Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Designed by
Pogorielova Masha (mashutkalu) (с)2012
It is illegal to sell this pattern, distribute it, or reproduce it or use any way without
the designer’s permission.
You can sell the finished toy wherever you want. I just will be appreciated if you let me know you are selling the
toys from my patterns.
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Note: this toy is crocheted in continuous spirals in bothloops wrong side out, do not join or turn if otherwise is not
instructed. Mark the first stitch of each round.
In parentheses you can see the quantity of sts in each round or the number of rounds that are crocheted without any
changes.
As the toy is crocheted in spirals it is a good idea to check whether some parts like the nose or the cheeks are on their places. It is
always possible to turn the head or the body a little so that a removed part gets its right place. The stuffing will fix the position.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
1
Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (pull up a loop and then yarn over and pull it through again)
dec – decrease (2 sc crochet together)
inc – increase (crochet 2 sc in the next st)
hdc – half double crochet
hdc.dec – half double crochet decrease (2 hdc together)
hdc.inc – half double crochet increase (2 hdc in the next st)
wh – with white yarn
dk- with dark yarn
lt – with light yarn
st(s) – stitch(s)
If the block of one color ends with decrease – draw two loops of the previous color and then draw through three loops on
the hook with next color:
Cut the yarn every time you change the color and tie the tails in pairs inside the cat and you will not have any
deformations as if you were pulling the yarn inside till you need it.
2
Front paw (make 2)
With white yarn.
Bottom
Start with white yarn (wh). Be ready to change the color to dark (dk) and light yarn (lt).
1 – 10 ch, crochet the chains around starting from the 2d chain from the hook: 8 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, on the
other side: 8 sc, 1 sc in the ch that was skipped at the beginning (20)
3
15 – 32 sc.wh, 16 sc.dk, 3 sc.lt, 4 sc.wh (55)
16 – 55 sc.wh
Do NOT cut the yarn, the body will be continued from this place
Put the paws side by side as in the photos below and sew together – 4 sts of one paw to 4 sts of the other.
4
After that put the sewed front paws in front of the Bottom part of the body (white part is front), skip 8 st after the
mark and pin the paws to the next 15 sts – 7 sts of one paw to 7 st of the body, next st of the body to the seam
between two front paws, 7 sts of the second paw to 7 sts of the body.
Insert your hook into the loop where you interrupted crocheting the bottom part and continue crocheting the body
from the same place.
Body
28 – wh: (1 sc, dec, 5 sc) on body, 1 sc between the paw and the body (in the seam or on one of the sewed sts),
10 sc on the paw, 3 sc between the paws (in sewed st, in seam and in second sewed st – or just all three sts
in the seam between two front paws),
10 sc on the second paw, 1 sc between the paw and the body,
lt: 5 sc, dec, 2 sc,
dk: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc (51)
5
33 – 3 sc.dk, 27 sc.wh, 6 sc.lt, dk: 8 sc, dec, 2 sc, 5 sc.lt (52)
34 – 3 sc.lt, dec.wh, 25 sc.wh, 3 sc.dk, 4 sc.lt, dec.lt, 1 sc.lt, 3 sc.dk, 3 sc.lt, dec.lt,
4 sc.lt (49)
35 – 4 sc.lt, 31 sc.wh, 9 sc.dk, 3 sc.lt, 2 sc.dk (49)
36 – 1 sc.dk, 4 sc.lt, 31 sc.wh, 3 sc.dk, 4 sc.lt, dec.dk, 4 sc.dk (48)
Add 6 more sc.dk, 2 sc.wh, put the new mark here. It is a good idea to stuff the paws and the bottom part now.
Continue to stuff the body while crocheting. I prefer to stuff the body when I have already done half of the head.
Just a little tip – do not stuff the bottom of the paws very tough but be very careful while stuffing theirs upper
parts and the place where they go into the body! Hold both paws together with your hand while stuffing this will
prevent your paws from going apart.
37 – 27 sc.wh, dec.dk, 3 sc.dk, dec.dk, 4 sc.dk, dec.lt, 1 sc.lt, 3 sc.dk, dec.lt, 2 sc.lt (44)
38 – 26 sc.wh., 4 sc.lt, 3 sc.dk, dec.lt, 3 sc.lt, 6 sc.dk (43)
39 – wh: 5 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) 2 times, 1 sc,
4 sc.lt, 6 sc.dk, 5 sc.lt, 3 sc.dk, 1 sc.wh (40)
40 – 40 sc.wh
41 – 21 sc.wh, 5 sc.dk, 4 sc.lt, 1 sc.dk, dec.dk, 2 sc.dk, 3 sc.lt, dec.lt (38)
42 – 3 sc.lt, 9 sc.wh, dec.wh, 7 sc.wh, 6 sc.lt, 4 sc.dk, dec.dk, 5 sc.dk (36)
Head
48 – wh: (4 sc, inc) 3 times, 4 sc,
lt: inc, (4 sc, inc) 2 times (36)
49 – 3 sc.lt, wh: (1 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 3 times, 1 sc),
lt: 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 2 times, 1 sc (43)
50 – lt: 3 sc, inc,
wh: (4 sc, inc) 4 times
lt: (4 sc, inc) 3 times, 4 sc (51)
51 – lt: 1 sc, inc, 1 sc
27 sc. wh,
lt: inc, (4 sc, inc) 4 times (57)
Now it’s time to check where your mark is. The 18th st
after the mark should be just in the middle in front of the
head. If it is not move the mark of round beginning to the
place you need.
52 – 4 sc.lt,
wh: 12 sc, 3 hdc in next st, 1 hdc,
3 hdc in next st, 12 sc
26 sc.lt (61)
6
53 – 5 sc.lt, wh: 11 sc, 8 hdc, 11 sc, 26 sc lt (61)
54 – 6 sc.lt, wh: 9 sc, 3 hdc in next st, hdc, hdc.inc, 2 dec, hdc.inc, hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 11 sc
25 sc. lt (65)
56 – 7 sc.lt, wh: 8 sc, hdc.dec, 3 hdc, hdc.dec, 3 hdc in next st, hdc.dec, 3 hdc, hdc.dec, 9 sc
26 sc.lt (63)
57 – 9 sc.lt, wh: 6 sc, 3 hdc.dec, 1 sc, 3 hdc in next st, 1 sc, 3 hdc.dec, 4 sc,
2 sc.lt, 3 sc.wh, 24 sc.lt (59)
58 – 12 sc.lt, wh: 5 sc, dec, hdc, 3 hdc in next st, hdc, dec, 5 sc
4 sc.lt, 3 sc.wh, 23 sc.lt (59)
59 – 14 sc.lt, wh: 3 sc, dec, hdc, 2 hdc.inc, hdc, dec, 4 sc, 5 sc.lt, 2 sc.wh, 23 sc.lt (59)
Cut the white yarn, you will not need it for the head. Continue with light.
62 – 5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec (47)
63 – 4 sc, (dec, 5 sc) 5 times, 8 sc (42)
64 – 42 sc
65 – (5 sc, dec) 6 times (36)
66 – (4 sc, dec) 6 times (30)
67 – (3 sc, dec) 6 times (24)
68 – (2 sc, dec) 6 times (18)
69– (1 sc, dec) 6 times (12)
Fasten off
Stuff the head, check out that the snout is also stuffed tough! Tighten the opening.
7
Feet (make 2)
With white.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Pin the feet to the bottom (the part crocheted with hdc is front). Stuff
only the front halves, sew the feet to the bottom. I stuff when I almost finish sewing.
The halves of the feet that are under the bottom should stay flat. The stuffing will be fixed with tightenings for
the “fingers” later.
Ears (make 2)
1 – 2 ch, 6 sc in the 2d ch from the hook
2 – (2 sc, inc) 2 times (8)
3 – (3 sc, inc) 2 times (10)
4 – (4 sc, inc) 2 times (12)
5 – (5 sc, inc) 2 times (14)
6 – (6 sc, inc) 2 times (16)
7 – (7 sc, inc) 2 times (18)
8 – (8 sc, inc) 2 times (20)
9 – (9 sc, inc) 2 times (22)
10 – (10 sc, inc) 2 times (24)
11 – (11 sc, inc) 2 times (26)
12 – (12 sc, inc) 2 times (28)
8
Tail
Start with white. The tail is crocheted in short color intervals so it’s better to pull the yarn inside instead of
cutting it every time.
With white:
1 – 2 ch, 6 sc in the 2d ch from the hook (6)
2 – 6 inc (12)
3 – (2 sc, inc) 4 times (16)
Fasten off both yarns, leave a dark long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail a little.
Pin the tail to the bottom as in the picture above and sew. The tail point is bended up. You can fix the tail
position alongside the body sewing the tail to the bottom with a few additional stitches.
9
Pin the ears symmetrically to the head (behind it!) as in the photos below and sew. Sew the back of the ears by
the very edge and sew the front of the ears by the 2d or 3d round from the bottom.
Make tightenings to separate the “fingers” on all four feet. It is better to do with a thin cotton yarn like DMC
Perle #8.
You can mark the places for the tightenings (two on each foot) with pins so that the fingers were about the same
size.
Fix one end of a cotton yarn piece on the top of one of the feet, pierce the foot to the bottom then wave around its
front as in the left photo below and pull through the foot, tighten and fix. Repeat one or two times more at the
same place and then a few times for the second tightening in about 1 cm interval from the firs tightening. You
should get three fingers on each foot as in the right photo below.
If your bottom part of the body is stuffed more tough than the front paw or you just made some extra effort
tightening the “fingers” and your cat tries to fall in front or just looks on its feet it can be easily corrected.
Just fix a cotton yarn piece on one of the back paws, pierce through the bottom part of the body make a short
interval without any fixing and pull the yarn through the bottom part to the second back paw. Pull the yarn and
check out how the cat stands. If it starts to look up you shouldn’t pull so hard, if it still looks at its feet tighten a
little more. When you got the position that seems perfect fix the tightening and hide the yarn tail inside the body.
(the photos are in the next page).
10
Eyes (make 2)
With 6 strand cotton embroidery floss with the color chosen by you for the eyes.
1 – 6 ch, do not join, crochet the chains around beginning from the second ch from the hook
sl.st, sc, hdc, sc, sl.st, ch, continue on the other side
sl.st, sc, hdc, sc, sl.st, ch
Do not sew the eyes to the face till the tightenings are finished (p. 12 – 13 of this pattern)
With long stitches embroider the black ovals in the middles of the eyes (a little closer to the inner corners) and
white points in the outside up corners of the black ovals. It is easier to embroider while the eyes are not sewed to
the toy but it’s more difficult to make the particular face expression in this case. So you can embroider with black
and white after sewing the eyes.
Now it’s time to make a few tightenings on the muzzle and for the eyes.
11
To make the tightenings take the same strong white cotton yarn as for the “fingers”. I use DMC Perle cotton #8.
Fix one end on the back of the neck and pull it with a needle through the head to the point where the cheeks and
the chin meet.
With two long stitches outline one cheek and then another.
Pull tightly and pull through the head to the front of the neck and fix. The muzzle will go down a little. Pull the
needle through the neck to its back and fix with a little knot (do not tighten this time!)
12
Pull the needle through the head to the point where
one of the eyes will be and then through the nose to
the point where the second eye will be (the photo on
the right) pull to make a tightening, fix the yarn.
Repeat the tightening for the nose a few more times.
Pull the yarn from the point where one of the eyes will
be through the head to the back of the neck, tighten
and fix. Pull it to the point where the second eye will
be, tighten and fix. Hide the tail.
Now it’s time to pin the eyes, choose the position that
you like, embroider the black ovals and white point if you
haven’t done it yet, sew the eyes and outline them with
you dark yarn that you used to crochet the cat.
If want you can outline the mouse with thin light yarn – one stitch between green point and blue, two or three
stitches outlining the bottom half of each cheek.
13
Tease the surface of the cat carefully with a velcro. Be very careful with the muzzle. Cut hears on the ears,
muzzle and feet short. Tease the tail more than the rest of the body. To make the cat look tidier you can cut the
points of all the hair.
Now it is time to embroider the dark strips on the head. Do them with your dark yarn with long stitches (about 3
– 5 cm). Some strips are wider, some are more narrow – make a few stitches on the same place to make the strip
wider. The strips shouldn’t be very strait so don’t worry if they are a little crooked
The strips start at the white edge of the head and go closer to each other on the top of the head. They go apart
again near the eyes. (the photos are below)
That’s All!
14