DEVELOPMENTS OF CUTTING & SEWING

TECHNOLOGIES IN GARMENT INDUSTRY

By,
Mr. Prashant G. Khandalkar
Final Year Textile technology

D. K. T. E. TEXTILE AND ENGINEERING INSTITUTE

ICHALKARANJI.

1. INTRODUCTION TO THE GARMENT INDUTRY:

India’s textiles and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the
national Economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of
India’s exports worldwide. Part of the growth is due to the growing
development of the country, where more citizens have access to the
internet each day; and not to mention the growth of population in
India.
As the growth in population and in ecommerce preference is so rapid,
there is a high demand for apparel online, which keeps the retailers
stocking the shelves and offering new styles on a more than regular
basis, also prompting more sales.
By the end of 2013, the country’s top ecommerce retailers are
expecting for their sales to double. A study conducted by experts
revealed that in India; a piece of clothing is purchased approximately
every 40 seconds. There is just a high demand for clothing on the
ecommerce market right now, and many e-shops are springing up as a
result.
According to Deepa Thomas, an eBay specialist of India’s eBay
commerce, 41% of sales are taken by the lifestyle category, while
clothing ranked above it. It is evident that this industry is currently
very lucrative, and that entrepreneurs would be smart to take
advantage of the growth in India. With retailers expecting their sales

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to double by the end of 2013, if all processes remain the same, there is
not telling how much the increase will be by the end of 2014.

1.1 Milestones

 Exports of textiles and clothing products from India have

increased steadily over the last few years, particularly after 2004
when textiles exports quota stood discontinued.

 India’s Textiles & Clothing (T&C) exports registered a robust

growth of 25% in 2005-06, recording a growth of US$ 3.5
billion over 2004-05 in value terms thereby reaching a level of
US$ 17.52 billion and the growth continued in 2006-07 with
T&C exports of US$19.15 billion recording a increase of 9.28%
over the previous year and reached USD 22.15 billion in 2007-
08 denoting an increase of 15.7% but declined by over 5% in
2008-09. Exports of Textiles & Clothing grew from USD 21.22
billion in 2008-09 to USD 22.41 billion in 2009-10 and have
touched USD 27.47 billion in 2010-11. In the financial year
2011-12, exports of textiles and clothing, has grown by 20.05%
over the financial year 2010-11 to touch USD 33.31 billion.

 During the year 2012-13, Readymade Garments account for

almost 39% of the total textiles exports. Apparel and cotton
textiles products together contribute nearly 74% of the total
textiles exports.

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1.2 PREPARATION OF GARMENT IN INDUSTRY
This is a process of converting raw materials into finished products.
It will be difficult to maintain the industry if production is not, up to
the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not
properly carried out.

Steps involved in preparation of garment in Industry;

LAYING

MARKING

CUTTING

STITCHING

CHECKING

FUSING

PRESSING

Description of above process is as follows;

Laying: Lying of paper pattern helps one to plan the placement of the
pattern pieces in a tentative manner. It is very economical in laying
the pattern and cutting. Even a small amount of material saved in a
single lay will help to bring about a large saving of money as
hundreds of layers of fabric will be laid and cut simultaneously.
Marking: This can be done manually or with computerised
technique. The marker planner uses full size patterns and arranges
them in an economical manner on marker paper. This is a specially
printed paper having symbols on it which enable the marker planner

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to visually control the positioning of components according to
specified grain lines.
Computerized Marker Making has been around for over thirty years.
The method requires an experienced marker maker to place the
patterns correctly in the marker. The marker maker works at a
computer monitor rather than with full sets of hard paper patterns, and
the entire pattern.
Cutting: This is the major operation of the cutting room when they
spread and cut into garments. Of all the operations in the cutting room
this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very
little can be done to rectify serious defects.
Stitching: It is done after the cut pieces are bundled according to size,
colour and quantities determined by the sewing room. The central
process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of
components. Stitching is done as per the specification given by the
buyer.
Checking: It is realistic to assume that however well checking or
quality control procedures operate within a factory there will always
be a certain percentage of garments rejected for some reason or other.
Fusing and Pressing: Finishing and pressing are two processes which
have the greatest influence on the finished look of a garment. Fusing
creates the foundation and pressing puts the final seal of quality on
the garment.

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 2. METHOD’S AND FURTHAR DEVELOPMENT’S IN
CUTTING TECHNOLOGY:
Hand shears can be used to cut from single or double ply up to a
maximum of 10 plies. The lower blade of the shears passes under the
plies but the subsequent distortion of fabric is only temporary and
accuracy can be achieved with practice. Left-handed shears are also
available for left-handed persons. The disadvantage of this method
lies in the time it consumes and the consequent high labour cost but it
is appropriate for made-to-measure garments.
Types of Hand Shears are as follows;
Bent-Handle Shears: They are 8 to 10 inches long. They are used for
cutting all types of fabrics. Shears differ from scissors in that they
have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for
the second, third and fourth fingers.

Fig. 2a Bent handle shear

Scissors: They are 5 to 6 inches long. They are used for light cutting,
Trimming, clipping corners, and cutting curves. These have round
handles for both the blades. They are designed for snipping threads
and trimming seams. They should be held so that the wider blade is
above the narrower blade.

Fig. 2b Scissor

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Pinking Shears: They are 9 to 10 inches long. They produce a notched
cutting line (zigzag) which gives a neat appearance to the inside of
garments.

Fig. 2c Pinking shear

Button Hole Scissors: These can be adjusted so as to cut button holes
in any size required. They are useful if one needs to make many
button holes.

Fig. 2d Buttonhole scissor

Electric Scissor these are used in most sample rooms. They are ideal
for cutting silk, nylon, and soft, hard-to-cut fabric.

Fig. 2e Electric scissor

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2.1 Further Development's in cutting Technology:
As the year passes there are different types of cutting methods were
developed which helps to enhance the quality of the product as well
as time requires for cutting process is reduced.
Modern Developments in Cutting machines are as follows;
2.2 Straight Knife cutting machine
The line of straight knife machines cut denim
or silk, cotton or knits, sailcloth or synthetics,
fibreglass and technical textiles, easily and
without effort. Most cutting rooms which have
sufficient garments in bulk but not such as to
justify the use of computer-controlled cutters
will have straight knives. The straight knife
consists of a base plate, on which four rollers
are fitted which can glide easily on the glazed
paper fixed on the base of the cutting table
below the bottom ply. They require operator
power as well as machine power to cut the lay.
The operator can move the machine with the
help of the handle provided below the motor
while the motor gives reciprocating action to
the blade and drives the knife through the lay.
A low profile, polished, streamlined base plate
is designed to reduce friction and distortion in
the lay regardless of the number of plies. They are designed to
provide optimal performance whether cutting intricate jobs with small
radius cuts or patterns that have long, clean cuts. Some exclusive
Micro Fog machines ensure maximum heat reduction for cutting
highly fusible materials. The Micro Fog device sends a mist of
coolant / lubricant behind the knife and out through a specially slotted
knife-slide to penetrate every layer or material and to eliminate the
conditions that cause fusing. The Micro Fog straight knife requires
90-120 psi (6.2-8.3 bars) compressed air.

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Technical features of straight knife cutting machine:
 It is having a special gravity feed moistening attachment to
eliminate fusing.
 A Coolant flow exactly metered to achieve the desired degree of
lubrication and cooling required.
 The blades of the straight knife are made of carbon steel, coated
with Teflon, have wavy edges, rounded or angled tip. The blade
height varies from 4 inches to 13 inches. Their stroke varies
from 1 inch to 1 ½ inch. There is a sharpening mechanism for
blades which uses either an emery belt or emery stone for
sharpening.
 Straight Knife cutting machines weight is in the range of 12-18
kg’s.
 The power requires for the machine varies from model to model
from 0.55 hp to 1.25 hp.

2.3 Round Knife Cutting Machine

These types of cutting machine is ideally suited for cutting large
radius curves, straight lines and are applicable for a wide range of
difficult to cut materials. The smallest model provides lightweight
manoeuvrability with power to cut low lays of wool, cotton, silk,
synthetics, and technical textiles.
The elements of round knife are same as
straight knife, the only difference in
blade which is octagonal or circular.
The Heavy Duty machine offers a heavy
duty motor to provide increased torque
and blade speed making it ideal for
most general purpose cutting of canvas,
burlap, cotton, cotton batting, woollens,
and knits.

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The Heavy Duty and Super Duty round knife machines can easily cut
through high duro meter rubber as well as plastic sheeting and dense
fabrics that require a more powerful motor and greater height
capacity. Each of these special Cardinal round knife machines may be
supplied with a high speed, low speed, or dual speed motor for the
broadest range of applications. Both models may be fitted with an
optional Plastic Master lubricator.
Technical Features of Round Knife Cutting Machine
 Blade which is octagonal or circular here which have a diameter
between 2 to 8 inches. Round Knife Cutting machines have
Vertical Cutting Stroke Velocity (VCSV).
 The blades of the round knife are made of carbon steel, Teflon
coated, slotted and grooved.
 The speed of the motor varies from 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm.
 Power of machines is between 0.20 hp to 1.25 hp.
 Their weight varies from 7 kg’s. To 16 kg’s.
 The blade size and the respective cutting capacity can be
understood with the help of the following table:
Blade Size Cutting Capacity
4 inch 2.125 inch
5.25 inch 3.125 inch
6 inch 3.25 inch

2.4 Band Knife cutting Machine

A band knife machine comprises a series of three or more pulleys,
powered by an electric motor, with a continuously rotating steel blade
mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened. The blade of
the band knife passes through a slot in the table in a fixed position and
the section of the lay to be cut is moved past it. The material is moved
onto the blade instead of the blade moved onto the material.
Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required. Space must be left around garment parts when planning the
marker so that they can be sectioned out using a straight knife and

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then cut exactly using the band knife. When small parts such as cuffs,
collars and pockets are to be cut, a template of metal or fibre in the
shape of the pattern piece may be clamped to the section of lay on top
of the marker which is then drawn past the band knife, cutting exactly
along the hard edge. A band knife workplace may be so arranged that
the operator either pushes or pulls the section of lay towards the knife.
The latter is most common in Britain.
The band knife runs absolutely vibration free and delivers very good
cutting quality. Adjustable band-knife speed by frequency control
allows optimal adaption of the band knife speed to the materials and
ply height being cut, while operating at a very low noise level.
The band knife has an air-floatation table which has small rollers
placed onto it which give ease of movement to the material being cut
and also suck the material slightly with high pressure to achieve
minimum distortion while cutting.
The quality and quantity of cutting with a band-knife machine
depends directly upon the operator stress level.
The SUPER SILENT 1250 S band-knife machine provides optimal
and ergonomic working conditions for operators and thus allows
maximum production output.

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Technical Features of Band Knife cutting Machine
 Automatically set band knife guard.
 Warning light indicates band knife running.
 All panels are safety switch protected.
 Dove-tail guided band knife sharpening unit.
 Band knife blade made of high grade steel.
 Adjustable speed from 400 to 2000 rpm, allows cutting all types
of fabrics.
 Knife wheels diameter 39 cm, 3 cm wide.

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2.5 Rotary Shears or Small Round Knife
They are same as round knife machines but the lightweight rotary
shears are the best solution for cutting intricate markers, one-of-a-
kind patterns, samples, reworks, and plastic or rubber sheeting.
Offering the ultimate in manoeuvrability, rotary shears are the answer
for short run cutting jobs common in the industry.
Small round knife machines set the standard for the cutting industry
by providing agility, power, and versatility. Each small round knife
has a low profile base plate which allows for virtually no distortion
when cutting through low lays, or single thickness, of material.
Technical Features of Small Round Knife
 2 ¼” (5.72 cm) round blade for general use or hexagon blade for
sheer or difficult to cut cloth.
 Cutting capacity is 25% greater than competitive models.
 Built-in sharpener.
 Ergonomically designed.
 Three different base plates and cutting tips can be selected
 Stabilizer Shoe: the “standard” foot attachment, a utility feature
that lends itself well to all cutting and slitting operations.

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2.6 End Cutters
End cutters are used to cut the end of every lay spread on the table for
starting a new end of the fabric. They provide fast and perfectly
straight end cutting as a requirement of marker planning.

Technical Features of End Cutter

 Perma-Field Motor for more cutting torque with less heat build-
up.
 Precision engineered profile and interior reinforcing ribs keeps
track rigid even at lengths over 72”.
 Clamping bracket allows the machine to be attached to any type
of cutting table in seconds.
 Standard 40” (1.02m) length handles for use on tables up to 72”
(1.83m) wide, with longer handles available.
 Other handle options include a push handle, a dual push/pull
handle for extremely wide cuts requiring more than one
operator, and a swivel handle for limited space applications.
 Patented Uni-Safe Terminal Block and Attachment Plug allow
the operator to engage the power supply to the cutter with one
hand.

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 3. HISORY OF SEWING MACHINE:
 In olden days when sewing machines were not there Sewing
were carried out by stitching together animal hides for clothing
and for shelter, for example, they used sinew from caribou for
thread and needles made of bones.

 The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the

sewing machine, which turned a handicraft into an industry. The
sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible.
In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden
chain-stitch sewing machine, but all existing models were
destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs.

 Walter Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832

but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who is usually credited
with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All
of Howe’s machines were run by hand.

 In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household

word because of his mass production of the sewing machine. He
developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the hands
free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines.
Singer spent $1 million a year on sales promotion and, by 1867,
was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically
powered models were not available until 1921). To save time
and to keep control over production, Entrepreneurs brought
workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many
people in search of work to move to the cities where the
factories were located.
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  In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in
California in search of gold, a 20- year old Bavarian immigrant
by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San
Francisco.

 In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with

riveted pockets, using a tough cotton fabric called serge de
Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim.

 They are an item another early use for sewing machines was to
make Civil War uniforms. The Union army recorded the chest
and height measurements of more than a million soldiers to
come up with the first standardization of sizes. After the war,
sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass
production of everyday men’s wear.

 The first electric machines were developed by Singer Sewing

Co. and introduced in 1889.

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3.1 Parts of sewing machine

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 4. MODERN DEVELOPMENT’S IN SEWING MACHINE:
When the automatic sewing machine was developed all the stitching
activities were carried out on single machine which were a bit
problematic thing for mass production in industries. This problem is
solved by using same principle of stitching just additional
advancements carried out in that machine and use for sewing different
parts of single garment.
Some of Modern sewing machines are as follows;

4.1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

It is used for attaching pocket, front and back joining, side seam etc.
different tension and pressure can be given.

Model DDL 5530 N

M/C JUKI
Manufacturer
Bed Type Flat Bed
Belt Type V-Belt
Feed Drop Feed
Mechanism
Voltage 220 Volts
Dimensions of 18.625inch*
Bed 6.75inch
Power 250W
Motor RPM 5000-8000

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4.2 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
When two stitches are required parallel simultaneously then DNLS
machine is used like bottom hemming, yoke preparation, cuff sleeve
joining etc.

Model LH3168
M/C JUKI
Manufacturer
Bed Type Flat Bed
Belt Type V-Belt
Feed Drop Feed
Mechanism
Voltage 220 Volts
Dimensions of 20inch* 7inch
Bed
Power 250W
Motor RPM 5000-8000

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4.3 Over Lock machine
It is used for locking the edges to avoid fraises at the edges. It also
provides strength. It is used for over locking parts like inside seam,
sleeve body attachment etc.

Model M 06704S
M/C Pegasus
Manufacturer
Bed Type Raised Bed
Belt Type V-Belt
Feed Drop Feed
Mechanism
Voltage 220 Volts
Dimensions of 8.5 inch* 4.75
Bed inch
Power 250W
Motor RPM 5000-8000

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4.4 Feed of the Arm Machine
It is used to join both edges of the sleeve with each other attaching
with the side seam.

Model FS 613
M/C Pegasus
Manufacturer OSAKA APAN
Bed Type Cylinder Bed
Belt Type V-Belt
Feed Drop Feed
Mechanism
Voltage 220 Volts
Dimensions of 7 inch* 9 inch
Bed
Power 250W
Motor Clutch

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 5. CONCLUTION:

 The initial effects of developments on Sewing & Cutting

machines on workers were both positive and negative, however
in the long run the negative effects decreased.

 Developments in these technology reduces the time for making

a shirt from an hour to just 15mins. This reduces the labor cost.

 The movement to large-scale factories also resulted in a

decrease the amount of time clothing production took, which
causes the price for clothing to drop significantly. This is
because manufacturers were able to decrease the number of
workers needed to produce the same amount of clothing,
resulting in reduction in cost.

6. REFRENCES:
Books:
Garment Making By I. Rajitha,
The Fashion Manufacturing Process By Kahn, Cohen and Soto,
Garment Construction By Mrs P. M. Geetha,
Sewing Machine Operations Mannual
Web Pages:
Fibre to Fashion.com
www.wikipedia.com

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