PREMIERE VISION

trend report

AW 11/12

prepared by Nelson Jaffery

Design Dept, HO

September 2010
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AW 11/12

The overall message for autumn/winter 2011/12 at Première Vision

is surprise and contradiction.

Formalwear fabrics take on a more casual aspect through laundering

and more relaxed construction,
and the casualwear sector follows a crisper, more sophisticated aspect.

A renewed interest in offbeat, often ostentatious, fantasy

and unexpected visual aesthetics makes for a highly complex
and sophisticated season,
playing on the polarities of lightness versus density, clarity versus softness,
and natural versus imitation.
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AW 11/12
Heritage Looks
Heritage looks continue to be very strong, with an interest in
classical Donegal tweeds, multi-colour and yarn-mixed
bouclé tweeds and sartorial herringbone, dogtooth and micro
geometric pattern wovens and jerseys, emulating retro and
traditional fabric looks.

Traditional archive-influenced fabrics continue to be very strong, with a renewed

interest in tweedy aspects and classical coloration
Colour-mixed bouclé and fancy tape yarns decorate fancy tweeds
More traditional checks and Donegal tweeds are enlivened by irregular and
multicolour neps and slubs
Sartorial masculine suitings in herringbone, dogstooth and micro-geometric pattern
wovens are key in chiné yarn with jersey variations offering a soft-tailoring alternative
Woollen outerwear weights have colour-blended heathery yarn and milled, softened,
raised and felted handles for a rounded compactness
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AW 11/12
Three Dimensional surfaces
3D surfaces dominate many fabric types, as quilted, pleated,
retracted and blistered structures continue to become more
voluminous, complex and provocative, from the most
sculpted outerwear types to the finest shirtings and dress
weights

3D surface effects continue to be a key focus across many fabric types -

from quilted technical performance fabrics to sculpted outerwear wool
and fluidly pleated lightweights
Quilted, pleated, retracted and blistered structures become more exaggerated in scale,
often combining matt-and-shine yarns, as performance structures
move closer to fashion fabrics
Lighter-weight shirting and dress weights have fine plissé and seersucker effects,
forming micro-dimensional textures
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Double faced aspects
Double faced fabrics were explored in contrasting
·
aspects ….weights, gauges, fibres, structures and
finishes, with clean with soft, plain with pattern or
compact with airy oppositions creating the most
directional looks.

Double-faced aspects explore contrasting weight, gauge, fibre, structure and finish

Clean with soft, plain with pattern and compact with airy oppositions create
the most directional seasonal messages

Checked and striped contrasts are seen in woven and jersey combinations,
sometimes playing on gauge and hand feel

Pigment prints on shirting checks created faux-plain contrasts

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AW 11/12
Magnified scale patten
Exploded or magnified scale macro structures have been
seen across the fair, in solid colour or in pattern contrast,
working especially well in traditional weave structures as
directional updates

Exploded and magnified-scale macro structures are seen across the fair, in solid
colour or pattern contrast, working especially well in traditional weave structures as
directional updates
Coarse gauge rovings, tape yarns and multi-plied yarn twists decorate jacquard weaves
in floating formation
Outerwear wools bear large-scale embroidery patterns
Traditional checks and stripes in simple weaves create unexpectedly
eccentric proportions when blown up in
scale
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AW 11/12
Faux real effects
Faux real finishes were in abundance, and coatings looked
newest when applied to textured surfaces such as boucle
tweeds, plush pile fur or irregularly textured plains, to
challenge visual and tactile perceptions

Blister jacquard emulates cable-knit stitches and imagined woven structures for
new trompe l'oeil effects, especially in contrast thick and thin yarns
Wet-look, oily, rubber-look and metallic coatings are key for a new luxe effect
Knit-stitch cables are emulated in print and woven jacquard form for a
playful morphing of technique
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Abstract prints
For print directions ABSTRACTION is key, as digital printing
allows for complex pictorial and photographic visuals. Scene
scapes, real and imagined inspired cosmic, surreal and birds-
eye views of sea, sky and fantastical beasts, often in
impressive scale

Impressionistic pointillism is broken down on satin, wool voile and washed silk
as well as sheer chiffon and organza types

Pattern emulates strange universes, as scene-scapes, real and imaginary,

inspire cosmic, surreal and bird's-eye views of sea, land and sky

Strange nature and fantastical beast motifs in shadowy and nocturnal colours
are manipulated, juxtaposed and distorted, combining feathers and furs with
hybrid foliage in unsettling effects
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Animal-skin effects
· Animal skin-looks continue to have a strong showing,
with naturally shaded colouration balancing the more
exaggerated textures - shaved and embossed, crimped
and curled, and shaggy and loopy effects for jersey and
woven pile fabrics. Leatherette and suede-looks are
also key for casual weights, in comfortable and
performing variations.

Wintry animal pelts and imitation shearlings inspire

shaved and embossed, crimped and curled effects
for knitted and woven pile fabrics
Shaggy woollen yarn heavier-gauge jersey and
brushed-pile mohair knits with ombré coloration
update knitwear looks
Leatherette and suede are also key for casual
weights, looking newest in patinated and
decoratively aged looks
More exotic skin influences, such as snakeskin,
are seen for embossed and pleated suedette
fabric types