Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
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athens
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Greek Islands
Top 10 up-and-coming
Athens beaches
A tram ride to the Med
N°15 - €2
inyourpocket.com
Contents 3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
History
A few thousand years in two pages 12
Districts of Athens
Be seen in the right places 14
Greek Islands
Top 10 up-and-coming 16
Athens beaches
Find the right one 19
Beach vendor selling fresh fruit
Culture & Events
What’s on 20 Dining & Nightlife
Where to stay Restaurants
5* or hostels, the best is here for you 22 How to avoid eating like a ‘tourist’ 29
Cafés
a piece of
e Nightlife
One of the main reasons you’re here! 42
city!
Available in the
Sightseeing
Monuments and Archaeological Sites 50
department sto
re
Karagiorgi Ser
Syntagma Sq
vias st 1 Acropolis Museum 54
Tel. 210 324 621
0
Museums 56
Historic Buildings 60
Getting Around
Airplanes, boats and trains 65
Shopping 69
Directory 72
Message from the Mayor Arriving by boat In Your Pocket Online Press Box
From Italy to Patras: There are many connections across
Dear visitors, the Adriatic Sea and a few ferry companies operate bet- “Solid, reliable information on everything from
ween the Italian ports of Brindisi and Ancona and the port where to book a reasonable B&B to how best
I welcome you to our city, of Patras. to spend 72 hours in a city.”
the city of myth and reality, If you have your own car, take the road to Korinthos and The Guardian
the city of history and vi- then on to Athens (220 km). Be extremely careful as this
sion, the City of Athens. poor excuse for a national road is very dangerous and
“You do not even need to pack a guidebook:
accidents happen very often. If you‘re traveling without a
The glorious Athens of an- car take the intercity bus (KTEL) to Athens central station just pick up an In Your Pocket when you
tiquity is becoming one (single €17.20). arrive.”
with the Athens of con- Simon Calder
temporary achievements From the islands to Piraeus: If you arrive in Piraeus by The Independent & LBC Radio
and quality, and invites the boat, chances are that you‘ll disembark within walking dis-
entire world to view the Greek capital not only tance of the metro terminal where you can get the metro to In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full, “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series
through the windows of culture and history, but the city centre. If you are too far (i.e. the cruise liners’ dock) since 1995, and our company has continually of guidebooks.”
also entertainment, gastronomy and shopping. or your luggage is too heavy, there is a free bus service that been at the cutting edge of internet development.
Take the time to truly discover Athens – preferably runs inside the harbour. Try to avoid taxis but if it is neces- The New York Times
The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides
on foot. Familiarise yourselves with the beauty of sary to use one, then pick one up from the street outside
(back in 2002) you can now download our entire
its landscape and the warmth of its people. the harbour area. “Most of the traditional guidebook companies
range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full -
now have decent websites, with plenty of advi-
So, together with the citizens of Athens, I welcome from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than
all of you to the city where the word “foreigner” Arriving by train 25,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while
ce and information either freely available or
downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com
means “guest”. I am confident your stay will forge There are daily international trains from Sofia, Bucharest, the site as a whole regularly attracts more than
unforgettable memories inspired by the beauty Istanbul and Belgrade to Thessaloniki, where you have to is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on
250,000 visitors per month.
of culture, eternal values, history and modern- change to the intercity train to the capital. This takes about both well-known and more offbeat European
day accomplishments, and that we will see you 5 hours and is very comfortable, reliable and frequent (refer Facebook & Twitter destinations, its free downloadable city and
again soon. to our ‘getting around’ pages).
Like In Your Pocket on Facebook, or follow us country guides are compiled by locals and
on Twitter, and you can get inside information regularly updated.”
However, a sleeping car coming from Sofia is attached to The Independent
Nikitas Kaklamanis the night train from Thessaloniki to Athens, so if you are the on what’s happening around the Pocket world,
Mayor of Athens romantic type and in no rush, the Sofia-Athens international as well as win exclusive prizes. You will also find
rail journey is an option. Finally for the really adventurous out first about new guides, new bars, restaurants “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is
rail lovers, Russian and Ukranian railways operate direct etc., and our team is also on hand to answer any that, unlike many expensive travel guides,
services from Moscow and Kyiv to Thessaloniki but only travel questions. they are written by native English speakers
during the summer. Find us on Twitter at twitter.com/inyour- living in the city they are writing about. That
Arriving by air pocket and on Facebook at facebook.com/ can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice
Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport City of Athens Info-Points inyourpocket. about your destination rather than jaded
The primary entry into Athens is its new airport, situated 27
impressions from world-weary professional
km (16.8 miles) east of Athens. To get to town you have a Make In Your Pocket better travel writers.”
choice between metro, suburban railway, bus, taxi and, of Tell us about your experiences in Pocket cities. A The Irish Times
course, car hire. year or so ago In Your Pocket took the interactive
plunge and began allowing readers to post com- “With so many European cities now within
Metro is probably the best option (40 minutes to the cen- easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this web-
tre of Athens). However, the construction of new stations
ments under our own reviews. The response has
been incredible, nowhere more so than in Riga, site is a (literally) priceless first stop before
along the line has caused the suspension of the service
for six months. where the famous rip-off joint Lord Pub has gar- your holiday. The guides are free to download
Suburban railway-Proastiakos (running every 30 min- nered so many comments from angry readers that and print off as pdfs and have information
utes) will take you to Nerantziotissa station, where you at one stage earlier this year our system couldn’t on where to eat and stay and what to see on
must change to enter the metro system. Tickets cost €6 cope: we had to reconfigure it to accommodate all European city breaks.”
for a single ride (€10 for two and €15 for three persons the feedback. All of our venues - and most of our The Times
traveling together). The city of Athens has introduced two Info-Points to features - are now open blogs ready for your com-
The bus ticket costs €3.20 and will take you to the follow- welcome visitors. Trained staff are ready to answer all
ing destinations: Bus X92 to Kifisia, Bus X93 to the central ments. If you have something to say on Warsaw’s “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an
your questions and provide information and guidance. raunchiest nightlife venues, say it at inyourpocket. English language writer who lives locally. All
intercity bus station, Bus X94 to Ethniki Amyna metro sta- The first Info-Point is located inside the Eleftherios
tion, Bus X95 to Syntagma Square, Bus X96 to Piraeus & com. If you want to flaunt your Cornish nationalist information is also available on the publisher’s
Venizelos airport arrival hall and the second inside the
the harbour and Bus X97 to Dafni metro station. Public department store, right on the central Syntagma credentials, do it at inyourpocket.com. Our local website.”
All the above except Bus X94 run 24hrs. square. editors are encouraged to reply to comments and Sueddeutsche Zeitung
Indicatively, it takes about 45 minutes to get to Syntagma This second point also serves as a “Breathtaking” store, make a point of taking on board what our readers
Square by bus, but that of course depends on the traffic. an outlet for the new line of Athens branded souvenirs are telling us. While we vet all comments before “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets
You can always pick up a taxi which costs about €35 du- produced by a top Greek designer.
ring daytime and €45-50 between 00:00 and 05:00 (but
publication, if you provide a valid email address have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding
refer to our taxi advice). we usually publish them all. So let rip! tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of
The Athens Tourism and Economic Development Com-
Finally, all major car rental companies keep desks inside pany has also launched two functional and informative
Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have beco-
the airport building. An array of shops and services is websites packed with information about the city. Check The In Your Pocket iPhone app me a European publishing phenomenon.”
available at the airport such as a post office, banks, news- them out at: www.breathtakingathens.com & www. It will be in the iTunes app store very soon Watch International Herald Tribune
stands, cafés, even an airport museum. athensconventionbureau.gr this space!
Plaka Psirri
Athens in two days D4 Bordered by Athinas, Ermou, Pireos, Evripidou
E5,E6,F6 Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Streets. MMonastiraki, Thissio.
Mitropoleos Streets. MSyntagma, Monastiraki. This neighbourhood of narrow streets, workshops, ware-
This is what Athens has to offer as an old town, a district most houses and wholesale shops of every kind, established itself
visitors feel obliged (and rightly so) to pass through at least as the ‘Soho’ of Athens about fifteen years ago. (Since then,
once, but few Athenians visit for their entertainment needs. this title has been variously attributed to each new nightlife
Countless tourist shops, selling kitsch ancient replicas and hub that springs up in previously deprived areas). Count-
tasteless souvenirs and many moussaka-restaurants, less bars, clubs, theatres, restaurants and cafés catered
most dating back to the 1970s, give the visitor a cliched for mixed crowds but the area has been in a steady decline
and somehow false view of Athens. However, if you wander as a nightlife destination, as the masses started to move
off the beaten track, through its picturesque and serene elsewhere. The food is generally average, with some excep-
meandering streets leading up to the Acropolis, you can tions, and some bars sell spirits of a low quality disguised
discover a plethora of architectural gems giving a unique feel in branded bottles (colloquially called ‘bombs’). Restaurants
of the city at the beginning of the twentieth century, as well A view from the Acropolis AIYP
with live Greek music often charge higher prices than the
as discovering many small museums to keep you occupied
for hours. The old neighbourhood of ‘Anafiotica’ just under Thissio quality of their food justifies, but if you want to experience
dancing and singing the Greek way, do enter any of them on
the Acropolis rock will give you a déjà-vu of your last Greek B5,C5,C6 Bordered by Ermou Street, Philopappou Hill, a Saturday evening, or even better a Sunday afternoon.
island holiday, right in the centre of Athens. Ancient Agora, MThissio.
One of the oldest districts of Athens. The Acropolis towering
Day One (see map trail pg 78-79): Kolonaki above and its many neoclassical buildings preserve the aura Omonia Square
Start your day early in Syntagma Square. See the H4,H5,I5 Bordered by: Vassilisis Sofias, Akadimias of a bygone era. Walk around the Ancient Agora and Philopap- and the area west of Athinas & September 3rd
changing of the guard in front of the House of Parlia- Streets and Lycabettus hill.MSyntagma. pou hill, soak up the atmosphere of the cradle of western Streets. D2,D3,E2,E3 MOmonia.
ment (on the hour) and walk along Amalias Avenue. Anyone who is (or thinks he is) anyone, lives or hangs around civilisation, imagine Socrates conversing with his disciples on This central square is the Balkan face of Athens. Buzzing
Enter the National Gardens, pass Zappeion and head Kolonaki Square (Filikis Eterias Square). The Athenian élite of these very same grounds and attune yourself to the rhythm and ugly, gritty and colourful, its working class crowds
towards the Panathenaic Stadium. Walk down Vasilis- politicians, high profile journalists, actors, models and power- of life of modern city-dwellers sipping their indispensable
sis Olgas Avenue, pass Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple mingle with immigrants, street traders, lottery ticket sellers
ful businessmen, together with idle non-working residents ‘frappé’ (iced coffee the Greek way) at one of the countless and, occasionally, weird and suspicious figures. If you head
of Olympian Zeus and cross to Plaka. Allow yourself who spend their days in the numerous posh cafés and restau- outdoor cafés directly facing the Sacred Rock.
to wander around its picturesque meandering streets towards the back streets to the west of the square you’ll
rants, mingle, show off and decide the future of the country. find yourself in the Athenian version of a China town, where
and stop for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés.
All the expensive fashion boutiques are based here, and the
Walk along pedestrianised Dionisiou Areopagitou street,
climb the Acropolis hill and enjoy the pride of western
nightlife is designed to please the above-mentioned crowds, Makrigianni other predominant nationalities are Pakistanis and Africans.
A few surviving neoclassical buildings come as a welcome
civilisation. Once you’re done with the sacred rock head as well as visitors who come here from the rest of Athens to E7,E8 Bordered by the Acropolis, Philopappou hill, contrast to the concrete of the square, the looks of which
to the new Acropolis Museum before you stop for get a taste of the high life. Beach attire, large groups of lads Syngrou Ave. MAcropolis.A district overwhelmed by most Athenians hated as soon as it was reconstructed a
a late lunch-Greek style somewhere around Thissio and the matching attitude should be avoided, if you wish to sixties blocks of flats (like most of Athens of course) with few years ago.
station. Afternoon is time to visit Kerameikos with its pass through the strict ‘face control’ of the bouncers and some forgotten neoclassical treasures amongst them,
ancient cemetery, the Ancient Agora and the bustling spend a night among Athens’ ‘beautiful people’. Makrigianni hasn’t so far had very much to offer the visitor
and quaint Monastiraki Flea Market. Have an aperitif at except its proximity to the ancient monuments and some
tourist shops and restaurants. To be sure, this was the case
nearby Psirri district and round off the evening with a late
dinner accompanied by live Greek music, or head to Gazi Gazi until the New Acropolis Museum, the pride and joy of the
where you can combine dinner with late drinks. A4 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Konstantinoupoleos capital, finally opened its doors and thereafter transformed
Streets. M Kerameikos. the district into one of the foremost attractions for visitors
Day Two: The top nightlife hot spot of the capital, characterised by the and Athenians alike.
Begin the day at the top end of Ploutarchou Street in old factory that used to produce gas for lighting the streets
Kolonaki, from where you will board the scenic funicular and houses of the city many decades ago. Fortunately, the
(runs every half hour €6) or walk the lovely pine-lined Municipality of Athens preserved the old factory building Commercial triangle (Historic Centre)
pedestrianised path up Lycabettus hill (about 300m). and transformed it into the ‘Technopolis’ cultural centre
where concerts, exhibitions and festivals take place. With E4,E5,F4,F5 Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou
Take in the breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the
the completion of Kerameikos metro station in 2007, the St. MMonastiraki, Syntagma, Panepistimio.
panorama of Athens and the Saronic Gulf sprawled
at your feet. Seize the opportunity to visit the historic area took off and it is now a top choice for entertainment A complex of narrow streets lined with shops selling every-
white-washed church of Saint George crowning the hill among young Athenians. A good number of gay bars and thing you can imagine, this is the traditional shopping heart
before taking the funicular back down. Make your way clubs have given the homosexual community of Athens a of the city. It used to be dead quiet in the evenings, but
to Panepistimio station and board the metro to Victoria, night-time destination, although one cannot describe Gazi when neighbouring Psirri started becoming saturated with
from where you will cross to the National Archaeologi- as a gay district. nightspots of all kinds, entertainment entrepreneurs took the
cal Museum. Allow at least two hours for your visit, be- opportunity to cross Athinas street and liven up this historic
part of the capital. The establishments in this area of town
fore stopping for a light lunch at the Museum restaurant
or at one of the numerous Bohemian establishments
Exarchia tend to maintain a certain individuality and character and
F2,G2,H2 Bordered by: Asklipiou, Akadimias, Patision target more selective audiences.
lining Exarchia Square. Board the metro to Syntagma
(October 28th) Streets. MOmonia.
station, where you will change to the Tram that will take
Neighbouring Kolonaki but at the exact opposite end of
you down to Athens’ southern coastal suburbs. Enjoy
your leisurely ride, taking in the golden sea views along the spectrum, this is the traditional alternative corner of Metaxourgio
the way. Get off at ‘Parko Flisvou’ stop in Paleo Faliro Athens inhabited by old Athenians and frequented by young B3,C3 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Achilleos Streets.
and walk along the seaside palm-lined esplanade, stop- Bohemian intellectuals, leftists, students, rockers and an- MKerameikos.
ping off for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés (we archists. The nightlife here is excellent, and as you’d expect This is the latest up and coming area of the capital, with
recommend a freddocinno!). Enjoy lounging at the beach a lot more relaxed and laid back. Nobody cares about what a new bar, restaurant or art venue appearing every few
before taking the Tram back to downtown Athens and you wear or who you are. The old days’ frequent riots are days. Like many other European cities, Athens is gradu-
rounding the day off with dinner somewhere around now rare (with the exeption of December 2008) but there is ally rediscovering its neglected and forsaken districts of
Monastiraki Station with its numerous lively live-music always a refreshing revolutionary feeling to make restless ill repute and transforming them into night-time hot spots.
establishments or, if posh dining is more up your street, minds feel at home. The shoddy brothels still operate here around the clock,
head to Kolonaki. but, at night, the fashionable crowds of the capital reclaim
athens.inyourpocket.com the neighbourhood.
The colourful harbour of Symi No tourist development on the island Armenistis The harbour of Anafi
Probably the poshest and most expensive in this group The smallest of the Ionian islands (the group west Ikaria is an island like no other. The concept of time You must be determined to have a quiet holiday on a
of ten and a favourite among yachters and international of the mainland) is a giant olive grove surrounded by here is different from the rest of the world and it is worth beautiful isolated island if you embark on the little odys-
jet-setters, Symi is a small island near the Turkish coast. clear blue waters. It attracts quality tourism in smaller visiting it if only to experience a lifestyle long gone in the sey necessary to reach Anafi. Although just a few miles
Yalos, with its colourful Neoclassical houses, is the is- numbers compared to its neighbours but during August western world. The island is dead until midday, shops away from Santorini, all high speed ferries end their
land’s harbour while Ano Symi, five hundred stone stairs it is impossible to find accommodation. There are many open in the evening and stay open until the early morn- journey there and your only option is the old slow and un-
up, is the main town built around an old fortress. There pebbly beaches on the island -mainly on the eastern ing hours. It is not uncommon for people to walk into a reliable ferries that can take up to 18 hours from Piraeus
are a number of excellent beaches on the island, and coast- and you can get to the most isolated ones by hiring shop, pick up what they need, leave the corresponding (alternatively take the fast ferry or fly to Santorini and
most are reachable only on boats departing from the a small motor boat for the day (no licence necessary). money and go, simply because the shopkeeper is not then hope for a local boat on that day). You’ll be rewarded
harbour frequently. The guest house of the monastery The western part of the island is rocky with caves. Gaios there. Ikaria is also famous for its ‘Panigiria’, huge however as you’ll have one of the most tranquil holidays
of Archangel Michael Panormitis is a good alternative is the main village and harbour and Lakka is a smaller village parties in honour of the patron Saint where of your life. Hora is as usual, bright white and built on top
to stay if you arrive during the peak season when ac- picturesque village with nice little streets and traditional everyone eats drinks and dances the night away in the of a mountain with a breathtaking view of the Aegean
commodation can be an issue. Best way to get to Symi houses. For even more tranquility and isolation visit the village square. Having said all the above it is not surpris- while the island’s 5-6 beaches (the best known of them
is on a sailing boat but for the less lucky of you there are island’s tiny satelite Antipaxoi. A local ferry connects ing that with such a relaxed lifestyle people here have is Roukounas), are top class. You and your companion
frequent boat connections from Rhodes. Paxoi with Corfu and the rest of the Ionian islands. one of the highest life expectancies in the world. will have a few hundred square metres of fine sand all to
yourselves - even if you come in mid-August.
7. Samothraki 8. Elafonisos
Louise Bourgeois/Sarah Lucas Eretria: Insights into an Ancient City Carte Blanche Woman as Muse 1900-1950
The suite occupies the hotel’s entire ninth floor and boasts Grand Resort Lagonissi 40th km Athens-Sounion
Hotel Listings Policy of a terrace with a private swimming pool, a jacuzzi and a Av, tel. (+30) 22910 7600, fax (+30) 22910 24534,
wonderful Parthenon view which is included in many of those grandresort@grandresort, www.lagonissiresort.gr. This
Athens offers its visitors a comprehensive range of ac- international lists compiled for the rich and privileged of this resort is sprawled across a peninsula jutting into the sea,
commodation, as you‘d expect from a city of its size. world. Tudor Hall, the 7th floor French restaurant, remains in the calm area of Lagonissi, about one hour from the city
The Olympic Games of 2004 gave its hotel industry a a prominent member of the Athenian dining elite. Q 102 centre. Better to opt for a villa or bungalow, but be warned:
radical overhaul, many new hotels were built and most rooms, Singles/Doubles: €180-400, Suites: €500-10,000. prices are sky high, especially for the more exclusive sea
existing ones underwent complete renovation. PTJHARUFGBKDCW hhhhh view villas (with private swimming pool and fitness centre, no
Although accommodation is ample, Athens‘ hotels are less). There is a large selection of restaurants, bars, sports
not cheap and hoteliers seem to prefer lower occupancy Club Hotel Casino Loutraki Poseidonos 48, Loutraki, and water sports on offer, plus an elegant spa with an array
rates at higher prices. tel. (+30) 27440 60300, fax (+30) 27440 60306, Res- of enticing treatments. It provides a fully-equipped business
In Your Pocket will not stop crying out that Athens is in ervations@clubhotelloutraki.gr, www.clubhotelloutraki. centre, as well as translation and secretarial services. Why
desperate need of reasonably priced accommodation gr. An ultra luxurious resort less than an hour away from not prepare for that meeting while basking under the sun on
at all levels and our list of recommendations is primarily Athens. Everything you could desire for a dream stay, away its sandy private beach? Or, then again, why not just lounge
based on the premise of the fairness of prices charged from the hustle and bustle of the city centre: Designer fur- by the pool or enjoy the uninterrupted sea views from your
for the services being offered. niture, a private beach, large swimming pools and gardens, luxurious villa, and forget about all meetings whatsoever?
an excellent invigorating Wellness Centre and, last but not As long as you can afford to stay here, that is. Q 321
least: the largest casino in Greece worth a visit even if you rooms. Singles/Doubles: €500-800, Suites: €1000-€5000.
stay in the city. There are regular shuttle bus connections PTHARUFLBKDCW hhhhh
Cream of the Crop from the centre of Athens. With just €15 you’ll get transport,
entrance fee, free drinks and lunch as well as the opportunity
Astir Palace Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, tel. (+30) 210 to spend a few hours of fun and style in a real world class Over €180
8902000, fax (+30) 210 8962582, reservation@astir. casino. Even if you are not the gambling type, the experience Electra Palace F6, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, MSyntag-
gr, www.astir-palace.com. Located in the coastal suburb is worth a visit and you still stand a chance of winning one of ma, tel. (+30) 210 3370000, fax (+30) 210 3241875,
of Vouliagmeni, less than an hour from the city centre, Astir the free regular instant cash lottery draws (€1000 & €2000) salesepath@electrahotels.gr, www.electra-hotels.com.
Palace is for those who wish to spend their holidays in an Transport info & reservations: 210 5234188 & 210 5234144 All time classic luxury in the heart of Plaka. You’ll certainly
elegant and exclusive environment, being pampered by the Q 255 rooms, Singles: €200-350, Doubles: €245-370. feel you’re worth a bob or two once you pass the front door.
sea. This luxurious resort, sheltered among shady pine-tree POTHARUFLEBKDCW hhhhh No hi-tech extravagances in the standard rooms and small
groves, with its rock-hewn landscape, idyllic sea views and bathrooms are marked down as a negative, but you can
private beaches, offers soothing serenity for those wanting Grande Bretagne G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, always book a suite with living room, LCD TV and balcony
to escape the madding crowd. In general, its amenities are tel. (+30) 210 333000/(+30) 210 3228034, info@ with a startling view of Plaka. The spectacular indoor pool
good, including a spa, fitness centre, hair and beauty salon, grandebretagne.gr, www.grandebretagne.gr. This his- and fitness centre will certainly make up for potential bad
mini soccer terrains, tennis courts and water sports, as well toric hotel occupies probably the most expensive piece of weather and keep you in shape. Q 154 rooms. Singles:
as a good choice of restaurants and bars. And for those VIPs commercial property in the country. Pure luxury, grandeur and €150-200,Doubles: €160-250, Superior rooms: €295-450.
among you, we have to mention that there’s a helipad and splendour, consistently place GB in every kind of ‘top hotels PTJHAFLGBKDXCW hhhhh
private helicopter service, no less, as well as a limousine of the world’ list. Most impressive though, is the list of its Saint George Lycabettus I4, Kleomenous 2, tel.
transfer service. Couples will love its romantic sunsets and famous guests, more or less all the important people who Ledra Marriott Syngrou 115, tel. (+30) 210 930 00 00, (+30) 210 7290711-19, info@sglycabettus.gr, www.
lovely rejuvenating surroundings while, with its detached have visited Athens since the hotel was built back in 1874: fax (+30) 210 935 86 03, athensmarriott.com. 50 Cent sglycabettus.gr. Situated on the slopes of Lycabettus hill,
bungalows, it also makes a good choice for those bringing Winston Churchill, Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis and...Naomi and rock star Tina Turner stayed in the presidential suite of this is probably the only hotel with such a breathtaking view
their family entourage. Q 199 rooms. Singles: €150-200, Campbell, as well as countless kings, queens and heads of this famous luxury hotel. The colonial style furniture adds a of the city and coast. The rooms are pretty small but certainly
Doubles: €200-300, Suites: €700-1000. PTHARU� state have in the past slipped between its crisp sheets. certain character to the rooms, which are spacious with huge appreciated by those who enjoy compact spaces. In terms
FLKDCW hhhhh The hotel has housed governments and occupying forces single beds. City breakers and businessmen alike love Ledra of decoration, each floor has its own theme. To that extent,
during turbulent times and from its balconies, the foreign Marriott. The executive lounge gives you the impression Byzantine paintings are to be found on the entire 4th floor.
Athens Hilton K5, Vas. Sofias 46, MEvangelismos, tel. press has watched and reported on every important event you’re staying in a Tokyo skyscraper hotel and you can’t help “Toni’s bar” covers all major sports events and if that is not
(+30) 210 7281000, fax (+30) 210 7281111, reserva- of modern Greek history. Needless to describe its amenities, but feel that Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson will walk in quite your style, opt for classy bar-restaurant “Frame”. If you
tions.athens@hiltoncom, www.hiltonathens.gr. Need we if you can afford the bill you can find out for yourself. What we any minute to join you for a nightcap. The hotel’s Polynesian can spare the extra cash, book an evening in the “Princess
mention that panache and elegance are synonymous with the need to point out is its Spa, which is definitely worth one of restaurant, Kona Kai, has ranked among the capital’s top Marie Christine” suite. The more expensive rate is a small
word Hilton? Built in 1963, it wouldn’t be an overstatement your Athens days, and will only set you back a few hundred dining spots for the last quarter of a century. Q 314 rooms. price to pay to be treated like royalty. Q 154 rooms. Singles/
to say that governments have risen and fallen in this build- euros… Q 321 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €250-400, Suites: Singles/Doubles: €149-269, Junior suites: from €349, Suites: Doubles: €150-200, Deluxe Acropolis view: €240-500.
ing. Recently, it underwent a total refurbishment adopting a €500-€5000. PTJHAR6UFGBKDXCW from €850. PTJHARUFLEGBKDCW PTJHARUFLBKDW hhhhh
minimal style without abandoning its true Hilton character. hhhhh hhhhh
Heads of state and top celebrities love the presidential suite Semiramis Charilaou Trikoupi 48, Kifisia, tel. (+30) 210
overlooking the city. Any type of conference or meeting can O&B Boutique C4, Leokoriou 7, Psirri, MThissio, tel. 6284400, fax (+30) 210 6284449, info@semiramisa-
be held here, hosting from 10 to 1200 people. An immense
fitness centre, a beauty salon, barber’s shop, cigar store, Symbol key (+30) 210 3312950, fax (+30) 210 3312942, reserve@
oandbhotel.com, www.oandbhotel.com. One of the city’s
thens.com, www.semiramisathens.com. If you are willing
to exchange central location for a stay in a truly exceptional
newsagent and jewelry store all at your service. And if you favourite small hotels has just doubled in size, remaining how- hotel and pop design is your cup of tea, then look no further
feel you’re carrying the weight of the world on your shoulders, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted ever small enough for the personalised service and top hospi- than Semiramis. Located in the leafy and posh northern
you can wind down in the silent room, a place of complete tality its owners take pride in offering their guests. The subtle suburb of Kifisia 15 km from the centre of the city, owned by
relaxation. Q 524 rooms. Singles: €160-250, Doubles: E Live music S Take away luxury, minimal decoration and calm atmosphere O&B has an art collector and designed by Karim Rashid no less, this
€180-400. PTJHAR6UFLBKDCW been known for, have been carefully preserved and the guests hotel is a temple of modern living. An outright riot of colours
hhhhh T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled now have a large choice of accommodation ranging from a and shapes complemented by top class facilities will tempt
standard double up to the ‘Acropolis Grand Suite’. Internet is you to spend your entire holiday inside the hotel! Q 51 rooms.
Classical King George Palace G5, Vasileos Georgiou G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking of course free-of-charge. Q 22 rooms, Doubles: €190-210, Singles / Doubles: €180-300, Bungallows / Suite: €350-600.
3, Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210/ Suites: €300-550. PTJALGKW hhhh PTHARFLBKDCW hhhhh
(+30) reserv.210 3443590, fax (+30) 210 3250504, O Casino M Nearest station
kgpalace@classicalhotels.com, www.classicalhotels.
com. A member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ and R Internet 6 Animal friendly
one of the distinguished Syntagma Sq trio. If you have a few Post your own hotel review at:
thousand euros to spare, go for the 350 sqm Royal Penthouse D Sauna C Swimming pool athens.inyourpocket.com
Suite and impress your companion beyond any expectation.
Philippos E8, Mitseon 3, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) Hostels Restaurant Listings Policy
210 9223611-4, fax (+30) 210 9223615, philippos@ Athens Backpackers F7, Makri 12, MAcropolis, tel.
herodion.gr, www.philipposhotel.gr. A sister hotel of (+30) 210 9224044, info@backpackers.gr, www.back-
Herodion, this one caters for more budget conscious travelers. packers.gr. With quotes such as “this is not a prison cell, it’s Many Athenian restaurants sell a number of things like
Acceptable, excellently located accommodation, on a quiet a host-cell”, “pay in advance and if you’re not happy you can ob- décor, location, view, exclusivity and attitude, forgetting
street very close to the Acropolis and Plaka. Rooms are basic, tain a refund”, this hostel is a never-to-be-forgotten experience. to pay adequate attention to their primary business:
but if you are not extremely fussy and you’re not planning to 18-30 curious Americans adore this fully non-smoking, English food.
spend all your time in the hotel (why should you?), this is very speaking joint, but if you hang out here long enough you’ll get Some others concentrate on food but make their custom-
good value for your money accommodation. Q 50 rooms. to meet people from all around the world. You can always chill ers pay through the nose for the privilege.
Singles:/Doubles €80-100. PTJARGW hhh out for free on the settees if you arrive in the middle of the night In Your Pocket staff untertake the strenuous task of
and your booking is for the next morning. A heavy duty oven selecting, among hundreds of establishments, those
Budget with all necessary food preparation accessories awaits the
cooking types. If it’s luxury you’re after, look elsewhere. What
that truly respect the custom of their visitors and take
their business seriously, whether they are humble cheap
Cecil E4, Athinas 39, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 you’ll get here is a clean room for a good night’s sleep and great souvlaki joints or sophisticated expensive Michelin-
3217079,, fax (+30) 210 3219606, info@cecil.gr, opportunities to meet free style travelers like yourself. Look starred restaurants.
www.cecil.gr. This pretty neoclassical building was once out on the notice board for funny announcements like, “Fabian, Your experiences are always appreciated. Please post
a rather high-class establishment, thanks to its French style call your mother” and prepare for cool parties on the ground your own review on our website or email us at: athens@
rooms and its belle époque feel. That’s probably why many floor. Test your ‘surviving-on-a-tight-budget’ skills by trying out inyourpocket.com
Greek film scenes set in France are shot here instead of on Ed’s “3 days in Athens for 30 euros” plan. Q Dorms: €18-25,
site: it’s a lot cheaper! You are guaranteed to experience Doubles: €40-50. PJARGW
gangster movie flashbacks thanks to a historic early 20th
century elevator (still operational). All in all, this is definitely a American
AthenStyle D5, Agias Theklas 10, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
distinctive choice. Q 40 rooms. Singles: €50-80, Doubles: Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3225010, info@athenstyle.com, Hard Rock Café F6, Filellinon 18, MSyntagma, tel.
€70-100. PTJAGW hhh www.athenstyle.com. If you are the type who prefers to (+30) 210 3252758, www.hardrock.com/athens.
stay close to nightlife this new hostel is a perfect choice as There are no surprises with Hard Rocks, you know that.
Metropolis F5, Mitropoleos 46, MSyntagma, tel. it is located right in Psirri. An old recently converted building It’s all guitars and jackets and motorbikes hanging from the
(+30) 210 3217871, fax (+30) 210 3217469, info@ with four and six bed dorms sharing a bathroom each and, walls, burgers, margueritas and rock n’roll! One thing that
hotelmetropolis.gr, www.hotelmetropolis.gr. Anyone if you prefer more privacy (at a higher price) you can opt for certainly distinguishes this one, is the very Athenian three-
interested in some good old hanky panky? This is the place for one of the double rooms or even the studio flats. There is a storey refurbished neoclassical building, a few steps from the
you. This is also a good choice for backpackers and travelers bar, free internet and a rooftop bar with a close up view of historic Plaka district. Go ahead, buy this Athens T-shirt that
who prefer to spend their money on anything other than a the Acropolis and Plaka. Q Dorms: €25, Doubles, studios: is missing from your collection and enjoy a true Hard Rock
hotel. The rooms are less than basic but then again, you will € 60-150. PJAB evening. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA
get to use the smallest bathroom ever. So why stay in this
22-room lodge? Because you’ll get the feel of what life is like in Fivos E4, Athinas 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 Jackson Hall H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210
an original Bauhaus structure. Q 22 rooms. Singles: €40-70, 3226657, www.hotelfivos.gr. Fivos is another non-smoking 3616098, info@jacksonhall.gr, www.jacksonhall.gr.
Doubles: € 40-80, Triples: €60-100. PJR6 hh establishment in this tobacco-fanatic capital. It isn’t fancy and This is a classic hotspot for chic Athenians of all ages, the
luxurious but it’s clean, and is favoured by young city travelers place to see and to be seen in classy upmarket Kolonaki.
Pan F5, Mitropoleos 11,, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 eager to meet new friends. According to the Scottish reception- Serves tasty cocktails and an interesting assortment of
3237816, fax (+30) 210 3237819, reservations@pan- ist, who looks like he’s just walked off the set of a gangster film, American-style food, though a tad on the expensive side (it
hotel.gr, www.panhotel.gr. Named after ancient god Pan, “this is a place for travelers. The people who work here are must, after all, live up to its eclectic clientele). Its crammed
this family business is a respectable choice. The Internet also travelers stopping over, making it easier to understand tables lining the pavement, with a unique uninterrupted view
is free of charge, the rooms are not bad for the price and a guest’s needs”, which means that they may have a job for to the pedestrian path/fashion catwalk, are a distinctively
it is very well positioned, only a two-minute walk from the you, if you fancy staying in Athens a little longer. Travel light or Athenian landmark, even in winter. Service is very profes-
Monastiraki area. Q 33 rooms. Singles: €60-80, Doubles: choose a room on the first floor, as the word “lift” is unknown sional. If you are looking for a stylish night out in town, you
€70-100. PTJAGW hhh here. Q Dorms: €20, Singles: €30 Doubles: €40, Triples: should consider checking this out. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
€50, Quads: €60. PJARGB €€€. PJAB
Apartments/Studios Arabic
Habiba Astypaleas & Patission 224, tel. (+30) 210
Athens Studios E8, Veikou 3A, MAcropolis, tel. EP16 D4, Epikourou 16, MThissio, tel. 6976 484135, 8673722. If you want to go off the beaten-track, brave the
210 9235811, info@athensstudios.gr, www.athens- info@boutiqueathens.com, www.EP16.com. Luxury outer limits of the city centre and head towards Patissia. On
studios.gr. This is one of our top low budget favourites. apartment accommodation is scarce in Athens, as is rea- the corner of Patission and Astypaleias, Habiba serves the
You’ll be just a couple of steps away from the New Acropolis sonably priced accommodation. Brand new entry EP16 best falafels and humus in the city, homemade on a daily basis
Museum and the Acropolis itself. You’ll get to stay in an hits both birds with one stone and what’s more: it brings
apartment that pretty much looks like home. Some of the
delights to look forward to are flat screens, comfy sofas
a fresh metropolitan air in downtown Athens. Don’t think
of chandeliers and silver cutlery, the 4 brand new apart-
Price Guide
and a free ADSL connection. Elspeth Geronimos, the lady ments housed in a refurbished 30s building are luxurious
in charge, wants to create an English speaking corner in the contemporary sense of the word: designer furniture,
in the heart of Athens and her studios form part of this pleasant homey but minimal environment, a location right Prices are based on a good meal with house wine
plan. A lunch corner and a laundromat make up the other in the arty heart of the city and every modern amenity you (where not available, we assume that a bottle
pieces of the puzzle. By the way, don’t bother dropping off may ever need for a comfortable stay. This is definitely the of decent but reasonably-priced wine is shared
your dog at the kennels. Dogs are more than welcome! next Athenian super-hit for the knowledgeable and lucky few between two people).
Make sure you don’t miss out on the opportunity to get a (reserve well in advance). Minimum stay 3 days. Q €110 €: Less than €15 per person
glimpse of the “Athens by night” walking tour, organised by for the larger apartments and €90 for the smaller ones.
Athens Studios. That’s the right time of day to appreciate Negotiable for long term stay.A complimentary bottle of €€: €15 - €30 per person
the city’s delights, with people who know where to take champagne awaits those who mention In Your Pocket on €€€: €30 - €45 per person
you. Q Singles: €22-26, Doubles: €35-50, Triples: €96. booking!. PTJA6GBW €€€€: More than €45 per person
PTJAR6GW
Kanella A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70 & Efmolpidon , Gazi, Tirbouson A3, Konstantinoupoleos 104, Metaxourgio,
Greek Modern MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3476320. One of the great MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410107. A relatively new
Aleria B3, Megalou Alexandrou 57, Metaxourgio, success stories of Gazi and the neo-taverna movement. A entry, this modern Greek restaurant is run by a young man
MMetaxourgio, tel. (+30) 210 5222633. Great setting combination of a Greek mum’s type of cooking, low prices and Giannis and his parents and offers delicious traditional Greek
that manages to successfully combine pop, belle époque a fashionable clientele, packs this restaurant and its pavement food with a creative touch. The highlight of the dining hall (a
and urban funky elements with the romantic simplicity of a tables every single day and night. Cold lentil salad, and lemon converted workshop) is an impressive light pendant made
beautiful terrace, the food here is equally impressive. The lamb are our favourites while the house wine is an acceptable with wine bottles. If you are a train spotter, window tables
cuisine on offer ranges from traditional Greek dishes to fusion choice if you want to keep your bill at really low levels. QOpen offer an undisturbed view of the rail tracks outside. QOpen
Mediterranean cuisine, prepared with simple ingredients in 14:00 - 03:00. €€. PTJB 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PTA
ingenious combinations, with delightful results. QOpen
21:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA Kuzina C5, Adrianou 9, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30) 210 Yantes G2, Valtetsiou 44, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel.
3240133. Stylish modern taverna serving quality cooking that (+30) 210 3301369. An upmarket (for the neighbourhood of
Athiri B4, Plateon 15, Kerameikos, MThissio, tel. has rightfully earned its place among the most famous fusion Exarchia) restaurant serving modern Greek cuisine prepared
(+30) 210 3462983, athirirestaurant@gmail.com, cuisine restaurants. The well known chef Aris Tsanaklides uses with almost exclusively organic ingredients. The clientele
www.athirirestaurant.gr. Dine in style in this excellent his experience and imagination and combines successfully consists mostly of young freestylers and intellectuals and the
Greek restaurant named after an Aegean grape variety. Here traditional, Mediterranean ingredients in an innovative way atmosphere is laid back and casual. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00.
you will enjoy traditional Greek dishes like stifado and beef based on the international gastronomic trends. Try out some €€. PTJA
stew served with hand made pasta, the way tourists usually of his creations such as dumplings filled with a feta cheese
don’t. All the ingredients used are fresh, the atmosphere in mousse and served with pomegranate syrup or orzo risotto
the neo-classical building is civilised but not stiff and the ser- style with lobster that will impress even the most demanding Greek Traditional
vice professional yet friendly. A restaurant worth one of your fans of gastronomy. Continue your evening with drinks at
less casual (but not expensive) Athenian evenings. QOpen Tarazza roof bar, with a geat Acropolis view. QOpen 13:00 - Damigos (Bakaliarakia) F6, Kidathineon 41, Plaka,
20:00 - 01:30. €€€. TJALB 02:00. €€. PJAB MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3225084. Right in the heart
of touristy Plaka, this basement taverna serves ‘bakaliarakia’
Barbara’s Food Company G2, Emm. Benaki 63-65, ManiMani E8, Falirou 10, Makrigianni, MAcropolis, tel. (fried cod in batter served with ‘skordalia’- the deadly garlic
Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 3805004. If you’re (+30) 210 9218180. Mani is the rocky area in the south of sauce) the same way it has done throughout the twentieth
looking for a bit of soul in your food, look no further than the Peloponnese, and many of its local dishes are served in century. Dining here makes one feel like an extra in an old
Barbara’s Food Company. Very close to the archaelogical this superb modern restaurant, housed in the first floor of a black and white film and rightly so…the place has provided
museum, serving up what they like to call ‘food for real people’, neoclassical building a few steps away from the new Acropolis the setting for many Greek films of the sixties. QOpen
this is one restaurant that never compromises on quality. With museum. If you are looking for real, non -touristy Greek food at 14:00 - 12:00. €€. PJN
modern interpretations of classic Greek staples and a few surprisingly low prices, this is your first choice. We love dining
more experimental dishes thrown in, the warm atmosphere here and we cannot recommend it enough. QOpen 13:00 - Doris E4, Praxitelous 30, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210
that crosses service and self-service makes this one of the 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. PTJA 3232671. A daytime-only restaurant, catering to a clientele
nicest places to eat in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun of local business people and shoppers. Do not be deterred
12:00 - 01:00. €. PTJA Mespilea A4, Persefonis 59, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. by the colour of the walls (who on earth thought of painting a
(+30) 210 3460972. With a distinct ‘homey’ feeling, this new
Fasoli G2, Emmanuel Benaki 45, Exarchia, MOmonia, arrival on the Athenian restaurant scene has been welcomed traditional, old -fashioned Greek restaurant pink?) the food
Panepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3300010. This is a low-bud- by gourmets who have come to appreciate its simple traditional here is excellent. You can choose from an extensive menu
get restaurant that nonetheless will impress your companion and fusion recipes with their fresh ingredients, great taste and (displayed every day on a blackboard, only in Greek) that could
as long as she doesn’t see the bill. Students love this place refreshing simplicity. Its dishes include a selection of soups, in its own right be proclaimed a cook book on Greek cuisine.
as it gives them the opportunity to eat a decent meal in an pies, ‘meze’, fish and succulent meats traditionally slow-cooked Prices are dead cheap and, if you prefer to opt for sweets,
uplifting environment, without spending a fortune. The place in earthenware dishes. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a styl- ‘loukoumades’ (Greek-style doughnuts topped with honey)
is bright, with small glittering lights inside and outside. We ish taverna, with a tranquil flow of background music, perfect are the house specialty. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
found the staff was in a hurry to serve us but nonetheless to relax and savour the tasty food. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sun. €€. PTJNS
friendly and fun to talk to. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PJ
Sun. Closed Aug 9-23 €€. PJAB Ilias C5,B5, Thessalonikis 7 & Eptahalkou 5, MThissio,
Milos K5, Hilton hotel, Vasilisis Sofias 46, MEvangelis- tel. (+30) 210 34 22 407/(+30) 210 345 80 52. The
Ioannis (Royal Olympic Hotel) F8, Athanasiou Diakou mos, tel. (+30) 210 7244400. Although you’ll find it at the hands-on consumption of copious amounts of barbecued
28-34, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400. Famous Hilton hotel, this is a fine stand-alone Athenian restaurant. The lamb chops constitutes a time-honoured ritual that has
chef Kostas Tsigas is in charge of this new gourmet restaurant strong point of Milos is its use of top-quality local produce, survived the refinement of the modern Athenian. In these
in the roof garden of Royal Olympic Hotel. Traditional forgotten brought in from around the country, including fresh fish from the sister traditional Greek taverns you will enjoy the best lamb
Greek recipes prepared with the freshest ingredients and a Aegean Sea, which is shipped in on a daily basis. The ambience chops in town, and an excellent location on a quiet pedes-
modern twist and a breathtaking view of most city landmarks is ultra modern and the clients are mainly businessmen and tianised street. Beat the locals by arriving before 21:00,
(you can almost touch the Temple of Olympian Zeus) make celebrities, among others. Very nice thought to offer a €20 or call for a reservation as both places are packed every
this restaurant well worth of one of your less casual Athenian lunch menu of the same quality as dinner but watch out: wine evening. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
nights. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PTJAB is not included and it is not cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. Mon. €€. TJN
€€€€. PJA
Kallisti Gefsis I2, Asklipiou 137, tel. (+30) 210 Kappari A8, Dorieon 36, Petralona, tel. 210 3450288.
6453179, www.kallisti-restaurant.gr. Sweet and feminine Rififi G2, Emmanuel Benaki & Valtetsiou, Exarchia, tel. An old house, salvaged from demolition, and its front yard
like its name, which means “most beautiful”, with stylised (+30) 210 3300237. Modern restaurant huddling in a narrow have become a traditional Greek tavern that preserves a nos-
photographs of flowers adorning its walls and impeccable art street crammed with interesting culinary choices ideal for a talgic old Athenian atmosphere. The emphasis of the menu
de la table, Kallisti Gefsis is a restaurant that has managed to quiet dinner in style. The bright decoration brings to mind sum- is on grilled meat but there are other typical Greek dishes on
make its presence felt on the Athenian gourmet scene both mers on the Greek islands. To that extent, the food is quite light offer and the quality and taste of almost everything we tried
for its innovations, as well as for its refined and high quality and mostly represents Aegean cooking. You may need to book was exeptional. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB
food. Under its new management and the two female chefs, ahead, since it is usually filled with arty types. The house wine
flavours here are intense and memorable. A good choice for is an acceptable and economic solution, especially if you plan
savouring tantalisingly flavoursome Greek cuisine prepared to drink much. Anything you decide to eat will be a success but
with creativity and respect for quality. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PJA
do make sure you order the burgers. They’re simply delicious.
QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJA
inyourpocket.com
Palia Taverna tou Psara E6, Erechtheos 16, Plaka, wine list to choose from and whatever you order will be
Fine Dining MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3218733. Plaka is full of more than appetizing. Make sure you try the ‘keftedakia tis
tourist traps but many expats swear by this taverna’s name. giagias’ (grandma’s meatballs), ‘mastelo’ cheese, anything
Matsuhisa (Nobu) Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos It has been operating for more than a century in an old, now that ends in mastic, the chicken ribs with roast potatoes
40,Vouliagmeni, tel. 210 8960510. No need to restored building not very easy to find in the labyrinth of small and, last but not least, any pie. The salad with ‘anthotiro’ (a
travel to Beverly Hills and Aspen (or indeed Malibu, New streets. The food is basically fish and the kind of standard type of creamy soft cheese) is a good choice too. QOpen
York, Milan and of course Tokio) anymore, to savour Mr Greek more appreciated by foreigners. There is live music 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. PJAB
Matsuhisa’s heavenly creations. His newest restaurant and the prices are slightly high but it is probably your best
choice if you die to dine in Plaka. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
opened its doors in Athens recently, and became im-
mediately the gastronomic talk of the town. If you can €€€. PTJAIE Italian
appreciate the Nobu experience of creative Japanese Il postino Skoufa 64 & Griveon 3, Kolonaki, MPanepis-
cuisine at its best combined with a superb seaside Rozalia G2, Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia, MOmonia, tel. timio, tel. (+30) 210 3641414. This Italian-owned osteria
location and impeccable service, you won’t mind the bill, (+30) 210 3821685. Rozalia is a garden taverna that has serves fresh, simple, well cooked Italian food that you can
probably the highest you’ll pay in Greece (a ‘dégustation’ been around for almost three decades and is considered watch being prepared in its open kitchen. Postcards on the
menu costs €98 without wine). QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu an institution in simple original Greek cooking among its walls and flowery windows give the place a pleasant Ital-
19:30 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30. regulars that include students, artists and laid back types ian feel, while outside tables will make you feel like you’re
Closed Mon. €€€€. PAUG who frequent the Exarchia neighbourhood.You’ll be tempted dining in a suburb of Rome. Its position is very convenient
to pick most of the fifteen starters that will arrive as soon should you wish to continue your evening in the nearby
Spondi I8, Pyrronos 5, Pangrati, tel. 210 7520658, as you take your seat but don’t get carried away, the main bars in this small but lively nightlife neighbourhood on the
www.spondi.gr. With two Michelin stars and a member- dishes, grilled meats and fresh fish look and taste equally borders Kolonaki and Exarhia. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€.
ship of Rélais & Châteaux, it is considered by many as good. Accompany with organic wine from the barrel and PTJAB
the best restaurant in Athens. Its French chef creates don’t worry about the cost, Rozalia is a crisis-friendly eatery.
haute cuisine dishes with imaginative flair, catering for QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. TJAB La Pasteria Tsakalof 18, Kolonaki, H4, tel 210
people with exquisitely refined taste buds. The wine list 3632032, B. Katraki 6, Glyfada, tel. 210 8945085,
is as comprehensive as you’d expect in a world class Taverna tou Psirri D4, Eschylou 12, Psirri, MMona- Kasaveti 9, Kifisia, tel. 210 8085607, Ag. Alexandrou
restaurant like this and prices reflect the gastronomic stiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3214923. As you can probably 7, Palaio Faliro, tel. 210 9858880, K.Palaiologou 15,
experience. But if you choose to dine at Spondi we don’t guess from our list of recommendations, we are huge fans Nea Smyrni, tel. 210 9319146, 28 October Sq, Peris-
suppose that cost is an issue… QOpen 20:00 - 00:00. of original Greek tavernas serving real Greek food with no teri, tel 210 5775133, Ag Ioannou 19, Agia Paraskevi,
€€€€. PJAB frills and attitude attached. This is definitely one of those tel. 210 6019975, M. Geroulanou 58, Argyroupoli, tel.
places that has survived for decades in an area full of frills 210 9945722, Pentelis 73, Halandri, tel. 210 6854210,
Tudor Hall G5, Georgiou A, Syntagma Sq, MSyntag- and attitude and poor excuses for Greek restaurants. They Thivon 228, Rentis, tel. 210 4922960, Andrea Papan-
ma, tel. (+30) 210 3222210. Housed on the 7th floor do fish and they do meat and day specials and everything is dreou 35 Marousi, The Mall, tel. 210 6198230,Achar-
of the luxurious King George Hotel, right on Syntagma simply excellent. The wine is decent and comes from a barrel, non 309, Kato Patisia, tel. 210 2236295, Poseidonos
square, this is a restaurant with an aristocratic feel for the atmosphere is welcoming and the staff are trying their 2, Nea Makri, tel.22940 91330 If you are a fun of the
a truly special night out in Athens. The menu is a fine best when the place is packed. As for the bill, just don’t worry Italian cuisine, La Pasteria is an affordable option for dining
mixture of Greek and French dishes prepared with the about it. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. €€. PTJ out in the environment of a traditional trattoria The famous
best local organic produce. The dining hall has a theatrical Italian chef Ettore Botrini is in charge of a true italian menu
splendour with chandeliers, high ceilings and Greek pillars To Kafeneio I5, Loukianou 26, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) that contains a great variety of traditional Italian recipes,
but we recommend you book a table on the terrace where 210 7237757. Unadulterated traditional Greek food in an authentic Italian pizza and pasta, fresh salads and pastry.
you’ll feel you can almost touch the floodlit Parthenon. atmosphere of understated elegance. The dishes here are QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJA
QOpen 12:00 - 16:00 & 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. simple and flavoursome. We recommend the “aginares ala
€€€€. PJAUB polita” (artichokes in a lovely creamy egg and lemon sauce), L’osteria Da Claudio Varnali 26, Halandri, MHalandri,
stuffed cabbage leaves (“lachanodolmades”) or the lovely tel. (+30) 210 6834228, www.osteriaclaudio.gr. After
Varoulko C4, Pireos 80, Metaxourgeio, MThissio, speciality salad, accompanied by its good quality house twenty years of success on the island of Sifnos, Claudio set
Kerameikos, tel. 210 5228400,www.varoulko.gr. wine. Of course, this being Kolonaki you will pay a bit more up shop in the elegant Athenian neighbourhood of Halandri.
By far the best sea food restaurant in Athens. Lefteris for your Greek culinary experience, but then again, the pleas- Authentic, casual and relaxed, this traditional Italian taverna
Lazarou, a celebrity chef awarded with a Michelin star and ant atmosphere and tasteful surroundings (including the attracts time and again pasta lovers from every corner of
founder of Varoulko, chooses the foremost ingredients signatures of famous personalities that have passed through Athens who come here for the imaginative recipes and the
and creates a magnificent, yet simple menu. He maintains its doors) explain the pricing policy. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. freshness of the ingredients: Claudio boasts that there isn’t
a personal relationship with his guests and you’ll often Closed Sun. €€€. PJA a single can opener to be found in their kitchen! The place
see him leaving his kitchen and and discussing with them is a short taxi ride from Halandri metro station. QOpen
their impressions. A cellar visible from one of the dining Triantafyllo tis nostimias F5, Lekka 22, MSyntagma, 20:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAL
halls hosts an excellent list of Greek and international tel. (+30) 210 3227298. Difficult to pronounce and impos-
labels. A selection of daily-prepared imaginative des- sible to find as it is hidden inside a small arcade, this traditional
serts will ensure the best possible conclusion to your Greek taverna serves the local population of the surrounding Taverna: Synonymous with ‘tavern’ or ‘diner’, a
Varoulko experience. QOpen 20:30 - 0:30. Closed Sun. offices. There are both meat and fish dishes prepared with
€€€€. PJA fresh ingredients and a genuine taverna atmosphere that
no-frills, authentic and lower-priced eating-out
every Saturday afternoon comes alive with bouzouki. Add establishment.
to all that its ridiculous prices and you have a perfect lunch Psistaria / Psitopolio: No-frills grill-house serv-
Kioupia J4, Deinokratous & Anapiron Polemou, Kolonaki, place two minutes from Syntagma Sq. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. ing meat dishes.
tel. (+30) 210 7400151. The philosophy of this Greek res- Closed Sun. Closed Aug 10-31 €€. PTJE Mezedopolio: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
taurant is serving a plethora of traditional dishes from around
Greece, with an emphasis on local specialties, in a set menu that Tzitzikas and Mermigas G5, Mitropoleos 12-14, (entrées-nibbles)
is renowned for its lavish servings and never-ending succession Syntagma Sq, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3247607. Ouzeri: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’ that are
of finely-prepared dishes. There is also the option of an à la Located in the heart of Athens, at walking distance from many best accompanied by a carafe of ouzo
carte menu if you so prefer. Its strong point is that it offers an top and mid-range hotels, you’ll have to book in advance un- Tsipouradiko: Taverna specialising in ‘mezedes’
all-in-one crash-course introduction to Greek, regional cuisine in less you’re lucky. Crowded with all sorts of types and ages, that are best accompanied by a bottle of ‘tsi-
an elegant environment with a touch of aristocratic class. Bear this ‘mezedopolio’ is well known for its modern atmosphere
in mind, however, that the quantity occasionally overwhelms the and tastes. Decorated as an old grocery store, this 2-storey
pouro’
quality. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PJA establishment is ideal for a relaxed night out. There’s a good
‘ouzeri’ set up shop in the capital. Convenient location and Gialiskari Achilleos 119, Paleo Faliro, tel. (+30) 210
Souvlaki excellent ‘mezedes’ make it a favourite among Athenians 9837498. We don’t often recommend restaurants outside
and visitors alike. You may have to wait for a table (no the city centre unless we think that the food you will enjoy there
reservations) but it is well worth it. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. is really worth a short bus or tram ride. This is one of those
Bairaktaris E5, Monastiraki Sq, MMonastiraki, tel. full menu on the right and walk into the left door where you
€€. PJA cases: a restaurant paying utmost attention to the quality and
(+30) 210 3213036. Mr. Bairaktaris, the owner of this have no choice but a kebab in non greasy pita bread with
the freshness of the ingredients they use. The menu is therefore
historic kebab house (and a neoclassical buildings…collec- just tomato and onion, the original stuff sold here since
the fifties when the father’s owner came to Athens from
Rebecca D4, Miaouli 22, Psirri, MMonastiraki. If not set but depends on the fish that passed the cook’s daily
tor!) has been feeding both the Athenian élite and working you’re looking for an unaffected, no-frills going-out experi- tests: ie the best in the market. And what’s more: the bill will be
classes for decades. He loves being photographed with Constantinople. The kebab is top quality pure meat and
ence in a buzzing, youthful environment, this is wor th just a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere for the same quality.
his celebrity customers and putting the framed pictures on less spicy than elsewhere but the hot paprika added on
checking out. Situated in the lively nightlife area of Psirri Some regulars will be disappointed we’re giving away their little
the dining hall’s walls. Its strategic location on Monastiraki top adds that little piquant extra that makes it one of the
and brimming with a casual crowd of students sipping secret, but that’s our job after all, isn’t it? Tram from Syntagma
Square ensures it is perennially packed, despite fierce tastier choices in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
their “rakomela” (traditional sweet but in no way innocent Sq, tram stop Achilleos (about 30 min) QOpen 14:00 - 00:00.
competition by its equivalent neighbours. The kebab, which Sat, Sun. €. JNS drink concocted by warming up raki -a strong spirit- with Closed Mon. €€. PTA
is actually an elongated meatball flavoured with spices, is honey), the atmosphere here is reminiscent of a university
very tasty and the grease will keep you going for a whole Livadia F2, Gladstonos 7, MOmonia, tel. (+30) 210 campus bar. You will be surprised to find that despite its in Jackson Fish H5, Milioni 4, Kolonaki, MSyntagma, tel.
day if you’re on a budget holiday! QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 3832413. Named after the Greek town famous for its no way extraordinary décor, it manages to create a lively, (+30) 210 3616098. Jackson Hall’s second level has been
€€. PTJABS kalamaki this is a heavy-duty souvlatzidiko. A look in the playful ambience and you may even have to queue for a transformed into a fish restaurant following the establishment’s
refrigerator with the thousands of kalamakia waiting to be cramped little table on the curb. A good choice if you’re original principles: Great food and fun in a casual American atmo-
Iroon Square E5, Iroon Square 6, Psirri, MMonasti- grilled will give you a good idea of the turnover of this place the laid-back type and enjoy being at the epicentre of all sphere. White furniture and navy decoration prepare the visitors
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3218219. This is actually an address and therefore the freshness of the meat sold. The uneven the buzz - the ideal people-watching spot. QOpen 13:00 for the seafood feast that awaits them. There are lots of deli-
as this place has no name. It doesn’t need one as it has chunks of pork on the skewer, as opposed to the perfect
- 02:00. €€. JNB cious starters and mussel dishes but the emphasis is on large
been well known for years for its tasty fare among its fans cubes in most places, make them look and taste home-
fresh fish grilled to perfection.The clientele is the usual Kolonaki
who queue everyday during lunchtime to enjoy high quality made and are enjoyed by most on a plate with french fries
trendy crowds. Prices are fair for the quality of the food. QOpen
kalamakia and meatballs served on their own or inside half and a cold glass of beer. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sea Food 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. €€€. PTJA
a loaf of normal bread. If you are a fan of pita bread head Sat, Sun. €. JNS
Efta Thalasses G4, Omirou 11, Kolonaki, MPanepis-
elsewhere, none is served here. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. timio, tel. (+30) 210 3624825. Coming to Athens after Sardeles A5, Persefonis 15, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
Closed Sat, Sun. €. JNS Nikitas D4, Agion Anargyron 19, Psirri, MThissio, a big success in the capital of good food Thessaloniki, Efta (+30) 210 3478050. This modern and reasonably-priced fish
tel. (+30) 210 3252591. If you happen to pass through
Thalasses (seven seas) is a modern fish and sea food res- restaurant specializes in humble varieties of fish and has become
Kavouras G2, Themistokleous 64, Exarchia, MOmo- Psirri during the daytime and feel like an authentic cheap
taurant with a civilised feel. It is not dirt cheap but the qual- a huge success. When the weather is good it more than triples
nia, tel. (+30) 210 3838010. Feast your appetite on and delicious lunch, is very easy to spot Nikitas. It is the one
ity of the food served (everything is fresh and deliciously its size with pavement tables right on the main Gazi street, where
gyros or kalamaki, wrapped in warm pita bread and topped whose outside tables are always crammed and you may
cooked) makes it a good choice for an ouzo lunch among you can watch the crowds go by and enjoy the complimentary
with tzatziki. Kavouras is a place to savour the traditional have to wait for a while, but it is worth it. This psitopolio has
politicians and local businessmen. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. limoncello and masticha liquors offered to pleasantly conclude
Greek souvlaki, no niceties, no refinements, just plain old been serving the working crowds of Psirri since 1967 and
Closed Sun. Closed until Sep 6 €€€. PTJA your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 01:30. €€. PJA
hearty meat-lovers’ fare. If, while taking a stroll through has maintained a loyal clientele even these days with the
the district, you feel pangs of hunger and decide to look for hundreds of choices in the area. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,
something on the go, give it a try, though keep in mind that Sun Closed (July). €. JBS
good taste here is limited to the food, don’t go looking for
tasteful décor. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. €. JNS Thanassis E5, Mitropoleos 68, MMonastiraki, tel.
(+30) 210 3244705. Opposite Bairaktaris, this is the
Kosta E5, Agias Eirinis Sq, MMonastiraki, No Tele- second of the three establishments making up the souvlaki
phone. A lunch cult for Athenians in the know. Every day, triangle of Monastiraki square. Tourists just grab the first
from his narrow kitchen, Mr. Kostas serves hundreds of available table on the street without much thought to which
portions of his single speciality: Meatballs on pita bread, of the three it belongs, but the loyal to Thanassis locals will
french fries, tomato, spicy sauce and a pickled peper on wait as long as it takes, as they insist that the superiority
top. Do not expect seating and service, customers enjoy in taste and quality compared to the neighbours is clear.
their lunch standing outside, in one of Athens’ prettiest The downside is that the menu is limited but that shouldn’t
squares. With €6 you’ll stuff yourself and you’ll feel like a matter as a merida kebab is why you’re here for anyway.
true Athens insider. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €. JS
Sun. €. JNBS
Clemente G5, Voukourestiou 3, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) the marks of the extraordinary decade. The crowd is equally Home made sweets and preserves like cherry and bergamot,
210 3219340. Part of the City Link complex, this is a spot cheerful and relaxed, you are right on Exarchia square after huge ice cream servings, sweet crepes, baklava and all kinds
to watch people passing by. It has a French feel inside where all. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJB of coffees are served in this cute little cafe just off the main
people enjoy their drinks standing, and its cappuccinos are Psirri square. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. PT
excellent. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA Inoteka D5, Avissinias sq 3, Monastiraki, MMonasti-
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3246446. Located right in the middle Skoufaki H4, Skoufa 47-49, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
Da Capo H5, Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, of Monastiraki antique shops, hidden behind jumbles of old 210 3645888. A small café with character. This is where
tel. (+30) 210 3602497. Famous outdoor café, where any furniture and every kind of second hand item sold in Avissinias you’ll find your average arty type sitting side by side with
self-respecting nouveau riche Athenian wants to be spotted square this all day café-bar is a perfect stopover during your your typical mid 30s ladies taking a break from their strenu-
among politicians, actors and high profile celebrities. This wanders in the city. Coffees, cold snacks and sweets are on ous shopping spree. It’s a strange combination but, for this
isn’t just a simple “place to drink your coffee” choice but a offer from early in the morning and when the evening comes freestyle coffee shop, it seems to work out fine. You’ll get to
way of life for some of its regulars who spend hours here on electro and ambient dub sounds by different DJs attract listen to an assortment of music and, if you lose track of time,
a daily basis practicing the intricate ancient art of checking young and fashionably alternative crowds. QOpen 07:00 you’ll witness its gradual transformation into a night bar. If you
out passing crowds. Espresso and cappuccino prices are - 03:00. PJB want to stay out of sight, try the upstairs level. Lazy sofas and
surprisingly reasonable considering the location and the cozy corners are perfect for hush-hush rendezvous. QOpen
clientele. QOpen 07:30 - 00:00. PJB Kafeneio Thissio C6, Akamantos 2, Thissio, MThissio,, 10:00 - 02:00. PJ
tel. (+30) 210 3473133. This café was serving the locals of
Dioskouroi Café D5, Adrianou 39, Monastiraki, MMo- Thissio long before bars and cafés took over every last inch Stavlos C5, Iraklidon 10, Thissio, MThissio, tel. (+30)
nastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3253323. ‘Dioskouroi’ were the of available space around the area. These days, its clientele 210 3467206, www.stavlos.gr. The King’s stables once,
sons of Zeus and Leda. This is one of the few cafés under this is a lot younger and its decoration modern and minimal. It now a café, restaurant, club and art exhibition venue all under
label in the region and is situated in the picturesque spot just maintains a distinct laid back Bohemian character, unlike most the same roof. It is probably the only one among equivalent
above Monastiraki Metro station. Students love it and you’ll of its undifferentiated neighbouring counterparts. Drinks are establishments situated on Thission’s central night-time
have a hard time finding a table. Order frappé or Greek coffee cheap and if you feel peckish after the obligatory walk around thoroughfare, which is known by its name and which can
in the morning and if you hang around long enough, continue the Acropolis Rock, a light lunch comes at low prices. QOpen boast of loyal regulars. The inner courtyard provides a
with ouzo and “mezedes” while practicing your backgammon 10:00 - 02:00. PJ pleasant alternative if you’re not desperate to enjoy your
skills. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB drink with a ‘catwalk’ view just outside. QOpen 09:00 -
Klepsidra E6, Klepsidras & Thrasyvoulou 9, Plaka, 02:00. PJA
Ethnikon G5, Syntagma Square, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3212493. A nicely isolated
210 3310576. You can’t get any more central than this. Right from the madding crowd café, it is a must stop during your Zonar’s (Le Café D’Athenes) G5, Panepistimiou &
on Syntagma Sq, the heart of the city, this is an essential wandering in the narrow streets of Plaka. Coffees and refresh- Voukourestiou st, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3211158.
stop between sightseeing walks. ments will be placed next to the tasteful little fragrant basil A historic café that opened its doors again, following complete
If the weather is good, grab a table under the trees, get your plants adorning the tables. An idyllic setting for quiet evening renovation a couple of years ago. It has the atmosphere of a
camera out, order a frappé and enjoy being a complete tourist! drinks too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JB grand café, a rich history during the last century and a very
QOpen 06:00 - late. PTJA central location. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJA
Krinos E4, Aiolou 87, tel. (+30) 210 3216852. This café
Filion H4, Skoufa 34, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 3612850. has been around since the twenties. Most of its regulars
Despite its unremarkable décor, this lively café manages too! Its old style has been kept intact, despite the occa-
Cafés to retain its multitude of regular customers (many of them sional refurbishments. Here you’ll savour the best bougatsa
famous actors and writers), because of its cosy laid-back (cream pie topped with sugar and cinnamon) in town. Also
Acropolis Museum Café E7, New Acropolis Museum, atmosphere and congenial environment. The coffee here loukoumades, ice-cream and sandwiches priced lower for
MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9000901. Someone should is superb and so is the ice-cream, as this is one of the few takeaways. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Sat 07:30 - 15:30, Tue,
finally set an example in this overcharging city and what a places serving acclaimed Greek ice-cream brand Kayak, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PTJNS
nice surprise: it was the brand new Acropolis Museum with guaranteed additive and preservative-free. A good choice for
its two cafés. Elsewhere you’d pay through the nose for the lingering and enjoying an invigorating beverage together with Magaze E5, Aiolou 33, tel. (+30) 210 3243740. This
view and the privilege of the surroundings (the terrace tables a scoop or two (or three!), or a traditional pastry following a café became an instant hit as soon as it opened its doors a
are facing directly the Parthenon), but here you can enjoy the strenuous shopping session in Kolonaki. QOpen 08:00 - couple of years ago. Trendy and colourful crowds frequent it
absolute cheapest coffee in town (€1.50-2.50) and snacks 24:00. PTJB and its regulars prefer to sit at the bar under the huge map
and salads (€2.50-6.00) with traditional Greek products pre- of Athens that covers one of its walls. Mind you, on a sunny
pared with a modern twist. We look forward to the complete Gallery Café D5, Adrianou 33, Monastiraki, MMonas- day, it can be impossible to get a table outside. QOpen
menu they have promised. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed tiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3249080, www.cafe-gallery.com. 09:00 - late. PJB
Mon. PTJUB This is a café-restaurant and a genuine art gallery under the
same roof. The periodic art exhibitions often brighten up National Gardens café H6, National Gardens, Irodou
Aiolis E5, Aiolou 23, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 conversations and attract passing crowds. Exhibits range Attikou entrance, MSyntagma. Grab a book and walk
3312839. A large café housed in a lovely neo-classical from photography to sculpture and handicrafts. On Saturday into the national gardens where you’ll find this little tranquil
building. The tables outside are usually occupied by tourists afternoons (15:30) a jazz trio performs swing tunes at no outdoor café, with its tables scattered in the thick shade
enjoying their drinks in the sun, but the real attraction of Aiolis extra charge and Sunday mornings are dedicated to classi- of the garden’s trees. Coffees, snacks, refreshments and
is the atmospheric interior with its high ceilings and wooden cal music performed by a string quartet. If you prefer people the best cool afternoon break in the city. QOpen 09:00 -
panels. QOpen 09:00 - late. PJNB watching, grab a table outside and enjoy your Greek mountain 20:00. J6B
tea or Jamaican coffee on the busy Adrianou street with a
Booze E4, Kolokotroni 57, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) direct view of the Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Polis F3, Pesmazoglou 5, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30)
210 3240944, booze@boozecooperativa.com, www. Attalos. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTJAEB 210 3249588. This is a secret retreat to get away from the
boozecooperativa.com. This is not an ordinary café, it is hustle and bustle, right in the centre of the city. An first class
rather a part of an alternative art house, Booze Cooperativa, Ginger Ale G2, Themistokleous 74, Exarchia, MOmo- choice for a relaxing light lunch or a cold refreshing drink during
that hosts a large number of art events, exhibitions, concerts, nia, tel. (+30) 210 3301246. Retro pop has become so a warm spring afternoon. To get there you must pass through
video art projections and performances. There is a long trendy during the last few years in Athens, that it is getting the bookshops’ arcade which is an interesting visit in its own
wooden table, magazines and board games, and if you feel a bit boring, not least because of the cheap and soulless right. QOpen 08:30 - late, Sun morning closed.
at home and spend the whole day there, just step upstairs imitations of 60s objects and furniture used en masse by
to the night club, an offspring of the historic 90s Booze club. owners who in their effort to differentiate their place achieve Serbetia tou Psirri Eschylou 3, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
QOpen 10:00 - late. PJ6E the exact opposite result. Ginger Ale is no place like that, tel. (+30) 210 3245862. The best way to finish off the
every piece of furniture is an original vintage item carrying dinner you’ve just had in Taverna tou Psirri across the street.
Athens Sports Bar E8, Veikou 3A, Makry, MAcropolis, Blues Panormou 20, Ampelokipoi, MPanormou, tel.
www.athenssportsbar.gr. It’s the only Australian-run bar in (+30) 210 6437667. A bit of Memphis and Tennessee
Athens and it caters to ex-pats, tourists and all sports fans in Athens, this bar draws the laid back type of characters
who love watching a game of their favourite sport the right who don’t care much about keeping up appearances. They
way: with lots of beer and a fun atmosphere. Mondays are simply want to sip bourbon and listen to some good old blues,
pub quiz nights and Thursdays Karaoke. Happy hour every surrounded by posters of famous musicians, guitars and
evening 19:00-20:00 QOpen 07:30 - late. PJB trumpets. Every Friday and Saturday climb the stairs to the
first floor to enter a whole different world. Rock legends adorn
Baba Au Rum E5, Kleitiou 6, MSyntagma, Monastiraki. the walls, while the music takes you back in time, when rock
Forget everything you knew about cocktails! This new arrival used to rule supreme. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.
is virtually a cocktail lab! The guys import directly most of the
rare spirits, bitters and syrups they use to produce their out- Brettos F6, Kydathineon 41, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel.
of-this-world cocktails. Their excellent menu-booklet includes (+30) 210 3232110, www.brettosplaka.com. A unique
seven cocktails you ‘must taste at least once in your lifetime’. store and one of the oldest Athenian family distilleries, selling
We had them all during our first visit and we can only agree its own brand of traditional sweet liquors during the day and
with the statement. The place itself has the minimal-industrial a bar serving these same spirits in the evening. The colourful
feel of the ‘Bios’ school but most people stand outside right bottles on the shelves covering its walls are artfully lit and
in the heart of the city’s historic triangle. The only negative make the place one of the most recognisable attractions of
point is that it can take long to be served when the place is Plaka. Bring your camera: Switched at low shutter speeds, it
packed. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB will produce some interesting pictures to take home. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PJ
Bartesera F5, 25, Kolokotroni St. & Praxitelous Gallery,
MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3229805. This bar is divided Cachica Club B4, Plataion 5 & Agisilaou, Kerameikos,
into 3 parts. A sitting room for quiet conversations, a bustling MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3470188. Cachica is a bar
section and, in the middle, a space for those who like a bit of that serves up summer evenings, rustic warmth and classic
both. As for the music, expect nothing less than alternative cool. Travelling the world with parties that explore music from
lashings of jazz, progressive, soul and hip-hop. One of the different countries and genres, if you’re looking to escape from
hottest night spots in town these days, frequented by your uber arty-farty haunts, electro-pop and hippie hang outs, a
average 25-40 freestylers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Closed: nightcap here is just the ticket. With a perfectly restored,
Aug 13-24. PJB neo-classical interior bathing in soft, gold and red lighted hues
accentuated by coloured, opaque glass windows in rich blues,
Belafonte C4, Agisilaou 61, Kerameikos, MKer- greens and purples, banners falling from the gloriously high
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3462054. What could easily be ceiling and natural embellishments, there is no place quite
described as Nixon’s little brother, Belafonte is flying the flag like it in town. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PJ
for the Nixon-style Doxiadis-executed design identity. With
greys in a lighter shade, Nixon’s downtown New York urban Capu F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3226844.
chic has been streamlined with clean, warehouse lines, plenty One of the two bars that have transformed this small arcade
Bars of standing space, and a magnificent glass façade overlooking
the dark, atmospheric streets of downtown Athens. A bar with
on Lekka street into a buzzing nightspot. The decoration
is retro-pop and the music is mainly black beat and soul.
A Lier Man A4, Sofroniou 2 Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. lights that perfectly illuminate, Belafonte is the ultimate night QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
(+30) 210 3426322. This bar-restaurant belongs to the haunt for the devilishly hip. QOpen 20:30 - 03:00. PJ
select club of establishments that become trendy as soon Circus G3, Navarinou 11, Exarchia, MPanepistimio, tel.
as they open their doors to the public. Tucked in a narrow Big Apple G3, Skoufa 69, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3615255. Different styles of people mingle in a
street just off the main Gazi square, it has been one of the (+30) 210 3643820. This bar restaurant obviously reminds cozy bar that fills up every single night. Try their cocktails and
big hits of the last season. Although they serve food, the one of New York. If you decide to dine here, be warned: You hold your ground. You’re in for a night of pushing, shoving and
place is primarily a bar with small rooms and smart decora- may have someone’s backside ending up in your plate. Or up close and personal. Helpful Tip: head for the settee at the
tion where freestyle crowds pack themselves to enjoy good some of the squashed customers might attack you in order back of the room. It’s the best place to be when things get
music of different genres. When the weather is good a couple to take your seat. Big Apple is the spot to be if you’re looking crowded. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJ
of tables outside serve as a much needed chill out retreat. for some flirting or loud RnB/ pop music in a crowded environ-
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJK ment. Take our word for it, it’s probably more sensible to stick Crudo A4, Konstantinoupoleos & Megalou Alexandrou,
to alcohol, eye contact and dancing than to try and maintain a Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3477048. Wine bars
Alley Cat A4, Konstantinoupoleos 50, Gazi, MKer- conversation over what was supposed to be a quiet romantic are rarely found in Athens despite the fact that Greece has
ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3454406, thecat@alleycat.gr, dinner. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJA come a long way in its appellation products. It was an Ital-
www.alleycat.gr. If cold beer and rock is what you need after ian, Antonio, who finally created a minimal and chic vineria,
a good dinner in Gazi, then you’ll find it in this old converted Bios B4, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, MKerameikos/ where you can complement your choice of Italian and Greek
house. A welcome change from the almost identical music Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3425335, www.bios.gr. A point labels with a large variety of cheeses and hams supplied
played in every bar around the area. Music is not too loud, of reference for the alternative-progressive Athenian youth. A directly by the best Italian producers. With prices as low as
understandably as there are residences around, so don’t minimal bar, a stage for live performances, a basement club €4 per glass, your evening here can turn into an interesting
expect a head-banging kind of evening. QOpen 21:00 - hosting experimental djs and two small art house cinemas, and fun wine-tasting experience. The music is appropriately
03:00. Closed Mon. all under the same industrial roof of a beautiful bauhaus cheerful and discreet. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 -
building with a quiet roof garden with a distinct downtown 02:00. PJAB
Ambariza F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210 feel. Founder Vassilis Charalampidis, a designer and his team,
3257644. It opens early in the morning serving coffees and have embarked on a ‘creative exploration of the multiple En Delphis G3, Delfon 5, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio,
snacks etc but this place is basically a watering hole for selec- manifestations of urban culture’, at the same time bringing tel. (+30) 210 3608269. In the summer or when weather
tive drinkers. Dark wood is everywhere and the long bar is its Athenian nightlife a step closer to Berlin, London and New York. permits, large crowds occupy the lovely pedestrianised street
strongest point while guest DJs fill the place with appropriate Its quiet roof garden has a distinct downtown feel. QOpen with the neoclassical buildings, situated in this quintessential
funky - jazzy tunes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PJ 11:00 - 3:00. PJW meeting point of the Athenian bar scene. Its loyals are neither
the posh nor the grungey types that hang around the two
inyourpocket.gr districts that it borders, Kolonaki and Exarchia respectively.
Basically, a happy medium. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJ
Fantaseed A4, Triptolemou 8, Gazi, MKerameikos. Micraasia A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi, MKer- Pop E5, Kleitiou 10, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210
Freestyle bar that could have been a house but thank good- ameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3469139, www.micraasia. 3220650. Imagine fitting a bar in your corridor. That’s how
ness someone decided to make better use of it. It can get loud gr. A old neoclassical house, just off the main bar square narrow Pop is, situated in the city centre opposite a shoe
and crowded but that’s what those stylish small rooms are of Gazi, belonging to the owner’s family since they moved shop that in the evening suffers tens of young people sprawled
cozily tucked away for. Sprawl yourselves on the indulgently to Athens from Asia minor in 1926, is now converted into on its doorstep. Why should you go to a bar that probably
comfy settees and stay away of the dance floor. Unless you’re a 3 level atmospheric nightspot. A ground floor bar playing doesn’t have the space to accommodate your entire group
up for one last drunken spin. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PJ funky tunes, a first floor bistro with small rooms and flowery of friends within its premises? Because this is where you’ll
wallpapers and an open air terrace (when weather permits) get to savour the finest margueritas in town, to the sounds
Galaxy Bar F4, Stadiou 10, MPanepistimio/Syntagma, with an ethnic feel. The whole experience is completed with of Pulp and the rest of Brit-Pop hits. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
tel. (+30) 210 322 77 33.. Vintage at its best, a small bar Mediterranean food coming in small tapas portions, nargile Aug closed PJ
that has existed in Athens for ever, as reflected in its smoke and live dance show every Friday evening. The bar hosts
stained walls and furniture. Original seventies, with not-so- interesting photographic exhibitions of new and famous Priza Bar F4, Christou Lada 1, Karitsi Sq, MPanepisti-
young regulars, it has a civilised gentleman-like atmosphere, artists. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJ mio, tel. (+30) 210 3244101, www.stinpriza.gr. A bar
and, as such, it is not recommended for a crazy night out. decorated with hundreds of… sockets, promising to electrify
Come here instead to experience how people used to enjoy Molly Malone’s Yiannitsopoulou 8, Glyfada, tel. (+30) your evenings in Athens. It is fast acquiring its own fans and
their evenings in an era long gone: fine drinks and meaning- 210 8944247, www.mollymalones.gr. Come the spring, becoming a distinct presence around Karitsi square, a neigh-
less conversation. Q Open 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. the Athenians just love to spend their evenings down the bourhood with many bars of different styles that, nonetheless,
Closed Aug PJN coast, in and around the southern seaside suburb of Gly- all cater for selective crowds of the city. A different dj takes his
fada.The tram from Syntagma Sq will get you straight there place behind the decks every evening, playing anything from
Galaxy Bar (Hilton hotel) K5, Vas. Sofias Ave 46, and you can combine your little excursion with an evening of electronica to house and freestyle. Just watch your fingers,
MEvangelismos, tel. (+30) 210 728 10 00. Stay away authentic Irish hospitality and probably the only Irish Stew unless of course you are desperate for a funky Einstein-
if you’re on a budget holiday, but do come along to the roof you can find in Athens. Molly Mallone’s has been around reminiscent hairdo! QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB
bar of the Athens Hilton if you’re the type who only feels at for more than five years and it’s a regular meeting point
home when mingling with important (looking) people, even if for the many expats of the area as well as locals who love Rock n’ Roll I5, Loukianou 6, Kolonaki, MSyntagma,
this comes at a price of €15 per drink. A classy bar not to be live sports and a pint of Guiness or two. QOpen 12:00 - tel. (+30) 210 7217127, www.rocknroll.gr. For more
confused with the classic Galaxy on Stadiou Ave.Amazing city 02:00. PTEK than twenty years Rock n’ Roll has been a nightlife point of
view, fine cocktails and delicious finger food, accompanied reference in posh Kolonaki. Always packed with affluent and
by music from top Athenian radio djs, all at the…appropriate Nipiagogeio A5, Elasidon & Kleanthous 8, Gazi, pretty faces, as mainstreem as it gets and relatively hard to
price. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. PAB MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3458534. This old and get in, this is a typical place to savour the wicked Athenian
stylish Athenian house used to be a kindergarten and that’s nightlife you’ve been hearing about. On Saturday afternoons,
Gazaki A4, Triptolemou 31, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. what its name means. It looks quiet from the outside but just after the shops close the party starts and goes on until
(+30) 210 3460901. Those in favour of an evening of drink- that’s only because this is a residential area and many the early hours of Sunday. They serve food too - burgers
ing and hooking up with complete strangers should head for locals have complained about the noise in the past. You etc - but you are not here to stuff yourself but to see and be
Gazaki. In a neighbourhood crammed with bars, you’ll often might have to wait in line after midnight as it tends to get seen. An effort to look smart will pay off at the door. QOpen
find yourself wondering off into the street, glass in hand, only seriously packed, but that’s the price you have to pay for 21:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 13:30 - 05:00. PJA
to return a little later to wrap up the evening by knocking back good old soul and funk music and wonderful decoration. If
tequila shots and mumbling utter nonsense to the person you want to get more comfy and intimate you might try the Seven Jokers F5, Voulis 7, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210
who as it happened was unfortunate enough to be standing room to your left (as you walk in). It’s almost pitch black in 3219225. A real fun bar for those who want to get sloshed.
next to you. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ there. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ The owner/bartender puts on an amazing show, with dancing
and singing on his everyday menu. Freestylers and media staff
Hoxton A4, Voutadon 42, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. Nixon B4, Agisilaou 61, Metaxourgeio, MKerameikos, love it here, but you’ll also get to meet expats as Reuters is
(+30) 210 3413395. In Hoxton’s industrial environment, tel. (+30) 210 3462007. It feels good to be able to take at walking distance from here. And when you find yourself
you get the distinctive impression that seamstresses are con- part in a conversation without having to scream one’s lungs awake the next morning on a bench or on one of the bar’s
stantly working behind the Chesterfield couches to shorten out in order to be heard. DJs wouldn’t exactly fit in the same seats with a terrible hangover, just order a coffee and one of
those baggy pants of yours. Pop, rock and electro glimpses room together but this is why this “film noir” bar attracts those delicious sandwiches Seven Jokers offers in the morn-
in an environment alluding more to a workhouse. There are all sorts of types. Minimal decoration for low profile people, ing and head off straight to work. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sun
quite a few bars just outside the Kerameikos metro station with better things to do than stare at the couple on the 21:00 - 03:00. PJ
but make no mistake, this club is one of the top hot spots of beautiful red leather couch. Tasty nibbles from a limited
Athenian nightlife. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PJ menu in case your stomach begins to grumble. QOpen Six D.O.G.S. E5, Avramiotou 6-8, MMonastiraki, tel.
21:00 - 03:00. PJA (+30) 2103210510. A completely new concept has taken
Intrepid Fox A4, Triptolemou 30, MKerameikos, tel. over Avramiotou Street, a tiny, little road hidden just off Athinas
(+30) 210 3466055. With its name borrowed from the O’Connell’s Akti Miaouli 79, Piraeus, MPiraeus, tel. Street. Once the haunt of skaters and general night-time
legendary London club, this new Gazi entry is of course a (+30) 210 4281110. A new entry at the port of Piraeus, shenanigans with four different bars offering up four very
pure rock-metal house. There are hundreds of posters and this brand new Irish pub became an instant hit with the different identities, 6 D.O.G.S has taken over with a bar, an
record covers of the genre on the walls, a long bar, and a shipping community of the biggest harbour in east Mediter- events space as well as a gallery. Hosting a mixture of live
pool table and the music is thankfully far from the stale old ranean. Open all day for lunch, dinner, after work drinks, and and electronic musical events and parties practically on a
type rock one expects to listen in similar establishments. of course all live sporting events on satellite TV. QOpen daily basis, this is one street that’s always got something
Live performances organised from time to time. QOpen 12:00 - late. PAK going on. Good times to be had. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
10:00 - 02:00. PJEK Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJEB
Pairidaeza F4, Parnasou 3, MPanepistimio, Syn-
Mai Tai I4, Ploutarchou 18, Kolonaki, MEvangelismos, tagma, tel. (+30) 210 3210233. Paradise in Persian. Swing A4, Iakchou 8 & Efmolpidon, MKerameikos,
tel. (+30) 210 7258306. This is a good choice for Kolonaki Situated on Karitsi Square, the owners of this bar seem to tel. (+30) 210 3451508. It seems that the team behind
beginners in the sense that it doesn’t feel as exclusive as have a distinct preference for black music. Perhaps that’s other iconic success stories in the Athenian nightlife are up
other establishments in the area, (without of course being their image of the afterlife. A room filled with indie-style to something similar in the Gazi Area. A cool and cosy bar,
completely laid back). Typical Kolonaki crowds enjoy early furniture and James Brown effigies singing “it’s too funky in and a tastefully decorated club upstairs make up oe of the
and late drinks: the after work ones, and those who come in here”. Should you decide to go out late, past metro opening top hotspots in Gazi. Different DJs every eveningl fill the place
later, with a certain number of regulars ‘working’ both ‘shifts’. hours, don’t worry. Driving there is also an option, courtesy with tunes ranging from swing to soul, and they have tango
If too much socializing makes you hungry, there is a Greek of an extensive parking lot situated right next to Pairidaeza. and milonga classes every Wednesday afternoon. QOpen
Mediterranen selection of dishes to choose from. QOpen QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PJ 21:00-03:00. Closed Mon. PJK
11:00 - 02:00. JB
Tapas Bar A4, Triptolemou 44, Gazi, MKerameikos, Clubs Vinilio Riba’s club, 32 km Athens-Sounio road, tel. (+30)
tel. (+30) 210 3471844. The Iberian peninsula in the Baraonda Tsocha 43, MAmpelokipi, tel. (+30) 210 210 9655555, www.discovinilio.com. The city’s only
heart of Athens. Start off with interesting Spanish nibbles in 6444308. A luxurious club-restaurant located behind “Leo- original discoteque has moved to it’s summer opain-air home
the small dining area and end up knocking back the great- foros” Stadium, old home to Panathinaikos FC. Businessmen, on the coastal road to Sounio: disco balls, black neon lights,
est mai tais you’ve tasted since your last trip to Madrid. politicians and plain showoffs are often spotted here. It might the works.As always the music is the exact 60s 70s and 80s
Funky Tapas bar used to be low profile and selective, but be a little hard to get in if you’re not appropriately dressed, hits you’d expect and it’s strictly from vinyl records! It’s only
the owners probably thought their setting was big enough but don’t worry about being turned away if you wear sneak- natural that there aren’t many teens among the regulars but
to merit a change. They may have to think again. QOpen ers. If they are made by Ferrari that is! Dimmed lighting inside what do teens know about good old fashioned fun? QOpen
21:00 - 03:00. PJA prevents you from taking a closer look at your dinner. Don’t 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. B
worry; it’s all wholesome and elegantly presented on your
The Art Foundation (TAF) D5, Normanou 5, Mo- plate. If you worry about finding another parking spot for a Vitrine Summer G8, Markou Moussourou 1 & Arditou,
nastiraki, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, night cap, no need to leave early as this neo-baroque venue MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 9242444. You won’t forget for Athens is not a European sex destination. However, as a
www.theartfoundation.gr. Established in 2008, TAF is is a full scale club too. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. a second you’re in Athens as this club’s main selling point is the big city, it certainly offers a range of sinful pleasures to its
a relatively new kid on the Monastiraki block, a refreshing €€€€. PJAK huge veranda with a fantastic view of the lit up Acropolis rock locals and visitors. The legal part of prostitution caters to
and creative endeavour that puts all other art-cum-bar and the night skyline of the city. However, alternative types, the lower end of the market. Brothels are concentrated in
establishments to shame. An outdoor bar situated in the BoBaYo G8, Arditou 1, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 will only have the view to remember as the music is a typical certain areas of the city such as Metaxourgeio or around
courtyard of an exquisitely rundown neoclassical building 9219397. This is actually a long and narrow garden in the mainstream soup targeting people who mainly want to see and Filis St. and are usually seedy establishments housed in
dating back to 1870, the soothing sound of jazz, cool light- middle of a busy road converted every summer by different be seen in one of the capitals prime night spots. Drinks cost old buildings that can be distinguished by a simple light
ing and lovingly-tended plants make for a vibrant and intel- people into a club (this year three winter clubs joined forces). €10 QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. JB bulb placed at the entrance, which is lit even during the
lectual atmosphere that attracts the crème-de-la-crème Do not be detered by the heavy traffic all around, once you day. The ladies in most of these have seen better days
of the Athenian crowd. Its excellent exhibition programme
changes frequently and utilises the entire space in a way
hide inside its thick greenery, the cheerful music will be the
only thing you hear. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Adult Entertainment and the prices are accordingly low (€20-€30).
As for illegal prostitution, the cheaper end of the spec-
that would bring any art enthusiast to their knees. One of Alcatraz Syngrou 137, tel. (+30) 210 9316417, www. trum is basically composed of street workers that can be
the best bars Athens has to offer, a nightcap here brings Cubanita D4, Karaiskaki 28, Psirri, MMonastiraki, tel. alcatraz.gr. Some tables are just a breath away from the found during night hours along Solonos St. and around
together fine art and even finer conversation. Q Open (+30) 210 3314605. This night club has been around for dancefloor, but if you’re not lucky enough to get one of them, you Theatrou Sq. and Evripidou St. just off the Psirri nightlife
19:00 - 01:00. J6B many years but it hasn’t lost any of its Cuban finesse and can watch the show - which is the strong point of this club - on district. The latter ones are mostly good looking African
atmosphere. Cuban bands perfom on its live stage and its the plasma screens too. QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. girls, illegal immigrants who work the streets for little
The James Joyce D5, Astigos 12, Monastiraki, regulars are the fun loving Athenians of all ages. Dress up, get money and very often face organised police raids and
MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3235055, fax into the mood and shake your hips to the Caribbean rhythms. Baby Gold Syngrou 140, tel. (+30) 210 9228902/(+30) disappear for a few hours in the back streets of the area.
(+30) 210 3235070, info@jjoyceirishpubathens.com, QOpen 22:30 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJE 210 9235576, www.babygold.gr. The music is really loud in Be aware that these girls do not necessarily undergo any
www.jjoyceirishpubathens.com. This is precisely what here and if you forget about the naked beauties all around, you medical examinations, which their counterparts in the
was missing from the Athenian scene: A typical Irish pub. Island 27th km Athens - Sounio road, Varkiza, tel. (+30) could easily mistake it for a dance club. Things can get really legal brothels are legally bound to undertake. The higher
All major sports events are covered and every weekend 210 8925000. This classic summer nightclub could not be hot (and expensive) if you opt for a private lapdance. Avoid it end of the market is naturally made up of call girls that
and some week nights artists from around Europe perform called anything else. If you like being among well dressed, Fridays and Saturdays and better stick to beer. QOpen 23:30 publicise their services in many Greek newspapers, thinly
live. The decoration is unpretentious and tasteful: dark tanned, good-looking people and are willing to drive or take - 06:00. Admission fee: €15 (one drink included). disguised as soul mate ads. One of these (foreign) ladies’
wood, barrels, porcelain and books. The interesting black a 40 minutes taxi ride down the coast of Athens, you’ll be hourly visit rates will set you back at least €100.
n’ white liquor trade photos add an extra touch to the rewarded with a wonderful seaside setting and feel like you Baby O Pireos 171, tel. (+30) 210 3477744, www. For those with more…‘particular’ tastes, every night
whole drinking ritual.If your stomach begins to complain, spend one of your Athens nights on a real island. The food is baby-o.gr. One of the oldest strip clubs in town, with a really along the right hand by-street of Syngrou Avenue (running
order, what else? Fish n’chips. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Mediterranean and pricey but you can come just for drinks, funny DJ whose comments are unfortunately only in Greek! from the centre of the city down towards Piraeus), boys
PJA6IEB in which case you shouldn’t arrive before midnight. QOpen The shows performed by the girls get really hot. Try to get dressed as girls (transvestites) take up their posts and
21:00 - 04:00. €€€€. ABK one of the tables next to the dancefloor, you won’t regret it. wait for their clients. Prices negotiated on the spot.
Toy Bar F4, Karitsi 10, MPanepistimio/ Syntagma, Otherwise, the large sofas are roomy enough for all of you plus Of course there is always the pure entertainment option:
tel. (+30) 210 3311555. This is a small bar that pio- Second Skin A4, Konstantinopoleos 78 and Iera Odos, the ladies you’ll invite for drinks (€20). Lap dance: €10 QOpen you can head for one of the numerous strip clubs that
neered the nightlife scene around Karitsi Square. A classic Keramikos, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 6974140013. If 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15. spring up in the city like mushrooms, where foreign girls
already, it encompasses three distinctive bars within the you’ve got an insatiable need to dress up in black leather and will table-dance for you or just keep you company if you
same establishment: In the morning, it serves coffee and strut your stuff like a main character in a Goth fantasy, then Diammond Dolls Syngrou 237, tel. (+30) 210 9421264, buy them an (expensive) drink (do not expect much more
sandwiches, in the late afternoon, it attracts professionals Second Skin is the place for you. A seriously seductive club www.penthhouseclub.gr. Some of the girls in this club could than this). Most of these clubs have an ongoing dance
for after work drinks while, in the evening, it transforms catering for the darker souls among us, this is one place girls easily be Playboy bunnies but the management is not content show, some quite explicit. Fortunately, you only pay for
itself into a lively and perennially packed bar with a loyal (and boys) can let their (Goth) hair down. The upper floor’s with them alone and from time to time calls in international what you get and there aren’t frequent cases of ripping
clientele that flocks here to enjoy delicious cocktails and electro dance floor is perfect for dirty hip-shaking (Fri-Sat), while celebrity showgirls to keep the regulars on the alert. A private off like it happens in many other European capitals.
listen to excellent music of different genres, depending on the ‘catacombdownstairs provides a more intimate setting. dance upstairs will set you back €50. Drinks cost €11, table (Owners wouldn’t want to push their luck, as these clubs
the resident dj. One of our favourites. QOpen 10:00 - QOpen 23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. PJ dance €12 QOpen 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: €15. although tolerated aren’t exactly legal). That is not to say
02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PJA6 that what you get is cheap. Your entrance with one drink
Venue A5, Pireos 130, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 Grand Ritorno K5, Michalakopoulou 52, MMegaro costs €10-15, a table dance of 2-3 minutes €10-15 and
Tribeca G3, Skoufa 46, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio, 3411410, www.venue-club.com. A typical Athenian mega- Mousikis, tel. (+30) 210 7245233, www.grandritorno. the ladies’ drinks €20 or more. Most gentlemen’s clubs,
tel. (+30) 210 3623541. Young flir ty professionals club hosting celebrity DJs from around the world. Mainstream, gr. A large number of mostly stunning dancers will happily join as is their self-professed title, are to be found on both
gather here for after-work drinks to see and be seen by posey crowds is the norm, with exceptions depending on the you for a drink (€20-30) or tabledance for you (€10-50). The sides of Syngrou Avenue and are easily recognisable by
their peers. Music is mainstream, drinks are good but if guest DJ There are three separate sitting areas, the main one regular shows during the night aren’t exeptional but the service their bright neon signs, but you can find them elsewhere
you arrive dressed as if coming straight from the beach, for the commoners, a VIP and a super exclusive one behind the is polite and the drinks passed our quality tests. QOpen in town too. Your hotel receptionist will probably be able
souvlaki-gyros in hand, you will definitely raise a few eye- DJ booth, just to remind us that when it comes to nightlife we’re 23:30 - 06:00. Admission fee: Week nights: €10, Weekends: to point you to one of them.
brows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJA not all the same. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJ €15 (one drink included).
My Bar E5, Kakourgiodikiou 6, Psiri, MMonastiraki, S-Cape Army Academy A4, Megalou Alexandrou
139, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. 210 3411003, www.s-
tel. (+30) 6932 338551, www.mybar.gr. A fine cocktail
cape.gr. A large club with an army theme and a strong
bar outside the gay district of Gazi with minimal decoration,
presence in the gay nightlife scene. It consists of two
reasonably priced drinks, finger food and different music every
separate rooms, an outdoors cocktail lounge open in
night. The crowds are young, trendy and friendly. Look out for
the weekends, and an indoors club where you can dance
their special theme parties QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PJ
the night away among its young regulars. The music is
mainstream-dance.(Thursdays are Greek nights) QOpen
Clubs 22:00 - 04:00.PJ
Kazarma A3, Konstantinopoleos 84 (1st floor), Gazi,
MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3460667. A small but Sodade A4, Triptolemou 10, Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
vibrant gay club with a youthful and sexy clientele of all ages 210 3468657. Pretty young faces and pure dance music
and walks of life. The music is mainstream (every Thursday is make this place one of the most popular ‘straight friendly’
Greek night) and as soon as the weather permits its superb clubs in town. Both its rooms are packed during weekends
roof garden becomes one of the top gay meeting points in the and the party doesn’t stop till early morning hours. QOpen
city. QOpen 23:00 - late. Closed Mon, Tue. PJB 23:30 - 06:00. PJ
www.greekgayguide.eu / www.gaygreece.gr
www.athenspride.eu / www.lesbian.gr
The Erechtheion on the Acropolis Rock. The Caryatids are replicas of the original ones housed in the new Museum
Acropolis of Athens , MAcropolis, tel. 210 3210219. 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great or City Dionysia
Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m., the Acropolis of Athens celebrations. Here too was the theatre of Dionysus, one of
is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted the world’s most ancient theatres, where the works of the Ae-
to a natural site to form what has become a model worldwide schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. The same
and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important archaeological area is also home to the Odeion of Pericles,
religious centre and its monuments, (the Parthenon, the ancient Athens’ first roofed building for musical contests,
Erechtheion, the Propylaea -the monumental entrance to the the sanctuary of the healing god Asklepius founded in the
Acropolis- and the small Temple of Athena Nike) have become 5th century BC, the Stoa given to the city in 160 B.C. by the
an important symbol of ancient Greece’s bequest to Europe king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, various monuments donated
and the world.The first signs of occupation on the ‘sacred by sponsors of theatrical performances such as the Monu-
Ancient Athens by J Buhlmann rock’ of the Acropolis date back to the Neolithic period (2nd ment of Lysicrates, and the Odeion of Herodus Atticus, built
millennium BC). In Mycenaean times (1200-1100BC) it was in the 2nd century AD. With the predominance of Christianity,
ambitious urban planning projects ever. This has seen the the seat of the king, whose palace stood roughly where the especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the
Athens is known the world over for its ancient monuments Erechtheion was built many centuries later. After the 11th South Slope were reconsecrated as Christian monuments.
creation of 3-km long pedestrian walkway-archaeological
- and no visit to the city would be complete without seeing century BC until the end of Antiquity, it was home to the cult The East Slope is dominated by the cave of Aglauros, where
park in the centre of the densely inhabited modern city, with
its most iconic landmark, the Acropolis. Dating back to of Athena, patron goddess of the city that took her name. the Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the
whole areas (such as the East, West and North Slopes of
the 5th century BC, the Acropolis is made up of the Par- There, Athena was worshipped at majestic temples, brilliant sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the
the Acropolis, the Western Hills and the Library of Hadrian)
thenon, the Erechtheion, the Temple of Athena Nike buildings and a vast number of votive monuments. The most most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring
restored and now open to visitors.
and the Propylaea, and embodies the highest ideals of renowned were built in the second half of the 5th century of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the
In all, the pedestrianised site covers more than 1,000,000
Ancient Athens - harmony, beauty, proper measure, liberty, BC, when Athens took a lead among the ancient world’s city Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave
sq.m. The project won 3rd prize (Diploma) in the ‘Conser-
knowledge, virtuous competition and democracy. states, following important victories against the Persians sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the
vation of Cultural Landscapes’ category of the annual
The Acropolis and its surrounding area - including the and the establishment of Democracy. In the golden age that cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite
European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra
Acropolis Slopes, the Ancient Agora, the Areopagus, the followed, thought and art flourished, and an exceptional group and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas.
Awards in 2005. The pedestrianised zone formed by
Pnyx and the Hills of the Muses, the Roman Agora and of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman
Dionysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou streets
Library of Hadrian - are at the historical heart of the city.
Walking through them, it doesn’t take too much imagination
hosts cultural events, including an annual summer Book
Fair and art exhibitions. The Theatre of Herodus Atticus
Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias.
The most important monuments were built during that time: www.theotheracropolis.com
to picture Ancient Athens as it was back then. The monu- the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), the Erechtheion,
is also an important venue for theatrical, musical and The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than
ments are intrinsically linked with the birth of Democracy with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and
dance performances, giving visitors the opportunity to what we have learned to believe. The collective behind
and they symbolise a precious part of the cultural heritage the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens
experience a unique blend of ancient and modern civilisa- the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to intro-
of Greece and western civilisation ever since. Those ide- (421-406BC), the Propylaea - the monumental entrance to the
tion. Greeks are rightly proud of their heritage and they are duce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the
als have echoed down through the centuries and can still Acropolis designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) - and the small
keen to share it with the world, so special consideration sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our
be heard today. temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC). QOpen 08:30 - 15:00.
is providing visitors with information, with detailed signs, perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist
The Middle Ages and Ottoman Period, however, were try- Admission: €12, Concessions: €6 (4 day pass).
publications, leaflets, guides and audiovisual material in
ing times for the Acropolis and its surrounding sites. They experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on
English and Greek. Educational programmes are also avail-
suffered as a result of natural disasters like earthquakes, The Slopes of the Acropolis D6,D7,E7, The 70,000 the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”.
able to introduce children to Athens’ unique monuments
but more so at the hands of man. Some monuments were sq.m. archaeological site of the Slopes of the Acropolis
and raise awareness of the importance of respecting and
reused as palaces, churches, mosques and residential extends around the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis. After An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out
protecting the cultural heritage they represent.
areas. But perhaps the greatest damage occurred when the Acropolis itself, the Slopes were the most important before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like
Though Athens is generally not an easy city to get around
an explosion rocked the Acropolis during Morosini’s siege religious centre of ancient Athens. The sanctuary of Dio- to go a bit deeper than the surface.
for people with mobility problems, efforts have been made
in 1687, and (as many Greeks will tell you) as a result of nysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the
at the Acropolis with an arrangement of pathways with
Lord Elgin’s looting of the marbles (1801-1803). These
ramps at specific locations to enable such visitors to visit
events irreversibly altered the face of the Acropolis more
- or at least view - the most important monuments, and the
than anything else in its long history.
installation of a lift on the North Slope means that disabled
Exploration and excavation of the sites began a few years
visitors can now get a close-up view for the first time.
after the establishment of the Greek state in 1834, and
UNESCO proclaimed the Acropolis site a World Heritage
continued until about the middle of the 20th century.
Monument in 1987. The administration of the sites is
Important restoration programmes are now underway
funded by National Resources, while the majority of the
on several monuments. In 1997, the sites around the
restoration programmes and the project for the Unifica-
Acropolis were included in the project for the ‘Unification of
tion of the archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis
the Archaeological Sites of Athens’, one of the city’s most
is co-funded by the EU.
Three Graces / Dame Laura Knight / 1926, etching and drypoint on paper /
neoclassical building, this reputable private Museum houses foundation devoted to the historical development of the from 3/9/2010
a vast collection of finds from Prehistoric down to early twen- art of jewelry. It is located at the foot of the Acropolis, in a
tieth century Greece. It regularly hosts periodic thematic picturesque neoclassical building. Its permanent collection
National Archaeological Museum Patision (28th exhibitions that are generally highly regarded and attract comprises more than 4000 items of jewelry, designed by its
Woman as Muse
October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax 210 large numbers of visitors. Its permanent collection is vast - founder Ilias Lalaounis (1940-2000). Many items in its collec-
8213573, eam@culture.gr. The National Archaeologi- indeed, this is simultaneously an Archaeological, Byzantine tion have been inspired by the art of ancient and Byzantine
cal Museum is set in a characteristic hefty neoclassical and Folk Culture Museum - yet also very instructive, thanks Greece, Europe, America and Asia, as well as from nature and
building, designed by L. Lange and remodelled by P. Kalkos, to the well-organised exhibition structure. The café-restaurant from scientific discourse. It also provides educational facili-
H. Vlachos and E. Ziller (built 1866-1889), housing a extends to the roof-terrace and offers uninterrupted views of ties such as a library and jewelry-making workshop, as well
unique, recently refurbished, collection of ancient Greek
art and artefacts. Its more than 20,000 exhibits show-
case the development of Greek civilisation from Prehistory
the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The Museum shop also
provides an on-line sales service via the Internet. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
as seminars designed for students. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Wed 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
fee: €4, concessions: 2,30 €Free admission for members and
1900 - 1950
down to the late Roman era. There are vast collections Tue. Admission fee: €6. children under 10Free admission on Wednesdays after 15.00
of finds from the Neolithic, Bronze Age, Cycladic and & Saturday 9.00 - 11.00.
Mycenaean periods (Prehistoric Collection) including: Byzantine and Christian Museum Vasilissis Sofias
the famous gold mask attributed to Agamemnon, finds 22, tel. 210 7232178. Set in a beautiful building, surrounded Islamic Art Museum C4, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou
from the prehistoric settlement on the island of Thera by a serene courtyard -a leisurely outdoor stroll is a must- this 12, MThissio, tel. 210 3251311, fax 210 3225550,
(Santorini) - including wonderfully preserved colourful Museum offers visitors the opportunity to explore the way islamic_collection@benaki.gr, www.benaki.gr. This
wall-murals; the Sculpture Collection (7th-5th centu- of life, art, religious practices and customs of the Byzantine recently opened annex of the Benaki Museum, housed in an
ries BC) showcasing many internationally-acclaimed and Medieval periods in Greece. It is especially instructive elegant neoclassical building complex in the historic heart
masterpieces of the genre, some of which attributed as regards the intricate interconnections underlying the of Athens, near the ancient Kerameikos cemetery, displays
to Praxiteles’ workshop, the Near Eastern Antiquities symbolisms of the pagan -ancient- and early Christian periods, a fine collection of Islamic art from the Near East, Middle
Collection; as well as the Metallurgy and Vase & Minor revealing lesser-known facets of this transition. The Museum East, Far East and North Africa, from the 12th to the 19th THE COMPLETE SCULPTURES OF
Objects Collections. also houses a very important collection of Byzantine and post- centuries. It presents the evolution of Islamic art in relation
www.culture.gr
and modern conservation workshops. also regularly hosts interesting periodic exhibitions. Ameni- www.herakleidon.com / info@herakleidon-art.gr
ties include a children’s area, Museum shop and agreeable
Museum hours:
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:30-20:00 Admission fee café-restaurant in the cozy atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00,
Tues.-Sat. 13:00-21:00, Sun. 11:00-19:00, Monday Closed
€7, concessions €3. Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission
fee: €5, Saturdays: €2.5, 18-26: €1.
Museum of the City of Athens / Vouros-Eutaxias companies. The Museum Shop is well worth a visit if you’re
War Museum Foundation F4, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, MPanepistimio, looking for original and creative -though a tad expensive- gift The Art Foundation (TAF)
tel. 210 3231397, fax 210 3220765, http://www.ath- ideas, while the café-restaurant on the ground floor serves
enscitymuseum.gr/. This Museum, inaugurated in 1973 a good selection of dishes and lovely freshly-made salads.
by benefactors Lambros Eutaxias and his uncle Alexandros QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon,
Vouros, is housed in the stately mansion that was the resi- Tue.
dence of Otto, the first King of Athens and his wife Amalia,
from 1837 up to 1843, and its first floor is dedicated to their Numismatic Museum G4, Panepistimiou 12, MSyn-
memory. It seeks to present the modern history of the city tagma, tel. 210 3643774, fax 210 3635953, protocol@
of Athens, since it became capital of the nascent Hellenic nm.culture.gr, www.nma.gr. Its exhibits include more than
State in 1834, up to the present day. Among its collections 600,000 coins spanning a period from antiquity to the early
are works of art, items of furniture and household objects, as modern era. It is housed in the mansion of Heinrich Schli-
well as complete reconstructions of typical late 19th - early emann, discoverer of the Mycenaean treasure, which was
20th century living and sitting rooms of the Athenian aristo- designed by the famous architect Ernst Chiller during the late
cratic elite. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 19th century. Its amenities include conservation laboratories,
Closed Tue. Admission fee: €3, Concessions: €2. a well-equipped library, a hall that houses temporary exhibi-
War Museum I5, Rizari 2, MEvangelismos. Dedi- tions and a Museum shop. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed
cated to the history and practice of warfare, it holds an Museum of Traditional Musical Instruments E6, Mon. Admission fee: €3, concessions: €2.
important collection of war memorabilia from the Myce- Diogenous 1-3, Plaka, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3254119,
naean Period up to present-day Greece, with special focus fax 210 3250198. Housed in a simple neoclassical three- Postal and Philatelic Museum H7, Stadiou Square
on the Second World War, the War in Korea and the Cyprus storey building in a serene quarter of Plaka, this Museum 5 (Panathenaic Stadium), tel. 210 7519042, fax 210
War. The architecture of the building itself is very original, houses one of the foremost collections of traditional musical 7519279, postmuseum@elta-net.gr, http://www.
as it is one of the most representative examples of the instruments in Europe. Exhibits are accompanied by sound postalmuseum.gr/. Stamp lovers and collectors should not
avant-garde architectural movement in Athens during recordings, allowing you to experience the sound of each miss a visit to this Museum. Among its star exhibits are the
the 1950s. The historical fighter planes at the entrance instrument, as well as its musical combination with other printing plates of the first stamp in Greece, as well a collection
are also worth seeing. QOpen 09;00 - 14:00. Closed instruments. Information is provided on how the instruments of the first stamps in history to be connected with the Olympic
Mon. Free admission. are created. There is a large library for dedicated scholars in Games (namely, with the 1896 first modern Olympics that
the adjacent Research Centre for Ethnomusicology. Musical were held in Athens, at the adjacent Panathenaic Stadium).
recitals are sometimes held in the garden. A giftshop selling Its interesting exhibits narrate the postal and philatelic history
Museum of Contemporary Art Fratzi 14 (man- traditional music CDs and musical instruments is also avail- of modern Greece. There is a gift shop that sells stamps and
The Art Foundation D5, Normanou 5, MMonasti-
agement), tel. 210 9242111-2, fax 210 9245200, able. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00. Closed other collectors’ items. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat,
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3238757, (+30) 6988391684,
protocol@emst.gr. (as yet not housed at a permanent Mon. Free admission. Sun. Free admission.
www.theartfoundation.gr
address -the building was originally due for completion by
The Art Foundation, affectionately known as TAF, was
the end of 2009- but exhibitions take place in an array of National Glyptotheque Militar y Park, Goudi, Railway Museum Siokou 4, Sepolia, tel. 210 5246580. founded in 2008, inside a building that dates back to
various establishments as circumstances permit, mainly MKatechaki, tel. 210 7709855. This recently opened A haven for the railways aficionados, here you can feast your
1870 in parts. A classic design of the 19th Century
at the New Wing of the Athens Concert Hall).The Museum annex of the National Gallery holds its important Sculpture eyes on historic 19th century steam locomotives, historic
neo-classical style, the building hosts a magnificent,
of Contemporary Art, since it begun operating in 2000 Collection, including works by acclaimed Greek and inter- tram trains, as well as unique exhibits such as the royal car
large internal courtyard that is walled by 140 sqm of
-albeit its as yet nomadic existence- has organised some national artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. Interesting of King George I of Greece, or a wagon (the smoking carriage)
gallery space, with two additional buildings providing
very successful exhibitions, that have remained true to temporary exhibitions are frequently organised. QOpen that was part of the Sultan train of the Ottoman Empire. Also
four studios and deck with eight more. The renovated
its mission to showcase the transcultural, experimental/ 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue. Admission on display are related railway paraphernalia, such as tickets,
space is enough reason to visit.
exploratory and thought-provoking aspects of contemporary fee: €6, Concessions: €3. instruments and mechanics’ tools, as well as models and
international art. historic photographic archives. Bus 024 from Syntagma sq
At the same time, the work and dedication obviously
National Historical Museum F4, Stadiou 13, (Praktoreia stop) QOpen 9:00 - 13:00, Wed 9:00 - 13:00 &
required to have realised a vision to unite the past with
Museum of Greek Folk Art F6, Kydathinaion 17, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3237617. Housed in the imposing 17:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Free admission.
the present through the restoration of the structure
Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3229031, fax 210 historical building that was Greece’s first House of Parlia-
reflects the passion TAF has for the arts, and their pro-
3226979, melt@melt.culture.gr. From the 17th century to ment, this Museum tells the story of Greece since the fall Spyros Vassiliou Museum D7, Webster 5, MA- motion. The foundation nurtures collaboration between
the present, this Museum preserves, records, exhibits and of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, with special focus on the cropolis, tel. 210 9231502, fax 210 922 0193, atelier@
artists, curators and institutions through a constantly
presents the history and evolution of Greek folk art. Among War of Independence (1821-1829), through to the mid 19th spyrosvassiliou.org, www.spyrosvassiliou.org. A small
developing program of exhibitions that embrace young
its exhibits are embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes, century. The commanding statue of Theodoros Kolokotro- museum near the Acropolis dedicated to the life and work of
artists from Greece and abroad. The emphasis on solo
household items (such as the intricate ‘stamps’ used for nis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Independence, Greek artist Spyros Vassiliou. Paintings, woodcuts, posters
and group shows curated with topical sensitivity and a
embossing and decorating bread during traditional festivals), proudly greets visitors to the Museum. Among its invaluable and illustrations for book covers and records are among the
strong thematic premise creates a conceptual space
shadow-theatre puppets (the famous ‘Karaghiozis’), as well exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes, flags, works on display. QOpen , Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
where the viewer is exposed to an array of young art-
as silver, wood and stone carvings. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. paintings, religious icons, royal portraits and weapons. A 16:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
ists working today.
Closed Mon. Admission fee: €2, consessions: €1. giftshop is available. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
The National Gallery J5, Michalakopoulou 1, MEvan- Based on a premise that focuses on creating concep-
Museum of the Ancient Agora D5, Adrianou 24, New Benaki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos, gelismos, tel. 210 7235857, fax 210 7224889, www.
tual and creative dialogue between art and the public,
MThissio, tel. 210 3210185. Housed in the renovated tel. 210 3453111, www.benaki.gr. This recently opened nationalgallery.gr. Housing a collection of Greek art from
TAF nurtures a social aura further amplified by the
‘Stoa of Attalos’ (dating to 150BC) within the archaeological annex to the Benaki Museum is situated in an ex-industrial the sixteenth century to the present, mainly spanning the
crowded courtyard bar during unmissable opening
site of the Ancient Agora, it is a veritable Museum of the and underprivileged strip spanning Piraeus Str and extend- nineteenth and twentieth centuries, it includes some works
nights that fully utilise the courtyard bar as a space
History of Democracy, showcasing items linked with the ing to the Gazi area, which is fast transforming itself into a by Dominicos Theotocopoulos (El Greco), as well as works by
for discussion. A series of theatrical performances, live
development of Athenian public and commercial life, civic veritable hub of experimental and avant-garde artistic activ- seminal Greek artists such as Theophilos, Nikiforos Lytras,
music shows and experimental performances, as well
emancipation and democratic institutions, from antiquity ity. Housed in a tasteful building that gracefully combines Nikolaos Gyzis, Georgios Iakovidis, Nikolaos Kounelakis, Niko-
as a variety of other creative endeavours, further add
up until the birth of the modern Greek State. There are simplicity and an imposing aspect and provides a most laos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Yiannis Tsarouchis, Yiannis Mora-
to a holistic atmosphere of creativity. Only two years
a number of world-acclaimed ceramic items and statues welcome contrast to its rather neglected surroundings, lis, Nikos Eggonopoulos and Alekos Fassianos. The Gallery
old and already an established space, things can only
among its collections, such as the colossal statue of Apollon this Museum is well worth a visit if you wish to take in what frequently organises interesting temporary exhibitions. It also
get more creative.
Patroos (c. 330BC). The models of the Ancient Agora (com- Athens has to offer as far as modern and contemporary art houses conservation laboratories and a library, while plans
mercial centre), Acropolis and Pnyx (public meeting area) are exhibitions are concerned. As well as its regularly alternating for its expansion are underway, with no concrete timeframe
very illuminating as regards the city’s ancient topography. temporary exhibitions, it also periodically hosts alternative announced as yet. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Free admission.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:45, Mon 11:00 - 16:45. Admission fee: drama performances by independent unconventional theatre Closed Tue. Admission fee: €6.5, concessions: €3.
€4, concessions: €2.
the forecourt of the build- Observatory C6, Hill of Tzisdarakis Mosque E5, Monastiraki Square, MMona-
Historic Buildings ing. The Tomb is guarded the Nymphs, MThissio. stiraki. Overlooking Monastiraki Square, this was a historic
by the Presidential Guard This historic Observatory, Ottoman mosque constructed during the governorship of the
Arsakeion Megaron F3, Panepistimiou 47, MPanepis- (‘Evzones’) in traditional the first of its kind in Greece ‘voivode’ Tzisdarakis in Athens, in 1759. It now houses the
timio. Built by renowned 19th century architect Lysandros dress, whose intricately and the Balkans, was de- Museum of Greek Ceramic Art, while its Minaret has been
Kaftantzoglou, this imposing building is among the finest ex- orchestrated changing of signed by renowned archi- removed.
amples of modern Athenian architecture and hosts the Council the guard at the turn of the tect Theophile Hansen and
of State High Court. Adjacent to the Arsakeion is the pleasant hour attracts many visitors, was inaugurated in 1842. It Zappeion G6, Amalias &
Books’ Arcade, an ideal book-lovers’ haunt and anyone avid for who also take the opportu- has a unique cross-shaped Vas Olgas, MSyntagma.
a shelter during a rainy day. nity to feed the ubiquitous structure, that points to Built in 1874-1878 by ar-
flocks of pigeons. QOpen the four points of the hori- chitect von Hansen, on the
Athens City Hall Kotzia , Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. zon, while its resplendent order of Greek-Romanian
Square, MOmonia. An im- Free admission. golden dome can be seen gleaming in the Athens sky from national benefactors and
pressive neoclassical building quite a distance. cousins Zappas, this lofty
situated in a breathtaking Church of Aghioi Theodoroi F4, Aristeidou & Euripidou neoclassical structure origi-
cobblestone square, bris- St, MPanepistimio. Yet another structure built over the ruins Old House of Parlia- nally housed an exhibition
tling with pleasant cafés and of a much earlier temple. This was common practice during ment F4, Stadiou 13, hall. Surrounded by beauti-
busy shopping centres (the Byzantine ages, in an attempt to wipe out idolatry. And what MSyntagma. It was the ful gardens, that include a
picturesque Central Athens less costly method than appropriating the very materials the first residence of King Otto, pleasant coffee-shop and restaurant, as well as an array of
open-air meat market is right ancient building was made of, for “holy purposes”! According to while he awaited completion interesting sculptures, it is now used for international confer-
down the street). The square the inscription found on the west wall, this church dates back of the Royal Palace (now ences, commercial events, as well as for European heads of
also functions as an open-air to 1065 AD. The last known restoration was in 1840, following House of Parliament) and State meetings.
antiquities Museum and is damages it incurred during the Greek War of Independence. subsequently housed the
surrounded by beautiful neoclassical buildings from the turn of
the century (such as the National Bank or ‘Karatza Megaron’).
This is a cross-in-square construction, with 3 apses on the
east side. As is the case with most churches in Greece, the bell
Greek Parliament between
1843-1854 and 1875 -
Cemeteries
The City Hall also houses a valuable art collection. tower was added later. As for the imposing wall paintings, they 1932. In front of the building Commonwealth war
date to the 19th century. there stands an imposing equestrian bronze statue of General cemetery Poseidonos
Athens Metropolitan Cathedral Mitropoleos Sq, Theodoros Kolokotronis, among the leaders of the Greek War of Av, Alimos. 2,028 Com-
MMonastiraki, Syntagma. Completed in 1862 after 20 years Church of Panaghia Independence. Today, this stately neoclassical building houses monwealth servicemen of
of construction (the first stone was laid by King Otto and Queen Kapnikarea E5, Ermou the National Historical Museum (see museums). the Second World War are
Amalia), this large three-aisled domed basilica was consecrated & Kapnikareas St, MSyn- buried or commemorated
to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. Inside are the tombs of tagma, Monastiraki. Built Presidential Palace in this cemetery. 596 of
two Orthodox saints. In its pleasant courtyard there are the as usual on the ruins of an and Megaron Maxi- the burials are unidentified
statues of the last Byzantine Emperor (Saint Constantine XI ancient temple, which was mou H6, Irodou Attikou and there are also 74 men
‘the Martyr’) and a former Archbishop of Athens. It is currently dedicated to goddess Athe- Street, MSyntagma. The of the army of undivided India who died during the campaigns in
undergoing restoration, so large parts are not visible under na or Demeter, this miniscule imposing Presidential Palace, Greece and Crete during the Second World War. In the north-east
the scaffolding. church is commonly known which was formerly a Royal corner of the cemetery, a plot contains the graves of servicemen
as Kapnikarea. It is usually Residence, now hosts the and civilians who after serving in the Crimean War, died in Greece.
Athens Stock Exchange Sofokleous 10, MOmonia. Built surrounded by hundreds of Republic’s Presidency and is A Memorial within Phaleron War Cemetery commemorates nearly
in 1934 to host the nomadic stock market of those days, it is an people, either waiting for guarded by ‘evzones’ (Presi- 3,000 members of the land forces of the Commonwealth who
imposing neoclassical building that is well worth a detour from someone or having their portrait drawn and even having a dential Guards in traditional lost their lives during the campaigns in Greece and Crete in 1941
Kotzia Square. There is no activity in the building these days as breather in between shopping. In a poll, it would probably be costume). It was designed and 1944-1945, in the Dodecanese Islands in 1943-1945 and
trading went electronic a few years ago and the management voted the best loved church in Athens. As for its background, it by renowned architect Ernst in Yugoslavia in 1943-1945, and who have no known grave.
moved to a new building in 2007. Don’t miss the innovative was erected around 1050AD, but the small porch with the two Ziller in the 1870s. Nearby is the attractive neoclassical Megaron Tram stop: Pikrodafni
glass display on the ground, which exhibits a section of the columns was built closer to the end of the 12th century. It is Maximou, which functions as the Prime Minister’s office. Admis-
Ancient Athenian wall. cross-in-square shaped, with three apses on the east side and sion by invitation only. First cemetry of Athens
a narthex on the west. A chapel, dedicated to Aghia Varvara, G8, Anapafseos and Trivoni-
Bank Of Greece F4, was later added to the north side. As for the interior, which is Turkish Baths E6, anou, Mets, MAcropolis.
Panepistimiou 21, open to the public, there are paintings signed in 1955 by Greek Kyristou 8, Plaka, MSyn- Most famous Greeks are bur-
MPanepistimio, w w w. artist Photis Kontoglou. tagma. This is among one ied here. It is a museum in its
bankof gr e ece.gr. T h e of the very few surviving own right with every kind of
headquarters of the Central National Library - Ath- remnants of the Ottoman monument and ornamental
Bank of Greece. The building ens Academy - Athens period in Greece and the patterns, marble sculptures,
was designed by architects University F4, Panepisti- sole surviving traditional columns, sarcophagi and neo-
K. Papadakis and N. Zoum- miou 28-32, MPanepisti- bathhouse in Ath ens. classical temples, conveying the memorial art that flourished
poulidis and its foundations mio. These striking neo- This interesting 17th cen- during the 19th century along the rebirth of the new Greek
were laid in 1933. The official classical buildings were built tury bathhouse is open to state. (It was founded around 1837, when Athens was also
inauguration took place in 1938, under Governor Emmanouil by the Hansen brothers of visitors. QOpen 10:00 established as the capital city of the modern Greek state
Tsouderos. Copenhagen. The National - 14:30. Closed Mon. (1834). It spreads on the slope of the Ardittos hill, close to the
Library is reached via an Panathinaiko Stadium.
House of Parliament (Vouli) G5, Syntagma Square, impressive sculpted marble
MSyntagma, tel. 210 3707000, fax 210 3692170, info@ staircase, while the Athens
parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr. Overlooking Syntagma Academy is flanked by imposing statues of Apollo and Athena on
Square, it was originally the Royal Palace of King Otto and Queen either side, while the impressive frescoes at its entrance depict
Amalia, the first monarchs of Greece. Designed in the neoclas- the myth of Prometheus.
sical style by Friedrich von Gartner, the palace was completed
in 1843. It was used as the Royal Residence until 1924 and, National Theatre D2, Ag. Konstantinou 22, MOmonia.
since 1934, has housed the Greek Parliament. The Tomb of Housed in an impressive neoclassical building, with a grand
the Unknown Soldier, a monument in honour of the servicemen colonnaded façade and beautiful interior, it is the foremost
who fell in the struggle for Greek Independence, is located in establishment of the National Theatre of Greece.
Embassies Banks Business services Italian Cultural Institute Patission 47, MVictoria,
tel. 210 5242646, fax 210 5242714, www.iicatene.
Alpha Bank Stadiou 40, tel. 2103260000. esteri.it.
Adecco Kifisias 56, tel. 210 6930490, www.adecco.
Albania Vekiar eli 7, Filothei, tel. 210 ATE Bank Panepistimiou 23, tel. 210 3298911. gr. HR and recruitment business services
6876200.
Government
Australia Kifisias 1-3, tel. 210 8704000. Bank of Greece (Central Bank) Panepistimiou 21, Dowlings Solicitors Kifisou 19, Nea Kifisia, tel. 210 Parliament Vasilissis Sofias 2, tel. 210 3707000, info@
tel. 210 3201111, www.bankofgreece.gr. 8076575, www.dowlings.gr. English Solicitors operating parliament.gr, www.parliament.gr.
Austria Vas.Sofias 4, tel. 210 7257270. in Greece, specialising in Greek property, management and
Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, tel. 210 BNP Paribas Vasilissis Sofias 94, tel. 210 7468000. related taxation issues. Prime Minister Irodou Attikou 19, www.primemin-
3617886. ister.gr.
Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari St, Psyhiko, tel. Citibank Achaias 3, Kifisia, tel. 210 8186000. Fair Consulting F5, Lekka 23-25, MSyntagma, tel.
210 3232633, fax 210 3232664, info@fairconsulting.
210 6748106.
Eurobank Amalias 20, tel. 210 9555000. gr, www.fairconsulting.gr. Claims management, loss ap- Greek language courses
Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, tel. 210 praisals and insurance settlements negotiations. Athens Centre Archimidous 48, tel. 210 7012268,
7273400. HSBC Mesogion 109, tel. 210 6962100. info@athenscentre.gr, www.athenscentre.gr. A private
Cyprus Herodotou 16, tel. 210 7237883. FC&D Zisimopoulou 16, Psichiko, tel. 210 6930780, institute offering lessons in modern Greek and also business
Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psichiko, tel. 210 Mar f in Egnatia Bank Zef yr ou 56, tel. 210 www.fcd.gr. Franchise consultancy in the Greek and inter- Greek, Greek culture, theatre, poetry etc
6719701. 9304811. national markets.
University of Athens Modern Greek Language
Denmark Vas.Sofias 11, tel. 210 7256440. National Bank Eolou 86, tel. 210 3341000. Global Business Services Kifisias 90, tel. 210 Teaching Centre, University Campus, Ilissia, tel. 210
France Vas.Sofias 7, tel. 210 3391000. 8764876, www.gbs.gr. Furnished, equipped and serviced 7277672, nglt.info@nglt.uoa.gr, www.nglt.uoa.gr.
Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, tel. Piraeus Bank Amerikis 4, tel. 210 3335000. offices for as long as you need them. Modern Greek lessons organised by the University of Ath-
210 7285111. ens. All year, summer and intensive classes and reasonable
Hungary Karneadou 25, tel. 210 7256800. Postal Savings Bank Pesmazoglou 2-6, tel. 210 International Business Services Michalakopoulou tuition fees.
3704000. 29, tel. 210 7245541, www.ibs-ltd.gr. Translation, HR,
China Krinon 2A, Psichiko, tel. 210
6723282.
conference and consultancy services to traveling business-
International Schools
Ireland Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 Business connections men and foreign companies entering the Greek market
American Community Schools of Athens (ACS
7232771. Kantor Omirou & Vissarionos 1, tel. 210 7297500, Athens) Agias Paraskevis 129, Ano Halandri, tel. 210
Israel Marathonodromou 1, Psichiko, tel. 210 American-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Meso- www.kantor.gr. Business consultants with an international 6393200, fax 210 6390051, www.acs.gr.
gion 109, tel. 210 6993559, www.amcham.gr. presence.
6719530. Byron College 7 Filolaou St, Gargitos Geraka, tel. 210
Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, tel. 210 3617260. Athens Exchange Athinon 110, tel. 210 3366800, KPMG Stratigou Tombra 3, Agia Paraskevi, tel. 210 6047722, fax 210 6048542, www.byroncollege.gr.
Japan Papadiamanti 21, Psichiko, tel. 210 www.ase.gr. 6062100, www.kpmg.gr. Auditing, accounting, business
6709900. consultancy, the global way. Campion School Agias Ioulianis, Pallini, tel. 210
Netherlands Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry 6071700, fax 210 6071750, www.campion.edu.gr.
Akadimias 7-9, tel. 210 3604815, www.acci.gr. Manpower Xenofontos 9, tel. 210 3240200, www.
210 7254900. manpowerteam.gr. Recruitment services by the global Ellinogermaniki Agogi (German) Doukisis Plakentias
Nor way Vasilissis Sof ias 23, tel. 210 Athens Tourism & Economic Development Com- experts. 25, Halandri, tel. 210 6853220, fax 210 6821953, www.
7246173. pany G6, Xenofontos 7, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3253123, ellinogermaniki.gr.
Poland Chryssanthemon 22, Psichiko, tel. fax 210 3216653, info@atedco.gr. Sarantitis Law Firm Anagnostopoulou 9, tel. 210
210 6797700. 3670400, www.sarantitis.com. A legal firm specialising French-Greek School Trikalon & Chlois, Agia Paraske-
British Hellenic Chamber of Commerce Vasilissis in all areas of business law vi, tel. 210 6012704.
Romania Emmanouil Benaki 7, Psichiko, tel. Sofias 25, tel. 210 7210361, www.bhcc.gr.
210 6728875. SOL SA Fokionos Negri 3, tel. 210 8691100, www. International School of Athens (ISA) Xenias &
Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psichiko, tel. 210 General Secretariat for Investment and Develop- solae.gr. The largest Greek accounting & auditing firm with Artemidos, Kefalari, Kifissia, tel. 210 6233888, info@
6725235. ment Nikis 5-7, tel. 210 3332402, www.ggea.gr/ offices all over the country isa.edu.gr, www.isa.edu.gr
Serbia Vasilissis Sof ias 106, tel. 210 index_en.htm.
Italian School Mitsaki 18, tel. 210 2280338, www.
7774344. German-Hellenic Chamber of Commerce and Foreign Institutes scuolaitalianathene.edu.gr.
Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psichiko, tel. 210 Industry Dorileou 10-12, tel. 210 6419000, http://
6771980. griechenland.ahk.de/. British Council Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, Evange- Polish Community School Navarinou 19, Holargos,
South Africa Kifisias 60, Marousi, tel. 210 lismos, tel. 210 3692333, fax 210 3634769, www. tel. 210 6538204.
6106645. Hellenic-Dutch Association of Commerce and In- britishcouncil.gr.
dustry Kifisou 102, tel. 210 5384177, www.heda.gr. St Catherine’s British Embassy School Sofokli
Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, tel. 210 Cervantes Institute Skoufa 31, tel. 210 3634117, fax Venizelou 73, Kifisia, tel. 210 2829750, administrator@
9213123. Hellenic-Chinese Chamber Amerikis 10, tel. 210 210 3647233, dirate@cervantes.es. stcatherines.gr, www.stcatherines.gr.
Sweden Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, tel. 210 3629052, www.chinese-chamber.gr/.
7266100. French Institute Sina 31, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 Real estate
Switzerland Iasiou 2, tel. 210 7230364. Hellenic Center for Investment Mitropoleos 3, tel. 3398600, fax 210 3646873, www.ifa.gr.
210 3355700, www.elke.gr. Remax Hellas Adrianiou 42, Neo Psichiko, tel. 210
Turkey Vasileos Geor giou 8, tel. 210 Goethe Institute Omirou 15, MPanepistimio, tel. 210 6753417, info@remax.gr, www.remax.gr.
7263000. Hellenic Foreign Trade Board Marinou Antipa 86-88, 3661000, fax 210 3643518, gi@athen.goethe.org,
UK Ploutarhou 1, tel. 210 7272600. Ilioupoli, tel. 210 9982100, www.hepo.gr. www.goethe.de/athen.
USA Vasilissis Sofias 91, tel. 210 7212951-
Hellenic Ministy of Economy and Finance Nikis 5-7, Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, Kolonaki, €1 = $1.30
9. (July 28 2010)
tel. 210 3332000, www.mnec.gr/en. MPanepistimio, tel. 210 3680000, fax 210 3633174,
hau@hau.gr, www.hau.gr.
Hospitals
Public Accidents’ Hospitals
Asklipieio Voulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula, tel. 210
8958301.
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