Department of Science and Technology

PHILIPPINE TEXTILE RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Natural Dyeing of
Indigenous Fibers Abaca
(Musa Textiles )
 MANDATE

●
Conduct applied research and development for the
textile industry sector;
●
Undertake the transfer of completed researches to
end-users or via linkage units of other government
agencies;
●
Undertake technical services and provide training
programs.
 TRAINING ACTIVITIES

1 s t P a r t – S c o u r in g / B le a c h in g

2 n d P a r t – S y n t h e t ic D y e in g

3 r d P a r t – N a t u r a l D y e in g
 HOW TO DO SCOURING/BLEACHING

1 . W e ig h f ib e r s
2 . C o m p u t e f o r t h e v o lu m e o f w a t e r u s in g liq u o r r a t io ( L R )
1 :5 0
3 . C o m p u te a n d w e ig h c h e m ic a ls n e e d e d :
H y d r o g e n p e r o x id e , 5 0 % - 9 g / L
S o d iu m s ilic a t e - 2 g / L
S o d a a s h -2 g /L
D e te r g e n t- 0 .5 g /L
4 . B o il t h e c o m p u t e d v o lu m e o f w a te r
5 . A d d s o d a a s h , s o d iu m s ilic a t e , d e te rg e n t and
f ib e r / m a t e r ia l.
6 . A d d t h e f ib e r s a n d h y d r o g e n p e r o x id e w h e n t h e s o lu tio n
b o ils .
7 . B o il f o r 3 0 - 4 5 m in u t e s .
8 . D r a in , w a s h a n d p r e p a r e n e u t r a liz a t io n .
 NEUTRALIZATION

1 . M e a s u r e t h e s a m e a m o u n t o f w a t e r u s in g liq u o r
r a t io ( L R ) 1 : 5 0 , 1 : 2 0 o r 1 : 3 0 .
2 . A d d 2 m l/ L g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id a n d m ix t h o r o u g h ly ,
th e n a d d s c o u r e d / b le a c h e d m a t e r ia l.
3 . S o a k f o r 2 0 m in u t e s a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e .
4 . D r a in t h e s o lu t io n , w a s h a n d d r y t h e m a t e r ia l.
 Sample Calculation for (Scouring/Bleaching)
W e ig h t o f m a t e r ia l = 5 k ilo g r a m s
L iq u o r r a t io ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( lit e r s - k ilo g r a m s )
V o lu m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r ia ls x L R
= 5 k g x 2 0 L /k g
= 1 0 0 lite r s
W e ig h t o f h y d r o g e n p e r o x id e = 9 g / L it e r x 1 0 0 L it e r s
= 9 0 0 g ram s
W e ig h t o f s o d a a s h = 2 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 2 0 0 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f s o d iu m s ilic a t e = 2 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 2 0 0 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f n o n - io n ic = 0 . 5 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 5 0 g ram s
V o lu m e o f a c e t ic a c id = 2 m l/ L x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 200 m l
 FLOW PROCESS
S o d iu m S ilic a t e , S o d a
A s h , N o n - io n ic D e t e r g e n t
I n d ig e n o u s F ib e r s
A t b o il f o r 3 0 - 4 5
m in , H y d r o g e n
P e r o x id e , 5 0 %

W a te r L R 1 :5 0 R in s e 3 x

NEUTRALIZATION
2 m L / L g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id
b le a c h e d f ib e r s

R in s e , d r y
2 0 m in a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e
 Purpose of Dyeing

• T o im p a r t a t t r a c t iv e h u e o n t h e m a t e r ia l

• T o e n h a n c e t h e a e s t h e t ic q u a lit y o f m a t e r ia l

• T o in c r e a s e t h e v a lu e o r c o s t

• T o c o p e u p w it h t h e g r o w in g d e m a n d o f f a s h io n

• T o s u r v iv e in t h e g r o w in g c o m p e t it io n in t h e
g lo b a l m a r k e t .
 What is Dyeing?

- D y e i n g is t h e p r o c e s s o f im p a r t in g c o lo r o n t h e f ib e r s .

S c o u r e d / B le a c h e d
I n d ig e n o u s F ib e r

D y e in g (w ith b lu e d y e )

D yed
F ib e r s
 How to do Basic Dyeing?

W e ig h f ib e r s / m a t e r ia l
C o m p u t e v o lu m e o f w a t e r u s in g t h e liq u o r r a t io o f
1 :2 0 , 1 :3 0 o r 1 :5 0 .

C o m p u t e a n d m e a s u r e t h e a m o u n t o f o t h e r c h e m ic a ls n e e d e d

R e c ip e :

B a s ic d y e - x % ( w e ig h t o f f ib e r / m a t e r ia l) p a s t e d
w it h e q u a l a m o u n t o f 4 0 % a c e t ic a c id
G l a u b e r ’s s a l t ( S o d i u m S u l f a t e ) - 1 0 g / L
G la c ia l A c e t ic A c id – 2 m l/ L
M easure am ount of w ater needed.

A d d g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id . S o a k m a t e r ia l in t h e s o lu t io n f o r 1 0
m in u t e s

A d d p r e - d is s o lv e d d y e . S t ir .

B r in g t h e s o lu t io n t o b o il.

A d d p r e - d i s s o l v e d g l a u b e r ’ s o r c o m m o n s a lt . M a i n t a i n t h e
b o ilin g t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 3 0 - 4 5 m in u t e s .

D r a in , w a s h , r in s e u n t il w a t e r is c le a r . A ir d r y

N o t e : T o h a v e a le v e l d y e in g o r t o a v o i d u n e v e n d y e in g , take out the

m a t e r ia l in e v e r y a d d it io n o f d y e s o r c h e m ic a l
 Sample Calculation for Production
(Basic Dyeing)

W e ig h t o f m a t e r ia l = 5 k ilo g r a m s
L iq u o r r a t io ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( k ilo g r a m s - lit e r )
V o lu m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r ia ls x L R
= 5 k g x 2 0 k g /L
= 1 0 0 lite r s
W e ig h t o f g la u b e r ’s s a lt = 1 0 g / L it e r x 1 0 0 L it e r s
= 1 0 00 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id = 2 m l/ / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 200 m l
W e ig h t o f d y e ( 2 . 5 % ) = 2 .5 % /1 0 0 x 5 0 0 0 g ra m s
= 1 2 5 g ram s
W e ig h t o f 4 0 % a c e t ic a c id = 1 2 5 g ram s
 Flow Process for Basic Dyeing

G la u b e r ’s s a lt

3 0 - 4 5 m in a t b o il
d y e s tu ff

1 0 m in R in s e ( 3 x )
W a te r (L R 1 :5 0 )
g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id
to p H 4 -5
in d ig e n o u s f ib e r s
 What is Color matching?

C o lo r m a t c h in g is th e s y s t e m w h e r e in y o u c a n
fo r m u la t e s h a d e /s b y u s in g s m a ll q u a n titie s o f
s a m p le /s b y u s in g t h e tr ia l a n d e r r o r m e th o d in
o b ta in in g th e d e s ir e d s h a d e /s .
T o v is u a liz e c o lo r s h a d e s h e r e a r e s o m e c o lo r c o m b in a t io n s t o c o n s id e r :

F r o m P r im a r y C o lo r s T o S e c o n d a r y C o lo r s

+
red b lu e v io le t

+
red y e llo w orange

+
b lu e y e llo w green

N o te th a t in th is p a r tic u la r c o lo r c o m b in a tio n s th e r e is N O S p e c ific P e r c e n ta g e o f e a c h c o lo r .

 Procedures on Color matching

1 . P r e p a r e s to c k s o lu tio n s o f d y e s tu ffs to b e u s e d fo r C o lo r
m a t c h in g ( e x a m p le : 1 % s t o c k s o lu t io n m e a n s : 1 g r a m o f
d y e s t u f f t o b e d is s o lv e in 1 0 0 m l w a t e r ) .
2 . P r e p a r e s e v e r a l s a m p le s f o r c o lo r m a tc h in g f r o m th e m a t e r ia ls
t o b e u s e d in d y e in g o r p r o d u c t io n .
3 . C o m p u t e f o r t h e a u x ilia r ie s a n d d y e s t u f f s in a c c o r d a n c e t o
f o r m u la g iv e n f o r e a c h c o lo r o f t h e d e s ir e d s h a d e .
4 . C o m p u t e v o lu m e o f w a t e r s in g liq u o r r a t io ( L R ) 1 : 1 0 0 .
5 . M e a s u r e v o lu m e o f c o m p u t e d d y e s t u f f s f r o m t h e s t o c k s o lu t io n
u s in g p ip e t t e s .
6 . A d d v o lu m e o f m e a s u r e d d y e s t u f f s a n d s u b t r a c t it f r o m t h e
c o m p u t e d v o lu m e o f w a t e r.
7 . P r o c e e d t o d y e in g p r o c e s s .
• A f t e r d r y in g , c o m p a r e r e s u lt s w it h s w a t c h .
9 . R e p e a t t r ia ls o f a d ju s t m e n t o f o n e d y e s t u f f a f t e r t h e o t h e r u n t il
s u c h t im e r e s u lt w ill b e t h e s a m e w it h t h e d e s ir e d s h a d e .
1 0 . F in a l r e c ip e m u s t b e f ille d f o r r e f e r e n c e s .
Sample Calculation for Color matching

Example : Apple Green

Use : Stock solution – 1.0% each dyes
Weight of sample – 10 grams
Liquor ratio – 1:100
Recipe : Astrazon Blue A-BG – 0.10%
Astrazon Yellow A-8GL – 0.50%
Computations : Blue – 0.10%/100% x wt. Sample x stock solution
therefore 0.001 x 10 gms x 100 ml water/1 gm
blue dye
= 1 ml
Yellow – 0.50%/100% x 10 gms x 100 ml water/
1 gm yellow dye
= 5 ml
Total Dyestuffs : 6 ml
Volume : 100 ml – 6 ml
= 94 ml (actual volume of water)
 NATURAL DYEING
(3 Steps)

How to Do the Extraction?

1. Chopped or grind the dye source (ex. Dulaw).

2. Weigh.
3. Compute and measure the volume of water using
liquor ratio 1:30.
4. Boil the chopped/grind dye source in the water.
5. Filter and set aside.
 How to Do the Mordanting?

1. Weigh the materials.

2. Compute and weigh the mordant (ex. Alum, CuSO4 & FeSO4 )
to be used. Mordant is 5% on the weight of the materials.
3. Compute and measure the volume of water using liquor ratio
1:30.
4. Boil the water. Add the mordant.
5. Soak the materials in the solution. Boil for 30 min. Stir.
6. Drain and set aside the mordanted materials.
 How to Do Natural Dyeing?

1. Soak the mordanted material in the dye extract.

2. Boil the material in the dye extract for 15 minutes or longer
depending on the dye source.
3. Drain, wash and dry.
 LISTS OF SOME IDENTIFIED DYE SOURCES

B o ta n ic a l N a m e S c ie n tif ic N a m e P a r ts U se d C o lo r it I m p a r t s

A c h u e te B ix a o r e lla n a L . se e d s lig h t o r a n g e ,
y e llo w o r a n g e

B u lu b u lu E v o d ia b in t o k o le a v e s g r a y ,b r o w n ,
B la n c o y e llo w is h b r o w n

D u h a t S y z ig i u m c u m in i b a r k b r o w n
L . S k e e ls

F ic u s s e p tic a
H a w ili u r m . F . v a r. le a v e s b la c k , g r a y
s e p tic a
I n d ig o f e r a
I n d ig o tin c to r ia l le a v e s b lu e

P i t h c e l l o b iu m
K a m a c h ille d u lc e (R o x b ) b a r k b r o w n

C e ib a
K a p o k p e n ta n d r a L . b a r k p in k to p in k is h
G a e r tn . b r o w n

L ig h t b r o w n ,
L u a m T e c t o n a g r a n d is L . le a v e s v io le t

C u r cu m a lo n g g a
L u y a n g D ila w L in n . r h iz o m e s y e llo w

C a s e s a l p in i a p u r p le /v io le t,
S ib u k a o /S a p a n sa p p a n L . w o o d m a r o o n , p in k ,
p e a c h
T e r m i n a l ia
T a lis a y c a ta p p a L . le a v e s b la c k , g r a y
 T h an k Y o u

O f f ic e : D e p a r t m e n t o f S c ie n c e a n d T e c h n o lo g y
P h i lip p in e T e x t i le R e s e a r c h In s t it u t e
A d d r e s :s : G e n S a n t o s A v e . B i c u t a n , T a g u i g M e t r o M a n i l a

T e le fa x : 8 3 7 -1 3 2 5 ; 8 3 7 -1 3 3 8 ; 8 3 7 -1 1 5 7

U RL : h t t p ://w w w . p t r i. d o s t . g o v . p h
E m a il : p t r i@ d o s t . g o v . p h