eye for cuteness

Tinkerbell Amigurumi doll

This is a pattern guide to building the Tinkerbell Amigurimi doll by Sahrit.

© 2012
Skill Level

Intermediate-­‐Advance Beginner.

Measurements

Tinkerbell's body measures 6 ¼ inch long and 3 inch wide (hair to bottom, hand to hand). You
can change her size to be a bit bigger or smaller by using threads in different thickness and
different hook sizes.

Materials

The whole doll measures about 1.5 oz/42.5 g, For each color you’ll need about 0.2-­‐ 0.5 oz/5.6 g-­‐
14.17 g yarn.

Yarn

1. CARON Simply Soft, Worsted weight 100% ACRYLIC 6 oz/170 g – 315 yds / 288m
a. Limelight -­‐ COLOR A
b. Bone – COLOR B
c. Sunshine – COLOR C
2. Sensations BEAUTIFUL Bulky #5 49% ACRYLIC 51% NYLON 1 ¾ oz/ 50 g – 71.08 yds/ 65 m
a. Off White – COLOR D

Hook

I use a steel crochet hook no. 4/0mm, which would make a size D, no. 3 ¼ mm regular US hook,
and a no. 2/0mm steel crochet hook, which would be a size between B – C, 2 ½ mm regular US
hook! (Steel crochet hooks are different then the regular ones)

Additional Supplies

• 100% polyester Fiberfill for filling

• 2 black plastic sewing buttons or 2 plastic safety eyes, 0.24 inch/6mm
• Wool/Tapestry needle
• 2 White Pom Pons size of your choice
 • Glue
• Scissors
• Stitch markers

Abbreviations
ch chain
sc single Crochet
st stitch
sl st slip stitch
sp space
rnd round
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
BL back loop
FL front loop
tr treble crochet
dtr double treble crochet
sliding
loop/ring/magic ring
rep repeat
* rep from *
** rep to here or from here
foll following
(X sc) no. of sc in a row or round
Sc2tog single crochet 2 stitches together
2sc in st 2 single crochet in 1 stitch
Notes

1. Make sure you read through the whole pattern before starting it to make sure you
understand J please feel comfortable to contact me for any questions.
2. The same pattern is used for different sized dolls. The bigger hook number the thicker
the yarn or vice versa the doll will be.
3. Tinkerbell’s head and hair are worked in a continuous round, do not join or turn unless
otherwise stated.
4. For hands, legs, and hair use smaller hook.
5. We will be using the sliding loop technique aka slipknot for circle ring aka magic ring.
Next you will find a quick tutorial on how it works.
Instructions For SLIDING LOOP

With the long side of the yarn in the palm of your

hand, wind yarn around index finger twice.

From right to left bring hook underneath the

loops on your finger and pull the yarn on the left
end through the others. Yarn over and chain one.
Carefully take out finger from ring, chain the no.
of stitches that is asked of you.

Now for the fun part! You will see you have TWO
Picture 1 -­‐ Sliding Loop
circles and a tail of yarn hanging, what you want
to do is first make sure which of the two circles moves when being pulled, then sc your stitches
and then FIRST completely pull that moved circle (which makes the other circle disappear) and
then PULL the tail of yarn and see how the magic is done! A perfect circle is made!
 Leaf (Make 6)

Foundation row: Ch 10 plus one starting ch.

Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, *1 hdc in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 5 ch, 1
hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch**, 2 sc in same last ch, continue to other side of foundation row,
1 sc in same last ch, rep from * to **, Sl st in next ch, Sl st. Fasten off.

After making 6 leafs, line them up near each other having the “2 sc in 1 st” on top (11th & 12th
st). Join color A into a 11th st of one of the leafs, work 1 sc in each of the two top stitches one
leaf after the other, join with Sl st to the first sc, switch to color B. Don’t fasten off cause you
will be continuing with the bodice with the same thread. This will create the skirt for Tink’s
dress (see picture 4). (12 sc) Weave in ends.

Chart 1 -­‐ Leaf

Picture 2 -­‐ Leaf

Picture 3 -­‐ Connecting the leafs Picture 4 -­‐ Tink's leaf skirt
 Bodice

COLOR B.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, Switch to color A, * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in
foll sc, rep from * once more, 1 sc in next sc, switch to color B, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, Sl st to
first sc. (14 sc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, switch to color A, *1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in
next sc, 1 hdc in next sc**, Sl st in next sc, rep from * to **, 1 sc in same sp as last hdc, switch to
color B, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog, Sl st to first sc.

Rnd 3: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, In the next 8 sp work BL’s only, 1 sc in
each of next 3 sc, 1 hdc in next sp, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 1 sc in foll sc, sc2tog, Sl st to first sc.

Rnd 4: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *sc2tog, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * 3 more times, Sl st to first sc. (9
sc)

Rnd 5: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *sc2tog, rep from * 3 more times, Sl st to first sc. Leave long thread
for later, Fasten off. (5 sc)

Fill Bodice with filling.

Picture 5 -­‐ Bodice

Picture 6 -­‐ Bodice with filling Chart 2 -­‐ Bodice

 Shoe and Leg (Make 2)

COLOR A. Around row 2 put your finger inside the shoe to make it more rounded.

Foundation row: ch 4 plus one starting ch.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch, continue to other side of
foundation row, 1 sc in same last ch, 1 sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in next ch, Sl st to first sc. (12 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog**, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * to
** once more, Sl st to first sc. (10 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog**, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * to
** once more, Sl st to first sc, switch to color B (continue to leg). (8 sc)

Fill shoe with filling.

For pom pon: Later when your finished with your doll Glue the pom pons to the open sp left on
each of her shoes.

Picture 7 -­‐ Shoe

Chart 3 -­‐ Shoe

Picture 8 -­‐ Shoe with filling

Leg

Use smaller hook. The leg looks like the hand but just a few more rnds, see hands chart if
needed.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, Sl st to
first sc. (5 sc)

Rnd 2-­‐ Rnd 11: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, Sl st to first sc. (5 sc)

Leave long threads for later. Fasten off.

While filling both legs with the filling, don’t fill the top 2 rnd’s so you can sew the legs to the
underwear.

Picture 9 -­‐ Shoe with beginning of leg

Picture 11 -­‐ Legs

Picture 10 -­‐ Legs

Underwear

COLOR A. Begin with sliding loop, ch 1.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (pull tail of yarn) (6 sc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, Sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in foll sc, rep from *once more, 1 sc in next sc,
Sl st to first sc. (9 sc)

Rnd 4: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in foll sc, rep from * once more, 1 sc
in each of next 2 sc, Sl st to first sc. Leave long thread for later. Fasten off.
Stuff underwear with filling and sew to bottom of skirt (in the 12 sc stitches).

Picture 12 -­‐ Bottom with filling Picture 13 -­‐ Bottom sewn to skirt

Close the top of each leg, and sew to each side of the underwear by rolled darning (place leg to
bottom two rnd’s of underwear).

Picture 14 -­‐ Legs sewn on to bottom Chart 3 -­‐ Underwear

 Hands (Make 2)

COLOR B.

Use smaller hook. Begin with sliding loop. Ch 1.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring, (pull tail of yarn), join with Sl st to first sc. (5 sc)

Rnd 2 – Rnd 7: ch 1, 1sc in same sp, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, Sl st to first sc. Leave long thread
for later. Fasten off. (5 sc)

Fill hands with filling.

Chart 4 -­‐ Hand

Picture 15 -­‐ Hands

Tinkerbell’s Head

COLOR C.

*Notice: Tinkerbell’s head is worked in a continuous round, do not join or turn. I recommend to
use a stitch marker on the first sc of the second round, or string a different color of yarn there
so you can remember when you finished working a round.

Begin with sliding loop. Ch 1.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (pull tail of yarn) (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 6 sc. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in foll sc, rep from * 5 more times. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of foll 2 sc, rep from * 5 more times. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of foll 3 sc, rep from * 5 more times. (30 sc)

Rnd 6 – Rnd 8: 1 sc in each of next 30 sc. (30 sc)

Rnd 9: *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc2tog, rep from * 5 more times. (24 sc)

Rnd 10: 1 sc in each of next 24 sc. (24 sc)

Rnd 11: *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc2tog, rep from * 5 more times. (18 sc)

Rnd 12: *1 sc in next sc, sc2tog, rep from * 5 more times, Sl st in next sc. (12 sc)

Leave the thread end long for the finishing stage. Fasten off. Stuff head with fiberfill filling (if
you decide to use the eyes with the plastic attachments first place them on the head and then
fill).

Eye placements: Between rows 7 and 8 of head pattern, about 4 st apart.

With TAPESTRY NEEDLE OR WOOL NEEDLE CLOSE HEAD by weaving through the remaining
loops and then pulling the thread.
 Chart 5 -­‐ Head

Picture 16 -­‐ Head Picture 17 -­‐ Sewn together body

Hair

Use smaller hook. COLOR C.

*Notice: Tinkerbell’s hair is worked in a continuous round, do not join or turn. I recommend to
use a stitch marker on the first sc of the second round, or string a different color of yarn there
so you can remember when you finished working a round.

Begin with sliding loop. Ch 1.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (pull tail of yarn) (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 6 sc. (12 sc)

Rnd 3 – Rnd 4: 1 sc in each of next 12 sc. (12 sc) Switch to color A.

Rnd 5: Same as Rnd 3. (12 sc) Switch to color C.

Rnd 6: Same as Rnd 3. (12 sc)

Rnd 7: working BL’s only this rnd, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in foll sc, rep from *5 more times. (18 sc)

Rnd 8: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, rep from *5 more times. (24 sc)

Rnd 9: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, rep from *5 more times. (30 sc)

Rnd 10 – Rnd 11: 1 sc in each of next 30 sc. (30 sc)

Rnd 12: 1 sc in each of next 29 sc, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc) in foll sc.

Rnd 13: ch 1, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, Sl st in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 10 sc, ch 5, 1
dtr in next sc, 1 tr in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 14 sc, 1 hdc in next hdc, ch 1,
1 hdc in next dc.

Rnd 14: 1 hdc in ch sp from rnd below, 1 hdc in each of next 8 sp, *ch 3, Sl st in 2nd ch from
hook, skip last ch, 1 hdc in next sc**, Sl st in same sp, rep from * to ** once more, Sl st in next
sc, rep from * to ** once more, Sl st in next sc, 1 BL sc in each of next 5 ch, sc2tog, sc2tog, Sl st
in next hdc from rnd below, rep from * to **, Sl st in next hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc, 1 sc
in next hdc, Sl st in next hdc. Leave long thread for later. Fasten off.

Fill hair bun with filling.

 Sew the hair to the head by sewing the outlines of rnd 13 & 14 (except where there are bangs)
in a circle. Leave the bangs hanging loose and free, then sew your way up to the bun and sew in
a circle around it to attach it to the head.

Chart 6 -­‐ Hair

Picture 18 -­‐ Hair

Picture 19 -­‐ Hair sewn to head

Wings

The wings are created in one row.

Foundation row: ch 5 plus one starting ch.

Row 1: *1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, ch 10 plus
one starting ch, Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each
of next 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch**, 1 sc in first ch, ch 5
plus one starting ch, turn, rep * to **, Sl st to hdc (see in chart 8). Leave long thread for later.
Fasten off.

Fold the wings and sew middle part to the back

of Tinkerbell (above dress).

Chart 7 -­‐ Wings

Picture 20 -­‐ Wings Picture 21 -­‐ Wings sewn to back

Finishing:

Quick step by step.

1. Sew each body part.

2. Attach underwear to dress.
3. Attach legs to underwear by rolled darning.
4. Attach hands to upper body by rolled darning.
5. Attach head to body by rolled darning.
6. Attach Hair to Head.
7. Attach wings to body.
8. Glue Pom pons to shoes. Picture 22 -­‐ Pom Pons