exceed every requirement – and you don’t have to worry about gaps.
End-to-end documentation. Each CID features a thorough rundown of regulatory information,
chemical data, and safety evaluations – complete with safety data sheets and toxicological profiles.
Constant updates. Whenever the law or formulation changes, we’ll adapt our CIDs accordingly.
So you’ll always have accurate information at your fingertips.
CIDs are essential in quality management, especially where regulation is concerned. But they can also
help you obtain eco-friendly certification more quickly and inexpensively - also essential if you want
to keep pace with the natural trend.
ECOCERT NaTrue
This seal Certifies raw Founded in 2008, this label
materials and cosmetic covers three “grades” of natural
products. Learn more cosmetics. Visit www.natrue.org
at www.ecocert.com for more information.
12 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : t h e “ n a t u ral” t rend
CARE: A GOOD
MATCH WITH NAT­
URAL INGREDIENTS.
>> You could say that certifica-
tion looks outward – to logos
and brands, for example. But that
natural trend also looks inward –
to ingredients. Mother Nature has
developed her own highly useful
mechanisms for warding off attacks
and environmental stressors as well
as for locking in moisture. That’s a
valuable lesson, and we’ve trans-
formed those systems into inno­
vative substances designed to care
for skin in a variety of ways.
Whether they’re natural, derived
from nature, or nature-identical,
these eight substances aim to deliver
effective results as they imitate natu-
ral processes. So you won’t have to
compromise on performance or lose
out to the competition in capitalizing
on the eco-friendly trend.
RonaCare® Isoquercetin NEW
Isoquercetin is the bioflavonoid that keeps
apples – and our skin – looking fresh and at-
tractive. A powerful antioxidant, Rona­Care®
Isoquercetin scavenges superoxide anion
radicals, which lead to tissue damage and
accelerated skin aging. It also prevents
the formation of AGE (Advanced Glycation
Endproducts), one of the many catalysts
of skin aging.
RonaCare® Tiliroside NEW
Tiliroside is known to protect young, tender
leaves in certain tropical plants. Purified
from its natural source, tiliroside extends its
benefits to human skin. As well as working
as an antioxidant, RonaCare® Tiliroside is
highly effective in preventing inflammatory
processes. It also delivers anti-aging benefits,
especially to dry and sensitive skin.
RonaCare® Troxerutin
A derivative of natural rutin, this substance
combines Merck expertise and natural active
ingredients to bring you an anti-inflamma-
tory agent. RonaCare® Troxerutin also boosts
microcirculation of the blood and lymph.
cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
RonaCare® Rutinsulfate
Another derivative of natural rutin, Rona­
Care® Rutinsulfate is a valuable addition to
any anti-cellulite product. It’s also suited
to a number of other applications thanks
to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
properties.
RonaCare® Ectoin
Found in deserts and salt lakes, halophilic
bacteria developed a protection mechanism
based on ectoine to minimize the stress
resulting from high UV irradiation, dryness,
and changes in temperature. Today, we know
that ectoine is present in many microorgan-
isms – and that natural ectoine benefits skin
in a number of ways. RonaCare® Ectoin uses
this substance to support repair mechanisms,
help prevent premature aging, and hydrate to
keep skin looking younger, longer.
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m
RonaCare® Emblica
Isolated from natural emblica fruit, this
­substance is primarily known as a safe and
effective skin-brightening agent. It also
works as a powerful cascading antioxidant,
and other applications use RonaCare® Em-
blica as an anti-aging ingredient.
RonaCare® Bisabolol
Obtained from natural chamomile, RonaCare®
Bisabolol is an excellent anti-inflammatory
ingredient. Well suited to sensitive skin, this
substance also shows anti-bacterial properties.
RonaCare® Luremin™ NEW
Identical to the substances found in certain
kinds of rhubarb and rhododendron – plus
its use in traditional Chinese and Japanese
remedies – RonaCare® Luremin™ offers all of
the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle advantages
of retinol without the disadvantages. What’s
more, RonaCare® Luremin™ shows anti-
inflammatory properties and an excellent
stability and toxicology profile.
Special report: the “na tu ra l” tre n d / 1 3
NATURALLY GORGEOUS all over the world promote mineral
DECORATIVES NEED THE use in a number of ways – some
focus on the ingredients, ­others
RIGHT RAW MATERIALS. highlight the finished product
properties. This is good news for
Another branch of the natural trend explores you. With no standard in place,
minerals and how to add a “precious touch” you’re free to decide how to best
to cosmetics. The earth’s crust is an excel- play up minerals in your cosmetics.
lent place to start – it’s loaded with minerals
such as mica as well as gemstones (to a lesser Already know how you’re going
extent) like diamonds and rubies. Mineral to tap into this trend? Merck has
make-up, one of the very latest trends functional fillers and pigments in
in cosmetics, takes its cues from these raw place. Our RonaFlair™ MTU and
materials. RonaFlair™ LF-2000 fillers help
Using minerals in cosmetic products ex- bring minerals to life in founda-
presses a certain affinity with nature. In fact, tions and concealers, improving
more and more con- application and wearing proper-
sumers are subscribing ties. Pigments also add a genuine
to the safe and healthy mineral look and feel. Our inter-
image that these in­ ference pigments (in the Ronastar®
gredients offer. How­ and Timiron® series) and colored
ever, no clear definition pearl pigments (in the Colorona®
of “mineral” exists in range) help you visualize your
cosmetics. Companies gemstone story. //
14 / N e ws
A NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENT TO
RIVAL RETINOL: RONACARE® LUREMIN®
Despite a justified reputation, retinol has its
drawbacks – stability and possible skin irritation
to name a few. Good thing there’s RonaCare®
­Luremin®, a brand-new active ingredient from
Merck featuring a revolutionary molecule that
delivers benefits similar to retinol.
All the advantages of retinol…
Both are designed to diminish the appearance of
wrinkles and aging. And they’re a close match in
effectiveness. Another shared benefit: a similar
gene activation pattern in skin cells. In fact, Merck
has conclusively demonstrated that RonaCare®
Luremin® works at the molecular level. Last but
not least, both RonaCare® Luremin® and retinol
stimulate collagen synthesis.
…without the disadvantages!
Internal studies have shown that RonaCare®
Luremin® – a nature-identical substance –
has fewer side effects, is less irritable to the
skin, exhibits greater stability, and has a
perfect toxicological profile.
To learn more about this innovative alternative
to retinol, visit www.merck-chemicals.de.
FIVE TIMES THE OXYNEX® ST LIQUID
Merck knows how to build on a good thing. Take
Oxynex® ST Liquid: it stablizes colors and odors as
well as light-sensitive substances. Knowing that
the demand for stable colors and odors will grow,
Merck is now quintupling its production capacity
for Oxynex® ST Liquid in Goa, India. The outcome:
more of your needs met. In more parts of the
world, and closer to your own operations.
The new facilities will adhere to GMP production
standards, which are in force around the world
and monitor the quality and safety of drugs and
the substances used in their manufacture. But
what’s in this expansion for you? You’ll benefit
from twice the expertise in one product – from
the research wizards in Darmstadt and production
professionals in India.
PRE-REGISTRATION COMPLETE FOR
REACH COMPLIANCE
December 1, 2008 has come and gone – that was
the final day to pre-register all cosmetic pigment
components and cosmetic active ingredients
that must comply with REACH. You’ll be pleased
to know that we’ve met this deadline for you.
A proactive approach to legislation and time-
frames: just another way you can take advantage
of Merck’s expertise in highly regulated markets.
cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
PRODUCTION IMPACTS OVERALL
PROTECTION – EUSOLEX® UV-PEARLS™
COMES TO GERMANY
Despite their miniscule size, Eusolex® UV Pearls™
are genuine multi-taskers. With a UV filter encap-
sulated in sol-gel silica glass, these capsules can
be used in the aqueous phase and won’t dissolve –
they’re that stable. They also avoid direct skin
contact and contact with other substances that
might prove incompatible. And now, Merck is in-
creasing production of these filters – and moving
it to Germany.
What’s in it for you? At Merck, we’re planning on
growing Eusolex® UV Pearls™ into an extensive
portfolio of UVA and UVB products, helping us stay
on top of the trend toward complete protection
against the sun. By moving production of the
capsules to Darmstadt, we’ll be able to tie this
technology much more seamlessly into R&D –
meaning more tailor-made products, more quickly.
And you can get back to business.
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m
COSMETIC FORUM: A RETROSPECTIVE
Complete protection against the sun, the natural
cosmetics trend, and GHS and REACH compli-
ance: just some of the many topics explored at
the Merck Cosmetic Forum on January 27, 2009.
As has always been the case in cosmetics, new
products need to roll out constantly. To support
industry professionals in accomplishing this,
Merck has taken the lead over the last seven years
with an annual forum. This event gives customers
in German-speaking countries the opportunity
to meet, share ideas, ask questions, and gain fresh
inspiration.
Many participants took advantage of one-on-one
appointments for the next day with Merck experts
in application technology. Immediate follow-up
and in-depth discussions with the right people –
that’s precisely what we mean at Merck when we
say we react more quickly and individually to your
needs. And that’s what’s in it for you when Merck
is at your side.
All work and no play, however, makes for a one-
sided forum. After untangling the intricacies
of trends and regulatory affairs, guests unwound
with the intrigue of a mystery dinner theater.
BALANCE, MATTIFY, AND BEAUTIFY –
4 NEW FILLERS
Merck customers can now take advantage of
four new fillers. As well as providing a soft skin
feel, each filler helps you improve your products’
performance in areas such as compressibility
and skin adhesion. And as you’ve come to expect
from Merck, these four new fillers do an excellent
job of “filling” skin.
What makes RonaFlair™ Balance Gold, RonaFlair™
Balance Red, and RonaFlair™ Balance Blue so
unique? These functional interference fillers that
both balance and mattify are found nowhere else
on the market, giving you a definitive edge over
your competitors.
RonaFlair™ Softshade is specifically designed to
help skin look more beautiful. It diffuses light so
skin appears more even and balanced. RonaFlair™
Softshade also works to diminish the appearance
of fine lines.
As with all of our fillers, Merck would be delighted
to advise you on application technologies.
News / 15
DAZZLE WITH COLOR TRAVEL:
Xirona® Volcanic Sparks
A luminous, fiery glow that glitters and b­ eckons.
From ravishing red to coquettish copper to
­glamorous gold, studded with intense sparkle
throughout. That’s Xirona® Volcanic Sparks, a
brand-new cosmetic pigment from Merck. Its
secret: very thin, smooth, and uniform Calcium
Aluminum Borosilicate platelets that are encap-
sulated by metal oxide layers. Xirona® Volcanic
Sparks is the only pigment on the market that
helps you achieve such stunning depth, vivid-
ness, and pure colors – and makes competitors’
products pale in comparison.
Versatile & transparent
With incredibly high transparency, you can also
highlight cosmetic formulas without ­changing
the formulation’s base color. What’s more, no
limitations on use level have been placed on
Xirona® Volcanic Sparks, but you’ll often find
that just a little is more than enough to produce
eye-catching shifts in color plus exceptional
­glitter. So go ahead – give creativity free reign
when designing color cosmetics and personal
care products.
Xirona® Volcanic Sparks is approved for use
around the world. If you’d like your products to
turn heads, order a complimentary sample from
your local sales representative today.
16 / E v e m ts cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e

Published by
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE – AT IN-COSMETICS Merck KGaA
Performance & Life Science
Chemicals
Will three days be enough? Complete protection against the sun Frankfurter Strasse 250
Merck has plenty to showcase in color cosmetics, will be on hand, too. 64293 Darmstadt
personal care, and sun care. And the information We’ll be launching our UVA filter Eusolex® UV- Germany
to match – thanks to two presentations on func- Pearls™ B-O to broaden our portfolio of refined UV
tional fillers and superior sunscreen solutions as filters within the Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ range. Check Phone: +49 6151 72-6899
Fax: +49 6151 72-916899
part of the Innovation Seminars. out our encapsulated UV filters for the ­aqueous
cosmagazine@merck.de
phase. Or discover how to make truly superior
Color cosmetics and personal care ­sunscreens thanks to the chronoactive Editing & LAYOUT
are full of innovation. power of RonaCare® AP. RTS Rieger Team,
Four new fillers – RonaFlair™ Bal- www.rts-riegerteam.de
ance Gold, RonaFlair™ Balance Merck experts at the Cos­
Red, RonaFlair™ Balance Blue, metic Science Conference. DISCLAIMER
and RonaFlair™ Softshade – are Calling all formulators, bench We provide information and
groundbreaking additions to chemists, and R&D specialists! advice to our customers on
RonaFlair™. A new cosmetic pig- Dr. Corinna Wirth will outline application technologies
and regulatory matters to
ment, Xirona® Volcanic Sparks, Merck’s natural products research
the best of our knowledge
offers color travel and dramatic in her lecture, “Nature Meets
and ability, but without
sparkle in one. Timiron® Ice Crystal Technology: Reinvent Nature.”
warranty, obligation or
and Colorona® Precious Fine Gold, liability. Existing laws
both new on the market, delight with a Hear innovation speak. and regulations are to be
silvery glow and an intense golden sheen. Merck is hosting two Innovation Seminars: one observed in all cases by
on superior sunscreen solutions and another on our customers. This also
Personal care will also feature plenty multi-tasking functional fillers. That’s information applies in respect to any
of new items. with insight! rights of third parties. Our
RonaCare® Luremin™, for example, contains information and advice do
not relieve our customers
an all-new molecule that is comparable to the
of their own responsibility
benefits of retinol. Or explore all of the nature- discover all the details at this year’s
for checking the suitability
inspired products on display and learn how you ­in-cosmetics from April 21-23, 2009.
of our products for the
can capitalize on the eco-positioning trend. See you at Booth D700! envisaged purpose.

EVENTS IN 2009
04/21–04/23 in-cosmetics 2009, Booth D700, Munich, Germany www.in-cosmetics.com

05/12–05/13 SCC Suppliers Day, NJ Expo Center Edison, USA www.curtinproductions.com

06/04–06/05 SCC Chicago, USA www.scconline.org

09/09–09/13 2009 Sunscreen Symposium Orlando, USA www.scconline.org

10/07–10/09 IFSCC Melbourne, Australia www.iffscc.org

10/14–10/16 56th Sepawa Wuerzburg, Germany www.sepawa.com

10/25–10/28 Colamiq Guayaquil, Ecuador

This magazine is just a taste of Merck expertise and service.

Discover more of what’s in it for you at Merck at:
www.merck4cosmetics.com