Textile Industry in India Overview

1.
TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA
Industries have a major role to play in the economic development of underdeveloped

countries. Textile industry is the one of the oldest industries existing till date. Although,
initially this industry catered to the needs to cover the Human Beings, but its importance and
significance groomed in Egyptian Civilization.
For the most of recorded history, mankind has relied on natural fabrics, particularly cotton,
linen, wool and silk for textile products. In addition, the technology of fabric manufacture was
relatively simple.
In India also, the textile industry revolved around these natural fibers spun and woven on
handlooms. The production was mainly to cater to the parts. Gradually, India mastered in the
textile industry and its textile products gained famed worldwide. It was only after industrial
revolution in England, when machine substituted man and production started on large basis.
However, the demand could not grow up in the same proportion and India suffered due to
unbalance between demand and supply, thus ultimately resulting in lower prices. However
with the advent of industrial revolution, the textile industry in India begins to rise due to open
government policies and import of technical know-how and machinery.
During the past few decades, the textile industry has gone through a period of unprecedented
changes. The production of manmade fibers and their use in industry has surpassed that of
natural fibers. The twentieth century customer has choice among linen, wool, rayon, silk,
nylon, acrylic, polyester, etc. And also wide range of different blended fibers.
Today, the textile industry applies scientific parameters to optimize production so as to

develop textile products to meet specific consumer needs and demands.
1
Nahar Industrial Entp. Ltd.,Fabric Unit-2, Lalru.(Punjab.)
Changing fashions and desire for better quality have boosted the textile industry in recent
years. With increasing population, demand for fabric is rapidly increasing and new units are
being established while the existing ones are going for mass expansion and modernization.
2
2. INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP
NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949 with Oswal Woolen Mills, Ludhiana, surges a head in
establish itself as a repudiated industrial conglomerate with a wide range from spinning,
knitting, fabrics, hosiery, garments, soaps, vegetable oils and sugar.
2.1 NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES INCLUDES:

.
.
Oswal Woolen Mills Limited.
Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.
Nahar Export Limited.
Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited
Nahar International Limited
Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited
3
2.2 OSWAL WOLLEN MILLS LIMITED, (OWM)
OSWAL WOOLEN MILLS LTD is the Flagship Company of over US$500 millions NAHAR
GROUP OF COMPANIES
Oswal Woolen Mills NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949 surges ahead to establish it self
as a reputed industrial conglomerate with a wide ranging portfolio from Spinning, Knitting,
Fabric, Hosiery Garments Etc.
The group has spinning capacity of 0.4 millions cotton spindles 25000 worsted spindles with
turn over of $500 million inclusive of export turnover of $150 million. Out of total
production, 60% of the production is dedicated to exports and the rest 40% for domestic
market. The production facility has been awarded ISO 9001:2000.
By spinning knitting yarns perfectly in keeping with global trends towards easy care, warmth
& lively feels, OWM is leading the way in hosiery manufacturing, offering worsted dyed
yarns, acro-wool, blended yarns, fancy yarns & wool polyamide combinations for velvety
looks.
Today OWM is the flagship company of the glorious Oswal Empire and a proud owner of
widely loved Super Brands in Knitwear, Monte Carlo and Canterbury. The company boasts of
a product range that is truly large and varied. They include diverse types of Woolen, Acrylic
and Synthetic Blended Yarns, Lambs Wool Yarn, Woolens Viscose & Acrylic Tops, Textile
Fabric, Woolens Knitwear, Hosiery & Cotton Garments.
The markets of NAHAR GROUP are cris crossed allover the globe with major clientele in
Australia, New Zealand, Europe, Middle East, Africa, Russia and Asia. The objective is
meeting the buyer’s expectations with consistent quality backed by R & D divisions equipped
with latest equipment, Cream of highly qualified technocrats and adhering to timely schedules
4
2.3 NAHAR SPINNING MILLS LIMITED
NSM has installed capacity of 93408 spindles with total production of 13077 Metric ton of
Cotton / Synthetic blended Yarn. The performance of the spinning division has shown upward
trend vis-à-vis production and sale of Cotton Yarn and Synthetic Yarn.
The Company has 93408 spindles for the manufacture of Cotton / Synthetic & Blended Yarns.
The company has also put up a Mercerizing cum Dyeing plant at village Lalru, Patiala for the
manufacture of High Value Added Yarn, for the quality conscious market of U.S. & European
Union. The capacity of the plant is 2040 M.T.
The Garment Division contributed Rs. 133.73 crores towards the revenue of the company as
against Rs 200.95 crores in the previous year. The lower allocation of quotas for the second
half of the financial year adversely affected the performance of the segment. The stiff global
competition coupled with demand shrinkage from overseas buyers also adversely affected the
Exports as well as operating margins, resulting lower profits before tax at Rs. 4.38 crores as
against Rs. 12.67 crores in the previous year.
Expansion Plans: Keeping in view the emerging opportunities arising out of the quota free
global trade w.e.f. 1st January 2005, the Management has decided to invest Rs. 112.45 crores
in the capacity expansion. The company shall be putting up an Ultra Modern Spinning and
Knitting cum Dyeing Plant with a capacity of 25000 spindles at village Lalru, Patiala. The
expansion shall be financed by way of term loan of Rs. 80 crores from the Financial
Institutions under Tuff scheme and balance form the internal accounts of the company. The
management is quite optimistic that enhanced capacity will enable the company to improve its
financial performance in the coming years.
5
Works:
Industrial Area –‘A’, Ludhiana, (Punjab)

Dhandari Kalan, G.T.Road, Ludhiana (Punjab)
Village Simrai, Mandideep, Distt. Raisen (M.P.)
Village Lalru, Distt. Patiala (Punjab)
Village Jalalpur, Distt. Patiala (Punjab)
6
2.4 NAHAR EXPORTS LTD.
“Back to the Future” could be the title of NAHAR EXPORTS success story a dazzling
satellite of NAHAR constellation. Starting out in 1988 as a manufactures and exporters of
cotton hosiery garments the company soon realized that to strategically move backwards.
This, it did through focused backward integration by setting up its own spinning unit with an
ambitious installed capacity of 25000 spindles aiming to provide premium value added and
special yarns to the market. It was a conscious decision aiming to reap the benefits of the
profitable merger. A proactive move strongly indicates the company’s determination and
confidence to race ahead of competition by superior utilization of both man and machines. A
masterstroke towards optimizing administrative functional and legal hassles in one final
swoop.
As an ISO 9002 company, NAHAR EXPORTS has two plants with a spindle age capacity of
1,45,000 spindles manufacturing a wide range of premium special and value added yarns
manned by a dedicated workforce of 5000 exporting to enthusiast customers in competitive
export market of Europe, Hong Kong, Singapore, Mauritius, South Eastern Asian Countries.
NAHAR EXPORTS today is a major player in its chosen area blazing new trails and spinning
new horizons in its on going pursuit of ever greater excellence.
7
2.5 NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED
Established in 1983 under the name of OSWAL FATS & OIL LTD. it underwent a total
change over to become Nahar Industrial Enterprises a decade letter in 1994
The company has to divisions under its umbrella namely, Oil & Soap Division and the textile
division
The oil and soap division has two units. The fatty Acid unit is engaged in the manufacture of
Fatty Acids Stearic Acid and Distilled Glycerin. The soap unit is engaged in the production of
Toilet & Laundry Soap
In the textile division the company has two Spinning units and a weaving unit. The frost
spinning unit, a100% EOU, is Engaged in the manufacture of cotton yarn is exporting its yarn
to Europe, Hong Kong, Singapore Taiwan, Mauritius, Malaysia and Australia
The second unit, namely Sambhav Spinning Mills, is engaged in the manufacture of cotton
yarn. The aggregate installed spindle in both the units is 38000 spindles. Nahar fabric the
weaving unit is equipped with 176 Picanol Air Jet Weaving Machines (Cam/Repair/Dobby)
A weaving design studio backs the facilities where the time-tested handloom is used for
product development activity in consonance with market needs
The preparatory is equipped with Benninger’s Warping & Sizing Machines. Inspection is
equipped with automatic inspection with rolling machine from la Maccanica, Italy. Nahar
fabrics has already produced more then 200 different constructions in Grey Fabric for in
House needs and World Markets
Oswal Cotton Mills, established in 2000, has been clubbed with Nahar Fabrics and now, it is
one of the most modern weaving and processing plant of India. There are two process house
shortly named as P-1 & P-2.
8
2.6 NAHAR SUGAR and ALLIED INDUSTRIES LIMITED
Established in 1993 Nahar Spinning mills Ltd. associate companies in the assisted sector with
PSIDC promoted Nahar Sugar
Nahar Sugar represents the Groups concerted thrust towards exploring new need based area in
tune with the larger context of customer needs & market demands
The company has a modern sugar mill powered with the latest state-of-the-art equipment at
district Fategarh Sahib, Punjab for producing all types & grades of sugar and allied products.
The installed capacity of mill is 2500 TCDs
An active program of cane development to ensure regular cane supply to the plant is on. Also
the power co-generated at the plant is being constructively used for capitative consumption to
reduce the raw material cost.
9
2.7 MANAGEMENT OF NAHAR GROUP
S. No. Name Post

1. Mr. Jawahar Oswal Chairman
2. Mr. Kamal Oswal M.D.
3. Mr. S.S. Basu President
4. Mr. Dhawan Sharma H.O.D. (Tech. & Q.A.)
5. Mr. Anil Tyagi H.O.D.(Finishing)
6. Mr. Arnav Gosh HOD (Dyeing)
7. Mr. Amit Walia H.O.D.(Bleaching)
8. Mr. Ravindra Rohila H.O.D.(PA & HR)
9. Mr. Sanjeev Gulati H.O.D.(Accounts)
10. Mr. Sachin Jain Purchase Dept.
11. Mr. Vishnupal Bhatnagar. Folding Dept.
12. Mr. Gurpreet Singh P.P.C.
13. Mr. Naresh Chand Security Officer
3.
10
11
3.1 PLANT LAYOUT
12
PLANT LOCATION
1. Security office
2. Personal & Adm.
3. Manav vikas Kendra
4. Visitors waiting room
5. Accounts department
6. Workshop
7. Yarn dyeing plant
8. Boiler
9. Kitchen
10. Chemical lab
11. Physical lab
12. Finishing department
13. Folding and packing department
14. Grey checking
15. Store I
16. Bleaching department
17. Caustic recovery plant
18. Grey godown
19. Store II
20. Power plant
21. Pad dryer m/c
22. Pad steam m/c
23. Stenter m/c
24. Sanforisation m/c
25. Desize cum singe m/c
26. Scouring & bleaching continuous m/c
27. Mercerization m/c
28. Pitching m/c
13
3.2 ENTIRE PROCESS FLOW
The Customer and the Marketing department communicate with each other. The
Marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then
communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance (Q A) and Product Planning
and Control (PPC) who decides on the various guidelines and the time required to
execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the Plant Head who
communicates them to the various Departments according to the guidelines and
instructions. The fabric is then sent to the Fabric Inspection and then to the Central
Quality Assurance, who sent it to the Folding and Dispatch from where other financial
activities follows.
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CUSTOMER
MARKETING
PDG
QA PPC
PLANT HEAD
DEPARTMENT
HEADS
FABRIC INSPECTION
CENTRAL Q A
INVOICE & DISPATCH
Fig 3.1 Process flow
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4.
PRODUCTION
PLANNING
AND
CONTROL
16
P.P.C. has a major role to play in the organizations. It creates the link between the production
department and marketing department. It exchanges the information between both the
departments.
(1) Role and Responsibility of P.P.C.
(a) Order Finalization: - The role of P.P.C. starts before the contract is executed and is
in the stage of finalization. Marketing departments sends the sample to the P.P.C. department
with the required delivery date. Then P.P.C. department sends the fabric construction to the
fabric unit in the form of Enquiry Sheet. In the enquiry sheet expected, quality, quantity and
delivery date is mentioned. Then the fabric unit sends back the enquiry sheet mentioning the
availability of the quantity required and time taken against the same quantity. Then P.P.C.
would inform to marketing concern head the actual delivery date.
(b) Making Lab. Dip: If specific colour sample is also sent, then P.P.C. would send the
sample to the quality assurance departments. The Q.A. will make the similar samples (mostly
it is 3) against the sample sent. These samples are added to the Card, which is known as Lab.
Dip. (3 Lab. dip) and spends it to the P.P.C. P.P.C. will forward the same Lab. Dip. To the
marketing concern head and out of the samples the buyer approves send one of them. After
approval of sample contract is signed b/w buyer and the seller.
(2) Production planning and control: -
The contract is send to the PPC department. Then P.P.C. plans the production against the
contract send. Contract number is clearly mentioned on the contract. Contract has the exact
quantity, quality, delivery date and rates. After Which the M.D. PPC signs will first make the
folio and add it to the concerned marketing head folio file. Then production programme is
made for the entire four departments. Production programme is a very important report which
has the full information of the fabric to be processed. Following things are mentioned in the
production programme.
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 Date of execution of the contract
 Delivery date
 Quality No.
 Construction
 Weave
 Quantity
 Packing Institutions
 Shade No.
 Shade
 Finish
 Contract No.
 P.P.C. No.
 Lot No.
Lot Number is a number given against the contract number only against this number, grey
fabric can be issued. To get the grey fabric issued from the store Lot Number is required.
P.P.C. number is the reference number against the particular contract.
(3) Lot Card: Lot card is again a very important document for the production department.
The following things are mentioned.
 Lot No.
 P.P.C. No.
 Grey Information (Sort No., construction, finish width, weight, supplier name)
 Product Information (Shade No. Length in Mtrs.)
 Customer Information (Party Name, Ordered Qty., Delivery Date, Order Quality, No.
Of shade).
 Process Information (Planned date. Delivered Date. Process steps, article no.)
P.O No.: -
P.O number defines the process route of the fabric. The article no. has 7 digits and each digit
has its own meaning.
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Last three digits define the process steps.
Table 4.1
1 2 3 4
FABRIC GROUP FABRIC TYPE CHEMICAL USCHANICAL
1. Bottom WT White Soft Peach
2. Shirting Natural Stiff Normal
3. Cotton DYED Perfume
4. COT/Poly DYED PC RFD finish
5. LYCRA
6. Others.
(4) Complaint Handling:
Complaint from the party against the contract is also handled by the PPC. To trace back the
Bale No. is taken from the partly and send to the folding department. Folding department will
find out the lot number and roll number against the Bale No. Then from the inspection report
which is on 4 point system, the point given is checked. If the complaint is genuine then
compensation is send against the particular complaint.
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5.
HOD: Mr. AMIT WALIA
20
5.1 INTRODUCTION
The grey fabric consists of various kinds of impurities like vegetable matter, waxes etc. In this
section all of these impurities are removed and whiteness in fabric is imparted.
Bleaching section consists of four sections from gray opening to mercerization.
 GREY SECTION
 SINGEING AND DESIZING
 BLEACHING AND SCOURING (PTR)
 MERCERIZATION
21
Fig.5.1 PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM:
FABRIC FROM
FABRIC FROM
WEAVING UNIT
WEAVING UNIT
BALE OPENING
BALE OPENING
SINGEING &
SINGEING &
DESIZING
DESIZING
CONTINUOS
CONTINUOS
PRETREATEUSNT
PRETREATEUSNT
RANGE
RANGE
MERCERISATION
MERCERISATION
RANGE
RANGE
FOR DYEING
FOROrDYEING
Or
FINISHING
FINISHING
22
5.2 GREY CHECKING
In this section, the bales of grey goods are opened and are converted in the form of roles of
required length and then sorting is done that is sort no. is given
Ex 2022116.
First and 2nd digit - Count of fabric (20)
Third digit - Weave
i.e.
0. Dobby design
1. For plain
2. Twill
3. Drill
4. Satin
4th digit - ply of yarn

5th digit - type of loom
6th and 7th digit - serial no. of weaving unit.
23
5.3 SINGEING AND DESIZING
INTRODUCTION
These two pretreatments are given in one machine. Firstly fabric gets singed and then
continuously passed through desizing bath.
SINGEING
It is a process in which protruding fibers on the surface of fabric are burnt. The fabric is
passed over a flame at high speed to obtain a smooth surface; the gas used is L.P.G. for
burning purpose.
DIFFERENT SETTINGS OF THE GAS SINGEING M/C:
1. Speed of the Cloth: This may be varied with the help of differential gears provided.
This is changed according to the GSM of the fabric.
2. Height of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side
of the machine i.e. by changing the pressure of gas of the burner. This can be change when
more heat is to be provided to the fabric i.e. when fabric is heavier in weight and its speed
cannot reduce below a level.
3. Length of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the side
of the machine. This can be change when the width of the cloth is more or less than the
width of the flame.
24
IMPROVED PROPERTIES
 Improved luster.
 Minimized pilling tendency.
 Smoothens the fabric and improves the feel of the fabric.
DESIZING
It is the removal of size material from the grey fabric. Sizing is done to provide strength to
cotton warp to meet the requirement of weaving. But this sized layer is to be removed before
wet processing as it reduces the absorbing power of the fabric. Here enzymatic steep method
is used for desizing because it is effective for ecology and quality of desizing. The starch is
degraded as:
Starch Dextrin (Insol) Dextrin (Sol.)
Fig 5.2 Degradation of starch

Basis parameters which affect the activity of the enzyme are following:
 TEMPERATURE.
 pH
 Time of Contact( IMPREGNATION )
Fig 5.3 PROCESS FLOW OF SINGEING AND DESIZING

25
Keep the batch in rotation for 8-12 hours
Table 5.1: SINGEING PARAMETERS
MACHINE MAKE Osthoff Senge, Germany

MODEL NAME 42327WUPPERTAL
SOURCE OF FLAME Mixture of Gas & Air(75:25)
NO. OF BURNERS 2
GAS PRESSURE 12-13m bar
MAXIMUM SPEED OF FABRIC 100 mt/min.
FLAME HEIGHT 2.5 inch to 4.5 inch (according to quality)
NO. OF BRUSHING UNITS 2
Table 5.2: RECIPE FOR ENZYME DESIZING
ENZYME 5 g/l
WETTING AGENT 5 g/l
CHILATING AGENT 3 g/l
Table 5.3 DESIZING PARAMETERS
26
CAPACITY OF DESIZE BATH 750 lt.
TEMP 75oC
NIP PRESSURE 2 bar
ENZYME USED BIOAOURLASE (OM Logistic Ltd.)
WETTING AGENT USED Lenetol CBRD (CRODA Chemicals Ind.)
CHILLATING AGENT USED Intox (CLARIANT Chemicals Ind.)
% EXPRESSION 100%
5.4 CONTINUOUS PRE TREATEMENT RANGE
The fabric from batch (after storing for 8-12 hrs) is continuously processed for following
processes- Desize wash, combined scour-bleach, Washing, Neutralization, and Drying.
DESIZE WASHER
INTRODUCTION
The action of enzyme hydrolyses the starch into soluble degradation products. They are
removed completely before further processes on the INJECTA unit by the action of steam &
water jets then hot wash at 95OC is given to the fabric in the EXTRACTA unit.
Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN DESIZE WASHER
FABRIC PRE WETTING AT INJECTA UNIT

FABRIC
FROM PRE WETTING
65O C AT INJECTA+UNIT
(Steaming hot
O
FROM
BATCH 65 C water Spray) hot
(Steaming +
BATCH water Spray) 27
EXTRACTA UNIT
EXTRACTA
(WASHINGUNIT
To IMPACTA UNIT
To IMPACTA UNIT (WASHING
AT 95 C)
O
AT 95 C)
O
INJECTA: The Desize module of INJECTA is exclusively used to wash the fabric. With the
INJECTA, the intensive washing system, all types of size from PVA to starch are removed
without preswelling. Other relevant advantages are small space requirement and minimum
water consumption.
Technical Data:
1. Temperature - 100 C
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2. Degree of Humidity –
Humidity at the in feed end : 60 – 70% or Dry.

Humidity at delivery (depend on fabric) : Max 130%.
3. Utilities –
Water : 400 l/m.

Saturated Steam : 4.5 bar.
Compressed Air : 7 bar.
EXTRACTA:
It is used to wash the fabric using counter current flow of water. The high Washing effect of
this machine is achieved through exact liquor segregation and counter-flow guidance. It has
been designed for especially low power and water consumption.
Temperature -
Maximum washing temperature : 95 C.
Heat up time (approx.) : 10 min.
Utilities -
Maximum water consumption : 4 to 8 ltr per kg.

(Direct heating)
29
Steam pressure : 4 – 5 bar.
Fig 5.4
30
PRETREATMENT RANGE
It is a combined process in which Scouring and Bleaching is done. In this process we remove
natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character like oils, fats, waxes
etc. As completely as possible and leave the fabric in a highly absorptive condition without
undergoing significant chemical or physical change or damage and also for removing the
natural coloring matter of cotton to give the fabric a white effect. This white effect is essential
for the dyeing process especially for the light or medium shades.
The natural impurities & natural coloring matter can be destroyed by this combined process.
Table 5.4 Chemical used in Pre Treatment Range:-

Tank NO. Chemicals
1. H2O2
2. NaOH
3. CBRD
4. Intox
5. Lanitol CESE
Function of chemicals:-
H2O2- Universal Bleaching Agent

This liberates nascent oxygen which is responsible for the bleaching action.
CBRD- Wetting Agent

The surface tension of water prevents the wetting of hydrophobic material and it is therefore
necessary to reduce it to enable fabric to be wetted easily. For removal of impurities during
scouring it is necessary to incorporate a wetting agent or surface active agent.
31
NaOH- Conversion of glycerides of fatty acids into soap by the use of NaOH is called
“SAPONIFICATION”. Thus the oils and fats in the cotton textile are saponified during the
scouring process into water soluble products.
One more important function of NaOH in the semi-bleach or combined process is to activate
H2O2 it liberates nascent oxygen because of which bleaching is done in the CONTINUOUS
PROCESS.
INTOX- Sequristing Agent

A sequristing agent can ‘Chelate’ (combine to form complex with) the metallic ions in water
and also reduce the hardness of water. These agents can replace the use of Sodium Silicate
and Sodium Hexa-meta phosphate to some extent.
Lanitol CESE- Stabliser

This is to control the rapid decomposition of the peroxide when alkali is added in the solution
i.e. to ensure a fairly uniform availability of the per hydroxyl ion for the bleaching action
stabiliser are used.
32
Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER PRETREATMENT RANGE:-
FabricFrom
From IMPECTAUNIT
UNIT REACTAUNIT UNIT
Fabric IMPECTA REACTA
For Steaming
EXTRACTA (Impregnation in For Steaming
EXTRACTA (Impregnation in ( Dwell Time = 20 min.)
WASHER Bleaching and ( Dwell Time = 20 min.)
WASHER Bleaching and
scouring chemicals)
scouring chemicals)
FORTRACTA
FORTRACTA
UNIT:
UNIT:
(Pre hot washing)
(Pre hot washing)
Impurities sticking to
Impurities sticking to
the fabric surface are
the fabric surface are
removed.
removed.
VERTICAL NEUTRILIZATION EXTRECTA

VERTICAL NEUTRILIZATION EXTRECTA
DRYING With Acetic acid UNIT
DRYING With Acetic acid UNIT
Counter current flow
RANGE Counter current flow
RANGE
To dry the fabric
washing
washing
To dry the fabric
Table 5.5 RECIPE

H2O2 30 – 40 ml/kg
SEQUSTRANT 2 ml/kg
WETTING AGENT 3 ml/kg
STABILIZER 7 - 10 ml/kg
NaOH 27 – 30 ml/kg
5.5 IMPECTA UNIT
33
The impregnation module contains only a small volume of liquor, impregnation fabric under
high turbulence & high temperature with minimum amount of liquor.
The chemicals are injected by force. Water is added continuously. Water supply is controlled
by level regulation.
The amount of chemicals can be varied between normal impregnation & high wet pick up
impregnation via the adjustable squeeze roller.
The displacer with the guide roller guides the fabric into the liquor. The level is determined by
the weight of the floater in the liquor by the level sensor.
Temperature:
Maximum treatment temperature = 60 C.
Moisture content:
At in feed end = 60-70%.

At deliver end = max 130%.
REACTA (STEAMER):
The chemicals applied to the fabric react in the steamer according to the specific process .the
steamer can provide tight strand fabric guidance or place the fabric on the roller bed for
stationary dwell time of up to 60 min .the automatic and regulating station guarantees
consistent and air free contestation .
Temperature:
34
Heat up time = 30 min.
Various ways of passing fabric through steamer:
1. Short time steamer with

reaction , cloth content = 25-
200mt.
2. Steamer with single roller bed,

reaction time = 3-40 min.
3. Combination steamer with

single roller bed, reaction time =
3-45min. This type is used in the
NIEL Fabric Unit-2
Fig 5.6
4. Combination steamer with double roller bed, reaction time = 5-60min
5.6 FORTRACTA:
35
Purpose: it is used for:-
1. washing
2. Even batching guides fabric properly.
3. Avoid any creasing in the fabric.
Temperature:
Moisture content:
At in feed end = 60-70%.

At deliver end = max 130%.
EXTRACTA WASHER:
There are four washing chambers based on counter current washing principle.
Neutralization:
When the mercerization is not required then neutralization is done in forth washer.
If mercerization is done then no there is no need of neutralization.
36
Fortracta
Extracta washer Neutralization Vertical Drying Range Exit J-scray
Fig 5.7
CYLINDER DRYING MACHINE
The bleached fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is a
vertical drying range with 30 cylinders.
Functions: -
Function of this machine is to dry the fabric after various chemical Processes like bleaching,
dyeing etc. whose final product is wet fabric.
Features: -
The machine is based on the principle of high temp steam hating. The drying Range consists
of no. of mangle rollers which removes approximately 70% of water from the fabric. It
consists of a bow shaped roller to remove crease from the fabric.
There are 30 cylinders arranged vertically and heated by steam vapourize water from the
fabric. Starting four rollers are coated with a paint to give initially normal heating so that Face
to back effect can be avoided. One motor drives all the hot cylinders through belt. Another
separate motor is provided for driving 3 cooling cylinders. Chilled water is circulated through
the cooling cylinders. There is a length measuring cylinder. There are two exhaust fans for
exhausting the humid air at the upper side, driven by two motors.
Steam pressure : 2.5 – 5 kg/sq. cm
Temp of the machine : 120-150 C.
Speed of fabric : 60-65 mt/min (for suiting).

80 mt/min (for shirting).
37
Fig 5.8
5.7 MERCERISATION
Impregnation of wet or dry fabric in caustic soda solution of determined concentration under
tension is the process called mercerization.
38
OBJECTIVES OF MERCERIZATION
1. Improve Luster
2. Provide Dimensional Stability
3. Increase Absorbency
4. Increase Dye-ability
5. Reduction in Convolutions
Fig 5.9 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER MERCIRISER
VARIOUS UNITS IN MERCERIZATION:
BEN DIUSNSA:-
39
Its function is to accumulate the fabric in J-Scray when batch changing has to be done
PRE WETTING SECTION:-
First the fabric is passes through the water and then fabric passes through the pre wetting
trough containing week lye (alkali of 10 Be) , this improves the initial absorbency of fabric .
IMPREGATION ZONE:-
Fabric passes through strong alkali solution with following specifications
Strength of caustic = 29 Be.

Temperature = 60 C.
Passage length = 14 m.
NOTE: - 1 Be (Bauus) = 1.4 Tw = 6 gpl = 0.59%.
DWELLING ZONE:-
This is used to give required dwell time after impregnation by passing through the cylinders
(Passage length = 32 m.). After the fabric is squeezed.
STENTRING ZONE (chain with pin):-
Its object is to stretch the fabric to provide required tension.
40
EXTRACTA WASHERS:-
There are six washers. Initial four washers for the hot washing of the fabric and fifth washer is
for neutralization and sixth again for washing.
5.8 PEACHING
41
Peaching is a process of developing very low pile on the surface of fabric. Peaching of fabric
is done by using emerising or brushing system depends on quality & construction of fabric,
effect required by customer etc. In Nahar Group there are machines of both type of
mechanism.
Caru (emerizing system) –1

Gematex (emerizing system) – 2
Lafer (Brushing system) –1
GEMATEX:
MADE : GEMATEX (GERMANY)
NO. OF PILE ROLLS : 12
NO. OF COUNTER PILE ROLES : 12
DIRECTIONS OF PILE ROLES : IN THE DIRECTION OF RUNNING FABRIC
DIRECTION OF COUNTER PILE ROLES: IN THE DIRECTION OPP. TO

RUNNING FABRIC.
ENERGY OF PILE ROLES: 50 – 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND

QUANTITY)
ENERGY OF CP ROLES: 50 – 200 (DEPENDS ON EFFECT REQUIRED AND

QUANTITY)
EMERY OF PILR ROLES : 220 GRIT
EMERY OF CP ROLES : 100 GRIT
RPM OF DRUM : 90 – 110
42
In this machine, required effect we can change energy of pile and counter pile roles, rpm of
drum, speed of machine & tension of fabric on emery drum.
6
43
HOD: Mr. ARNAV GHOSH
44
6.1 INTRODUCTION
Dyeing is defined as the application of dye to fibers (according to their affinity) to have
desired colour. Every natural or synthetic fiber varies in affinity or capacity to take the
dyestuffs.
In Nahar Fabrics, dyeing is done at fabric stage. Main types of fabrics those are dyed are:
1) 100% cotton fabric
2) P/C blend.
3) Lycra (less quantity)
MACHINERY IN DYEING
1) PAD-DRY
2) PAD-STEAM
Fig 6.1 PROCESS FLOW ON PAD DRY:-
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
ENTRY J-SCRAY, E+L GUIDE, BRUSHING UNIT
COOLING CYLINDER
KUSTER PADDING MANGLE
AIRING DEVICE
IR PREHEATER
3 HOT FLUE CHAMBERS
COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-SCRAY, E + L GUIDE, BATCHING
45
Fig 6.1 PAD DRY IN NAHAR PROCESSING UNIT-2(VIEW FROM EXIT END)
VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD DRY
1. Batch of fabric:- Batch of fabric
2. Tensioning guides: - To give proper passage and tension to the fabric.
3. Entry J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be

done.
4. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5. Brushing unit: - It consists of two brushing roller. This is provided to remove fluffs
from the peached fabric. Brushing efficiency can be changed according to
requirement by changing the position of side handle
46
6. Exhaust fan: - From the other side of brushing roller a motor driven fan is provided
for exhausting the waste and collecting it in to separate bags.
7. Cooling cylinders: - To maintain uniform temperature which facilitate in uniform

pickup of dye liquor.
8. Kuster mangle: - Fabric is passed through the Padding mangle where the colour
padding takes place. It is jacketed by chilled water line to maintain its temperature.
* 2 dip 2 nips.
* Differential pressure along left, middle and right portion of fabric.
Fig 6.2
9. Ring device: - There are 11 guide rollers to give time for airing.
10. IR-pre heater: - The cloth is passed through Infra red unit where 50-60% fabric is
dried with the help of infrared rays. Gas and air mixture is supplied to burners from
MAXON GAS STATION to produce IR rays. The temperature inside is around
750c.
11. Drying chambers:-

47
Further the fabric is passed through 3 heating chambers. These heating chambers are heated
with the help of furnace oil and heat is exhausted with the help of fans in it. The temperature
of the chambers depends on the type of fabrics. The temperature in these chambers is
maintained somewhere around 140-180 degrees (for thermosol dyeing) and 100-130 degrees
(for other methods).
The time for drying /thermosoling depends upon the speed of the fabric which in turn depends
upon quality of fabric (GLM).
For light weight fabric high speed, lees time for drying and also lower IR temperature, drying
temperature and fan% while higher exhaust%.
PLEVA (Sensor):- Attached outside the chamber in each hot flue chamber used to control
humidity in the case of E-control process
12. The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder.
13. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate the continuous process while batch changing has to be
done.
14. E+L guide: - To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge
15. Length measuring roller and antis tats are also provided
 Then the fabric is rolled on the rolling beam with the moisture content of 2-3%.
 Further the fabric is sent for colour fixation and developing.
Fig 6.2 PROCESS FLOW ON PAD STEAMER:-

48
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
ENTRY J-SCRAY, E+L GUIDE, LENGTH

MEASURING ROLLER
BICOFLEX PADDER
STEAMING UNIT
WATER LOCK UNIT
EXTRACTA WASHER
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE
COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-SCRAY, E + L GUIDE, BATCHING
49
6.2 VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD STEAM
1. Batch of fabric.
2. Tensioning guides:-
To give proper passage and the tension to the fabric.
3. Entry J-scary:-
To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done.
4. E+L guide & length measuring roller:-

To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge.
5. BICOFLEX Padder:-
 The fabric is passed through hydro and caustic for vat development and for reactive dye,
fabric passed through alkali solution and 60% chemical pickup takes place.
 Temperature of padding bath is 35-40 C.Normally tried to be done at room temperature.
 Even pressure throughout the width of the fabric.
6. REACTA:-
The fabric is then passed through steam chambers here the chemical reaction takes a dwelling
time of one minute and dyes enter the fabric completely.
Various features of Reacta:-
1. Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan for excess steam.
2. Section with 25 m fabric content.
3. Large fabric diameters (193 mm) for creaseless fabric runs.
4. Lifetime lubricated bearings.
5. Top rollers individually driven by AC motors.
6. Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control.
7. Roof heating.
50
8. Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor distribution. In water seal
continuous chilled water is circulated through the jacket, which facilitates in the
removal of condensed steam.
9. Temperature or volume controlled fresh water flow to the water seal.
10. Steam conditioning unit.
11. Probe to measure steam condition.
12. Automatic cleaning system.
Fig 6.3
7. Washing unit:-
 Washer-1&2 having water temp. 40 C used for cold washing.
 Washer-3, 4&5 are used for vat development (H 2O2) or simple hot washing/soaping
for reactive dyed/white fabric.
 Za Washer- 6&7 are used for soaping.
 Washer-8 for hot washing.
 Washer-9 for neutralization and washing both in the same chambers.
As this machine is inclined in position from backward side so it uses less water as washed
fabric comes in contact with the fabric first then it goes to the other section.ie water flows
from washer-9 to washer-1.
8. Vertical drying range:-

The dyed fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is a vertical
drying range with 33cylinders.
51
9. Cooling cylinders:-The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder.
10. Exit J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to be done.
11. E+L guide:- To guide the fabric by guiding the selvedge
12. Batching or Trolley: - Finally fabric is batched or collected in trolley.
6.3 VARIOUS METHODS OF DYEING:-
1. PDPS for vat dye on 100% cotton.

2. PDPS for reactive dye on 100% cotton.
3. E-CONTROL.
4. THERMOSOL/PDPS vat (PET/Cotton).
5. THERMOSOL/PDPS reactive (PET/Cotton).
6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
52
1. PDPS for vat dye on 100% cotton
Fig 6.4 Process flow diagram of PDPS Vat Dye on 100% COTTON
PADDING IN DYE PAD AIR PASSAGE PRE DRYING

VAT DYESTUFF FOR DYE ON
+ PENETRATION IR DRYER
AUXILIARIES
DRYING PADDING IN
ON CHEMICALS
STEAMING
HOT AIR FLUE ON
PAD STEAUSR
CHEMICAL
WASHING OXIDATION NEUTRALISATIO
& Then
SOAPING DRYING ON VDR
53
2. PDPS for reactive dye on 100% cotton.
Process flow diagram of PDPS Reactive Dye on 100% COTTON
PADDING IN DYE PAD AIR PASSAGE PRE DRYING

REACTIVE DYE FOR DYE ON
SOLUTION PENETRATION IR DRYER
DRYING PADDING IN
ON CHEMICALS
STEAMING
HOT AIR FLUE ON
PAD STEAUSR
COLD SOAPING
WASHING & NEUTRALISATION
HOT WASHING Then
DRYING ON VDR
54
3. E-CONTROL Reactive Dyeing Process
Basic principle of E-control process.

The E-Control process comprises just 3 steps:
 Application of dye,
 Drying, and
 Washing off.
The dyeing system must be carefully balanced to ensure complete fixation of the Remazol or
Levafix dyes within the drying time.
However, complete fixation of reactive dyes is not possible in normal drying conditions
because of the wet bulb temperature, which is a characteristic of all convection-based drying
systems. It means that during drying, the temperature of the moist goods is far lower than the
surrounding temperature
In normal drying processes the temperature on the goods can drop to 50-55°C. The exact
temperature depends on the humidity of the air used to dry the goods. If humidity is 25% and
the air temperature is 120°C, the temperature on the surface of the goods is around 68°C. If
humidity is 30%, the temperature on the goods is around 71°C.
The E-control process uses this physical fact to fix the reactive dye during drying. Three key
variables — time, temperature and humidity — are used to ensure accurate control of the
dyeing process in the Thermex hot flue.
55
6.4 RECOMMENDED DYES, AUXILIARIES AND ALKALI SYSTEMS
Evidently, the dyes used in the E-control process have to be suitable for the process
conditions. Since dyeing is completed in approximate 2-3 minutes, reactive dyes with high to
medium reactivity are particularly suitable. All Levafix and most Remazol dyes can be used.
In practice, Levafix dyes are used for pale to medium shades, while Remazol dyes are used
for medium to very deep shades.
Soda ash or soda ash/NaOH is normally used as the alkali system. To ensure optimum
reliability, it is essential to dose the alkali and dye solutions separately. For example, the
following amounts of alkali are recommended for LevafixCA dyes:
Table 6.1
AMOUNT OF DYE UP TO 10 GPL >10-30GPL > 30 GPL
Soda ash 20 20 20
NaOH 50% - 2 ml/ltr 4 ml/ltr
Common auxiliaries used in continuous dyeing processes can be used, e.g. wetting agents,
antimigration agents and, if necessary, sequestering agents.
A mild oxidant can be added to prevent reduction of the dyes. Urea is not essential for the E-
control process but up to 50 g/l may be advantageous in same circumstances.
56
Features of the E-control process
 E-control process does not use a separate fixation step. By contrast, all other continuous
dyeing processes require separate fixation of same sort.
 The E-control process requires 35% less time.
 The process also has a logistical benefit: since the goods are dry at the end of the E-
control dyeing process, they do not have to be washed off immediately and can be stored
without problem.
 E-control can be used to dye all shades that can be obtained with reactive dyes. That
includes brilliant turquoise, deep Bordeaux, deep navy and, of course, black.
Energy and chemical requirements
 The E-control process needs far less energy than the e.g. PDPS process because it cuts
out the extra fixation step (steaming).
 For chemicals, unlike the PDPS process, the E-control process does not require any
salt.
 The amount of alkali is similar.
Limitation
Nevertheless, like all dyeing processes, E-control does have its limitations:
 The first is that Indanthrene dyes can be dried by using the Thermex hot flue but not
fixed as an air free steamer is required for this.
 Pale to medium shades can be dyed on PES/COTTON blends using a modified one-
bath TTN process but a separate thermosol step is required after the E-control step.
Consequently, at least two Thermex chambers are required.
 More experience is needed to obtain reproducible dyeing on very lightweight qualities
(<60 g/m²) than on heavier fabrics.
 The E-control process is not entirely suitable for heavyweight pile and loop pile goods
such as terry toweling because there is a risk of frosting.
57
 The appearance of same goods dyed under E-control conditions differs from their
appearance in the PDPS process. This means the two processes are not always
interchangeable.
4. THERMOSOL/PDPS VAT (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.5 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/PDPS vat (PET/Cotton)
AIR PASSAGE PRE DRYING

PADDING OF FABRIC IN FOR DYE ON
DISPERSE/VAT DYE PENETRATION IR DRYER
SOLUTION
VAT DEVELOPUSNT
& STEAMING then
THERMOFIXATION REDUCTION CLEARING COLD WASH
ON ON
HOT AIR FLUE PAD STEAUSR
SOAPING IN 3
OXIDATION WITH WASHING NEUTRALIZAION
H2O2 CHAMBERS then
HOT WASH
DRYING
OF
FABRIC ON VDR
58
5. THERMOSOL/PDPS reactive (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.6 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/PDPS Reactive (PET/Cotton) :

DISPERSE DYE PENETRATION IR DRYER
REDUCTION
THERMOFIXATION CLEARING
DRYING ON VDR
ON ON
HOT AIR FLUE PAD STEAUSR
PADDING OF FABRIC AIR PASSAGE then DRYING

IN PRE DRYING ON
REACTIVE DYE ON ON HOT AIR FLUE
PAD DRY IR DRYER
PADDING IN STEAMING + CW
CHEMICALS + HW +SOAPING DRYING
ON + HW + OF
PAD STEAMER NEUTRALIZAIO FABRIC ON VDR
59
6. THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL (PET/Cotton)
Fig 6.7 Process flow diagram of THERMOSOL/E-CONTROL Reactive (PET/Cotton):

DISPERSE DYE PENETRATION IR DRYER
THERMOFIXATION REDUCTION
ON CLEARING
DRYING ON VDR
HOT AIR FLUE ON
PAD STEAUSR
PADDING OF FABRIC AIR PASSAGE then

IN PRE DRYING FIXATION OF
REACTIVE DYE+ALKALI ON DYE ON HOT AIR
ON PAD DRY IR DRYER FLUE
RINSING
& DRYING
SOAPING NEUTRALISATION OF
ON PAD STEAUSR FABRIC ON VDR
60
6.5 YARN DYEING
GREY YARN
SOFT WINDING
MACHINE LOADING
DYEING
DRYING
HYDROEXTRACTOR
R F DRYER
CONE WINDING
CONDITIONING
61
SOFT WINDING
Packages are transformed from paper cone which comes from the spinning department. For
dyeing generally 1800gm packages are prepared which are winded on plastic cheese. In NIEL
plastic cheese are used. The machines used for cone to cheese conversion are SSM CW1-W,
Perciflex Technology.
DYEING
The number of machines in the yarn dyeing department is 21. All the machines are High
Temperature High Pressure machines.
The capacity of the machines varies from:
Table 6.2
Capacity No. Of Machines

1 kg 4
3.6 kg 1
10 kg 4
18 kg 1
25-36 kg 2
65 kg 2
100 kg 1
150 kg 2
324 kg 1
518 kg 1
1100 kg 1
Packages are generally of 1.2 kg to 1.8 kg.
62
All the processes which are included i.e. pretreatment, dyeing, finishing of grey yarn are done
in the same machine and in single flow of the yarn i e. all these processes are done
sequentially.
The machine consists of basically 3 tanks:

1. Main tank – This is used for all the processes and has a lid over it. This consists of all
the material and chemical solution.
2. Stock tank – This is the storage tank where the entire chemicals are mixed with the
help of a stirrer.
3. Dosing tank – This tank is used for dosing the chemicals in the appropriate quantity in
a regulated manner.
6.6 SEMI-BLEACH
This includes scouring and bleaching of yarn in the same bath. The chemicals used for this
are:-
Lenatol FFC – Air Removing Agent

Lenatol HPLF – Wetting Agent
Sandophor R3C – Sequristing Agent
Caustic Flax - Alkali
Lenatol HPBS – Peroxide Stabliser
H2O2 – Bleaching Agent
Ustaxil BABK – Peroxide Killer
After these processes we need to neutralize the solution so that the pH is maintained at 6.5 for
this we use
Green Acid – Neutraliser
Time Required – 1hrs.45min
The dosing and the flow of the sequence are shown by a graph which indicates the
temperature, chemical, dosing and holding time.
63
DYEING
Dri Mazine ER – Levelling Agent

Sandophor R3C – Sequristing Agent
Dye Solution for HE Reactive (Ferozee)
Pro yellow HE4R

Tult Blue XLE
Pro Blue HERD
Glauber Salt – Exhausting Agent

Soda – Fixating Agent
Green Acid – Neutralizer
Saracol 1583 – Soaping
Acetic Acid – Neutralizer
HCF – Dye Fixing Agent
pH – 10.6
Holding time – 45 min
Above all the processes are indicated the dosing and the flow of the sequence is shown by a
graph which indicate the temperature, chemical , dosing and holding time.
Finishing Chemicals:
Generally Softeners are used in same solution
Perifil – Resin Finish

Resil - lubricant
Wax Emulsion.
64
6.7 DRYING
Drying is done with the help of two machines here. First one is HYDROEXTRACTOR and
second one is R F DRIER.
In Hydroextracor only the water present on the outer layer and between the fibres are
removed. The moisture present in the interstitial of the fibre is not removed. This is essential
to remove the extra water present in the yarn only. The efficiency of this machine is around
50-60% i.e. it removes this much amount of water.
Specification:-
The machine used here is of DETTIN, ITALY .
The capacity of the machine is 18 packages of 1.8 or 1.2 kg.
Time cycle is of 10 min.
Running time of drying is 7 min
Speed of rotation is 0 – 1100 rpm
Mechanism – Centrifugal force is applied on the yarns.
RF DRIER.
This is a machine based on the principle of radio frequency. In this machine the water
molecules are vibrated at a speed of 18000 cycles per sec. This machine basically removes all
the moisture present in the material except the moisture content of the material.
Specification
The drying zone length in the machine is of 7 mt length.
The speed of the machine is 6.5 mt/hr
Temperature – 98c
Conveyer belt is made of fibrous plastic material.
65
7.
TESTING LAB
HOD: - MR. DHAWAN SHARMA
66
7.1 Introduction:
Research & Development department is the backbone of any industry. It deals not only with
the present problems but also with the problems that could arise in future.
Objectives of R & D
 Quality Control
 Productivity Improvement
 Shade matching
 Process Control
 Product Development and Testing
 Buyer Satisfaction
 Specification Tests
Sections of R & D
 Physical testing Lab

 Chemical testing lab
 Dyeing Lab
Physical testing lab

It includes various tests like shrinkage test, strength test etc. These tests are performed to
ensure the quality of the fabrics.
Various kinds of tests performed are:
For mercerized fabric
 Shrinkage test
 Tensile Strength
67
 Absorbency test (drop method)
 Whiteness test
 pH of the fabric
 Width
 Residual Size Content
 Dip test
For dyed fabric
 Fastness properties
 Washing fastness test
 Wet fastness test
 Rubbing fastness test
For finished fabric

 Shrinkage test
 Skew test
 Tensile Strength
 Tear Strength
 Fastness test
 Washing Fastness test
 Wet fastness Test
 Rubbing fastness test
 EPI & PPI test (ends per inch and picks per inch)
 Crease Recovery Angle
For fabric from folding department
 Shrinkage test
 Strength test
 Skew test
 EPI and PPI test
 GSM test
 Count of the yarn in the fabric
68
7.2 INSTRUMENTS USED IN PHYSICAL TESTING LAB
CROCK METER
Fig 7.1
Table 7.1
MAKE Jauss H. Heal

USE To check Rubbing fastness
SAMPLE SIZE 14.5 x 4 cm
CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE TESTER

Table 7.2
MAKE Jauss H. Heal

USE To ensure the Crease Recovery Angle
TEST METHOD AATCC 66
69
SAMPLE SIZE 40x15 mm
LOAD APPLIED 500 grams, 2 Kg
PORTABLE SPECTROPHOTOMETER
Table 7.3
MAKE Jauss H. Heal

USE To check the extent of P/C blend.
GROWTH TESTER
Table 7.4
MAKE C.M. and Sons

To determine the amount of fabric
USE
Stretch and fabric growth.
TEST METHOD A.S.T.M. D310
DELUXE PH METER
Table 7.5
MODEL 101 E
USE To check the pH of the fabric.
ABRASION TESTER
70
Fig 7.2
Table 7.6
MAKE JaussH.Heal
USE To check the extend of abrasion
TEST METHOD B.S.5690
MAGNASCOPE
Table 7.7
MAKE Paramount
USE To magnify the specimen
SPRAY TESTER
Table 7.7
MAKE Paramount
USE To check water repellency
TEST METHOD AATCC 22
TEARING STRENGTH TESTER
71
Fig 7.3
Table 7.8
MAKE Jauss H. Heal

To ensure the resistance offered by a pre
USE
cut specimen to a falling pendulum.
TEST METHOD ISO 9290
SAMPLE SIZE 100x63 mm
TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

Table 7.8
MAKE Jauss H. Heal
USE To ensure the resistance of fabric .To
break under a tensile load applied.
TEST METHOD ASTM D5037
SAMPLE SIZE 35x5 cm
LIGHT CABINET
Table 7.9
MAKE JAUSS H. HEAL

USE To match colour under specified light
source
LIGHT SOURCES TL 84, D 65, F, UV.
72
7.3 CHEMICAL TESTING LAB
 All the chemicals used in the processing of the fabric are checked here, the quality and
the property of the chemicals and accordingly the usage are made.
 The chemical dosing done in all the process like bleaching, Dyeing is tried here on the
scale model machines and thus the suggestions are given as required by the concerned
department.
 The department also gives the usage pattern of the chemicals as per the quality and
concentration of the chemicals.
 The sample preparation as per the instructions of the PPC and buyer is also prepared in the
department.
 Shrinkage checking: the fabric is washed and dried 3 or more times as per the requirement
to check the level of shrinkage in the cloth.
 Washing fastness; the removal of colour from the fabric is checked the fabric is washed
with the solution of Soda Ash (2 gm), Detergent (5gm) and water (1 Lt.) The cloth is left
for the dwelling time of half an hour under 60-degree temperature. And thus the washing
fastness is checked that who much colour the fabric is leaving.
Thus the chemical testing department plays important role in developing the fabric as per the
requirements of the buyer.
Various chemicals that are used in the mill are tested for strength, gpl (gram per liter),
percentage purities etc.
Chemicals that are tested in lab are –
73
 NaOH
 H2O2
 HCl
 Soda Ash
 Hydro
 Lime
7.4 DYEING LAB

The main function of dyeing lab is shade matching. It means to produce the required shade by
finding the correct recipe required and correcting it. The samples of same RFD are dyed
before dyeing the fabric in bulk to check the recipe prepared for colour matching.
MACHINE USED IN DYEING LAB
CCM LAB
Name of instrument : Spectrophotometer
Model : colour eye 7000 A0
Gretagmacheth.
Make : McBEATH
No. of instrument : 1
Objective:-
1. Matching & ensurement of colour or shade.
2. Whiteness assessment.
PADDING MANGLE
Make Mathis, Switzerland
Max speed 1m/sec
Pressure 3.2 bar (for vat)
4.8 bar (for p/c)
Function To pad the dye onto the fabric
74
Hot flue
Make Mathis, Switzerland
Max speed 2 m/sec
Max temperature 250°C
Purpose Drying, Curing, Thermosoling
PADDING MANGLE
Make Indian
Speed 3 m/min
Pressure 3.4 bar
Purpose For reactive batching
For applying finishing liquor
MICROWAVE
Purpose Gives 8/16 hours batching effect in 8-15 mins.
AUTO DISPENSER
Make Datacolour
No. of Bottles 101
No. of Machine 2
No. of Display 3 (two for colour & one for water amount)
E-CONTROL
Made Mathis, Switzerland.
Object reactive dye development by saturated steam.
Dwell time 11 sec.
Air Temp. 1200 C
75
SAME MACHINE PARAMETER
PADDING MANGLE
Table 7.10
Padding parameter Set point

Nip Pressure 4.8 bar
Speed 1.0 m/min
Expression 60 %
Trough Temp 25oC
HOT FLUE (FOR THERMOSOLING)

Table 7.11
IR Off
Temperature 220°C
Speed 0.6m/min
FOR VAT DRYING

Table 7.12
Parameter Set point

I.R.Level 70 %
Speed 1 m/min
Temp Of Drying Range 140OC
76
CDR PARAMETERS (FOR PDPS ROUTE)
Table 7.13
Parameters Set point
Speed 3 m/min
Steamer Dwell Time 1 min
Roof Temp 100OC
Nip Pressure 2 bar
77
8
78
HOD: MR. VISHNUPAL BHATNAGAR
8.1 DETAILS ABOUT FOLDING SECTION
INTRODUCTION:
After finishing, the fabric comes to the folding department for the inspection and packing.
FOLDING DEPARTMENT WORKS IN FIVE SECTIONS:
 INSPECTION & GRADING

 GROUPING
 RECORDING
 SAMPLING
 PACKING
79
INSPECTION & GRADING: On inspection machine various types of defects per counted
and according to these defects penalty are given. For this ASQC 4 point system is used
(American Society for Quality and Control).
Table 8.1
Defect Size Penalty Points

Up to 3” 1
3” – 6” 2
6” – 9” 3
More than 9” 4
There are four types of defects
 CONTINUOUS DEFECT:
o Any easily perceptible defect in a continuous nature constitutes a continuous
defect. It shall be assigned 4 points for each meter.
 MINOR DEFECT:
o These defects up to the length of 1” – 9”. These defects are given penalty
points from 1 to 4.
 MAJOR DEFECTS:
o In a piece length up to 100 meters – 0 to 6
o 100 to 200 meters – 7 to 12
 CUTABLE DEFECTS:
80
o Up to ½ sq. inch – 4 points
o More than ½ sq. inch – to be cut.
Grading is done as-

Table 8.2
Grade Condition
A 25 points in 100 m
AS 25 TO 50 points in 100 m
But piece length 10 – 20 m
C 25 to 50 points in 100 m
Continuous defect
D More than 50 points, Continuous defect
GRADING:
Table 8.3
GRADE DESCRIPTION
A Fresh
AS Fresh short length(10 – 20 mt.
D Major damage
S Sample
8.2 METHOD FOR POINT CALCULATION:
TO CALCULATE THE POINT/100 SQ. USTRE

FOR INDIVIDUAL ROLL:
(TOTAL NO. OF POINTS *100*100)/(LENGTH OF ROLL IN MT. * WIDTH IN CM.)
 GROUPING:
81
After inspection grouping is done. In this sample of 15 cm length each role and then grouping
is done according to shade. The samples which are closer in shade are kept in one group.
 RECORDING:
In this process, sort no., lot no., roll no., wt. length grade of the given roll and finally the
group of the roll is recorded and saved in computer. We can check the whole information.
 SAMPLING:
In sampling we cut a 5 m piece from the hosiery and sent to the concerned party for checking.
When it goes to the party, party looks its shade, feel, finish and quality finally and gives its
approval. For sampling we sent approximately 2 m piece. Sampling is done mainly for
marketing persons. Marketing persons goes to party, show the samples and bring order.
 PACKING:
After inspection and grading, the roll piece goes for packing. This is the last section of the
department. Here packing is done with LLD (linear low density polyethylene).
Thickness of this material is 23 micron and wt. of roll is 15 kg. Same particulars like roll no.,
net wt., sort no., lot no., are written on slip and pasted on fabric.
8.3 LIST OF VARIOUS DEFECTS IN GREY FABRIC:-
1. Reed mark
2. Reed cut
3. Pulled warp
4. Coarser end
5. Coarser pick
6. Starting mark
7. Float
8. Slack end
9. Double end
82
10. Double pick
11. Three ply
12. Slubby warp (Long slub)
13. Slubby weft
14. Missing End
15. Missing Pick
16. Broken pick
17. Thick place
18. Un twisted yarn
19. Warp Break with high tension
20. Temple mark
21. Wrong Drawing
22. Wrong Denting
23. Broken Pattern
24. Crack
25. Count mix
26. Stitches
27. Sizing stain
28. Oil & grease stain
29. Dirt stain
30. Tear
31. Defective Selvedge
 Slack selvedge
 Tight selvedge
 Curled selvedge
 Pulled-in selvedge
 Uneven selvedge
 Cut or Burst selvedge
32. Sizing Patches
33. Loose warp yarn
34. Mending impression
35. Contamination defect
36. Shade variation
83
37. Abrasion
38. COLOUR WARP PATTI
39. Colour weft patti
40. Rubber impration
41. FLUFF STAIN
42. Stoppage mark
43. Handling stain
44. Water mark
45. Crease
46. Colour Dabber
47. oil stain
48. Colored stain
49. Cut selvedge
50. Patches dari
51. Rust stain
52. Moon mark
53. Short width
54. Skew
55. Steamer mark
56. Streakiness
57. Stitch impration
58. Distortion
59. White stain
60. Scroll impration
61. Insect stain
62. Foam Dari
63. Silicate Dari
64. Contamination impration
65. More point
66. Bad appearance
67. Seeding Crease
68. Bundling Crease
69. Non Confirmity
84
70. Roll Cut
71. Seam Cut
72. Guider Crease Dye
73. More Point Counting
74. Sanforis Crease
75. Guider Crease Finishing
76. Haziness
8.4 MACHINERY USED IN FOLDING DEPARTMENT
 Elbit vision system

 ALMAC inspection machine
 ALMAC packing machine
 Panchal
EVS Machine (Elbit Vision System):

EVS machine is a computerized inspection machine in which, the fabric inspected with the
help of photo cameras. The data has already been fed in the computer. It inspects the fabric
according to data and gives penalty points and grade of the fabric. It has six cameras, which
catch the damages. After inspection, editing of damages is done.
Machine particulars:
Table 8.4
MACHINE NAME Elbit Vision System

MAKE Italy
NO. OF CAMERAS 6
NO. OF COMPUTERS 4
SPEED 60 – 70 m per min
NO. OF MACHINE 1
INSPECTION MACHINE:
Table 8.5
85
MACHINE NAME ALMAC
MAKE Baroda (India)
OBJECT Inspection of fabric
NO. OF COMPUTERS 1
NO. OF WORKER 2
NO. OF MACHINE 2
Packing Machine
Table 8.6
MACHINE NAME ALMAC

MAKE Baroda (India)
OBJECT Packing of Fabric
NO. OF MACHINE 2
WEIGHT OF POLY 15 gm
ETHYLENE ROLL
THICKNESS 300 Gauge
PANCHAL MACHINE
Table 8.7
MACHINE NAME Panchal

MAKE Panchal Industries Ltd., Gujarat
OBJECT Inspection of fabric
NO. OF COMPUTERS 1
NO. OF WORKER 1
NO. OF MACHINES 6
86
8.5 GROUPING DEPARTMENT:
The stripes (samples) from different rolls from folding department are matched with the lab
dyed sample (which has been approved by customer) and then the corresponding rolls of
fabric are put into different groups.
E.g. Samples match with lab dyed sample Group no. 1.

Yellowish tone Group no. 2. And so on.
More variation in tone of fabric more will be the no. of groups.
87
9
PRINTING
DEPARTMENT
HOD:
88
9.1 INTRODUCTION
The printing process is also called localized dyeing. Printing involves making colour
impression on the fabric of desired colour designs or motifs.
The printing department is bifurcated into the following:-

 COLOUR STUDIO
 SCREEN MAKING DEPARTMENT
 COLOUR KITCHEN
 PRINTING MACHINE
 AFTER TREATMENT MACHINE
COLOUR STUDIO:-
The colour studio function in the following ways:-
 The colour studio is the section which first receives the designs which may be fabric
cut pieces, printouts or some other form from the customers. These designs are
analyzed, scanned or digital 12”x18” high definition scanners and the digital image
produced is edited as required and final modification is made ready.
 The second way of producing designs is virtue of creating new designs with the help
of special software named “Adobe Photoshop, Best Image”. The artists use their
creativity and create directly digital designs.
 The final designs in either of the above two ways are then bifurcated according to the
number of colours that have been utilized for the designs. The segregation of colours
is done so as to develop separate colour printing screens which together constitute the
designs.
 The final output is a set of digital designs which are stored in a CD and send to the
next department i.e. the screen making department.
89
9.2 SCREEN MAKING DEPARTMENT
The screen making department functions into:-
Screen Degreasing
 The screens here are used generally of mesh sizes – 110.125.155 of Stormac
Pentascreen with length – 1800mm and repeat size – 640mm.
 The screens are first washed using detergent solution so as to remove any dirt/dust
particles, oils, etc. which may otherwise clog the screen pores.
 Finally given spray washings with fresh water, air dried and fitted with supporting
auxiliary rings.
Screen Rounding
The screens after drying are kept in curing chambers at 180c for 1 hr 30 min – 2 hrs for giving
it desired circular shape.
Photo Chemical Coating

 The photo chemical is coated on these dry screens by using sophisticated machine of
Zimmer Co.
 The machine is equipped with two squeeze system and variable coating speeds to
cater to the desired coating thickness.
Photo Chemical Coating Recipe :-

1kg –Stormak photoemulsiion
50 ml –sensitizer (ammonium dichromate)
50-150ml – water (as per viscosity)
The machine follows the up to down stroke for coating. The coating given is very fine and
uniform.
90
Drying
 The wet coating is dried in a special chamber

 Called the clamatiser where drying of photo coat is done at 25-30c for 30 min. The
clamatiser has the provision for heating or cooling by air conditioning
 Finally before the next stage the screens are kept in the A.C rooms for 8 hrs.
Screen Engraving
 Screen engraving is done on a highly sophisticated Computer Scanning Technology.

The machine does not utilize any negatives for screen exposing. The digital images
developed by the studio are received on a CD. This is loaded on the attached PC.
 The selected designs are displayed on the monitor, and, then one by one the segregated
colour design are printed on the screen one by one for separate colour screens.
 The machine is provisioned with a special printing head the function exactly like an
Inkjet printer. The screens with photo coat received from the previous stage are
mounted on the movable horizontal holder taped on sides an inflated so to tighten the
screen foe perfect firm circular shape.
 The printing head uses a special jet black washable ink which is used for printing. The
screen is made to rotate on its axis and while printing head rotates linearly making its
print impression along the screen length.
 After the full desired length is printed with the design the machine also has the
provision to expose the photochemical coat with a high intensity xenon lamp attached
with the head. Exposing time 1.5min – 2min in to and fro direction total time 10 – 15
min fine designs 20 – 25 min for thick designs
91
Developing
The exposed engraved screens are unloaded and dipped in water bath at RT for 2-3 min to
loosen the ink and the photo chemical underneath it.
Finally it is put on a Zimmer developing machine which is equipped with a high intensity
water jet and long bristle brushes which remove the unexposed photo coat along with printing
ink to reveal its unexposed pores.
Air Drying Curing
The wet screens are air dried then put in curing chambers at 180c for 1½ to 2 hrs for final
fixation of the photochemical.
End Ring Fixation
The end rings are internally coated inside with Adelite adhesive and fitted tightly to the screen
on ring fixation machine. The machine has internal coil which is electrically heated inside and
generate high temperature enough to dry the adhesive in just 1 min.
The screens are now finally ready for print.
92
9.3 COLOR KITCHEN
The color kitchen functions as:-

 Developing and making the print paste for the actual printing
Pigment Printing Recipe

Table 9.1
Quantity Ingredients
X-part Pigment
10-20% Binder
1.5-3% Luprint MCl – fixer
2-3% Lutexsal HEF (97%) thickener
5% Urea
1.5% Liquor ammonia
10-15% Kerosene
Y parts Water- to adjust viscosity
100 gm Total
Pigment Discharge Recipe

Table 9.2
Quantity Ingredients
X-part Pigment
10-20% Binder
1.5-3% Luprint MCl – fixer
5-6% Lutexsal HEF (97%) thickener
5% Urea
1.5% Liquor ammonia
10-15% Kerosene
Y parts Water- to adjust viscosity
The same above is recipe with additionally 15-20% Rangolite C and Thickner 5-6%.
93
Reactive Printing Recipe
Table 9.3
QUANTITY INGREDIENTS
3% Sod. Alginate- Thickener
1-1.5% Resist Salt- Mild Oxidizing Agent
3% Sod. Bicarbonate
10-15% Urea- Hygroscopic Agent
100 kg Total
Vat Discharge Recipe

The color kitchen is facilitated with –
--- High speed stirrers
--- Paste filtering machine
--- Flat bearing bed
9.4 PRINTING MACHINE
The department has in its proud possession the Zimmer RSD 666 Austria
Features of the machine:-

94
 V-Notch variable repeat size 640mm-1206mm
 16 color screen head
 Individual screen drive and adjustment
 User- friendly touch screen display panel
 Electromagnetic squeeze system
 High efficiency dryer set at 150 – 160c
AFTERTREATMENT MACHINE
The final treatment which are needed for print development and washing are done on the
following machines:
Steaming machines
Manufacturer - ARIOLI Italy
No. Of Machines- 1
Functions - Steaming/ developing of reactive, vat, discharge prints.
Working speed - 30 mt/ min
Curing
Resin finish required high temperature, which is provided by curing machine. It consists of a
batch roll followed by 3 chambers where air is circulated by fans to provide the required
temperature. Optimum dwell time is needed for the resin finish to polymerize onto the fabric.
Machine Parameter
Made - Bruckner
No. of heating fan – 5
Speed – 4 m/min
Thread length- 180mt
Source of heating- Hot thermal fluid
95
Mode of heating - Radiations
10. CONCLUSION
Our training in NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LTD, FABRIC PROCESSING

UNIT-2, has been a fruitful and eye-opening experience for us.
96
The training has given us a much-wanted feel of working with a big and a
premier organization like the NAHAR GROUP. The people in the company are very good and
always ready to provide a helping hand whenever required.
After doing training at NAHAR FABRICS LTD we felt the importance of training in industry
and its practical applications. When we were studying the theories of different concepts, we
were thinking that how all these would be implemented. But after the training, we learnt that
how all these could be put to good use. It was the result of the training only that we got to see
the objects in real and practical use, which we had only read about and seen as 2-d objects in
books.
During our two weeks training in, NAHAR FABRICS LTD, we got a chance to expose our
self to the industrial culture & work environment. In other words, this TWO WEEKS
training was a learning experience all the way. This all happened due the co-operation of the
staff and the management, who helped us in gaining whatever knowledge we have today
about the production and management.
We came to know about various other management programs related to industry, which are
used for increasing the productivity and for improving the quality of goods. Moreover, the
training aims to bring out better citizens, better technocrats and better diplomats out of us.
At the end, we would like to conclude that the training is an essential part of the technical
educational program. We should always pursue for the theoretical as well as the practical
knowledge, both of which are must for the foundation of a high building.
11. REFERNCES
97

Textile Industry in India Overview

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1.

TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

Industries have a major role to play in the economic development of underdeveloped

Today, the textile industry applies scientific parameters to optimize production so as to

2.1 NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES INCLUDES:

Oswal Woolen Mills Limited.

Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.

Nahar Export Limited.

Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited

Nahar International Limited

Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited

Industrial Area –‘A’, Ludhiana, (Punjab)

S. No. Name Post

INVOICE & DISPATCH

Fig 3.1 Process flow

(1) Role and Responsibility of P.P.C.

(2) Production planning and control: -

HOD: Mr. AMIT WALIA

Bleaching section consists of four sections from gray opening to mercerization.

4th digit - ply of yarn

DIFFERENT SETTINGS OF THE GAS SINGEING M/C:

Starch Dextrin (Insol) Dextrin (Sol.)

Fig 5.2 Degradation of starch

Fig 5.3 PROCESS FLOW OF SINGEING AND DESIZING

Table 5.1: SINGEING PARAMETERS

MACHINE MAKE Osthoff Senge, Germany

Table 5.2: RECIPE FOR ENZYME DESIZING

Table 5.3 DESIZING PARAMETERS

5.4 CONTINUOUS PRE TREATEMENT RANGE

Fig 5.4 PROCESS FLOW IN DESIZE WASHER

FABRIC PRE WETTING AT INJECTA UNIT

Humidity at the in feed end : 60 – 70% or Dry.

Water : 400 l/m.

Maximum water consumption : 4 to 8 ltr per kg.

Table 5.4 Chemical used in Pre Treatment Range:-

H2O2- Universal Bleaching Agent

CBRD- Wetting Agent

INTOX- Sequristing Agent

Lanitol CESE- Stabliser

VERTICAL NEUTRILIZATION EXTRECTA

Table 5.5 RECIPE

5.5 IMPECTA UNIT

Maximum treatment temperature = 60 C.

At in feed end = 60-70%.

Various ways of passing fabric through steamer:

1. Short time steamer with

2. Steamer with single roller bed,

3. Combination steamer with

4. Combination steamer with double roller bed, reaction time = 5-60min

Maximum treatment temperature = 100 C.

At in feed end = 60-70%.

CYLINDER DRYING MACHINE

Steam pressure : 2.5 – 5 kg/sq. cm

Temp of the machine : 120-150 C.

Speed of fabric : 60-65 mt/min (for suiting).

Fig 5.9 PROCESS FLOW IN BENNINGER MERCIRISER

VARIOUS UNITS IN MERCERIZATION:

PRE WETTING SECTION:-

Fabric passes through strong alkali solution with following specifications

Strength of caustic = 29 Be.

NOTE: - 1 Be (Bauus) = 1.4 Tw = 6 gpl = 0.59%.

STENTRING ZONE (chain with pin):-