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GOTS Approved
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Standard (GOTS 5.0)

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Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel

Editor in chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman SAVE ENERGY
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) save money
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)

Sub Editor
Akhi Akter
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Use ecofriendly energy saving
Technical Team

Setara Begum
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz
Rakibul Islam
Al Takbir Mahim

Editor & Publisher

A.S.M Tareq Amin
Effective pretreatment
Published on 3rd September 2018 by
Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. of your knit fabric
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217
Tel: +88 02 55093682
Email :
Web :

Printed by:
VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the

magazine are not necessarily those
of the publisher or the editor. We
have taken every effort to ensure
accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today
does not accept any liability for
claims made by advertisers or
contributors. The publisher reserves
the right to edit and publish any
editorial material supplied and does
not accept responsibility for loss or
damages of any unsolicited material
or contribution.
© All rights reserved to Amin &
Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018

Volume 11, Issue 08 (August 2018) For Better Tomorrow

Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
August 2018
Driving business with knowledge

On the Cover

Volume 11 | Issue 08 | BDT 150, USD 10

See advertisement at page 17 Safety

Jute viscose
How ZDHC and project’ will


sustainability can be Sustainable
Use of
change the
implemented in Compliance
(Social & Materials)
Resources history of
Bangladesh textile Management Bangladesh’s

industry jute industry

GmbH & Co. KG is a well know

Sustainable Chemicals and
Necessity of HRIS Reporting & Environmental Eco-friendly
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for human
resources paving the way
management for sustainable

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and specialty chemical manufacturer.
Their high performance auxiliaries are
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Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS 5.0)

August’ 18 | Volume 11 | Issue 08

Editorial Top Story Market Diversification

12 Rise in import duty on

Chinese goods opens
opportunity for...

Cover Story
30 Eco-friendly chemicals 40 Bangladesh
government increases
paving the way for cash incentives...

Factory Tales Top Story

Fiber Today-Viscose

14-18 How ZDHC and

sustainability can be
implemented in...

Exclusive Interview
32-34 Need joint effort
to combat viscose 45-48 Textile dyes supply
turmoil- fabric mills
suffer most
pollution, Dirty...

News and Analysis

36 ‘Sustainability Compact’
debate on capacity of
RCC, press Accord’s...

20-22 ‘Jute viscose project’

will change the history Investment Today
of Bangladesh’s jute
industry FDI trends in Bangladesh's textile industry (in $million)

52 Windy Group bags
H&M’s ‘Fast as Bullet’
award ...
421.48 421.68
400 378.93 366.44

Human Capital 300

Factory Tales-Textile Icon

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

37-38 FDI in Bangladesh textile

and apparel sector rise

24-26 Necessity of HRIS

for human resources
management (Part-1)

Market Analysis
Investment Model
55-56 Management
Bangladesh's share of the global
apparel market (in percent, Source: WTO)


6 commitment should
come first...


2 remains 2nd
1 largest RMG
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 exporter...

28-29 Joint venture of Huaren

Linen and Anwar Group
for linen fabric....

8 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08









Meet us in
Date: September 12-15, 2018

ZDHC Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)

Dhaka, Bangladesh

Stall No. 89/15


301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan
Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India
MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525
Content August’ 18 | Volume 11 | Issue 08

Spinning Today Factory Tales-Interview Textile Chemicals

58 Autoconer X6, flow into

the future of spinning

67-70 ‘Buyers should force all

the apparel producer
Factory Tales-Interview countries..... 84-86 Global textile chemical
market trend and its
growth factors
Textile People
Country Profile

76-77 Indonesia launched

“Making Indonesia

60 Proper supply chain

strategy is the base
71 Wuhan Textile University
becomes a hub of
higher education...
4.0” roadmap ...

of any business
Sustainability Today Innovation
Processing Today

72-73 ROSSARI organizes

ZDHC seminar to step
toward.... 88 Funxion Wear Inc. wins
NSF fund for innovation
in wearable smart
63-64 Knit Concern installed
Fong’s new patented
technology machine
Textile People

Textile World
Factory Tales Vietnam exported US

$178 million
worth apparels to
India in 2017

India exported
apparels worth US

$429 million
to Vietnam

0 100 200 300 400 500

74 ATET new committee

takes charge with new 92 India and Vietnam
target to raise bilateral

66 Northern Tosrifa Group

concludes its ‘Eye Care
hope trade value in apparel
and textile

Textile Today Question of the Month

50-51 How will ‘gas price hike’ affect the textile and apparel industry and how will
the industrialist manage additional cost?

90-91 How will RMG makers cope with the upcoming wage hike?

10 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08


Rise in import duty on Chinese

goods opens opportunity for
Bangladesh in Indian market
Indian government’s initiative million, up by 115% compared increase the cost of products. And
to protect local apparel to $129.81 million in the FY17, thus, Indian importer will move
manufacturers has opened a according to the Export Promotion to Bangladesh for sourcing as
new opportunity for Bangladesh Bureau (EPB) data. it offers less price than Chinese
readymade garment exporters in manufacturers,” Exporters
Of the total amount, Knitwear
the neighboring country. Thanks to Association of Bangladesh (EAB)
products earned $71.05 million,
the Indian government for raising President Abdus Salam Murshedy
which is 89.75% higher than the
import duty on clothing items said the Textile Today.
$37.44 in the same period a year
from China.
ago. Woven products earned $207.62 In tapping the opportunity, the
In July this year, the Indian million, up by 124.79%, compared to government has to put emphasis
government has doubled import $92.35 million a year ago. on improvement of transportation
duty on about 328 textile products of goods to the Indian market as
How to tap the opportunity
to 20%. The move is aimed at well as devise new policy support
reducing its imports of apparel As a non-traditional export for the exporters, said Salam, a
goods from China. destination, India is a very Former President of Bangladesh
potential market for Bangladesh. Garment Manufacturers and
Since Bangladesh enjoys duty and
It is logical that if India’s textile Exporters Association (BGMEA).
quota-free market access to Indian
markets, the rise in import duty of “Non-tariff barriers are a great
apparel goods from China would “Bangladesh’s apparel challenge for Bangladesh in
open an enormous opportunity exports to India is not penetrating Indian markets. So,
for Bangladesh, sector people and much higher but it the government should highly
trade analysts opined. is growing very fast. focus on removing the non-tariff
Imposing a new tax rate barriers,” Former Caretaker Advisor
However, the government has
on Chinese product AB Mirza Azizul Islam said.
to take steps in tapping the
will increase the cost
opportunity, while manufacturers On the other hand, Bangladeshi
of products. And thus,
have to move for identifying the manufacturers have to develop
Indian importer will
products to be added to the list of good relation with the global
move to Bangladesh
new tariff rate. retailers, who are opting to open
for sourcing as it offers
outlets in India, said Islam.
“India’s decision of doubling less price than Chinese
import tax on more than manufacturers,” He also urged the manufacturers
300 textile goods will be a to identify the exportable items,
boon for Bangladeshi apparel which has prospects to grow.
products import from China
makers as they enjoy duty-free
decreases, Bangladesh can grab In the last fiscal year, exports
market access to the country,”
the space. But it is not confirmed earnings from the apparel sector
Mohammed Hatim, Former Vice
whether India would meet their demand stood at $30.61 billion, which
President of Bangladesh Knitwear
through import or local production. is 8.76% higher compared to
Manufacturers and Exporter
previous year earnings. As per the
Association (BKMEA) said to the However, Bangladesh government
latest data, non-traditional export
Textile Today. is providing cash incentives
markets, also called new markets,
against the export to a new
India has the largest population contributed $4.76 billion or 15.26%
market. So, in order to diversify the
and a growing middle-income to total apparel exports of $30.61
export markets, the government
group. Grabbing a small share of billion in the last fiscal year.
should come up with policy
the market, definitely, our export to
support to take the advantage. The European Union (EU)
the Indian markets would see a sharp
contributed $19.62 billion or 64.12%,
rise in the current year, said Hatem. “Bangladesh’s apparel exports to
the US market, $5.35 billion or
India is not much higher but it is
In fiscal 2017-18, Bangladesh’s RMG 17.48%, and Canada $963.15 million,
growing very fast. Imposing a new
exports to India stood at $279.19 or 3.15% in the same period.
tax rate on Chinese product will

12 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

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Cover Story

How ZDHC and sustainability

can be implemented in
Bangladesh textile industry
For sustainability management and it’s installation, Bangladesh textile industry
needs to build efficient professionals. Compliance depertments should be
transformed into sustainability depertments.
Staff Correspondent

Figure 1: Textile Today and Engineering Resource International (ERI) Ltd. Launched a training program to implement Sustainability in
the textile and apparel industry.

Textile Industry is the third most gathered there where Engr.

polluting industry in the world. There are about 4 million Shafiqur Rahman, President,
Aiming to renovate from one chemical substances in the Institution of Textile Engineers
of the most polluting sectors world which are manufactured and Technologists (ITET), was
into a sustainable sector, some and used by us in various present as the chief guest.
organizations are working as an industries. About 80% of Among others, industry experts,
innovation hub. They are working chemicals are used but we international brands, and retailers’
hard to change the mindset are not aware of its impact on representatives were present
and culture of the industry. our health and mind. We are as special guests in the seminar
On 7 August, Textile Today, a using these chemicals still in including Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub
comprehensive international our textile, leather and other Nabi Khan, Pro Vice-Chancellor,
magazine for textile, apparel industries but unfortunately, BGMEA University of Fashion
and fashion industry organized a the chemicals are not & Technology; Engr. Akbar
seminar on “ZDHC & Sustainability regulated or legislated in our Hakim, Managing Director &
Implementation in Textile Industry” part of the world. CEO, Engineering Resources
on the occasion of their launching International (ERI) Ltd, Director,
ceremony of a training and Management System (SMS) in the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce &
capacity building program in factories and help the same to Industries; Engr. Ehsanul Karim
collaboration with Engineering get the social, environmental and Kaisar, Eminent Industry Expert,
Resources International (ERI) Ltd. economic benefit and make the Ex-Executive Director, Esquire Knit
industry sustainable in the long Composites Ltd, and Engr. Selim
The aim of the training program
run. Reza, Senior Vice President, the
is to make efficient professionals
Institution of Textile Engineers &
for the textile industry who will Many manufacturers, chemicals
Technologists (ITET), Bangladesh.
run the Sustainability Department suppliers, brand representative
and implement Sustainability and textile professionals Two-panel discussion programs

14 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Cover Story

were held in the seminar where most critical aspect

two keynote speakers spoke of transferring the
on ZDHC and sustainability ownership of the
implementation in textile industry. project or goals to
Prasad Pant, South Asia Director, the factories.
ZDHC Program, discussed details
He depicted that
about ‘ZDHC Implementation’ and
the ZDHC is not
Tareq Amin, Editor, and Publisher
really talking about
of Textile Today talked about
zero discharge. “We
‘Sustainability Implementation’.
are actually talking
ZDHC implementation session about sustainable
chemistry and
Prasad Pant addressed the
misconceptions of people about
prospectus. ZDHC
ZDHC, effects of hazardous
is now a legacy for
chemicals and the implementation
us but it is more of
process of ZDHC.
a holistic approach,
Introducing ZDHC Prasad Pant more as sustainable
said, “The ZDHC Foundation chemical safer
oversees implementation of the chemistry in the
ZDHC Program. Our mission is to production process.”
advance towards zero discharge of
Prasad Pant
hazardous chemicals in the textile,
briefly described
leather and footwear value chain
three pillars of
to improve the environment and
ZDHC those are
people’s well being.”
According to a U.N. data, one engagement,
child dies from the water- standard setting,
related disease every 15 seconds. and implementation
The textile industry is the 3rd & innovation
most polluting industry in the projects.
world after lather and paper.
“The ZDHC Program
The industry got a very bad or
is a collaboration
negative image as a polluting
of 24 signatory
industry. There are a lot of Figure 2: Prasad Pant, South Asia Director, ZDHC
brands, 59 value
factories around the world, Program, discussed details about ‘ZDHC Implementation’.
chain affiliates, and
especially in these producing zone,
Prasad Pant said, “There are 15 associates. There are a lot of
producing continence, maybe
about 4 million chemical group from India, who’s become
wastewater which is discharged
substances in the world which value chain affiliates”, Prasad
from a textile manufacturing plant
are manufactured and used by us pant gave these data and said,
is not treated enough to remove
in various industries. About 80% “Unfortunately, I can’t find a single
all these hazardous substances
of chemicals are used but we are textile manufacturer who has
from going to the river, he said.
not aware of its impact on our become a contributor to ZDHC
He displayed a photograph of from Bangladesh.”
health and mind. We are using
a person who is the son of an
these chemicals still in our textile, Now he is really looking for more
employee of a factory of DuPont in
leather and other industries but participation from the Bangladesh
the USA, DuPont has been making
unfortunately, the chemicals are textile manufacturers contributing
many years the Teflon finish, which
not regulated or legislated in our to ZDHC. Prasad Pant informed
is the very famous oil and water
part of the world.” that they have prepared a list
relevant finish. He was born with a
Eventually Greenpeace, an of chemical substances banned
lot of diseases, lots of problem in
international NGO has passed from intentional use in facilities
eye and face because his mother
7 years of detoxing the apparel that process textile materials
was exposed to TFC. TFC is known
value chain and has accomplished and trim parts in apparel and
as teratogenic.
many things of Zero Discharge to footwear. The ZDHC MRSL
“We are actually pushing these has established acceptable
Hazardous Chemicals roadmap.
hazardous chemicals to affect our concentration limits for substances
Before it touches its finishing line
next generation,” he explained. in chemical formulations used
by 2020, ZDHC has to achieve the

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 15

Cover Story

within manufacturing facilities. which millions

He ensured that for the first time, of peoples are
owners on the responsibility of directly dependent
chemical compliance is shifted to have some
the chemical industry. responsibilities
to the society
“We are commanding with the
and its’ elements.
ZDHC gateway tools that are
Stakeholders like
conforming to ZDHC’s MRSL
the governments,
supporting textile and leather
brands and buyers,
manufacturer to find safer
consumer right
alternatives and drive substitution
protectors, labor
of hazardous chemicals. So, we are
right protectors,
not reinventing any certification
community right
but we reviewed the existing 3rd
protectors, trade
party certification for chemical
formulations”, said Prasad.
Prasad Pant shared that ZDHC institutions and
InCheck reports are digitally the factories
signed by ZDHC, proving have their own
authenticity, and providing a perspective of
universal way for suppliers to sustainability.”
check and understand their level
He said, “4.5
of ZDHC MRSL conformance.
Figure 3: Tareq Amin, Editor, and Publisher of Textile million people
Moreover, suppliers will get clear Today, delivered his keynote speech about ‘Sustainability
Implementation’. working here
results and guidance to improve
that’s quite a
the quality of their chemical
big number. If we invest behind
inputs, assure their customers of
people, we can really generate
ZDHC MRSL conformance and
such an output may be quite
grow their business.
4.5 million people working a times higher than the other
To further enable the
here that’s quite a big capitals. For example, Turkey,
transformation of the sector Taiwan, and China are getting
number. If we invest behind
towards sustainable chemistry more value from a human in the
and related environmental people, we can really
textile section. This should be the
performance, the Implementation generate such an output transformation to invest behind
of HUB will be the vehicle to drive may be quite a times higher people.”
continuous improvements and than the other capitals. For
He also said, “This is the time
progress around ZDHC-centric
example, Turkey, Taiwan, and to transform this compliance
topics, Prasad Pant said.
China are getting more value department into the sustainability
Prasad Pant cleared about a from a human in the textile department. Whatever you do,
different number of hazardous you must have a sustainability
section. This should be the
groups and said that, “New department, and you must have
substance, new findings, new transformation to invest
separate responsible people
legislation are coming and behind people.
for sustainability. These people
the substances will be added should have tools, capacity, and
into the MRSL. ‘Zero’ is the authority to make a change. Then
Today delivered his keynote
aspirational goal, now it cannot the innovation cycle will move,” he
speech where he showed different
be zero. ZDHC’s backbone is input expressed.
sustainability challenges from
chemical management if the input
economic, environmental and Installing a Sustainability
chemical is free from harmful
social aspects. He also gave the Management System (SMS)
substances. Then ultimately, you
sustainability implementation way
do not worry about output.” This is the idea, putting things in
in his presentation.
one management system, saying
Sustainability implementation
Tareq Amin said, “In a world this Tareq Amin highlighted that
where people are struggling we have industrial engineering
On the sustainability every moment to sustain in the dept, compliance dept, people
implementation session, Tareq current status they are living, the to take care and so more. But
Amin, founder, and CEO of Textile fashion and apparel industry, on still, we need to have a clear

16 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Cover Story

Many companies are much better

than DBL but they are not being
able to report.
Tareq Amin hoped that all
sustainability department must
have a holistic target and gave
importance to providing capacity,
tools, authority. Then you can
expect them to come up with
extensive communication tools,
stories to share with brands and
final consumers also.
Panelist Samim Rahman, Director,
Southwest textile, said, “There are
around 18 private universities and
also public colleges or universities
for the textile education where
definition from the board level to we learn technical knowledge. But
the group level, what is the role, for the sustainable management,
what we want to achieve. This This is the time to it is important to give training to
has to be well defined and well
transform this compliance the professionals and mid-level
communicated. management.”
department into the
He stressed on the sustainability
sustainability department. “For the sustainable business or
management system. He sustainable turn over in the RMG
Whatever you do, you
added, “The team should sector in Bangladesh, first we
have the authority and the must have a sustainability
have set the ethical price for the
connectivity with the all other department, and you must customers. Unfair competition of
teams or management. The have separate responsible price should be stopped, he added.
chemical management, resource people for sustainability.
management, main production Another panelist Saiful Alam Mollik
These people should said, “As a consumer, we need to
team, production management
have tools, capacity, and change our behavior to give more
and the entire department will
be connected by sustainability authority to make a change. money for a product which has been
management system. Whether Then the innovation cycle manufactured in a sustainable way.”
we have trained people in the will move “For sustainability management
sustainability area to implement and installation, we need to build
sustainability. The team has to efficient professionals. In this
be capable and integrated with team, and sustainability regard, Textile Today already
the central management in the department will be able to get has taken initiatives through its
industry.” enough stories for communication ‘Textile Today Training’ module
and sustainability reporting. and today we have launched
He talked about the most Sadly only the top companies are
critical word ‘Communication’. certificate course on ‘Sustainability
doing sustainability reporting. In Management’ in collaboration with
Our companies do not have Bangladesh, DBL is doing this.
a communication policy; ERI,” said Tareq Amin.
communication understanding.
They are always behind a number
of machines, number of pieces.
This is the time to look at the
intangible, the soft things and
the human capital branding and
communication. So, this is not only
the brands who are directly selling
to the consumers. He hoped that
this is the time to make them
different from others.
So, this sustainability management
Figure 4: Audience from different stakeholders attended the program.
system, sustainability management

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Do you want to be a

Professional for Textile Industry

5 years Textile Industry will require more than

In next
2000 sustainability professionals.
Compliance departments will be transformed into Sustainability

Certificate on

for implementing sustainability management system (SMS) in textile industry.

To become certified sustainability manager participants have to successfully complete below

mentioned five training modules-

Training on

Sustainable Use Sustainable Safety Compliance Sustainability

of Resources Chemicals and Management (Social & Management
Environmental Materials) System
Management Management

Jointly Implemented by

Contact:  House-25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.  +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085 |

 h t t p : // t ra i n i n g .t ex t i l e t o d ay.c o m . b d
Exclusive Interview

Jute viscose
Huge domestic and global demand
for jute viscose fiber shows a great
prospect to produce it in Bangladesh

project’ will where the high-quality raw material is

available at low cost.

change the
Mirza Azam MP
State Minister for Textiles and Jute

history of
The Ministry of Textiles and Jute of
Bangladesh is responsible for the
promotion, development, and regulation

of the Bangladesh textile and apparel
industry. Recently in a conversation with
Bangladesh Textile Today Mirza Azam

jute industry
MP, State Minister for Jute and Textile,
opens up on several significant issues
related to the jute and textile industry,
including latest updates on jute viscose
project, BJMC activities etc. Here is the
illuminating part of the discussion for
Textile Today readers.

20 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Exclusive Interview

Textile Today: We know a minute and that means cotton import will whereas we can collect 65 to 70
of a document was signed be less than 200,000 bells each percent cellulose from our 3 to 4
by the Bangladesh Jute Mills year. months old jute plant!
Corporation (BJMC) and China’s
We are implementing this jute From wood and jute cellulose, we
Textile Industrial Corporation for
viscose production project can also make powder. The cost
foreign economic and Technical
because it is completely new in for producing per kg of powder
Corporation to take the jute
Bangladesh. We are demonstrating from jute is 2200 taka (around 25
viscose project onward. In
the way as any private company to 27 dollar) whereas the cost will
addition, an expert team from
will not dare to take the risk for be 1800 dollar if that is produced
Bangladesh visited some viscose
such a new project. The private from wood.
plants in China for an exposure to
companies will only come forward
carbon/charcoal-based viscose From cellulose we can produce
when they will see our success in
manufacturing process. Could you all sorts’ necessary things, we can
this project. I think many factories
please share us the update of the make medicine peel from our jute
will be set up to produce viscose
project? cellulose. Huge domestic markets,
in our country as the raw material
as well as international markets,
Mirza Azam MP: The project is is at arm’s reach at low cost and
are eagerly waiting to take all of
undergoing. We have already we also can export viscose after
those products. I think in future we
made a Development Project
have to be watchful over our jute
Proposal (DPP) and sent it to
cultivation lands.
the Planning Commission. The The project cost to build
commission suggested us to do Textile Today: A few days ago
a factory for producing Dr. Mubarak Ahmad claimed that
‘International Feasibility’ report on
it. We gave the responsibility to a
viscose is 120 billion due to the lack of 1.7 billion Tk,
Germany organization and we are taka, not 1 billion, plus the project polythene from Jute
is going to be shut down. Why is
expecting that we will get it within land and other costs
one month. Earlier we did the the government not taking proper
need to be included. actions to make the project
feasibility report locally.
Altogether the total cost successful?
Textile Today: BJMC said that
will be much higher. Mirza Azam MP: The project
the proposed plant will need a
minimum investment of ten billion After implementation spirit has come directly from our
taka. Is the government have the of the project, we can honorable Prime Minister, we all
mindset to invest in viscose and are doing these as he ordered
produce 40,000 tons of
finally when Bangladesh can able us to do these and not 1.7 billion
viscose every year and taka, even though the project
to produce viscose commercially?
that means cotton import required 700 billion taka, our
Mirza Azam MP: The word
will be less than 200,000 Prime Minister did it. Normally
‘viscose’ was alien to us. At
Ministry of Textile and Jute faces
first, I heard this word from our bells each year.
difficulties to get allocation for
honorable Prime Minister Sheikh
any project from Finance Ministry,
Hasina. She emphasized us to dig
but for the project related to jute,
ourselves in it. Then we looked
we did not face any difficulties.
into the matter and found that fulfilling our local demand. So that
Just a few days ago, the Executive
every year we import viscose from we have a great expectancy from
Committee of the National
abroad worth about 1 billion taka. the ‘jute viscose project’.
Economic Council (ECNEC)
Normally viscose is derived from Fascinating thing is that from jute approved around 4 billion taka for
the ‘cellulose’ from wood pulp, but cellulose we can make viscose, we a jute project of Jute Department.
it is also possible to make viscose can make jute polybag, we can We are reopening our three jute
fiber from ‘jute cellulose’, which make frame for eyeglasses and mills by our own funding and
is more reasonable and advanced much more. A few days ago, we within just one month 1.72 billion
quality. sent a team including Dr. Mubarak taka project has been approved
The project cost to build a factory Ahmad Khan in England to look for from ECNEC.
for producing viscose is 120 billion ‘jute polymer automatic machine’.
Our Prime Minister has already
taka, not 1 billion, plus land and Our team understood that to
approved the 5.19 billion taka
other costs need to be included. produce viscose from wood, it
project (Sheikh Hasina Specialized
Altogether the total cost will be needs to plant a tree and after 4 to
Jute and Textile Mill) to produce
much higher. After implementation 5 years later, they collect cellulose
denim fabric and raw materials of
of the project, we can produce from the tree. They can collect 30
various diversified products.
40,000 tons of viscose every year percent cellulose from the wood

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 21

Exclusive Interview

Textile Today: The government buying low-price jute by the high Textile Today: The government
is going to set up a specialized price. So why are we doing loss has a plan to establish a lot of
jute textile mill (Sheikh Hasina to buy jute at a high price? BJMC textile engineering college and
Specialized Jute and Textile is not a business organization; it textile institute in every district.
Mill) at a cost of Tk 5.19 billion is the government, who saves the However, we are seeing that many
although public sector textile farmers. When we buy jute by the textile engineers are remaining
and jute mills are counting high rate then the private sector unemployed in our country. In
losses every year. How will the forced to buy it with the same or this context, I want to ask you
government make the project nearest price. BJMC is providing that is there any necessity of a
profitable? a subsidy to the farmers from the textile institute in every district.
Agriculture Ministry.
Mirza Azam MP: Now we produce Mirza Azam MP: In our textile
jeans pant from imported cotton, For several reasons, the workers sector about 13000 to 15000
cost of per jeans pant is about are almost double than a necessity Indian, Sri Lankan employees
800 to 1200 taka, but in our ‘50% in a public mill, so that we have are working. Per employee gets
jute+50% cotton’, the cost will to pay them double. Without 50 thousand taka to 0.5 million
be maximum 300 to 400 taka. this, you know that the salary of taka salary each month. Why
There are huge domestic market workers is high in a public jute mill are they getting such amount,
as well as global markets for this than a private jute mill. However, in because they are efficient?
product. Every year we will profit a private mill, a worker has to work Many private universities are just
around 1.70 to 1.80 billion taka hard and more than a public mill, selling certificates. A real textile
and within 6 years our investment but we have to pay almost double engineer is not being unemployed
will come out. The government salary to our workers. Therefore, to rather he/she gets a job before
is not a business organization, help and support the farmers we finishing his/her education. We
we are just showing the path to are doing such loss. Once BJMC will establish a textile engineering
our businessmen as they will not was full of corruption, but we have college and textile institute in
take any risk for this experimental eliminated this corruption. every district, which will help to
project. build efficient manpower for the
We know that most of the public
sector, the sector earns 82 percent
As corruption is a common mills are of 50’s decade. One of
foreign currency.
scenario in the public sector that the major reasons for the loss of
is why public mills do loss and BJMC loss is the low productivity Bangladesh government
private sector do profit. When we of the jute mills, the productivity announced 50 billion USD target
will see that the private sector is is only 50%. Electricity bill is huge. for apparel export by 2021. To
acquiring this project, if necessary, If we had 90% productivity then fulfill this target we need more
we will shut down the project if we the electricity bill would be the efficient manpower. It does not
cannot profit. same but profit would be high. make sense that we will hire
We are giving a high salary, high efficient manpower from India and
Textile Today: According to
electricity bills but for lower Sri Lanka and spend our earned
a finance ministry provisional
productivity due to old machinery, money for them.
estimate, the BJMC loss was Tk
we are doing loss. However, we are
4.89 billion in the last fiscal year Bangladesh government has made
doing less loss than previous times
and every year the government 100 economic zones where many
as previous times the amount of
gives Tk 5 billion to Tk 10 billion textile factories will be set up and
losses were almost 10 to 12 billion,
in subsidies to the BJMC from it requires huge textile engineers.
which we have brought down by
the budget. How do you see all On the other hand, China is
4.89 billion.
of the matters? Why is BJMC leaving its textile business and to
facing loss? And how can BJMC Textile Today: Why are we using grab this opportunity we need
overcome this hurdle? old machinery that are the reason more textile engineers too.
for low productivity?
Mirza Azam MP: Actually BJMC Therefore, the textile engineering
is not doing any loss. There are Mirza Azam MP: We need latest college and textile institute we will
80 thousand employees under and modern machinery to increase set up will not make unemployed
BJMC and at least ten times of this our productivity and that is why engineers rather it will remove
people are related to this sector. we are bringing all types of new unemployment and decrease
40 million people of Bangladesh machinery. We are importing new foreign dependency on skilled
are involved with it. When we see machinery from our own fund of workers.
the jute marker is downward, we 1.72 billion taka. We are using all
fix jute price at a rate, which is latest and advanced machinery
profitable for farmers though to at Sheikh Hasina Specialized Jute
do this we are doing loss as we are and Textile Mill.

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

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Human Capital

Necessity of HRIS
for human resources
management (Part-1)
A good HRIS provides the capability of effective planning, controls HR costs,
and improves employee and managerial productivity.

Md. Kamruzzaman Sabuj

DISM, ITP, Director -HCM, Compliance & Admin, Windy Group

Human resources (HR) are the key

success factor of any organization
operating in the 21st century.
From the beginning to till today,
they have been playing a vital
role to boost up organizations’
competitive capabilities for
enjoying a competitive advantage
and superior profitability over
rivals. As today’s business
environment is more vulnerable
due to intense market
Figure 1: Every company needs a Human Resources Information System (HRIS) for
competition and higher employee human resources management. (Credit: placementindia)
empowerment. Organizations
have been using information through a software application software, usually found:
technology for achieving installed in a computer.
a. HR plan and cost budget
efficiency in human resource Nevertheless, a good number of
management. The study found companies are using ms excel to b. Recruitment management
that HRIS emerged in the low- prepare Payroll and benefits. Few
c.  Training-development and
cost era (1980-90) and the roles are showing their interest on ERP
mployee skill tracking
of HR professionals transformed (Enterprise Resources Planning)
from traditional administrative to where HRM is integrated with core d.  Performance-based appraisal
more strategic roles during the functional modules like planning, management
high-tech era (from 1990 onward). production, supply chain, sales,
In Bangladesh, we have got into accounts, commercial etc. e.  Shift, attendance and leave
this concept in 2000 and onward management
An HRIS generally should provide
where it was started as ‘Personnel f.  Compensation and benefit
the capability to do plan more
Management’. With the advent management
effectively, control and manage HR
of time, we also acquired the
costs; achieve improved efficiency g.  Management intelligence and
knowledge and competency in the
and quality in HR decision analytics
HRIS system.
making; and improve employee
In Bangladesh we still believe, and managerial productivity and h.  Disciplinary management and
HRIS (Human Resources effectiveness. records
Information System) is only to i. Personal asset management
Few most essential HR functions,
manage attendance, leave, and
as well as modules of a good HRIS j. Payroll and final settlement
shift upto generating Payroll

24 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Human Capital

In the contemporary scenario of modernization 1. Web-based A to Z HR process

and globalization, organizations heavily rely upon
technological advancement and innovation in the “Accessible On The Go!” By now, your HR system
field of Information Technology (IT). Advancements should be web or cloud-based and accessible on
in the field of IT has opened up newer avenues the go, anywhere in the world, different office, at an
for the organizations and provided a competitive airport or train station, or simply when working from
advantage by using innovative and customized home. This is a non-negotiable system feature offers
solutions. It has become an integral part of the every process of HR operation, payroll, benefits,
organizational functioning and all the departments training, recruiting and compliance issues.
depend on integrated systems for organizing, If you make the HRIS real IP based then you can
storing, retrieving and reviewing data. Today internet access the HRIS from anywhere through that you
and automation have facilitated accessibility, can materialize the concept of office from home or
reliability, and accuracy of information; improved flexible work practice.
organizational effectiveness and provided a
leadership edge by applying technology in various 2. Paperless office
The field of Human Resource Management has been going paperless! Seems to be the statement of our
continuously evolving and the HR in today’s scenario time. Going paperless sounds like a great idea. But
is playing a strategic role than merely a support one of the great unfulfilled promises of technology
system and without HRIS an HR cannot play a good is the paperless office. If we look back to our usage
strategic role. of paper in our daily life, the shocking scenario
comes out that we just waste a huge number of rims.
Features of a good HRIS Can anyone just imagine, to prepare this number of
rims of paper how many trees we have destroyed?
1. Web-based A to Z process
However, the great gain to going paperless is,
2. Paperless office collaborating, synchronizing, and sharing our
3. Best HR practices documents, along with being able to search through
4. Access control and Security them and easily file them without having to buy a
new file cabinet, backing up all of our documents
5. Policy and implementation
easily and automatically and it is only possible
6. Budget control through HRIS.
7. Job analysis
3. Best HR practice
8. Individual JD and KPI setting
9. Performance-based appraisal A good HRIS can offer best HR practices of the
industry. It can accommodate and regulate the legal
10. Employee self-service
and local best practices while implemented. There
11. Auto notification are a few software vendors who have USP i.e. they
12. Employees disciplinary record are not selling software rather offer a solution for
13. Dynamism and Customization “Industry Best Practices”. An HRIS application is a
big tool for implementing well-accepted good rules
14. Online Approvals
and regulation integrated with other HR function of
15. HR matrix and analytics the system.
16. E-Learning
4. Access control and security
17. E-Recruitment
18. Attendance and leave management Through HRIS, we can control the access level wise
and ensure the system security. For example, If we
19. Compensation and final settlement
do not want to share salary and other confidential
20. User-friendly implementation information with a particular group of employees
21.  atabase, integration and data
D (like below assistant Manager) we can do so through
redundancy HRIS by this we can ensure the security & access
22. Easy implementation control.
23. Affordable price 5. Policy implementation

Ten Features of a good HRIS have been discussed Where policy is absent in black and white, a good
here and rest of the 13 features will be discussed in HRIS can be the substitute for that. All the policies
the next part to make it understandable for any HR can be adopted and implemented in an HRIS system.
professional irrespective of industry, type or size of In an organization, we have lots of policy but it is
the organization. tough to monitor all the things that are going on in

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 25

Human Capital

accordance with policy. But if we set this policy at An organization’s success depends on its employee’s
HRIS, we can easily implement these policies. For performance. Hence, evaluation of the employee’s
example, an organization has a policy like-employees performance is essential. But unfortunately,
who has completed six months will be entitled for employees are either undervalued or overvalued
certain benefits and if we set this policy at HRIS, then just because of the absence of the right tools. In
HRIS will always allow this certain benefits to those this case, HRIS provide the right tool to evaluate the
who meet this criterion. performance of the employees and ensure satisfied,
6. HR Planning and Budget Control motivated and productive employees. When a
180/360 degree appraisal is hard to practice in a
A right manpower planning is an essential part of manual system, a good HRIS can help to accomplish
at ease. Through HRIS organizations can conduct the
online appraisal.

10. Employee self-service

sustainability for any organization especially any

labor-intensive factories like RMG, Re-rolling or Jute
mills. A good HRIS would help any management
to ensure right kind of skilled people at the
right quantity. It can ensure competency-based
recruitment through a right headcount of people
with the right skill within the overhead budget.
Since organizations always want to utilize their
7. Job analysis

Before selecting an employee organizations need to employees time properly, so it would be time
fix the job specification and job description of that wasting for a company if the employee went to HR
particular designation, moreover organizations need and ask for a few services like –pay slip, attendance
to analyze whether the position is required or not. information, tax statement, leave, loan, movement
Analyzing the job, time and frequency through HRIS issue and so on. Through employee self-service, an
organization can assess whether the organization employee can get these services at their desk which
needs the position or not. is time-saving and improve the quality of services.

8. Individual JD & KPI setting Your system should enable employees to log in
securely, update and maintain their details on the
Each individual has different KPI, target, and
system and they should be able to submit absences,
achievement so it is a tough job to do it manually.
holiday requests, and self-appraisal data directly
Once if we set the KPI and target on HRIS then it
to the system. Modern HR software should be
automatically recalls the performance data from the
automating these time consuming manual processes.
performance record table and does the necessary
calculation to show the performance. (To be continued…)

9. Performance-based appraisal management

26 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

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Investment Model

Joint venture of Huaren Linen and Anwar

Group for linen fabric dyeing and finishing
in Bangladesh
Staff Correspondent

Chinese company Huaren Linen Bangladeshi company as experts spinning, weaving, and processing
Group is going to invest in and technology are not available units. They are doing two types of
Bangladesh jointly with Anwar here, however, when a Bangladeshi weaving: terry towels and kitchen
Group, one of the veteran and company gets an offer from an towels, also the fashion related
oldest company of Bangladesh, for expert like Huaren Linen Group, fabrics. In the processing house,
linen fabric dyeing and finishing. it is good for both sides. And they have yarn dyeing, fabric
When different Chinese companies the joint project of Huaren Linen dyeing, and terry towels.
are confused on investing in Group and Anwar group is going
Recently China government has
Bangladesh for fabric dyeing to be a very good model, which
decided not to increase textile
and finishing, as there are some could be followed by others to
business and last year they shut
difficulties in a new project like solve the prevailing problems.
down a lot of dyeing factories.
setting up new product range,
Huaren Linen Group, starting Therefore, Chinese businessmen
process range etc., Huaren
from Harbin city, the hometown want to shift the business from
Linen Group is showing them a
of China’s modern linen industry, China to Bangladesh and in this
path. For huge fabric demand in
is a large vertically-setup linen continuation, Huaren Linen Group
Bangladesh’s apparel industry,
supplier including spinning, yarn is beginning dyeing production in
the second largest exporters in
dyeing, greige goods weaving Bangladesh from the end of this year
the world, and reducing lead-time
and finishing for yarn dyed fabric. or from the beginning of next year.
for Bangladeshi manufacturers
Since 2006, Huaren Linen Group
many Chinese companies want “We needed to find our best
is doing linen fabric business with
to expand their business in partner in Bangladesh. For the
Bangladesh. They were exporting
Bangladesh. Who are thinking last two years, I was working on
fabric from China to Bangladesh.
and trying to invest in Bangladesh this issue. Finally, 8 months back
They started their Bangladesh
can come up with any existing we signed a contract with Hossain
office in 2015.
company in Bangladesh to invest Mehmood, MD of Anwar group
like Huaren Linen Group. Anwar Group is one of the and we are on the way to finalize
renowned groups in Bangladesh everything,” said Mir Shahed
To set up fabric dyeing and
started in 1834. They have Chowdhury, Managing Director of
finishing unit is tough for a

Figure 1: Managing Derictor of Anwar Group, Hossain Mehmood & Mir Shahed Chowdhury, Managing Derictor of Huaren Linen Group, Bangladesh.

28 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Investment Model

people how to dye the linen fabric

properly. Besides these, we will
share with them all the recipes we
have and all kind of information
regarding chemical. We will share
with them what kinds of chemicals
are needed to be used for linen
fabric dyeing. We will give them
technical support in all possible
ways,” Mir Shahed Chowdhury said
to Textile Today while explaining
how Huaren Linen Group will be
supporting Anwar Group.
Figure 2: Hossain Mehmood, MD of Anwar Group shared his views with Tareq Amin, The amount of fabric Bangladesh
Founder & CEO, Bangladesh Textile Today.
is importing from China is around
Huaren Linen Group Bangladesh, garments. When Huaren Linen 4-5 million meters and the yearly
said to Textile Today reporter. Group will start all the projects requirement for the linen fabric is
together, nobody will be able to compete around 15 million yards per year.
“When we will start dyeing in
with us,” Said Shahed Chowdhury. “Actually, we do not have the
Bangladesh, we can give support
to our customer in terms of lead- “Before signing the agreement, target to capture the entire market
time. Every buyer is asking for we have also worked out to requirement at this moment.
short lead-time. We can deliver understand the feasibilities However, initially, we will try to
to the factories within 30 days whether the project is a viable produce 15 million meters per
after the booking. Therefore, project or not. We found that year. For the invest, I want to say
within 40 days they can deliver this is a very much viable project. that we have already our dyeing
the garments,” said Mir Shahed We do not have the technology. project. Few technologies will
Chowdhury while explaining how the Garment manufacturers are come from China. I think investment
dyeing mill will help their customers. importing the fabric from different for this is going to be around 30
sources. If they can get the fabric million dollars,” he continued.
The market of linen fabric in
from the local market, they will The project could be helpful
Bangladesh is increasing rapidly.
definitely source it from here. On for transformation because
Every year Bangladesh has
the other hand, they will also be it is building a supply chain,
requirement of more than 15
able to satisfy their customers making the process easier for the
million meters of linen fabric.
for the short lead-time also for garment factories. It is very much
However, until now, linen is
the assurance of the quality. appreciated that Huaren Linen
not produced in Bangladesh.
Our main target was to grab and Anwar group is producing
Because for the dyeing of linen
this opportunity,” said Hossain something that is going to
fabric special machines are
Mehmood, MD of Anwar Group. serve the demand not only in
required, those are unavailable in
Bangladesh. Huaren Linen Group “First of all, we should give Bangladesh but also in the region.
and Anwar group have come to a technical support to Anwar Group. It is a good learning for the other
decision that they will buy some Our technical team will be in the companies also. Once more, it is
machines for dyeing. factory. They will teach the local another value-added products.

“Definitely every plan should have

a TNA and Huaren Linen Group
had also the same. Huaren Linen
Group had a plan to set up an
office in Bangladesh at first. We
had a plan for dyeing. After that,
we will go for spinning, weaving
and garmenting of the linen fabric
in Bangladesh. We have already
started our office in Bangladesh a
few years back. The dyeing project
of linen fabric is also going to be
started within a very short time
with Anwar Group. After that, we
Figure 3: Anwar Yarn Dyeing Ltd. A concern of Anwar Group.
will start spinning, weaving and

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 29

To p S t o r y

Eco-friendly chemicals paving the way

for sustainable textile industry
The introduction of white technology and inclination toward eco-friendly chemicals has revolutionized the textile chemical market.

Swati Tamhankar, Jr Executive-Digital Marketing, Allied Analytics LLP

From different kinds of salts to Recently, Kripa Varanasi, an

complex antifoaming agents, associate professor at the
the textile industry uses Massachusetts Institute of
unlimited chemicals. The recent Technology (MIT) published a
development of the apparel paper in the scientific journal
industry owing to the rise in Advanced Functional Materials,
consumer demand and growth reporting a new type of coating
in population has boosted the that possesses potential to
demand for textile chemicals. Figure: Eco-friendly chemicals should be
used for sustainable textile industry. Credit: replace the traditional harmful
Moreover, the emergence of the abhichem chemicals that are often used in
environmental friendly chemical is easy to control in any chemical manufacturing water-repellent
has made several novel chemicals reaction. The biggest advantage textiles. According to Varanasi,
that can substitute traditional that enzymes offer is that they several textile companies claim to
chemicals. According to Allied are 100 percent biodegradable offer water-resistant properties but
Market Research, the textile chemical and eliminate the need for other fail to meet the standards. Thus,
market is expected to reach $27.560 chemicals and toxic substances Varanasi and his team decided
billion by the end of 2022. that are required in a textile processing. to develop a new method that
White biotechnology in textile This makes them the sustainable uses less harmful chemicals than
dyeing market alternative for various chemicals. perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS)
and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
Dyes used in the textile industry Another part of white
for protecting clothes from the liquid.
are mainly to color the raw biotechnology is bio-dyes or
material and thus the product. natural dyes. The conventional The traditional chemicals can
Dyes can be either natural or dyeing process is greatly affected remain in the environment as well
synthetic and usually combined by the introduction of bio-dyes. as the human body, which the
with water. Therefore, there is a The traditional dye may harm U.S. government has restricted
humongous need for water in the workers in the industry and their usage. Varanasi used a
textile industry. In addition, the wearers owing to toxic substances. method called as iCVD or initiated
insoluble dyes remain in the water, To overcome this problem, bio- chemical vapor deposition.
increasing wastewater. To eliminate dyes can be used, which are Using this method, the scientists
this problem, researchers found cost-effective and eco-friendly. applied durable, short fluorinated
some gases that can act as soluble The majority of natural dyes are polymers that are stabilized with
and can replace water entirely. manufactured from a plant source a cross-linking agent to several
With the use of high temperature such as roots, berries, bark, and fabrics such as cotton, wool, and
and pressure, chemical dyes can be wood. Such solutions changed the silk. These shorter polymers do
dissolved in such gases. The most way of traditional processing in not pose a great threat as their
effective and versatile gas to replace the textile industry. longer counterpart and do not
water is carbon dioxide (CO2). remain in the environment or in
Eco-friendly chemicals: the new
the human body. The leader of the
Apart from gases, white way towards sustainable chemicals
study believes that his study has a
biotechnology has come to an aid Lately, dyeing and finishing lot of potential and application in
to reduce the water consumption processes have piqued attention future and numerous industries can
and green gas effect. White owing to the emerging concept of benefit from this technology.
biotechnology can be used in eco-friendly and more sustainable
developing environmentally A large number of basic and
garments and textile. There are
friendly applications. The most auxiliary chemicals are used in
several types of research about
well-known example is using textile processing that are toxic
how the toxic chemicals used in
enzymes to remove stains from in nature. Such alternatives can
textiles and the waste from its
fabrics in textile wet processing. reduce the consumption as well as
factories has led to skin diseases
Enzymes act as catalysts and boost the research to develop new,
and respiratory issues among
reduce consumption of excess innovative biodegradable green
users and workers. This gave impetus
water. Moreover, it offers optimum chemicals.
to the increasing demand for eco-
temperature and PH and hence friendly chemicals and sustainable dyes.

30 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

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Fiber To d a y - V i s c o s e

Need joint effort to combat viscose

pollution, Dirty Fashion report reveals
‘Dirty Fashion report’ reveals that most of the fashion retailers are not aware of clean viscose production. It
requires a joint effort to combat viscose pollution.

M M Uddin

Fashion industry practices have it is made from

yet again come into the limelight plant matter and is
in a new report titled ‘Dirty biodegradable.
Fashion report’, which points
After setting up
to only diverse improvement in
a roadmap for
ensuring transparent, dirt free
sustainable viscose
viscose production to root out
sourcing only seven
viscose pollution.
brands have so far
Viscose is a most commonly signed up and started
used textile fiber across the engaging with their
world, which is a great cause to supply chains on
damage the environment if it is Figure 1: ‘Dirty Fashion report’ reveals that most of the fashion how to guard against
not produced responsibly. The retailers are not aware of clean viscose production. Credit: Reuters the risk of viscose-
report has identified that viscose related pollution.
manufacturers and suppliers from production processes Inditex, ASOS, Marks & Spencer,
were dumping toxic wastewater affecting surrounding water H&M, Tesco, Esprit, and C&A were
in lakes and waterways, destroying and soils. Some of the poorest named as the first signatories to
subsistence agriculture and fisheries. performing brands featured in the the group.
In response to requests from report’s rankings include Burberry,
Other leading retailers such as
clothing brands and retailers IKEA, Missgu ided, Gucci, and
Arcadia Group have engaged
for guidance on tackling the Prada, as well as supermarkets
with the campaign, but are yet to
environmental and social impacts such as Sainsbury’s, Lidl,
announce policies relating to viscose,
of viscose production in February Morrisons, and Asda, all of which
as well as provide any transparency
2018, the Changing Markets were contacted for comment by
about their supply chain.
Foundation launched a Roadmap BusinessGreen.
While brands such as Patagonia,
towards responsible viscose and The report also includes the
Eileen Fisher and Stella McCartney
modal fiber manufacturing. The results of a new YouGov poll
– which commissioned the first
Roadmap provides a blueprint for commissioned by the NGO that
ever Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
brands, retailers, and producers to found 58 percent of shoppers
for man-made cellulose fiber
move towards responsible viscose would stop buying clothes from
(MMCF) used in production –
manufacturing, whereby chemical a fashion brand if they found out
were praised for approaches to
inputs are captured and reused it was using materials that could
viscose sourcing, transparency and
instead of being released into the damage the environment.
production practices, other brands
It follows an investigation earlier have been heavily criticized.
Based on over a year’s worth of this year by the NGO, which
Asda, Boohoo, Burberry, Ikea, Lidl
investigations and research, the alleged a number of well-known
and Sainsbury’s are among the 23
latest report found that while there UK fashion retailers were sourcing
brands and retailers ranked in the
has been bold leadership from their viscose fabric from two
“red zone” for poor performances
some retailers, a large part of the factories in Indonesia and India,
by the Foundation. Edie reached
industry has still not demonstrated which have been accused of
out to all of these brands for
willingness to engage with the polluting their local environments
issue or set out their policies on and harming human health with
viscose production. toxic chemicals. Changing Markets Foundation
Campaign Manager Natasha
A number of major producers Changing Markets Foundation
Hurley said that after many years
have been accused of failing to argues that if managed properly,
of complacency from fashion
follow adequate health and safety viscose has the potential to be
brands and producers with regard
processes, leading to pollution a “largely sustainable fiber” as
to the environmental impacts of

32 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

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P romot i n g S u st ai n ab i l i t y
Fiber To d a y - V i s c o s e

viscose manufacturing, the tide is the Collaboration

finally beginning to turn towards for the Sustainable

more responsible production The first signatories to the group Development of Viscose

methods. and is developing a
Esprit 10-year roadmap for
“But the unlikely bedfellows Inditex
improvement, the report
of luxury brands and discount
retailers continue to ignore an
issue that is blighting people’s co AS Overall, though, many
Tes OS
lives and the environment. “What’s viscose producers are

more, most luxury fashion brands not doing enough to

are failing to publicly disclose ensure their operations

supply chain information. This is are not damaging the
unacceptable. It’s time for them environment, the report
Figure 3: In the roadmap for sustainable viscose
to wake up to consumers’ desire sourcing, only seven brands have so far signed up.
concludes, adding that
for more transparency and more on top of concerns about
sustainable fashion,” Natasha sourcing, production practices, chemical pollution the sector is
Hurley added. and transparency. also largely reliant on carbon-
In the YouGov poll findings, 30 intensive energy.
Tesco’s Senior Sustainability
Manager for its F&F Clothing line, percent of the 2,000 adults asked According to the report, policy-
Carmen Chan, urged that we need said they expected luxury brands makers should also play a role
to collaborate with our peers, to be sustainable, compared to by putting into place ambitious
suppliers, NGOs, and governments just 13 percent who expected regulations. The European
to help transform the textile and the same of low-cost brands and Commission must review its EU
clothing industry. supermarkets. Ecolabel in 2020 and bring it in
However, while the report suggests line with the parameters set out in
Another signatory, M&S, has said
“much progress remains to be EU BAT. The European Parliament
it will not source from any man-
made”, it does also highlight has also called on the European
made cellulosic fiber suppliers
some small successes since the Commission to propose legislation
which do not transition to a
previous report from the group, for a due diligence system based
closed-loop manufacturing system
which it said indicates the “tide is on the OECD guidelines on
by 2023-25, explaining that such
beginning to turn in favor of more Responsible Supply Chains in the
a system should aim to recycle
responsible viscose production.” Garment and Footwear Sector.
the majority of chemicals used
France has already adopted such
during the production and prevent The two largest viscose producers a law, and it will be interesting
the process from negatively in the world, Austria’s Lenzing to observe how retailers and
impacting on human health and and India’s ABG, have both now investors change their practices
the environment. committed to making all their sites in light of increased knowledge of
Other fashion brands such as Stella meet EU Ecolabel requirements risks and liabilities across garment
McCartney, Eileen Fisher, and for production, and in China, the supply chains.
Patagonia are also praised in the country’s 10 largest producers
have joined together to form Given the global nature of
report for their work on viscose
the fashion industry, tackling
environmental and social violations
in its supply chains requires an
approach that goes beyond national
borders and voluntary industry-led
initiatives, said the report.
As everyone in the fashion industry
concedes, ensuring transparent,
ethical and environmentally
sustainable supply chains is an
extremely complex and ongoing
challenge. It could overcome only
by working together across the
industry that such widespread
problems can be solved and
Figure 2: Viscose is derived from the ‘cellulose’ or wood pulp from fast-growing,
regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine.
properly regulated.

34 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

News and Analysis

‘Sustainability Compact’ debate on

capacity of RCC, press Accord’s extension
Desk Report

While the government of would jeopardize the brands’

Bangladesh reiterating not to ability to source from a safe
extend the tenure of Accord industry and may make them
and Alliance, Accord is eager to reconsider sourcing decisions and
extend their safety operations made since the last high-level review the reputational risk of
in Bangladesh RMG factories until meeting held in Dhaka in May 2017. Bangladesh as a sourcing country.
Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) is Progress on safety compliance was A solution towards the 2018
not ready to operate the responsibility. particularly noted. At the same Transition Accord (2018 TA) was
Mujibul Haque Chunnu, time, it was widely acknowledged achieved in October 2017 through
State Minister for Labor and by different stakeholders and meetings of the Government of
Employment, recently said, “The various representatives of the Bangladesh (GoB), the BGMEA,
government will not extend the Compact partner governments and brand and union signatory
tenure of Accord and Alliance as that the Government of representatives of the 2018 TA.
the Remediation Coordination Bangladesh’ RCC is at its earliest Through this solution, Accord
Cell (RCC) is capable of running stages of development, and that the operations would continue in
inspection and monitoring of Bangladesh beyond May 2018 and
workplace safety in garment factories.” However, representatives a Transition Monitoring Committee;
from EU, US and Canadian with representatives of the
However, representatives from EU,
governments, Member of GoB, BGMEA, Accord signatory
US and Canadian governments,
European Parliament, ILO and brands and unions, and the ILO,
Member of European Parliament,
Accord signatory brands and would be established to assess
ILO and Accord signatory brands
unions urged the Government the preparedness of the national
and unions urged the Government
of Bangladesh (GoB) to remediation structure to sustainably
of Bangladesh (GoB) to ensure the
ensure the Accord operations take over the work of the Accord.
Accord operations in Bangladesh
continue as they are thinking that in Bangladesh continue as The Accord signatories and
RCC is not capable to drive the they are thinking that RCC especially the brands called on
safety operation. They urged it on is not capable to drive the the EU, US, Canada, and the ILO
27 July by a press statement. safety operation. They urged to request from their Bangladesh
it on 27 July by a press partners in the Sustainability
According to the statement,
statement. Compact to express the support of
on 25 June 2018, the Compact
the GoB for the previously agreed
partners (Government of
arrangements to establish this
Bangladesh, Government of Accord would need to continue its
Transition Monitoring Committee.
Canada, Government of the US, operations in Bangladesh until the
Only when this assessment body
the European Commission, and the RCC is deemed ready.
deems the RCC ready to take
International Labour Organization-
During the meeting, the following over responsibilities for the safety
ILO) met in Brussels to discuss
position was taken by the brand of workers based on previously
progress made under the Compact
representatives on behalf of more agreed objective criteria should the
and what remains to be done. This
than 180 brands, which have Accord should wind down its activities.
was the 4th time since the signing
signed the 2018 Transition Accord.
of the Compact in July 2013 that such Quoting the United States
assessment of progress took place. It is in the crucial interest of the Ambassador to Bangladesh, Marcia
signatories to the Accord that Bloom Bernicat, the statement
Unions, employers, manufacturers,
the work of remediation, which said, “to maintain a collaborative
apparel retailers, brands and civil
started in May 2013, is completed approach to the Accord as it
society organizations were invited
and a sustainable and adequate continues to assess when – not if
to attend the afternoon part of
national regulatory structure is – it can transition to a Bangladesh-
the Compact meeting, which
implemented by the Bangladesh led program. It is critical to the
addressed inter alia the safety of
Government to regulate workplace safety of millions of workers and
the textile industry in Bangladesh.
safety in the Bangladeshi garment the productivity of factories that
The statement said that the industry. The premature shut that assessment should be made
Compact partners acknowledged down of the Accord; leaving fairly and objectively and without
that some progress has been workers in unsafe circumstances, artificial time deadlines.”

36 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

FDI in Bangladesh textile and

apparel sector rise 15.70%
Staff Correspondent

Bangladesh’s textile and apparel FDI trends in Bangladesh's textile industry (in $million)
sector has seen a sharp rise
in Foreign Direct Investment
(FDI) in the last year, thanks to
government initiatives to entertain 421.48 421.68
foreign investors. 378.93 366.44
According to Bangladesh Bank
(BB) data, in the calendar 2017,
Bangladesh’s textile and apparel 300
sector has received a foreign
investment of $421.68 million,
which is 15.70% higher compared 200
to $364.44 million in the year 2016.
However, the overall net inflows 100
of foreign direct investment in the
country declined by 8.42% to $2.15
billion in 2017 from $2.33 billion a 0
year ago.
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Figure: FDI trends in Bangladesh textile and apparel industry from 2015
South Korea has made the largest
to 2017.
investment of $103 million in the
country’s textile sector, while Hong Textile Today. investment from foreign countries.
Kong $66.13 million and the United Though overall FDI has seen a
Bangladesh has to import a
Kingdom (UK) $42 million. slight decline last year, we are
huge amount of woven fabrics to
hopeful to see a jump in the
Why investment sees a jump meet the local demands. Foreign
current year as Bangladesh is
investment in the textile sector will
Since, Bangladesh is the second ready with better infrastructure
help Bangladesh building a strong
largest exporters of apparel and SEZs, he added.
backward linkage for the woven
products in the world after
sector, said Salam, also Managing Bangladesh government has
China, there is a huge investment
Director of Envoy Textile Limited. taken steps to establish 100
opportunity in the textile and
Special Economic Zones (SEZs).
garment industry. On top of that, new investment
On the other hand, it has given
will create jobs for Bangladeshi
The available workforce at a importance to ease the registration
people, a crying need to reduce
reasonable wage, duty-free market process for the foreign as well as
the unemployment rate and
access in major export destination, the local investors through one-
meeting the government vision of
preferential location in the heart stop service, Commerce Minister
a developing country, he added.
of the Asia-Pacific region and Tofail Ahmed said to Textile Today.
government policy support acted “As a government organization,
As a result, foreign investors have
as a catalyst to attract foreign Bangladesh Investment
become more interested to invest
investment in the textile and apparel Development Authority (BIDA) is
here. In the year to come, the
industry, stakeholders opined. providing all-out service through
investment in the textile sector
one-stop service. While the
“Since, the RMG sector is growing from the foreign investors will see a
digitized system has made the
very fast in Bangladesh, foreign sharp rise as the SEZs are becoming
process very easy, which pushed
investors chose the country ready for investment, he added.
the foreign investment in the
as an investment destination
textile sector up,” BIDA Executive Textile industry needs FDI to
in the textile sector,” Abdus
Chairman Kazi M Aminul Islam said. produce value-added products
Salam Murshedy, a Former
President of Bangladesh Garment As per the direction of Prime Bangladesh is producing
Manufacturers and Exporters Minister Sheikh Hasina, we are mostly basic clothing items. In
Association (BGMEA) said the working very hard to attract moving forward in the value-

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 37

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

added product, Bangladesh industry, said Islam. However, we did not pay heed to
needs investment in high-tech the oppose by the apparel makers,
Joint venture investment in the
manufacturing to exchange if there is no lack of document as
apparel sector can be a tool to
experience of the developed country. per Bangladeshi laws, he added.
move for the value-added product,
“We can allow foreign investment as we lack technical expertise As we are the second in the export
where there is a need such as in and technology in this area, the market, we should think about
high tech-fabrics manufacturing economist added. the value-added product, as it
and technology-based garment will help to remain competitive in
However, the local manufacturers
manufacturing to make value- the market. Investment in textile
are opposing FDI as they think
added products, former financial and apparel industry will help to
that the foreign investment will
advisor to caretaker government produce high-quality fabrics as the
grab a larger market share.
AB Mirza Azizul Islam said to foreign investors have expertise in
Textile Today. “We welcome FDI in any sector this area, said a local manufacturer.
from any country in any sector.
However, Bangladesh government Recently, Chinese company Huaren
But there is a little unwillingness
has to set the policy to allow Linen Group is going to invest in
from the RMG manufacturers in
investment based in the country’s Bangladesh jointly with Anwar
entertaining investment in the
trade policy and global market Group, one of the veterans and the
sector,” seeking anonymity an
situation. On the other hand, the oldest company of Bangladesh, to
official of the Bangladesh Investment
government has kept in mind set up dyeing mill.
Development Authority (BIDA).
about the protection of local

Apparel exports make a good start in new fiscal

Staff Correspondent
Apparel sector, the lifeline to welcome the buyers with
of Bangladesh economy, has compliance and environment-
registered a 21.72% growth to over $3 friendly factory, in the current
billion in export earnings in July, the fiscal, export earnings will see
first month of the current fiscal year. share rise in growth, said Faruque.
According to Export Promotion He urged the government to
Bureau (EPB) released on 13 Figure: Apparel exports make a good start increase the efficiency of ports so
in the fiscal year 2018-2019, registered a
August, in July Bangladesh has 21.72% growth. that Bangladesh can handle a large
earned $3.01 billion, up by 21.72%, country as well as exporters. This number of work orders effectively.
which was $2.47 billion in the indicates that Bangladesh now has Stakeholders urged the
same period last year. enough capacity to attract buyers government to ensure smooth
As per the latest data, of the and executes bulk amount of work supply of gas and electricity
total amount, Knitwear products orders, Exporters Association for uninterrupted production.
fetched $1.53 billion, which is of Bangladesh (EAB) President They also called for effective
20.88% higher than the $1.26 Abdus Salam Murshedy said the measures for better infrastructural
billion in the same period a year Textile Today. development as it will help to
ago. Woven products earned $1.50 On the other hand, in July reduce lead-time.
billion, up by 22.59%, compared to Bangladesh executed more In the FY 18, Bangladesh’s export
$1.21 billion a year ago. shipment, which was delayed due earnings from the RMG sector
Talking to Textile Today, exporters to vacation on the occasion of Eid- stood at $30.61 billion, posting
credited safety improvement at ul-Fitr in June, which expedited 8.76% growth.
workplace and stability in the the export growth, said Salam, a
Former President of Bangladesh Of the total amount, Knitwear
country. They also expressed hope
Garment Manufacturers and products earned $15.18 billion,
of reaching the export target
Exporters Association (BGMEA). which is 10.40% higher than the
as Bangladesh is now a safe
$13.76 in the same period a year
workplace and moving towards Due to safety improvement in the ago. Woven products earned $15.42
value-added products. RMG sector, buyers’ confidence billion, up by 7.18%, compared to
With a 6.78% growth projection, on Bangladesh has increased. As a $14.39 billion a year ago.
Bangladesh government hast set result, work orders have shown a
continuous rise in last few months, Meanwhile, Bangladesh’s export
exports target of $32.69 billion for
BGMEA senior vice president earnings rose by 5.8% to $36.66
the apparel sector.
Faruque Hassan said. billion in the last fiscal year, while
The growth is very inspiring for the the country earned $34.65 billion
As manufacturers are ready from exports in FY17.

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Market Diversification

Bangladesh government
increases cash incentives
for apparel sector to new
Staff Correspondent

In a bid to explore new export

destinations, the Bangladesh
government has taken the decision
to increase cash incentives for
apparel exporters to 4% from 3%
to new markets.
Addressing a press conference,
Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed
made the announcement on 8
August in Dhaka. He was talking
about the export target for the
financial year 2018-19.
In a meeting held on Wednesday,
presided over by Finance Ministry Figure: Bangladesh government has taken the decision to increase cash incentives to 4%
from 3% to new markets responding to the call of manufacturers.
AMA Muhith, the Ministry of
Finance has taken the decision exploring new export destinations our export to non-traditional
to increase the cash incentives and enlarge the export earnings of market, said Rahman.
responding to the call of the country significantly,” said the
In the financial year 2017-18,
manufacturers. minister.
Bangladesh earned $4.67 billion
The new rate of incentives will As of last fiscal year, new export exporting apparel products to non-
be effective for the current fiscal. markets known as non-traditional traditional markets, which is 9.92%
After getting instruction from the markets contributed $4.67 billion higher compared to $4.24 billion in
Finance Ministry, Bangladesh Bank or 15.26% to the total apparel the FY17.
soon will issue a circular in this exports of $30.61 billion in the last
As a new market, Japan is a
regard. fiscal year. While, the European
potential market for Bangladeshi
The move is aimed to encourage Union (EU) contributed $19.62
apparel goods. In the last fiscal,
apparel manufacturers to billion or 64.12%, $5.35 billion or
RMG exports to Japan have seen
encourage exports to new 17.48% and Canada 963.15 million
a 13.73% rise to 846.73 million
markets, which would be effective or 3.15% in the same period.
compared to previous year
for the financial year 2018-19. “It is a good initiative for the earnings of $744.48 million.
“Non-traditional export market sector and I hope it will help
While, in FY18 Bangladesh’s RMG
is very crucial for Bangladesh to Bangladesh to tap the opportunity
exports to India rose to $279.19
reduce export dependence on in non-traditional export
million, up by 115% compared to
traditional markets. In increasing markets,” Bangladesh Garment
$129.81 million in the FY17.
exports volume, we need to Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA) President Non-traditional or new export
explore more export destinations.
Md Siddiqur Rahman said. Rahman markets include China, Russia,
And to encourage exporters
was present at the media briefing Japan, India, South Africa,
to explore new markets, the
as a stakeholder representative. Australia, Turkey, Brazil, Chile,
government has increased cash
Mexico, South Korea, Malaysia and
incentives to 4 percent from 3 Japan, China, and India are very
New Zealand for the Bangladeshi
percent,” said Tofail Ahmed. potential markets for Bangladesh.
garment sector.
“I think, it would encourage And the incentives will increase

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Market Analysis

Bangladesh remains 2nd largest

RMG exporter accounting 6.5
percent market share
Desk Report

Bangladesh remains the second Bangladesh's share of the global have a bright future in
largest apparel exporter in the apparel market (in percent, Source: WTO) apparel business but
world, after China, according to we need to do a lot
the World Trade Organization more homework. As
(WTO) data. The data said much as 40 percent
that Bangladesh held on to its 5 of Bangladesh’s
status in the world in FY 2017-18, garment exports
accounting for 6.5 percent share 4 comprise value-
of the market. added items, which
3 fetch more money for
In 2016, Bangladesh’s share of
exporters,” he added.
the global apparel market was 2
6.4 percent. In 2017, Bangladesh He explained
exported garment items worth $29 1 about one factor
billion. China remained the largest that consolidated
apparel supplier globally; the value 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Bangladesh’s position
of exported clothing items from in global apparel
China last year was $158 billion. trade is its bulk order for value-
added items in recent times.
Vietnam exported $27 billion
worth of garment products in 2017 In 2016, Bangladesh’s “The buyers are coming here
with its 5.9 percent market share, share of the global apparel with the bulk of work orders
the WTO data said. India, with its as the country’s image has
market was 6.4 percent. In
garment exports of $18 billion in now brightened after the near-
2017, ranked fourth. Turkey came 2017, Bangladesh exported completion of factory remediation
fifth with a 3.3 percent market garment items worth $29 as per the recommendations
share. billion. China remained the by the Accord and Alliance,” he
The WTO data also showed that in largest apparel supplier continued.
2017 the top 10 exporting nations’ globally; the value of Almost all top clothing retailers
share was 87.8 percent and the exported clothing items like H&M, Walmart, JC Penney,
value was $457 billion. from China last year was Inditex, Zara, Gap, M&S, Uniqlo,
C&A, Tesco, Hugo Boss and Adidas
Siddiqur Rahman, President $158 billion.
have been souring billions worth
of Bangladesh Garment
of garment items from Bangladesh
Manufacturers and Exporters
every year.
Association (BGMEA), said, “We
Rising garment shipments to new
Country Global market share in% Export earnings in $billion and emerging Asian markets such
China 34.4 158 as India, China, and Japan have also
Bangladesh 6.5 29 contributed to the higher earnings.

Vietnam 5.9 27 Finally, Rahman urged for

improvements in roads and
India 4.1 18
highways, airport and seaport in
Turkey 3.3 15
Chittagong for faster movement
Indonesia 1.8 8 of goods and reducing the cost of
Cambodia 1.6 7 doing business.

42 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

‘Management commitment
should come first to make
textile industry more Mohim Hassan
sustainable’ CEO of Northern Tosrifa Group
F a c t o r y Ta l e s -To p S t o r y

Textile dyes supply

turmoil- fabric mills
suffer most
Bangladesh consumes textile dyes and chemicals worth of about 800 million
USD every year. Which is a significant amount, and so the country should play a
potential role in dyestuffs and chemicals manufacturing industry. Mechanisms
should be devised to get more control in the supply chain.

Textile Today Research

Manufacturing of dyestuffs has All together the supply chain suffering. With a trend where
been halted and disturbed for have been disturbed and the dyestuff manufacturers are being
several times through several most affected counterpart were more centralized and the industry
months in major manufacturing as always the fabric mills located is getting more monopolized, the
countries. Strict implementation of in countries like Bangladesh. fabric mills are becoming victims.
some regulations in China affected As whole scenario was going Introduction of control systems
the supply of raw materials for unpredictable and nobody gave like Zero Discharge to Hazardous
dyes manufacturing to major any precautions, the mills had to Chemicals (ZDHC) and ‘Bluesign’
global manufacturers located in source dyes in much high price has made things even difficult.
India, Korea and even in China. As and many within the system Recently in a Textile Today
textile fabric mills had to continue played the situation making seminar participants from fabric
to process fabrics for global advantage. mills mentioned that everybody
brands (who hardly considers always showing finger to fabric
backend supply difficulties), Industry insiders opined that such mills for complying MRSL, RSL and
demand of dyes was strong and so incidents have been happening delivery commitments, whether
price continue to rise. Fabric mills occasionally through last 4-5 the input suppliers like dyestuff
didn’t receive dyes consistently years. And most of the time the manufacturers are not supporting
even after paying higher amount. fabric manufacturers have been by supplying right products

Figure: Recently Bangladesh has been increasing its fabric manufacturing capacity significantly. A great number of new state of the art
dyeing machines like this one in the picture (in Knit Concern Ltd.) has been installed.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 45

Find your unique positioning
An initiative of Textile Today
and stand head-high...
The Team

Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir

Head of Business Development

Rakibul Islam
Soma Akter
Nepal Nath
Naznin Wahed
Business Development ‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding
Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and
explore positives and significant stories from sites of the
Akhi Akter
industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video
SN Abdullah
Sub Editor
contents will be developed to highlight & promote best
practices; product and process development stories; social and
environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel
Rahbar Hossain manufacturing companies.
Editorial Coordinator

Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Engagement & Communication
Major Factory Tales Services are
Nizam Uddin Shipan
Head of Design and Branding Brand Strategy Making Brand Manual Making
(Identity & Positioning) (Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand
Materials and Websites)

Best Practice Story Building Photography & Videography

Moshfikur Rahman (Marketing/Branding Story) (Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Video & Graphic Editing

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Graphic Design

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Amenities of Factory Tales
Cinematographer  Identical position in the industry
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Executive, Web & IT
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Editorial Contributions
25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748
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F a c t o r y Ta l e s -To p S t o r y

uninterruptedly. Fabric mills urged shares of M. Dohmen (of which

Key companies operational in
resolution of such supply chain 49% had been acquired in 2014), a
the market
uncertainties very soon and these multinational group specializing in
Archroma (Switzerland),
should not be repeated in future. the production of textile dyes and
However as the structure of the Kiri Industries (India), chemicals. In July 2015, Archroma
industry not getting any better Huntsman Corporation (US), acquired the textile chemicals
shape, vulnerability is expected to Lanxess (Germany), and business of BASF. The acquisition
continue. is expected to consolidate
Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co
Archroma’s leading position in
Demand of dyestuffs continues to (China) etc.
supplying chemicals dyes to the
rise: global textile industry.
These players have adopted
Amid such sever uncertainties, various strategies, such as mergers
Kiri Industries Ltd. is a diversified
a report published by quantified & acquisitions and new product
chemical company based out of
B2B market research platform launches, to achieve growth in
Gujarat, India. It manufactures
MarketsandMarkets™ has said the textile dyes market. Mergers &
and exports dyes and dyes
that the textile dyes market is acquisitions was the key strategy
intermediates in various forms
projected to grow from USD 7.34 adopted by the major players
such as powder, granular, and
billion in 2017 to USD 9.82 billion standardized spray. It is also
by 2022, at a CAGR of 6 percent a supplier of basic chemicals
between 2017 and 2022. Recently in a Textile Today
in the Indian market and
seminar participants from
overseas, serving the needs of
The report also predicted that fabric mills mentioned that
many industrial sectors such as
Asia Pacific (APAC) is expected everybody always showing
automotive, textile, and leather.
to dominate the global textile finger to fabric mills for
It manages its business across
dyes market during the forecast complying MRSL, RSL and
50 countries and 7 continents
period. Low labor cost and delivery commitments,
through its 2 geographic business
growing demand owing to the whether the input suppliers
segments, namely, India and
large population in APAC countries like dyestuff manufacturers
outside India. The company
are some of the factors that are not supporting by
is highly focused on organic
are driving the growth of the supplying right products
textile dyes market. Textile Today uninterruptedly. Fabric mills
published an analysis on the urged resolution of such For instance, in April 2016, DyStar
dyestuff market in June 2018 issue. supply chain uncertainties (subsidiary of Kiri Industries)
The report titled ‘Factors affecting very soon and these should introduced ‘Cadira Reactive’
textile dyestuffs market’. not be repeated in future. – a new module in DyStar’s
However as the structure of Resource Efficiency program at
The MarketsandMarkets™ report the industry not getting any Interdye Shanghai. This concept
also said, policies mandating better shape, vulnerability considerably reduces water,
the use of environment-friendly is expected to continue. waste, and energy consumption.
and low Volatile Organic
The concept is expected to help
Compounds (VOC) products
brands, retailers, and production
have led to innovation in the to achieve growth in the textile partners to reduce the carbon
textile dyes industry. In addition, dyes market between 2014 and footprint of their textile goods.
the strengthening economy of 2017. This strategy accounted
countries such as China and India for a share of 50% of all growth Based on dye type, the disperse
is attracting new investments strategies adopted by key market dye segment is expected to
in the region. These factors are players. This strategy has helped witness the highest growth during
driving the growth of the textile dyes companies enhance their product the forecast period. This is due to
market in APAC, said the report. portfolio and expand global presence. its use in multiple types of fibers
such as synthetic hydrophobic
Major players in dyestuff market: The report explained Archroma fibers, polyester, and acetate
as an actively involved company fibers.
Some of the major players in
in acquiring emerging companies
the textile dyes market include
in the textile dyes market space. The price and supply turmoil of
Archroma (Switzerland), Kiri
For instance, during 2015–2017, textile dyes
Industries (India), Huntsman
it completed the acquisition of
Corporation (US), Lanxess The price of textile dyes has been
two companies. In September
(Germany), and Zhejiang rising for quite a long time and
2017, Archroma announced the
Longsheng Group Co (China). it will go up more specially for
acquisition of additional 26%

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 47

F a c t o r y Ta l e s -To p S t o r y

the disperse dyes. In very recent of Zhejiang Province in East China. already. The dyeing processes
times price of reactive dyes is The team announced to investigate used to color the garment are
getting to ease however the from August 11th to September opting for low-VOC technologies
supply uncertainties continue 11th in Zhejiang province, means in and eco-friendly procedures and
to remain. According to the following days many factories are fabric mills have to comply with
MarketsandMarkets™ report, facing to be limited to produce or MRSL and RSLs. Consumers are
based on dye type, the disperse stop production or close the door. also willing to pay a higher price
dye segment is estimated to be A notice from a major dyestuff for such products. But all these
the largest dye type segment of manufacturer to a Bangladesh aspects are hitting mostly to the
the textile dyes market in 2017, in customer mentioned that “All small fabric manufacturers.
terms of both value and volume. items like Red 167, Green 9, Red
The demand for disperse dye 343, Yellow 114, Orange 29 etc won’t Being one of the major textile
continues to be driven by its use in be produced during the time”. fabric manufacturers in the world
many types fibers such as nylon, Bangladesh has to craft policies
polyester, acetate, and triacetate. to save its industry from such
Being one of the major turmoil. When the global super
Mentioning a news report Wang textile fabric manufacturers powers like the US and China is
Rui, Senior Marketing Specialist in the world Bangladesh becoming more protectionists,
at YaBang (a dyes, pigments, has to craft policies to it is clear that countries like
pharmaceuticals and intermediates save its industry from such Bangladesh also have to be
supplier from China), informed turmoil. When the global protectionist. Instead of believing
that every October 1st week, when super powers like the US is so called free trade, Bangladesh
the air quality is declining and and China is becoming has to reduce risk in supply and
there are foggy weather warnings, more protectionists, it is availability of raw materials.
all chemical companies must stop clear that countries like Dyes and chemicals are major
the peak production in China. It Bangladesh also have to raw materials for textile mills.
is foreseeable that from October be protectionist. Instead Bangladesh consumes dyes and
2018 to 2019, the whole Zhejiang of believing is so called chemicals worth of about 800
will continue to take much stricter free trade, Bangladesh million USD every year. Which is
measures in environmental has to reduce risk in a significant amount, and so the
protection. And supply of supply and availability of country should play a potential
dyestuffs and raw materials of raw materials. Dyes and role in dyestuffs and chemicals
dyestuffs won’t be smooth soon. chemicals are major raw manufacturing industry. Mechanisms
materials for textile mills. should be devised to get more
According to the industry insiders, control in the supply chain.
the production of major dyestuff
manufacturers in China are still The sources also said that very Alternative environment friendly
being disturbed and affected recently, paper industry has been sources of raw materials for
because of the environmental affected as well, carton box factory dyestuff manufacturing have
protection in the northern of announce they are unable to get to be explored. Research and
Jiangsu province, China. In the raw materials and eventually has development in the aspects
face of the upcoming season increased the price; electroplate is needed. The brands should
of printing and dyeing industry, industry are almost closed since be aware of the supply chain
the continuous reduction of smell and pollution. In this regard, difficulties and they should
intermediates and dye stocks, the dyestuff manufacturers are facing adjust their requirements and
disperse conventional varieties, serious environmental check not budget accordingly as if other
including Disperse Black ECT same as before, price increasing is stakeholders in the supply chain
300% and Disperse Blue BGE , the being a daily issue in China. won’t get affected only. Industry
shortage of such small varieties initiatives like ZDHC and Bluesign
of dyes, the prices of disperse What is the way-out to the challenge? should promote them more in
dyes increased again at the end of the consumer level to make
August, 2018. There is no doubt that the textile sure extra expenditure from
dyeing industry is one of the most the consumers for environment
Authentic sources from several chemically intensive industries and health friendly products.
Chinese dyestuff manufacturing in the planet. However, there is a And the initiatives itself to make
companies said that the growing consumer consciousness sure that those extra money
Environmental supervisor team of to purchase eco-friendly garments. paid by consumers flow back to
China recently met in Hangzhou, And eventually industry initiatives the manufacturers who are real
the capital and most populous city like ZDHC and Blusign is in effect contributor in manufacturing right
products for them.

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Industry Insights

Textile Today Question of the Month

How will ‘gas price hike’ affect the textile and apparel industry and how will
the industrialist manage additional cost?
In September last year, the
Bangladesh government signed an
agreement with Qatar to import
Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG) to
meet the shortage of gas amid a
growing number of industries in
the country. In this regard, the gas
price is going to be hiked to adjust
to the price of imported LNG.
Already the energy ministry has
formed a committee to re-fix the
gas price. Once fixed, the proposal
will be sent to Bangladesh Energy
Regulatory Commission for review.
Textile and apparel manufacturers
are very much worried that how
Figure: Current and proposed price in TK for Bangladesh per cubic meter gas.
they will manage this hike as
already their production cost has 7.76 per unit to Tk 14.90 in the apparel industry and how will the
been increased 18 percent. industrial sector, from 17.04 per industrialist manage additional
unit to Tk 35 in the commercial cost? Textile Today selects this as
According to the ministry, the sector. Bangladesh government questions of the month for its new
price of gas may go up from will increase the gas price to section ‘Textile Today Question
Tk 9.62 per unit to 14.98 in the adjust to the price of imported of the Month’. Here is what some
captive power sector. The price Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG). industry insiders told about it…
is also likely to increase from Tk How will it affect the textile and

Bangladesh textile and apparel sector is contributing more than 12% in its GDP and
over 81% of the export earning comes from the industry. Our spinning sector has
improved a lot and helping our RMG industry to reduce the dependency of yarn
import and to save time. Gas, power, inefficiency ports are the present challenges
of the textile sector. Due to inefficient gas supply, many spinning factories are
facing a huge problem. If LNG added with our national grid line, the price will be
doubled. If the price is hiked in this way, our manufacturing cost also will be higher.
Approximately the cost will be increased 20 cents per kg. Besides when the gas
price will increase then bank loan interest and labor cost will also be high. We want
price predictability of electricity and gas so that we can plan for long periods for our
business. Besides, our government should give subsidiary and incentives for the spinning sector. We need
a strong monitoring system for the management of gas and electricity supply and ports.

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan (Jitu), Managing Director of NZ Tex Group

Bangladesh textile sector is fully depended on gas and electricity. Gas crisis is one of
the major problems of our industry. Bangladesh government has started to import
LNG for fulfilling the demand of local industry. So that gas price is going to increase
from 8.8 tk per unit to 14.90 tk per unit. Gas price will be increased more than 80
percent. Day by day production cost is increasing but product price is to the other
way. We urge to the government that gas price should not be more than 11tk per unit
and government will give subsidiary and incentives for the spinning sector. Besides,
we need uninterrupted gas and electricity supply for spinning and dyeing sector.

Md. Imam Hossain Patwary, Director, Bengal NFK Textile Ltd

50 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Industry Insights S p i n n i n g To d a y

If gas price increases, the direct production cost will go up. It will affect the net
profit of the manufacturing operation. However, perhaps it will ensure uninterrupted
gas and power supply for the textile and RMG industry. I would like to request
the government to do consideration and offer some kinds of concessions for
manufacturing sector regarding the pricing of LNG in the generators of the factories.
Due to the shortage of gas, the garments makers use diesel generator where the
costing is 12-13 TK per kilowatt. But in terms of pricing, it will be quite close but
our request to the government from the perspective of the competitiveness of our
manufacturing sector is to increase the price with a reasonable limit. As RMG sector
plays a great role in the country’s economy, we are requesting to the government to
consider some sort of concessioner price at least for the reputed factories.

Asif Ibrahim, Managing Director, Newage Garments Ltd

High-quality value-added yarn production

should be the new scheme of the spinners
FT Research Team

In Bangladesh, there are demands

of around three billion meters of
woven fabric every year whereas
only about 30-35% of total
demands are met locally. Yarn
unavailability is one of the most
vital causes behind this where
almost 90% demand of knit yarn
is settled locally. Quality cotton
crisis and uphill price are also
responsible behind this huge
gap between the supply and
demand in the woven industry. Figure 1: State-of-the-art compact ring spinning m/c at Hazrat Amanat Shah Spinning
Mills Ltd.
Understanding this huge prospect
and needs, Amanat Shah Group not affordable as yarn price is Parvez added.
established its’ spinning wing remaining same over the time.”
Hazrat Amanat Shah Spinning Mills Optimal quality and finer count
Limited (HASSML) in 2004. They They mainly use Egyptian Giza yarn production distinguish
use state-of-the-art machinery Cotton and American Pima Cotton HASSML from others when they
namely TRUTZCHLER, RIETER, for producing the finest yarns. also make their position strong in
Suessen Elite Compact Ring Frame the price negotiation table.
“Whole spinning industry is in
etc. and have about 1 lac spindles
the crisis of sufficient skilled
where almost 50,000 spindles
manpower, proper business plan,
engaged to produce compact finer
also lack of advanced technology
count yarns and rest for premium
and machinery which are now the
quality knit yarn .
most acute problems behind the
Engr. Aslam Parvez, Executive growth,” he expressed.
Director of HASSML opined,
“Dedicated and strong R&D team
“There is a huge crisis of suitable
could give you the mileage in the
quality cotton for finer count
long-term business policy,” Aslam Figure 2: Packages of finer count yarn.
yarn production and price is

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 51

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Windy Group bags H&M’s ‘Fast as

Bullet’ award for speedy delivery
FT Research Team

Windy Group has received the

H&M Denim Brands Award 2018
as the ‘Fast as Bullet’ contributor
of H&M. H&M handed over the
award in a business gathering held
at H&M Dhaka office on 5th July

The windy group is a trusted

company in the world for
meeting the quality standards
of international brands with
innovation, precision, and fast
service. Customer satisfaction is
their top priority even when they
get complex design requirements.

Mesbah Uddin Khan, Managing

Director of Windy Group said, Figure 2: Windy Group has a modern design studio.
“We are concerned about our
customer satisfaction and that’s
why we have a dedicated business To make the product faster, Windy of dedication in product
development team to make the Group has introduced a modern development. Their laboratory is
processes smooth and faster.” design studio with a separate level 3 category approved by H&M.
showroom for
children, men and Altogether, highly skilled
women about professionals are working in
two and half marketing and merchandising,
years prior. They design, materials sourcing,
have an expert production, information
Spanish designer technology as well as in logistics
who dedicatedly section of Windy Group to achieve
innovates the organizations’ vision, mission,
products, apart and goals.
from him, a
H&M has many special brands
dedicated sample
namely Cheap Monday, Monki,
section solely
Weekday, ARKET, Afound etc.
works for sample
and Windy Group works with
H&M from the beginning. Windy
Windy Group has Group regularly develops products
a dedicated and and produces all types of denim
dynamic R&D products for these brands.
team with strong
For bulk production and product
educational and
development, Windy Group uses
top-notch German machinery.
Their current monthly capacity
What they
is about 2 million pieces and has
have achieved
an expansion plan to 3.5 million
Figure 1: Specially developed product for H&M multi brand. is the fruition
pieces within 2021.

52 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Factory Ta l e s

Mayble & Frank launches eco-friendly ETP in Bangladesh

Desk Report

Mayble & Frank Ltd, an export-

oriented washing plant for denim
and non-denim has begun its
journey at Bhaluka in Bangladesh
on 11 August. It is becoming one
of the few textile companies in
Bangladesh that use eco-friendly
Effluent Treatment Plants (ETP).
ETP is used to treat the industrial
Figure: Eco-friendly washing plant opens in Bhaluka.
wastewater. The owner of the
company said that “Its ETP the parent company of Mayble & “We expect to earn $3 million in
is based on polyvinyl alcohol Frank. exports this year from Mayble &
(PVA) gel, which creates bacteria Frank and the new company will
Set up in 1998 as a bottom cloth-
to reduce water wastage during see a healthy growth in the coming
maker, Arrival Fashion’s exports to
wastewater treatment. It is environment- years,” he continued.
Europe, Australia and Russia amounted
friendly and cost-effective.” to about $25 million last year. Jacqui Gray further added that
While speaking at the opening “The Company is producing its
Shafiqul Islam, Managing Director
ceremony of the company in own energy which is a sustainable
of Arrival Fashion, said, “The
Bhaluka on 11 August, Jacqui Gray, initiative for the company. It will
PVA gel-based ETP is more
Head of sourcing of Cool Cat Asia not face the challenge of gas
environment-friendly as it
Ltd, said that the green initiative of shortage and price hike.”
consumes fewer chemicals. Once
the company will be considered as the gel is created from beads, it She concluded her speech by
excellent to our buyers. lasts for 20 years. Initially it needs saying that the ETP of Mayble &
Cool Cat Asia Ltd sources more investment, but in the long Frank is a role model for the textile
products from Arrival Fashion Ltd, run, it is cost-effective.” sector of Bangladesh.”

Graphics Textiles Ltd’s officials receive training from ERI

Desk Report

Recently a team from “Graphics

Textiles Ltd” has attended a
3-day long training program on
“Resource Efficient Management
of Chemicals (REMC)” in its factory
premises at Sreerampur, Kalampur,
Dhamrai, Dhaka. Engineering
Resources International Ltd. (ERI)
conducted the training sessions on
20th, 27th and 28th April 2018 for
the Graphics Textiles Ltd’s staffs from
different sections with the assistance
of the compliance department. Figure: Graphics Textiles Ltd’s officials receive training from ERI.

From this training, the participants develop action plans. Ltd inspired the workers to follow
got an idea of different elements up with the content discussed in
Total 60 trainees attended
of a chemical management system, the sessions. They also emphasized
the session and Mohammad
identify, document and calculate that everyone should spread the
Wasiuzzaman Shohan (Lead Trainer)
chemical wastes and critical areas learning with other workers in his
and Ashiqur Rahman (Trainer) from
using eco-mapping, prepare or her work area.
ERI conducted the sessions.
chemical inventory, categorize The certificate giving ceremony
In a closing speech, Md.
and classify chemicals by hazard held on July 11, 2018. Md.
Asaduzzaman and Purnendu
and risk bands for possible Asaduzzaman and Purnendu Bikash
Bikash Mitra from Graphics Textiles
prioritization of interventions and Mitra were present at the ceremony.

54 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

F a c t o r y Ta l e s -Te x t i l e I c o n

Management commitment should
come first to make textile industry
more sustainable
Investment in training is very essential for the textile industry, in this regard,
management commitment should come first.

Mohim Hassan
CEO of Northern Tosrifa Group

Proper planning, strategy, and many lethal problems and their Mohim Hassan: Thanks for your
skilled workforce, all these three likely solutions of the industry thoughtful question. This is true
elements can bring any success came out. that our industry is growing
for the textile industry. Still, the fast but do not have long-term
industry has many basic issues Textile Today: We see plenty of planning and strategy, just because
though it’s giving a certain amount textile manufacturing industries top management is not envisioned.
of revenue. Mohim Hassan, CEO here in Bangladesh, but most of This unplanned expansion will
of Northern Tosrifa Group, who them don’t have proper long- be a burden very soon because
has the versatile knowledge and a term business planning, growth fast fashion is changing the
huge experience in this industry, strategy, marketing policies, data products range frequently and
gave an interview recently with analysis etc. Most of all owners manufacturing processes are also
Textile Today Industry Research taking the decision from guts changing accordingly.
Team. Through this conversation, feeling, so how do you see this
whole scenario? Decisions from guts feeling,

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 55

F a c t o r y Ta l e s -Te x t i l e I c o n

temporarily it is giving revenue but living standard or is there any

it would be difficult to sustain if monitoring system whether it is
they do not adopt proper business This is true that our going to the right or wrong hand?
strategy soon. Individually our industry is growing
business size is not so big and fast but do not have Mohim Hassan: Millions of peoples
that’s why it is easy to take a long-term planning and are directly involved with this
decision from guts feeling, but industry and of course, the
strategy, just because
things are getting ticklish and you whole industry is contributing
top management is in this aspect. However, workers
have to shoot down your target by
one shot. not envisioned. This are victims of grimy root level
unplanned expansion will corruption which is making their
If I say about our local retailers, be a burden very soon life harder. If this corruption
primarily they are targeting continues, a new wage board
because fast fashion is
the local market but there are cannot help them much in terms
some smart people who are also
changing the products
of living standard upgradation,
focusing on the international range frequently and rather a group of people will be
market and doing very good in manufacturing processes benefitted. But still the new wage
the local market. Actually today are also changing board is a need of the hour and
or tomorrow, we all have to go for accordingly. the government should handle
retail business to holding out our this in the strong hand. Also, there
position. should be a group of people from
the industry end to monitor the
Textile Today: Investment for squeezed from buyers end day by system also.
training, knowledge development, day and the industry needs to be
data collection, company prepared. Textile Today: What is the
branding and marketing etc. are Northern Tosrifa Groups business
not seen in the industry usually. Therefore, I agree with you that model and what are the future
At the certain level there is a lack on top of everything management targets?
of top management commitment, commitment should come first
but is it possible to conduct such to change our industry in a more Mohim Hassan: We were slow
value-adding activities in the sustainable way. in the expansion and we got
industry without banking finance behind in the price war due to less
Textile Today: What is your volume. In addition, our customers
as banks are more interested in
opinion about the looming new are pushing us for expansion
tangible investment?
wage board? What would be the and finally, we are expanding to
Mohim Hassan: More or less every impact of this new wage board? compete with others. However,
industry has such activities I we have different business models
Mohim Hassan: Interested groups
think, mostly the training facility. that probably will change the
are negotiating on this, but I think
However, it is a matter of pity market trend as we have started
it should be such an amount so
that our mid-level peoples are a special knit fabric dye house
that workers can lead their lives
not ready yet to receive those with top-notch technology.
in a satisfactory level at least.
training because they think of it Environmental issues will be
It would be a little bit difficult
as a burden. In Northern Tosrifa maintained more carefully here.
for the owners but still possible.
Group, we have dedicated training
Hopefully, it will bring some socio- Currently, our core target is
and grooming facilities and lots
economical stability indeed. completing the CPB technology
of amazing CSR activities and
recently we have successfully dye house, already 75% work is
However, the new wage board
concluded our eye care program done and some final machinery
will be a drastic lesson for the
in our premises. We are trying is waiting to be installed. Already
unplanned grown factories. The
to develop that culture and we have submitted an application
whole value chain will be more
environment in our industry. for the Green LEED Certificate of
compact and it is time to give
the project as we have plan for
focus on the strategic issues,
Investment in training and other zero liquid discharge. I hope that
otherwise, numerous factories will
areas that you have mentioned by 2020 we could achieve our
be shut down after the wage reset.
are not impossible, but it would target. Other than that, we are
be difficult for the industry alone. Textile Today: The Textile industry expanding to produce high quality
Undoubtedly, these investments has great contribution in socio- knit garments targeting some elite
have crying needs in the industry economic transformation, but is buyers. We are also expanding
right now, because we are being it enough to maintain a minimum to other industries like the shoe
industry, fisheries industry etc.

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Spinning To d a y

Autoconer X6, flow into the

future of spinning technology
Desk Report

The new Autoconer X6 represents

a quantum leap in process
automation with its revolutionary
Bobbin Cloud material flow
system based on radio frequency
identification (RFID) technology,
said a press release.
The Autoconer X6 by SAURER
takes a definitive step towards
Automation 4.0 in the winding
field. This E³-certified machine
is distinguished by even lower
resource consumption and
increased production. With its Figure 1: Autoconer X6 represents a future-orientated direct link to the ring-spinning
outstanding winding technology, process with the integrated online quality monitoring system SPID.
the Autoconer remains the globally reductions of up to 20%, which Here, Schlafhorst achieves
recognized benchmark for quality is mainly due to its high energy unique improvements with
yarn and package production, said efficiency. All components and a complete comprehensive
the press statement. functions have been optimized solution. The upper yarn sensor,
Bobbin Cloud and RFID in terms of this. These measures aerodynamically optimized
technology form the basis for include improved aerodynamics in suction nozzle, SmartCycle with
a future-orientated direct link the airflow, state-of-the-art drives with intelligent cycling sequence and
between Autoconer and ring high-efficiency levels and the unique SmartJet in the doffer work in
spinning machine. A key feature Power on Demand vacuum control. perfect harmony.
is the integrated online quality Energy Monitoring, which continuously The Autoconer X6 has been
monitoring system SPID. As a monitors compressed air and consistently designed for
result, every spinning mill now has energy consumption online, helps maximum economy. Extra-long
the opportunity to establish its the operating personnel to optimize machines with up to 96 winding
quality level at the highest standard winding processes in an energy- units increase productivity per
with the new Autoconer X6. efficient manner and thus reduce costs. square meter. The Bobbin Cloud
Optimum machine networking and reliably supplies all winding units
But above all, the Autoconer
more intensive process automation along the entire length with the
X6 conserves the most valuable
are becoming the new standard. material at the highest cycle rates.
resource, the yarn, through
The Autoconer X6 also offers the perfectly coordinated Describing the benefit the release
attractive energy consumption winding and cycling processes. said that Autoconer packages
are considered the benchmark
for package quality in the textile
industry – both in commodity and
special applications. Even in its
basic configuration, the Autoconer
ensures high-quality packages
with many functional details; the
package build offers high process
reliability and thus higher benefits
in downstream processing.
With innovations in splicing
technology, the Autoconer X6
offers interesting possibilities for
successfully processing modern,
Figure 2: Bobbin Cloud and radio frequency identification technology mean unique
material flow management and maximum process reliability. sophisticated yarns.

58 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

F a c t o r y Ta l e s - I n t e r v i e w

Proper supply chain strategy is the

base of any business organization
COO of Eco Threads & Yarns, a sister concern of DBL Group, has been awarded as ‘Supply Chain
Professional of the Year’ under ‘Bangladesh Supply Chain Excellence Award 2018’ organized by IPDC.

Md. Shakhawat Hossain

Chief Operating Officer, Eco Threads & Yarns

Supply chain refers to all inputs shipping your products on time.

required to produce a product
Textile Today: Recently you
and fulfill a purchase. It includes
have been awarded from
planning (demand planning and
IPDC on behalf of DBL Group
supply Planning), raw materials
as “Supply Chain Professional
sourcing, manufacturing,
of the Year”, please share us
transporting, warehousing,
the story…
shipping etc. Fast delivery with
required quality is now sought Shakhawat Hossain: I think my
by buyers in this fast fashion era. contribution to the industry
Therefore, a strong supply chain helped me to achieve this
network could give an organization award. I always tried to give
a leading position in all aspect. my maximum effort and I am
trying to develop a special
Recently Md. Shakhawat Hossain,
supply chain management
Chief Operating Officer of Eco
system continuously. Supply
Threads & Yarns, a sister concern Figure: Md. Shakhawat Hossain, Chief Operating
Officer, Eco Threads & Yarns. chain resource development,
of DBL Group, has been awarded
inventory optimization, proper
as ‘Supply Chain Professional multinational level. We are planning, utilization increase,
of the Year’ under ‘Bangladesh implementing ‘Oracle Supply efficiency increase could be the
Supply Chain Excellence Award Chain Management’ in our supply reasons why I was awarded.
2018’ organized by IPDC. In a chain system. You know DBL is Moreover, I always try to deliver
conversation with Textile Today, now the fully automated company, products the right time with right
he shared his experience in using SedoMaster, color master quality and quantity.
supply chain management and and we are very concerned on our
contribution in the Textile Industry. Textile Today: What is your
management of inventory. Currently,
suggestions for industries when
Textile Today: Could you please share we are producing best quality Sewing
the price is being a crucial issue?
us the supply chain management Threads under eco brands also.
system of DBL group? Shakhawat Hossain: At first, the
Textile Today: How does lead time
proper plan is needed based on
Shakhawat Hossain: “Supply dominate the supply chain management?
quantity and quality requirements.
chain” is the base of any business Shakhawat Hossain: Actually lead Then plan should be executed
organization, who has best time drives the whole supply chain efficiently where most of the
supply chain management system management. It is very crucial and cost issues are involved. Again,
definitely they will lead the important issue for the industries unskilled manpower increases
industry and fortunately we’re to maintain lead time. You know costs. Industrialists should also
one of them. The supply chain most of the buyers give a very focus on the development of
is a business process, which short lead time now. 90 days were manpower skill, which could be
integrates from planning, sourcing, standard before, but now it is a the great asset for an organization.
manufacturing, distribution to delivery maximum of 45 days. H&M gives Therefore, we have to be strategic
process. In DBL, sourcing process only 28 days for an order which is in all aspects and assess our
is well established and we do the called ‘speed order’. In this regards processes to sustain in the long-
planning according to our capacity we have to do very hard work, term business.
and required quality and due dates. make plans fast and execute the
in all aspects and assess our
There are many local thread plans by ensuring the right quality
processes to sustain in the long-
companies in Bangladesh but first time. Therefore, you need a
term business.
we want to compete at the good and reliable supply chain
management system/process for

60 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s knit & woven dyeing & finishing
Au g u st 2018

Knit Concern ‘Buyers should

installed Fong’s force all the
new patented apparel producer
technology countries to build
machine TECWIN green factories’

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 61

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Knit Concern installed Fong’s new

patented technology machine TECWIN
FT Research Team

Knit Concern Group, one of the high capacity knit Co. Ltd. Jahangir Hossain Mollah, Vice President, Knit
fabric and garment manufacturing company has Concern Group received the crest from Fong’s as the
achieved a new capacity of dyeing sophisticated first valuable customer of TECWIN in Bangladesh.
very low and very high weight fabric smoothly. Nice Many industry professionals, experts, technologists
control systems in the new machine facilitate smooth from different factories were present at the seminar.
loading and storage within the machine, giving better
TECWINs technology and features
care in the process, meaning better quality fabric.
TECWIN is equipped and retained the superior
CHTC FONG’S International Company Limited
designs from the last generation. Additionally, some
brought TECWIN high-temperature dyeing machine
novel conceptual designs are integrated into this new
which is designed to satisfy the ever-changing
machine. Both the reliability and applicability of the
market demands with cutting-edge patented
machine are improved.
technology. Fong’s and Pacific Associates Ltd. jointly
organized an open house event on 11th August for Table: Technical data of TECWIN.
newly launched TECWIN machine at Knit Concern Design temperature 140°C
Group, Godnail, Narayanganj. This year in the middle
Design pressure 3.0 bar
of June, Knit Concern Group installed a TECWIN first
ever in Bangladesh. Heating gradient 25°C ~ 100°C approx. 5°C/min
100°C ~ 130°C approx. 2.5°C/
The new machine installed by Knit Concern is not
min(dry saturated steam
only giving them the capacity of a new range of pressure at 7bar)
quality fabric, it will also help the company to reduce
Cooling gradient 130°C ~ 100°C approx. 3°C/min
water, energy and chemical consumption. Mechanical
design and use of intelligent automation technology 100°C ~ 80°C approx. 2°C/
will solve many problems which traditionally was min(cooling water at 3bar, 25°C)
being overcome by using chemicals. Some special feature
of the m/c-
Front Spray Nozzle:
Provide an additional
opportunity to
increase the degree of
dye liquor interchange
before the fabrics
entering the main
nozzle. The levelness
and quality of fabrics
could be enhanced.
Automatic Variable
Loading Storage
Chamber: The loading
storage capacity
can be adjusted
automatically to suit
different kinds of
fabric running.
Figure 1: Jahangir Hossain Mollah from Knit Concern receiving the crest from Mr. Shahabuddin of Pacific
associates, others from both companies and fong’s are also seen in the picture. Liquid Dispersion
The event was inaugurated by the welcome speech Storage Chamber: Stainless steel bottom sieve with
of Mr. Shahabuddin, Managing Director of Pacific special design for effective liquid dispersion. Reduce
Associates Ltd. The technical session described fabric scratching or sticking using PTFE tubes
by Stephen S.L. Leung, Manager, Application design.
Technology Centre of Fong’s National Engineering
Dye Liquor Separation Design: The Dye liquor
separation is specially designed in TECWIN. Along

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 63

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

with the variable loading storage

chamber, the dyeing operation
can be smoother and stacking of
fabrics can be more organized,
which eventually leads to a lower
liquor ratio.
Integrated Intelligent Rinsing
(IIR): IIR uses an optical device
with a unique control software
to monitor the “color index” of
the water discharge in real time.
It reduces the excess rinsing
water consumption, energy
consumption, and emission.
Effective Unloading Design: The
surface of the stainless steel roller Figure 2: Schematic side view of TECWIN.
is wrapped with high friction

Figure 3: Experts from different textile factories visited Fongs TECWIN machine at Knit Concern Ltd.

material to increase lifting force; Nominal material to liquor ratio 2 tube TECWIN m/c, each tube
achieving an effective unloading (1:4~4.5) give this m/c more has 300 kg capacity. Total dyeing
operation. acceptability. Engr. Md. Rakibul capacity of KCL is about 35 tons
Hassan (Rocky), Deputy Manager daily. Knit Concern produces and
Control System: A good
(Dyeing), Knit Concern Ltd. exports about 150,000 pieces of
controlling system is considered as
said, “We recovered crease knit apparel and 25,000 pieces of
the heart of a dyeing m/c. Latest
mark greatly by using this m/c lingerie daily.
program controller – FC30EX is
and loading percentage is also
equipped in TECWIN. With the
increased notably.”
novel control functions, it is one of
the most cost-effective controllers. Knit Concern Ltd. installed the

64 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Maximum Design variation Available the market

SDS - Space Dyeing Station

 Small Surface Required
 Giant Hanks
 New Effects Customer Reference-
 Low Liquir Ratio
 Water Saving ○ Epyllion Group
 Time Saving ○ GMS Composite Knitting Ind.Ltd

 No more manual overfeed control

 No more fabric wastage for GSM cutting

 Save up to 5 % fabrics wastage

Revolution on GSM control for stenter & Sanfo  Uniform GSM throughout the batch


Country Representative

ELCOUNT Customer reference -

 Fatullah Fabrics Ltd.Co
House-B148 (2nd Floor), Road-22,  Alliance Composite Ltd
New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206  Mascom Composite Ltd
Mob: 01711558828, 01625387580
E-mail:  Ayman textile & Hosiery Ltd
 EOS Textile (Woven fabrics)
F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Northern Tosrifa Group concludes its ‘Eye Care Program’

According to the World Health Organization, an estimated 217 million people have moderate to severe vision
impairment. Globally, chronic eye diseases are the main cause of vision loss.

Staff Correspondent

Northern Tosrifa Group (NTG) donation, eye-camp.

conducted the ‘NTG Eye Care Earlier, we completed
Program’ from 31 July to 13 August the Hepatitis-B
2018. Vaccine course for
our workers. CSR
In the closing program on 16
activities not only
August at NTG premises, many
help the company
industry professionals and brands
but also enhances
representative including Lindex,
the lifestyles of
KSL, Toray Intl. were present and
employees, their
applauded the activity.
families and
Through this program, NTG environment, thus it
provided eye care, medicine, and helps to unravel the
Figure 2: Mohim Hassan, CEO of Northern Tosrifa Group.
spectacles to more than 5487 global threatening
workers and staffs of NTG to delivered critical support to facts,” said Mohim Hassan, CEO of
ensure workforce health. They NTG’s members on a need basis. Northern Tosrifa Group.
have a dedicated CSR team to More than 1569 were provided “Eye Camp is one of the noble
conduct this kind of activities. with medicine and 1266 were Corporate Social Responsibility
The eye care program was 14 prescribed with spectacles. (CSR) for any Industry. It is a
days long and to raise awareness “Bangladesh garment industry is great initiative for NTG to ensure
MSS volunteers explained basic a labor-intensive industry where workers good health and safety.
measures to keep eyes healthy. approximately 4.4 million workers Most of the brands and buyers
The program ensured free of cost are working. We have regular are also working on worker health
eye check-up and has successfully CSR activities including blood issues.” Said Md Ariful Islam,
Merchandiser, Toray International
Bangladesh Liaison Office.
In March 2018, NTG became a
part of United Nations Global
Compact where they promised to
align their business process with
Sustainable Development Goals
(SDG) set by the UN. The ‘NTG
Eye Care Program’ is aligned with
SDG 3, good health and wellbeing.
NTG hopes more organizations
will come forward and take such
Figure 1: On 16 August, Northern Tosrifa Group organized a closing day of its 14-day long
Eye Care Program. initiatives.

Training on Mentors Profile

The program is one of the 5

Compliance (Social & Materials)

training modules of 'Certificate on
Sustainability Management'

Management in Textile Industry

Mohammed Al Tauhidul Islam
Head of Compliance & Sustainability
Envoy Textiles Limited

Main Content Date: 26-27 October, 2018

Sustainable Human Resource & Compliance Management
(BSCI, SEDEX, ICS,WRAP, C-TPAT, Labor laws, ILO) Time: 9.00 AM - 5.00 PM
Buyer's COC (Primark, H&M, M&S, Lidl, VF, etc.)
Modern CSR Practices Contact
Parvez Ahmed
Product Compliance & It's Sustainability Management LLB, EMBA (HRM), MBA (AIS), BBA (AIS)  +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085
(GOTS, OCS, OEKOTEX, STeP) Manager - Compliance & Training | GTL

Jointly Organized by
F a c t o r y Ta l e s - I n t e r v i e w

‘Buyers should force all the

apparel producer countries to
build safe environment’
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh
Executive Director (Marketing & Operation) SM Knitwears Ltd

Country’s garment business has stumbled over many times from its beginning. However, the industry
has overcome all the obstacles and recently, Bangladesh has moved forward a step in terms of working
environment index. As a result, buyers rely on Bangladesh as a strong hotspot for sourcing, which helps
Bangladesh to hold the second largest apparel exporter position in the world. However, to uplift this industry
many pioneers and dedicators are working continuously.
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh is one of them who is now working at SM Knitwears Ltd (SM Group), the leading
company in Bangladesh RMG sector as an Executive Director (Marketing & Operation). Sawpan Kumar Ghosh,
one of most dominating noteworthy RMG leader and business icon in Bangladesh, has 26 years’ versatile
experience and in-depth knowledge on knitwear industry.
In a recent conversation with Abir Basak, Research Assistant and Reporter of Textile Today, he shared about his
company’s development, sector’s challenges, obstacles, sustainability issue, fashion business etc. Here is the

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 67

F a c t o r y Ta l e s - I n t e r v i e w

illuminated part of the discussion its best using. We had a chemical to all the neighboring clothes
for Textile Today readers. ETP plant before, but now effluent manufacturing countries. This is
is being treated in a modern a competitive market. To build
Textile Today: Tell us about the
biological plant by canceling a green and safe factory, the
journey of SM Knitwears and what
previous one. The present capacity owners have to invest a lot. All the
is the present condition of this
of ETP is 200 m3/ hour. For members of BGMEA invested a
Accord inspection, we have our huge amount of money to upgrade
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: This own sustainability team who workplace safety in terms of
company started its commercial monitors regularly as an internal fire, electrical, structural issues,
operation in the year 2001 at audit. We are working towards production process and new
Shirirchala, Bhabanipur, Gazipur Zero Discharge at ETP. For highest machinery. New automatic, semi-
by setting up one joint venture sustainability, we use power saving automatic and resource efficient
knit composite plant under lights, servo motor in the sewing machinery have been added.
the umbrella of SM group in machine and exhaust gas boiler. Meanwhile, the investors want to
Bangladesh. We are a large bring back the invested money.
Textile Today: From which angle
business conglomerate engaged But the buyers are not paying the
SM Knitwears is different from
in domestic and overseas business expected price considering that.
others? What type of privileges
maintaining full compliance. As
is SM Knitwears giving to their So I think, local investors will be
a part of the natural growth of
workers and staffs? bashed in the business if buyers
business operation, we are now
buy clothes from non-compliance
spreading over from retailing Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: We give
factories of the neighboring countries.
fashion wear to the housing 600Tk attendance bonus to the
business. Basically, we make workers whereas others give Textile Today: What is the
all kinds of knit apparels for 400Tk. Salaries are given on time, condition of the Bangladesh
both women-men and kids. SM within the first 7 days of a month. apparel industry compared to
Knitwears has recently achieved Working time is fixed, daily 8 hours. the neighboring countries? From
sustainability certificate from We strictly follow international which sides this country is behind
NKD along with ACCORD, Sedex, labor laws, that’s why we don’t or ahead than others? How are
Okeo-Tex, BSCI, GOTS, ISO get any complain from our staffs the future prospects?
9001:2008 etc and this company and workers. Our mid-level Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: India is
one of the best five factory management is trained up in the very strong in textile, they have their
supplier in the world and the only factory’s internal training center own cotton, own chemical, yarn, and
one in Bangladesh for Li & Fung. to be highly competent. They fabric. They are the largest cotton
Zara, Next, Bench, Kmart, NKD, participate in BGMEA’s regular and woven fabric producer. They
Carrefour, Toray, Primark along training programs. High officials are are the second largest manmade
with other European and American also sent abroad. We arrange fire fiber producer in the world. India
buyers who are working with us. drill program in every month. has observed double-digit growth
They trust us much because of
Diversified product making in large in the apparel sector, which is
on-time delivery of qualitative
quantity is our strength. We have very challenging for us. China is
products. We are manufacturing a
a plan to build a high-class design leaving their market share as they
maximum 3.5 million garments per
center soon. are giving more concentration
month with modern sustainable
on higher value items. This is the
equipment’s. I can remember Textile Today: Bangladesh opportunity for Bangladesh to
when I joined here, the company’s has moved forward a step in grab the chair. Despite being the
turnover was US$ one million per sustainability and compliance second largest exporter of RMG
month only, but now our annual issue. What do you think about it? products, the country is yet to build
turnover is US$ 70 million. It is a
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: Building its own clothing brands with name
real achievement for us and we are
green factories and developing recognition in the international arena.
gradually growing as a team.
sustainability cultures are taking
On the other hand, China and
Textile Today: What type of Bangladesh at the unique height.
Bangladesh started the business
policy has SM Knitwears taken for There are 13 LEED Platinum
with low-cost clothing making
sustainability growth? factories including 67 LEED
at the same time. Today they
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: green registered factories in our
are producing high quality and
Sustainability is now a hot topic. country. This is undoubtedly a real
varied products and giving us the
Our whole apparel industry is breakthrough for our RMG sector.
opportunity to access the market
working very hard on it. Keeping in However, to make a green and of their abandoned products. Like
mind on this issue, SM Knitwears safe factory, not only Bangladesh, China, South Korea and Taiwan
gives the highest priority to ensure buyers should also pressurize have similarly industrialized their

68 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Country Representative:

Dhaka Office: House # 09 (9th Floor), Road # 02, Sector # 03,

E C C Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh, Tel: +88 +88 02 58950898
Chittagong Office: Sultan Monzil (2nd Floor), 119 Sk. Mujib Road
ECO COLOUR CHEM Agrabad, Chittagong- 4100, Bangladesh, Tel: +88 031 2512828
F a c t o r y Ta l e s - I n t e r v i e w

country. Therefore, we have to we can get huge popularity by other countries where the outlets
change the strategy too. Instead of branding our own products. are available. We hope brand
relying on cheap labor prices, the authorities will concentrate on
Bangladeshi manufacturers need
competition will be sustained by it and start their marketing by
to showcase their innovative
increasing productivity and quality. products as well as the industrial establishing outlets in Bangladesh
Along with that, diversification strength. A Bangladeshi in near future.
of the product is needed for the manufacturer has to keep in In case of conflicting with local
expansion of the market or parallel mind that he is going to fight brands, I think, quality works as
expansion. We need support from brands like Zara, H&M or Marks the main catalyst. If local brands
all the stakeholders and especially and Spencer. The key tool to maintain their product’s quality, no
policy and financial support from fight is innovative fashion design foreign brand can beat them. Local
our government and banks. and qualitative products at a
brands have versatile experience
reasonable price. Bangladesh has
Textile Today: We know, SM on country’s people’s taste and
to have international exposure. It
Knitwears has own domestic demand. On the other hand, local
has to arrange more fashion shows
brand named ‘Smartex’. Do you fashion houses are expert to make
and seminars to showcase product
have any plans to go Smartex’s and design traditional attires. This
diversification and varieties, as
clothes in the international phenomenon and advantage will
well as need to participate in
market? What should be done keep ahead of our local brands.
international events to learn about
to increase the popularity fashion trends. Textile Today: What is the reason
of domestic brands in the
Textile Today: Popular brands like for Bangladesh to lag behind in
international arena?
H&M, Zara, GAP, Uniqlo opened the designing arena?
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: We have their outlets in neighboring Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: Yes, we are
no plans yet regarding on this
country ‘India’ or ‘Malaysia’. What not so much rich in the designing
issue. We started our own brand
are the reasons for not opening sector. Actually, this sector needs
for the local arena’s demand
their outlets in Bangladesh? If huge investment. Who worked
in 2002. In order to contribute
started, then how will it affect the here earlier to accelerate, they
more to Bangladesh’s economy
local brands? did not get a good response from
‘Smartex’ has started 35 total
Sawpan Kumar Ghosh: It’s a buyers. Buyers chose their own
shopping outlets all over the
disappointing matter for us designs every time. For this reason,
country. Beside capital Dhaka,
that no multinational brands our factory owners did not get
we have attempted to provide
have opened their outlets yet in encouraged to develop this sector.
service in the rural areas. Country’s
many companies have their own Bangladesh although we make Hopefully, some factories such
creations like Sailor from Epillyon, their products. This country has as Auto-Tex, GMS, Urmi etc have
Yellow from Beximco, SaRa from moved far ahead in the economic started to develop their design
Snowtex, Klubhaus from Dekko index. The purchasing power studio to speed up the product
etc. They are doing excellent. of mass people has increased development process. If this sector
The only homemade brand can than before; luxurious, attractive is amplified in future successfully,
represent Bangladesh strongly in shopping malls are built. People we can get extra facilities on price
the world fashion place. Besides, go to buy clothes every year in negotiation policy.

Training on Mentors Profile The program is one of the 5

Safety training modules of 'Certificate on

Sustainability Management'


in Textile Industry Mohammed Al Tauhidul Islam

Head of Compliance & Sustainability
Envoy Textiles Limited

Date: 19-20 October, 2018

Main Content (Friday-Saturday)
Industrial Safety (Fire, Structural, Electrical) Professional Safety Trainer Time: 9.00 AM - 5.00 PM
Occupational Health & Safety ToT (Alliance worker Safety)

 +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085
Jointly Organized by
Te x t i l e People

Wuhan Textile University becomes

a hub of higher education in textile
Staff Correspondent

China is the largest textile

manufacturing country in the
world and it is now hosting the
largest textile education facilities
as well. Wuhan Textile University
(WTU), the world’s largest textile
university, is situated in China,
where internationalization of
textile education is considered
as a trust issue as a part of its
international policy. And it seems
WTU is leading this process, which
is now the place for thousand
international students from 70
countries who are studying and
doing research in many aspects of Figure: Md. Ruhul Amin, Country Manager, Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

textiles under many scopes.

garments exporters in the world. chooses Bangladeshi graduates for
WTU is a public higher education Bangladesh is the second largest better business.”
institution of China aimed at garments exporter in the world
cultivating textile specialists and the country imports most of Most of the Bangladeshi graduates
and serving the textile industry. the raw material including dyes are contributing in Chinese
The university was founded in chemical, yarn, accessories from Company due to good salaries and
1958 in central China in Hubei’s China. So Chinese company always facilities, added Amin.
capital Wuhan, a metropolis full
Offering high-quality, student-
of universities and talents. WTU Some prominent textile
oriented education through
is the only institution in Central universities in China
multi-disciplinary integration
and Southwest China that features Wuhan Textile University with engineering, science, arts,
studies in textile and apparel.
Peking (or Beijing) University economics and management
Since 2013, Bangladeshi Tsinghua University disciplines and bright features in
students have been coming to the field of textile engineering,
Renmin (Peoples) University
this university for their Master’s fashion design, art design, and
China Agricultural University new media- WTU becomes a hub
study. Currently, more than 150
Bangladeshi students are studying China University of Business and of higher education in textile,
their masters at WTU. Economics apparel, and fashion design.
Sichuan University, Nottingham
Md. Ruhul Amin, Country Manager, “These are some of the top
University Business School China
Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New universities in China and there are
Material Co. Ltd., achieved Master’s Bangladeshi students in many of
Shanghai Jiao Tong University them,” said Amin.
degree from Wuhan University.
Fudan University
“In 2013, we got a scholarship for
“In 2015, WTU graduates had
Master’s Study in Wuhan Textile Nanjing University
started a formal organization
University. Wuhan university Wuhan University
to strengthen cooperation and
education system is very well and University of Science and networking among themselves. To
eco-friendly,” Amin said. Technology China accelerate bonding, Wuhan Textile
He also said, “The Chinese culture, Jilin University University Alumni Association
people, habits, language, food, Xi’an Jiao Tong University of Bangladesh (WTUAAB) was
and interactions are fairly different formed with Prof Dr Engr Ayub
South China University of
from Bangladesh or any other Nabi Khan, Syed Fakhrul Hassan,
country. China is one of the largest and Prof Dr Md Saifur Rahman, as
Zhejiang Medical University advisors,” said Amin.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 71

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

ROSSARI organizes ZDHC

seminar to step towards
sustainable textiles
Staff Correspondent

ROSSARI BIOTECH LIMITED, one “With an unbeatable combination for the pilot scale production,
of India’s leading manufacturers of R&D and best technical support, which is a mini replica of the full-
and exporters of textile chemical ROSSARI is constantly striving and fledged production plant. The
auxiliaries, enzymes, polymers coming out with newer products developed product is then tested
and animal healthcare products, and molecules. ROSSARI has for its commercial viability and is
organized a seminar titled ‘A Step products for textiles, spatiality scaled up to a commercial level
Towards Sustainable Textiles’ chemicals for coatings, paints, of production. ROSSARI has joint
on 3 August 2018 to promote and inks. ROSSARI also has venture business with Buzil, Unilever,
sustainability in the Textile animal health & nutrition, silicone HYDRA ITALIA & CYRA CHEM.
Industry of Bangladesh. The theme oil, laundry & industrial cleaning
Puneet Arora said in his speech
of the seminar was ‘Shonar Bangla chemicals and polymers for paints,
that ROSSARI was recognized
Sustainable Bangla’. ceramics, water treatment, paper &
as the ‘Star Performer 2018
textiles products.” Puneet Arora said.
Puneet Arora, Vice President, for Innovation’ by M/s Arvind
Rossari Biotech Limited, shared ROSSARI started its business in Industries for consistency in
the views and objectives of 1996, which was accorder as one delivering quality products, in-
Rossari with the audience. He star Export House in 2016 and in depth and Key performance in
said, “ROSSARI is recognized 2008. ROSSARI received an SE-1A Continuous Bleaching Range
as a pioneering force in the rating for highest performance (CBR) system.
Indian Textile Industry to provide capability and high financial
ROSSARI has sustainability
end to end solutions in Textile strength from CRISIL.
approach by minimum use of
Processing, tailor-made solutions
Rossari’s products are regularly resources (Water and Energy),
to their customers. ROSSARI has
exporting to 17 different countries chemical consumption, pollution
set up ‘State of the Art’ facilities
all over the world. The products load, elimination of toxic chemicals
manufacturing process and it
are successfully tested by the from the supply chain and by
has dedicated research and
R&D team and approved by the elimination of harmful chemical
development (R&D) labs at their
marketing team is forwarded residues from final textile. ROSSARI
HO and Factory.”

Figure 1: (From the left) Shantanu Kumar Mallick, Country Head of Bangladesh, ROSSARI BIOTECH LIMITED, Puneet Arora Vice
President, Rossari Biotech Limited, Prashad Pant, South Asia Director (ZDHC Program), Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President of
BGMEA and MD, Giant Group and other distinguished guests were present in the seminar.

72 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Focusing the working procedures

and different tools of ZDHC
he said, “ZDHC is a holistic
approach to Sustainable Chemical
Management which includes
‘Input’, ‘Process’ and ‘Output’. In
each Focus Area, we establish
industry standards and tools for
The ZDHC MRSL is a list of
chemical substances that should
be banned from intentionally use
by the industry in the production
of textile, apparel, leather, and
footwear. The ZDHC MRSL applies
Figure 2: Puneet Arora Vice President, Rossari Biotech Limited shared the views and
objectives of ROSSARI with the audience. to chemicals used in facilities that
process materials and trim parts
believe ‘Live in the present, but According to the UN every 15
for use in the industry, he said.
don’t ignore the future.’ seconds in the world, a child dies
from water-related disease. Textile Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL
Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice
Industry is known as one of the include solvents, cleaners,
President of BGMEA said, “Green
polluting industry. There are lots adhesives, paints, inks, detergents,
technology is the key to the
of factories in the world where the dyes, colorants, auxiliaries,
green transformation of business
wastewater which is discharged coatings and finishing agents used
and enterprises in the country.
from a textile manufacturing plant during raw material production,
Sustainability is the major initiative
is not treated enough to remove all wet-processing, maintenance,
of most of the brands and
these hazardous substances from wastewater treatment, sanitation
suppliers. Now, Bangladesh has the
going into the river. Chemicals have and pest control. The RSL governs
highest number of green factories
different impacts to our bodies. the outputs (finished product) to
in the world. The policy is must for
protect consumers.
green revelation as it shows the path.” There are chemicals which can be
the reason for certain death. There Prashad said, “Greenpeace
Most of the chemical supplier
are chemicals which can damage challenged the Brands to commit
are taking ZDHC initiative to
skin or cause irritation. There are their entire Supply Chain to shift to
protect our environment. I think
chemicals which are now known discharge of Zero-Toxic chemicals
for sustainable business we need
as cancer-causing chemicals. across all pathways.”
more sustainable product,” he
The chemicals which we are Our mission is to enable brands,
producing are not limited to the retailers and their supply chain
Prashad Pant, South Asia Director area where we are producing but partners in the textile, apparel,
(ZDHC Program) congratulated it is transported either through the leather and footwear industries to
ROSSARI for joining ZDHC and water or through the air to various implement sustainable chemical
then he shared the views and parts of the world even to the management best practice across
objectives of ZDHC. He Said, North Pole, explained Prasad. the value chain, he added.
“Do not confuse ZDHC with only
zero discharge of chemicals in
wastewater. It is one of the aims
of ZDHC and it is more of a
holistic program towards chemical
management. ZDHC is an initiative
for widespread implementation
of sustainable chemistry and
environmental best practices in
the textile, apparel, leather and
footwear supply chain through
collaborative engagement,
standard setting, implementation
and Innovation projects. First of
all, we should know what we are
Figure 3: Prashad Pant, South Asia Director (ZDHC Program), shared the objectives of
going to eliminate.” ZDHC with the audience.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 73

Te x t i l e P e o p l e

ATET new committee takes

charge with new hope
Staff Correspondent

The Association of Textile

Engineers & Technologists
(ATET), a national association
for the Textile Engineers and
Technologist of Bangladesh,
was officially founded in 2012.
Recently a new ATET committee
has been announced on 10 August
2018. Where Engr. Md. Aminul
Islam, Managing Director of Dara
Technology (BD) Limited, was
declared as the President for the
3rd term for next two years.

Md. Jamal Chowdhury Sohagh and

S. M. Shohel Rana were declared Figure : (From right) Newly elected ATET President Engr. Md. Aminul
respectively as the Secretary- Islam, Secretary General Engr. Md. Jamal Chowdhury Shohagh and
General and Organizing Secretary. Organizing Secretary Engr. S.M. Shohel Rana.

ATET has been working for the develop the soft skills of the Textile ATET thinks the salary scale of
progress of the Textile Engineers Engineers which will enable them the textile engineers is not fixed
who are the core of the Textile to give full support to the textile or honorable at all. There should
Industry which include Spinning, industry when they will be in the be a standard salary scale for the
knitting, weaving, dyeing, garment managerial position. ATET wants textile engineers in the industry.
factory, and buying house. to establish a Training Institute to The working hours are not fixed
develop the soft and factory skills and even they have to work on EID
“The community, who are giving of the textile professionals and the holidays.
full support to the textile industry new committee will start within
in Bangladesh to achieve the next 6 months. “The government and concerned
position of 2nd largest garment people should consider these
exporter in the world are not They opined that a number of matters to give minimum facilities
properly honored and well foreign experts are taking away to the textile engineers who are
recognized by the Government of a lot of money illegally without working with full dedication from
Bangladesh till today,” ATET new proper taxation. The government the very beginning of the industry,”
executive committee said this should give a well-focused eye they emphasized.
while exchanging their views with to this area and encourage local
textile engineers to avail these ATET wants the decentralization of
Textile Today.
positions and support the industry the education system so that there
ATET with their strength of the effectively. should not be any discrepancies.
association wants to highlight the Till today there are many
problems of the Textile Engineers “We don’t want to discourage the discrepancies in the government
to the Government of Bangladesh. engagement of the foreign experts jobs for the textile engineers.
fully but we want to reduce the
One of the main objectives of engagement and at the same time ATET will go ahead along with
ATET is to provide collective we want to engage local textile ITET to establish the rights of the
effort to develop the skills of engineers to avail those positions textile engineers of Bangladesh
the Textile Engineers as well as gradually. Local Textile Engineers and to develop the textile sector of
to strengthen the bond among are efficient enough to cover these the same, they added.
the members. They also want to areas effectively,” they opined.

74 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Govt. Reg. No. Dha-09039 TECHNOLOGIST (ATET) Govt. Reg. No. Dha-09039

The newly elected executive committee for the term (2018-2020)

Secretary General President Organizing Secretary

Engr. Md. Jamal Chowdhury Shohagh Engr. Md. Aminul Islam Engr. S. M. Shohel Rana

Vice President Vice President Vice President Asst. Secretary General Asst. Secretary General
Engr. Md. Shariful Islam Engr. Md. Mosharaf Hossain Hayder Engr. Md. Shahidul Islam Engr. Md. Sazzad Hossain Engr. Mizanur Rahman (Kajal)

Asst. Organizing Secretary Asst. Organizing Secretary Treasurer Assistant Treasurer Office Secretary
Engr. Uddapon Ray Engr. Md. Golam Mostafa Engr. S.M. Hasibullah Engr. Md. Abdul Kader Engr. Md. Kamrul Islam (Babu)

Asst. Office Secretary Publicity Secretary Asst. Publicity Secretary Edu & Ltr. Affairs Sec. Asst. Edu & Ltr. Affairs Sec. Sports and Cultural Sec.
Engr. Md. Humyun Rashid Engr. Md. Abdus Salam Khan Engr. Md. Saddam Hossain Engr. Arifur Rahman Siddique Engr. Md.Zakir Hossain Engr. Md. Ariful Islam

Asst. Sports and Cultural Sec. Women Affairs Sec. Social Welfare Sec. Asst. Social Welfare Sec. Executive Member Executive Member
Engr. Md. Shamim Hossain Engr. Nur E Jannath Sumi Engr. Md. MonirHoaasin Azad Engr. Md. Helal Uddin Engr. Md. Sahbuddin (Masud) Engr. Md. Imran Kabir (Mithu)

Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member Executive Member
Engr. Md. Moazzem Hossain Sarker Engr. Md. Kamruzzaman Engr. Md. Obaidul Hoque Engr. Md. Monirul Islam Engr. Md. Zohirul Islam (Rajen) Engr. Md. Haduzzaman
Country Profile


Indonesia launched “Making Indonesia

4.0” roadmap to improve industrial

M M Uddin

The 2 percent global shareholder

Indonesian textile industry has
targeted to increase the export
value of textiles and garments
to $ 75 billion by the year 2030.
That means the country want
to contribute 5 percent of the
global market. The target of the 5 Sensor Technology
percent global share is ambitious
in the current situation but not
impossible. There are lots of
Artificial Intelligence Hi-Speed Internet
challenges, but the government of
the country has already taken lots Figure 1: Major facts of the ‘Making Indonesia 4.0’ strategy.
of positive and potential initiatives
interface, 3D printing, robot and by the Chinese and American
to achieve the goal.
sensor technology, to boost Trade war will increase
The policymaker thinks the industrial capacity and rapid competition for China. Chinese
high-tech revolution to improve change of production output. investors are already in pressure
Indonesia’s RMG sector and on the domestic market for high
RMG is one of the major priority
increase competitiveness for other wages. On the other hand, the
sectors of Indonesian and it can
industries. Recently the Indonesian American tariffs on the Chinese
become a global leader under
government officially launched the goods are “To pour water on a
the roadmap, with manufacturing
roadmap called “Making Indonesia drowned mouse.”
forecasts to account for 21 to 26
4.0”. Industry 4.0 is a term that
percent of GDP by 2030, up from Chinese manufacturers are
refers to the fourth industrial
18 percent in 2016. It will make searching for an alternative
revolution in manufacturing and
seven million to nineteen million production place for reducing
new jobs by 2030 and that will the production cost. Indonesia,
The Making Indonesia 4.0 strategy contribute a sustainable GDP Bangladesh, Myanmar will be
highlights the technological growth 1 to 2 percent. the alternative for China and it
advancements, including the is one of the major reasons for
These dramatically huge
hi-speed internet, artificial huge technological adoption.
technological changes influenced
intelligence, human-machine

76 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Country Profile

Nevertheless, it will be a wrong rapid transit systems for six more successful and developed
decision for Indonesia rather metropolitan areas. nation.
than Indonesia must focus
The skilled workforce is still one Industry Minister Hartarto said,
the sustainable technological
of the big challenges of the “It will be key to encourage
development, which will create an
Indonesian RMG industry. So added value and high-technology
alternative market for them.
that the government has taken downstream industries to
To boost up manufacturing the initiative to improve the become a competitive player
activities the government is hoping educational system and syllabus in the new global context. In
a series of major infrastructure to adopt the modern technology. order to turn Indonesia into a
projects, a supportive legal They already achieved the electric competitive nation, it will require
framework, and incentives for powered vehicles, biofuels, and the development and integration
modern technology transfer renewable energy sources to of connectivity, technology,
and development under the make the production sustainable. information, and communication.
‘Marking Indonesia 4.0 strategy’. Immediate fulfill the shortage of This should lead to a more efficient
IEA (Indonesian Employers skilled technical experts to make economy as well as higher quality
Association) said, “Strengthening easier to hire the foreign workers output in the industry sector.”
raw material output was key to domestically, a development
A package of incentives such
improving industrial production, expected to assist in building up
as harmonization of regulations
with a series of construction the skills of the local workforce.
and policies, tax reduces or
projects to help fuel demand”.
The “Making Indonesia 4.0” subsidies to be offered to speed
To fulfill the transport and logistics roadmap, which is led by the up the implementation of certain
demand govt focus on 24 seaports Industry Ministry, is an important technologies, greater collaboration
to be constructed, 3,258 km of element on the national agenda. between the state, private sector
rail lines, 2,650 km of new roads, Therefore, all sides have to support and universities to develop an
15 airports and along with mass this roadmap and contribute to a innovation-based ecosystem.
C o t t o n To d a y

US wants Bangladesh to lift cotton import restrictions

Desk Report

China has recently imposed 25 Bangladesh, allegedly to prevent boll said William R. Bettendorf, Director
percent retaliatory duty on the weevil but that boll weevil has been of Cotton Council International.
import of cotton from the US as eradicated from the US long ago.
“And for that, it is necessary to
part of the ‘trade war’ between the
“The fumigation rule was enacted remove those unnecessary restrictions
two countries. US cotton is going
in the late 1960s reportedly to like fumigation,” he added.
to other countries like South Korea
protect Pakistani cotton against
or Bangladesh in a larger volume “Almost no other cotton importing
competition from US cotton.
as a result of this move. countries including China or
But the rule is irrelevant now
Vietnam have that phytosanitary
But there are some difficulties to as Bangladesh is not a major
requirement,” Bettendorf noted.
export cotton in Bangladesh from cotton producer and depends
the USA. That is why the cotton heavily on imports,” said Sabbir “Long transit time coupled with
sector leaders from the United Ahmed Chowdhury, Program the congestion at the Chittagong
States want Bangladesh to lift Representative of Cotton Council port increases the cost while also
the old fumigation rules on the International (CCI) in Bangladesh. creating much more exposure to
import of US cotton as the process price volatility,” said Faus, who is the
Bangladesh is the largest cotton
imposes an additional cost burden CEO of US cotton giant Omnicotton.
importer in the world, while
on the importers and spinners and “Cotton from the United States is
the United States is the largest
results in increased lead-time. machine picked, it is contamination-
exporter and the US share in the
American Cotton Shippers Bangladeshi cotton market is very free and it can also provide a more
Association (ACSA) President less as the latter is overwhelmingly reliable supply,” he added.
Raymond Faus recently urged dependent on Indian cotton for feeding Tim G North, who is the CEO
Bangladesh to review the unfair its readymade garment industry. of ECOM USA, said that the US
restrictions. The restrictions include cotton is independently classed by
“US cotton, however, can become
phytosanitary requirements. the US Department of Agriculture.
a bigger source of high quality,
Raymond Faus said that only US reliable cotton in Bangladesh if a Therefore, it is more reliable in terms
cotton is subject to fumigation in level playing field can be created,” of quality and characteristics.

China’s tariffs on U.S. cotton force international prices down

M M Uddin

A new report from the get worse further in the near term, Global production for the 2018-19
International Cotton Advisory potentially causing major shifts in season is projected at 25.9 million
Committee (ICAC) revealed that global trade patterns. China’s 25 tons, a 4 percent decrease year
China’s tariffs on U.S. cotton percent premium could fast the over year, according to the report.
helped drive international prices USA, the world’s largest exporter, Global consumption, however, is
down from a mid-June season- to seek new markets for its fiber, also forecast to grow 4 percent to
high of $1.02 per pound to 92 while other major exporters 27.5 million tons.
cents per pound in early July, such as Brazil are expected to fill
The cotton area in 2018-19 is
alleviating at around 88 cents a the annulled by increasing their
forecast to decrease in major
pound on strong demand in Asia shipments to China, the world’s
producing countries. India’s land
and Southeast Asia. largest importer.
is seen falling 3 percent to 11.9
Spot prices on U.S. cotton The ICAC report said that global million hectares and U.S. area is
averaged 84.44 cents per pound production has increased 16 expected to be down 5 percent to
for the week ended July 26, percent to 26.87 million tons in 4.25 million hectares. China’s land
according to the U.S. Department 2017-18, with growth from all should remain stable at 3.3 million
of Agriculture (USDA). USDA also major producers, including India, hectares, according to ICAC.
reported that the weekly average China, the U.S., Brazil, Pakistan,
Stocks in China are projected
was down from 85.14 cents a West Africa, Turkey, Australia,
to fall for the fifth consecutive
pound the previous week, but up and Uzbekistan. However, those
year to 7.5 million tons, while
from 66.58 cents a year ago earlier. increases come from expanded
stocks elsewhere are expected to
plantings and favorable weather
Sour trade relations between remain stable at 10.1 million tons,
conditions, as global yields posted a
China and the USA show little according to the report.
marginal 1 percent increase, ICAC said.
signs of improving and could even

78 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

E x p o r t Ta r g e t

RMG export target sets at $32.69 billion for FY19

Desk Report

With a 6.78% growth projection, Exporters Association of

Bangladesh government has set Bangladesh (EAB) Abdus Salam
exports target of $32.69 billion for Murshedy said that this target
the apparel sector, the lifeline of is achievable as the country has
the country’s export earnings for approved capacity in terms of
the current fiscal year. Meanwhile, workplace safety. However, the
Bangladesh has also set an overall government has to provide proper
export target of $39 billion for policy support, said Salam also a
goods for the FY19. former president of Bangladesh
and woven products respectively.
Garment Manufacturers and
Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed
In the FY 18, Bangladesh’s export Exporters Association (BGMEA).
on 8 August set the target for the
earnings from the RMG sector
Fiscal Year 2018-19. He also called for increasing the
stood at $30.61 billion, posting
logistic support at the Chittagong
“In the last fiscal year, Bangladesh 8.76% growth. Of the total amount,
port and to improve the efficiency
has been able to achieve the Knitwear products earned $15.18
of the employees.
export target of $41 billion as billion, which is 10.40% higher than
most of the sector has registered the $13.76 in the same period a Meanwhile, the Federation
positive growth except leather and year ago. Woven products earned of Bangladesh Chamber of
leather goods,” Tofail Ahmed said. $15.42 billion, up by 7.18%, compared Commerce and Industry (FBCCI)
to $14.39 billion a year ago. Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin urged the
“Considering the global business
government to concentrate on products
scenario and exporters capacity, This year we have given
diversification to meet the target.
we have set the export target at importance on products
$44 billion, of which $39 billion come diversification as well as market As of now, Bangladesh export is highly
from goods and $5 billion from the diversification, said Ahmed dependent on RMG sector. Therefore,
service sector,” said Ahmed. adding that the target would be the government has to take steps to
achievable. create opportunities for non-RMG
Of the target of goods, $32.69
sector, said Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin.
billion will be expected to come Meanwhile, Bangladesh’s export
from the apparel sector, the earnings rose by 5.8% to $36.66 He also called for looking beyond
minister added. Of the total billion in the last fiscal year, while the traditional markets such as
amount, $16.15 billion and $16.53 the country earned $34.65 billion Japan, China, Russia and Middle
billion will come from Knitwear from exports in FY17. East countries.

Transforming Human Capital

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Apparel Marketing is a vast area where many
foreign professionals are serving at this moment

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marketing by their own. Bangladeshi
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Bangladesh. Considering all, Textile Today
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R e t a i l e r s To d a y

‘India’s retail sales to cross $1,244 bn by 2018’

Desk Report

The year 2018 will see large-scale Total Retail Sales in India shopping,” added the study.
growth in the Indian e-commerce 2013 - 2018 (in billion U.S. dollars)
In other cities like Bangalore,
sector with increased participation
its population chose to buy
from people across the country.
1500 daily routine products through
The study was conducted by 1244.58

1200 1082.24
e-shopping which will go to 75%
the Associated Chambers of
941.08 this year for apparel, gift articles,
Commerce and Industry of India 900
magazines, home tools, toys,
(ASSOCHAM) and financial 600
jewelry, beauty products and
advisory services provider 300 sporting goods categories.
Resurgent India.
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 E-commerce is big business and
“Growing at a rate of about 15
Figure 1: Total retail sales in India 2013 – getting bigger every day. Online
percent and registering a double- 2018 (in billion U.S. dollars). shopping has been embraced by
digit growth figure every year, the
Indians with close to 25-30 million
total retail sales in India is likely to
adults making a purchase via the
rise from $717.73 billion during the
internet in the last year.
calendar year 2014 to $1,244.58
billion in 2018,” said a study. “The year 2018 will see large-scale
ASSOCHAM press release said growth in the Indian e-commerce
“In 2017, about 100 million
citing the study. sector with increased participation
consumers purchased online and
from people across the country.
the number is expected to cross As per the findings of the joint
This industry will continue to drive
120 million by 2020 with the rise of study, “Bangalore has left behind
more employment opportunities
digital natives, better infrastructure all other cities in India shopping
and contribute towards creating
in terms of logistics, broadband online in the year 2017. While
more entrepreneurs through the
and Internet-ready devices to fuel Mumbai ranks second, Delhi ranks
e-commerce marketplace model,”
the demand in e-commerce,” an third in their preference for online
noted the study.

Hohenstein launches new test

laboratory in Bangladesh
Staff Correspondent

Hohenstein’s new test laboratory of chemical and textile technology “I think the idea, innovation,
has been launched in Bangladesh testing and results analysis for research, and development are
on 28 July by Professor Stefan textile manufacturers, brands, and the prime move of a sustainable
Mecheels. He is the third generation retailers including screening for industry. Therefore, we should
to lead the family-run company. harmful substances, performance tests, develop and design our product.
and quality controls like colorfastness, We need process upgrading,
In the first six months, Hohenstein
pilling, and water retention. functional upgrading, increase
will invest in the construction,
cutting-edge laboratory and Hohenstein operates more than worker efficiency etc.,” said, Engr
high-quality analysis equipment. 30 branches and contact offices Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET
Then it will offer a wide range of worldwide with a workforce of at the launching ceremony.
chemical and textile technology more than 1,000 employees. The Barrister Omar Sadat, President
testing and results analysis for strategy, according to Stefan BGCCI, Michael Schultheisss,
textile manufacturers, brands, Mecheels, Head of the Research Charge d’ Affairs of German
and retailers, including testing for Institute, is to have testing services Embassy Dhaka, Naser Ezaz Bijoy,
harmful substances, performance proximity to the local customers CEO, Standard Chartered Bank
tests, quality controls (colorfastness, while providing German quality. Bangladesh; Dr. Md. Kamruzzaman,
pilling, water tightness, fiber Managing Director, Hohenstein
“In Bangladesh, we are in close
fineness, etc.), and inspections. Laboratories Bangladesh Ltd were
contact with our laboratories in
On the launching ceremony, Germany and Hong Kong,” said delivered a speech at the opening
Hohenstein offered a wide range Stefan Mecheels. ceremony.

82 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Te x t i l e C h e m i c a l s

Global textile chemical market

trend and its growth factors
In a fast fashion world, while designers are solely focused on grabbing consumer
market, designs are becoming fancier requiring more processes, increasing
textile chemical and other operational footprints down the line. This is increasing
environmental impact as well.
Akhi Akter

The textile industry is a chemicals

hungry industry that uses a variety
of chemicals in the manufacturing
processes. There are chemical
fibers which are itself produced
from chemicals. Otherwise, from
fiber to finished garments even
in packaging a huge amount of
chemicals are required.
Some may think natural fiber
requires fewer chemicals to
transform into the saleable
product but unfortunately,
they require chemicals from
cultivation to consumer level
laundry. However, in the current
article chemicals used in textile
materials and processes has been
While many initiatives have been
taken to cap the use of chemicals,
but the demand and consumption
of chemicals in the textile industry
is increasing. Any chemical will
have a certain hazard but the
industry and different control
initiatives in and around the
industry is trying to reduce the use
of highly hazardous chemicals.
The textile chemicals market was Industry insiders also opined designs are becoming fancier
valued at US$ 21.80 billion in 2016, that cheap price of fast fashion requiring more processes,
according to BUSINESS WIRE. items is increasing consumption. increasing chemical and other
Even after careful initiatives uses And the trend eventually is operational footprints down
of the chemical are increasing pushing for low price chemicals the line. This is increasing
worldwide and the global textile as garment and fabric makers environmental impact as well.
chemical market is expected to are always under pressure to
Impacting factors steering the
reach $27.56 billion by 2022 from reduce cost. On the other hand
market growth
US$ 21.80 billion in 2016, and health and environment concerns
growing at a CAGR of 3.4% from are increasing. More control Revealing the data, ‘Allied
2016 to 2022 the report said. points are being required and Market Research’, a market
so retailers are being bound research platform, highlighted
In a fast fashion world, while to promote high value less the significant impacting factors,
designers are solely focused hazardous chemicals in the value which are contributing to the
on grabbing consumer market, chain. expansion of the textile chemicals

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Te x t i l e C h e m i c a l s

market. The report said, “The

market is influenced by the
development of apparel industries
due to an increase in demand
for consumers and growth in
The rising consumer demand for
innovative and styled clothing Fast Fashion
Trend And Cheap
products is a key factor steering Demand For Fashion
the market growth in the coming Technical
years. As consumers are dumping high Textiles
garments faster for buying new purchasing
Disposable power
fashion, the consumption volume Income
is rocket high.
“Along with these factors, the
market is also influenced by the Figure: Factors, which are contributing to the expansion of the textile
increase in demand for home chemicals market.
furnishing products, the evolution
of environmentally friendly consulting company.
chemicals required by textiles Home furnishing
Industry insiders also opined that
industries, and development products, floor the cheap price of fast fashion
of packaging industries, which furnishing products, items is increasing consumption.
require a large amount of textile
medicinal and And the trend eventually is
chemicals,” said the report.
healthcare products pushing for low price chemicals
Furthermore, the demand as garment and fabric makers are
for technical textiles is rising.
are other popular always under pressure to reduce
Technical textiles are high- segments in the global cost. On the other hand, health
performance textiles used due textile chemicals and environment concerns are
to their superior properties and
market. The rapid increasing. More control points
functionality as compared to are being required and so retailers
conventional textiles. They can
growth of textile are being bound to promote high
be utilized in several end-user chemicals in these value less hazardous chemicals in
industries such as automotive, applications is the value chain.
environmental protection, sports
expected to drive the The above-mentioned factors
equipment and sportswear,
construction, packaging, healthcare,
market owing to rise collectively create opportunities
for the market growth while
agriculture, and clothing. in demand for dyeing,
factors such as unfavorable
“Rise in demand for technical coating the fabrics, effects of textile chemicals pose
textiles can be ascribed to and need for pre- limitations in the market. However,
favorable government policies and treatment of textiles. each factor would have its definite
initiatives boosting infrastructure impact on the market during the
These applications
spending, chemical manufacturing, forecast period.
etc. Hence, the rise in demand have the potential to
Dominating segment
for technical textile is expected generate high returns
At present, apparels and clothing
to boost the textile chemicals due to expected
market as these chemicals impart segment have witnessed the
rise in adoption of large-scale adoption of textile
high strength and versatility to
technical textiles, making them biodegradable textile chemicals. This segment has
ideal for application in their chemicals. a high rate of adoption in the
respective end-user industries,” textile chemicals market due to
said another report released by market in the segment is increase in demand for clothing
Transparency Market Research. anticipated to grow at a CAGR of as a result of rising fashion trends
3.8% from 2016 to 2025 to reach around the world. Moreover,
Technical textile application
a net worth of USD 930.1 million increasing incomes has fostered
segment is estimated to witness
by 2025, said a report released by the need for textile chemicals.
the fastest growth over the next
the Grand View Research, Inc., a Home furnishing products, floor
nine years. The U.S. product
U.S. based market research, and furnishing products, medicinal

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08 85

Te x t i l e C h e m i c a l s

and healthcare products are other Other major players in the industry countries.
popular segments in the global are DyStar Group, Kiri Industries
In addition, availability of cheap
textile chemicals market. The Limited, Zschimmer & Schwarz,
labor and growth in number of
rapid growth of textile chemicals Pulcra Chemicals, OMNOVA
R&D centers is directly promoting
in these applications is expected Solutions Inc., The Lubrizol
the growth of apparel industries.
to drive the market owing to a Corporation, BASF SE, CHT/
Less stringent rules and regulations
rise in demand for dyeing, coating BEZEMA Group, Clariant, Transfer
by governments also drive the market.
the fabrics, and the need for Chemicals, Sarex, and Rossari
pre-treatment of textiles. These Biotech Ltd. etc. Difficulties in market growth
applications have the potential Adverse effects of chemicals on
Dominating region in the market
to generate high returns due to the environment and stringent
an expected rise in adoption of Asia-Pacific region is the fastest
environmental regulations are
biodegradable textile chemicals. growing market in the textile
likely to hamper textile chemicals
chemicals industry and it accounts
Home furnishing applications market. These are the major
for more than half of the total
dominated the textile chemicals limitations of utilizing textile
textile chemical market size. In
market in 2015, 2016 and 2017. Its chemicals. However, recent
2017, Asia Pacific constituted a
demand was more than 3,600 kilo innovations, which embed the
key share (63.35%) of the global
tons in 2015. Apparel segment introduction of innovative ideas of
textile chemicals market in terms
accounted for over 25% of global anti-microbial, luxurious, and stain-
of consumption, as the region
revenue in 2015. resistant fabrics, thus allowing
is a major textile manufacturer
chemicals to reach a wider
Increasing usage of specialty globally. China and India
segment of audiences. Numerous
chemicals in emerging application accounted for more than 70%
players are stepping into the textile
segments such as medical, share of the textile chemicals
chemicals market with innovative
industrial, and construction textiles market in the Asia Pacific,
products. Emerging technology
is expected to further boost the according to a report released by
such as the establishment of
market growth in the next eight Transparency Market Research.
sterilized textiles is expected to
years, according to the report
Vietnam, Bangladesh, and increase the competition in the
published by the Grand View
Indonesia are also leading years to come.
Research, Inc.
countries of the markets for
The European Union implemented
Coating and sizing chemicals were textile chemicals consumption, as
the Integrated Pollution Prevention
the largest consumed product these countries were prominent
and Control (IPPC) directive
category with a total worth of exporters of the product in 2016
from January 2008, along with
USD 6,353.5 million in 2015 while and 2017. Bangladesh consumes
Emissions Trading System (ETS)
accounting for just over 30% of the about USD 800 million worth of
and regulation on registration,
global demand in 2015, said the report. dyes and chemicals every year.
evaluation, authorization, and
Printing being the last step and The Grand View Research, Inc.’s restriction of chemicals. Initiatives
more fashion could be bringing at report pointed out that in the Asia like REACH have significantly
the step, the popularity of printed Pacific, textile chemicals industry reduced the demand for textile
fabric is increasing. Hence demand is expected to witness the fastest chemicals in Europe. Various
from the printing industry is to growth and is expected to grow countries such as the Netherlands
increase significantly. at a CAGR of 4.2% from 2016 to and Germany have banned some
2025. Expansion of key textile textile chemicals that pose a
Major players in the textile
manufacturing players in the threat to the environment and
chemical market
region, coupled with increasing human health. Thus, the rise in
The global industry is discreetly domestic consumption of novel environmental concerns and
fragmented with the top five textile products is expected to implementation of stringent
enterprises accounting for over support the region to maintain its environmental regulations,
50% of the total revenue in 2015. dominance over the forecast period. especially in the European Union,
On the other hand, the top three are anticipated to hamper the
Apparels industry dominates the
players accounted for nearly 30% textile chemicals market in the
other segments in this region
share of the market in 2017. Key near future. Control mechanisms
due to increase in demand
players in the textile chemicals in the name of ZDHC and Bluesign
from consumers and growth in
market include Covestro AG, are putting a significant impact on
population especially in India,
Lonsen Inc., Archroma, BASF, Dow the ground.
China, Indonesia, and Thailand
Chemical Company, Bayer AG,
economies. Coating and sizing
Huntsman International LLC and
chemicals hold the major share
Sumitomo Chemicals Co. Ltd.
in product type segment in Asian

86 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Single knit jacquard three thread fleece circular knitting machine, with electronic needle-by-needle selection with three colours
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• Conduction of the monostables electro-mechanic finger for the yarn fingers & colours selection
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Funxion Wear Inc. wins NSF fund for

innovation in wearable smart textiles
Staff Correspondent

Hasan Shahariar, alumni of effects of fiber optics and

Textile Talent Hunt (TTH) second electronics that are embedded or
season 2010 and also one of printed onto textiles.
the co-founders of Funxion
In a conversation with Berlin
Wear Inc. and his colleague Raj
Art Link,Raj Bhakta said, “The
Bhakta have received the Small
vision behind this was immensely
Business Innovation Research
motivating and I truly believe there
Program (SBIR) Phase I grant of Figure 1: Flexible direct-write printed is a lot of value in creating not
$ 225,000 from National Science heater. Courtesy: Raj Bhakta and collected
from Berlin Art Link
only new technology but new art
Foundation (NSF) for innovation
through the fusion of electronics
in wearable smart textiles. The
by applying their unique science and textiles. A good example is
fund will pursue their work for
since they have a great cross- the ‘Pulse’ dress that our research
the further development and
functional team. group worked on which pulses
Innovation and development LEDs intertwined into a formal
They developed a high dress based on your heart rate.”
throughput 3D printing process Hasan Shahariar, during his Ph.D.
to functionalize fabrics with study, has developed a high
conductive materials. Currently, throughput 3D printing process
Funxion is running their R&D to functionalize fabrics with
laboratory in full scale in the NC conductive materials. Regular
State incubator center. textile materials are very rough,
porous and temperature sensitive,
The company is moving forward
which makes it difficult to 3D print
collaborating with world-leading
(direct-write print) patterned
companies in materials, textile
metals or functional materials
and electronics spaces. Funxion
(adhesive, dielectrics, and
is aimed to develop their first 3D
ceramic). The unique process has
printed MVP product in the form of
the throughput of 8X faster than
a smart shirt in the next six month. Figure 2: Relationship between the textiles based
the current state of the art.
wearable device and the data infrastructure for
It has a cross-functional team our internet-of-things application. Courtesy: Raj
Additionally, this process
of material scientists, chemical Bhakta and collected from Berlin Art Link
eliminates the extra steps of
engineers and textile engineers Both of the co-founders of
conventional sewing, stitching or
to realize a unique process Funxion believe that automation
embroidery of conductive yarns/
technology developed at NC State of traditional textile manufacturing
threads, and capable of lowering
College of Textiles and the NSF is happening and it is inevitable.
the manufacturing cost by
funded ASSIST research center for They want to create a positive
automating the whole process in a
self-powered wearable technology. contribution in the space
single bench-top machine.
by revolutionizing the 3D
Funxions’ mission is to go from
Raj Bhakta, who have physics and printing process to automate
Atoms-to-Apparel and transform
nuclear engineering background, manufacturing electronics textiles
the functionality of fabrics
another co-founder of the and smart textiles.
while retaining the same cost,
company has been pursuing Ph.D.
comfort, and fashion of existing In fine, textile industry profits
on the similar technology. His
apparel - offering humanity an are made up on volume sales
research focuses on the techniques
upgrade of lifestyle. The goal is currently. Nonetheless, some
of depositing and processing
to functionalize fabrics for bio- prominent revenue-generating
multiple functional materials on
sensing, passive heating/cooling, branch like technical textile, smart
the textile platform, which increase
self-cleaning and color changing textile, and electronic textile are
the diverse applications of this
use-cases. Funxion believes that still untapped. Striking research
new technology.
fabrics should do more for the and innovation, an enthusiastic
human condition and it could be Bhakta also does research on entrepreneur could boost up these
possible to transform this industry smart clothing and electronic areas like Funxion Wear Inc. doing,
textiles, where he studies the a start-up company founded in 2017.

88 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Booth No: 53, Hall No: 04, ICCB, Dhaka.
September 12-15, 2018

Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

Industry Insights

Textile Today Question of the Month

How will RMG makers cope with the upcoming wage hike?

Finally, apparel workers’

representative proposed
a BDT 12,020 monthly
minimum wage for garments
workers to the Minimum
Wage Board after a meeting
on 16 July. On the other
hand, Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA), the
platform of owners has
proposed BDT 6,360 as
minimum wage.
Year Amount in TK Asif Ibrahim Faruque Hassan,
Managing Director, Managing Director
1994-2005 940 Newage Garments Ltd Giant Group
2006-2009 1662
2010-2012 3000 Yes, wage hike is a severe Definitely workers salary
challenge for our industry right should be hiked. But, it
2013-continuing 5300 now. Most of the RMG industries should be workers and
are doing lots of investment to industry owners friendly,
Figure: Minimum wages in RMG
sector from 1994 to 2017 fulfill the requirement of Accord, and only then the new
Alliance, and other National
wage board can bring a
Now RMG workers get a Action Plans. Major international
new positive message
minimum wage of BDT brands promised that after
the remediation process they for the RMG industry. At
5,300, which is not sufficient
would increase the prices of the the same time, we need
to fulfill their minimum
product. Unfortunately, they did more efficient and skilled
standard of life. However,
not increase the price rather day- manpower to operate
hundreds of factories are
by-day they are reducing the automated technology.
being closed for several price. Therefore, in this situation
reasons including high the minimum wage will be
production cost, compliance doubled, it would be a threat of
issues and low price of the existence for many factories. So, I
product etc. Therefore, would request to the government
millers are anxious about to fix the minimum wage within a
the upcoming new minimum reasonable limit. However, we are
wage declaration for RMG already doing business in a very
tight profit margin. If the factories
workers and its impact. How
cannot achieve a minimum profit
will RMG makers cope with
then it will be difficult to survive
the upcoming wage hike?
both for the owners and workers.
Textile Today selects this as Therefore, it has to be a win-win
questions of the month for situation for both ends.
its new section ‘Textile Today
Question of the Month’. Mohammad Kamruzzaman,
Here is what some industry Director (HCM & Admin)
Windy Group
insiders told about it…
I think workers salary should be increased, but it should be such an
amount, which is helpful for both workers and factory owners. Many
factories are facing this problem in the competitive market with the
present salary structure. If wages increase to 8000 Tk many small and
medium factory will be closed. Considering the competitive market,
I think we need to increase worker’s efficiency and skills for driving automatic machinery where inefficient
workers will be eliminated.

90 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Industry Insights

New wage board is now our core challenge to sustain in the industry. Day
by day production cost is increasing and product price is decreasing. For
the small entrepreneurs, it will be very difficult to survive if the wage board
declaration comes without the governments’ help in cash incentives, low
interest of bank loan etc. Recently banks are not supporting the SME
industry, which is also a worrying thing to consider.

Hafez Ahmed Shohel, Director,

JSK Knitwear Ltd

Training on
Sustainable Use of

in Textile Industry
Date: 5-6 October, 2018
Time: 9.00 AM - 5.00 PM

 +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085
Main Content
Energy, GHG, Air Emission Management
(Energy Balance)
Steam Management
(Steam and Condensate Balance)
Water, Wastewater
(Water Balance) The program is one of the 5 training modules of
'Certificate on Sustainability Management'
Efficient use of textile material program
(Material Balance)

Mohammed Al Tauhidul Islam

Head of Compliance & Sustainability
Envoy Textiles Limited

Md. Amran Hossain

HIGG Chemical Specialist Verifier (ID: SAC 35)

Mohammad Sahadat Hussain

B.Sc. in Chemical Engineering (SUST)
Senior Consultant Dr. Hasan Mohammad Mostofa Afroz
Sustainable Development Professor
Engineering-ERI Department of Mechanical Engineering
Md. Ikbal Hossain Russel Dhaka University of Engineering & amp; Technology, Gazipur
Steam Engineering Specialist Post Doc & Ph.D (Japan), M.Sc (BUET), B.Sc (RUET)
Certified Energy Auditor (CEA-CCEB- USAID)

Jointly Organized by
Te x t i l e W o r l d

India and Vietnam target to raise

bilateral trade in apparel and textile
Desk Report

In the exhibition ‘Source India

2018’ in Ho Chi Minh City on July Vietnam exported US
17, Indian Ambassador to Vietnam,
Parvathaneni Harish, expected $178 million
worth apparels to
that, the cooperation between
India in 2017
Vietnam and India in the garment
and textile sector will be one of
the priorities in efforts to raise India exported
bilateral trade value to 15 billion apparels worth US
USD by 2020.
“It is also the industry the
$429 million
to Vietnam
Government of Vietnam and India
have prioritized to developing
and cooperating with an aim of 0 100 200 300 400 500
enhancing bilateral trade and
building a supply chain for the worth US $429 million to Vietnam, Nguyen ThiTuyet Mai, Deputy
sector in the future,” he added. which is a surge of 44% from what General Secretary of the Vietnam
Harish said, “Increasing the it was in 2016. However, Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association,
bilateral trade between both India exported the not-so-impressive said that “Despite being one of
and Vietnam in the garment sector US $ 178 million worth of apparel the five largest apparel exporters
will be among the top priorities to products to India. in the world, Vietnam is also one
enhance the social and economic of the countries that import the
Anil Rajvanshi, Chairman of the
development of both the nations.” highest amount of garment and
Synthetic and Rayon Textiles
textile materials in the world.”
Currently, India owns a strong fiber Export Promotion Council of India,
and yarn production industry that said, “India is strong in producing She also added that “While
is able to produce almost all kinds and exporting textile products Vietnam will gain from India with
of fabric and supporting materials from synthetic yarn, a material regard to the latest technology
available in the market, making fabric that is being used widely in and more textile materials and
it one of the three largest textile the world garment industry with products; India too can expand its
products providers in the world. high expansion prospects in the market. She also applauded the
future.” quality of Indian fabric.”
Meanwhile, Vietnam is one of
the biggest apparel exporters in To enhance trade cooperation, Vietnamese businesses proposed
the world that generated export India intends to export apparel that the governments of the two
revenue of US $31 billion last year materials worth US $ 1 billion in countries consider negotiations
and expects to touch US $35 coming years and has also urged on and the signing of a bilateral
billion in 2018. Vietnamese companies to actively free trade agreement to lay the
participate in strengthening trade foundation for the reduction of
In 2017, India exported apparels
relations. tariff for goods of each other.

“India is strong in
producing and exporting
textile products from
synthetic yarn, a material
fabric that is being
used widely in the world
garment industry with
high expansion prospects
in the future.”
-Anil Rajvanshi, Chairman of the Synthetic and
Figure: Vietnam and India will boost cooperation in the garment and textile sector to
raise bilateral trade to 15 billion USD by 2020. Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council of India

92 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

Te x t i l e W o r l d

‘Smart Myanmar’ to bring

sustainable consumption and
production in garments factory
Desk Report

Smart Myanmar, a four-year in a tropical climate saves energy measurements, key performance
project (2016-2019) funded by the by reducing the amount of fuel indicators can be set and
European Union (EU), has advised needed to heat the water. improvements can be targeted
garment factories in Myanmar over time via new processes and
The third recommendation is to
to reduce consumption of fuel. technologies.
consider various biomass options.
Smart Myanmar actively supports
The EU-funded project’s fourth For wastewater treatment,
and promotes sustainable
recommendation for boiler fuel the project said, “All process
consumption and production
and emissions is to consider wastewater must be effectively
(SCP) of garments “Made in
fabric scrap boilers. Special care treated to safe levels. This can be
Myanmar” – a concept with an
should be exercised to make sure done via biological or chemical
emphasis on resource efficiency
processes, but a suitable treatment
and social responsibility.
system must be in place. Although
Following on the successful It is also practical and regulatory enforcement in this
implementation of activities during necessary to make area was inadequate in years
the first 3 years, Smart Myanmar certain the steam system past, the Myanmar government is
has launched a new 4-year project is effectively designed beginning a stricter enforcement
phase which will expand and process and factories violating
and does not suffer from
accelerate some of the previous Myanmar’s emissions guidelines
activities – such as assistance to
any broken steam traps
and requirements for effluent
factories on social compliance and or separators. Among treatment are likely to face
human resources management – ten newly built factories large fines and possible forced
as well as introducing entirely new surveyed in 2017, a shutdown.”
activities related to promoting majority had mistaken in Exploring and adopting many
sustainable production and
the design and set-up of of the above recommendations
transparency in procurement
their steam systems, most benefits the local environment,
practices in Myanmar.
resulting in a substantial reducing greenhouse gas
According to the project, it is emissions and ultimately also
waste of steam.
necessary to invest in steam benefits factories by reducing
condensate recovery, a system costs and often helps additionally
that actually saves the company plastics are not being burned, but by boosting their Higg Index
money in the medium term; generally, some boiler technology scores.
however, companies are hesitant is specifically designed to safely Roland Kobia, Ambassador of
about initial investment. burn fabric scraps. the European Union to Myanmar
It is also practical and necessary The project has also said that “Garment has quickly
to make certain the steam system recommended multiple ways emerged as the star sector
is effectively designed and does to address over-extraction and in Myanmar’s economy. The
not suffer from any broken steam pollution of water. It said factories growth numbers of the sector
traps or separators. Among ten should outline water reduction are impressive, not least thanks
newly built factories surveyed priorities in the company’s to the trade preferences granted
in 2017, a majority had mistaken environmental management policy. by the EU. Exporting to Europe
in the design and set-up of their creates an incentive for Myanmar
steam systems, most resulting in a Factories must meter their water
companies and authorities to step
substantial waste of steam. usage and, hence, measure
up their quality and management.
it. Meters should be used to
Smart Myanmar has also This is a huge opportunity for
determine overall usage, but also
recommended factories to economic development provided
for water-intensive processes,
consider options for the solar that the benefits are shared among
such as with washing and
thermal assist. The thermal gain all and that the environment can
dyeing machines. Based on such
be preserved.”

94 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08

News and Analysis

Minimum wage for RMG workers:

CPD proposes US$119
Staff Correspondent

Center for Policy Dialogue (CPD) As per the study

has proposed Tk 10,028 as the findings, living
minimum wage for the country’s expenses has
readymade garment workers on 5 increased the highest
August at a dialogue on “Minimum in Gazipur as the 28%
Wages and Livelihood Conditions factories located there
of RMG Workers” held in the capital. and 35% workers of total
RMG workers live there.
Living expenses of garment
workers have seen a significant In a 2013 study, the
increase in Bangladesh. Taking Figure: Experts were speaking at CPD’s dialogue on ratio of food and
into consideration of family size ‘Minimum Wages and Livelihood Conditions of RMG non-food costs was
Workers’ on 5 August.
4.4 based on sample survey, the found to be 50:50.
38% in 2012) while 10% enterprises Now the ratio of food and non-
average monthly expenditure of
made a loss in 2016 (which was 6% food expenses is 36:64; if the
sample RMG workers is found Tk
in 2012). On the other hand, over installment is excluded, the ratio
22,435, of the amount, food costs
37% of enterprises made a profit will 42:58.
are Tk 8,125 and non-food costs is
of over 5%.
Tk 11,142. Owners’ representatives’
CPD Research Director Dr. recommendation
Khondaer Golam Moazzem According to the CPD- BGMEA President Siddiqur
presented a keynote at the RMG study 2018, about Rahman said that the wage
dialogue on the ‘Livelihood 53% enterprises made amount would be set based on
Challenges of RMG Workers: a profit less than 5% the industry capacity and workers
Exploring Scope within the Structure (which was 38% in 2012) needs. Inflation has been taken into
of Minimum Wages and Beyond’. while 10% enterprises consideration in proposing the wage.
made a loss in 2016
Considering the slowdown in “We can offer a higher amount of
(which was 6% in 2012).
profit margin of enterprises as wage but the owners are unable to
On the other hand, over
well as possible future business pay. Therefore, the wage amount
37% of enterprises made
risks such as trade war, rise in should be pragmatic as it would
a profit of over 5%.
petroleum price, rise in gas price be implementable,” he added.
etc, the proposed minimum wage
The factory owners have proposed
for newly introduced grade VI is
In other words, other than 10% the minimum salary of Tk 6,360
proposed to be Tk 10028 (US$119),
of enterprises the majority of considering the inflation rates
said Moazzem, while, it is also
enterprises made a profit at over the last five years. “The local
proposed Tk 9228 or ($110) as
different levels who are supposed manufacturers are selling a shirt
minimum wage for grade six for
to accommodate additional costs for $5 to the foreign retailers,
workers who have no children.
related to the adjustment of who are, in turn, selling the shirt
The wages for the following workers’ wages, it added. for $20 or above. Who are the main
grades would be Tk 10715 for beneficiaries of the $15?” Rahman said.
However, workers overall cost of
grade V, Tk 11786 for grade IV,
living has increased by 17% per Workers leaders urge to
Tk13319 for grade III, Tk 15317 for
year between 2013 and 2018. reconsider the proposal
grade II.
“Such a rise in expenditure Trade union leaders have urged
All types of allowances would be
is not fully explained by the to reconsider it as it doesn’t go with
proportionately increased with
rise in inflation. But adjusting the present economic situation. They
the promotion of workers- 7% for
workers wages only considering want Tk 16,000 as minimum wage.
grade V, 10% for grade IV, 13% for
the inflation rate will seriously
grade III and 15% for grade II. “The proposal is inconsistent with
undermine workers’ requirement,”
the present economic status of
According to the CPD-RMG study said Moazzem. He also opined
the country. While living expenses
2018, about 53% enterprises made that the rise in expenditure is partly
have gone up sharply,” July
a profit less than 5% (which was influenced by the rise in income as well.
Talukdar, a trade union leader said.

96 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 11, Issue 08


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