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Textile

Certifications

For a Green & Ethical Fashion

nov.-12 1
For a Greeen & Ethical Fashion
1. ECOCERT – Activity
since 1991

ƒ CONTROL AND CERTIFICATION


¾ Organic agriculture ¾ Fair trade
• EC/NOP/JAS • Ecocert “EFT”
• National and private labels (Ecocert Fair Trade)
¾ Cosmetics • Private labels
• Ecocert “Natural and organic ¾ Environment
cosmetics” • Ecocert “Ecological green spaces”
• COSMOS (Eve®)
¾ Textiles • Companies management
• GOTS systems: ISO 14001, PEFC,
• Organic Exchange EMAS...
• Ecocert “Ecological & Recycled ¾ Food quality and safety
Textiles Standard” (ERTS) • ISO 9001, ISO 22000, OHSAS
¾ Ecological products 18000
• Ecocert “Natural cleaning products” • GLOBALG.A.P
• Ecocert “Natural and organic home • IFS/BRC
perfumes” • Third party control

nov.-12 2
For a Green & Ethical Fashion
1. ECOCERT - Group Organisation

ƒ INTERNATIONAL NETWORK

¾ 1 Head Office: Ecocert SA


923 sister companies
9Among them 3 in France

¾ Local presence in 20 countries


9 Inspections in 80 countries

¾ 540 employees worldwide in


2012
9 272 employees in France
9Among them 110 inspectors

A regional approach and a local service in order to guarantee


controls and traceability in all countries.

nov.-12 3
For a Green & Ethical Fashion
2. A global approach

Fiber world production

65%

43%

35%
57%

nov.-12 4
Source :Organic Exchange
For a Green & Ethical Fashion
2. A global approach

Source: Purvis consulting SCS

nov.-12 5
For a Green & Ethical Fashion
2. A global approach

nov.-12 6
For a Green & Ethical Fashion
2. A global approach

End of life

Impacts on:
ÎEnvironment
ÎSocial
ÎEconomy

nov.-12 7
For a green and ethical Fashion
3. Standards on the Market

Bluesign

GRS
For a green & ethical Fashion
3. Standards on the Market

Ecocert certifications :

Organic Textiles

Textiles made of organic cotton


(traceability & integrity of cotton fiber)

Ecological & recycled Textiles

Organic and Fair Trade Textiles

9
4. CERTIFICATION PROCESS

Asking for a quotation


application form / eligibility

contract

Materials and auxiliaries


documentairy validation +
packaging

Complementary
On-site inspections Lab Analysis
or unannouced
inspections
Study of audit file, non conformities
and corrective actions follow-up.
Issuing of Certificate
For a Green & Ethical fashion:
4. Organic Textiles - GOTS

Global Organic Textile


Standard

GOTS V3.0

ÎCreated by 4 associations involved into nature protection and organic farming:


OTA, IVN, JOCA, SOIL
Î 2011: GOTS V3.0

11
For a Green & Ethical fashion:
4. Organic Textiles - GOTS
SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT

Organic Farming Global Organic Textile


Certification Standard / Organic Exchange
under regulation or
recognized standard
(ex:EC, NOP)
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0

nov.-12 13
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0: Fiber content

« Organic » « made with X%


organic materials »
95% min of Organic
Fibers 70% min of Organic Fibers
5% max non-organic 30% max natural fibers
fibres including artificial not organic of which 10%
or synthetic max in artificial or
No mixing of a same synthetic fibers (25%
organic and not organic sportswear, socks)
fiber No mixing of a same
organic and not organic
fiber
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. GOTS V3.0 : Fiber content

nov.-12 15
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0: Accessories/trimmings
ƒ Fiber accessories or ƒ Non fiber accessories:
additionnal material:
All biotic or mineral
Î fibers as presented materials.
before and accepted for - no PVC
the main composition - no Chrome
- no Nickel
- no material coming
threaned animals,
wood…

Prohibited substances as defined in for chemical inputs


(dyestuffs, auxiliaries…)
Respect of residues limits for hazardous substances

nov.-12 16
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0: Production

ƒ Traceability and integrity of - Scope certificate


- Transaction certificate
the fibers and finished
- Bill of loading, Delivery
products note
ƒ Identification - Invoices
ƒ Separation principle, non - Quantities & amounts of
contamination by purchases and sales
unauthorized substances
- Positive list of
ƒ All mechanical and thermal chemical inputs :
process are authorized Dyestuffs, auxiliaries to be
ƒ For wet processing: approved before using in
- approval of chemical inputs production
- specific criteria for particular Î to be done by
accredited certification
treatment and finishing
body on this scope
nov.-12 17
For green and ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0: Chemical inputs
approval
ƒ List of forbidden substances • MSDS is required and is
the base of the
ƒ Substances and preparation assessment.
banned due to R-phrases • Checking form needs to
ƒ Eco-toxicity criteria be filled by the applicant
• Lab tests could be
ƒ Biodegradability criteria
required to confirm data
ƒ Specific criteria for:
- dyestuffs
- printing agents and dyes Issuance of Positive list
- finishing treatment avalaible for each GOTS
ƒ Natural Dyes: operators
- not compulsory Possible complementary
- should be from non Certification on
Natural dyeing with ERTS
threatened species

nov.-12 18
For green & ethical Fashion:
5. GOTS V3.0: Risk assessment
Risk assessment:
- Lab tests done by the
- Quality parameters : operator to probe the
colour fastness, compliance accordingly
shrinkage…. to its risk assessment
- residues limits for
banned substances (ex:
heavy metal, AOX, PCB,
carcinogenic - Lab tests done by
substances…) sampling during the
- assessment to be done certification process
by the operator
according to its
operations

nov.-12 19
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
4. GOTS V3.0: Environmental &
social responsibility
Environmental Social responsability:
responsaibility: - operators must have a policy
for social criteria
- Environmental policy with - Based on ILO conventions
program improvement and other human rights
- wastewater treatment unit conventions
for wet processing operation - Nomination of person for
(COD, pH, T°…) social accountability
- control & monitoring of - allow worker to nominate a
waste and discharges representative for social
- training of the employees accountability
- data on water & energy for - Health & safety
textile outpout.
- procedure to follow in case
of incidents

nov.-12 20
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles
Standard - ERTS

ECOLOGICAL & RECYCLED TEXTILES


STANDARD
ERTS V1.1
Main criteria
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles
Standard - ERTS
E.R.T.S - Field of Criteria

Organic ECO or
Fibers Recycled fibers

Eco-design
Production of fibers
Composition
Traceability -
Integrity
Production process
Environment
Quality – Security
Social / H&S
GRS
Composition Textile
Organic CCS Textile Exchange
Exchange Exchange
Fiber Traceability
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles
Standard - ERTS
70% mini of: ECO-friendly
- natural materials production
- materials coming processes
from renewable or respecting social
recycled materials criteria

Option 2:
Natural End-
dyeing consumer’s
health & safety
Option 1:
Environ-
mental
labelling Performances:
(CO2) Quality criteria

Maintaining
traceability
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles
Standard - ERTS
Eco-Design
ƒ Environmental policy:
Î The environmental policy should include an ECO-Design
approach for the development of new products (only for
operators dealing with designing)
ƒ Eco-Design :
- Criteria of the standard should be included very earlier in the
designing process
- The choices made during the design phase must take into
account environmental and social impacts, including:
. Choice of raw materials and their ability to be renewed or use of
recycled materials
. Production processes
. Conditions of production and social aspects
. Choice regarding the transport
. Choice regarding the packaging
. Product use and its end of life
The Life Cycle Analysis allow to support the choices done during this
approach.
For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles Standard -
ERTS
Fiber Production

70% minimum of the material composition


For a Green & Ethical Fashion:
5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles Standard -
ERTS

Textile production
Production:
- Criteria for selection of dyes and other auxiliaries following risk phrases, Eco-
toxicity, biodegradability, prohibited substances.
- Mechanical & thermal processes authorized
- Wet processing must use approved auxiliaries and dyes stuffs
- Cleaning products for tools and workshops
- Criteria for managing wastewater , discharges, packaging waste

Quality / Safety for finished product:


- Limits on residual forbidden substances on finished goods
- Criteria for color fastness and shrinkage
For a green and ethical Fashion

WWF Eco-design guide for


textiles and clothing

nov.-12 27
For a Green & Ethical Fashion

A garrantee for a sustainable world

Thank YOU

Vincent DURET
ECOCERT Greenlife – France
vincent.duret@ecocert.com

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