2016

HI - TECH TEXTILE L.L.C. ,

( JORDAN )

APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

Studied the supply chain of the apparel industry, role, and cross functionality.
Interdependence of responsibilities of departments to identify the loop holes for
process optimization. Performed line and motion study and helped to reduce the
production time. Presented a plant layout proposal.

SUBMITTED BY :
HARSH K. TOMAR - MUM13AP34
&
MANISH SINGH - MUM13AP22

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF

MR. RANJAN K. SAHA
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY , ( MUMBAI )
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to thank Mr. Nasrullah Khan, Merchandising and marketing

manager at Hi-Tech textile, Jordan for giving us this wonderful opportunity to do an
internship within the organization. For us it was a unique experience to be in Jordan
and to study the factory operation of Denim Export Company. It helped in a great way
in triggering our interest in factory operations and management of Apparel Business.

We are highly thankful to our distinctive faculty mentor Mr. Ranjan K. Saha, under
whose guidance we were able to complete our Apparel Internship Successfully.

Last but not the least we are extremely thankful to Department of Fashion Technology,
NIFT MUMBAI for providing us this wonderful leaning experience and opportunity.

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 CERTIFICATE

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 CERTIFICATE

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 PREFACE
This report is written as a part of our Apparel Internship project for our bachelor of
Fashion Technology at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.
Part of the education is to get the first hands on experience about garment
manufacturing from a manufacturing plant. Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C. gave us a chance to
do a research and analyse their production process. For 3 months period, we stayed in
Jordan to perform these studies which was a fantastic opportunity for us. Jordan has a
Free Trade Treaty with United States of America and Canada with this document we
would like to show some light upon the manufacturing practices in this part of the
world.

We would like to thank everyone who helped us in this project.

Special Thanks goes to:

T.S. Prakash – Faculty NIFT, Mumbai

Ranjan K. Saha –Mentor-Faculty NIFT, Mumbai
Ajith K. Khare –Prof. NIFT, Mumbai
Kavita Pathare –CC DFT Mumbai
Ajith Sir –Factory Manager, M.K. garments, Jordan
Nasrullah Khan –Industry Mentor-Hi-Tech Textile, Jordan
Ali Imran –Director- Hi-Tech Textile, Jordan

Jordan was a perfect opportunity for us to develop the knowledge and know how of
factory operations in garment sector. It was a great Opportunity to implement the
knowledge we gained at university in a professional organization. An International
Learning and working experience was a great fun. What really surprised us was the
hospitality of the Jordan Culture. It really was a warm welcome and we would love to
experience it again one day.

Hope you’ll enjoy reading our report

Harsh k. Tomar & Manish Singh

NIFT – Mumbai, September 2016

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 INDEX
INTRODUCTION …………………………………………………..…………………………. 07

COMPANY PROFILE ……………………………..………………………………………..... 07

PLANT AREA …………………………............................……………………………………09

ORGANISATION STRUCTURE….……………………………..………………………….....10

OVERVIEW OF MATERIAL FLOW…………………................……………...……………..11

DEPARTMENT OVERVIEW………….....……………………………………...……………..12

MERCHANDISING……………………………………………………………...……..………..12

SAMPLING………………………………………………………………………………….…...15

CAD……………………………………………………………………..……………………..…19

ACCESSORY & TRIM STORE…………………………………………………………….….22

FABRIC STORE…………………………………………………….…………………........….24

SPREADING AND CUTTING………………………………………………...……………….26

PRODUCTION (SEWING) FLOOR…………………..............……………………………...30

WASHING UNIT ( R- TEX )…………………………………………………….……………...32

QUALITY CONTROL .......................................................................................................34

FINISHING AND PACKAGING………………………………………………………….….…39

MAINTENANCE………………………………………………………………..……………….42

EMBROIDERY…………………………………………………………………..……………...44

COMMERCIAL…………………………………………………………………..……………...48

LOGISTICS……………………………………..………………………………..……………...50

LEARNING…..…………………………………………………………………..……………...52

EMBROIDERY…………………………………………………………………..……………...44

PROJECT……………………….……………………………………………………………....60

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INTRODUCTION

Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C., Jordan was founded in the May of year 2000 by the Home furnishing giant
Fair Deal Textiles Group (estb. 1960) in Ad-Dulayl Industrial Park (QIZ), Jordan. The Company
focuses exclusively on Casual and Formal bottoms manufacturing, Designing, Embroidery, Dry &
Wet process and application’s.

Their production has now reached nearly 4,00,000Pcs./ month.

The Factory is Located 70km away from Amman, the Capital of Jordan and 90km away from
the Queen-Alia International Airport.
The Company Subsidiaries includes 1 separate unit specialised for Knits, T-Shirts, Jackets etc.
named Apparel Concepts L.L.C. (Al-Dulayl Industrial Park), 1 Unit in Ajloun, Jordan named
Casual Apparel L.L.C. and 1 unit in Egypt named Hi-Tech Textile Egypt. They are the creators
to some of the best names in the readymade garments industry (USA Market). The
readymade garments for United States market are well taken care by the company which
manages some of the best international brands like GLORIA VANDERBILT, JESSICA SIMPSON,
RALPH LAUREN etc. Today, The Annual turnover of the company reaches upto $70 Million
USD.

COMPANY PROFILE
Amman has a trade pact with Washington and Ottawa that makes export from Jordan to North
American Duty free and banking on this particular advantages More than 90% of their exports
market in North America, they deals with their buyer either directly or via buying houses situated
in Amman, Hong Kong and New Delhi.

Company Hi - Tech Textile L.L.C., Al - Dulayl, Jordan

Year of establishment 2000

Products produced Female bottoms
Business type Manufacturer, Partner
Industry focus Bottoms(specialty: Trousers, Denim Jeans)
Geographic Markets 100 % Export to U.S.A
Mode of fabrication 100% outsourced
Total Area 10088 sq. metre
Total Workforce 2500
Annual turnover $65 - $70 million USD
Production/day 16000 Pcs/day

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GARMENT EXPORT

The company manages some of the best international brands hold by One Jeanswear Group.
Their brands are:

1. LEI 11. KOHL'S

2. GLO 12. MACY'S
3. GLORIA VANDERBILT 13. NINE WEST
4. JESSICA SIMPSON 14. ANNE KLEIN
5. PERRY ELLIS 15. BANDOLINO
6. RAPLH LAUREN 16. RAFAELLA
7. KENNETH COLE 17. ALFANI
8. GREG NORMAN 18. SAM'S CLUB
9. SEARS 19. AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS
10. WALMART

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 PLANT AREA

Plant Area Area

Total Plot Area 10088 Sq. Mtr.
Total Plant Area (Including Cafeteria,
16017.87 Sq. Mtr.
Production Floor& Washing)
Total Covered Area (Wall To Wall) 6800 Sq. Mtr.

Department-wise Area Distribution

Department Area
Main Office 428.48 Sq. Mtr.
Sampling Room 440.48 Sq. Mtr.
Cutting Dept. 865.2 Sq. Mtr.
Accessory & Trim Store 426.42 Sq. Mtr.
Fabric Store 867.07 Sq. Mtr.
Preparation & Food Storage Room 525.85 Sq. Mtr.
Finishing Dept. 1868.4 Sq. Mtr.
Finished Goods Area 490.6 Sq. Mtr.
Embroidery Dept. 287 Sq. Mtr.
Sewing Floor 3440.2 Sq. Mtr.
Washing 997 Sq. Mtr.
Canteen 1492.67 Sq. Mtr.

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 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

Mr. Ali Imran

(Director / General Manager)

Mr. Nasrullah Mr. Laeqe ur. Mr. Qazi Mr. K.

Mr. Mubeen Mr. Manohar Mr. Arif Khan
Khan Rehman Pervaiz
(Merchandising
Poojari (Cutting Head) (Finishing Head)
(Accounts/Finance
(Planning Head) (HR Head) (Production Head) Head)
Head)

Mr. Mobiun
Mr. Qamar Khan (Factory FLoor
(Assist. PLanner) Manager)

Mr. Sattaar
(Associate
PLanner)

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 OVERVIEW OF MATERIAL FLOW

Order Confirmation

Fabric & Trims Order

Sampling Placement

Fabric Received and CAD (MARKER GRADED AS REQUIRED

Inspected Sample Approval After Receiving From Sampling).

Spreading and Cutting

Cut Parts Sent For Stitching After Numbering And Bundling

In Line And End Line Quality Checking

Dump in Preparation Room

Sent for Washing (R-Tex Unit) Both Dry & Wet Process

Quality Checking

Finishing and Packaging of Garments

Temporary Storage In Warehouse

Shipment Audit

Shipped To The Buyer On The Shipment Date

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DEPARTMENT OVERVIEW
A Garment manufacturer factory consists of a combination of these 12 major departments,
though the number of departments might vary depending upon the requirement of product being
manufactured in the factory but if we neglect these lil bit of deviations major factory operations
remains the same irrespective of which apparel is being manufactured in the factory below is the
brief overview of the various departments which were part of the factory operation of Hi-Tech
Apparel L.L.C, Jordan.

MERCHANDISING
In Order to maintain a smooth and hassle free business continuity and customer services, The
Company itself allocated a team of highly qualified well experienced Merchandisers to serve their
respective Customer Division and connect with different buyer's time to time. The Merchandisers
do tracking and follow –up of orders in order to ensure that the work is completed in time and
meets all buyer requirements. They are responsible for each and every aspect of the product
being manufactured by factory and ensure everything gets done according to the buyer
requirement and within the tolerance levels acceptable. They are a required to get approval from
the buyer regarding and aspect of the order ranging from sampling, sewing to packaging.
Merchandiser plays a central role in coordinating, instructing departments and decision making
regarding any order related issue.

Merchandising Department at Hi-Tech Textile, Jordan is headed by Mr. Nasrullah Khan. Currently,
The Merchandising department is handling about 3 to 4 label per each of their 17+ =regular repeat
order buyers while also closing in the business with new clients from Turkey and European Union.
The Office deals with Poaching new buyer via trade marketing and landing the first buyer-vendor
meeting where the price negotiations are done either for the New Style or the Repeat order their
buyers are interested in placing with the company.

The Process flow that takes place here :-

 Buyer send a Tech Pack and Specification (Spec.) sheet for design.
 Internal work order number and Job number is assigned to the order for reference
purpose.
 The Tech pack is sent to CAD and IE department to analyse and come up with Machine,
Fabric and Thread consumption.
 Merchandisers handling the brand, does the Internal Costing including 2-3 % overhead.
 The Internal Costing can be discussed by the Top Management and Informed about the
profit prospects.
 Prototype sample is ordered from the sampling department in the mean time.
 Upon confirmation by the management, a request is for procurement is sent to purchase
department to issue the financials of the order.
 A request to Immediate air parcel the initial yardage of the fabric is placed to start with fit
sampling process and Bulk Fabric is ordered by sea shipment.
 During the 60 day shipment time of the fabric the trims are ordered from the suppliers to
be shipped via Air Cargo.

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 Their Lead time for order is generally varies from 90 to 120 days. So, As to maintain some
buffer stock in their hand. It takes 30-45 days for production per order on an average which
including Cutting, Stitching, Finishing and washing etc.
The effort of poaching new buyer and marketing the company capacity and capabilities lies
on the merchandiser along with the business development and strategy team and they
handles this task really well. Also, The task of delegating and dealing with the shipping
company and freight forwards also lies with the merchandiser and keep following up and
updated with the Shipping company in order to match with the ETD (Expected Time For
Delivery) agreed with the buyer successfully.

There are 14 people in this department in which -

 1 Merchandising Head
 5 Senior Merchandiser and
 8 Assistant Merchandisers.

Mr. Nasrullah Khan

(Merchandising Head)

Miss Jenny Mr. Qmar Mr. Richard

Mr. Amir Mr. Thamay
Tawang (Production Planning Bhasir
(Merchandiser) (Merchandiser) Merchandiser)
(Merchandiser) (Merchandiser)

Mr. Sehjaad & Miss. Tasneem Mr. Mustafa &

Mr. Aslam Mr. Satthar
Mr. Quershi & Mr. Asif Mr. Moin

 In which Mr. Amir is handling Nine West, Haggar, L.E.I. and Perry Ellis Brands.
 Mr. Thamay is handling with Jones Apparel Group, Khol’s, Anne Klein and Sears.
 Miss. Jenny is handling Walmart, Sam’s Club, Ralph Lauren and George Brands.
 Mr. Qmar is handling with GLO-jeans, Macy’s and planning all things straight from the
sampling to Shipment of the goods.
 Mr. Richard Bhasir is handling with Gloria Vinderbilt, Bandolino and Kenneth Cole.

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Departmental Linkages

Fabric
Embroi Store
CAD
dery

Merchandising
Finishin Washin
g g

Samplin Quality
g

 Quality – The merchandiser provides the comments received on the PP sample to the quality
department for keeping it in view while quality checks.
 Fabric Store – The merchandiser receives communication regarding the fabric received and their
inspection report for crosschecking of the actual fabric details to that of the booked fabric details.
 CAD – The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading details for
preparing the patterns and marker plan.
 Embroidery – The merchandiser provides the art work required in the garment to these
departments.
 Finishing & Packing – The merchandiser provides the details regarding folding and packaging.
 Sampling – The merchandiser follows up all the details of all stages of sampling and all the
communication between sampling and buyer goes through this department only. The
merchandiser is also responsible for receiving approval for various samples from buyer.
 Washing – The merchandiser provides the washing details to the washing department and keeps
an eye on the colour shade of the bottoms as required by the buyer.

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SAMPLING ROOM
The Hi-tech itself targeted a comfort and fit appearance of their garments in sampling as well
during production. The Sampling program is depends upon customers to customers and can be
vary on buyer's demands.
The Sampling Department is headed by Mr. Syed Imran and the total capacity to make Wash
Garments per Day is 45-50 Pcs and Capacity to make Non-Wash Garments per Day is 16-20 Pcs.
Normally, 7/ 8 styles are sampled in each day at during regular working hour.

Process Flow -

Tech pack received from the Merchandiser

Analysis of the tech pack

Costing is done after marker preparation and sent to buyer

Development of proto sample

Buyer comments and approval received

Fit sample development

Comments and approval received from buyer

Pre- production sample development and receiving of its comments and approval from buyer

Revised Tech pack

Pre- production sample

Order confirmation and planning of bulk production

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The Company usually follows 5 types of Samples :

• Prototype Sample -It is a First sample which send to the buyer from the Sampling dept. inorder
to show the look and finalizing the construction of the garment and to confirm the order. It can
be the Nearest substitute of the fabric, trims and accessories. 4pieces of proto sample are
made in which one can be kept for own counter and rest all sent to the buyer for
comments/approval.

• Fit Sample - After receiving positive comments from buyer, The FIT Sample is the next one
which send to the buyer. It should be the Actual fabric, trims and accessories but if in case the
fabric or trims is not available then it can be made from the substitute after taking approval
from the buyer. The Main purpose of this sample is to finalize proper fitting and also the
desired value added work (Printing, Embroidery,washing etc.) of the garment. This one is very
important without getting approval of this sample from the buyer they can not go for next
stage/production.

• Size-set Sample - The Size-set Sample is the next sample made to ensure that all the sizes and
ratios are in perfect dimensions as per the buyer requirement. It is made after getting approval
on Fit sample and in actual fabric,trims and accessories. Buyer's representative agent in Jordan
come and check everything related to the style (Proper dimensions, required feel and comfort,
All tags, washes etc. )

• Pre-Production Sample (PP Sample) - After getting approval of Size-set sample, The PP Sample
is the next sample which send to the Buyer. It is made from actual fabric, trims, Accessories and
also contain the desired value added work (Printing, Embroidery,washing, Tags etc.). It can be
made from the initial yardage of bulk fabric. 4 pieces of proto sample are made in which one
can be kept for own counter and rest all sent to the buyer for comments/approval. After the
approval of PP Sample only they can go for bulk production.

• Top of Production Sample - After PP Sample is approved from the buyer, They can start their
production. Top of production sample is send during the execution of production order. To see
whether the bulk pieces are coming out alright or not, whether the quality and construction is
matching to their style and with the PP Sample. It is made in production floor. This is the last
sample which send to the buyer from the Sampling dept. after this, The Shipment will take
place.

The Sampling dept. also make some other types of Samples only on Buyer's demand like -Walmart
demands Advertisement Sample (Ad Sample) etc.

*4 pieces per stage i.e. Proto, Fit and PP sample is made and the cost for which is bear by the
company, however for Advertisement sample the costs are to be bear by the buyer itself.

• Advertisement Sample - Advertisement (Ad) Sample can be made only on Buyer's demand and
the expenses regarding this sample can be bear by buyer's only. Ad Sample is made from actual

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 fabric, trims, Accessories and also contain the desired value added work (Printing, Embroidery,
washing, Tags etc.). It can be used for advertisement, making catalogue, photoshoot and for
buyer's reference.

 The Sampling Dept. comprise of 70 machines in total which are -

Serial No. Type Brand Quantity

Single Needle
1. Lockstitch Machine JUKI 25
(SNLS)
Computerised Single
2. Needle Lockstitch SUNSTAR 15
Machines
Computerised Single
3. Needle Lockstitch BROTHER 20
Machines
4. Flat Seamer BEISLER 1
Automatic Welt
5. BEISLER 1
Pocket Machine
6. Jocker Tag Machine CADY 1
7. Blend loop Machine ZUSUN 1
8. Waistband blend TREASURE 1
Stitch Machine
9. Waistband Closing DURKOPP ADLER 1
Machine
10. Pick Stitch Machine JUKI 1
11. Normal Key-hole JUKI 1
Machine
12. Jig-jag Stitch Machine SINGER 1
13. Round Key-hole DURKOPP ADLER 1
Machine

The Sampling Dept. have -

• Iron Table - 4
• Inspection Table - 4
• Heat-setting Machine - 2
• Pattern-making table - 2
• Thread stand - 1
• Exits - 2
• Fans - 12
• Straight knife - 1
• 4 Rows each with 40 white-tube light.

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Workforce of Sampling Dept. -
 45 Tailor Masters at work Stations. ( 10 M/C are for Specialised Operation)
 2 Handler at Iron Table ( 2 Iron Tables are vacant to be used by tailor master)
 2 People handling pattern tracing and laying for sampling
 1 Manual Pattern Maker
 4 Quality Inspector
 1 Sampling room head
 1 M/C repair and maintenance technician
 2 Handlers at Finishing and Final Packaging
 5 People In CAD Department.

Details Attached To The Garment Sample

After confirmation of the order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has
demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used (if applicable).
- Ref. No. - Description
- Colour - Quantity
- Fabric - Style No./ Size
- Composition - Supplier Name

Departmental Linkages

Fabric
Embroidery Store Washin
g

Sampling

Merchandisin Quality
g

 Merchandising- The department co-ordinates with the sampling department
during sample development for buyer requirements and approvals and another follow ups.

• Quality- Quality department receives all critical buyer comments regarding quality on PP
samples for the purpose of quality control.
• Embroidery -The department provides sampling with requisite embroideries as per buyer
need.

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 • Fabric Store- The required fabric trims and accessories are issued to sampling department
from these stores.
• Washing- The Department co-ordinates with the sampling department for proper colour
shade.

CAD Dept.

No. of marker makers 3

Machinery 1 Gerber Digitizer

1 Gerber Plotter (Infinity series)
2 Desktops
Software Accumark Explorer - 8.1 (Gerber)

Storage 2 racks
Tables 1

The Hi-tech itself targeted a comfort and fit appearance of their garments in sampling as well during
production. They use Digital GERBER system for pattern making and currently they are working with
the Version- 8.1. For Pattern Making, They are using a Gerber Software called Accumark Explorer.

In which, The Software itself gives 3 Functions -

 Pattern Design - To design a new pattern of any size of any style.

 Marker Making - In this, The Software itself gives you many pre-loaded different kinds of
patterns and also, it gives you a copy of your used pattern. So that, It can just save your time in
creating/making patterns again and again. You just need to click a pre-loaded pattern, drag it
and drop it in lay area.

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  System Management - The System Management automatically saves all your working data,
styles, patterns etc. You can Retrieve/Delete the data whenever you want.

For a New style/design, Either they are using this Pattern design feature in Gerber Accumark Explorer
Software or either they have to make a pattern manually in any size and then, trace it in a Gerber Plotter
and then they can grade it in any size which required.

There is also an Additional feature in this software, where you just need to feed all the information related
to the fabric, pattern and Marker like - Fabric Length, Marker Type etc. and it lay automatically and gives
the Best Marker efficiency. There Marker Efficiency is on an average 80-90 % and For a Group or Family
Marker used for Shade Variation there are 7 to 8% wastage in their Marker efficiency.

For Denim Jeans and Pants, There is NO Nap. So, They are using Nap Either Way But for Coudry Pants, The
Buyer generally demands Nap Up or it depends Buyer to Buyer.

PROCESS FLOW

Production file received

Pattern of base size is received

from sampling

Grading of patters are done based on the spec sheet.

Shrinkage report received from central

store

Shrinkage allowance is added to the patterns based on the shrinkage

report

Nominated QA checks for the accurate measurement and shrinkage

amount after washing

Comments received by QA if any and based on the comment patters are modified

Cut order plan prepared for that particular style

Final marker making for the bulk

cutting

Sent to cutting department for the bulk

cutting of fabric

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ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF CAD DEPARTMENT

 Cad department receives patterns for a particular style of base size in a soft copy format
which is developed in gerber software from sampling department for grading and marker
making.
 The patterns are graded as per the spec. sheet with style details once patterns for base size
are received. Shrinkage report is received from the central store and based on the
shrinkage report; shrinkage allowance is added in the patterns for the accurate
measurement in the final stitched garment.
 The patterns are developed using Gerber Package. The patterns prepared on the CAD are
plotted on a plotting paper by a Gerber Plotter. Size set patterns are developed and sent to
sampling department for preparation of size set samples.
 Nominated QA checks for the accurate measurement and shrinkage amount after washing.
If any deviation is found from the standard, QA writes the comment in the spec sheet.
Based on the comments received patterns are modified as per required.

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 Accessory and Trim Store :
Here, At Hi-Tech Textile the Accessories store a strict guide to material tracking and inventory
management is followed in order to facilitate swift procurement and fast issuing of goods to
different departments. Accessory Store is headed by Mr. Sohail with a workforce of 7 people. The
Software used for keeping records is M.S. Excel, Oracle and for communication M.S. Outlook.

Process Flow

Internal Order Requirement is

Merchandising number is generated Generated and Shipment
send garment for inventory forwarded to purchase arrive
accessory sheet management dept. for procurement

Segregatingon bases of
types eg. zippers,
Checking the Quantity Inspectionof 10% of Take possesion
of goods recieved shipment for quality of shipment
threads, buttons etc.

Deparment(s) Evalute the request

Stacking them on the Keep Record of the
issue trim for the work
bases of brand/ lable For. eg. production optimum level of
shift capacity and
which they belong floor send requirement inventory
requirement

Workforce :
 2 People handling the Issuing and keeping records.
 2 people checking the Incoming Stock.
 1 Person keeping record of the Trims Issue request for sampling and managing the dead
stock and surplus for the purpose.
 2 Laborers for moving the packages..
 1 Accessory Store Head.

Capacity of the accessory store varies depending upon the volume of the goods their packaging
and carton size but typically within the main building the area of the store size is 400sq. Meter.
However, there is additional 400sp Meter of space outside main building to store hanger packs
and embroidery threads.

Once order is confirmed, and then based on the details given in tech-pack BOM is received for
each style. When BOM is made, cost sheet is sent to buyer through merchandiser. Once amount

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of trim required is confirmed then data amount is communicated to central warehouse for stock
update, according to stock, order is placed for trims.

Supplier by whom trims to be procured are selected on the basis of material or export house or if
buyer has nominated any specific supplier. Then negotiation is done with the supplier and later PO
is generated. Sometimes, trims for a brand repeats but sometimes it differs based on style, season
and buyer. Trims are ordered generally 5% extra if buyers ask few amount of extra trims and 2-3%
in case if buyer asks the same amount for which order has been placed. Random checking of trims
are done by MQA( material quality assurance), in case of tape- shrinkage measurement is also
done.(3-5)% of the total ordered trim is checked if not accepted then checking is done for (8-10) %
of complete order, if not accepted then complete lot is rejected and is sent back to supplier and is
asked for replacement. Once trims are received, trim card is made. Payment to supplier for trims
is usually done on credit basis and time duration may be from 30 to 90 days but the payment
mode usually depends on supplier. Cost of transportation varies with amount procured, space
taken and the distance.

The Main Suppliers For Trims Are -

1. Embroidery threads
 Coats (Egypt)
 MTM (Oman)

2. Buttons
• Reliable (Hong Kong)
• Lamcom (Hong Kong)
• Lion (Hong Kong)

3. Threads
• Coats
(Egypt)
• MTM (Oman) Labels
• Joint tech (Hong Kong)
• Averidenison (Dubai)
4. Cartons (Delhi)
• Q pack (Jordan)
5. Polybags
• Q plastic (Jordan)
• Poly pack (Hong Kong)

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 FABRIC STORE

At Hi-Tech Textile, Their fabric suppliers are mainly situated in South Asia, with a significant number
of suppliers coming from Buyer Nominated textile mills located in China (92%) and Hong Kong and
Pakistan. Some Buyers choose to give away the nominated list of option
to the Apparel Factory to negotiated further and expect the entire costing of sourcing to
manufacturing to be received from the garment factory itself covering all the costs. However, some
buyer chose to order Fabric themselves and use the garment manufacturer for Cut-Make Purpose
only.
After receiving the tech pack and specification (Spec.) sheet from the buyer merchandising
department creates an internal work order reference number and forwards the garment details to
the Industrial engineering and CAD department, following which the CAD department generates
pattern for the same garment and a proto sample is crafted based on the CAD designed pattern and
further upon approval of sample a cutting plan is proposed based over the required ratio order
sizes Fabric Consumption is Calculated by CAD department.
Industrial Engineering Department calculates the thread Consumption.

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An order for the fabric is placed following the approval, consumption calculation and price
negotiation. Once the bulk gets In-house the Store manager alerts the store Inspection department
to start the inspection process.
In Hi-Tech, Jordan initially 10% of the fabric quantity is inspected following the FOUR POINT
SYSTEM. If however the inspected system fails furthermore 60% fabric is inspected and even after
that the results are unsatisfactory 100% fabric is inspected.
After fabric passes inspection it is tested for Fabric Shrinkage, skewing are tested in house and a
sample is sent to buyer nominated labs SGS or ITS for Tearing strength, Fabric composition, GSM
and further technical and performance testing.
The Store is headed by Mr. Mohd. Ziyaul with workforce of 7 people in which 2 of them are Quality
Inspectors.
Process Flow -
Fabric Store

Quality Inspection &

Testing

Block Cutting in Fabric Store

(For Shrinkage)

Stitching (Legtube)

Washing

Finishing

Final Inspection

Mainly fabric is sourced from nominated vendors like :

 Nissan mills
 Kohinoor mills
 Safire mills (Pakistan)
 Reality
 Han sing (China) .

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SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Spreading And Cutting Department
at Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C. is in the
same league with market leaders
equipped with advanced GGT
Accumark system, to facilitate
better efficiency and quality
production. Highly reliable
Automated Spreading Machines and
Automated Cutting ensures
minimum turnaround time spent by
the fabric in cutting store and
optimized cutting plans.

The Department is headed by Mr.

Mubin Ahmed and their daily
capacity is reaches upto 16000 Pcs. In which upto 8000 Pcs. can be Cut by the Automated Cutter
and Rest will be cut by Manual Cutting.

Process Flow -

Fabric Issue Requisition

Issue Of Fabric

Spreading Of Lay

Cutting

Numbering

Bundling

Final Checking of all Cut Panels

Cut Parts Bank

Issue To Batch For Sewing

26 | P a g e
Functioning Of the Department -

 The cutting department receives the work sheet from the merchandiser which contains all
the details of the order. The lay order plan is prepared as per the ratio to be cut and the
quantity to be cut.
 The spreader refers to the lay order plan for the length, the number of plies for spreading.
Spreading is done manually and even with spreader machine for all type of fabrics.
Spreading is done shade wise so as to avoid any shade variation. Shade changes during
spreading are differentiated using fabric strips running across the length of the lay.
 The cutting is done Manually with Straight Knife as well as Automated through Gerber
Automatic Cutter between 4 spreading tables from where the fabric lays are fed by the
spreader.
 The cut pieces are then sent for ticketing. Ticketing is done to identify the lay number,
batch and size. These tickets are necessary to avoid shade variation and piece mix-match.
Ticketing is done using ticketing machines on each part and piece.
 After ticketing all the parts of the garment are bought together and bundled as per their
sizes and batch. A Bundle ticket is attached to the bundle which contains details like,
number of pieces in bundle lot details, batch and other order details. Parts that require
fusing, embroidery or printing are separately bundled and sent to respective departments.
 After the auxiliary processes are complete these pieces are returned to cutting and
bundled along with other garment pieces and sent to cut parts bank. The cutting
department is also having reworking section that replaces the cutting rejects from the
sewing line with fresh pieces of same batch. In case of rejections of garments from
finishing the cutting provides extra cut pieces with the fabric available to fulfil the order
quantity.

Observations -

 The Lay Length are restricted to 22 yards due to table length restriction.
 Marker efficiency of around 80 to 90% is expected in washing pocket bottoms garments.
 Fabric is Lay using the Semi Auto Laying machines upon receiving the cut order plan from the CAD
department.
 The Semi Auto lay is handled by two operators working with the machines ensuring that each lay is
smooth and defect free, in case a defect is identified by the operator the defect is cut and removed
and the ply of fabric is sent to be lay along with the cut piece or remain roles of fabric.
 Fabric having special requirement for relaxing are sent to fabric relaxation machine where
the regular procedures are followed to cover up the basic.

27 | P a g e
Spreading Capacity:
Semi Auto Capacity : 7000 X 2 = 14000 pcs per day
Shell fabric styles usually denim is lay using Semi Auto Machines.
Two tables each are reserved for the automated cutters.

Manual Spreading Capacity: 2000 to 2500 pcs. Per day

Pocketing fabric and Some Dress pant fabrics are lay using Manual spreading.
One Table is dedicated for pocket fabric laying and cutting.
One table for semi auto lay fabric is shared by the manual lay team to lay the remaining
bundles and cut pieces.

Work Force Of The Department :

Auto Cutter : 2 Operator
Semi Auto Spreading : 2 X 2 = 4 Operator
Manual Spreading : 3 X 3 = 9 Operators
Manual Straight Knife Cutting : 10 Operators
Helper : 10
Ticketing Bundling : 17
Supervisors : 03
Manager : 01

Machine Details :

1. Auto Cutter ( Gerber Xlc7000 )

Quantity : 1
knife length: 25-26cm,
knife speed : 1200-1400 RPM
Cut speed: 30
Vacuum Pressure : Running- 5.8 to 6.2 of Hg.
Stop - 4.8 to 7.0 of Hg.
Table Surface : Bristles to allow effective vacuum generation and cutting.
Blade Life: 6-7 lay.
Capacity per day: 12 to 14 lay ( 8 hour shift).
Table height : 36”
Width : 85”
Length : 220”
**Periodic preventive maintenance at every two months.**

2. Straight Knife Cutting machine

Straight Knife: 10
Brands : EASTMAN; Hashima (KM-AUV)

28 | P a g e
 MODEL: 862X; 629X
blade length : 10 inch.
Average blade life 3 days.
Frequency of blade sharpening: Per part

3. Spreading Machine
Brand: Gerber
Model: SY251; XLS
Table Height: 36”
Table Width: 65”
Table Length: 22 yard.
Table Top: Ply Wood / Air Floatation.

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PRODUCTION (SEWING) FLOOR

Process Flow

Issue Of Cut Parts In Batch From Cut Parts Bank

Line Feeding By Input Boy

Sewing Of Individual Cut Parts

Inline Checking

Assembly Of Cut Parts

Loop Attachment

Endline Checking

Functioning Of The Department -

The sewing floor consists of production related activities such as preparation of individual parts of
a garment and its assembly. Cut pieces for sewing are issued from the cutting department to the
sewing floor. Reports are maintained regarding issues to sewing. Accordingly the pieces are issued
to lines for sewing operation. There are storage racks to keep cut pieces at the start of every line.
Feeding is done into the line bundle wise. All parts of garment are bundled separately in roll form
having 25 pieces in each bundle. Before assembly of pieces they are checked for any quality
related issues and accordingly rejected and recorded.

An input statement of the bundles is also maintained along with the details of the rejected pieces.
The rejected pieces are sent for re-cutting for replacement to the line. Sewing lines follow PART
AND ASSEMBLY production system, where the part system follows progressive bundle system and
the assembly section follows up paced manual Unit Production System. The machines in the
sewing line are laid out as per sequence and bundle system is followed for all parts and UPS for
assembly. Each line has supervisor responsible for managing daily production activities. Line
helpers are kept to track production, arrange accessories, get replacement pieces from cutting,
get thread and maintain record. Every line has a Quality checker and every four lines have a
Quality in-charge appointed by QC department.

30 | P a g e
Operators at each workstation pickup the garment pieces from fixed table in between and
perform the operation required. After the operation the garment pieces are again rolled and
pushed ahead through aisle space for next operation. Check points are provided at various points
in the line and end line usually after critical operations. Garments from the production line are
dispatched to the finishing on hourly basis. Before finishing the line helper count the pieces
produced size wise after every hour.

Every workstation in the sewing line is provided with necessary work aids to make the job easier
and the in-line inspection is done after every section such as ”Front Section” “Back Section” and
“final”. The checker at these points records the account for the number of pieces produced per
hour. This is used to calculate operator efficiency and to find bottlenecks. Each line is provided
with a production board on which hourly and cumulative production is displayed.

Sample is provided by the sampling which is hung at the end of the line. Every workstation has a
miniature sample of operation to be performed. Details of the machine and maintenance records
are also hung at every workstation. Storage boxes at check points are provided for collection of
rejected and alter pieces. The alter pieces are worked upon timely by the concerned operators to
avoid production loss. Each line is provided with its own lighting facilities. Operators for
operations are allocated based on their training and experience. If daily target is not met,
overtime system is followed.

31 | P a g e
WASHING UNIT ( R- TEX )
Garment washing is normally done after stitching. According to fashion trend and customer
demand buyers ask for garment washing. For the washing apparel buyers mention exactly what
types of washing they need for the order. For example washes like – Vintage wash, Cloud wash,
softener wash or Acid wash. Each wash has different types of appearance on the fabric surfaces.
Wash types mainly depends on the product types. For denim product heavy enzyme is required
where for knitted Tee light softener wash is done.

The primary objects of garment washing is -

 To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing.

 To soften the garment hand feel and improve bulkiness.
 To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment
manufacturing processes.
 To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process
 To fulfill customer demand.

 Washed clothes can be worn directly after purchasing.

 To give faded look or any other color tinted look to the garment.
 To stabilize garment shrinkage and dimensional instability.

Serial No. Type Brand Quantity

Automatic Washing
1. SMARTEX 2
Machine
Semi- Auto Washing
2. TOLKER 6
Machine
Manual Washing
3. BELLY 8
Machine
NGAI SHING
4. Dryer 21
DEVELOPMENT LTD.
GOLDEN RESOURCES
5. Hydro Extractor MACHINERY WORK 4
LTD.

 An industrial clothes washer can be used to batch process up to 300 pounds (140 kg) of
textiles at once.
 It Can be used for extremely machine-abusive washing tasks such as stone washing or
fabric bleaching and dyeing.
 It Can be mounted on heavy shock absorbers and attached to a concrete floor so that it
can extract water from even the most severely out-of-balance and heavy wash loads.

32 | P a g e
  It may be mounted on hydraulic cylinders, permitting the entire washer to be lifted and
tilted so that fabrics can be automatically dumped from the wash drum onto a conveyor
belt, once the cycle is complete.
 Hydro-Extractors are also called Centrifuges. Centrifuges are used for water extraction
(dewatering, pre-drying) of textile materials. Centrifuges with perforated drums which
oscillate vertically in ball-and-socket joints suspended on three points are produced in
various designs as pendulating, suspension, cage and vertical centrifuges, also with so
called gliding support bearings as gliding support centrifuges or in horizontal resp. vertical
arrangements as open-width, horizontal and warp-beam centrifuges.
 Most centrifuges have electric drives for speeds of approx. 750–1200 rpm.

33 | P a g e
QUALITY CONTROL
Process Flow

34 | P a g e
The various steps of in-process inspection and quality control which are done are mentioned
below :

 Quality control in sample making section

 Maintain buyer specification standard.
 Checking the sample & it‟s different issues
 Measurements checking.
 Fabric colour , GSM , fastness ,etc. properties required checking
 SPI and other parameter checking.

 Quality control in marker making

 To check notch/drill mark.
 Fabric width must be more than marker width
 Lay length must be more than marker length
 Check pattern size & dimension.
 Matching of check & stripe taking into consideration
 Considering cut order plan
 Cutting table length consideration
 Pattern direction consideration

 Quality control in fabric spreading

 Fabric spreading according to correct alignment with marker length & width
 Maintain requirements of spreading
 Lay contains correct no. of fabric ply
 Correct ply direction
 Tension control

 Quality control in fabric cutting

 Dimension of pattern and cut piece should be same & accurate
 Cut edge should be smooth & clean
 Notch should be cut accurately
 Drill hole should be made at proper marked position
 No yarn fraying should occur at cut edge
 Avoid blade deflection

 Quality control in sewing section

 Input material checking
 Cut panel & accessories checking
 Condition of machine checking
 Thread count check
 Special work like embroidery , printing panel check

35 | P a g e
  Needle size checking
 Stitching fault should be checked
 Garments measurement should be checked
 Seam faults to be checked
 Size mistake check
 Shade variation within the cloth
 Creased/wrinkle appearance control

 Quality control in finishing section

 Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt, impurities
 Shading variation check
 In secured or broken chain or button
 Wrong fold
 Proper shape of folding of garments
 Properly dried in after pressing
 Presentation checking

Key Result Area -

Pre- Production

• Discuss regarding forth coming styles.

• Ensure that all the documents related to cutting are available before start of cutting
• (Fabric In house report, Shade cards, Colour continuity cards, test reports etc)
• Discuss with CAD/ sampling regarding the markers/ consumption
• Confirm bulk consumption & take approval from all concerned
• Alert critical issues like CSV, bowing, skewing, high fabric defects to seniors & take
necessary closure.

Upon order Completion

• Ensure that OCR is completed within the planned time.
• Ensure that all left over fabric & material is returned to the warehouse with due
diligence.

Safety & Cleanliness

• Ensure that departments are neat & clean all the time.
• Ensure that straight knife & band knife operators use safety equipments all the time.
• Ensure that critical cutters/spreaders are cleaned & cut regularly.
• Ensuring fusing machine belts are cleaned regularly in the day & operators are educated
regarding proper usage of machine.
• Ensure that all sharp objects are secured & the feeding helper is maintaining the correct
records.

36 | P a g e
 • Ensure that all fabrics & trims are properly identified & stored.

Departmental Linkage

Fabric
Finishing Store Washin
g

Quality

Merchandisin Sewing
g

• Sampling - Sampling department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The quality
department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical operations based
upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and the complex operations.

• Sewing- Quality department assures quality production by appointing checkers, Quality control
and Assurance personnel within sewing lines to monitor the production. The quality control
personnel are required to randomly check pieces for during the shift.

The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the details of the End Line
checking. The QC is also responsible for developing AQL reports at the end of the shift based
upon buyer AQL levels at end-line checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production
of the day, selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size for the
AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required sample size and compiles
the AQL report. The AQL report is generated similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The
AQL reports helps in classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality
also approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase.

• Finishing- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer requirements are
met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing, folding, and packaging. After
pressing the garments are sent to the final checking tables where teams of checkers check the
garments for various defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting,
Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking table using petrol
guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines based on the line number sticker
attached under the label by the end-line checker. Mending is done on a separate table after
which checking is done again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded.
Each Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the checker

37 | P a g e
 himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After folding it is checked
whether it has been done as per buyer requirements. Similarly various stages of packaging also
checking are carried out to ensure adherence to buyer compliance.

• Cutting- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the patterns provided by
the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre-production phase where before bulk cutting.
The quality checks the markers before cutting to ensure all requisite parts of the particular
style are present.

• Fabric Store- Quality department conducts inspection of received fabrics using four point
system and gives the reports on the feasibility on usage of the fabrics. It prepares colour
continuity card for shade variation in the received lot and divide them in respective batches.
They also check the GSM(knits), width/diameter and length (woven). They look for knitting,
dyeing and finishing defects in the fabric. A lot of fabric after arrival goes through 10% of lot
inspection. If positive, fabric is approved for production else it is subjected to 25% inspection
excluding the previous 10%. If fabric fails then it is subjected to 50% checking excluding
previous checked lot failing which the fabric is sent back to mill. On roll diameter variation
is also recorded and minimum diameter is recorded as cuttable diameter. Usually 1- 1 ½ “of
fabric end is left while measuring cuttable diameter due to end gumming and end pinning.
These reports are sent to CAD and Merchandising department for revised consumption
calculation.

• Merchandising- Production merchandiser sends the buyer comments received on PP sample

to the Quality department to ensure that these are looked after during production and also
to determine in-line check points. And all major quality related issues during production are
highlighted and sent to merchandiser by the Quality department regularly.

• CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker plan for quality
control purposes.

38 | P a g e
 FINISHING AND PACKAGING

Process Flow

Button - Hole Making

Rivets & Button Attachment

Trimming

In-Line Inspection

Ironing

Final Checking

Measurement Checking

Wash Care Label Checking

Size Sticker

Price Tag

Polybag Packing

Final Label Checking And Folding

Final Packaging Checking

Warehouse

39 | P a g e
The garments from the end-line after counting are bought for sticker removal process in which all
the tickets on all the garment parts are removed. Steam presses are used for pressing. During
pressing the pressers ensure that the size of each garment parts are within tolerance for this
purpose they are provided with hard paper scales having size markings for different parts of
different sizes by quality department. The pressed garments are counted and stored. Then these
garments are sent for100% final checking where all possible defects are checked. The faulty
garments are divided into SPOTTING, ALTERATION, MENDING and REJECTION. Rejected garments
are sent to the rejection room and recorded.

Alters are sent back to the lines from where they have been produced for alterations required.
Mending of defects such as small holes, torn yarns and contamination removal are done. Minor
spotting is done by the final checking itself by using petrol guns. In case of major spots it is sent to
the spotting. Then these garments are sent back for pressing.

After final checking Tagging is done where in different tags such as barcode tags, buyer tags and
price tags are attached. Folding is done as per buyer approval. An approved folded sample is hung
in the folding section. After folding garments, they are packed using primary packing materials
such as poly-bags, hanger and packing box

As per buyer requirements after100% packaging final inspection is performed on the packed lot.
The final inspection is performed by a third party approved by the buyer. The inspection is
performed on the AQL level decided by the buyer. Based on this inspection the shipment is
approved. The inspected garments are repacked and sent to dispatch. Reports such as daily
rejection, finishing and packaging reports are maintained.

Departmental Linkages

Maintenance Quality

Finishing

Merchandisin Sewing
g

• Quality - Quality is involved in ensuring that proper finishing and packaging is done.
• Maintenance - Maintenance looks after the press machines and steam generators regularly to
ensure smooth functioning.
• Sewing - Finishing receives garment from end-line.
• Dispatch - Dispatch receives packed cartons for shipment.

40 | P a g e
 • Merchandising- It provides the details of buyer approval regarding folding, packaging and
carton packaging ratios

• Total Workforce of this Department with Machines and Capacity -

Operation No. of Worker Pcs/Hour Pcs produced/ worker

In Put 1 1600 1600
Loop Cut 10 1600 160
Button Hole Helper 4 1600 400
Button Hole Operator 6 1600 267
Button Attach
Rivet 15 1600 107
Back Patch
Trimming/Checking 44 1600 36
Counting 3 1600 533
Dusting 5 1600 320
Iron Table 18 1600 89
Counting 4 1600 400
Heat Seal Helper 4 1600 400
Heat Seal Operator 4 1600 400
Final Checking 18 1600 89
Counting 3 1600 533
Card Insert
Tag Machine
48 1600 33.3
Packing Table
Size Separate
Ratio 4 1600 400
Poly Bag 4 1600 400
CTTN Close 2 1600 800
CTTN Separate 2 1600 800
Spot clean 4 1600 400
Darner 1 1600 1600
Damage Repair 4 1600 400
Supervisor 6 1600 267
Finishing Manager 1 1600 1600
Total 215 16000 7.44

So, The Department itself have a workforce of 215 People and have a capacity of 16000 Pcs/Day in
which the department is working on 2 hours overtime daily.

41 | P a g e
 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The maintenance department in a garment manufacturing industry looks after all the machines so
that they deliver the expected output when in use, so that standard products can be manufactured.
The department is mainly responsible for keeping the machine in specified working conditions and
minimal breakdown of machines during operation. Maintenance activities are carried out daily like
basic cleaning and dusting, but it sometimes varies with change in style and the maintenance
activities to be carried out for a particular style is discussed in PP meeting. Maintenance policies
which are followed in the company are:
 Preventive maintenance, and
 Break down maintenance.

The maintenance department follows various procedures to ensure that the machines are in
working condition and do not breakdown regularly. The department is divided into two parts:

 Needle and spare parts department and

 Maintenance and repairs department

The needle and spare parts department is responsible for storage and issue of needles and
machine spare parts. Department follows a ZERO NEEDLE POLICY. In this policy it is required to
find all the parts of a broken needle before replacing it. The policy has been implemented as per

42 | P a g e
buyer requirements. In case a needle breaks, the operator reports to line supervisor who in turn
reports to the maintenance.

Preventive and breakdown maintenance

 Preventive maintenance procedures are followed to ensure that the machines are in
proper working condition and do not breakdown. To meet this purpose a preventive
maintenance checklist is maintained at every workstation. Weekly checks are performed
for various machine parameters to check the condition of the machine.

 Breakdown maintenance is done in cases where machine malfunctions. In this case the
maintenance personnel attend the machine and correct the malfunction as soon as
possible to avoid production loss. A record of the maintenance done is maintained on a
breakdown maintenance sheet kept at the workstation for reference purposes. The
machines having frequent breakdowns are taken out and replaced. There are three teams
of mechanics, engineer and fitters in the maintenance department for repair works. All
major repair jobs are done in the maintenance department. The department is equipped
with all the required machines, equipment and spare parts to cope with all kind of
breakdowns.

Department Coordination with maintenance Department:

Cutting
Department

Finishing Washing
Department Deparment
Maintenance
Department

Quality
Sewing
Control
Department
Department

43 | P a g e
  Quality- During line setup the quality department works in co-ordination with maintenance
for ensuring proper stitch settings. During Zero Needle Compliance the quality department
assists the maintenance for checking the garments for contamination.
 Washing- maintenance department is responsible for the maintenance of the washing
machine and dryers and their proper functioning.
 Sewing- Maintenance department constantly looks after the machines in the sewing line
and does preventive and breakdown maintenance.
 Finishing & Packing- The department looks after the maintenance of needle detector
machine, pressing, steam generator etc.
 Cutting- The department looks after the maintenance of cutter, spreader, straight knives,
band knives etc. It also maintains a record of all the replacement of blades of cutter.

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Embroidery Department at Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C. caters the production requirement of the factory
with their 11, 12/15/20 head machines. The sampling requirement for embellishment and
embroider are also handled by the department. They also help the merchandising office in
providing the thread consumption requirement for the Embroidery work per order and the other
price of all the other goods used in achieving the production target.

Embroidery Department at Hi-Tech Textile is dealing with manufacturer of Bottoms, Specially 5

pocket jeans or shorts orders which generates a continuous requirement for the several back path
pocket styles.

When the order gets confirmed the merchandising department sent a copy of tech pack
containing the sketch design or the Photograph of the requested embroidery which is Analyzed by
the Designer at the Embroidery room who scans the sketch of Photo from the tech pack put it on
computer and generates a digital copy of design in Wilcom embroidery digitizersoftware a sample
is created in 15 to 30 minute and sent for approval to buyer via merchandiser thread consumption
is calculated and other added overheads are also added as a representative cost to assist
merchandiser in pricing the order quote price appropriately and negotiate better.
upon approval from the merchandiser side a pocket size design stencil is generated or selected
from the previously used similar designs and sent out to be arranged under machine heads and
threading is done as per the design colour guidelines and further tearable fusing is laid upon the
stencil prior to starting the bulk embroidery.

44 | P a g e
Process Layout :

Tech pack is recieved Sketch analysed and

Thread Consumption
from the digitel copy created
calculated
merchandiser at wilson

Planning order M/C time calculated

Sent to the Buyer
cutting upon order for planning
Via Merchandiser
approval Merchdiser

Panel set for

Cut Pannel pocket / Threads recieved
Embroidery are sent
front pannel are from the Acessesory
to Embroidery
bundled in cutting Store
Deparment

Machine Needles
a Brief Pilot run on Threading & Stencil changed according
one head Placement done to the Fabric
Standards

Actual Pannels feed Embroidered Stocked/ Sent to

into machine Pannels BUndled Sewing Department

45 | P a g e
FUNCTION OF THE DEPARTMENT
 The embroidery design from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The design is
developed on fabric and samples are made and sent for approval to buyer. During the
garment sampling phase the embroidery on the samples is done as per buyer approved
design.

 During production the pieces requiring embroidery are received in bundle form.
Embroidery is done on the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved
sample. After QC checking embroidery process is done sequentially and sent for thread
trimming.

 These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting
department. During embroidery the centre point of the design is marked on a table using
pins. A frame is placed around the pins and another frame on which the fabric piece is
fastened and pressed over it. Frames can be changed as according to design requirement.

 The design developed in the CAD is fed in the machine and embroidery is done as required.
There are three embroidery machines (Barudan-18 heads), (SWF- 12 heads) which has
capacity of 9-threads per head in other words at a time threads of nine colors can be used
for embroidery.

 Sequins and bead attachments can also be done if required. Tear able nonwoven linings
are used as backing during embroidery.

 The consumptions for thread used here are provided by this department itself. Threads
generally used are of MTM (Omen), Coats (Egypt) brand.

46 | P a g e
DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGE

Cutting
department

Embroidery
Department

Merchandising
department Quality

 Production Merchandising– Prod merchandising provides the art work and follows up it
with buyer for approvals.
 Quality– Quality is involved in checking proper embroidery as per buyer needs.
 Cutting– The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which embroidery is
required and receives the output.

47 | P a g e
COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT
PROCESS FLOW

PO released

LC received

initial packaging list

initial booking with the forwarder

receipt of approval

preparation of final document

movement of goods to port

custom clearance

hand over of goods to forwarder

completion of forwarder work and loading of container

release of the documents

( bill of lading, forwarder's

cargo receipt (FCR),

custom's exchange

control copy

present documents in bank as per LC and Indian bank

policy

follow the payment with the buyer

48 | P a g e
Once the goods are ready, the exporter has to prepare & execute various documents at different
stages of sending the shipment of goods to the importer. These documents are important for
below reasons:
 As an evidence of shipment & title of goods
 For obtaining payments
 Transportation of the goods
 Custom clearance of the goods
 Other purposes

The various documents are therefore, of vital interest to the exporter & the bank which is the
usual media of payment. The documentary requirements are both regulatory & operational in
nature & have to comply with the rules & regulations of the Indian Government as well as the
importing countries. If the documents are not the correct ones or if they not filled in correctly to
the last, the importer may not be able to get the goods when the ship carrying them arrives.
Before 20 days of shipment dates, booking of forwarder is done (forwarder is nominated by
buyers). Up till the handover of goods on port, charges are carried by exporter ( FOB) . Rest is
carried by buyer. Payment is done mostly through Letter of credit, telegraphic transfer, direct
payment, DAC (document against clearance payment). Letter of credit is the safest option.
Irrevocable L/C credit mode is followed.
Certifications is done through
 Textile Commercials
 Code of Conduct
 Foreign consulates
 Country of origin
 GSP-Generalize system of preference (green countries & supporting countries of Europe)
 Export inspection agency

COO & GSP are the main important certificates Arvind has to provide. For US buyer, COO & For
Europe buyer, both COO & GSP are compulsory certificates.
Shipment ports
Aqaba (Jordan) - 300 kms Hafia (Israel) – 200 kms
Costs incurred in different payment mode of shipments:
FOB: Factory to port cost paid by exporter

COO port to port of destination cost paid by buyer

EX- WORK: All costs are incurred by buyer.
Required documents Invoice: One invoice must be issued per shipment. The invoice must contain
the following information.
 Consignee Address

 Ship to Address

 Country of buyer destination

 SKU reference and board number

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  Detailed description of the merchandise and the fabric composition

 Quantity

 Shipment mode (FOB etc.)

 Price per unit and total price

 Country of origin

 Total number of cartons

 Export license number

 Shipping details if available

Packing List:
 The packing list must contain the following information:
 Invoice number
 Carton number
 SKU references and board number per carton
 Quantity per carton
 Total weight and volume (or dimensions)

Export License (when required according to the textile category and COO)

LOGISTICS
EXPORT
 In case of export buyers shipment is generally done through a freight forwarder.
 Forwarder follows up with their office settled over at the buyer’s port of destination.
 Packaging is done as per buyer specification.
 Cut off time is generally of one week (i.e. when goods are handed over after all the custom
activities has been cleared)
 ICD- inland container depo (loading and custom clearance is done in the factory region and
then just container is loaded in the factory region).

MAIN RESPONCIBILITIES OF THE DEPARTMENT

1. Movement- This includes the movement of the goods to the port of origin or the port of
destination.
2. Safety- It is about the safety of the goods or the goods should not be damaged during
transportation.

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3. Security of money.

Logistic management is the flow of goods between the point of origin and the point of the
consumption in order to make some requirement. Finish goods are transported to port through
forwarder. Forwarder is nominated by buyers. Shipment is done through sea mode. For sea mode,
transportation is done through ports like:
Aqaba Sea port, Aqaba city (Jordan) through Feeder Vessel
Haifa Israel (Red sea)
Depending upon the quantity of goods, containers are decided. Up till the handover the goods on
the ports, charges are carried by exporter & Rest is carried by buyer.

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Learning
Internship at Jordan bring us a distinctive experience, for the first time we were introduced to the
Specified buyer requirement and their exclusive standards and practices followed among the
north American Buyers and their customers.

The Size System Followed in North America is Entirely different to what we have back
home in India.
For instance in the the women clothing, North American size standards are entirely different their
size chart is vividly designed based on the combinations like the age classification and a number of
varied parameter which measure inseam of the jeans its waist, waist fit style etc

Women's clothing is broken up into a handful of other smaller categories: juniors, petite, misses,
and women's (often used as a term for plus size). You may also find regular/average and tall sizes
within a line in which the sizing will be slightly different to cover the extra length of the legs, arms,
and torso. Average sizes range from 5'4" to 5'8". Some women's sizing charts overlap. For
example, there are plus sizes within juniors sizes, tall misses sizes, and so on. Available sizes will
vary by manufacturer, as will the measurements for each size.

Juniors
These clothes are often created with younger women and those with slim hips in mind. Women
with dramatic hourglass figures or pear shapes may not have the best luck in this section. Those
with boyish or "ruler" shapes will most likely enjoy these best. Sizing is done in odd numbers, from
size 1 up to 13 or 15. Some stores offer a selection of plus size or tall juniors clothing too.

Petites
Petite sizing is available for women who are 5'4" and under. The sizing is similar to that of the
misses sizing in that the sizes are even numbers, but the inseams, shirt lengths, and sleeve lengths
are shorter. They're created with a smaller frame overall in mind.

Misses
Misses are generally the average sizes for women with a few more curves than those who fit into
the junior’s category. The difference between juniors and misses sizing, aside from the room for
extra curves is the fact that misses sizing is done in even sizes instead of odd. Sizes range from 0 to
around 12.

Women's/Plus
Plus sizes usually start around size 14 and are often marked with a W, as in 14W. You can find
women's, or plus sizes in tall and juniors sizes.

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Tall
Tall sizes are for women over 5'8". You'll find longer inseam lengths, sleeve lengths, and if most
regular sizes leave your midriff showing a bit, you'll be glad to know that the shirt lengths are
often longer, too. Tall sizes are available in juniors, misses, and plus sizes.

The Parameter that defines the Measurement of sizes:

Bust: The measure around woman’s arms and around the fullest part of her bust.
Waist: The measure around woman’s natural waistline.
Hips: The measure around the fullest part of woman’s hips about 8" below her waist.
Inseam: The measure of the inside seam from crotch to hem.

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The Migrant Labour Factor:
The factories in Jordan prefer South Asian Migrant Labour Workforce as a first choice for
manufacturing purpose at Hi-Tech Textile, Jordan itself 85% of the Workforce comprise of the
South Asian Migrant Labourers, the primary reason being that it had been noticed that labourers
coming from economically poor countries like Bangladesh and Pakistan are readily accepting the
work profile assigned to them and are hard worker to their local counterparts major factors
driving this nature of migrant labourers is that most of them have came to Jordan to make more
money as to what they could have made in their own country and more work mean more money,
also the absence of family in the host country prevent unnecessary diversion to workers personal
life which are quiet common for their Jordanian counterparts who had their families to go back to,
that is why they feel encourage and comfortable to work overtime and even on weekends which is
quiet opposite to what we know of about workers back home in India.

The certain sense of job security and limited option to left one company for another helps the
company retain most of its workforce and maintain a staggering less than 1% absenteeism rate in
Hi-Tech Textile, Jordan.

High incentive rates and commitment to earn more money pushes these migrant worker to give
astonishing more then 75% efficiency for the Denim Jeans Manufacturing companies.

FTA-Free Trade Agreement

Jordan is Locate Next to Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria and Israel which is regarded as the oil producing
belt of the world but to this date there is no declared oil well in Jordan, which makes the country
bound to weak economy and poor stability, but being largest border share country with Israel the
Close Allies with USA, Jordan enjoys several trade benefits and waiver so as to sustain a flourishing
economy and in the league of same the biggest supporting and driving factor of the Apparel CMT
business in Jordan is their Free trade Agreement with Washington DC and Ottawa.

It provides the much needed boom for the business flourishing in Jordan.

Thanks to this FTA agreement the apparel exports from Jordan to USA has been growing at 9%
year or year for past 3 years.

At internship we were introduced to several facts and realities of the mass manufacturing and
Denim and its Market size in the world.

We came to know the fact that today the Denim Jeans Market stands at $51 Billion USD which is
huge and is estimated to outgrow $64 Billion USD by the year 2020.

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Also the Staggering Fact was that Average Per Capita Consumption of USA stands at 8 pairs per
person per annum and what was more shocking was India has a per capita consumption of just 0.3
pairs per person per annum.

The Global Denim Market Sphere is dominated by North America which in itself was

Sampling Dept it is the primary department which plays a pivotal role in getting the orders and
deals closed with the buyer.

 Very Highly Trained Craftsmen works in the sampling phase of the garment so as to
reproduce the garment as per the exact needs of the buyer
 Most of the work done in sampling department is based on the experience and skill of the
person working.
 Sampling is carried out usually in make though system and the operators handling the
garments in the sampling are multi skilled.
 Each Garment is Handled with Imminent care as it is probably the first time the style is
being ever reproduced by the person and there is huge pressure to get it all correct in the
first go as there is already a constrained on fabric and trim quantity and rejection of
sample by the buyer would mean starting the entire process again.
 Sample approval is a must as multiple failure and sampling might cost huge amount of time
losses for the factory and they might overshoot the Estimated Delivery Dates.

CAD dept: CAD or Pattern making department is the one of the high stake department which is
tasked to Reproduce the Pattern based on buyer requirement in the first go so that the exact
replica of the asked garment is produced.
They are also responsible for planning and order the cut order plan for the fabric scheduled for

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Cutting department, it is a crucial step as Fabric Cost nearly 40 to 60% of the garment cost thus it
is a high value product.

Fabric Store: Fabric store is the first department that receives the high value Commodity in
garment manufacturing i.e. fabric after 60 day lead time. Thus it the important responsibility of
Fabric store to:

 Shade sort the rolls received.

 Carry out Inspection of Fabric Rolls for defects.
 Carry out Shrinkage tests and prepare reports.
 Inform Merchandising about discrepancies if any, immediately to help avoid any
production plan crunch later.

Inventory Capacity Planning: Inventory plays a major role in determining how much
capital is stocked among various departments in the factory. Often times a factory procures a 5%
extra on every procurement of raw material so as to ensure avoidance of material crunch if some
pieces are later rejected but international buyer sometimes are reluctant in buying Overstock if
the saw weaker demands or their policies might sometimes be against the same in these scenarios
the factory is left with Deadstock which pile up over time and needs to be liquidated to buyer
nominated 3rd parties or to the local market what these dead stock does sometimes is that it
occupies a significant amount of carton area which leads Packaging and finishing manager to
arrange for alternate places to stack finished goods in case the Carton area is Overcapacity now
this bid to make profit creates a mouth for unnecessary losses also as carton are sometimes
stored in finishing dept. or open area which can be subjected to weather uncertainty and other
serious hazards that could potential jeopardise the shipment thus management of Inventory level
is a very import task to plan for in a factory.

Motion Time study and its Positive effects: We were surprised what miraculous
productivity and efficiency improvements can be made out by simple principles of motion time
study and how much time & Money can be saved using the same,

Motion time Study have a potential to influence the rate and capacity of every operation being
performed in the factory.

 It can help reduce the number of people required to do the same amount of work
 We can use mts to increase the efficiency of each operator with incurring any capital
commitments.
 We can reduce the work load and improve the work quality.
 It can help us in planning an alternative approach altogether.
 Time Study can help predict how much amount of time and resources actually are required
to be committed to any operation.

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Shade Variation can pose serious difficulty for a Denim Manufacturer as Entire Sale point for
style factor any jeans is its wash shade and effects with which almost all the jeans appear to be
the same.

Troubled Shade reproduction by the washing department or shade deviation from the standards
provided by the buyer might potential lead the entire shipment in jeopardy.

It was noticed that in order to control washing costs several times the alternate chemical used in
mass production produces an entirely different effects from what was created after sampling
phase mass manufacturing in washing is critical in the sense the decision has to be made between
trade-off between costlier chemicals and their counterparts.

Improper Feeding or Material Flow could potentially land a factory in disaster it is always
planed for by the companies that material keeps on flowing through with proper feeding intervals
as failing on any one of the either options Creates a bottle neck and huge cost implication in form
of production loss, underutilised capacity and over cost burden which had to be dealt with in
order to get the product made in overtime.

Observations:
Sampling:
• There was a difference in the graded cut measured fabric and the actual cut fabric while
handling an order for the production sampling of a dress pant product.

• The requested actual cutting was left at the mercy of the skill of the sampling operator and
no changes were registered or requested for internal inspection for the production team
or pattern master.

• This might seriously jeopardise the production garment quality as the overshoots might be
over the tolerance level in the garment.

Cutting:
• Irregular cut feed leads the department either running on under capacity on some days and
over capacity leads into running extra shift.

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Fabric Store:
• No record is kept that which particular roll is kept in which rack. So, when fabric of a
particular style received in long back date was required they waste the time to search the
entire Store.

Sewing:
• Unused machines lying within the lines end up using the line space and hinder labourer
movement.

 Blocked passage ways leading to delayed WIP movement.

 High amount of WIP piled at some work stations.
 Difference in the number of operators planned by The IE Dept. and the operators
assigned by line supervisors.
 Hemming, Corners and Waistband operations consistently recording defects.
 Careless piles of garments are created possibly lead into missing and damaging of
garments from such unorganised piles.

Washing:
• Improper assignment of workforce is leading into increased throughput time and missed
targets in washing department.

• Old stock hindering the storing capacity.

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 • Improper documentation of sampling recipes leading into disperances in production
washes and recreating the wash variation for the repeat styles by the sampling department
creating unnecessary bottle necks at sample arrival and production time line management.

• Dangerous concentration of toxic fumes build-up at PP Spray room and wet process area.

• Reworking at the production and time losses during the first run is creating huge
bottlenecks.

Finishing:
• Unnecessary buffer stock is created due to Disrupted sequence of cut-order No. Moved
from the production floor.
Products arriving from washing following this Disrupted flow leads in buffer which
consumes the already constrained capacity of Finishing Area.

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PROJECT : 1 (Improving Material Flow and Reducing the material
throughput time incorporating the principles of plant layout and motion
time economy.)

(PLANT LAYOUT)

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Objective of the Project:

The Factories are subject to continuous evolution with the evolving order sizes and flourishing
order but sometime this reactive planning to increasing order demands itself limit the Full
potential utilisation of the factory work space as the short term measure which might be seeming
appropriate at the time might themselves pose a problem to evolution of plant design though a
spike a production is observed by such measures but rarely does a manager took time to re-
evaluate the entire plant planning. Thorough this project we explored studied the possible feasible
changes in the factory layout and their implication on production.

Scope of the Project:

This project offers an insight into how the redistribution of Factory & Floor are and introduction of
alternative material movement pathways can significantly bring the amount of time spend on
Material transition and Handling.

Literature:
A Jeans Spends Typically Spends 6 to 8 Weeks in a factory since the day it enter the factory in the
form of a Fabric rolls and trims and during these 6 weeks it spend significant amount of time in
each department it Usually Begins from the Fabric Store and ends at the Finishing Department
when its’ packed to be shipped. As the mass manufacturing means large order sizes it also means
large number of machines and huge floor spaces occupied by different departments across a huge
factory floor Area at which usually spans over several square kilometres. Though each product has
to wait in each department while waiting for its turn for the operation to be performed upon it
but the large factory sizes also adds the huge distance the garment has to travel within the factory
till the time it is completely made this is called material handling and transition time and this time
keeps on adding up with the ever increasing number of the departments and their sizes and
distances.

Departments a 5 pocket Denim Will go through while being in mass production at a Jeans
Manufacturer.

 Fabric Store
 Trim Store
 Cutting Department
 Embroidery Department
 Sewing Department

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  Preparation Department
 Washing Department
 Finishing and Packaging Department

Factory Under Observation:

Hi-Tech Textile L.L.C, Jordan

Area of the Factory: 1088sq meter

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 Actual Layout Proposed Layout

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 Actual Layout

Machine
Maintenance

Pocket
Attachment

Proposed Layout

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 Here is the Flow chart study for the Actual Layout
S No. Activity Inspection Operation Transportation Delay Storage Remarks
Distance in m

1 Fabric Brought into

factory and stocked
2 Fabric Inspection
(10% 4point system)
3 Moved to Cutting 20 m
4 Temporary stock
5 Spreading
6 Cutting Operation
7 Ticketing
8 Cut panels sorted
9 Panels Stocked 60m
10 Pocket panels moved 210 m
to embroidery
11 Embroidery
operation
12 Embroidered panels 360m
sent back to Cutting
13 Cut panels moved to
Lift for sewn floor
14 Lift moves to 1st floor
15 Panels moved out of
lift
16 Cut Panels moved to 430m
Storage racks behind
lines
17 Panels and pocket
sorted
18 Moved to Pocket 475m
attachment room
19 Pocket attachment
operation
20 Moved back to the 510m
lines
21 Fed into sewn line
22 Simultaneous
operations
23 Inspection In line
24 Moved to Assembly
section of line
25 Assembly operations
26 End line inspection 540m
27 bundled
28 Moved to Shoot 570m
29 Data entry at Shoot
Desk

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30 Moved down the
shoot
31 Sorted at
Preparation room
32 Sent to preparation
Dock
33 Sent to washing
34 Received at washing 3,570m
35 Dry Process
36 Wet Processes
37 Washing
38 Dried
39 Loaded into truck
40 Moved back to Main 6,570m
Factory
41 Moved to Finishing 6,590m
Department
42 Inspected for was
defects and
deviations
43 Sent for Button
Attachment
44 Ironing
45 Buck Pressing
46 Label Attachment
47 Packaging
48 Moved to Storage 6,620m
49 Loaded into
Container
50 Shipped

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 Here is the Flow chart study for the Proposed Layout
S No. Activity Inspection Operation Transportation Delay Storage Remarks

1 Fabric Brought into

factory and stocked
2 Fabric Inspection
(10% 4point system)
3 Moved to Cutting 20 m
4 Temporary stock
5 Spreading
6 Cutting Operation
7 Ticketing
8 Cut panels sorted
9 Panels Stocked 30m
10 Pocket panels moved 95m
to embroidery
11 Embroidery
operation
12 Embroidered panels
sent back to sewn
floor
13 Cut panels moved to 120m
Lift for sewn floor
14 Lift moves to 1st floor
15 Panels moved out of
lift
16 Cut Panels moved to 122m
Storage racks behind
lines
17 Panels and pocket
sorted
18 Moved to Pocket 132m
attachment room
19 Pocket attachment
operation
20 Moved back to the 170m
lines
21 Fed into sewn line
22 Simultaneous
operations
23 Inspection In line
24 Moved to Assembly
section of line
25 Assembly operations
26 End line inspection 210m
27 bundled
28 Moved to Shoot 260m

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29 Data entry at Shoot
Desk
30 Moved down the
shoot
31 Sorted at
Preparation room
32 Sent to preparation
Dock
33 Sent to washing
34 Received at washing 3260m
35 Dry Processed
36 Wet Processes
37 Washed
38 Dried
39 Loaded into truck
40 Moved back to Main 6,260m
Factory
41 Moved to Finishing 6,280m
Department
42 Inspected for was
defects and
deviations
43 Sent for Button
Attachment
44 Ironing
45 Buck Pressing
46 Label Attachment
47 Packaging
48 Moved to Storage 6,320m
49 Loaded into
Container
50 Shipped

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Comparisons:
 By shifting the Fabric Store Storage itself we have reduced the distance to be travelled to
storage by 30meters.
 By changing the location of the Embroidery Unit we have effectively cut short the travel
trip by 85meters.
 By opening the Canteen Elevator at 1st floor we have reduced the Embroidery to
Production floor trip of the bundles by 100meters
 By starting the Sewn lines from opposite direction and making storage of fabric on the side
of life we can reduce the storage trip of bundles at the production floor by 35meters
 By changing the Machine maintenance room with pocket attachment room we can reduce
the trip of Pocket panel bundles by 35meters

Conclusion:
we can potential save more than 48% of the Trip distance for material movement within the
factory if the proposed plant layout is implemented.

Which can significantly reduce the Spending over maintain the High inventory and the product
turnaround time will also be reduced

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 PROJECT : 2 (Line Re-arrangement)

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 Objective: Increasing productivity and capacity of the sewing floor in same shift hour by
introducing 4 new line of 55 machine in the same area

PRODUCTION (SEWING) FLOOR

DEPARTMENT AREA (Sq. Mtr.)

TOTAL FLOOR AREA 3440.2 Sq. Mtr.
POCKET SETTER ROOM 170.78 Sq. Mtr.
MAINTENANCE ROOM 164.67 Sq. Mtr.
SEWING FLOOR AREA 3013.7 Sq. Mtr.

The Area of the Sewing Floor is 3013.7 Sq. Mtr.

In which, Available Width of Sewing Floor = 83.5 - 10.35 = 73.15 Mtr.
And Available Length of Sewing Floor = 41.2 Mtr.

There are 8 Lines each consists of 2 rows available in the Sewing floor.
The Capacity of each line per Day (10 Hours) is 2000 - 2200 Pcs.

So, Capacity of the Total Sewing Floor is upto 16000 Pcs/Day ( 10 Hours ) *taking 2000 Pcs as an
average*.

On an Approx, 55 - 60 Machines are there in each Line.

 Dimension of JUKI Single Needle Lockstitch (SNLS) Machine -

o Length = 48 inches = 1.21 ≈ 1.25 Meters
o Width = 20.25 inches = 0.51 Mtr. ≈ 0.7 Meters

* Taking this Dimension as a Base dimensions for all Machines available in Sewing floor. *

Width of Sewing Floor = 73.15 Mtr.

Calculations :

 Length of 2 JUKI SNLS Machines in a line = 1.25 X 2 = 2.5 Meters ≈ 3 Meters (2 rows in a
Line )
 Width of Table in between the rows of machine in the line = 30 Inches = 0.76 Meters.
 Area left for movement of trolleys between lines or Passage ways = 2 Meters

Total Length = 3 + 0.76 + 2 = 5.76 Meters ≈ 6 Meters

And, Width of Sewing Floor = 73.15 Mtr.

Total Length required to set-up a line = 6 Meters

Lines Set-up in Sewing Floor = 73.15/6 = 12.19 Lines ≈ 12 Lines (Each of 2 Rows).

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 12 Lines can be easily Set-up in the Sewing Floor each of 2 Rows with a preferably required
passage ways and Tables in between the rows which can be used for Material Movement.

Now, The Company only running with 8 lines consists of 450 Machines. (Approx)
Due to Improper floor utilization and Improper management of Inventories and Stocks.

Through This Proposal we get,

 4 Extra lines of machines with two rows each. So, Total 12 lines can be fully used for
production.
 Approx. 55 Machines in a Line. So, 220 Extra machines can be installed in a same provided
space.
 A 2 Meter long gap between the lines for moving trolleys which can also be considered as a
passage way which is more enough to help a person in emergencies.
 A 30 Inches Table space which can be used for easy material flow.
 Enough space for specialized machines at the end of every row. Ex. Button hole
machine, loop attaching machines etc.

Financial Possibilities :
Though this proposal, we get 4 extra lines each consists of 55 machines. So, 220 Extra Machines can
be installed in a same provided space.
Which Means, Total Capacity in term of Machines can be increased by 220 Machines.
The company already running 8 lines with 450 Machines.
Now, Total Machine = 450 + 220 = 670 Machines.

o The Machine Capacity increased with 670 Machines and 12 Lines.

The Capacity of each line per Day (10 Hours) is 2000 - 2200 Pcs.
And, The Capacity of the Total Sewing Floor is upto 16000 Pcs/Day.

So, If we get 4 extra lines the Production Capacity itself can be increased by 8000 Pcs/Day (10
Hours).

The Total Capacity of 12 Lines = 16000 + 8000 = 24000 Pcs/Day ( 10 Hours ).

The Total Capacity can be increased upto 24000 Pcs/Day.

Calculations :

 Width of a JUKI SNLS Machines in a line = 0.5 Meters

 Working space required for each operators = 0.5 Mtr.

Total Length Required = 0.5 + 0.5 = 1 Meter.

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Length of Sewing Floor = 41.2 Mtr.
In which,
o Length of the Offices = 3 Mtrs. (Approx.)
o 3 Passage ways each of 2 Mtrs. = 6 Mtrs.
o 1 Storage Rack = 0.5 Mtr

Total Remaining Area = 41.2 - 4 - 6 - 0.5 = 31.7 Mtrs ≈ 32 Mtrs.

Total Width Required to set-up a Machine is 1 Meter including working space required for
operators.

In a line, There are 55 Machines ( Approx. ) which can be divided in 2 rows.

So, In One Row = 55/2 = 27.5 ≈ 28 Machines.

There are 28 Machines used in a row which require 28 Meter.

Remaining Space = 32 - 28 = 4 Meters.

4 Meter is still remaining which can be used for Proper Storage of garments, Work in progress,
Specialized Machines etc.

BENEFITS OF CHANGING THE LAYOUT

o The sewing lines can straight and won‟t be clumsy anymore.
o The sewing machines can be increased (more sewing lines can be laid)
o Production will automatically increase as more spaces for more machines let it be, loop
attachment or button attachment machines.
o It would be easier to attract more buyers as the new layout will help to follow all the
requirement of the buyers much easily.

1. Convert the vacant places as stores - Idle or vacant spaces in the campus can be converted into
Material storage.

2. Idle machines or the machines which are not working immediately remove from he line and
can be sent into Maintenance Room or Machine Yard.

4. Dust bins not used properly - use of dustbins in the sewing floor must be proper, there must not
be any garment waste lying on the floor making the place clumsy.

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PROJECT : 3 (PRODUCTION IMPROVEMENT OF TROUSER SEWING LINE)
(MOTION STUDY)

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OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT
Primary objective : To do a Motion study to Eliminate unproductive operations performed by the
operators and to train them for the same.

Secondary objective : To increase their efficiency and hence, the production. Proper line
balancing and work in progress.

SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

The scope of this project is very large as this is the only possible way to increase the efficiency of
line and as to balance the line is such a proper way so that the line requires minimum WIP.

LITERATURE
The operation of Trousers line is categorized into three sections; preparatory section, front and
back end line and the assembly line. In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment is
matched and graded for the production. Then it is send to the front and back end line where the
front side and the backside of a trouser are made and finally to the assembly line for the final
assembling of the parts.

PARTS OF TROUSERS
 Front panel- 2
 Back panel- 2
 Waist band- 2
 Back patch pocket- 2
 Coin pocket- 1
 Pocket Facing
 Fly- 1
 Elastic

OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN
FRONT PANEL PREPARATION
1. coin pocket preparation
2. coin pocket attachment
3. facing over lock
4. facing outline
5. front crotch over lock
6. label attachment crotch outline
7. crotch finishing
8. j- stitch

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BACK PANEL PREPARATION

1. back pocket hem

2. yoke over lock
3. back yoke outline
4. back rise over lock
5. back rise outline
6. back pocket attachment

ASSEMBLY

1. inseam over lock

2. inseam outline
3. out seam over lock
4. waistband gathering
5. waistband tagging
6. label attachment
7. elastic setting
8. waistband catalog
9. waistband attach
10. label attachment
11. waistband tagging
12. waistband close
13. bottom hem
14. bar tag.

SAM for the current style in line - 6 (KC-RMF5BWP07) is 16.5 minutes.

METHODOLOGY

 To find out problem in trouser sewing line (excess of un-productive motions).

 To remove unproductive motion
 To achieve the given target
 Work sampling

FOLLOWING PROBLEM FOUND -

 More waiting time for loading - at times workers had to search for the garment panels
 More style change - due to frequent change in style workers need to adjust for every style
resulting in start-up losses & learning curve.
 More number of unproductive motions performed - all the motions produced by the
workers are not productive motions.
 WIP is less (not constant) - the WIP between two workers are not constant.
 Operator sitting idle - few of the times the workers are found idle
 Empty machines - few of the times the machine was idle.

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  Line Balancing - if two operations are merged, it will save time.

STEPS TAKEN -

1. To find out problem

2. To do method study
3. To do loss time study
4. Work sampling
5. Motivate them to work efficiently
6. Suggest training of operators (to perform productive motions and eliminate un productive
motions)

PROBLEM ANALYSIS THROUGH TIME & MOTION STUDY

Time saved
S.No Operation name Operator
( In Sec. )
Name M/C Type
1 Coin pocket Shirin
Preparation SNLS 0.5
2 Coin pocket Salma
Attachment DNLS 0.5
3 Facing overlock Tammana 5 THREAD OL 0
4 Facing outline Tirini DNLS 2
5 Front crotch overlock Nasreen 5 THREAD OL 2.5
6 Label attachment Deepika
Crotch outline SNLS 0
7 J-stitch Julia DNLS 0.75
8 Crotch finishing Uma DNLS 2

9 Back pocket hem Somlata SNLS 0

10 Yoke overlock Alya 5 THREAD OL 0

11 Back yoke outline Priyanka DNLS 2

12 Backrise overlock Murshida 5 THREAD OL 1

13 Backrise outline Harara DNLS 1
14 Backpocket Sweety
Attachment DNLS 0.5
15 Inseam overlock Bhandaar 5 THREAD OL 1.5
16 Inseam outline Bilkis DNLS 2
17 Outseam overlock Sesmi 5 THREAD OL 2
18 Waistband gathering Tanuja FLATLOCK 2
19 Waistband tagging Barbin SNLS 2.5
20 Label attachment Mona SNLS 0

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 21 Elastic setting Dhulangi SNLS 2.5
22 Waistband flatlock Rokia FLATLOCK 1.5
23 Waistband attach Nandita SNLS 0.5
24 Label attachment Nitu SNLS 0.5
25 Waistband tagging Beauty SNLS 0.5
26 Waistband close Malkanti SNLS 0.5
27 Bottom hem Lakhi SNLS 0
28 Bartag Pushpa BARTAG 0.25
Total 29 Sec.

Suggestions
1. Shirin
 While picking up the panel and placing to the Machine, She is losing some of the time
because she have to bent more to collect the WIP.
 It can be improved with proper line balancing.
2. Salma
 While picking up the panel and while placing the completed panel simultaneous
movement is lacking.
 Can be improved by talking to the operator.
3. Tammana
 No recommendations.
4. Tirini
 While picking up the panel and while placing the completed panel
simultaneous movement is lacking.
 If a bin can be placed on her right for picking up panel she needs to stitch time
will be saved
5. Nasreen
 If proper area is marked on her left to pick up panel and on her right to keep the
completed panel, time will be saved.
 Simultaneous movement of hands is not there.
 Can be solved by talking to the operators about it.

6. Deepika
 No recommendations

7. Julia
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing while keeping the completed panel
and picking up the next panel.
 Area should be marked for keeping the completed panel to save time.

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 8. Uma

 Initial movement can be done simultaneously

 Should be told about rhythmic and simultaneous movements.

9. Somlata

 No recommendation

10. Alya

 No recommendation

11. Priyanka

 Proper bin and area marking should be made to pick up and keep finished panels.
 Simultaneous use of both hands
 Lack of rhythmic motion.

12. Murshida

 Simultaneous use of both hands is lacking

 Placement of marked area is required

13. Harara

 Need to be told about rhythmic and simultaneous movements of hand while

picking up and dropping completed panels

14. Sweety

 Area should be marked to save time and so that simultaneous movement can happen

15. Bhandaar

 Should be told about simultaneous movement of hand

 Reduce un necessary motions.
 Bin should be kept for collection completed panels to that simultaneous
picking and dropping can be done

16. Bilkis
 Bin should be kept in the front and trimming should be done later to that efficiency
is not reduced.
 Simultaneous movement of hand is lacking

17. Sesmi
 Lack of simultaneous movement

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  Marked area for panel placing
 Need to be told about continuous movements

18. Tanuja
 Area should be marked
 Lack of simultaneous and rhythmic motion of hand
19. Barbin
 Lack of simultaneous movement of hands
 Area should be marked for placements

20. Mona
 This operation is not required and can be merged with the previous operation which
can save time

21. Dhulangi
 Picking up of elastic and panel is not simultaneous
 More time in setting the elastic
 Proper area should be marked for completed panel placements

22. Rokia
 Proper marking of area on both left and right side is necessary to pick up and keep
finished panels
 Continuous and rhythmic motion should be done

23. Nandita
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing

24. Nitu
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing

25. Beauty
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing

26. Malkanti
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing

27. Lakhi
 No recommendation

28. Pushpa
 Simultaneous movement of hand is missing.
OUTCOME

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  Total time which can be saved in construction of one pant = 29 seconds.
 Total working hours of line - 6 = 10 hours
 Line - 6 Consists of 2 Rows of 28 Machines = 28 * 2 = 56 ≈ 55 Machines
Total Machines in Line - 6 = 55 Machines.

 Total Throughput time for Line - 6 in a hour = 55 * 60 = 3300 min.

 Production/hour in line - 6 = 200 pcs
 Total Time which can be saved in line - 6 per Hour = 200*29 = 5800 Sec. = 96.6 Mins.

 Total Throughput time for Line - 6 in a Day (10 Hours) = 55 * 60 * 10 = 33000 min.
 Production/Day in line - 6 = 2000 pcs
 Total Time which can be saved in line - 6 per day = 2000*29 = 58000 Sec. = 966.6 Mins.
which is equal to 16.11 Hrs.

Total Throughput time time can be saved in a line - 6 per day (10 hours) = 966.6 Mins.

And also, In Second Assembly operation the operator have to stand and go back to pick the new
Bundle which consists of 20 Pieces due to Passage way and Improper setting of lines.

 1 Bundle = 20 Pcs.
 10 Bundle in a hour = 10 * 20 = 200 Pcs.
 100 Bundles in a day = 100 * 20 = 2000 Pcs.

Problem -

The Operator have to stand and go back to pick her new Bundle and she did this 100 times a day.
In which she losses her 15 Sec. (Approx.) to Pick the new bundle, open it and continue her process.

Total time she losses in a day = 100 * 15 = 1500 Sec. = 25 Min.

Total time she losses in this activity in a day is 25 Min.

Solution -
We can save this time by providing her a helper or by shifting Feeder machine closer to next
operator. We can do that by rearranging the line properly and shift unwanted machine or idle
machines to the Maintenance room which is on the same floor. By doing that, There is proper
space available to shift that feeding machine closer to the next operator. So that, the Material
flow will be smooth and uninterrupted.

we already save 966.6 Mins. in a day (10 hours).

And, we also save 25 Mins. in a day.

Total Time we Save in a day of Production = 966.6 + 25 = 991.6 Mins.

Total Throughput time used by line - 6 in a day = 33000 Min.

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 Total Production/Day = 2000 Pcs.

We know that the Total SAM of the Current garment is 16.5 Mins.

So, Total Extra Garments can be made with that Saved time = 991.6/16.5 = 60.09 ≈ 60
Gmts.

So, 60 Extra garments can be made with this saved time in a day (10 hours).

Our New Capacity of 1 line will be 2060 Garments per day.

And, There are 8 lines currently running in the Production floor = 2060 * 8 = 16480 Garments.

So, The New Capacity of the Production floor raised from 16000 Pcs to 16480 Pcs per day.

 Monthly Capacity

On a Month (25 working days) the previously Capacity of Production floor = 16000 * 25 = 4,00,000
Gmts.

And, The New Capacity of production floor in a month = 16480 * 25 = 4,12,000 Gmts.

The Capacity of Production Floor is increased by 12000 Gmts in a month.

 Yearly Capacity

On a Year, the previously Capacity of Production floor = 4,00,000 * 12 = 48,00,000 Gmts.

And, The New Capacity of production floor in a Year = 4,12,000 * 12 = 49,44,000 Gmts.

Difference in yearly Capacity = 49,44,000 - 48,00,000 = 1,44,000 Gmts

The Capacity of Production Floor is increased by 1,44,000 Gmts in a Year.

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 SUGGESTIONS

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 SUGGESTIONS

In this 14 weeks of Internship, We undergo with many day to day production related difficulties and
ensures that the company is facing problems in Planning, Managing, Quality, Hourly Production,
Cutting and Material Tracking. On the basis of our Observations and Theoretical knowledge, we
would like to suggest some ideas to the company.

Our suggestions is as follows :

1. Follow Traffic light system

Traffic light inspection system like other quality inspection tools, traffic light inspection system is
widely used in garment quality inspection. This system is used to stop producing defect at source.
This is a random inspection system. Traffic light system is more effective in controlling shop floor
quality than other quality tools because of its visual communication. At the same time it measure
operator's performance level in quality.

No operators like be presented themselves as lower quality makers. They concentrate on quality
aspect during stitching garments.

The format used for displaying as well as recoding audit report. The format is very simple to use and
to understand. The format is printed on a slightly thick A4 sheet and hanged on the sewing machine.
In this system quality auditor visit operator's workplace 4 times in a day (considering 8 hours shift
day) and inspects stitched garments and fill circles with colour according to the inspection result.

Standard Sample Size: 5 pieces.

Garment Inspection to be done after every two hours.
Colour marking procedures : Circles will be filled with colour.
 Green : If Found No Defect
 Yellow : If Found 1 Defect
 Red : If Found 2 Defects

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 Traffic Light System Format
How to fill/use the format :
The above format is used for a single operator or workstation. A single sheet will keep record for
the whole month for an operator. As a quality auditor, on the first day of the month you have to
fill details such as Operator name, Operation name, Line number, Floor number(if applied) and

name of the Month. Inspection instructions have been given on the format itself with rating
procedures. The format is displayed in two sections to cover 31 days (whole month). Write date in
the cells of top row. Each column contains 4 circles, represents four inspections in a day. After
inspection fill the respective circle (date and number of inspection of the day) according to the
rating criteria. At the end of the day quality auditor has to sign report on below the circles.
2. RFID (If Buyer requires)

The use of RFID Technology in the Apparel Industry

RFID stands for Radio-Frequency Identification. The acronym refers to small electronic devices
that consist of a small chip and an antenna. The chip typically is capable of carrying 2,000 bytes of
data or less.

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 Radio-frequency identification (RFID) is the wireless use of electromagnetic fields to transfer
data, for the purposes of automatically identifying and tracking tags attached to objects. The tags
contain electronically stored information. Some tags are powered by electromagnetic from
magnetic fields produced near the reader. Some types collect energy from the interrogating radio
waves and act as a passive transponder. Other types have a local power source such as a battery
and may operate at hundreds of meters from the reader.
Unlike a barcode, the tag does not necessarily need to be within line of sight of the reader and
may be embedded in the tracked object. RFID is one method for Automatic
Identification and Data Capture.

RFID tags are used in many industries. For

example, an RFID tag attached to a garment
during production can be used to track its
progress through the production line.

The RFID device serves the same purpose as

a bar code or a magnetic strip on the back
of a credit card or ATM card; it provides a
unique identifier for that object. And, just
as a bar code or magnetic strip must be
scanned to get the information, the RFID device must be scanned to retrieve the
identifying information.

 RFID in the Apparel Industry

Radio Frequency Identification, or RFID, is similar in function to a bar code on an apparel product
or shipping carton.

RFID provides manufacturers with the

ability to accurately track and safeguard
goods throughout the entire supply
chain to improve operating costs.
Apparel retailers benefiting from RFID

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receive real-time visibility into inventory
and product movement to reduce loss
prevention, improve store productivity
and boost brand loyalty. High levels of
safety stock‟ excess inventory ordered
to protect against out-of stocks can be
reduced.

The tags can be read through packaging and cartons without the line of sight necessary for
reading barcodes. RFID technology has three components :

 Microchip tags : that carry the data,

 Antennas : that send the data,
 Readers : Those interpret the data.

Cartons or products using RFID technology carry a transponder made from a microchip attached
to an antenna like the one pictured here. It can be very small but read distance performance will
depend on size. These tags can be placed in an apparel product without affecting its comfort or
look, for example, the tag might be in a seam or hem or in a paper carton label. The RFID readers
can be placed in the entry of a warehouse and, depending upon the size and frequency of the
RFID used, it can be read up to 20 feet though most in use today read only about 2 to 10 feet.

What needs to happen before RFID is used?

RFID is in its infancy and there are several roadblocks to its sweeping implementation. First, there
are many versions of RFID technology that operate at different radio frequencies and require
different software and readers. One or several frequencies need to be agreed upon so that there
can be interoperability between retailers, manufacturers, and distributors using only one set of
technologies. In addition, the cost of the technology needs to be reduced. Right now, it costs
about 40 cents per chip as compared to 4 cents for a barcodes. The cost of RFID readers and
software also need to be considered.

Standardization is underway in the organization of data into an Electronic Product Code (EPC),
currently a voluntary standard. The EPC, similar to the UPC for barcodes, includes a header and
three sets of data: manufacturer id, SKU, and item unique code, for a total of 96-bits of
information.
Privacy has become an issue as the microchip will remain in the product for its lifetime.
Several consumer activist groups are concerned that the consumer‟s privacy will be
compromised as their activities with the product could be followed by the technology. Industry
has countered this concern by developing systems to automatically deactivate the microchips at
time of purchase.

When will RFID be implemented?

RFID will be implemented at the carton level first, as this is where the greatest cost benefit
lies and where it will be the easiest to implement.

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 The Benefits of RFID

o Reduced out of stocks by 50 percent, sales volume and profits.

o Improves customer experience and speeds up service.
o Gives retailers and brands valuable information about the supply chain and
inventory as well as product consumption and cycle speed.
o Enables production monitoring, planning.
o Higher shipping accuracy. Reliable and fast goods receipt and shipping process.
o Minimize error in sorting, faster process.
o Reduction in restocking efforts, reducing labor costs.
o 90 percent reduction in labor associated with inventory counts.
o Reduction in receipt of counterfeit items.
o Reduced employee theft and shoplifting through improved monitoring of inventory
movement.
o Faster receiving and inbound processing.
o Lost sales due to the inability to locate inventory are eliminated.
o Since each product in a specific shipment has a unique identifier, quality assurance
and counterfeit prevention are enhanced.
o Improved accuracy in picking and packing operations translates into the proper
fulfillment of purchase orders.
o Better control over own supply chain management.
o Faster billing process.
o Easy to create advanced shipping notice (ASN).

RFID support companies

 Tagsys RFID
 IAITO INFOTECH PVT LTD

Cost

Most companies that sell RFID tags quote prices based on volume, the amount of memory on the
tag and the packaging of the tag. A passive 96-bit EPC inlay (chip and antenna mounted on a
substrate) costs from 7 to 15 U.S. cents. If the tag is embedded in a thermal transfer label on
which companies can print a bar code, the price rises to 15 cents and up. Low- and high-frequency
tags tend to cost a little more.
In garment industry it cost around 15000-18000 USD if used for 100000 panel pieces.

3. Inventory method not specified - The inventory storage should be carried on the first in first out
basis And ABC inventory method should be applied.

4. WIP Should be constant.

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5. Thread wastage - Thread wastage should be check, as many thread cones can be found lying on
the backyard.

6. Re-cutting record documentation - Proper re-cutting record documentation should be followed

(proper record should be maintained). Re-cutting the fabric for parts which are rejected during the
stitching process should be properly recorded.

7. Fastreact Evolution software can be used for better production or capacity planning. So that we
can meet the demands easily and it also helps in material tracking.

8. Dust bins not used properly - Use of dustbins in the sewing floor must be proper, there must not
be any garment waste lying on the floor making the place clumsy.

9. We also suggested to initiate the " 5's Quality Program " to improve the Quality, work conditions,
Methods of doing that work. It also helps in reduce the WIP or manages inventories as well as also
helps to increase the capacity and efficiency of the Plant.

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