#thebakefeed

FROM SCRATCH

53
Morning Mufns
Recipes for
Winter Baking

Reinvented
The Essential
Rye Bread

strawberry-balsamic
muffins p. 47

WINTER 2016
$12.99 US FEATURING
Turkish Pastries
Willa Jean in New Orleans
DISPLAY UNTIL MARCH 21, 2016
Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies
FROM SCRATCH
table of contents

9 Products: Winter Kitchen Essentials

Let us show you the tools you need to bake your way 21 Bakery Profile: The World’s Neighborhood Bakery
San Francisco’s legendary Tartine Bakery attracts
through this issue with ease visitors from around the globe

11 On the Shelf: The Bread Basket

Cookbooks that dive deep into the art and science of 27 From the Pantry: Molasses
This thick amber syrup adds depth and sophistication
breads from around the world to your winter baking

13 Expert Q&A: Thomas Keller on Chocolate Chip

Cookies 31 Drops of Sunshine
From clementines to tangerines, citrus season helps
One of life’s simple pleasures redefined by the
mastermind behind Bouchon Bakery cure the mid-winter blues with delicious desserts

17 Perfect Pairing: Happy Hour Hot Chocolate

A one-two chocolate punch from Chicago’s
39 Muffin Magic
Up your morning breakfast routine with these seven
HotChocolate and the queen of cocoa inspired flavor combinations

3 bake from scratch

51 The Essential Rye
Techniques for the perfect loaf with unbeatable
89 For the Love of Cast Iron
Iron skillets are the workhorse of the kitchen and
texture and deep rye flavor perfect for winter baking

61 The Third Shift

At Willa Jean in New Orleans, the bakery magic
101 Turkish Delights
An expat home cook keeps the flavors of her native
happens overnight during Third Shift land alive with sweets and pastries

75 Into the Dark

Sinfully good chocolate recipes—because sometimes
111 Cake Fit for Kings
In January, the French break bread with the
it’s good to be bad traditional Galette des Rois

85 island-style comfort
Our winter escape to find the best handheld meat
113 Our Obsession: Kouign Amann
Why (and where!) we are loving this palm-sized affair
pies in the Caribbean of sweetened dough

winter 2016 4
 #thebakefeed
TAG YOUR BAKINg ADVENTURES on instagram FROM SCRATCH

using #thebakefeed. EDITORIAL

We’ll post our favorites in the next issue. EDITOR - IN - CHIEF BRIAN HART HOFFMAN
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS BROOKE MICHAEL BELL
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While I can’t get enough of Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip and Chunk
Cookies (recipe on page 16), I’m an official member of #teamdough. That’s
right—I always sneak bites of dough and batter. Join the conversation on
social media, and let us know if you’re #teamdough or #teamnodough.
Bake from Scratch is published by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive,
Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. 1-888-411-8995. The cover and contents of Bake from
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Printed in the USA.

5 bake from scratch

 from the editor

cold winter days mean one thing in my house–baking!

This time of year, I crank up my oven and pack it full of a steady rotation of
comforting treats to share with family and friends. From reinvented muffin
flavors that bring excitement to your morning routine to cozy cast-iron desserts,
these pages are full of incredible recipes we can’t wait to share with you.

In this issue, we take you behind the scenes for an exclusive look at all-night
baking with our friends at Willa Jean in New Orleans. “The Third Shift” (page
61), showcases the talented Lisa White and Kelly Fields as they craft perfect
pastries, breads, and confections. The magic happens overnight so their bakery
shelves can be filled at first light.

We are thrilled for you to be holding our second issue in your hands.
Thank you for joining us on this baking adventure! Be sure to use
#thebakefeed as you bake your way through this issue and enjoy
every delicious moment of winter.

Brian Hart Hoffman

Editor-in-Chief

Follow us for daily baking inspiration.

Bake from Scratch @thebakefeed @thebakefeed

contributors
Daniel Schumacher
Daniel, an enthusiastic eater and seasoned home
cook, is constantly on the lookout for unique
stories, delicious recipes, and food trucks. In this
issue of Bake from Scratch, we sent him to join the
crew at Willa Jean bakery in New Orleans for their
all-night third shift (page 61). Daniel began his
career as a food writer and editor in New York City
before moving South. For more than three years,
he has lived in New Orleans serving as the editor
of Louisiana Cookin’, a Hoffman Media magazine
and the only national publication devoted to
true connoisseurs of Louisiana’s unique culture,
cuisine, and travel destinations.
Go-to hot toddy: “I stick pretty closely to the
classic hot toddy recipe, though I don’t use much
honey, and depending on my mood I’ll add a little
extra Elijah Craig bourbon.”
Favorite order at Willa Jean: “The crab roll. Much
like a Maine lobster roll, Willa Jean’s Hot Buttered
Crab Sandwich is pure, simple, and decadent: no
fillers, no nonsense, just crab, butter, some garlic,
and pickled onions on a rich, flaky bun.”
John Kessler
John currently lives and writes in Chicago. In this
issue, he dove deep into the rich, amber world of
molasses (page 27) to share the sticky truth about
that pantry staple. He recently ended an 18-year
career at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, where he
wrote about food and served as the newspaper’s
dining critic. His writing has received many awards,
including the National Headliner Award and four
citations from the James Beard Foundation. He
currently serves as chairman of the James Beard
Foundation’s journalism awards committee.
7 bake from scratch
His essays, columns, and food features have been
anthologized 10 times in Best Food Writing, and
he recently passed first-level certification by the
Court of Master Sommeliers.
Go-to hot toddy: “I love Scotch in toddies—
mixing it with lemon, honey, water, or, better,
with water and a spoonful of yuja-cha, a kind of
yuzu marmalade meant to be mixed with hot
water as a citron tea base that you can get in any
Korean market.”
Favorite dessert made with molasses: “For me,
there’s nothing better than warm gingerbread
with lemon curd. Seriously: best dessert ever.”
Stephen Devries
Stephen is a food and travel photographer who
loves the collaborative nature of food photography
and working with stylists to create a beautiful
image. At the same time, he thrives on a sense of
independent adventure and loves the exploration
required for travel assignments. If he’s not behind
the camera, you can likely find him traveling with
his wife or out on the soccer field.
Go-to hot toddy: “I’m not a huge fan of the hot
toddy, but bourbon is my favorite spirit. Give me a
well-made Old Fashioned (no cherries, please) or
a pour of Elmer T. Lee, served neat, and you have
my go-to feel-good libation.”
Nathan Carrabba
Nathan, born and raised in Seattle, is a globetrotting
food stylist who has worked with Emeril Legasse,
Sasquatch Books, and Oxmoor House. For this
issue, we enlisted him to bring out the beauty of
Turkish pastries and desserts (page 101). Before
he got into food styling, Nathan lived in Chicago,
where he attended school to learn how to make
violins. Always on the move, he plans to spend
most of next year in Thailand.
Go-to hot toddy: “Calvados bourbon hot toddy—
it’s great hot with lemon juice and top quality
cider. Rather than use exact measurements, I just
eyeball it.”
Brooke Morton
Brooke is a freelance writer and editor based in
Winter Park, Florida. “I’m no Anthony Bourdain,
but I won’t pass up a weird food I haven’t tried
before,” says Brooke, whose on-assignment
travels have led her to sample everything from
cricket tacos to grouper eyeballs. On page 85, she
shares her picks for the best meat patties in the
Caribbean. She contributes regularly to Islands,
Caribbean Travel + Life, and Sport Diver, traveling
often to the Caribbean, especially to the U.S.
Virgin Islands where she lived after college.
When not reliving island adventures for print
stories, she’s in the kitchen, tinkering. Her latest
obsession: dal. “If I keep messing up, there’s
nothing left to do but buy a ticket to India.”
Go-to hot toddy: “I’m not a big drinker, but I do
have a winter elixir that I swear by: Brew a mug of
echinacea tea, then add the juice of two lemons
and an orange, and a small knob of ginger, plus
a couple dashes of cayenne pepper and maple
syrup. It may sound unappetizing, but it clears
the sinuses better than any rum-filled cocktail.”
 #thebakefeed

recipe index on the cover

Strawberry-Balsamic
Muffins
FROM SCRATCH

53 Recipes for
Winter Baking
BREAD page 47
Perfect Caribbean day of eating: “I’d follow Morning /WHƂPU
Reinvented
Marbled Rye Bread 60 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
The Essential
the smell of curry to whatever’s cooking on the STEPHEN DEVRIES Rye Bread

Onion Twist Bread 99 RECIPE DEVELOPMENT

grill or in a pot. I’d fill up on a roti and several aw y a am

Rye Sandwich Bread 54 AND STYLING BY m n p 47

MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
barbecue ribs if available. Then I’d nap in a FEATURING

STYLING BY Turkish Pastries

Willa Jean in New Orleans

hammock beachside before dressing up to dine BARS AND COOKIES MARY BETH JONES Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies

al fresco somewhere that serves lobster. Ideally Chocolate Chip and Chunk
there’d be live music, so I’d get up to dance in Cookies 16
Chocolate-Espresso Cookies 74 Cherry Sweet Rolls 95
between courses so as not to overindulge too
Dream Bars 19 Cinnamon Rolls 73
much. I’d want to rise early the next day to do
Ginger and Peanut Butter Grapefruit Soufflés with Grapefruit
it all again!” Brownies 82 Crème Anglaise 37
Linzer Cookies with Meyer Lemon Hot Chocolate 18
Curd 37 Hot Chocolate Grog 18
Malbec Fig Brownies 82 Meyer Lemon Curd 37
One-Pound Chocolate Brownies 82 Noah’s Pudding 108
Raspberry Brownies 82 Pots de Crème 81
Rye Bread Pudding with Pastrami
Tanner Latham CAKES and Leeks 56
An award-winning travel writer, radio reporter, Rye Crisps 56
Blood Orange Loaf Cake 34
and multimedia storyteller, Tanner has written Cardamom Flourless Chocolate Cake 81 Strawberry-Apple Cobbler 96
about everything from cinderblock barbecue Clementine-Almond Cake 34 Tangerine Madeleines 34
joints to luxurious, five-star resorts. We sent Nejla’s Yogurt Dessert 108
him to Tartine to get the scoop on one of San Pear-Almond Cake 99 MUFFINS
Pecan Crumble Coffee Cake 95 Bacon Cheddar Poppy Seed
Francisco’s most iconic bakeries (page 21). His
Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake 95 Muffins 50
stories have aired on NPR and have appeared in
Banana Chocolate Espresso Swirl
Coastal Living, Country Living, and other publications. FROSTINGS, GARNISHES, AND Muffins 50
He lives in the Bay Area of Northern California, GLAZES Beet and Goat Cheese Muffins
where, in his spare time, he hosts Authentic US, a Black Sesame Streusel 50 with Orange Streusel 44
nationally distributed storytelling podcast that Blood Orange Glaze 34 Blueberry-Cornmeal Muffins
tells extraordinary stories of ordinary people. Blood Orange Simple Syrup 34 with Thyme Glaze 49
Candied Clementines 34 Cinnamon Swirl Muffins with
Listen at AuthenticUsStories.com.
Chocolate Whipped Cream 81 Pecans 44
Go-to hot toddy: “Four Roses with lemon and a Crumb Topping 95 Matcha-Almond Muffins with Black
drop of honey (more whiskey, less hot water).” Grapefruit Crème Anglaise 37 Sesame Streusel 49
Orange Streusel 44 Strawberry-Balsamic Muffins 47
Perfect Visit to Tartine: “Mid-afternoon on a Thyme Glaze 49
warm-for-San Francisco (upper 70s) Sunday. The Thyme Syrup 49 PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS
line would be a challenge, but I’d strategically Baklava 110
score one of the outside tables lining 18th Street. MISCELLANEOUS Chocolate Éclairs 81
Balsamic Reduction 47 Chocolate Hand Pies 78
I’d consume my thick newspaper (New York Times)
Beet Purée 44 Poğaça 108
page by page and my frangipane tart bite by bite.”

resources
On the Shelf The Essential Rye For the Love of Cast Iron Cake Fit for Kings
Pages 11-12 Pages 51-60 Pages 89-100 Pages 111-112
Threshold large marble Kitchen apron in bark by Cast-iron wedge pan and Linen kitchen apron in grey
house available at Target, Studio Patró, 415-775- skillets by Lodge, 423- and natural French-stripe
target.com. 3432, studiopatro.com. 837-7181, lodgemfg.com. linen kitchen towel available
at Sur La Table, 800-243-
0852, surlatable.com.

winter 2016 8
products
winter kitchen
essentials

E
From citrus souffles to loaf breads, the recipes in this issue are a lot
easier with the right tools. Here are some of our staff picks to help
you cook your way through this issue of Bake From Scratch.
1. Microplane Grater-Zester without Grip
This handy tool makes fast work of all things citrus, perfect for the recipes in
“Drops of Sunshine” (page 31). We prefer the model sans handgrip, as it’s easy
to position atop a bowl.
$9.95; surlatable.com

2. Nonstick Madeleine Pan

For our delicate Tangerine Madeleines (page 34), we turned to this shell-
shaped French pan. We like the tinned steel for even baking and nonstick
finish for easy release.
$25; williams-sonoma.com

3. Williams-Sonoma Traditionaltouch Pullman Loaf Pan

We love to use a Pullman loaf pan on sandwich breads because it turns out
nice sharp corners and gives homemade loaves a professional look. Try it with
our Rye Sandwich Bread (page 54).
$29.95; williams-sonoma.com

4. Ateco Offset Spatula

An offset spatula is a baker’s secret weapon. It makes easy work of frosting
cakes, leveling batter in pans, and smearing filling for our cast-iron baked
Cherry Sweet Rolls (page 95).
$3.20-6.20; goldaskitchen.com

5. Ateco Natural Boar Bristle Round Pastry Brush

There’s no denying the versatility of a good pastry brush. We use it for
everything from layering phyllo for Baklava (page 110) to varnishing Chocolate
Hand Pies (page 78) with egg wash.
$9.95-$15; surlatable.com

6. All-Clad 2-Quart Sauce Pan with Porcelain Double Boiler D

When it comes to melting chocolate (like for our One-Pound Chocolate
Brownies, page 82), using a double boiler can mean the difference between
gooey sweetness and a hot mess.
$180; all-clad.com b
on the shelf

the
BREAD
basket

This winter we’re dreaming of

warm loaves fresh from the
oven.These five books dive deep
into the art— and science— of
breads from around the world.

11 bake from scratch

The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook
by Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez and the bakers of Hot Bread Kitchen
In New York City, the bakers of the Hot Bread Kitchen line the shelves with braided
challah, baguettes, Mexican conchas, and chewy Indian naan. The variety of breads
offered is as diverse as the ladies who bake the loaves. Part of that might be attributed to
the rich multinational community found in the city. But truthfully, all of the recipes
come from the bakers’ homelands. Hot Bread Kitchen, part bakery, part training facility,
works with immigrant women to teach them the essential skills to make it in the highly
competitive culinary field. The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal Baking from Around the World
(Clarkson Potter) shares the stories of these dynamic women and the essential methods
to create this global smorgasbord at home.
A Passion for Bread
By Lionel Vatinet
Master Baker Lionel Vatinet is a dough genius. Plain and simple. At his unassuming
bakery in Cary, North Carolina, this French native produces swoon-worthy boules,
baguettes, and beyond. In his book, A Passion for Bread: Lessons from a Master Baker (Little,
Brown and Company), he uses step-by-step photos to guide readers through
shaping, folding, scoring, and filling loaves, from classic sourdough to baguettes
stuffed with sausage and mozzarella. Particularly helpful for novice bread bakers are
his seven key steps to great bread, such as basics on proper measuring and easy-to-
follow explanations of fermentation.
Making Dough
by Russel van Kraayenburg
Dough lies at the heart of baking. And the trick to good dough is all about getting
ingredients in the right proportions. Baking is a science, after all—it boils down to the
relationship between flour, butter, water, sugar, and eggs. In Making Dough: Recipes and
Ratios for Perfect Pastries (Quirk Books), Russell van Kraayenburg, founder of the award-
winning blog Chasing Delicious, lays out the secrets to mastering 12 essential pastry
doughs, including biscuits, scones, brioche, and croissants. We love the handy chart that
translates what you can make once you’ve mastered the basic doughs. For example, once
you’ve gotten the knack of shortcrust, you can broaden your repertoire to tarts, tartlets,
pop tarts, and even cookies.
The New Artisan Bread
in Five Minutes a Day
by Jeff Hertzberg, M.D., and Zoë François
Best-selling authors Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François
went back into the kitchen to revamp and update their
now-classic Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day. Packed with
tips and techniques and 100 how-to photos, The New
Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day (Thomas Dunne Books/
St. Martin’s Press) demonstrates how home cooks can
achieve bakery-worthy creations with just five minutes
of active preparation time. New to this edition is a whole
section dedicated to gluten-free baking, from sandwich
loaves to pizza to sweet brioche.
Bien Cuit:
The Art of Bread
by Zachary Golper and Peter Kaminsky
Deep in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill neighborhood, Zachary
Golper lives in a flurry of flour at his beloved Bien
Cuit bakery. His signature style relies on long, cold
fermentation, a process that helps the bread develop deep,
complex flavors and a thick crust the color of mahogany.
For his first cookbook, Bien Cuit: The Art of Bread, he teams
up with noted food critic and author Peter Kaminsky. In
addition to delivering recipes for classic Pullman loaves,
Bourbon Bread, Port-Fig Rolls, and sweet and savory
quick breads, this gorgeous photo-packed tome covers
essentials on grains and flours (and how different varieties
affect a recipe), necessary equipment, and the underlying
alchemy of bread. b
expert q & a

THOMAS KELLER ON
CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
 No matter who you are, homemade chocolate chip cookies are the great equalizer.
We spoke with chef Thomas Keller, one of the most acclaimed and accomplished chefs
in the world. to get his favorite recipe and find out what separates a good cookie from a great one.
Because let’s be honest, we all know there’s no such thing as a bad chocolate chip cookie.

What is the secret to a great chocolate chip cookie? more molasses, which you get from a higher ratio of brown sugar. Crispier
Superior chocolate makes a chocolate chip cookie great. Buy the best quality cookies are obtained with a lower ratio of brown sugar.
ingredients you can afford—that is the first step to achieving your best
cookie possible. Chocolate chip cookies are best eaten .
10-15 minutes out of the oven!
What chocolate is best?
At Bouchon Bakery, we use Guittard Chocolate Company’s 72% morsels My favorite chocolate chip cookie from childhood was .
and chunks for our Chocolate Chip and Chunk Cookies because it fits our Classic Toll House.
style and achieves the flavor profile we want, all from a local purveyor. Their
72% has a high cacao content, so it’s more acidic and really showcases the Crunchy or gooey?
flavor of the cacao amongst the rest of the ingredients. I prefer a crunchy exterior with a soft and chewy center, just like we make
them at our bakery.
What flour do you prefer when baking cookies?
We use Harvest King All-Purpose Flour at Bouchon Bakery because their Bite-sized or oversized?
product is consistent all year long at each of our locations—Yountville, Las Oversized. One bite is not enough!
Vegas, New York, and Beverly Hills. This is important because the climate in
each of these markets is different, and humidity can affect the performance Favorite store-bought chocolate chip cookie?
of your dry ingredients. For anyone with a gluten allergy, Cup4Cup gluten- I don’t buy them.
free flour is a great substitute for all-purpose flour.
Best drink with a chocolate chip cookie?
What’s your trick for getting gooier or crispier cookies? A glass of ice-cold milk.
You can play with the ratio of brown sugar. For a chewy cookie you want

winter 2016 14
 thomas keller on his chocolate chip and chUnk cookies
Bouchon Bakery is well known for its cookies. We love our cookies, and we make them big. The chocolate chunk and chip recipe
was one of our first. In most cooking or baking, varying textures is important, and cookies are no different. This is why we use both
chocolate chunks and chocolate chips, which behave differently in the dough. The chunks melt, but the chips don’t.

I’ve always believed that when you have a special, expensive ingredient—truffles, for instance, or foie gras—it’s important to offer
it in abundance so that people know what the fuss is about. Chocolate falls into that category here—these cookies are packed with
chocolate. We use plenty of brown sugar as well as molasses for a deep, rich flavor. If you like nuts in your cookies, feel free to add them
instead of either the chocolate chunks or the chocolate chips.
 CHOCOLATE CHIP
and chunk COOKIES
Makes 6 cookies, 4 inches each
1½ cups plus 3 tablespoons (238 grams) all-purpose
flour
½ teaspoon (2.3 grams) baking soda
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (134 grams) lightly packed
dark brown sugar
1¾ teaspoons (12 grams) unsulphured blackstrap
molasses
½ cup plus 1 teaspoon (104 grams) granulated sugar
⅔ cup (107 grams) ⅜-inch chunks 70% to 72%
chocolate
Scant ½ cup (107 grams) chocolate chips
5.9 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter, at room
temperature
3 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons (60 grams) eggs
You’ll need a 2½-inch (#10) ice cream scoop. For this
recipe, we use Valrhona Guanaja 70% or Guittard 72%
chocolate. Cookies baked in a convection oven will have
a more even color and will not spread as much as those
baked in a standard oven.
1. Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking
soda. Add the salt, and whisk together. Place the dark
brown sugar in a small bowl, and stir in the molasses and
granulated sugar, breaking up any lumps; the mixture will
not be completely smooth.
2. Place the chocolate chunks in a strainer, and tap the
side to remove any powdered chocolate, which would
cloud the cookies. Mix with the chocolate chips.
3. Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment. Turn to medium-low speed, and
cream the butter, warming the bowl if needed, until it is
the consistency of mayonnaise and holds a peak when
the paddle is lifted. Add the molasses mixture, and mix
for 3 to 4 minutes, until fluffy. Scrape down the sides and
bottom of the bowl. Add the eggs, and mix on low speed
for 15 to 30 seconds, until just combined. Scrape the
bowl again. The mixture may look broken, but that is fine
Recipe and photos excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012. Photography by Deborah Jones.
(overwhipping the eggs could cause the cookies to
expand too much during baking and then deflate).
4. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on
low speed for 15 to 30 seconds after each, or until just
combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate
any dry ingredients that have settled there. Add the
chocolates, and pulse on low speed about 10 times to
combine. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
5. Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven,
and preheat the oven to 325°F (convection or standard). Line
two sheet pans with Silpats or parchment paper.
6. Using the ice cream scoop, divide the dough into 6
equal portions (150 grams each). Roll each one into a
ball between the palms of your hands. (The dough can be
shaped in advance; see Note.)
7. The cookies are very large; bake only 3 on each pan.
With a short end of the pan toward you, place one cookie
in the upper left corner, one in the lower left corner, and
the third one in the center, toward the right side of the
pan. Bring the dough to room temperature before baking.
8. Bake until golden brown, 14 to 16 minutes in a
convection oven, 18 to 20 minutes in a standard oven,
reversing the positions of the pans halfway through
baking. Set the pans on a cooling rack, and cool for 5 to
10 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the rack to cool
completely.
The cookies are best the day they are baked, but they can
be stored in a covered container for up to 3 days.
Note on Advance Preparation: The shaped dough can be
refrigerated for up to 2 days before baking. For longer
storage, freeze the dough in a covered container or a
plastic bag for up to 1 month; the day before baking, place
the cookies on a lined baking sheet, and defrost in the
refrigerator overnight. Bring to room temperature before
baking.
For Smaller Cookies: Divide the dough into 12 equal
portions (75 grams each). Bake for 12 to 14 minutes in a
convection oven, 16 to 18 minutes in a standard oven. b
winter 2016 16
 perfect pairing

HAPPY HOUR
Hot Chocolate
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
FOOD STYLING BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
ANNA THEOKTISTO

Warm up with a one-two

chocolate punch from
Chicago’s queen of cocoa

When it’s cold and blustery outside, Chicagoans know

the best place to retreat is to HotChocolate, the dessert
bar of sugar maven and renowned pastry chef Mindy
Segal. Her signature hot chocolate concoctions and
decadent collection of sweets have wooed customers
and critics alike, earning her perennial nods from
Time Out Chicago, Chicago magazine, and the James
Beard Foundation. Variations range from the Mexican
(infused with cinnamon and cayenne) to Pumpkin
Spice (white and milk chocolate with pumpkin spices)
to Half & Half (equal parts espresso and dark hot
chocolate), and they’re all guaranteed to shake off the
winter blues. Order them as-is, or give them an adult
twist with a sidecar of Sambuca or Amaretto. Here,
Mindy shares her recipe for Hot Chocolate Grog, a
rich and creamy hot cocoa blended with brandy and
PRO TIP: Place marshmallows
orange liqueur that’s guaranteed to warm you all the on a long skewer. Carefully
way down to your toes. Pair it with her Dream Bars, toast them using a pastry
simple, buttery bars topped with shards of chocolate torch, or place under oven
and meringue, for the perfect winter fix. broiler for a few seconds until
lightly browned.

17 bake from scratch

HOT CHOCOLATE GROG
Makes 2 cocktails
Mindy Segal always adds a toasted marshmallow
when serving this cocktail at her restaurant. To
make this recipe with her signature ingredients,
visit hotchocolatechicago.com to order her hot
chocolate mix and marshmallows.
1 chai tea bag
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened
condensed milk
1½ cups Hot Chocolate (recipe follows)
¼ cup Spanish brandy, such as Senor Lustau
1940 Solera
2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as
Mandarine Napoleon
Sweetened whipped cream
Garnish: toasted marshmallows
1. In a small saucepan, steep chai tea bag in
sweetened condensed milk over low heat. Let
simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
2. In another saucepan, heat Hot Chocolate
over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until
mixture is heated through.
3. Divide brandy and orange liqueur between
2 serving glasses. Add half Hot Chocolate and
half chai milk mixture to each glass, stirring to
combine. Top with whipped cream, and garnish
with a toasted marshmallow, if desired.
Hot Chocolate
Makes 2 servings
½ cup whole milk
½ cup heavy whipping cream
¾ cup Mindy’s HotChocolate Blend
Sweetened whipped cream
Marshmallows
1. In a small saucepan, bring milk and cream to a boil over
medium heat. Add Mindy’s HotChocolate Blend to milk
mixture, and turn heat off. Let steep for 1 minute. Whisk
until well blended. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, if
desired.
2. Serve hot, over ice, or with a shot of your favorite liquor.
Top with whipped cream or a marshmallow, if desired.
HOT CHOCOLATE SUPPLIES
You can buy Mindy Segal’s proprietary blend of
French and Belgian chocolate mix ($22) and her
homemade marshmallows ($6 for 1 dozen) available
September through April at hotchocolatechicago.com.
 DREAM BARS
Makes 30
Mindy has been making these bars since high school, when she got the
recipe from her mother—who got it from her friend, Phyllis Grossman. She’s
made them with everything from milk chocolate to fudge, but swears by the
bittersweet chocolate version. Let your sweet tooth proceed with caution:
Mindy warns that these buttery bars are highly addictive.
1 (4-ounce) 64% to 66% cacao bittersweet chocolate bar
(113 grams), melted
1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup (93 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 extra-large eggs, room temperature, separated
2 cups (280 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (212 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar
1. Invert a baking sheet, and spray with cooking spray. Line top with
parchment paper. With an offset spatula, spread melted chocolate evenly
across parchment. Place baking sheet in the freezer until firm, about 30
minutes.
2. Lightly coat a quarter sheet or 13x9-inch pan or glass baking dish with
cooking spray, and line with parchment paper, leaving 1 inch of overhang
on long sides.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
butter at medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds. Add granulated sugar, and
beat until mixture is aerated, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape sides and bottom of
bowl with a rubber spatula to bring batter together.
4. Add 1 tablespoon water and vanilla to egg yolks. Add egg yolks to
butter mixture, one at a time, beating until batter resembles cottage
cheese, about 5 seconds per yolk. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl with
a rubber spatula to bring batter together. Beat at medium speed for 20
to 30 seconds to make nearly homogeneous.
5. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder,
and salt.
6. Add flour mixture to butter mixture, and beat at low speed until dough
just comes together but still looks shaggy, about 30 seconds. Do not
overmix. Remove bowl from stand mixer. With a plastic bench scraper,
bring dough completely together by hand.
7. Transfer dough to prepared pan. Using a rubber spatula and then your
fingertips, press dough into corners of the pan, and smooth the surface.
Remove chocolate from the freezer, and break it up into shards. Scatter
chocolate shards across the surface of the dough, and then press into
the dough. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down through the plastic to
smooth down the top. (You can also use a pastry roller to even out the
surface.) Refrigerate until dough is set, at least 20 minutes or overnight.
(If refrigerating dough overnight, refrigerate the egg whites as well,
letting them come to room temperature before proceeding with the
meringue.)
8. Preheat oven to 350°.
9. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg
whites and a pinch of kosher salt at medium speed until frothy, about 45
seconds. Add brown sugar, and beat at medium-high speed until shiny
peaks form and the meringue holds its shape, 2 to 3 minutes. Spread
meringue evenly over chilled dough.
10. Bake until meringue resembles a lightly toasted marshmallow, 23
to 25 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. It will start to
crack on the sides but should still be slightly soft in the center, and the
shortbread should be cooked through but still pale—not golden brown.
(Do not overbake, or the shortbread will be too crumbly to cut.) Let cool
completely in pan. Once cool, refrigerate until chilled.
11. Using parchment as handles, lift bars out of pan, and transfer to a
cutting board. Cut bars lengthwise into 3 strips. Cut bars crosswise into
10 strips to make small, rectangular bars. Serve bars at
room temperature. Bars can be refrigerated in an
airtight container for up to 5 days.

ON THE BAR CART

Mindy prefers to use Señor Lustau 1940 Solara brandy and Mandarine Napoléon liqueur in her Hot Chocolate
Grog. But if you can't find those brands, these widely available substitutes work well.

HENNESSY V.S. COGNAC COINTREAU

Intense and fruity with oaky notes, the result of eaux
de vie matured in French oak casks. On the tongue,
you might pick up hints of grilled almonds and fresh
grapes.
MARTELL V.S. COGNAC
Created over 150 years ago, a cognac known for rich
fruit and spice with notes of citrus and fresh pear. It’s
consumed just as frequently neat as it is in cocktails.
A Triple-Sec that blends bitter and sweet orange peels.
It was created by brothers Edouard-Jean and Adolphe
Cointreau at their Angers, France, distillery in 1875.
GRAND MARNIER
A blend of French cognacs and wild tropical oranges
from the Caribbean. Though it’s often used to spike hot
chocolate or coffee, this orange liqueur is frequently
drunk neat or on the rocks as a digestif. b

19 bake from scratch

bakery prole

THE WORLD’S
neighborhood
BAKERY
BY TANNER LATHAM

San Francisco’s Tartine

Bakery attracts people from
all across the globe while
maintaining the loyalty of those
from right around the corner.
 Tartine Bakery has every right to be pretentious.
It stands as one of the most famous and iconic bakeries in the
country, always shortlisted among top culinary destinations
in San Francisco. Up to 1,200 people a day make pilgrimages
to The Mission neighborhood to join a queue that spills from
the 800-square-foot retail area and hems the building’s edge.
Its owners, married couple Elisabeth (Liz) Prueitt and Chad
Robertson, complement each other as pastry chef and baker,
respectively, building an unbelievably efficient and successful
business that perfectly plays to the best of each one’s strengths.
Many rate Chad’s recipe for Country Sourdough Bread—with
its tangy, chewy, moist interior shielded by a hardy, blistered
crust—as the epitome of the form. Liz’s plate-sized frangipane
croissants—their dark brown exteriors flaking away to reveal
Photos courtesy Tartine Bakery and Tartine Bread (Chronicle Books, 2010), photos by Eric Wolfinger.
a buttery layered pocket for almond cream—often sell out in
a matter of hours. A few years into the life of the bakery, Liz
and Chad applied their magic to Bar Tartine, an intimate place
they opened around the corner that satiated their desire to
serve more savory items, such as beef tartare on toast. (In 2015,
the couple sold Bar Tartine to its current executive chefs, Nick
Balla and Cortney Burns.) The Tartine brand enjoys countless
accolades, ranging from regular praise in the San Francisco Chronicle
to a pair of highly coveted James Beard awards, including one for
Outstanding Pastry Chef. In total, the team has published three
popular cookbooks—all fit for coffee table display—and Tartine
Bread, the follow up to Tartine, has become a modern manual for
at-home bread makers.
winter 2016 22
 Yes, amid the swell of reverential praise from fierce foodies
and top culinary publications alike, Tartine Bakery has
earned the right to posture as a jewel box, a place that is
precious and exclusive. Thankfully, it has intentionally
chosen to remind you that it is first and foremost a bakery,
the kind you might find in your own neighborhood.

You join the constant crowd of customers shuffling over the

worn wooden floor, and eye potential places to sit among
the orphaned chairs that rest against walls, float in the
middle of the room, or are tucked tightly into the corners
of the half dozen indoor tables. When you peer over the
counter, through the stacked racks of industrial-sized, glass-
fronted refrigerated cases, you see the frenetic choreography
of pastry chefs and bakers in jeans, T-shirts, and backward
caps. When you stare into the nondescript display case, you
find work-of-art pastries—the frangipane tart, for example,
baked with almond cream filling and seasonal fruit, posing as
the delicious alternative to the aforementioned croissant—
bathed in a familiar, comfortable fluorescent glow.

23 bake from scratch

 " No matter what is
happening in the world,
people still like to
have their cup of
coffee and a treat.”
— Liz Prueitt
tartine
timeline
1966
Liz’s mother, Carol, a talented home
cook and baker, gives her three-year-
old daughter an Easy Bake Oven
that seeds a lifelong passion.
1990-1993
Liz and Chad meet at the Culinary Institute
of America in Hyde Park, New York, and July 2002
are fatefully paired as classroom partners. Liz and Chad open Tartine Bakery in The Mission District
After graduation, Liz works at Montrachet in of San Francisco on a shoestring budget. It quickly gains
NYC, and Chad finds his mentor Richard a stellar reputation, spurred by San Francisco Magazine
Bourdon at Berkshire Mountain Bakery naming Liz Pastry Chef of the Year.
in Massachusetts. They wed soon after
graduation.

1995—2000
The couple moves to
1995 California’s Bay Area
The couple spends the year traveling throughout and open Bay Village
France, working in esteemed bakeries, such Bakery in Point Reyes
as Boulangerie Artisinale des Maures and Station. Their work
Boulangerie Savoyarde, in Provence and Savoie catches the attention of
and immersing themselves in traditional baking notable food influencers
methods and classical French techniques. including Alice Waters.

“It is a gathering place,” says Liz, recalling how people flock to the bakery
when they are celebrating, or even grieving. These days, the warranted
acclaim usually renders Tartine Bakery more chaotic than quiet, yet the
neighbors still view it as vital to their daily routine. It is a comforting
touchstone. “No matter what is happening in the world, people still like to
have their cup of coffee and a treat.”

Recently, Tartine announced the opening of The Manufactory, a café in the

Heath Ceramics space in San Francisco’s Mission District. This new venture
will showcase Liz’s cookies, ice cream, and preserves (available for sale in the
in-house retail larder), and will house an all-day eatery with a wood-burning
pizza oven and a bakery that sells Tartine’s signature loaves and pastries.
Loyalists whisper skepticism, and fear that Tartine will lose its identity and the
bread and pastry quality will suffer. But Liz promises that she and Chad will
both be closely involved in the business. She says that nothing will slip. They
will still bake everything fresh daily with the discipline and precision that has
always been the cornerstone of their success.

We have every reason to believe her. Fifteen years into its storied existence,
Tartine still fits the genuine artisan character that permeates the food scene
in this city. It is an accessible place fully devoted to its craft and to feeding its
community. b

25 bake from scratch

 2008
Liz and Chad win
the James Beard Spring 2016
Foundation Award Tartine’s The Manufactory is scheduled to
for Outstanding open as a café and food production space
Pastry Chef. to showcase Liz’s preserves, cookies, and
soft-serve ice cream.

2005
The couple opens Bar Tartine, a
full-service restaurant with a menu that
evolves to feature Hungarian, Northern
European, and Asian influences.
2006
Chronicle Books publishes Tartine,
a cookbook which wins a James
Beard Foundation Award for
photography. (Follow-up successes
include Tartine Bread in 2010 and
2013’s Tartine Book No. 3.)

winter 2016 26
from the pantry
From cookies to bread,
this thick amber liquid gives
extra depth to baked goods.
Consider it the liquid gold of
your winter pantry.
BY JOHN KESSLER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

The molasses we find on the grocer’s shelf comes to us as an emissary from

a long-ago time. We pour this mahogany treacle, the by-product of sugar
refining, from bottles depicting an Old South Plantation, Brer Rabbit, or a
white-haired grandma. Indeed, we use molasses primarily for vintage recipes.
Think baked beans, shoofly pie, and gingersnaps.

Just remember: Grandma was young once, and molasses must have been
the salted caramel of her day—sweet and appealingly bitter, with a racy
complexity.

It amps up the flavors of baking, encouraging spoonfuls of warm spices—

clove, cinnamon, nutmeg—rather than sprinkles. It has a particular affinity
for the peppery bite of ginger.

Because molasses is highly acidic (indeed, much of the nation’s output goes
into the production of citric acid), bakers didn’t need any sour milk, vinegar,
or any chemical-tasting cream of tartar or baking powder to leaven their
gingerbread. Just a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda did the trick.

More than other sweeteners, molasses literally sucks moisture out of the
air. That is why dense brown bread has an incomparably tender crumb, and
cookies made with molasses come off the cooling rack both chewy and snappy,
a magical texture thrumming with sugar and spice.

You should make molasses cookies, the easiest and most gratifying recipe you
can find, and soon you will be tinkering endlessly with the spices, the ratios,
and the cooking times until the recipe is yours. You will find the right spicy
bite, the right sugary gloss, the right point on the texture spectrum. But first
you need the right molasses.
 Dark molasses comes after the second boiling and extraction of sugar. Now we can
taste that deep sourness, that metallic twang, and that concentrated essence that
spices so readily fold into. If you like bitter flavors, you will lick some off your finger
and then immediately want another taste.

After a third boiling and extraction, we have blackstrap molasses, which, true to its
name, is a black hole of intensity. (“Strap” comes from the Dutch word “stroop”
for syrup.) It tastes like a reduction of Fernet-Branca, espresso, dirt, and pennies.
Loaded with iron, calcium, magnesium, and a host of other minerals and nutrients,
it serves as a fine dietary supplement, which is why people breathe deeply and force
down spoonfuls. When used as a cooking ingredient, it must be added sparingly.

Plantation Blackstrap Molasses
Intense with a burnt, lingering finish.
alliedoldenglish.com
Whichever molasses you choose, make sure to buy one labeled unsulphured,
meaning that it hasn’t been treated with a flavor-altering preservative.
Then you will have a new ingredient in your baking pantry, one waiting to be
rediscovered not only for its old-fashioned virtues but also for its challenging,
sophisticated flavor. You’ll realize Grandma kind of had it going on.

Brer Rabbit Full

Flavor Molasses
Bittersweet with a
coffee flavor. Works well
Steen’s Dark Molasses in spice-heavy baking.
brerrabbit.com
Robust and bitter, with an
almost burnt flavor. Great
for baked beans.
steensyrup.com

29 bake from scratch

molasses 101
What It Is
Molasses is the by-product of refining sugar cane or beets.
After the pure sucrose is extracted, the golden syrup remains.

Grades of Molasses Syrupy Alternatives

LIGHT
Pours like corn syrup, flickers
gold when the light catches
it, and is more sweet than
bitter. Good as a cane syrup
substitute and for baking.
(Also labeled: “sweet,”
“original,” or “mild.”)
DARK
Viscous like honey but
much darker. It is less sweet,
more bitter, and peppery in
a way that works well with
spices—ideal for baking. (Also
labeled: “full flavor” or simply
“molasses.”)
BLACKSTRAP
The darkest and most bitter
grade of molasses; often used
as a nutritional supplement
and home remedy for joint
pain. You can bake with it (it
adds a lot of color), but you’ll
need to add more sugar to
the recipe.
MAPLE SYRUP
The boiled-down essence of maple tree sap;
rich and distinctive.
CANE SYRUP
Pressed and reduced sugar cane juice; sweet
and bright.
SORGHUM SYRUP
The syrup from pressed sweet sorghum, a
reed that grows in the Southeastern United
States; buttery and grassy.

Grandma’s Original Molasses

Bright, sweet, and spicy. Easy to
eat with a spoon.
grandmasmolasses.com

Wholesome Sweeteners Organic Molasses

Dark, bitter, and toasty, with licorice and coffee
grounds on the finish.
wholesomesweet.com

Brer Rabbit Blackstrap Molasses

Dark and thick, reminiscent of burnt caramel.
brerrabbit.com b
 DROPS OF
SUNSHINE
It’ s the height of citrus season, and we’ve rounded up
our favorite desserts that showcase the cream of
the crop. From clementines to tangerines, we’ve got
delicious solutions for the mid-winter blues.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
blood orange
Sweet and subtly tart with flesh that
ranges from dark pink to brilliant red
to deep burgundy (hence, the name)

Blood Orange Loaf Cake

page 34
 clementine
A small, super-sweet, aromatic hybrid
that abounds in Spain and Sicily and
is almost always seedless. When a
recipe calls for orange wedges, make the
supple clementine segments your go-to.

Clementine-Almond Cake

33 bake from scratch

BLOOD ORANGE LOAF CAKE
Makes 1 (8x5-inch) loaf
The addition of zest and a glaze heightens the
subtle blood orange flavor in this cake, which
manages to be moist without being dense.
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (5 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (215 grams) sugar
1 cup sour cream
3 large eggs
2 tablespoons blood orange zest
½ cup blood orange juice
½ cup (110 grams) vegetable oil
Blood Orange Glaze (recipe follows)
Garnish: halved blood oranges
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9x5-inch
loaf pan with cooking spray, and line with
parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking
powder, and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the whisk attachment, beat sugar,
sour cream, eggs, orange zest, and orange juice
at medium speed until well combined, 3 to 4
minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down
sides of bowl. Reduce mixer speed to low, and
gradually add in flour mixture. Continue beating
at low speed, and add oil in a slow, steady stream
until combined.
3. Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake
until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean. Let cool in pan for
5 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool
completely on a wire rack. Drizzle with Blood
Orange Glaze and garnish with blood oranges,
and serve immediately.
Blood Orange Glaze
Makes ⅓ cup
¼ cup Blood Orange Simple Syrup (recipe
follows)
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1. Whisk together Blood Orange Simple Syrup
and confectioners’ sugar until smooth.
Blood Orange Simple Syrup
Makes ¼ cup
¼ cup (53 grams) sugar
¼ cup water
1 blood orange, zested and sectioned
1. In a small saucepan,
bring sugar, ¼ cup water,
orange zest, and orange sections to a boil over
medium-high heat. Let boil for 5 minutes.
Reduce heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Remove from heat, and let cool. Strain mixture
through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids.
CLEMENTINE-ALMOND CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
This fragrant cake demonstrates why almonds and
sweet clementines are a match made in pastry heaven.
4 ripe clementines, zested and sectioned
1 cup (124 grams) pastry flour, divided
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
1⅓ cups (284 grams) sugar
3 tablespoons orange zest
¾ cup (226 grams) almond paste
1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, room
temperature
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
6 large eggs
Garnish: Candied Clementines (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a 9-inch round
cake pan with parchment paper; grease and
flour parchment. Arrange clementine sections
in an even layer in bottom of prepared pan.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together ¾ cup (94
grams) pastry flour, baking powder, and salt.
In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse
together sugar, orange zest, almond paste,
and remaining ¼ cup (30 grams) pastry flour
until well combined, 3 to 4 minutes. With
processor running, add butter, 1 tablespoon
at a time. Add vanilla bean seeds. Process
until mixture is smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. With
processor running, add eggs, one at a time. Add
flour mixture in 2 batches, pulsing to combine
between each addition.
3. Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake until
golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 50 minutes to 1 hour.
Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. Run a knife around
the edges to loosen before inverting onto a
wire rack to let cool completely. Garnish with
Candied Clementines, and serve immediately.
Candied Clementines
Makes enough for 1 (9-inch) cake
6 clementines
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
1 cup water
1. Wash and dry clementines. With a sharp
knife, thinly slice them into rounds.
2. In a large skillet, bring sugar and 1 cup water
to a boil over medium-high heat. Let boil for
5 minutes; reduce heat to low. Add sliced
clementines to syrup in a single layer, and
continue to simmer for 20 minutes.
3. With a slotted spoon, remove clementines
from pan, and let dry on a wire rack until ready
to garnish, about 10 minutes.
TANGERINE MADELEINES
Makes 24
We add tangerines to give a simple citrus twist to this
French classic. We think Proust would approve.
1 cup (228 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons tangerine zest
5 large eggs
1¾ cups (228 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) baking powder
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt
1 cup (225 grams) unsalted butter, melted
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray 2 madeleine
pans with cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together granulated
sugar, zest, and eggs. In a medium bowl, whisk
together flour, baking powder, and salt. Add
flour mixture to sugar mixture, stirring just until
combined. Add butter and vanilla in a slow,
steady stream, whisking constantly, until batter
becomes cohesive. Cover, and refrigerate until
completely cooled, at least 2 hours.
3. Spoon batter by teaspoonfuls into prepared
pans. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes.
Let cool in pans for 5 minutes. Dust with
confectioners’ sugar, and serve immediately.
 grapefruit
Bitter with bright acidity, this oversized
citrus works well in baking because it
pairs beautifully with vanilla.

Grapefruit Soufflés with

Grapefruit Crème Anglaise
page 37
 meyer lemon
The citrus darling of the kitchen: an
extremely versatile cross between a
lemon and a mandarin orange that
yields lots of juice (without the harsh
acidic bite) and has very little pith.

Linzer Cookies with Meyer Lemon Curd

page 37

GRAPEFRUIT SOUFFLÉS WITH
GRAPEFRUIT CRÈME ANGLAISE
Makes 12
The key to a successful soufflé is confidence. This
recipe is approachable enough for the novice
soufflé-maker, and will have you whipping up the
tallest, fluffiest, most delicious soufflés in no time.
Serve warm from the oven. Break the top of the
soufflé gently tableside and pour crème anglaise
liberally into the center.
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter,
plus more for preparing ramekins
¼ cup (50 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (25
grams) sugar, divided, plus more for
dusting ramekins
8 egg yolks
2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons grapefruit zest
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup fresh grapefruit juice
10 egg whites, room temperature
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt
Grapefruit Crème Anglaise (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Grease 12 (8-ounce)
ramekins with butter, and coat with sugar.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks,
flour, zest, and 2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar.
In a medium saucepan, bring milk to a boil
over medium-high heat. Remove from heat.
Add about ½ cup hot milk to egg yolk mixture,
whisking constantly. Add egg yolk mixture
to remaining hot milk, whisking to combine.
Return mixture to pan, and cook, stirring
constantly, until mixture is thickened, 1 to 2
minutes. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh
sieve, and whisk in butter and grapefruit juice.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment, beat egg whites at medium-
high speed until foamy. Gradually add salt and
remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, beating
at high speed until soft peaks form, 3 to 5
minutes. Gently fold egg white mixture into egg
yolk mixture in 3 batches.
4. Fill each soufflé dish with batter, smoothing
tops with an offset spatula or butter knife. Run
a thumb around the edge of each ramekin to
create a lip and to allow for maximum rise. Bake
on a rimmed baking sheet until soufflés are
risen and golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes. Serve
immediately with Grapefruit Crème Anglaise.
Grapefruit Crème Anglaise
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup heavy whipping cream
⅓ cup (80 grams) sugar
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
2 tablespoons grapefruit zest
2 large egg yolks
1. In a medium saucepan, cook cream, sugar,
vanilla bean, and zest over medium-high heat,
whisking constantly, until mixture begins to
simmer. Remove from heat.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks. Add
about ½ cup hot cream mixture to egg yolks,
whisking constantly. Add egg yolk mixture
to remaining hot cream mixture, whisking to
combine. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh
sieve, discarding solids. Return mixture to pan,
and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened
enough to coat the back of a spoon.
3. Refrigerate before serving over Grapefruit
Soufflés.
LINZER COOKIES WITH MEYER
LEMON CURD
Makes 36
Meyer lemons are slightly sweeter and less acidic than
standard lemons and render a curd that’s nothing
short of magical. We love it sandwiched between
cookies, but it’s equally good smeared on an English
muffin or eaten directly off the spoon.
2¼ cups (325 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup blanched almonds
½ cup (116 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon zest
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
1 cup (226 grams) cold unsalted butter
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Meyer Lemon Curd (recipe follows)
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse
together flour, almonds, granulated sugar, zest,
salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg until almonds are
finely ground. Add butter and vanilla, and pulse
until mixture is crumbly.
2. Turn out dough, and knead until it comes
together. Shape dough into a disk, and wrap in
plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 325°. Line baking sheets
with parchment paper.
4. Roll dough to ⅛-inch thickness between two
sheets of parchment paper. Using a 2½-inch
round cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as
necessary. Using a ¾-inch fluted round cutter,
cut centers from half of cookies. Place on
prepared pans.
5. Bake until golden brown, 13 to 15 minutes.
Let cool completely.
6. Sprinkle cookies with cutouts with
confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Spread 2
teaspoons Meyer Lemon Curd on flat side of
all solid cookies. Place cookies with cutouts, flat
side down, on top of filling. Serve immediately.
Meyer Lemon Curd
Makes 1½ cups
½ cup (100 grams) sugar, divided
3 tablespoons Meyer lemon zest
5 egg yolks
½ cup fresh Meyer lemon juice (about 3
lemons)
5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter,
room temperature
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together ¼ cup
(50 grams) sugar, zest, and egg yolks. In a
medium saucepan, bring lemon juice and
remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar to a boil
over medium heat. Add about ¼ cup hot
lemon mixture to egg yolk mixture, whisking
constantly. Add egg yolk mixture to remaining
hot lemon mixture, whisking to combine. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids.
2. Return mixture to pan, and cook, stirring
constantly, until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes.
Whisk in butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until
incorporated. Let cool completely in refrigerator.
Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week. b
 tangerine
A relative of the mandarin that’s
smaller, sweeter, and easier to peel
than a regular orange. It imparts the
delicate essence of orange without
overpowering baked goods.

Tangerine Madeleines
page 34

winter 2016 38
 Muin
a g i c
M
Forget chocolate or lemon poppy seed. It’s time to up your muffin game.
Try these seven flavor combinations— everything but the abracadabra—
for fresh-baked treats that will disappear in no time.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
PHOTO STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Banana Chocolate
Espresso Swirl Muffins
page 50

41 bake from scratch

Bacon Cheddar Poppy Seed Muffins
page 50
 Beet and Goat Cheese Muffins
with Orange Streusel

43 bake from scratch

BEET AND GOAT CHEESE MUFFINS
WITH ORANGE STREUSEL
Makes 8
Your favorite salad gets a sweet makeover in
muffin form. Beet purée adds moisture and
tenderness. Goat cheese serves as a salty
juxtaposition, and lets the natural sweetness of the
beets shine through.
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup (215 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons orange zest
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
4 ounces crumbled goat cheese
1 cup sour cream
3 large eggs
½ cup Beet Purée (recipe follows)
½ cup (110 grams) vegetable oil
1 cup pecans, chopped
Orange Streusel (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350˚. Line 8 jumbo muffin
cups with parchment or paper liners, or coat
well with cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
granulated sugar, orange zest, baking powder,
salt, and goat cheese. Make a well in the center
of mixture. In a medium bowl, whisk together
sour cream, eggs, Beet Purée, and oil. Add to
dry ingredients, stirring just until moistened.
Fold in pecans.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. Top
with Orange Streusel, and bake until a wooden
pick inserted in center comes out clean, 25
to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Beet Purée
Makes ½ cup
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 large beets, greens trimmed
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Drizzle oil over beets,
and wrap loosely in foil. Bake until beets are
fork tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel beets, and
transfer to the work bowl of a food processor.
Process until beets are puréed, 2 to 3 minutes.
Orange Streusel
Makes 2½ cups
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour
⅓ cup (74 grams) granulated sugar
⅓ cup (70 grams) firmly packed light brown
sugar
2 tablespoons orange zest
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1. In a small bowl, whisk together flour,
granulated sugar, brown sugar, orange zest, and
salt. Add melted butter, stirring until mixture
becomes crumbly.
CINNAMON SWIRL MUFFINS
WITH PECANS
Makes 8
If a cinnamon roll and a coffee cake had a seismic
collision, the result would be this muffin. Perfect in
the morning or as an afternoon pick-me-up, these
flavor-packed muffins will not disappoint.
2½ cups (360 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking soda
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) butter
1¼ cups (243 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
½ cup finely chopped pecans
⅓ cup (73 grams) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons (8 grams) cinnamon
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 8 jumbo muffin
cups with parchement or paper liners, or coat
well with cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat butter and brown sugar at
medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes,
stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of
bowl. Add eggs and vanilla, beating well after
each addition. Gradually add flour mixture to
butter mixture alternately with buttermilk,
beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition.
In a small bowl, combine pecans, granulated
sugar, and cinnamon.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups,
filling halfway full. Sprinkle each muffin with
1 tablespoon pecan mixture, and fill muffin cups
with remaining batter. Swirl mixtures together
with a wooden pick, and sprinkle tops with
remaining pecan mixture.
4. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350°, and continue baking until
muffins are golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to
30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Cinnamon Swirl Muffins with Pecans
page 44
Blueberry-Cornmeal Muffins
with Thyme Glaze
page 49

winter 2016 46
STRAWBERRY-BALSAMIC MUFFINS
Makes 8
Sweet strawberries and tangy balsamic vinegar are
a match made in heaven. These muffins take this
combo to an entirely new level.
2½ cups (360 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (215 grams) granulated sugar
1 cup sour cream
3 large eggs
½ cup fresh orange juice
½ cup (110 grams) vegetable oil
1½ cups fresh strawberries, chopped
½ cup Balsamic Reduction (recipe follows)
½ cup (90 grams) turbinado sugar
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 8 jumbo muffin
cups with parchment or paper liners, or coat
well with cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt. In the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat
granulated sugar, sour cream, eggs, and orange
juice at medium speed until well combined,
3 to 4 minutes, stopping occasionally to
scrape down sides of bowl. Reduce mixer
speed to low, and gradually add flour mixture.
Continue beating at low speed, and add oil in
a slow, steady stream until combined. Fold in
strawberries.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups.
Top each muffin with 1 tablespoon Balsamic
Reduction, and use a wooden pick to swirl.
Sprinkle with turbinado sugar.
4. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350°, and continue baking until
muffins are golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30
minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes. Serve
warm or at room temperature.
Balsamic Reduction
Makes about ¾ cup
1 cup high-quality balsamic vinegar
1. In a small saucepan, bring balsamic vinegar
to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat
to medium, and simmer until vinegar coats the
back of a spoon and is reduced to about ¾ cup.
Let cool completely. Cover and refrigerate for
up to 1 month.
cere
recip
Note: We styled this photo in a regular muffin tin,
but you need to bake them in a jumbo muffin tin.
Matcha-Almond Muffins with
Black Sesame Streusel
page 49

winter 2016 48
BLUEBERRY-CORNMEAL MUFFINS
WITH THYME GLAZE
Makes 8
Sometimes it’s the unexpected flavor profiles that
become our favorites. Blueberry, corn, and thyme
might not be the first thing you think of when
you think “blueberry muffin,” but trust us, this
combination is killer.
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup (135 grams) cornmeal
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking soda
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter
1¼ cups (210 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
1½ cups fresh blueberries
Thyme Glaze (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 8 jumbo muffin
cups with parchment or paper liners, or coat
well with cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and
salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and brown
sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4
minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down
sides of bowl. Add eggs and vanilla, beating well
after each addition. Gradually add flour mixture
to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk,
beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition.
Fold in blueberries.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups.
Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven temperature
to 350°, and continue baking until muffins are
golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let
cool in pans for 5 minutes. Drizzle with Thyme
Glaze, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Thyme Glaze
Makes ⅓ cup
¼ cup Thyme Syrup (recipe follows)
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1. Whisk together Thyme Syrup and
confectioners’ sugar until smooth.
Thyme Syrup
Makes ¼ cup
¼ cup (53 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup water
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1. In a small saucepan, bring granulated sugar,
¼ cup water, and thyme to a boil over medium-
high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is
dissolved. Remove from heat, and let cool
completely. Remove thyme sprigs when cool.
MATCHA-ALMOND MUFFINS WITH
BLACK SESAME STREUSEL
Makes 8
Green tea fans rejoice! Now you can have your
tea and eat it, too. These tender green tea muffins
are not only visually striking; they are positively
delicious. The savory black sesame streusel
perfectly offsets the sweet matcha.
2 cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup (100 grams) almond flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (2 grams) baking soda
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
2 large eggs
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (11 grams)
matcha powder
1 cup slivered almonds
Black Sesame Streusel (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups
with parchement or paper liners, or coat well with
cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose
flour, almond flour, baking powder, salt, and
baking soda. Make a well in the center of
mixture. In a small bowl, stir together brown
sugar, eggs, melted butter, milk, and matcha
powder. Add to dry ingredients, stirring just
until moistened. Fold in almonds.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups.
Top with Black Sesame Streusel, and bake until
golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let
cool in pans for 5 minutes. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
Black Sesame Streusel
Makes 2½ cups
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour
⅓ cup (74 grams) granulated sugar
⅓ cup (70 grams) firmly packed light brown
sugar
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1. In a small bowl, whisk together flour,
granulated sugar, brown sugar, black sesame
seeds, and salt. Add melted butter, stirring until
mixture becomes crumbly.
BACON CHEDDAR POPPY SEED
MUFFINS
Makes 8
This cheesy, bacon-filled muffin will satisfy all of
your savory breakfast cravings.
2 cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (16 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
1 large egg
1 cup buttermilk
4 slices bacon, cooked and chopped
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
½ cup chopped pecans
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups
with parchment or paper liners, or coat well with
cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking
powder, and salt. Make a well in the center of
mixture. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
buttermilk. Add to dry ingredients, stirring just
until moistened. Fold in all remaining ingredients.
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups.
Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool
in pans for 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room
temperature.
BANANA CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO
SWIRL MUFFINS
Makes 8
We’re not sure if these muffins are breakfast or
dessert, but we promise not to judge if you eat one
(okay, three) of them hot out of the oven. (They’re
THAT good.)
1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels
1½ tablespoons (6 grams) espresso powder
2 cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (185 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking soda
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
1½ cups mashed banana
2 large eggs
½ cup (108 grams) vegetable oil
¼ cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups
with parchment or paper liners, or coat well with
cooking spray.
2. In the top of a double boiler, melt chocolate
with espresso powder. Remove from heat, and
let cool. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
sugar, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Make a well in the center of mixture. In a
medium bowl, whisk together mashed banana,
eggs, oil, buttermilk, molasses, and vanilla. Add
to dry ingredients, stirring just until moistened.
Spoon 1½ cups (330 grams) batter into a
separate bowl, and stir in chocolate-espresso
mixture.
3. Spoon banana batter into prepared muffin
cups, filling two-thirds full. Using the back of a
spoon, make a shallow trench in the middle of
each muffin cup. Spoon in chocolate-espresso
batter, and swirl with a wooden pick. Bake until a
wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean,
25 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature. b
the essential...

rye
Unless your great grandmother
emigrated from northern Europe or
you live around the corner from a
Jewish deli, you may have never tasted
freshly baked rye bread. But it has been
a staple in countries such as Sweden,
Germany, Poland, Lithuania, and Russia
for millennia. Some people say just the
aroma of rye bread baking is reason
enough to try your hand at making
these tasty loaves. You be the judge.

BY BETTY TERRY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O’HAGAN
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING
BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
Doesn't this Studio Patro apron
look great? It's soft and perfect for
everyday baking. studiopatro.com
 rye sandwich bread
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf

We love this loaf because of its unbeatable texture, deep rye flavor, and versatility. It can be baked
in a standard loaf pan, a Pullman pan, or hand-shaped into a rustic bâtard or boule. This kind of
versatility makes a perfect starter loaf for the timid baker!

2 cups (287 grams) all-purpose flour

1 cup (169 grams) light rye flour
1 cup warm whole milk (85°)
¼ cup molasses
2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon (7 grams) caraway seeds
2 teaspoons (10 grams) kosher salt
2 teaspoons (8 grams) active dry yeast
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine all-purpose
PRO TIP: Baking with a Pullman Pan
flour, rye flour, warmed milk, molasses, butter, caraway seeds, salt, and yeast until moist-
ened. Let stand for 20 minutes to let the rye absorb some liquid and begin to relax a bit. Don’t put the lid on a Pullman loaf pan
Knead for about 8 minutes in the mixer, or 12 minutes by hand. Spray a large bowl with until it has finished its final rise, especially
cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, if you are new to baking with them. You
may want to check on the bread while
draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.
it’s rising, and removing the lid will wreak
2. Turn out risen dough onto a lightly floured surface, and deflate it to remove excess air. Pull havoc with the loaf. Once the dough has
the four corners of the dough into the center, and roll gently with palms to form a loaf. Spray risen to within ½ inch of the rim of the
a 9x5-inch loaf pan or Pullman pan with cooking spray. Place loaf in pan. Cover and proof in pan, slide the lid on and bake it.
a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 375°. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush
over risen loaf, and sprinkle with more caraway seeds, if desired. Using a sharp knife or
lame, make 4 large slashes across top of loaf. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in center registers 190°, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for 20
minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.

winter 2016 54
TOPPINGS FOR RYE CRISPS
Our freshly baked Rye Crisps can be
used to make delicious canapés. From
left to right (above), we’ve topped
them with:
• A generous smear of crème fraîche, a
thin slice of smoked salmon, fresh dill
leaves, and a sprinkle of lemon zest
• Apple slices and pistachios over goat
cheese
• Chive-garlic compound butter and
thin radish slices
Connect with us on social media
using #thebakefeed, and let us
know how you top your Rye Crisps.
rye crisps
Makes 48
Dunk these crisps into your bowl of soup or trick
them out with toppings at your next soirée. These
crisps are packed with rye flavor and will not
disappoint.
½ cup whole milk
1 tablespoon molasses
1 cup (155 grams) rye flour
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) kosher salt
2 tablespoons (14 grams) caraway seeds,
divided
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
3 tablespoons (45 grams) cold unsalted
butter, cubed
1 egg
1 tablespoon water
rye bread pudding
Makes 12 servings
This bread pudding is full of the Reuben sandwich
flavors we love most.
6 cups Rye Sandwich Bread (recipe on page
54), cut into 1-inch cubes
4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter
2 large leeks (white and green parts only),
halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
6 large eggs
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
1 cup shredded Swiss cheese
½ pound pastrami, finely diced
2 teaspoons (10 grams) kosher salt
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) ground black pepper
1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
1. In a small bowl, stir together milk and
molasses. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine rye flour, all-purpose flour, salt,
1 tablespoon (7 grams) caraway seeds, and
baking powder. Pulse to combine. Add butter,
and process until mixture is crumbly. With
processor running, add milk mixture in a slow,
steady stream just until dough comes together.
Turn out dough, and shape into a disk. Wrap in PRO TIP:
plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. A pizza cutter makes
2. Preheat oven to 400°. Divide dough in half. quick work of cutting the
On a silicone baking mat or sheet of parchment dough for Rye Crisps.
paper, roll dough to ¹⁄₁₆-inch thickness. In a
small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon
water. Brush across dough, and sprinkle with
remaining 1 tablespoon (7 grams) caraway
seeds. Using a docker or fork, prick the dough.
With a sharp knife or pizza wheel, slice dough
into 2-inch rectangles. Bake until edges begin
to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely
on a wire rack.
WITH PASTRAMI AND LEEKS
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet
with parchment paper. Line 12 jumbo muffin
cups with paper liners or parchment paper.
2. Spread bread cubes on prepared baking
sheet, and bake until beginning to brown,
about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large
sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high
heat. Add leeks, and cook until tender, 15 to
20 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk,
and cream. Add mustard, cheese, pastrami,
salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir in cooked
leeks. Add bread cubes to custard, and let
stand 15 minutes. Divide mixture evenly in
prepared muffin cups. Bake until custard is
set and tops are golden brown, about 30 to
35 minutes.
winter 2016 56
PRO TIP: For A Crowd
The bread pudding can also be
baked in a 13x9-inch baking
dish for 1 hour to 1 hour and
30 minutes.

Rye Bread Pudding with Pastrami and Leeks

page 56
Marbled Rye Bread
page 60
PRO TIP: Sticky Situation
With the addition of molasses,
the dough for our Rye
Sandwich Bread may be
somewhat sticky, but resist
the urge to knead in more
flour as you would with wheat
bread. For a tender loaf with
a fine crumb, our test kitchen
recommends you embrace
the stickiness.
marbled rye bread
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf

Simpler than it looks, this marbled loaf is as delicious as

it is beautiful. Its tight, tender crumb makes it the perfect
sandwich loaf. You really can’t go wrong, though, simply
toasting a slice, smearing it with butter, and letting its
delicate rye flavor shine through.

Light dough:
1¾ cups (220 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (118 grams) rye flour
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon honey
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (5 grams) active dry yeast
1 cup water, room temperature 3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and
deflate it to remove excess air. Divide each ball in half.
Roll each dough quarter into a 9x6-inch rectangle.
Dark dough: Layer rectangles on top of one another, alternating
1¾ cups (220 grams) all-purpose flour light and dark. Starting at one long side, roll dough into
¾ cup (118 grams) rye flour a log. Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with cooking spray.
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter Place loaf seam side down in pan. Cover and let rise
3 tablespoons (22 grams) unsweetened cocoa in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size,
powder about 1 hour.
1 tablespoon molasses 4. Preheat oven to 375°.
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt 5. For topping: In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 teaspoon (5 grams) active dry yeast 1 tablespoon water. Brush egg wash over loaf. Using a
1 cup water, room temperature sharp knife or lame, make 4 deep slashes across top of
loaf. Sprinkle with caraway seeds and flax seeds. Bake
Topping: until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer
1 egg inserted in center registers 190°, 35 to 40 minutes.
1 tablespoon water Let cool in pan for 20 minutes. Remove from pan, and
1 tablespoon caraway seeds let cool completely on a wire rack. b
1 teaspoon flax seeds

1. For light dough: In a large bowl, combine all-purpose

flour, rye flour, butter, honey, salt, and yeast. Gradually
add 1 cup water until a soft dough forms. Turn out dough
onto a lightly floured surface, and knead dough until
smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. PRO TIP: Assembly Required
2. For dark dough: In a separate large bowl, combine To assemble our Marbled Rye
all-purpose flour, rye flour, butter, cocoa, molasses, Bread loaf, divide the dough in
salt, and yeast. Gradually add 1 cup water until a soft quarters—two light and two dark.
dough forms. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured (We recommend weighing the
surface, and knead dough until smooth and elastic, dough quarters for accuracy.)
about 10 minutes. Shape each mass of dough into Then roll out each quarter to a
a ball. Spray 2 large bowls with cooking spray. Place 9x6-inch rectangle. Stack them,
dough in bowls, turning to grease tops. Cover and let alternating light and dark layers,
stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in and roll up like a jelly roll.
size, about 1 hour.

winter 2016 60
 the
THIRD SHIFT
At closing time in
the Crescent City,
things are just
getting started
at Willa Jean
BY DANIEL SCHUMACHER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
While most of New Orleans sleeps,
the lights burn bright at Willa Jean, which opened the middle
of last year in the city’s new South Market District. Conceived
as a partnership between superstar pastry chef Kelly Fields,
accomplished baker Lisa White, and Crescent City restaurant
magnate Chef John Besh, the restaurant garnered instant local
and national acclaim for its Southern-inspired dishes and its
ambitious in-house bread-baking program (which includes
comforting white bread, crusty baguettes, and three-day aged
Siciliano loaves).

To keep the restaurant stocked, Willa Jean’s bakery runs

around the clock. The Third Shift, led by Lisa, bakes the loaves,
buns, cookies, and croissants that have brought early attention
to the new restaurant/bakery. Willa Jean’s multi-day rolling
schedule of mixing, proofing, shaping, and baking blurs
the lines from one day to the next, and the overnight crew
stewards the lumps of dough into crusty perfection. We stayed
over with the Third Shift to see how these hands-on bakers got
the job done.

9:32 pm
On the playlist: ”let Me Clear My Throat” — DJ Kool
When Lisa arrives for the Third Shift, dinner service is nearly over, but a few customers still
linger over their espressos and salted chocolate chip cookies. In the kitchen, though, the line
cooks are hard at work breaking down their stations and cleaning up. With clouds of steam
from the dishwashers, floury mops, and excitement everywhere, they’re deciding which bar or
restaurant they’ll be hitting once their shift ends.

While Lisa writes up her prep list for the next day, she sips on a warm cup of herbal tea. Her
favorite: Kilogram’s 333, a caffeine-free blend of sweet-tart rosehips, peppermint, and chamomile.
The irony that she’s a coffee shop owner who hardly drinks the stuff isn’t lost on her.

On a normal night, she’d sit down with Kelly Fields to bounce around ideas for new menu items,
breads, and flavor profiles she wants to try. Though the two are close collaborators, they work
opposite schedules, with Kelly leading the day shift. They’re often like ships passing in the night,
relying on quick meetings and a constant flow of e-mails to stay in touch. This isn’t a normal
evening, though. Kelly has decided to stay for her first Third Shift.

winter 2016 62
 10:56 pm
On the playlist: “It’s Tricky” — Run DMC
A few feet away, Lisa works on new Danish shapes. Now that
Willa Jean has been open for a few months, she’s trying some
different cuts, twists, and folds.

Lisa is hemmed into a corner by Kelly, who’s rolling out

cinnamon roll dough on the sheeter. It glides back and
forth on the heavily-floured twin conveyer belts, with Kelly
operating the lever. Kelly throws handfuls of flour and the
dough flattens little by little. They’re both working in the
same tight triangle between the counter, sheeter, and giant
mixer, but it’s a big kitchen. Big enough for a busy New
Orleans restaurant, and a lot larger than what Kelly expected
when she first started seriously talking with chef John Besh
about opening a bakery in 2003.

New Orleans, she thought, was a city of neighborhoods:

people on the far edge of Uptown wouldn’t want to head
all the way across town to the French Quarter or the South
Market District for a chocolate chip cookie. A collection
of small-footprint bakeries more akin to David Chang and

9:51 pm
Christina Tosi’s successful Momofuku Milk Bar in New York
City was more what she had in mind. But that’s not the way
it worked out. And she’s realizing people will travel for those
On the playlist: “Shoop” - Salt-N-Pepa salted chocolate chip cookies. In just a few short months, the
With the kitchen to themselves and early 90s music on the bakery has reached destination status.
hi-fi, the Third Shifters work with a quiet intensity. Flour is
everywhere, and it’s just the beginning. Pullman loaves are in
the oven, and Tasha Tetreau, a 10-year pastry cook, shapes a
dozen baguettes, pinching, pulling, and stretching the dough,
goading it into the classic shape.

The morning and afternoon crew mixed the dough for all
of Willa Jean’s breads, gave them a first shape, and let them
rest. In the beginning of her shift, Tasha gives the baguettes,
pumpernickel, and semolina loaves the final touches before
getting them into the oven. Semolinas are studded with sesame
seeds and sliced with a razor blade, and the pumpernickels get a
thick dusting of flour.

Timers punctuate the relative silence, and before we know it,

the soft, white Pullman loaves are done.
11:46 pm
On the playlist: “Bust a Move” — Young MC
On the other side of the kitchen former actress Kate Phillips
might be in another world. While Kelly’s cinnamon rolls
rest and Lisa’s experimental Danishes wait to be filled, Kate
brushes warm loaves of cornbread with a thick honey glaze
(they will be reheated and served to wide-eyed diners with
an indulgent portion of smoky-sweet Poirier’s cane syrup
butter). In addition to baking breads for the restaurant, the
Third Shift finishes the croissants, biscuits, crackers, and
other odds and ends served by the daytime shifts.

Meanwhile, standing in front of the long, three-decked

oven—tricked out with precise digital controls for steam
injection, heat, and timing—Tasha pours out containers
of ciabatta dough half her size. Kelly leans over and sniffs
the dough, pats it, and watches it spring lazily back. They all
smell everything.
 12:34 Am
On the playlist: “Just Dance” — Lady Gaga and Colby O’Donis
After rolling out the cinnamon roll dough, Kelly liberally spreads the filling across
the length of the five-foot sheet with an offset spatula and covers it with a thick
layer of cinnamon sugar. As a cloud of cinnamon settles, she and Lisa start tightly
rolling the dough from the back to the front.

A caffeine fiend, Kelly pours another Milk Money Latte with four additional shots
of espresso. The farm that produces the milk used for Willa Jean’s coffee program,
Progress Milk Barn, was the first recipient of the John Besh Foundation’s Milk Money
Grant, which provides micro-loans and business training to small family farms in
the New Orleans area. A portion of the latte sales go back to the foundation.

The air is getting sweeter as the cinnamon rolls begin their final rise.

65 bake from scratch

2:05 Am
On the playlist:
“Parlez-Nous a Boire” — Sweet Crude
The action picks up around 2 am. The bakers
start shouting out the time every half-hour,
because the first shifters will start arriving in
a few hours. In the meantime, all of the loaves
need to be baked, the kitchen tidied, and the
oven temperatures cooled. Any delays can
throw off the kitchen’s flow for an entire day.

Tasha has been covered in flour standing in

front of the oven for a few hours, tapping,
turning, and jockeying hot loaves around to
make sure they bake evenly. The cooling rack
next to her is full of ciabattas, baguettes, and
various other breads.

While Willa Jean goes through a lot of

bread, its bakery also sends ciabatta to
other restaurants in the John Besh empire,
including Shaya and Domenica. Tasha stacks
the loaves like a Jenga puzzle until each space
is filled. A great wall of gluten.
 3:17 Am
On the playlist: “Shadow People” — Dr. Dog
With the great wall of bread finished in the kitchen, Lisa starts bringing
armfuls of the day’s cooled loaves out to the bakery counter. She
carefully arranges them in cubby holes along the bakery’s faux-brick wall,
sometimes standing on a milk crate.

Behind her are a few large paper bags full of day-old bread and pastries that
Willa Jean contributes to a local food pantry and after-school program.
As Lisa walks back-and-forth stocking the bakery, she tracks perfect
floury footprints all over the honeycomb-tile floor. We all do. Jermaine
Robinson, a father of two, who had been working in the dining room all
night lays down paper to help control the mess.

2:45 Am
On the playlist: “Ol’ Lady” – Big Freedia
Heavy pans of cinnamon rolls are ready for the
oven. Based on Kelly’s mother’s recipe, the sweet,
sticky rolls are another tie to her roots in coastal
South Carolina. Willa Jean was named after Kelly’s
paternal grandmother, and while the two didn’t
cook much together, time spent in the kitchen and
around the table ignited Kelly’s passion for cooking.
The smaller convection oven the team uses for pastries
is packed with croissants and Danishes, as tender,
tangy buttermilk biscuits cool nearby after their turn
in the oven.

Back at the main oven, Tasha takes the last of the

baguette dough and fashions it into a pain d’epi, a
wheatstalk-shaped loaf that will be used to decorate
the bakery counter, and will eventually be sold to an
intrigued customer.

67 bake from scratch

4:00 Am
On the playlist: “Nicotine & Gravy” — Beck
When the funky, cool grooves of late-90s Beck starts playing in the
kitchen, it’s clear that Kelly has gotten a second wind.

In the last hour, the Third Shifters have swept up mountains of flour
and continued their baking. We start to see the first new faces of the day.
Bright-eyed but still sleepy, the first shift begins arriving. At once, the
clanging of pots and the kitchen chatter escalates. Meanwhile, it’s still
pitch-black and a little foggy outside the restaurant. Until a year or so
ago, this neighborhood was a mishmash of slightly decaying parking lots.
In the period of a few months, dozens of high-end developments have
sprung up.
5:26 Am
On the playlist: “Just a Friend” – Biz Markie
Bunches of eggs bob around a large water bath, getting
poached for the morning rush, which will begin in just over
an hour. Kate cuts servings of breakfast pizzas and savory
foccacias. Adrian Morgan, the morning shift dough mixer
and competitive eater, has taken over a corner of the kitchen
to start the day’s loaves. Lisa unmolds, slices, and inspects
the cinnamon babka. The silver is polished and the chairs
are mostly set. Tall stacks of powdered chocolate-espresso
cookies line the bakery counter.

winter 2016 70
7:00 am
The kitchen jams stop and the world returns to color.
For the people queued at Willa Jean’s coffee bar, waiting for their Intelligentsia Coffee
espresso, it’s morning and sunlight is just starting to creep into the high-ceilinged room.
But for Lisa, it’s m’evening—a strange time where sunlight and exhaustion collide, and
one to which she’s just starting to acclimate. Before heading home, she has a mimosa.
A big one. With the day’s dough proofing safely in the kitchen, she’ll try to catch some
sleep before she and her overnight bakers start up again.

On the following pages, enjoy Lisa and Kelly’s recipes that you can create at home.

winter 2016 72
CINNAMON ROLLS 1 large egg speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Beat in
Recipe adapted from Kelly Fields, Willa Jean 3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch one-third flour until combined. Beat in salt
¼ teaspoon salt and remaining 3 tablespoons granulated sugar.
Makes 6 ¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter Gradually beat in remaining two-thirds flour.
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3. Switch to dough hook attachment, and
Dough: knead at low speed until dough is smooth
2 (0.25-ounce) packages active dry yeast Cinnamon Mixture: and elastic, about 4 minutes. Spray a large
6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated sugar, 1 cup (185 grams) granulated sugar bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
divided 2 tablespoons cinnamon turning to grease top. Cover tightly with plastic
1½ cups warm whole milk (100° to 110°) ½ teaspoon salt wrap, and let rest in refrigerator overnight.
1 large egg 4. For pastry cream: In a medium heavy-
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter, Glaze: bottomed saucepan, bring milk and 5
softened 2½ cups (334 grams) confectioners’ sugar tablespoons granulated sugar to a boil over
5 cups (700 grams) all-purpose flour, 3 to 4 tablespoons whole milk medium-high heat. Remove from heat.
divided 5. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks,
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten egg, cornstarch, salt, and remaining ¼ cup
granulated sugar until combined. Add a small
Pastry Cream: 1. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted amount of hot milk mixture to egg mixture,
2 cups whole milk with the paddle attachment, combine yeast and whisking constantly to temper mixture.
¼ cup plus 5 tablespoons (112 grams) 3 tablespoons granulated sugar. Add milk, and Keep adding small amounts of milk, whisking
granulated sugar, divided let mixture sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. constantly, until there is an equal amount of
3 large egg yolks 2. Add egg and butter, and beat at medium milk added to egg mixture. Return egg-milk
mixture to saucepan, and heat over medium-
high heat, whisking constantly, until mixture
thickens and bubbles. (Turn heat down to
medium if mixture begins to stick to bottom of
Notes from Kelly:
pan.) Remove from heat; whisk in butter and
Using a serrated knife with a gentle sawing motion ensures
vanilla. Place mixture in a heatproof bowl, and
even, smooth slices. To double the yield (rolls will be smaller), place bowl in a larger bowl filled with crushed
cut 1-inch slices and adjust baking time. ice. Whisk occasionally until mixture cools.
Place plastic wrap directly on surface of pastry
cream, and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
6. For cinnamon mixture: In a small bowl, whisk
together granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt
until combined.
7. For glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk together
confectioners’ sugar and milk until desired
consistency is reached.
8. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment
paper.
9. To assemble rolls: On a lightly floured surface,
roll dough into an 18x13-inch rectangle. Spread a
thin layer of pastry cream over surface of dough,
leaving a 1-inch border around edges. Sprinkle
cinnamon mixture evenly over pastry cream. Roll
up dough, jelly-roll style, starting with one short
side. Brush edge of dough with beaten egg, and
press to seal. Using a serrated knife, cut dough into
2-inch slices. (Cut uneven ends off before cutting
slices.) Place cut rolls onto prepared pan. Let stand
in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in
size, about 1 hour. (Rolls should be covered with a
thin dish towel to prevent drying out).
10. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake for 25
minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking
time for even baking. Let cool slightly while
covered with a thin dish towel. Spoon desired
amount of glaze over rolls, and serve slightly
warm for best flavor.
CHOCOLATE-ESPRESSO COOKIES
Recipe adapted from Lisa White, Willa Jean
Makes 90
¾ cup (115 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) salt
2¼ cups (360 grams) 60% chocolate morsels
¾ cup (120 grams) 70% chocolate morsels
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
6 large eggs, room temperature
2 cups (370 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup brewed espresso
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
2½ cups (400 grams) semisweet chocolate
morsels, frozen
4 cups (540 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1. Line an 18x13-inch rimmed baking sheet with
parchment or wax paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt; set aside.
3. In a large bowl set over a double boiler, melt
60% and 70% chocolate morsels. (Water
should not be touching bottom of bowl.) Whisk
in butter; remove bowl from heat, and let
mixture cool to room temperature.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment, beat eggs and granulated
sugar at high speed until very thick and pale in
color, 6 to 8 minutes. Slowly pour in cooled
chocolate mixture, scraping down sides of bowl
to ensure even mixing. Reduce mixer speed to
low, and beat in dry ingredients until combined,
stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of
bowl. Beat in espresso and vanilla. Change from
whisk to paddle attachment, and beat in frozen
chocolate morsels until incorporated.
5. Pour mixture into prepared pan. Place a
sheet of parchment or wax paper over surface
of dough, covering completely. Refrigerate
overnight.
6. Preheat oven to 350°. Line several rimmed
baking sheets with parchment paper.
7. In a large bowl, place confectioners’ sugar.
Using a 1-tablespoon levered scoop, scoop
dough and drop into confectioners’ sugar,
several at a time, tossing to coat. Place 2 inches
apart on prepared pans. Bake until puffy and
cracked, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from pans,
and let cool completely on wire racks. Store in
an airtight container at room temperature with
layers separated by wax or parchment paper. b
Notes from Lisa:
This recipe yields a large amount
of cookies that can be stored in
the freezer for up to a month.
Store in an airtight container
with layers separated by wax or
parchment paper.
 For more than 3,000 years,
we’ve been seduced by the
power of chocolate. This
winter, treat yourself with
these sinfully good recipes,
from over-the-top brownies
to silken pots de creme.
Because sometimes it’s good
to be bad.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE

VANESSA ROCCHIO
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND STYLING BY
Cardamom Flourless Chocolate Cake
page 81
PRO TIP: Just Chill
Chilling the dough helps
it keep its shape and bake
without spreading.

Chocolate Hand Pies

CHOCOLATE HAND PIES
Makes 20
Chocolate on chocolate just might be the ultimate
decadence. These pies combine a flaky chocolate
crust and creamy chocolate-hazelnut filling right
in the palm of your hand. And they can even be
stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
2½ cups (420 grams) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (46 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (27 grams) unsweetened cocoa
powder
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup half-and-half
⅓ cup heavy whipping cream
1 (3.5-ounce) 70% cacao extra bittersweet
chocolate bar, finely chopped
⅓ cup chocolate-hazelnut spread*
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons (21 grams) turbinado sugar
1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine flour, granulated sugar, cocoa, and
salt. Pulse until blended. Add butter, and pulse
until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add
half-and-half, 1 tablespoon at a time, pulsing
to form a ball. Shape dough into 2 disks; wrap
tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until
firm, at least 30 minutes. (Note: You can make
and chill the dough up to 24 hours in advance,
but if you do so, you should let it sit at room
temperature for an hour for easy roll out.)
2. In a small saucepan, heat cream until it
begins to bubble but not boil. Place chocolate
in a medium bowl, and pour cream over
chocolate. Let stand for 5 minutes; whisk until
smooth. Whisk in chocolate-hazelnut spread;
refrigerate until firm.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1
tablespoon water until combined. Line baking
sheets with parchment paper.
4. On a lightly floured surface, roll one half
of dough to ¼-inch thickness. Using a 3-inch
round fluted cutter, cut dough into 20 pieces,
rerolling scraps as necessary. Pierce dough
rounds with a fork, creating an “X.” Roll
remaining half of dough to ¼-inch thickness.
Using a 2½-inch round fluted cutter, cut dough
into 20 rounds, rerolling scraps as necessary.
Place 1 tablespoon chocolate mixture in center
of each 2½-inch round. Brush edges with egg
mixture. Place a 3-inch dough piece on top
of each chocolate mound, pressing edges to
seal. Place on prepared pans. Refrigerate for
15 minutes. Brush each pie with egg wash, and
sprinkle with turbinado sugar.
5. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake for 20 to
22 minutes.
* We used Nutella.
winter 2016 78
One-Pound Chocolate Brownies
page 82
 Pots de Crème
page 81

PRO TIP: Chopping

Finely chopping chocolate
helps it melt evenly.
 CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIRS
Makes 24
These elegant desserts are way easier than they
look. And you can bake the Pâte à Choux and
freeze it up to 2 weeks before filling.
Pâte à Choux:
1 cup water
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar
½ teaspoon (1½ grams) salt
1¼ cups (175 grams) all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
Chocolate Pastry Cream:
½ cup (93 grams) sugar
3 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch
3 tablespoons (18 grams) unsweetened
cocoa powder
1½ cups milk
4 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon (½ gram) salt
Glaze:
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1 (4 ounce) 70% cacao extra bittersweet
chocolate baking bar (120 grams), finely
chopped
1. For Pâte à Choux: In a medium saucepan,
bring 1 cup water, butter, sugar, and salt to
a boil. Remove from heat. Using a wooden
spoon, quickly stir in flour. Cook over medium-
high heat, stirring constantly, until mixture pulls
away from sides and a film forms on bottom of
pan, about 3 minutes.
2. Transfer to a large bowl, and beat with a
mixer at low speed until slightly cooled, about
1 minute. Increase speed to medium; add eggs,
one at a time, beating until soft peaks form.
3. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 2 rimless baking
sheets with parchment paper.
4. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch (Ateco
No. 806) tip with batter; pipe out oblong
shapes, about 3½ inches long and 1 inch wide,
onto prepared pans 2 inches apart. Gently run
a fork dipped in water along each top, making
straight lines to ensure even rising.
5. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce oven
temperature to 350°. Bake until golden brown,
20 to 25 minutes. Remove from pans, and let
cool on a wire rack.
6. For Chocolate Pastry Cream: In a large
saucepan, whisk together sugar, cornstarch,
81 bake from scratch
and cocoa. Whisk in milk and egg yolks.
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly,
until thickened and bubbly, 8 to 10 minutes.
Remove from heat, and stir in butter, vanilla,
and salt until melted.
7. Transfer cream mixture to a medium glass
bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate
until completely cooled.
8. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a coupler and
filling tip (Ateco No. 230) with Chocolate
Pastry Cream. Insert tip into one end of each
éclair; fill with cream.
9. For Glaze: In a small saucepan, heat cream
until it begins to bubble but not boil. Place
chocolate in a medium bowl, and pour cream
over chocolate. Let stand until chocolate is
melted; stir until smooth. Dip top of each éclair
into glaze, and spread with the back of a spoon.
Transfer to a wire rack to let glaze set. Serve
immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to
1 day.
POTS DE CRÈME
Makes 8 servings
This silky dessert is a big step up from your basic
pudding—it eats more like the center of a really
good chocolate truffle.
2 (4-ounce) 70% cacao extra bittersweet
chocolate baking bar (240 grams), finely
chopped
½ cup (92 grams) sugar
2⅔ cups half-and-half
6 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons (24 grams) unsweetened
cocoa powder
3 tablespoons bourbon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
Chocolate Whipped Cream (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 300°. Place chocolate and
sugar in a medium glass bowl.
2. In a small saucepan, bring half-and-half to
a boil. Pour over chocolate, and let stand for 5
minutes. Whisk until smooth.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg
yolks, cocoa, bourbon, vanilla, and salt. Whisk
in melted chocolate mixture until smooth.
Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass
measuring cup.
4. Place 8 (4-ounce) custard cups or ramekins
in a 13x9-inch baking pan. Pour hot water in
pan halfway up sides of ramekins, making sure
not to get water in chocolate mixture.
5. Bake until custard centers are slightly
set, about 30 minutes. Carefully remove
from water. Let cool completely; cover and
refrigerate overnight. Serve with Chocolate
Whipped Cream.
Chocolate Whipped Cream
Makes about 1 cup
½ cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (20 grams) confectioners’
sugar
2 tablespoons (12 grams) unsweetened
cocoa powder
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together all
ingredients until fluffy. Serve immediately with
Pots de Crème.
CARDAMOM FLOURLESS
CHOCOLATE CAKE
Makes 8 servings
The beauty of this cake is the crackled top, which,
combined with the cardamom-scented cake,
yields the perfect mix of crispy, soft, chocolaty
goodness in a single bite.
3 (4-ounce) 70% cacao extra bittersweet
chocolate baking bars (360 grams),
chopped
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
6 large eggs, room temperature
1½ cups (278 grams) sugar
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon (¾ gram) salt
Unsweetened cocoa powder
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a 9-inch
springform pan with parchment paper; grease
bottom and sides of pan.
2. In the top of a double boiler, add chocolate
and butter. Cook over simmering water, stirring
occasionally, until mixture is smooth. Remove
from heat, and let cool for 10 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, beat eggs, sugar, cardamom,
and salt with a mixer at medium-high speed
until light and thickened, 6 to 8 minutes. Fold
in melted chocolate until combined.
4. Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake
until a wooden pick inserted in center comes
out clean, 1 hour and 10 minutes. Let cool
completely on a wire rack.
5. To serve, gently remove ring from springform
pan. Dust cake with cocoa.
ONE-POUND CHOCOLATE 1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour 2. In the top of a double boiler, add chocolate
BROWNIES ½ cup (54 grams) unsweetened cocoa and butter. Cook over simmering water, stirring
Makes 16 servings powder occasionally, until mixture is smooth. Remove
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder from heat. Stir in orange marmalade and half-
Rich, dense, and packed with chocolate, these are 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and-half.
not your grandma’s brownies. The orange marmalade 2 (4-ounce) 60% cacao bittersweet 3. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, flour,
adds depth and keeps the brownies moist. chocolate baking bars (240 grams), cocoa, and baking powder. Stir in melted
chopped chocolate mixture and vanilla until moistened.
2 (4-ounce) 70% cacao extra bittersweet Stir in chopped chocolate. Spread batter into
chocolate baking bars (240 grams), finely 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 13x9-inch prepared pan. Bake until brownies are beginning
chopped baking pan with parchment paper. Lightly to loosen around the edges, about 30 minutes.
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, cubed grease parchment. Let cool completely in pan before cutting.
⅓ cup orange marmalade
⅓ cup half-and-half
2¼ cups (463 grams) sugar

THREE MORE WAYS TO SATISFY

YOUR BROWNIE CRAVINGS
Try these twists on our ultra-rich One-Pound
Chocolate Brownies.

Malbec Fig Brownies

In a large saucepan, add 2 cups Malbec wine,
and cook over high heat until reduced by ⅓ cup.
Remove from heat, and add ⅓ cup fig spread.
Let cool completely. Make brownies as directed
above, omitting orange marmalade and half-
and-half, and adding wine mixture to melted
chocolate. (We used Dalmatia Fig Spread.)

Raspberry Brownies
In a medium saucepan, add 1 cup raspberry
liqueur, and cook over high heat until reduced
by ⅓ cup. Remove from heat, and add ⅓ cup
raspberry fruit spread. Let cool completely.
Make brownies as directed above, omitting
orange marmalade and half-and-half, and
adding raspberry mixture to melted chocolate.
(We used Hero premium red raspberry fruit spread
and Chambord liqueur.)

Ginger and Peanut Butter Brownies

Stir together ⅔ cup crunchy peanut butter and
½ cup heavy whipping cream until smooth. Stir
in ⅓ cup ginger preserves. Make brownies as
directed above, omitting orange marmalade
and half-and-half, and adding peanut butter
mixture to melted chocolate. (We used Mackays
ginger preserves.) b
 Chocolate Éclairs
page 81

83 bake from scratch

ISLAND-STYLE
Comfort
Caribbean breezes, cold beer, and spicy meat pies—that’s one
of our favorite winter recipes. Read on for everything you
need to know to tell a patty from a pastelito and
where to find the best handheld bites in the islands.
BY BROOKE MORTON

Photo by David Hanson


Photo courtesy Aruba Tourism Authority
Throughout the
Caribbean, flaky
hand pies stuffed
with meat dot the
culinary landscape.
They’re meat patties in Jamaica, pates in the
U.S. Virgin Islands, pastelitos in the Dominican
Republic, and pastechis in Aruba. Regardless
of what you call them, the meat pies of our
southern neighbors all have roots in the colonial
era, when the Caribbean’s African population
was first introduced to Cornish pasties. And
today, the varieties are endless. Whether you
like yours hot or prefer something a little
sweeter, here’s the skinny on the unofficial
roadside snack of the Caribbean.
U.S. Virgin Islands
In the Virgin Islands, look for pates, which tend to be light on spice and heavy on juicy meat.
CAROL AND PAUL MOBILE FOOD TRUCK, ST. THOMAS
Seventh Street near Roy Lester Schneider Hospital
Sugar Estate, 340-771-8663
These pate makers combine parsley, rosemary, bay leaves, salt, and pepper to season the beef,
chicken, salt fish, and conch patties that they fry in 350°F vegetable oil for five minutes. Find
them in Charlotte Amalie on Seventh Street, roughly six blocks inland from the cruise ship
dock of Havensight Point. Grab a few varieties to go, then walk back toward the waterfront
boardwalk to enjoy a view with your snack.
HERCULES PATE DELIGHT, ST. JOHN
Lumberyard Shopping Complex
Cruz Bay, 340-776-6352
For over 20 years, owners Hercules and Letitia have made the meat the main attraction in
their West Indies-style pies. Thin dough fences in shrimp, beef, salt fish, or chicken, all spiced
with adobo, onion, pepper, and just a hint of hot sauce. Rather than rely on exact frying times,
the savvy cooks just watch until the pates turn golden brown in the bubbling vat of vegetable
oil. Find them by looking for the yellow-and-green building on North Shore Road in Cruz Bay,
home to the island’s bustling commercial center and main port.
winter 2016 86
 Dominican Republic
Pastelitos, the de facto national snack, are sold at roadside stands and by
vendors throughout the country. They resemble a round empanada, but
with a more buttery, flaky crust. They tend to be small, so don’t be shy
about doubling (or tripling) down when you order.
SOLO PASTELITOS, SANTO DOMINGO
Calle Cesar A. Sandino
809-533-5875
Nearly everywhere else in the Caribbean, meat patties are half-moon
shaped, but in the Dominican Republic, they’re full circles—but tiny. Here
at this open-air snack stand, where the lunch line often snakes down the
block, three pastelitos are considered a serving. They’re also light when it
comes to heat, as locals prefer a milder flavor, and stuffed with chicken,
ham, corn, garlic, or just lots of gooey cheese.
Jamaica
Known as meat patties here, the Jamaican variety is the spiciest of the
Caribbean, with dialed-up heat thanks to the liberal use of Scotch bonnet
peppers. Look for the characteristically yellow dough, colored with
turmeric, curry, egg yolks, or even food coloring.
SPICY-NICE BAKERY, BROWN’S TOWN
22 Main St.
876-917-9644
Not far from Discovery Bay, this family-owned bakery turns out meat
patties wrapped in flaky pastry that’s much like a croissant. No matter
which filling you choose (vegetable, chicken, or beef), the juicy beef stock
base, made in the style of chili and spiked with Scotch bonnets, keeps the
patties moist.
 JUICI PATTIES, CLARENDON
22 Main Street., May Pen
876-986-4507
It might be a chain, but Juici Patties all started with this location in
Clarendon. And their version is so beloved among locals that it’s branched
into 62 locations across every major Jamaican city. Each outpost has a
modern, fast-food restaurant feel, but continues to source ingredients
from farmers in the vicinity of the restaurant. As for what you’ll get: Don’t
expect a lot of meat inside these beef patties—that’s the Jamaican style.
Instead, the filling is largely onions and Scotch bonnet peppers, sautéed
then pureed.
MISS SONIA’S, NEGRIL
Norman Manley Blvd.
876-296-5068
Miss Sonia made a name for herself by offering more filling options than any
other establishment—ackee (the national fruit of Jamaica), goat, lobster,
shrimp, crab, plus the expected chicken and beef—and for keeping her
methods simple. Thirty years in, she (and her grandson Brian) still heavily
dusts her patties, nearly double the size of the competition’s, in flour before
dropping them in a pot of oil heated over a wood fire. Plus, there’s a certain
charm to pulling up one of the plastic chairs in the outdoor seating area.
To find her, look for the hand-painted sign that proudly proclaims “Great
Tasting Patties” just opposite Negril’s seven-mile stretch of beaches. Or
ask a cab driver to take you—everyone knows Miss Sonia.
Aruba
Called pastechi here, these crescent-shaped snacks in Aruba typically
have a sweeter dough than their Caribbean cousins.
PASTECHI HOUSE, ORANJESTAD
Caya G.F. Betico Croes 42
297-582-4242
Pastries from Pastechi House are so in demand among locals that owner
Justo Lopez lovingly refers to his snack stand as a pastechi factory. To
guarantee consistency, the sweet dough is sent through a roller to become
as thin as possible yet still able to withstand frying, resulting in a pastechi
with a little crunch. Grab the gouda variety, a nod to the island’s Dutch
culture, and allow time to linger on the outdoor patio.
EL GALLO ROJO, SAN NICOLAS
Bernhardstraat and Marktstraat
297-584-8212
This no-frills bakery and bodega in San Nicolas, Aruba’s cultural capital on
the southeastern end of the island, is popular among locals for its pastechis
fried at precisely 325°F in vegetable oil for 40 seconds. Thanks to a crust
that’s lighter on sugar than the typical Aruban variety, these handheld
feasts come out of the fryer tender and pliable (more sugar means crispier
pastechis). b
Photo by David Hanson
 for the Lo v e of

Passed down through generations, cast-iron skillets are the workhorses of

the kitchen— equally perfect for sauteing and baking. Warm up your oven and
try your hand at these sweet and savory treats to take a bite out of winter.
 Pecan Crumble Coffee Cake
page 95

91 bake from scratch

Pear-Almond Cake
page 99
Onion Twist Bread
page 99
Strawberry-Apple Cobbler
page 96
PECAN CRUMBLE COFFEE CAKE
Makes 8 servings
Use a cast-iron wedge pan to create scone-like
portions of this soft and moist coffee cake.
¼ cup (57 grams) butter, softened
½ (8-ounce) package cream cheese,
softened
¾ cup (138 grams) sugar
1 large egg
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder (2 grams)
¼ teaspoon (0.5 grams) salt
¼ cup whole milk
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon (6 grams) cinnamon
Crumb Topping (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9-inch
cast-iron wedge pan.
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and cream
cheese with a mixer at medium speed until
creamy. Gradually add sugar, beating until light
and fluffy. Add egg, beating just until combined.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt. Gradually add flour
mixture to butter mixture alternately with
milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition.
Stir in vanilla. Spoon ⅓ cup batter into a small
bowl, and stir in cinnamon. Pour remaining
batter into wedges. Top each wedge with
cinnamon batter, and swirl with a knife. Sprinkle
with Crumb Topping.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool
for 20 minutes before serving.
Crumb Topping
Makes ⅔ cup
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons (18 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (28 grams) cold butter
¼ cup (32 grams) finely chopped pecans
1. In a small bowl, combine sugar and flour.
Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Stir in
pecans. Refrigerate until ready to use.
PINEAPPLE-CURRY
UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
Make 1 (10-inch) cake
Madras curry and candied ginger give a little heat
to balance out the sweet pineapple in this tropical
twist on a traditional upside-down cake.
1 (3-ounce) package candied ginger, finely
chopped
¾ cup (172 grams) butter, divided
⅓ cup honey, divided
½ teaspoon madras curry
½ fresh pineapple, cored and sliced
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (8 grams) baking powder
1 cup (185 grams) sugar
2 large eggs
½ cup whole milk
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 350°. In a 10-inch cast-
iron skillet, cook ginger, ½ cup (115 grams)
butter, and 3 tablespoons honey over medium
heat, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes.
Transfer mixture into a large bowl, reserving 2
tablespoons mixture in skillet.
2. Add curry, remaining 2⅓ tablespoons honey,
and remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) butter to pan,
and cook until bubbly. Remove from heat;
place pineapple in a fan around pan.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and
baking powder. To ginger mixture, add sugar,
and beat until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Gradually add
flour mixture to ginger mixture alternately with
milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition.
Stir in vanilla. Spoon over pineapple, using a
spatula to smooth out batter to edges of skillet.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
comes out clean, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool in
pan for 10 minutes. Invert cake onto a serving
plate. Drizzle with remaining syrup from pan,
and serve warm.
CHERRY SWEET ROLLS
Makes 2 (9-inch) pans
Give your go-to cinnamon rolls a break. These
fluffy sweet rolls taste like the breakfast version of
cherry pie.
Dough:
¼ cup warm water (100° to 110°)
2 teaspoons (6 grams) active dry yeast
½ cup (93 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (4 grams)
granulated sugar, divided
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4½ cups (630 grams) bread flour
Cherry Filling:
1 (12-ounce) bag frozen dark sweet cherries,
thawed, juice drained and reserved
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (11 grams) cornstarch
⅓ cup cherry preserves
Glaze:
1 cup (185 grams) confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons reserved drained cherry juice
2 tablespoons (28 grams) butter, melted
Brush over hot rolls. Let cool for 30 minutes.
9. For icing: In a medium bowl, whisk together
confectioners’ sugar, milk, and vanilla until
smooth; drizzle over rolls.
STRAWBERRY-APPLE COBBLER
Make 6 servings
There’s no need to wait for summer to enjoy
cobbler right out of the oven. This strawberry-
apple version warms up cold, winter days.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and remaining ½ cup (92
grams) sugar. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks,
cut in remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) butter until
mixture is crumbly. Gradually add cream and
vanilla, stirring just until dry ingredients are
moistened.
4. Divide dough into 5 equal parts, and drop on
top of cobbler. Bake until browned and bubbly,
about 25 minutes, covering with foil to prevent
excess browning.

Icing: 1 (16-ounce) package frozen strawberries,

1½ cups (278 grams) confectioners’ sugar thawed
4 tablespoons whole milk 3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch
½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup (184 grams) sugar, divided
½ cup (114 grams) butter, divided
1. For dough: In a 1-cup glass measuring cup, 2 Granny Smith apples, sliced
stir together ¼ cup water, yeast, and 1 teaspoon 1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour
(4 grams) granulated sugar; let stand for 5 2 teaspoons (8 grams) baking powder
minutes. 1 cup heavy whipping cream
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
paddle attachment, beat butter at medium
speed until creamy. Gradually add salt and 1. Preheat oven to 400°.
remaining ½ cup (93 grams) granulated sugar 2. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, combine
until light and fluffy. Add eggs, milk, and lemon strawberries, cornstarch, and ½ cup (92 grams)
juice, beating until combined. Stir in yeast sugar. Cook over medium heat until bubbly and
mixture. Gradually add flour to butter mixture, thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat,
beating at low speed until well combined, about and stir in ¼ cup (57 grams) butter and apples.
2 minutes. Set aside.
3. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough,
and knead for 5 minutes. Spray a large bowl
with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
turning to grease top. Cover and let stand in a
warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in
size, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
4. For cherry filling: In a medium saucepan,
combine cherries, granulated sugar, and
cornstarch. Cook over medium heat, stirring
constantly, until bubbly and thickened, 3 to
4 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in
preserves. Let cool completely.
5. Grease 2 (9-inch) cast-iron skillets.
6. Lightly punch down dough. On a lightly
floured surface, roll dough into a 14x10-inch
rectangle. Spread cherry mixture over dough.
Starting at one long side, roll up dough, jelly-
roll style, and press edge to seal. Slice into 12
rolls, and place into prepared pans. Cover and
let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
doubled in size, about 45 minutes.
7. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake, uncovered,
until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool
in pans for 5 minutes.
8. For glaze: In a small bowl, combine
confectioners’ sugar, cherry juice, and butter.
 Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake
page 95

97 bake from scratch

Cherry Sweet Rolls
page 95
PEAR-ALMOND CAKE
Makes 6 servings
This rich, almondy cake is a showstopper perfect
for dinner parties. Yet it’s so easy you can whip it
up for a mid-afternoon weekday treat.
1 cup (227 grams) butter, softened
1½ cups (278 grams) granulated sugar
3 large eggs
2 cups (140 grams) all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon (0.5 grams) salt
⅓ cup whole milk
½ teaspoon almond extract
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large red pear, cut into 12 thin slices
½ cup sliced almonds
Confectioners’ sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9-inch
cast-iron skillet.
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and granulated
sugar with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy,
3 to 4 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape
down sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating just until combined after each addition.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and salt.
Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture
alternately with milk, beginning and ending
with flour mixture, beating just until combined
after each addition. Beat in almond extract and
vanilla. Spoon batter into prepared pan. Place
pears cut side down in a pinwheel fashion over
batter.
4. Bake until lightly browned, about 20
minutes. Sprinkle with almonds, and bake until
a wooden pick inserted in center comes out
clean, about 10 minutes more. Let cool in pan
for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with confectioners’
sugar, and serve warm.
ONION TWIST BREAD
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Sweet onions, roasted garlic, and cheese give this
fluffy and light dough a savory twist. Serve it in
place of traditional dinner rolls to amp up your
bread basket.
Dough:
¼ cup warm water (100° to 110°)
2 teaspoons (6 grams) active dry yeast
3 cups (420 grams) bread flour
¼ cup (46 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt (6 grams)
¼ cup (57 grams) butter, softened
1 cup whole milk
1 large egg
Filling:
1 head garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
¼ cup (57 grams) butter, softened
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1. For dough: In a medium bowl, stir together
¼ cup warm water and yeast; let stand for 5
minutes.
2. In a large bowl, stir together flour, sugar, and
salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter at medium
speed until creamy. Add yeast mixture and ¼
flour mixture, beating until smooth. Add ¼ flour
mixture, milk, and egg, and beat until smooth.
Add remaining flour mixture, and beat until
smooth.
3. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough,
and knead 10 to 12 times. Spray a large bowl
with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
turning to grease top. Cover and let stand in a
warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in
size, 1½ hours to 2 hours.
4. For filling: Preheat oven to 400°. Cut
¼ inch off top of garlic, and wrap garlic in
foil. Bake until soft, about 1 hour. Let cool
completely. Press garlic head, and remove
roasted garlic; set aside.
5. In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium
heat. Add onion, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until onion is caramel in color, 20 to 25
minutes. Let cool completely.
6. In the work bowl of a food processor,
combine onion, roasted garlic paste, butter,
thyme, and cheese. Process until mixture forms
a smooth, thick paste, 2 to 3 minutes.
7. On a heavily floured surface, roll dough to a
14x10-inch rectangle. Spread onion filling over
dough, leaving a 1-inch border on long sides.
Starting at one long side, roll up dough, jelly-
roll style, and press edge to seal. Using a sharp
knife, cut roll in half lengthwise. Carefully twist
dough pieces around each other, and form into
a circle. Using a cake lifter, place dough into a
greased 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Cover and
let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
doubled in size, about 1 hour.
8. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake for 30 minutes.
Cover with foil and bake until a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, about
40 minutes more. Serve warm. b
TURKISH
DELIGHTS

One expat home cook keeps the flavors

of her native land alive with this
collection of sweets and pastries
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / FOOD STYLING BY NATHAN CARRABBA
Nejla’s Yogurt Dessert
page 108
 Noah’s Pudding
page 108

103 bake from scratch

turks are known
for their sweet tooth.
From Istanbul to Izmir, dessert shops called tatlici dot
the streetscape, hawking everything from nut-laden baklava
to rosewater-laced confections. Nejla Orgen, born in Ankara,
now claims Auburn, Alabama, as her home—and has for the past
34 years. There, she and her husband, Tarik, raised two boys and worked
at Auburn University, she in international admissions and student life, he
in architecture. Though she’s now been away from Turkey longer than
she ever lived there, she returns often to visit friends and family. “I can’t
diet in that country,” she says. “You’re constantly encountering desserts
dripping with syrup in the tatlici shops. It’s like a pick-me-up food. You
pop in, have a Turkish coffee, and get a sugar high.”

When she can’t make it back to the land of the crescent moon, Nejla’s
cooking—both sweet and savory—keeps her connected to her roots. And
over the decades she’s made a name for herself for her dinner parties and
potluck contributions. In Auburn, if Nejla invites you to eat, you simply
don’t say no.

Because she’s been cooking Turkish food out of American grocery stores for
so long, Nejla has taken the guesswork out of the recipes, eliminating hard-
to-find ingredients and adapting to standard American measurements. On
the following pages, you’ll find a few of her favorite sweets, plus one savory
hand pie that’s perfect for breakfast or afternoon tea.
105 bake from scratch
 PRO TIP: Make & Freeze
These are best when served
Pogaça warm. They can be prepared
ahead of time and frozen.
NEJLA’S YOGURT DESSERT
Makes 20 slices
This dessert is Nejla’s modification to revani, a
syrupy sponge cake found throughout Turkey.
She’s omitted the gritty semolina flour found in
most revani, to yield a softer, spongier version that
absorbs more of the sugar syrup.
4 cups water
4½ cups (833 grams) sugar, divided
½ teaspoon lemon juice
3 large eggs
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
Garnish: prepared whipped cream, halved fresh
strawberries, finely ground pistachios
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups water,
3½ cups (648 grams) sugar, and lemon juice
to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring
occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Remove
from heat, and let cool completely.
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 13x9-inch
baking pan.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and
remaining 1 cup (185 grams) sugar; add yogurt.
4. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking
soda, and baking powder; add to egg mixture,
and beat with a mixer at medium speed until
fully incorporated. Pour batter into prepared
pan (smoothing top if necessary). Bake until
a wooden pick inserted in center comes out
clean, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven,
and let cool for 5 minutes.
5. Cut cake into 2-inch squares. Place squares
on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Spread squares
out on pans, allowing plenty of space between
squares. Pour half of cooled syrup over each
pan of cake squares. (Both cake and syrup
should still be warm, but not hot.) The cake will
soak up the liquid, and each square needs room
to expand.
6. Let sit for 1 hour; turn squares upside down.
Leave them on pans until most of the syrup has
been absorbed. Then flip the squares back up.
7. Garnish with whipped cream, fresh
strawberries, and finely ground pistachios, if
desired.
NOAH’S PUDDING
Makes 12 cup-size portions
It’s said that when the flood subsided, Noah
created this dessert by using up all of the grains
and dried fruits left on the Ark. Tradition dictates
that you make large quantities whenever you cook
this pudding and share it with family, friends, and
neighbors.
1 cup (180 grams) hulled wheat
½ cup (92 grams) long-grain rice
12 cups water
1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained
1 (15.5-ounce) can great Northern beans,
drained
2½ cups (463 grams) sugar
1 cup (158 grams) golden raisins
1 cup (138 grams) blanched almonds,
chopped
½ cup (78 grams) chopped dried apricots
⅓ cup (52 grams) chopped dried figs
1 tablespoon rose water (optional)
⅓ cup milk
1 cup cold water
Garnish: chopped walnuts, pomegranate seeds,
fresh figs
1. Soak wheat and rice overnight.
2. In a large stockpot, combine wheat, rice, and
12 cups water. Cook over medium heat until
tender, about 1 hour.
3. Remove skin from chickpeas by rubbing in
your hands; discard skin. Add chickpeas and
beans to pot. Simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Stir in sugar; add raisins, almonds, apricots,
figs, and rose water. Add milk, and simmer for 5
to 10 minutes.
5. Stir in 1 cup cold water, and remove from
heat. Pour mixture into individual bowls. Pudding
will thicken as it cools. Garnish with walnuts,
pomegranate seeds, and figs, if desired.
POĞAÇA
Makes 16
Pronounced po-atcha. These half-moon shaped
hand pies are typically stuffed with feta and
parsley and served at breakfast or tea time. Turks
love tea—or çay (pronounced chai)—and no
matter where you go, whether buying carpets in
a store or sitting in someone’s home, you will be
offered a small glass of Turkish çay. These savory
bites are the perfect accompaniment.
2 cups (280 grams)
all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (8 grams)
baking powder
1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt
½ cup (115 grams) butter,
softened
1¼ cups (281 grams) cream
cheese, softened and divided
1 whole egg plus 1 egg, separated
½ cup (110 grams) feta cheese,
crumbled
½ cup parsley, finely chopped
Garnish: sesame seeds
1. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking
powder, and salt. Make a well in dry ingredients,
and add butter, 1 cup (226 grams) cream
cheese, 1 whole egg, and 1 egg white. Mix
ingredients with your hands to make a soft
dough. Dough should not stick to hands.
Sprinkle with additional flour if too sticky.
Cover bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand for
20 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease 2 baking
sheets.
3. In a medium bowl, stir together feta, parsley,
and remaining ¼ cup (55 grams) cream cheese.
4. Shape dough into 16 (40-ounce) balls.
Press each ball into a circle about 3 inches in
diameter. Put a small amount of cheese filling
on one half of each circle, and fold other half
over to cover.
5. Place on prepared pans. Brush tops with egg
yolk. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake until
tops are golden brown, about 30 minutes.
winter 2016 108
 PRO TIP: Working with Phyllo
One-pound phyllo packages often
come as two half-pound sets of pastry
sheets. Open only one at a time to
keep the pastry from drying out.

109 bake from scratch

BAKLAVA
Makes approximately 44 pieces

In Turkey, you’d really only make baklava for big occasions.

Otherwise, you’d hit one of the tatlici dessert shops. Nejla’s
version uses salted butter—most recipes call for unsalted—
because she likes the tanginess the salt adds. She opts for
walnuts over pistachios simply because walnuts tend to be
cheaper and easier to find, but you can make yours with
pistachios or pecans if you prefer.

1¾ cups (423 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar,

divided
1½ cups water
½ teaspoon lemon juice
1 pound (457 grams) walnuts
1 (16-ounce) package frozen phyllo pastry, thawed
1 cup (227 grams) salted butter, melted

1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1¾ cups sugar and 1½

cups water to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat,
and simmer for 5 minutes. Add lemon juice; simmer 5
minutes more. Remove from heat, and set aside to let
cool.
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Brush a 13x9-inch baking pan
with melted butter.
3. In the container of a blender or in the work bowl
of a food processor, chop walnuts until finely ground
but not pulverized. Place nuts in a medium bowl; toss
with remaining 1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar until well
combined.
4. Unfold phyllo pastry. Cut sheets in half to fit in
prepared pan. Use only 1 sheet at a time, and keep
remaining sheets well covered at all times to prevent them
from drying out. (See Pro Tip.)
5. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo in prepared pan. Using a pastry
brush, brush phyllo with melted butter until completely
covered. Lay another sheet of phyllo on top. Repeat
process until you have used half the package of phyllo.
Top with ⅓ of walnut-sugar mixture.
6. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo on top of walnut-sugar mixture,
and brush with butter. Lay another sheet, and top with ⅓
of walnut-sugar mixture. Lay another sheet, and brush
with butter. Lay another sheet, and top with remaining ⅓
of walnut-sugar mixture. Continue layering and buttering
sheets until all phyllo has been used.
7. Using a sharp knife, cut 2-inch straight lines across pan,
being careful to go only halfway through layers of pastry
and filling. Then cut diagonal lines. Cut intersecting lines
lengthwise to form diamond shapes.
8. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove from oven, and let stand
for 10 minutes. Pour cooled syrup over warm baklava. Let
stand for several hours. Recut pieces before serving, this
time going all the way through to bottom of the pastry. b
 Cake K ings FIT FOR

In France, friends and family break bread

every January with a traditional
galette des rois
BY JENNIFER V. COLE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE

PHOTO STYLING BY BETH K. SEELEY
T  he quietly unassuming cousin to the king cake, the galette des rois enters the pastry scene
at the tail end of the holiday season. For centuries, this golden round of puff pastry and
rich almond frangipane has marked Epiphany or Twelfth Night, a January 6 celebration
of the three kings (or wise men) arriving in Bethlehem. In fact, the French government, who has
never shied away from their role in defining the eating and drinking habits of the nation, traces
the tradition back to early Roman times. Though it might lack the live-out-loud vivacity of its
New Orleans cousin (colored sugar, thick cream cheese filling, encircled by Mardi Gras beads), this
traditional galette is the center of gatherings among family and friends all throughout January,
and often up until March. In its very French way, it is classic, simple, refined—consider it the little
black dress of holiday desserts.

During the doldrums of winter, when the post-Christmas hangover of good cheer starts to
subside, people routinely issue invitations to pop around for a slice of galette des rois and a glass
of cider or sweet white wine. Less involved than a dinner party, more casual than cocktails, the
often impromptu nature of this January ritual coaxes a familial vibe out of an often formal society.
Though the puff pastry version with its creamy almond filling is the most common, southern
France tends to celebrate with a brioche cake flavored with the essence of orange flower, shaped
into a crown, and topped with red fruits and sugar.

Tradition dictates that a small fève, or bean, is baked within the cake. And it is customary to cut
the galette into precisely enough pieces for everyone gathered to have a slice, plus one more. That
extra piece, known as the “part du pauvre,” should go to the first poor person who knocks on the
door—a nod to the giving spirit of the kings. These days, the bean has mostly been replaced by a
small porcelain figurine, and whoever finds it is named king (or queen) for the day—assuming
they don’t end up with a different sort of crown by biting too hastily. For children, finding the fève
ranks right up there with winning the lottery. It grants adults the privilege of buying (or making)
the next galette, like a sugar-fueled game of tag, with cakes. It’s said that, in the royal French court,
if a lady found the fève, she was named queen of France for the day and could ask the king to
grant her a special wish. Supposedly Louis XIV, the Sun King, put an end to that. That’s
probably a good thing. These days, bakers assemble each year to create a massive
galette (enough to feed 150 people) at the Élysée Palace. But the baker and
pastry chef are forbidden from putting a fève into the cake. After all,
you can’t have a king in the presidential palace of the Republic.
Certainly not one crowned by letting them eat cake. b
our obsession

Kouign Amann (pronounced kween a-MAHN)

o What It Is € Why We Love It

A kouign amann is a traditional pastry from Brittany, France, that’s like a cross between It is tender, chewy, flaky, and crispy—
a croissant and a brioche, and is packed with obscene amounts of butter. It is made by a palm-sized affair of sweetened dough,
folding sheets of dough on top of each other, with butter and sugar spread between the balanced with a hint of salt from the butter,
layers. It’s typically crowned with sugar that caramelizes when baked. that checks all the pastry boxes.

The Little Tart Bakeshop
Atlanta, GA
French-inspired bakery in Atlanta’s Grant
Park neighborhood, where the flaky
kouign amann, burnished with sugar, pairs
perfectly with a pour-over coffee from
Octane, a local roaster that shares space
with the Little Tart.
littletartatl.com
E Where to Find It
b. patisserie
San Francisco, CA
Lower Pacific Heights shop where Belinda
Leong has developed a cult following for her
kouign amann, from the traditional Breton
variety to her vibrant twists (pineapple-pink
peppercorn, chocolate-hazelnut, trio of
seasonal fruits).
bpatisserie.com
Les Madeleines
Salt Lake City, UT
Open since 2003, the first bakery west of
the Mississippi to sell the Breton pastry.
Here, chef Romina Rasmussen is known
for her touch, which yields an airy yet
crunchy variety.
lesmadeleines.com

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