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9.What is marquee?
Marquee is an sign that Is used to displace the name of the store
10.List the different types of entrances
Revolving type of entrances
Push and pull entrances
Electronic entrances
Climate controlled entrances
11. What is window display?
Window display is the store’s “FIRST IMPRESSION” with the
customer. It begins the selling process even before the customer enters the
store. It suggest the type of merchandise carried in the store.
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PART-A
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PART-A
1. Define Merchandising
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What is Merchandising?
What is Merchandising?
Sample development.
Price negotiation.
Order confirmation.
Sourcing of materials.
Material collection.
Quality checking.
Quality: Should check the quality of the supplied goods and get
approval from the concern buying office.
P.P. (Pre Production) Meeting: the scheduling is done and target is also
fixed up. Meeting is arranged by the Junior Merchandiser but headed
by the Senior Merchandiser. Quality Manager, Maintenance Manage
etc. may be present in this meeting.
Arranging shipment.
Prepare costing according to the PDM and submit with the consent
of the higher authority.
When the costing and samples are approved, request the buyer to
confirm the order and to confirm the total order qty. per style along
with lead time.
Prepare a TNA(Time and Action) plan with the buyer to meet the
shipment without any problem.
If everything is ok, then place order with the fabric and accessories
supplier.
Request the buyer to provide color and size breakdown and request
the supplier to produce as per this breakdown.
After getting approval, request the supplier for bulk production and
in house the materials according the TNA.
If goods pass the inspection then inform the commercial dept. and
dispatch the goods to the port to hand over to the CNF (Clearer and
Forwarder)
1. Short-term forecasting:
2. Submission of Trimming:
Lab dips, strike offs (screen printed swatches), reeling of yarn in all
colours.
Packaging: ASN labels, chip board, jet clips, tissue paper, polybags,
etc.
3. Fit Testing:
Some fashion companies will require fit testing as part of the product
development process. In order to ensure proper fit, steps must be taken to
evaluate the garments comfort. This process is to both monitor the
manufacturer, but also to make sure the original size
specifications developed was proper. Even if the manufacturer follows the
spec file perfectly, during the fit process the fit technician may discover that
adjustments may be needed. Some companies will conduct the fit testing on
live fit models and others will do the testing in fit forms (mannequins). The
merchandisers should advise the supplier regarding which size garments
they wish to review for fit. Some companies will review only one size, and
others like to review the smallest and largest size. For example, if
production will be ordered in a scale including small thru double XL, they
may require one sample in size small and one in XXL for the fit review.
Again, the retailer (or company purchasing your product), should advise you
regarding the sizes they require for review.
4. Photo Samples:
Some retailers will require photo samples. These samples are utilized
for developing catalogs or advertising. Photo samples typically do not
require all final trimming such as brand labels, but the outside appearance of
the garment must be in correct silhouette and color. The photos must
represent exactly what the finished product will look like when shipped (the
outside visual appearance; does not need price tickets, hangers, (etc.).
5. Performance Testing:
This is a very important aspect of the product development process.
All products developed must pass performance testing requirements. It is
the suppliers responsibility to ensure that all products produced meet or
exceed the buyers performance standards. Before entering into an
agreement to manufacturer apparel, be certain to fully understand the quality
standard requirements requested by your buyers. It is normal practice to
have both fabric and garments tested before product is delivered. Typically,
the testing is done at a third party testing facility such as SGS,ITS, etc.
Often times the buyer is the one to assign the testing lab. Some times the
retailer (buyer) will submit the garments for testing. However, often the
buyer will require that the supplier submits the fabric and garments directly
to the testing laboratory and then provide them with copies of the test
results. Testing will be done prior to production and after final production is
complete. Many retailers will also do surprise testing on garments after they
arrive into the stores. This technique is used to discourage suppliers from
submitting garments for testing that are not actually the same quality as final
production.
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department
Sewing department
The work flows from the central (store) area to the first machine, from
the first machine back to the store, and then on to the next machine,
and so forth.
A worker for the second operation then continues the work and so on.
The process is ' collection - work -return' continues until the whole
garment has been assembled.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and
passes it to the next operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the
inter-process work between each operation.
This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry
today. It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Production system: Flexible flow system
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work can be
planned using the correct number of operators in sequence.
Garment parts of the same size and color are processed separately.
At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc., from other lines
also go down a central line.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production
line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an
overhead conveyor.
MANAGEMENT PROCESS
The various types of goods that can be bought and sold for profit
or
or
WHO IS A MERCHANT ?
MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT
Example : The ice-filled tubs of soda, next to the cash register at the
convenience store on a hot summer's day -- a merchandise manager
determined that more product would be sold by doing it.
BASIS OF RETAIL MERCHANDISING
RETAIL MERCHANDISING
MERCHANDISING
MERCHANDISE MANAGEMENT
ANALYSIS
PLANNING
ACQUISITION
Merchandise to be sold in retail store, needs to be procured from
others – either from distributors or manufacturers
HANDLING
CONTROL
The buyer for a chain store may have a fair amount of say in buying
price, as quantities are much larger than the single store
As chain store exists across regions and at times, across nations, buyer
has to keep regional preferences in mind
The buying for a mail order catalogue or for direct marketing or for an
e-tail venture would be completely different
Fashion products are those that may sell very well in one season or
year and may not be in demand in the next season
Fads are products which have a smaller life cycle, and when sales are
very high initially, the demand also dies down soon
Some organizations may demarcate the role of the buyer and the role
of the merchandiser as separate functions
While in smaller organization, one person may carry out all the duties
PLANNING
Merchandise managers formulate the policies for the areas for which
they are responsible
This involves the estimating of the consumer demand and the impact
of the changes occurring in retail environment
The sales forecasts are then translated into budgets , to help the buyers
within the financial guidelines
DIRECTING
Guiding and training buyers as and when the need arises, is also a
function of he merchandise manager
COORDINATING
Hence they need to coordinate the buying efforts in terms of how well
it fits in
CONTROLLING
Assessing not only the merchandise performance, but also the buyer’s
performance, is a part of the merchandise manager’s job
MERCHANDISE PLANNING
Sales of the past year for a period will give an indication of the sales
in the current year for the same
Bottom up planning
After the sales forecasting has been completed, the inventory levels need to
be
planned
It is a financial plan
The stock support plan, which tells us how much inventory or stock, is
needed to achieve those sales
The planned purchase levels, ie., the quantity of each product that
needs to be procured from he market
Any one of the four methods given below can be used for planning
Basic Stock = Average stock for the season – average monthly sales
Average monthly sales for the season = Total planned sales for the season
Average stock for the season = Total planed sales for the season
Illustration : Using the basic stock method, calculate BOM inventory for
the
It is calculated as under :
BOM Stock = Avg stock for the season x ½ [ 1 + (Planned Sales for the
month /
BOM Stock = Avg stock for the season x ½ [ 1 + (Planned Sales for the
month /
= 40,000 x ½ (1 + 1.2)
= 40,000 x ½ x 2.2
= 40,000 x 1.1
= 44,000
This method is very easy to use, but it requires the Retailer les ratio.
Illustration: Using the ales Ratio Method, calculate the BOM inventory for
the month of January, given the following information
= 28,000
Every department usually has its own stock turnover rate as different
merchandise need different speeds of selling
VISUAL MEANING
MERCHANDISING MEANING
It is the activity and profession of developing the floor plans and three
Make it easier for the customer to locate the desired category and
merchandise
Poor lighting
No point of view
Design should:
be flexible
The store itself makes the most significant and last impression
Once they are inside the store, convert them into customers
buying merchandise (space productivity)
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
Shoulder-out
Face-forward
METHODS OF DISPLAY
Shelving
Hanging
folding
Pegging
Dumping
DISPLAYED MERCHANDISE
Should be current
1. STORE FRONT
It includes:
Signs
Marquee
Entrances
Window Display
SIGNS
1.Promotional Signs
2.Location signs
3.Institutional signs
4.Informational signs
PROMOTIONAL SIGNS
LOCATION SIGNS
INSTITUTIONAL SIGNS
MARQUEE
The sign that is used to display the store name
ENTRANCES
TYPES OF ENTRANCES
WINDOW DISPLAYS
STORE INTERIOR
Lighting
Colors
Fixtures
Customers shop longer & are more relaxed and spend more when they
are not pressed by crowds, delays & long lines
Flood lightning: Ceiling lights to direct lights over an entire wide display area.
COLORS
STORE FIXTURES
Stands
Round rack
Bin
T-Stand
STANDS
BIN
A rimmed table or bin used to hold sale or special merchandise on the
sales floor, especially in discount operations; it has no formal
arrangement
T-STAND
2. STORE LAYOUT
The way the floor space is used to facilitate and promote sales and
best serve the customer
Selling Space
Merchandising Space
Personnel Space
Customer Space
SELLING SPACE
Includes:
Interior displays
Sales demonstration areas
(wrap desk)
MERCHANDISE SPACE
Selling floor
PERSONNEL SPACE
break rooms
lockers
restrooms
CUSTOMER SPACE
Restaurants
Dressing rooms
Lounges
Restrooms
Recreation area for children
Allocating more dollars and space for customer convenience than ever
before
Once the floor space has been allocated, management & visual
personnel spend a lot of time planning the effective use of the space.
VISUAL DECISIONS
Traffic patterns
FLOOR LAYOUT
Curves and angles of fixtures and walls makes for more expensive
store design
Soft angles create better traffic flow throughout the retail store
3. MERCHANDISE DISPLAYS
KINDS OF DISPLAYS
Closed Displays
Open Displays
Architectural Display
Point-of-Purchase
Store Decorations
CLOSED DISPLAYS
Jewellery cases
OPEN DISPLAY
Self-service
ARCHITECTURAL DISPLAYS
Furniture
POINT-OF-PURCHASE
Batteries
Candy
Magazines
STORE DECORATIONS
PROPS
TYPES OF PROPS
FUNCTIONAL PROPS
DECORATIVE PROPS
STRUCTURAL PROPS
IMPORTANCE OF INTERIOR DISPLAYS
INTERIOR DISPLAYS
The large display in a store including the mannequins & wall displays
are usually set up by visual department
Small table displays and fixture top displays are usually set up &
maintained by the individual department staff
At entrances to departments
Open-to-mall areas
Just to change around the pieces of a group that has been on the floor
for awhile
The same customers walk through your department every week – you
want it to look fresh
You want to give them a reason to buy
Mannequins
Alternatives to mannequins
Fixtures
Props
TYPES OF MANNEQUINS
Realistic
Semi realistic
Abstract
Semi-abstract
Headless
REALISTIC MANNEQUIN
SEMI REALISTIC
Is like realistic mannequin,
ABSTRACT
SEMI ABSTRACT
HEADLESS:
Has a full-size or
Drapers
Hangers
Pin up techniques
Flying techniques
THREE-QUARTER FORMS:
Representation of a part of the Human anatomy, such as the Torso, the bust
or the area from Shoulder to waist or from hips to ankles.
INFLATABLES
Lower half of the body And is used to show jeans and pants.
DRAPER
Was a simple, uncomplicated and often underused alternative to mannequin
HANGERS
Makes use of a panel, wall Or some vertical surface onto which a Garment
can be pinned, shaped and Dimensional zed.
LAY-DOWN TECHNIQUE
FLYING TECHNIQUES
ATMOSPHERICS
visual communications
lighting
color
sound
scent
To stimulate customers’ perceptual and emotional responses and
ultimately influence their purchase behavior
VISUAL COMMUNICATIONS
Institutional signage
Lifestyle Graphics
Sound
Scent
Introduction:
Time and Action (TNA) calendar is one of the most important tools for managing a
project. In garment manufacturing each order is not less than a project to a merchant
because from order receiving to completion of an order it involves a number of tasks of
various timelines and utilization of various resources. Like number of processes, lot of
people are also involved to accomplish an order. Similarly each order is unique in terms
of process and time demand. So, a detailed plan with well-defined responsibility is must
in order to complete each order to get completed on time.A time and action calendar
defines the ideal date/time period within which the major activities of an order should
occur against a scheduled delivery window.
Time and Action Calendar or TNA, a popular tool used in apparel manufacturing industry
is a technique for tracking and following up of important milestones in preproduction
processes to ensure timely delivery within stipulated delivery date. Garment pre-
production and merchandising functions are characterized by people in an organization
doing multiple activities. While some of the activities are dependent and follow each
other, a few others are independent. Every garment company takes enormous care during
the planning of an order. Every little detail is interwoven into the planning system.
Making a TNA Calendar is not just entering activity names and duration in tabular forms;
it is also about scientifically working-out the activity duration, logically determining the
preceding and succeeding activities. Time and action calendar consist of the short term
and long term plans so carefully laid out.
A time and action calendar is a most effective communication tool that proves it to be
useful to this task. The chart consists of time frames listed for every action planned
(major ones) and these actions need to be earned out on time. The purpose of TNA is to
cross check at frequent intervals, say, once a week, whether the planning is being
executed satisfactorily. The more frequent the checks, the easier it is to correct deviations.
TNA is especially useful when a buyer wants to know the status of execution of an order.
Structure of TNA
Normally merchandisers prepare a plan of the order in a spreadsheet by listing down the
key processes in first column and planned date of action for each process in the next
column. This planning sheet is popularly known as time and action calendar (TNA). Once
TNA calendar is made, then it can be easy for merchandiser list down their daily ‘to do
list’ and taking it one by one. As per TNA schedule processes can be executed on timely
basis to track whether an order is on track or it will get delayed.
– Process flow of an order with the list of task which need to be performed
– For sewing – batch wise and product wise capacity (production per day per batch)
– Lead time of activities, e.g. raw material lead time, sampling lead time, etc.
Normally TNA does not depend on fabric used in merchandise like woven or knits. TNA
is largely depends on the particular process flow of an order, machine requirement and
available production capacity. In TNA planned cutting date (PCD) and ex-factory date
these are the two most critical dates.
1. Sampling:
Sampling is the most crucial task and hence need to plan in TNA very carefully, some
sampling stages are very important so any deviation or delay in that will affect the whole
TNA.
Proto sample: The submission of proto sample totally depends upon buyers enquiry
date. Any delay in proto submission or approval will affect order conformation date,
which will subsequently affect the submission of fabric development and fit sample, as
without proto approval it’s impossible to proceed further. In sample TNA it is shown that
the planned proto submission date is 09-06-2012 and planned approval date is 27-06-
2012, i.e. 15 working days are kept for proto sample approval.
Fit sample: After approval of proto sample manufacturer starts working on fit sample,
that needs to submit exactly at planned date. Any delay in fit sample submission will
cause the delay in P.O., size set sample submission. Fit sample must submit within 45
days of proto approval as to get the sample of bulk fabric it takes 20-25 working days to
get in-house; hence after approval of proto sample i.e. on 27-06-2012, the planned fit
sample submission date is 27-07-2012. Sometimes fabric suppliers are nominated by
buyer or buyer will supply the fabric in either case it may not take more time. Hence, in
time and action calendar approximate 1 month gap is shown between proto sample
approval and fit sample submission. Buyer must give the comments on fit sample within
7 days. Any delay from buyer side will directly affect the further process. To make fit
sample process to complete within time period, the planned approval date for fit is 22-08-
2012 i.e. 21 days or 3 weeks is kept deliberately between first fit submission and
approval, in order to accommodate failures and re submissions of fit sample.
AD/Photo shoot/Salesman sample: These samples are generally submitted parallel with
fit sample. The same period is allotted to salesman sample i.e. 21 working days in TNA.
These samples mainly used for advertising or for visual merchandising or by sales man to
collect the order from retailers; hence from buyer’s perspective, timely submission of
these samples is very important. Order size mainly depends on this sample and any delay
or quality issue in sample can reduce the order size. Sometimes buyer may ask more
number of samples e.g. 100 pieces, in that case merchandiser must keep in mind the
capacity of sampling room, time required to complete the demand of buyer, style
complexity and buyers submission date while making the TNA.
Size-set sample: This stage of sampling is most important, without size set approval bulk
fabric for production should not be cut in order to accommodate any changes by the
buyer in the bulk production. So, any delay in size set sample will directly affect PCD
and subsequently affect the shipment date. Size set sample need to submit with actual
bulk fabric, hence for timely submission of size set sample merchandiser should make
sure that all bulk fabric should be in-house well in advance of size set submission date.
To avoid the delay, as soon as bulk trims and fabrics are get in-house within 3 days size-
set sample can be produced and submitted to buyer for approval. As per TNA, in table no.
2, planned submission date of the size-set sample is on 08-10-2012 and expected
approval is on 25-10-2012 i.e.15 working days are kept for completion of size set sample
approval process.
Pilot-run: Before going for actual production pilot run is carried out, in order to see the
complications in actual production and to give the sufficient time for learning curve of
operator on sewing floor. In TNA preparation one day is kept for pilot run for smoother
and uninterrupted production. As soon as first few lots are cut, make sure that they will
immediately send for embroidery. Hence cut panels are available on time for pilot run. In
sample TNA PCD is on 31-10-2012 while pilot run is planned on 03-11-2012, i.e. one
day gap is kept for embroidery of cut panels for pilot run. Pilot run can be conducted
before or after PP Meeting.
PP sample need to submit within 10 days after approval of size-set and GPT samples. As
without approval of PP sample production should not start.To maintain the PCD
merchandiser should be very careful while preparation of TNA for PP sample. PP sample
is normally pooled out from pilot-run, hence submission date for PP sample is 03-11-
2012 and approval date is 12-11-2012 i.e. 6 working days gap is kept for PP sample.
Top of production sample: As soon as production starts and first few pieces are come
out of line TOP sample need to submit to buyer. It’s very crucial stage where
merchandiser must keep in mind that by any reason TOP sample get rejected then
production end date is going to be delayed. This can straight way affects the shipment
date. In sample TNA, it is shown that sample is submitted on 17-11-2012 and planned
approval date is 21-11-2-12.
2. Fabric and trim sourcing:
Fabric and trim sourcing is very time consuming process which includes desk loom and
lab-dip approvals, trim and art work approval, FPT approval. The fabric sourcing itself
will take lead time of 30-60 days depending upon type of fabric. For yarn dyed fabric it
takes approx. 45 day, for piece dyed fabric it take approx. 30 days and for fibre dyed
fabric it takes approx. 55-60 days. In sample TNA, it is assumed that fabric used is solid
dyed hence 30 days lead time is considered while preparing the TNA, trims also takes the
approximate 30-45 days depending upon from where trims are getting sourced. Hence
while designing the TNA for sourcing the following activities need to keep in mind.
Fabric approvals: With approval of proto sample, merchandiser needs to submit lab-dip
for colour conformation. Lab-dip approval itself is a long process, as development of
shade and submission itself will take 10-15 working days for one attempt, hence for after
15 days of proto approval Lab dip is submitted. Hence while preparing the TNA
merchandiser must keep in mind that, complexity of shade, buyer’s specification etc. any
delay in lab-dip submission will end up with fabric production delay, which will results in
delay in; Size-set sample submission. Hence to avoid the delay in TNA 30 working days
buffer is kept from submission date i.e. 14-07-2012 to planned approval date i.e.20-08-
2012.
Trims and art work: Trims and their art work are other important factors of sourcing
department after fabric. Timely approval of trims is very necessary. Trim production and
shipment is also time consuming process, especially if it is imported, hence while
preparing the TNA 25 working days buffer is kept between submission date i.e.14-07-
2012and approval date13-08-2012.
Fabric Performance Test (FPT): Before fit sample submission date FPT report must be
approved by buyer, as fit sample submitted in similar fabric. As without approval of FPT
fabric supplier can’t ship the fabric to garment manufacturer. Any delay in FPT
submission in will cause in fit sample submission and may show impact on fabric in-
house date which will subsequently affect the size-set submission date.
3. Production
The most crucial part of any TNA is actual production. While preparing the TNA for
production following activities need to consider.
Planned Cut Date: The most important date for both sourcing and merchandising
department. Most of the time, TNA is prepared by keeping PCD in mind. To achieve the
PCD on time sourcing department plays important role, as lead time of trims and fabric
production and availability for garment production is controlled by this department.
While preparing the TNA expected lead time and sufficient buffer should keep for
sourcing.
As there is embroidery included on cut panels, hence after cutting the cut panels need to
send for embroidery. Considering that embroidery is in-house then 6 working days after
PCD to complete the embroidery need to be consider in TNA. If embroidery is
outsourced then accordingly more number of days can be included in TNA.
In some merchandise, washing, printing is required hence merchandiser need to take care
of the lead time requirement for the same including necessary buffer.
Productions start and end date: These two dates are purely depends upon shipment
date and production capacity. As soon as PCD is achieved the production should start
immediately after pilot run and approval of PP Sample. Any deviation in this date will
subsequently affect the TOP sample submission date and shipment date. Number of days
required for production is decided by capacity allocated to that particular merchandise or
number of days of available for actual shipment. For mentioned sample TNA, following
assumptions were made while calculating the number of days required completing the
production.
Assumptions:
No. of pieces= 10000
SAM of garment= 28.5 min
No. of M/c= 50
Efficiency = 45%
The calculation for production days can be shown as:
So, if 25 working days needs for production, then production will start on 15-11-2012
and it will end on 15-12-2012, if only one sewing line of 50 machines is allocated for
10000 pieces.
Finishing and packing: As finishing and packing is equally important, hence as soon as
first lot comes out of production, finishing and packing get started. This can be started
parallel along with production. In sample TNA, 17-11-2012 is a starting date of finishing
and packing, while 18-12-2012 is end date. 3 days buffer is kept deliberately between
production date and finishing packing completion date to avoid any consequences.
Apart from these main activities, following constraints merchandiser should keep in mind
while preparing the TNA for production.
Any delay in production will directly leads to shipment delay hence for actual production
proper buffer should be allocated in TNA.
Even though most of the users are aware of the term ‘critical path method’ (CPM), CPM
may be elaborated as ‘critical’ means ‘possibility of non-conformance is higher’ as per
previous experience; some even link ‘critical’ with cost involving that activity.
Everybody select ‘critical’ activities hypothetically based on intuition or previous
experience or buyer’s milestones and no one actually makes PERT network of activities
and then arrive at CPM.
It was found that in majority of the cases the buyer specifies target dates of key activities
and based on those target dates the manufacturing organization creates their own TNA
adding buffer days (to ensure that buyer target dates are not missed). It was also a
common practice to have two TNA: one with few main important activities (also called
milestone activities) that are suggested by the buyer, and another one with more number
of in-between micro activities (in-house activities) to exercise control over macro
activities PERT network or Gantt chart should be mandatory prepared to decide upon
which all activities should be there in TNA calendar. Merchandiser must prepare either
and the resultant critical path should be the activity chain for TNA calendar, all activities
falling in critical path are critical activities. Critical activities should always be on focus,
a single minute delay in any of the critical activities may lead to final shipment delay.
Conclusion:
TNA is most important activity for timely shipment. If any merchandiser is able to follow
the TNA properly then it will be not a big challenge to ship the garments on schedule.
TNA for any production unit is summery of sampling, sourcing and production activities
and their sub activities. Merchandiser generally makes the TNA on the basis of lead time
mentioned by buyer, shipment date negotiation, order quantity, production capacity. The
milestones and key/critical activities dates are mentioned by buyer while other in-house
activities need to manage by merchandiser by keeping many things in mind. With the
help of TNA merchandisers can ensures satisfaction of each and every step with constant
follow ups and in shortest cycle time possible. Rapidly changing trends of the fashion
industry is making merchandising activities more complicated and so TNA. Merchandiser
has to prepare good and flexible TNA by keeping all facts and facets in mind. If used
effectively, a good TNA can help factory to meet production and shipment deadlines,
increase inventory turns, improve customer service, and enhance profits.