WIN $15,000 in Powermatic Tools p.

Projects, Techniques, and Products

Create a Great
Home Shop
With Just Two Walls!
p.20

4 All-Star Shop Projects

n Compact Workbench
n Precision Mitersaw Cabinet
n Mobile Planer Cart
n Power Tool Tower
Plus… Vol. 9/No. 54 Aug/Sept 13

n Apply a Tough Epoxy Shop Floor

n Build Time-Saving RTA Cabinets
n 12 Shop Setup Products Display until October 1, 2013
 What’sWorldMags.net
The Secret To Flawless Edge
Profiles With NO REWORK?
Freud’s Quadra-Cut™
4 Cutter Design
Router
Bits

2
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the stock for fast, extremely even when routing crossgrain in
smooth cuts. delicate materials!
Ideal for Any Project that
Requires a Flawless Finish!

For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307

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 WorldMags.net
FEIN MULTIMASTER MultiMount E-CUT Saw Blades:
The blades that make your oscillating tool better!

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WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013

Contents: Projects

38
Mobile
Mitersaw Stand
Designed for a 10" or 12" compound
mitersaw, the cabinet includes built-in
dust collection, drop-down wings
for easy storing, and adjustments
48 Compact All-Purpose
Workbench
Construct the sturdy bench base in
for customizing the fence, shelf, just few weekends. Then save time
and wings to your tool model. by buying and bolting on the 24 × 60"
laminated top. Add a pair of vises
to make your bench work harder.

55
Workbench
Tool Cabinet
Make the compact workbench work even
harder with this four-drawer cabinet.
The simple-to-make case can be resized
to fit the bench you already own.

64


Power Tower
Store benchtop machines and other
portable power tools in this 32" wide × 24"

58


Planer Cart
Give your benchtop planer a
permanent home with this two-drawer
deep × 76" high cabinet. Adjustable shelves
let you customize the interior space to suit.

mobile unit, complete with locking

casters. (Your back will thank you.)

2 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net Cover photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert

 CREATE YOUR
WorldMags.net
OWN MASTERPIECE

LAGUNATOOLS.COM
FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL US AT 800.234.1976
WorldMags.net
 Contents: Tools & Techniques
WorldMags.net

24
Epoxy Paint
Shop Floor
We team up with the experts at Rust-Oleum to show

20
The Two-Wall
Workshop
Gather in the ideas, projects,
how to prep a concrete floor, and then coat it with
an attractive, nonslip, epoxy paint and sealer.

and products featured here to

create a great home shop or to
improve the one you already own.

34
Shop Setup
Products
After equipping your shop with
power, lights, and cabinets,
consider the 12 products in
this roundup to add specialized
storage, versatility, or comfort.

Departments
06 Cutting In
08
Mailbox
10
Hot New Tools
• Micro Jig Pushblocks
Ready-To-
28
Assemble
Cabinets
• Whiteside Pro
Pen Mandrels

Get your workshop up and 14 Tips & Tricks

running in a weekend with
these made-to-order cabinets 70 WoodSense: Boxelder
from Cabinotch. Complete
the cabinets with drawers and
doors as explained here.
74
Well-Stocked Shop:
Detail Saws

4 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
Innovative Solutions for
Wood Finishing

www.mirkawoodworking.us

White Wood Finishing High Gloss Finishing Solid Surface Finishing

Mirka offers the perfect combination of net abrasives,
tools and dust extractors for a virtually dust-free
sanding solution.
Mirka’s net abrasives offer unparalleled dust extraction
across the entire abrasive surface and virtually
dust-free sanding!
Mirka’s CEROS electric finishing sanders are effective
and durable tools for professional sanding. These
machines are built for maximum dust extraction even
at low suction power.
The MV-912 portable dust extractor is a premium,
variable power vacuum that is strong enough for use
by multiple users with the optional dual operator fitting.

WorldMags.net
Mirka Abrasives, Inc. • 7950 Bavaria Road, Twinsburg, Ohio 44087 • tel 800-843-3904 • fax 800-626-6970
 Cutting WorldMags.net
In
Aug/Setp 2013

Our history of Volume 9, Issue 54

idea-filled workshops
Editor-In-Chief Jim Harrold
Senior Editors Paul Anthony
Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

W
Art Director Chad McClung
Graphic Designer Shayne Hiles

hile the effort can prove exhausting, every two years at Copy Editor, Proofreader
Sharon Hambrick
Woodcraft Magazine, the editorial staff teams up to create an idea-
filled home workshop using real-world settings. In the June/July Contributing Consultants/
Craftsmen/Project Designers
2009 issue, we featured the magazine’s new workshop in a 30 × Chuck Hedlund, Arnold Johnston, Larry Osborn,
50' enclosed space. There, we showed how to make MDF (medium- Bill Sands, Pete Stephano, Alan Turner
density fiberboard), melamine, and birch Shop Manager
plywood shop cabinets. We also worked Shawn Staats
through the steps for nailing down a
workshop wood floor and installing a Publisher Jody Garrett
small-shop dust-collection system.
Advertising Sales Manager Vic Lombard
In the October/November 2011 issue, we
took a cluttered 24 × 24' two-car garage Advertising/ Miranda Springer
Circulation Support
HOP ISSUE!
and transformed it into a hardworking
SPECIAL WORKS
workshop, complete with modular Circulation
Circulation Specialists, Inc.
Projects, Techn
iques, and Prod
ucts
flooring tiles, a workbench/assembly
ag e table, a lumber storage/mitersaw station
Extreme Gar ver
Subscriptions

Shop M ak eo combo, clamp racks, and other projects

U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year
BEFORE Single copy, $5.99
destined to instantly earn their place in customer_service@woodcraftmagazine.com
(800) 542-9125
any shop. For those starting from scratch, we
even suggested a logical order of construction, Contact Us
8 MUST-HAVE
SHOP
PROJECTS
beginning with a basic workbench/assembly Woodcraft Magazine
4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A
PLUS… Workstations &
table that provided a staging ground to P.O. Box 7020
Start-to-Finish Storage Solutions Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
■
■

■
Game Plan Cho osing the
Mobility for ace Perfect Workbench
■
complete the remainder of the projects.
Multiuse Spa
Fast forward to this August/September
2013 issue and its two-wall workshop
(page 20), designed to help you outfit adjacent walls in a garage
or basement with storage, lumber, and tools. Rather than build
an assortment of cabinets from a stack of plywood, we went with
simple, ready-to-assemble base and wall cabinets that you can
order in any size and configuration, and that go together in just
minutes. All you do is build the doors and drawers and apply
an exterior finish. In addition, we show how to lay down a two-
part epoxy floor paint to give you an attractive, hardwearing,
nonslip surface on which to work. Four featured projects round
out the offerings, including a workbench with cabinet storage,
a mobile mitersaw stand, a planer cart, and a power tower
storage unit for your benchtop and portable power tools.
If the effort we pour into these special editions helps you
improve your shop or create an awesome new shop that fills your
woodworking needs, then, hey, it’s
worth it. To see the previous shop
issues, find the digital versions
at woodcraftmagazine.com.
1-800-542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840
Email: editor@woodcraftmagazine.com
Online: woodcraftmagazine.com
Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)
is published in January, March, May, July, September
and November and printed in the United States by
Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,
Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical
Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional
mailing offices. Copyright 2013 by Woodcraft
Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send
address changes to Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box
7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:
Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
Printed in the USA
Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous.
Always make shop safety your first priority by
reading and following the recommendations of
your owner’s manuals, using appropriate guards
and safety devices, and maintaining all your
tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing
protection. Please note that for purposes of
illustrative clarity, guards and other safety devices
may be removed from tools shown in photographs
and illustrations in this publication and others.

6 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
MailboxWorldMags.net
True colors shine
in the shop
I built this router table for my son Jeff, a huge WVU
(West Virginia University) fan, who now resides
in Texas. The plan came from Woodcraft Magazine.
As you can see, I painted the table with the school’s
colors. Beside me in the photo are my son and
grandson Austen, three generations of WVU fans.
My wife and I lived in Parkersburg, West Virginia,
where we raised our family and worked in the
education system for 35 years. Recently, we moved
to Oklahoma to be near the grandchildren. The plans
were great, and Jeff loves his new shop addition.
—Wayne Meiser, Piedmont, Oklahoma

Wayne, adding school colors to your son’s router table

is a great way to remember your roots and all the
good family times cheering on the Mountaineers. Nice
touch. The table is one of our finest shop projects and
is still available through woodcraftmagazine.com.
—Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief

Salvaged treasure Gold rush

I just completed the Arts
and Crafts table lamp from
your Apr/May 2013 issue. I
used some quartersawn and
riftsawn Siberian elm that
a friend and I milled from a
tree that was destined for the
landfill. Thanks for the quick,
complete, and straightforward
project. As a bonus, there’s
enough mica in the 18 × 36"
sheet for a second lamp.
—Charles Bechtel,
Ridgecrest, California
Charles, purist builders of Arts
and Crafts pieces typically
employ quartersawn white oak.
However, your choice of salvaged
Siberian elm shows that the style
can look great in other woods
as well. Woodcraft product
8 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
development manager Ben Bice
is making a pair of the lamps
out of cherry. Like your piece,
his lamps also look impressive.
—Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
Woodcraft and Woodcraft
Magazine are sponsoring a
mega sweepstakes, offering
you a chance to win the
grand prize of over $15,000
in Powermatic tools. That’s
a shop full of hardworking,
high-quality machines! The
tools include an 8" jointer, 14"
bandsaw, floor-model drill
press, 15" planer, 10" cabinet-
style tablesaw, full-sized lathe,
turbo-cone dust collector, and
more. Three second place prizes
include $250 Woodcraft gift
cards plus two-year Woodcraft
Magazine subscriptions.
Fifty third prize winners will
receive a one-year subscription
to Woodcraft Magazine. To
enter, see the ad on page 7.
— Woodcraft Magazine staff
 WorldMags.net
PEN MAKING
Accessories

TruFit vs. Standard

Shown With Brass Tubes Inserted

“Get The Right Fit”

MADE
IN USA

TAKE OUR CHALLENGE... ULTIMATE

STEP 1: Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of your brass tube. Trim Bits
STEP 2: Measure the outside diameter of your current drill bit.
STEP 3: Compare to a Whiteside “TruFit” Drill Bit. The “ULTIMATE” Trim series brings
industrial engineered bits, previously
Whiteside Pen Maker’s Bits - 154023 - 154031 manufactured for CNC machines,
• Designed Specifically For Woodcraft Kits right into your shop.
• Tip Designed To Allow For Better Alignment And Clean Exit Hole
• 1,000-1,250 RPM Continuous Feed For Optimum Performance
• Provides Better Fit/Adhesion Between Brass And Blank
• Made In The USA From Premium M2 High-Speed Steel
154023 7mm (.272") 154028 15/32" (.457")
154024 10mm & 25/64" (.389") 154029 31/64" (.476")
154025 10.5mm & 27/64" (.412") 154030 33/64" (.516")
154026 12.5mm (.488") 154031 letter “O” (.314")
154027 3/ " (.372")
8

Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrel #2MT - 157776

• New Design Allows for Fast & Easy Mandrel Adjustment
• Fits #2 Morse Taper And Promotes A Better Lock To Lathe (A) (B) (C)
• 4-Piece Design Includes Chuck, Collet Nut, Mandrel And Brass Nut
154275 (A) Flush Trim
Available At Woodcraft! For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local 154276 (B) Pattern/Plunge
Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 154274 (C) Combination
WorldMags.net
Hot New Tools
WorldMags.net
A block with legs
MICRO JIG GRR-RIP Block Model GR-1
When feeding stock on the
tablesaw or router table, I find
that rubber-soled pushblocks
have the advantage mid-board
while notched pushsticks have
the edge when feeding the last
10 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
few inches of stock past the blade
or bit. So I typically use both.
However, stopping near the end
of the cut to switch pushers can
be dicey, and sometimes makes
for a less-than-perfect cut.
By adding flip-up
feet to their latest
pushblock, Micro-Jig
has combined the best
of both worlds. Like a
standard pushblock,
the rubberized pad
holds your stock
firmly against the
table while providing
enough friction to
Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply unless otherwise noted.
push it forward, all the while
keeping your digits at a safe
distance from the blade. At
the end of the cut, the feet
drop down to hook the end of
the board for secure, positive
purchase during the last bit of
crucial travel past the blade.
The block costs more than a
typical commercial pushblock,
but if it helps keep fingers safely
away from blades and bits at all
stages of the cut, it’s easy to see
how quickly it can earn its keep.
#856321 $29.99
Tester: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Photo: Brian Francis
 WorldMags.net
It was difficult to walk away from the
security of long-term jobs. But, we wanted to
challenge ourselves, and this was a great fit.
Say hello to Bill – experienced woodworker, savvy entrepreneur and all around
good guy. For Bill, the dream of owning a Woodcraft store started with his desire
to challenge himself and break out of the routine world he knew as a paper com-
pany executive for 18 years. That’s why when he saw a franchise opportunity ad
for Woodcraft, one of the most trusted names in woodworking, he and his wife
Heather both knew it would be the perfect fit. No wonder. From site location and
demographic research, to a detailed training program and ongoing technical support,
Woodcraft provides in-depth franchise models to assist the franchise owners in
meeting their goals. All the while being backed by the power of the most recognized
brand in the industry. If you sat down and talked with him, Bill would tell you that
thanks to Woodcraft and a lot of hard work, he’s well on his way to living his dream.
Which makes you stop and think, when are you going to start living yours?

FOR FRANCHISE INFORMATION, CALL

1.855.923.7326
www.woodcraftfranchise.com
P.O. Box 245, Parkersburg, WV 26102
Bill Caillet
Woodcraft Store Owner
Norfolk, VA

WorldMags.net
Hot New Tools
WorldMags.net
Penned to perfection
Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrels
Although it costs a few
dollars more than the
competition, Whiteside’s
Pro Pen Mandrel makes all
the difference when turning
pens. By incorporating the
same technology used to hold
cutterheads in CNC machines,
the precision machined
taper on the mandrel
ensures a better fit in the lathe adjust the shaft length for The set includes a 1⁄4" collet,
headstock. This, along with turning everything from key collet nut, mandrel shaft,
the mandrel’s overall quality chains to pens without the and brass knurled nut.
of manufacture, guarantees need for spacers. To make the
vibration-free operation. adjustment, simply loosen the #1 MT, 157777, $39.99
In addition, the redesigned collet nut, slide the shaft to the #2 MT, 157776, $39.99
mandrel makes it easier to desired length, and retighten. Tester: Ben Bice
Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply unless otherwise noted.

12 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net Photo: Bob Etter

 Square Up Your Projects
WorldMags.net
F a s t e r T h a n E v e r

New From

The New Woodpeckers Box Clamp™ is just the ticket for your cabinet
and box making projects. This simple tool eliminates the hassle of
cumbersome bar clamps and eliminates the need to continuously make
adjustments to square the corners.
Imagine being able to dry-fit all parts at the same time without any
clamps to interfere with the assembly process. You’ll know right from the
start if your project is square and be able to confirm part placement and
dimensions.
Even better, you can to do all that without a second set of hands.
Once your project is glued and clamped, you can easily install pocket Woodpeckers Box Clamps are designed for most 90 degree joints
screws from the inside or any other fasteners including pocket hole joints, lap joints, dado as well as T-joints. Virtually
from the outside. Both parts will be any joint found in common cabinetry.
square and secure from unwanted
movement. The new Box Clamp™ is also perfect for box joints, half-blind and
through dovetail joints. Whether the corner is flush or has material
extending from the surface, the clearance is there to ensure a square
corner.
When you need square corners, you can’t beat the
Woodpeckers Box Clamp™.
Made in U.S.A.

See our full line of American made woodworking tools at your local Woodcraft store.
11050 Industrial First Ave. • North Royalton, Ohio 44133 • (800) 752-0725
WorldMags.net
 Tips & Tricks
WorldMags.net Fence
2 × 33⁄4 × 31"

TOP TIP
Glue and
clamp fence
to base. Steel runner
⁄8 × 3⁄4 × 24"
Bottomless
3

Hanger

tablesaw
hole

crosscut jig Plywood base

3
⁄4 × 5 × 24"
This handy jig–which is basically
an oversized miter gauge with a
Stacked plywood Counterbore for Hex-head cap
large fence and double runners serves as machine screw screw 1⁄4-20 × 1"
for better workpiece bearing blade cover. head and washer
Tap for 1⁄4-20 threads.
and stability–lets you crosscut
large workpieces with accuracy cutting the threads with
and ease. Its advantage over a a 1⁄4-20 tap. Trim the
traditional crosscut sled is the leading edge of the base
ability to make a full-depth cut, flush and square, and
as there’s no bottom sled panel then glue the fence to it.
raising the workpiece. The With the runners in
plywood base keeps the fence their slots, measure
dead-straight and serves as a the precise distances
Workpiece
solid connection for the runners between the hole center
while allowing adjustment if points, and transfer
necessary to square up the fence. those locations onto the
The tapered ends of the fence base. Drill 5⁄16"-diameter holes at
allow better hand access for those points, also counterboring R

holding down narrow work. to recess for 1⁄4-20 × 1" hex-head

Use quartersawn hard maple or
other straight-grained hardwood
for the fence, and 3⁄4"-thick
hardwood plywood for the base,
stacking pieces at the center to
serve as a blade cover. Drill the
attachment holes through the
steel bar stock (available at www.
mcmaster.com and other metal
suppliers) with a #7 bit before
cap screws and washers. Loosely BIG GATOR TOOLS
attach the runners with the cap
screws and washers, square the
fence to the fully raised blade, and
then tighten the screws. Make a
test cut, and readjust if necessary.
When correct, you’ll get perfectly
square crosscuts every time.
—Andy Rae, Asheville,
North Carolina

Share a Slick Tip. Win Cash or a Prize!

Here’s your chance to help someone become a better woodworker V-DrillGuides
and get rewarded for the effort. Next issue’s Top Tip will receive a
Woodcraft Gift Card worth $250. Runners-up will receive $125 for an
Drill Straight – Every Time!
illustrated tip; $75 for a non-illustrated one. Winning entries become Can be used on flat surfaces,
the property of Woodcraft Magazine. Send your original ideas to: round parts and corners.
Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg,
WV 26102-7020 or email editor@woodcraftmagazine.com. www.BigGatorTools.com
Important: Please include your phone number, as an editor will
need to call you if your trick is considered for publication. 913-377-2444

14 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
Zero-clearance
base prevents
wedges from
Attach handle falling into
for safe feeding. throat opening.

Grain
Seat wedge stock in direction
Automaxx™ Clamps adjust
notch to make cut. automatically to match any thickness
Just set the clamping pressure once,
and Automaxx™does the rest!

You set
the clamping
pressure
The clamp
adjusts to any
thickness

Available in Face Clamp

Wedge cutting jig and Bench Klamp styles.

Visit www.kregtool.com
to see them in action.
When making wedged through mortise-and-
tenon joints, I need the wedges to be spot-on,
and I often require lots of them. To quickly and
accurately bandsaw multiple wedges, I use a
thick block of wood with wedge-shaped notches
cut into its side. To make a jig like this, begin
with a squared chunk of 8/4 or 12/4 scrap about
7" wide by 9" long, adding a handle for safety.
Notch the edge to match the angle of your desired
wedge. (My jig includes 3°, 4°, and 5° notches.)
The American Woodshop
with Scott & Suzy Phillips
To make your wedges, first prepare your wedge
blank by thicknessing a board to the desired Season 20 -
width of your wedges. Then crosscut away a piece
Home Restorations
that equals the desired length of the wedges. Home and Away
Next, offset the bandsaw fence from the blade a Green Energy Solutions
distance equal to the width of the jig. Nestle the Presented by - WBGU
end of the wedge blank in the notch, and then slice Public Television
off a wedge. Test-fit it in your joint, readjusting WBGU Public Television presents
13 PBS TV shows of The American
the fence if necessary to adjust the thickness of Woodshop “Home Restorations.”
the wedge to create a sharper or blunter point. Season 20 Re-creates restored furniture
accents for every home. See the innovations
When your fence is set properly, cut a few that Rebuild, Recycle and Renew
inches into a piece of plywood, and clamp or beautiful spaces!!!! Get your Tools Out!!!
Join Scott & Suzy to get the most out
tape it to the table surrounding the blade as of your woodshop tools! See new tools,
a zero-clearance base. Now cut a wedge as glues & finishes in action.

before. Then rotate the stock 180° and reinsert wbgu.org/americanwoodshop

The American Woodshop Is Underwritten By:
the same end in the notch to make the next Woodcraft Supply, Delta Power Equipment, Kreg Tool Company,
cut. Repeat to make all subsequent wedges. Gorilla Glue & Easy Wood Tools
© 2013 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved
—Alan Turner, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Illustrations: Chris Glowacki WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 15
Tips & Tricks
WorldMags.net Edging
Inflate glove with
compressed air to remove
it without tearing
or inverting it.

Taking off the gloves Squeeze opposing wedges

together under clamp bar
to apply clamping pressure
without a fight to workpiece edge.

When hand-applying finishes, I often wear

disposable gloves. Unfortunately, removing
them usually resulted in tearing or inverting
them, making their reuse impractical. One day
it dawned on me that compressed air might
help me get more life from lightly-used pairs. I
slipped the air nozzle in at the wrist and pulled
the trigger. Sure enough, I was then able to
easily slip my hand out of the inflated glove
without damaging it or turning it inside out.
—Dennis Beadles, Mount Juliet, Tennessee
Improvised edge clamp
I needed to glue a piece of edging to a panel
where it would have been awkward to span the
panel’s surface with long bar or pipe clamps.
Then I remembered a trick a friend showed
me a long time ago. I secured a couple F-style
clamps to the panel as shown, and slipped
opposing wedges between the clamp bar and
the edging to apply clamping pressure.
—Alan Wahlburg, Knoxville, Tennessee

COMPLETE THE JOB WITH THE POWER OF FORCE™

1.1 AMP ROTARY TOOL KIT ROTARY TOOL KIT -

Spindle Lock Quick-Change For Different Accessories 158538
Outer Carbon Brush Extended Lifetime
Variable Speed Professional-Looking Cuts & Finish

2.2 AMP MULTI-PURPOSE TOOL MULTI-PURPOSE

Variable Speed Optimized For Different Materials TOOL - 158539
Over Mould Comfort Grip Increased Control And Handling
Dust Tube Cleaner Work Area

7.5 AMP ANGLE GRINDER

Spindle Lock Quick & Easy Disc Changes
Side Handle More Control, Better Handling
Soft Grip For Better Comfort
ANGLE GRINDER -
158540
Available at Woodcraft! For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your
Local Woodcraft Store, Visit www.woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153.

3939 Royal Dr., Kennesaw, GA 30144 T 1-866-902-9690 W W W. F O R C E T O O L S U S A . C O M

16 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net

New product ™

Solid Body Fit Thread Sizes: 1”- 8, 1 1/4” - 8, and M33 - 3.5

Other Easy Chuck

exclusives:
Snap-Lock™
Hardened jaws and jaw slides
S LT will last for generations
Rounded jaw corners for
Change out jaw sets in safety that will not cut your
under 30 seconds and get knuckles
Jaws are not numbered
right to your next project They can go in any slot
Strong jaw design
uses no screws for
mounting
Quickly adjust the gripping
diameter with just your fingertips!
Then final tighten with included chuck key

See videos at www.woodturning.com | 1-866-963-0294

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 17
 WorldMags.net

18 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net

The Fine Art Of Japanese Joinery Begins With Excellent Tools

Japan Woodworker offers the carefully designed and crafted tools required for the functional yet very
beautiful art of Japanese joinery – saws, planes, measuring and marking instruments, chisels and more
– all made of the highest quality steels and other materials to complement the woodworking artisan’s
skills. Visit JapanWoodworker.com to see our selection or call 1-800-537-7820 to receive a catalog.

WorldMags.net
For more great tools visit www.japanwoodworker.com or call 1-800-537-7820. 13WD09P4
 WorldMags.net
The Two-Wall Workshop
Transform a garage or basement with this
smorgasbord of ideas and projects.
By Jim Harrold

24 Nonslip Epoxy
Paint Surface

28
Ready-to-Assemble
Cabinets Save
Time and Money
These made-to-order cabinets by Cabinotch
let you build a wall of storage in a weekend
or less. Just add doors and drawers.
20 WorldMags.net
for $600
Prep the concrete, mix and
roll out the epoxy paint, and
seal the surface in three
days for a hardwearing,
attractive shop floor.
 WorldMags.net

48 Sturdy,
Compact
Workbench
65 Versatile
Power Tool
Tower
Customize this wheeled cabinet
to your arsenal of portable
Two vises, dog holes, a solid tools by adjusting the shelves
base, and cabinet storage make up or down as needed.
this a workshop workhorse.
Save time by going with a
store-bought laminated top.

58 Back-Saving
Planer Cart
with Storage
Give your benchtop planer a
permanent home, and avoid
38 Mobile Mitersaw
Stand with Built-in
Dust Collection
This shop-smart cabinet features work
support wings, fences with stops, and multiple
the heavy lifting and carrying adjustments for super accurate cutting.
of the machine with this
two-drawer mobile unit.

Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert WorldMags.net

21
 WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Wiring and Lighting Plan
House 2-bulb (60w)
storage T-8 fixtures 
shelves
Attached
house
Existing light
switch
Note: All wall receptacles
W
are 48" above floor.
elcome to Woodcraft
Magazine’s third workshop-
themed issue. Like the previous
ones, we packed our featured
“Two-Wall Workshop” issue with
a multitude of adaptable ideas,
projects, and products to help
you improve the shop space you
already have or create a whole
new shop from scratch. You’ll
find that many of the ideas will
save you time, money, or, in some
cases, space. They’ll also help you
get organized and get your shop
up and running in short order,
The concept behind the two-
wall workshop is that every
woodworker has–if not a whole
room–at least two walls in a
garage, basement, or other
area that he or she can claim as
shop space. As shown on pages
20 and 21, we’ve dedicated a
25'-long wall at the back of a
garage for shop storage and to
provide valuable counter space.
22 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
Radiant space
heater (30" long)
6'
Smoke and
fire alarm
16'-wide garage door
220V single receptacle
Prominent here are the ready-to-
assemble Cabinotch cabinets that
you literally build in minutes,
and the heavy-duty Duraboard
polypropylene pegboard
system, complete with hooks,
specialized hangers, and bins.
The adjoining second wall
serves as the place to store
lumber and park mobilized
machines when not in use. It's
here, for instance, where you
can store your tablesaw, mobile
dust-collector, and bandsaw.
Providing a sure grip
underfoot, even when coated
with fine sawdust, is the nonslip
epoxy floor paint (on concrete)
by Rust-Oleum. Decorative color
chips in blue, black, and white
add interest and texture to the
surface, while a special sealer
offers long-term protection.
Assuming that most of the
woodworking will take place in
the back half of the garage, we
1' 100 amp
26" 4' sub panel
200 amp house
service panel
8'-wide garage door
New 110V duplex receptacles,
switches, and lights
Existing 110V duplex receptacles,
switches, and lights
ramped up both the electrical
and lighting output in that area,
as shown in Figure 1. To do this,
we had a certified electrician
install a 100-amp subpanel, three
220V single receptacles, five
110V duplex receptacles, and five
2-bulb fluorescent ceiling fixtures
that mimic natural daylight.
These improvements are on top of
the existing 110V wall outlets and
two fluorescent ceiling fixtures.
To further improve the space,
our senior editors and two
talented freelancers designed
and constructed four all-star
shop projects to fill a variety of
common needs. They include
a mobile mitersaw stand,
compact workbench, planer
cart, and power tool tower.
Finally, for further
assistance, check out the
“Dream Shop Planner” (pullout
insert) and “Shop Setup
Products” (page 34). n
Illustration: Charles Lockhart
 WorldMags.net
You’ve read the story.
Now try it for yourself!
The Cabinotch® custom cabinet box system.
American-made, formaldehyde-free, custom-
sized, with nine hardwood species options.

Exclusive patent-pending assembly

notch creates a strong, flush joint
that slides together fast!

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Visit www.cabinotch.us/woodcraft today and

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CFP018_Woodcraft_Ad(3.125x4.625).indd 1 6/13/13 3:46 PM

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 23
 WorldMags.net

Epoxy Paint Shop Floor

Achieve a showroom-quality surface in just three days.
By Gary Lombard with Jim Harrold
Consultants: Rust-Oleum

W hether in a garage (shown

here), basement, or dedicated
outbuilding, concrete floors
for home shops are the norm,
far exceeding the number of
wood floors. And while concrete
provides a flat surface on which to
roll mobilized tools, it can absorb
drips and spills from motor
oil, woodworking stains, and
other liquids. Another problem:
Smoothly troweled or sealed
concrete can prove slippery when
coated with fine sawdust. Beyond
that, its look is not all that great.
To remedy these issues, consider
laying down an attractive two-
part epoxy paint and sealer on
your concrete that lets you easily
wipe up spills, sweep up dust, and
provide a sure grip underfoot.
Plus, when you do the installation
yourself, big savings are in store.
24 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
To properly follow through
on the prep and installation
The resulting showroom-quality
surface promises a lifetime of
for the featured workshop in wear-resistant good looks.
this issue, I and Jim Harrold In all, the work took one full
teamed up with the experts day for prepping, two-thirds of
at Rust-Oleum to lay down a a day for painting and adding
tough two-part epoxy paint the decorative color chips (for a
(EPOXYSHIELD Professional terrazzo-like appearance), and
Floor Coating Kit) and sealer two hours on the third day for
(EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear rolling out a sealer containing
Floor Coating Kit), capturing a nonslip additive. Full cure
the steps from beginning to end. takes at least three more days.
Tools for the Job
From prepping to painting to final sealing, laying down a two-part
epoxy paint and sealer on a concrete shop floor requires a few
common tools. These include a good scrub brush, five-gallon bucket,
plastic watering can, floor squeegee, chemical/liquid-resistant latex or
rubber gloves, eye protection, paint-mixer attachment for a cordless
drill, roller pan, pan liners, an epoxy-safe 1⁄2"-nap paint roller, roller
extension handle, and a 3" utility nylon paintbrush.
Test the WorldMags.net
concrete
Before buying a two-part epoxy
floor paint kit, analyze the
condition of your concrete to
see if it meets the requirements
and to determine the prep work
approach. Moisture in the slab,
a previously applied sealer, a
poorly bonded painted surface,
poorly cured spalling concrete,
and oil stains all pose adhesion
problems for epoxy paint. Some
can be fixed; some can’t. Let’s
deal with these one at a time.
Moisture
Certainly, if the concrete contains
moisture, you shouldn’t paint
it. To test for moisture, tape
a 3 × 3' piece of 1 mil plastic
sheeting to the floor and let
it sit for 24 hours. Then peel
it up, as shown in Photo A.
Sealed surface
To see if the concrete is sealed,
conduct the test in Photo B. If
the test proves positive, grind
the surface to remove the sealer.
Unsealed surface
If the concrete proves unsealed,
chemically etch the surface to
clean it. (With newly poured
dry concrete, skip the grinding
and etching steps, provided
Day 1: Prep
the surface
Once you have established that
the floor is a candidate, follow
through with the appropriate
strategy, keeping in mind that
preparation is critical to a
well-bonded epoxy paint job.
With an existing (versus new)
concrete floor, patch any holes,
Opener: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Staff
A B
Remove the plastic sheeting to see
if water beads cling to the bottom
face, or if a dark shadow appears
in the concrete–both telltale signs.
the slab has been allowed
to cure for a minimum of
28 days before coating.)
Painted slab
To test the adhesion of an existing
paint slab, incise a small X on the
surface, and stick a piece of duct
tape over it. Pull off the tape to
see if some paint came with it. If
so, the bond is suspect, and the
floor will need surface-grinding
to remove the paint. If the paint
does not come off–meaning it
is well bonded–scuff-sand and
clean the surface to prep it.
Poorly cured or
damaged concrete
For poorly cured or loose
concrete, repair the surface with
a concrete patch product, and
clean it thoroughly to remove the
cracks, or chipped areas with a
nonflexible concrete patching
product (found at home centers).
For oil stains, scrub the surface,
as shown in Photo C. After, use
the same scrubbing approach
to etch an unsealed floor.
To etch an unsealed floor,
mix up a solution of one part
phosphoric acid to four parts
water in a plastic watering can.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 25
Pour water onto the concrete to
see if it is absorbed or if it sits or
beads on the surface. If the water
sits, the concrete is sealed.
dust. (One patch product is Rust-
Oleum’s EPOXYSHIELD Concrete
Patch and Repair Kit.) This two-
part epoxy-based patch dries
fast, resulting in an extremely
hard surface. If surface erosion
resulting in excess concrete dust
and spalling persists–even after
cleaning–do not paint the floor.
Oil stains
Motor oil drips and stains
from autos, lawn mowers, or
other sources create areas on
a concrete floor that resist
adhesion. Dispense with the
problem as explained under
“Day 1: Prep the Surface.”
C
Using EPOXYSHIELD Heavy-Duty
Degreaser, scrub stained areas with
a stiff bristled brush. Rinse clean.
 WorldMags.net
D E
Grind the sealed floor along the
walls with an industrial-grade
orbital sander and 60-grit discs.
Pre-wet the floor, and then,
working from back to front, scrub
the entire surface in manageable
10 × 10' sections. It should
fizz slightly from the chemical
reaction. When the fizzing stops,
rinse the surface clean. Rinse
and scrub the floor three times
to achieve the cleanest possible
surface, one that is free of all
Abrade the open floor with the
floor grinder, working in one
direction; then cross-grind at 90°.
dirt and contaminants. For best
results, use a foam or rubber
floor squeegee to remove the
rinse water from the surface. Let
it thoroughly dry for 24 hours.
Be sure to wear eye protection
and gloves when prepping and
cleaning the floor with chemicals.
To prep a sealed floor, sand the
surface with an industrial orbital
disc sander and a floor grinder
having 60-grit abrasive stones.
Rent these for about $100, and
use them as shown in Photos
D and E. Wear a dust mask and
hearing protection, and use a
shop vacuum to gather floor dust.
Open all doors and windows, and
use fans to exhaust dust-filled air
to the outside. Vacuum the floor
several times for the cleanest
possible surface, and wash it.
Because constant daily
sunlight will cause a two-part
epoxy coating to yellow and
degrade, plan the floor coating
to align with the inside edge of
the garage door. To do this, mark
and lay down strips of duct tape
along the line to establish the
border between the driveway
and garage/shop floor. Note that
if you leave the garage door open
and regularly expose the floor to
sunlight, the epoxy coating will
become damaged over time.

Day 2: Mix and apply the epoxy paint

Ensure that the workspace
is properly ventilated and
that the room temperature is
between 55 and 90 F°. Turn off
pilot lights to any nearby hot
water heater, furnace, or other
source of ignition. Pour part B
into a five-gallon bucket, and
then pour in part A, blending
the parts as shown in Photo F.
A two-gallon mix lets you do a
300-square-foot space or about a
one-car garage. On larger floors,
mix larger quantities of the A
parts and B parts separately,
and then mix equal amounts
F of the parts together when you
Mix the two parts of the epoxy are ready to continue covering
paint for 3 to 5 minutes using a the floor. This guarantees that
paint-mixer accessory (found at the color remains consistent
home centers) and a cordless drill. across the floor. After mixing,
26 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
allow the ingredients to sit
for 30 minutes in order for
them to chemically combine.
Ideally, coating the floor with
epoxy paint and chips is a two-
person job–one to cut in along
the walls and broadcast the chips
and one to roll out the floor.
Don’t expect to take a break.
Following the 30- to 60-minute
induction process, depending
on the air temperature (see
instruction sheet for more
information), you have just 90
minutes to apply the mix.
Begin painting by cutting in 4'
along the corner walls, as shown
in Photo G. Next, roll out a 4 × 4'
section in the same area, as shown
in Photo H, working toward a
door opening as an exit strategy.
 WorldMags.net

H I
G Roll out the floor in a manageable Broadcast chips by the
Use a brush to cut in 4"-5" from 4 × 4' patch with a solvent- handful over the painted area with
the wall in 4'-long bands while resistant paint roller having an underhand motion, letting them
working out of a small paint pot. a 1⁄2" nap and plastic core. float down and blend in evenly.

Before moving to the next
section, toss the decorative
color chips up and away from
you so they land flat on the wet
paint film. You want the chips
to be distributed evenly onto
the painted surface, as shown in
Photo I. Determine the level of
chip coverage for the look you
want (Photo I Inset). Repeat
until you’ve painted the entire
floor and dispersed the chips.
Let the floor cure for 24 hours.
Be careful to contain chips in
each painted section as you
work so you don’t get any on the
roller or unpainted surface.

Day 3: Roll on Before sealing the painted Floor Coating). Now, as before,

a slip-resistant floor, mix in the slip-resistant

ingredient (EPOXYSHIELD Anti-
cut in with a brush and roll out
the floor with the sealer, as
sealer Skid Additive) into the sealer
(EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear
shown in Photo J, following the
precautions mentioned earlier.
Let the sealer cure for at least
24 hours before walking on it.
Do not drive on the surface for
another three days to allow for a
complete, undisturbed cure. n

Costs and Savings

To paint and seal this garage
floor, a 600-square-foot area,
we used two EPOXYSHIELD
Professional Floor Coating
kits (four gallons total), three
J EPOXYSHIELD Premium Floor
Coat the two-part epoxy painted floor with a protective, slip-resistant Coating Kits (as the sealer),
sealer using a clean roller and working in manageable sections. a rented grinder and orbital
sander, rollers, brushes, and
Special thanks to Don Evans, Mike Ortiz, Robert Shoenberger, and miscellaneous materials for a
Brendan Steidle at Rust-Oleum for serving as technical consultants do-it-yourself cost under $600.
during the floor installation. For more on the products featured here, To have the floor professionally
visit rustoleum.com or call (888) 683-5667. done would cost about $2,000.

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 27
 WorldMags.net
Ready-To-Assemble
Cabinets
Outfit your shop in a weekend or less.
By Gary Lombard with Jim Harrold

W hile creating a two-wall

or larger shop (or a kitchen, for
that matter) with a variety of
storage cabinets that you design
and make seems daunting and
time-consuming, it doesn’t have
to be. What if you could address
your shop’s storage needs in a
few short days? Enter Cabinotch,
a cabinet box system consisting
of made-to-order base and wall
cabinet parts that you assemble
in minutes with glue and a nail
gun. Better still, you can order
just the cabinets you need in
any size, configuration (door
and drawer openings), and from
several wood choices. For this
issue’s featured workshop, maple
plywood box parts and maple
hardwood face frames were used.
While the cabinets–once
constructed–include a UV
finished interior, drilled holes for
supporting shelves, and edged
and finished shelves, it’s up to
you to construct and add the
doors and drawers and finish the
exterior. The end result: big-time
savings in both time and money,
while allowing you to assemble
and hang a shop full of quality
cabinets in a weekend or less.
I learned firsthand just how
easy it is to build and hang
attractive, strong, and perfectly
square shop cabinets in my
shop when I used the Cabinotch
system and its builder-friendly
joinery. Over the next few pages,
I’ll share with you how I did it.
28 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Note: To view your cabinet
options or to order cabinets
like the ones shown here,
go to cabinotch.com or call
(877) 413-4299. At the website
check out the videos about the
Cabinotch system construction.

Super-fast assembly
Note: Here is what you’ll need
for a guaranteed hitch-free
assembly and installation: a flat
assembly surface such as a floor
or assembly table, woodworker’s
glue, moistened rag and clean A
water to deal with squeeze-out, With the face frame clamped to prevent movement, slide in the
rubber mallet, four bar clamps, interlocking sides, ensuring that the ends are flush top and bottom.
square, compressor, 18-gauge
brad nail gun with 11⁄4"-long brads,
cordless drill and square drive
bit, #8 × 3" screws, measuring
tape, stud finder, and level.
1 Lay out the cabinet parts on
a flat assembly surface with the
sides alongside the face frame.
Now, apply a moderate bead of
glue in the face-frame grooves.
Stop short about 6" from the end
of the groove. The excess glue on
the leading edge of the sliding
side should spread to this area.
Next, slide in the sides, as shown
in Photo A and Photo A Inset. B
Wipe up any squeeze-out with a Align and slide the cabinet top and bottom in the mating grooves,
rag moistened in clean water. using a mallet to gently tap and seat the parts as needed.
2 Apply glue in the mating
grooves, and slide in the bottom
and top, as shown in Photo B.
3 Apply glue and fit the back
in the side rabbets. Then, using
an 18-gauge nail gun, shoot
the back in place with 11⁄4"
brads, as shown in Photo C.
(I measured in to locate the
centers of the back edges of the
cabinet’s top and bottom and
struck a guideline to ensure
that the nails hit pay dirt.)
4 With base cabinets, glue
B
and nail the cabinet screw
cleats in the side top rabbets Use clamps to snug the sides to the back and check for square. Then, nail the
for attaching a countertop. back in place, holding the gun perpendicular to the mating plywood edges.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Morehead Photography woodcraftmagazine.com 29
 WorldMags.net

D E
Using a coping sled to hold the workpiece firmly in With a featherboard hold-down in place, profile
place, cut or cope the end of the test rail, keeping it in the inside edges of the rails and stiles, using a
contact with the router fence and/or the bit bearing. shoe-style pushstick to safely make the cut.

Figure 1: Frame & Panel Overlay Door Exploded View Adding doors and drawers
1 Mill enough hardwood stock
to 3⁄4" thick for the door frames
and the drawer fronts for the
assembled cabinets. Mill extra
stock for test pieces to set up
the rail and stile router bits.
3" Next, rip the rail and stile door
stock to 11⁄2" wide. The goal
is to create door frames that
overlay the cabinet face-frame
openings by 1⁄2" all around. On
a 13 × 29" face-frame opening,
Note: Size door to for instance, you’ll want a 14 ×
overlay face-frame 30" door frame. At this point,
opening by 1⁄2" all
around. Locate plan all of your door sizes
11⁄2" hinges 3" in from top and the number needed.
and bottom edges
of door frame. 2 Crosscut the rails to length.
If using a rail-and-stile bit set
Rail Stile as suggested here, take the
inside opening measurement
from stile to stile of the planned
door and add the depths of
both opposing grooves. That
dimension will give you the
rail length, including the
interlocking coped ends. Next,
crosscut the needed number of
stiles to length, plus 1". Crosscut
a few router setup test pieces.

Make shoulder
3 Install the coping bit of a
and groove offset rail-and-stile bit set in a table-
the same height. mounted router, and adjust its
30 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
height to cut the coped ends of
the door rails. (Because I used
Figure 2: Crosscut Sled
a coping sled for safety and
workpiece control, I needed to
raise the bit to account for the
thickness of the coping sled
base.) Next, use the edge of a rule
to adjust the infeed and outfeed
fences to be perfectly in line with
the bit’s bearing. Finally, using
a coping sled, make a cut in one
pass on the end of a test rail
piece, running it past the cutter
outside face down, as shown in
Photo D. Note the rail-and-stile
end views and bits in Figure 1
for reference. Adjust the bit up
or down as needed to match the
profile. Once satisfied, rout the
ends of the door rails with the
outside or best faces down.
4 Switch to the stick bit in your
router table and, placing a test
stile piece outside face down
against the fence, cut the inside
edge in one pass, using a shoe-
style pushstick for safety and
control, as shown in Photo E.
Test-fit the piece against a rail.
Adjust the bit height if needed.
Now, rout the inside edges
of both the rails and stiles.
5 Make marks 1⁄2" in from the
ends of the stiles indicating the
total door length. Dry-fit the
rails and stiles of a door frame,
aligning the outside edges of the
rails with the marks. (Later, in
Step 8, I’ll trim off the excess
to achieve a perfectly square
door with flush joints.) Now,
measure the distance from the
Step 3: Angle fence
Step 1: Cut plywood with front edge of
base to size, ensuring base and attach.
the piece is square. Fence
3
⁄4" × 7⁄8" × length of base
Base
1
⁄2 × 14 × 21"
(Final length determined
after trimming end of base.)
Step 2: Cut runner 90°
to size; attach at
90° to front edge
of base. Locate so
end of base extends #8 × 1"
beyond blade by 1". flathead screw
#6 × 1⁄2" Step 4: Run sled through
flathead screw saw to establish a
true cut-off edge.
Final distance between
Runner runner and end of base
1
⁄4 × 3⁄4 × 30" determined when base
(Adjust to the dimensions is trimmed to length.
of your miter slot.)
F
Align the outside edge of a door with the cut edge of the sled, and
trim off the proud ends of the stiles one door corner at a time.
7 Make the panel sled in boxes 1" smaller than the
Figure 2. To customize the sled width of the opening. I made
to your saw, run it through the the height of the drawer boxes
blade to establish a true edge. 1⁄
2" shorter than the height

rail and stile groove bottom
to opposing groove bottom.
Subtract 1⁄8" in each direction
from these length and width
dimensions to determine the
size of the door panels.
6 From 1⁄4" plywood, cut a
door panel to size and test-fit
the door assembly. Cut any
remaining door panels to size.
Illustrations: Christopher Mills
8 Glue and clamp the rails to the
stiles with the panels in place,
aligning the outside edges of
the rails with the marks made
earlier on the stiles. Check for
square. Once the glue dries, trim
the door ends using the panel
sled, as shown in Photo F.
9 To make the overlay drawers,
see page 61. (I made the drawer
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 31
of the drawer openings. For
the drawer depths, I used the
lengths of the slide hardware.)
10 Finish-sand the outside
of the cabinets, face frames,
and doors to 220 grit. Now,
apply your choice of finish.
(I sprayed on two coats of
General Finishes Polyacrylic
Water-Based Top Coat.)
 WorldMags.net

G H
With the cabinet held to the wall, drive With the cabinet face frames aligned top and bottom
the screws through the clearance holes and flush, drill pilot holes, and then drive 21⁄2"
and into the wall studs using a drill. screws through one face frame and into the other.

Installing the cabinets
1 Establish the height on the
wall above the floor where you
want to hang your wall cabinets.
(I hung my cabinets 18" above
the base cabinets.) Strike a level
horizontal line on the wall at this
location. Strike a plumb line that
intersects with the horizontal
line, indicating where you want
the outside edge of the cabinet.
2 Locate the wall studs in the
area where you intend to hang
the wall cabinet, using a stud
finder. Measure from the plumb
line to the stud location, and use
this distance to mark the stud
locations on the inside face of
the cabinet back. Drill clearance
holes at these locations.
3 Using a helper to hold the
cabinet in place, drive #8 × 3"
screws to secure it to the wall,
as shown in Photo G. Double-
check the cabinet’s position after
driving the first screw. Adjust
as needed, and then drive the
remaining screws. Don’t have
a helper? Consider temporarily
screwing a leveled ledger to
the wall to support a cabinet
while you screw it to the wall.
4 To hang wall cabinets side by
side, first hang one cabinet with
screws. Then, clamp the next
cabinet to the secured cabinet
using cabinet clamps, as shown
in Photo H. Check for plumb and
the overall fit before securing
it to the wall. You may need to
shim the cabinets along the back
to flush them along the front.

I J
With a helper holding a cabinet door and Level the base cabinets with shims wedged
hinges in place while resting it on the spacer, between the floor and the cabinet’s bottom
drive the screws to secure the door. edges, snapping off any excess.
32 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
5 Add a pair of hinges to the
doors 3" in from the top and
Figure 3: Countertop Cutaway
bottom edges. Clamp a spacer to
the lower rail 1⁄2" down from the
face frame opening to support
the door during installation. Rest
the door on the spacer, and fit
the hinges in place. With a 5⁄32" ⁄4" layers
3

of MDF
Vix bit, drill the pilot holes in the
face frame edge, centering them
in the hinge slots. Apply wax or
bar soap to the screw threads
to ease driving the screws, and
secure the door to the cabinet,
as shown in Photo I. (Also see
the Tip Alert below.) Note that ⁄4" maple
3

edging
the slots allow you to adjust the
doors up and down as needed.
6 To install a base cabinet,
level it from side to side and
from front to back. Use shims, as
shown in Photo J, to make any through the cabinet’s stretchers 8 Insert the shelf pins
adjustments. Then screw the to secure it. (You may need to in the cabinets where
cabinet to the wall studs. Cut a scribe and trim the back edge for desired, and install the
toekick plate from 1⁄2" plywood, an uneven wall.) Finally, seal the 3⁄
4"-thick edged shelves. n

and nail it to the cabinet to top with multiple coats of wax.

cover any unsightly gaps
between the cabinet and floor.
Thank You!
7 Make or buy a countertop
A special thanks to our friends at Cabinotch Cabinet Box System
for the base cabinets. I sized
the countertop and edging to for supplying the cabinets for this issue’s featured workshop.
allow for a 2" overhang along
the front and ends for clamping.
For my countertop, I started Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
with two oversized panels of 1. Whiteside Straight Stile and Rail Bit Set, #820246 $114.99
4" MDF. I applied glue, clamped 15⁄8" OD × 7⁄8" CL, 1⁄2" SH
3⁄

the panels together, and drove 2. (Optional) Woodpecker’s Coping Sled #151148 $139.99
screws through the bottom panel
and into the top panel for a full 3. General Finishes Polyacrylic Water-Based Top #85T56 $20.99
Coat, Satin, 1qt.
bond. I trimmed the countertop
to size and attached 3⁄4 × 15⁄8" 4. Highpoint #8 × 3" Square-Drive Screws, 100/pkg. #611211 $11.89
edging strips of maple. (See Highpoint #8 × 21⁄2" Square-Drive Screws, #611210 $9.09
5.
Figure 3 for reference.) Put the 100/pkg.
top in place, and drive screws
6. Pony Cabinet Claws, 2/pkg. #128247 $87.99

Tip Alert 7. Amerock Self-Closing Overlay Hinges,

⁄2" Brass, 2/pkg.
1
#130132 $7.99

When driving brass screws into 8. Amerock Pull, Brass #130144 $4.99
a hardwood , consider pre-
9. Shelf Pins, 1⁄4" Brass Plt, 25/pkg. #27I11 $3.25
threading a pilot hole for the
brass screws using a steel screw. Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice.

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 33
Shop Setup ProductsWorldMags.net

Make your space work smarter, better, with these 12 items.

By Jim Harrold

W hile this issue offers lots to build in order

to create a great home workshop, keep in mind
that there’s plenty you can buy to further the
effort. Included in this variety pack of problem
solvers are wall boards, containers, and racks
for specialized storage, tables and stands, and
items aimed at improving the comfort level of
your favorite getaway. Note that items with a SKU
number can be purchased at Woodcraft stores,
woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 225-1153.

Durable Wall Storage

Triton Products’ Duraboard wall storage solution
does flimsy hardboard pegboard one better with
its strong 1⁄4"-thick polypropylene panels that
can hold three times more weight. Waterproof
and impact-resistant, the 2 × 4' panels can be
sized at the tablesaw. To make outlet openings,
use a drill to bore blade-start holes and a jigsaw
to cut out the waste. Along with two panels, the
kit includes panel-hanging hardware, a 48-piece
assortment of hangers, and plastic bins.

#412029 $149.99

Folding-Table Frame
This wall-mounted metal
stand by WoodRiver
comes in at workbench
height (around 34") and
includes adjustable feet
for an uneven shop floor.
It’s ideal for providing
instant counter space when
using benchtop power
tools or assembling small
projects. After the work’s
complete, simply fold the
table against the wall and
lock it in place. See the
Online Extra below for a
free 23 × 29" tabletop plan.
#158253 $99.99

Online Extra
To make the table designed specifically for the folding
table seen here, go to woodcraftmagazine.com and click
on the Online Extras button to download the free plan.

34 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
Wall-Mounted
Lumber Rack
This rugged coated-steel system of
standards and brackets attaches
to the wall at stud locations
using 3" bolts and washers
(not included). The set comes
with (3) 24" standards, (3) 55"
standards, (3) 10" brackets, (3)
14" brackets, and (6) 18" brackets.
Add to this the adjustment
holes on 11⁄2" centers along the
standards lengths, and you have
a versatile lumber rack capable of
supporting hundreds of pounds.

#131189 $249.99

Ceramic Infrared Space Heater LED Task Light

Take the chill out of frosty
winter days in the shop with this
1950W wall- or ceiling-mounted
Comfort IR space heater.
Sporting an almond
steel housing, the ceramic
infrared element can be
hardwired to either a 120V or
240V circuit. Or, if you choose,
you can attach an appropriate
plug (not included) to the
cord. When in use, the heater
can warm up a 12 × 12' area
and costs approximately 19
to 20 cents per hour to run,
according to the maker.
Safe, quiet, and odorless, the
space heater mounts easily with
screws to either wall anchors or
studs. Locate it above an often-
used area, such as a workbench
for maximum effectiveness.
#417562 $249.99
Whether reading fine
measurements or performing a
detailed task, add concentrated
light where you need it with this
16"-long LED dual-power shop
light. Its focusing head provides
250 lumens while running off AAA
batteries or a 110V outlet. Hold
it in place with either its strong
rare-earth magnet or a clamp.
#154491 $49.99

Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert WorldMags.net

Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 35
 WorldMags.net
A-Frame Clamp Rack
Tired of rummaging through the
shop looking for the right set of
clamps for an assembly job? That
won’t happen again with this
place-for-everything mobile rack
by HTC. Spring clamps, F-style
bar clamps, K-body parallel jaw
clamps, and pipe clamps can
all find a home here. The steel
crossbars located at intervals
along the A-frame angle-iron
rack allow you to organize
the clamps in your collection
based on their lengths. The
overall size measures 30"w ×
24"d × 53"h, making the rack
a good fit for even a small
shop. Its total weight capacity
tops off at 500 pounds.
Because of its four swiveling
casters, it's easy to roll the rack
away from the wall and park it
alongside your assembly table
or workbench for a glue-up.
After the glue-up dries, remove
the clamps, clean off the glue,
and return them to the rack.
To order the rack, go to
htc.productsinc.com, or call HTC
Products, Inc. at (800) 624-2027.

10-Drawer Tool Chest

As you expand your arsenal
of fine hand tools, the need
for protecting them in a
suitable storage unit becomes
more pressing with each
new purchase. Of course, you
can build a handsome chest
like the one featured in the
Feb/March 2013 issue of
Woodcraft Magazine, but that
takes time. The alternative:
Buy a chest that serves the
need. This 10-drawer model
by Gerstner comes in red oak
and employs tongue-and-
groove joinery throughout
for strength and durability.
Measuring 24"w × 10"d ×
16 1⁄4"h, the chest features a
front lid at the bottom that
pulls out and covers the
drawers when in its locked
position. Green felt lines
the upper case interior and
drawer bottoms, offering a
safe haven for prized items.
#147378 $329.99

Hardware Organizers
Few things are more frustrating (and time-
consuming) for woodworkers than looking for the
right screw, nail, or nut while sorting through old
coffee cans and jars. Why not let these handy plastic
organizers by Akro-Mils come to your rescue? The
larger box features 44 drawers in two sizes (2" and
4" wide); the smaller box, 16 (2" wide) drawers.

#154637 (large box) $32.50

#154638 (small box) $12.99

36 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
At-the-Ready Router Table
When equipped with a router
that you supply, this Kreg
benchtop workhorse can be
pressed into service in the few
minutes it takes to install a bit
and adjust the fence. Standing
19" high, the table’s splayed
28"w × 20"d steel base offers
plenty of stability. Rubber feet
grip the surface underneath to
prevent slippage when in use.
Other features include a flat
1 × 16 × 24" laminated MDF top
with a standard miter gauge
slot, and a three-ring phenolic
insert plate. Resting on it is an
adjustable extruded
aluminum fence with
locking cam clamps,
adjustable sub-fences,
a 21⁄2" dust port, and
a bit guard. The True-
Flex featherboard is
an extra purchase.

#158284 $229.99
(table)
#148436 $19.99
(featherboard)
Retro Shop Stool
The next time you need to rest your dogs,
consider taking five on this cushioned
shop stool. A throwback chrome base
sets the style with rings that screw
to the flared legs, providing a rigid
structure and a place to park your
feet. The stool measures 16"w × 29"h
and easily stores under a countertop.
It supports up to 350 pounds.
#154269 $69.99
Instant
Workbench
This portable QuikBENCH folds
up when you want to store
it, and sets up in a jiffy when
you need to work. Standing
32" high, the benchtop surface
measures 24 × 30" and comes
with some pretty neat features.
They include tool and hardware
wells, a two-crank vise, a pair
of bench dogs, and dog holes
letting you clamp workpieces in
place for sanding or other tasks.
While it is not designed to

Anti-Fatigue stand on, the QuikBENCH can

hold up to 300 pounds. Buy two
Floor mat and use them as sawhorses. Or,
better still, buy three or four and
hook them together to create a
Hard shop floors make tired large countertop for finishing
feet cry for mercy. Give them or project assembly. Use the
relief with one or more of these three-outlet power strip to
2 × 5' anti-fatigue PVC mats. plug in portable power tools.

#146033 $36.50 #154760 $129.99

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 37
 WorldMags.net

Mobile
Mitersaw Stand
Multiple features make this project
a welcome shop addition.
By Chuck Hedlund

B enefits abound with this

shop-friendly workhorse.
Designed for popular 10" and
12" compound mitersaws, the
sturdy open plywood cabinet
offers enough interior space for
a shop vacuum and cutoff tub. Its
48"-high back and sides contain
spraying sawdust, allowing for a
cleaner work area. Its fixed shelf
provides storage for a wrench,
38 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
measuring tape, and extra blade.
To reduce the cabinet’s footprint
when not in use, simply lower
the drop-down wings and roll
the stand against the wall.
(Note, however, that at least one
wing must be raised and locked
in place for all but the shortest of
cuts. See the inset photo, right.)
For adjustability and precision
cutting, use the hardware
components to easily level and
fine-tune the saw shelf and
wings and to align the fence
with your saw’s fence. There’s
even a hardware adjustment for
an uneven shop floor. Finally,
a pair of quick-lock fence stops
lets you make repeatable cuts.
 WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Mitersaw Stand Exploded View
⁄4" rabbet,
3
#10 biscuit Note: Back top trim is
⁄8" deep
3
flush with back edge.

#8 × 3"
flathead screw
See detail
on page 45. Four-arm knob 5
⁄16"-18
with 11⁄2" stud brass
threaded
insert
⁄16"
5

washer
⁄4 × 151⁄2" dado,
3

⁄8" deep
3

#8 × 11⁄2"
flathead
wood screw 11⁄2 × 10" Notch
piano hinge
11⁄4 × 11⁄4" 11⁄2 × 32"
aluminum piano hinge ⁄4" rabbet,
3

angle ⁄8" deep

3

13⁄4" recess, Heavy-duty

1
⁄4" deep on lifting leveler
underside 3 × 3"
corner brackets

⁄4" rabbet,
3

⁄8" deep
3

3" nonlocking,
nonswiveling casters Shelf-Adjustment
5
⁄16 × 1 ⁄4"
1
3" double-locking, Hardware Detail
lag screws swiveling casters

1
⁄2" nut
Side Trim Detail

Center biscuit in plywood. ⁄2" × 6" carriage bolt

1

1
⁄4"
Side inside face
⁄2" flat washer
1

Plywood Cutting Diagram

Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Christopher Mills WorldMags.net

Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 39
 WorldMags.net
A
With a block against the dado set,
mark its location on the fence.
Use the mark to locate the stop.
Cut the plywood parts
1 For ease of handling, cut
the right and left sides (A),
back (B), bottom (C), fixed
shelf (D), adjustable shelf (E),
wing supports (G), and wings
(H) slightly oversized, using
a straightedge and circular
saw with a plywood blade. To
reduce waste and for grain
orientation, refer to the Plywood
Cutting Diagram on page 39.
Now, at the tablesaw, cut the
parts to finished overall size.
(In later steps, you’ll trim the
sides, fixed shelf, wing supports,
and wings to final shape.)
2 Install a dado set that is the
same width as the plywood’s
thickness. Raise the blade to
3⁄
8". Make a test dado in scrap
plywood, and check its width
using a mating plywood part;
adjust the dado set width if
needed. To make the stopped
dado in the sides (A), where
shown in Figure 1, cut the
dado in both sides (A) on their
opposing inside faces. To do this,
make a reference mark on the
saw fence where the blade starts
to make contact with the piece
to be cut. I’ll call this “point X.”
40 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
B
With a featherboard and guide rail to keep the shelf upright and
snug to the fence, cut the notch up to the stop. Turn off the saw.
From that mark measure back
151⁄2", and place a stop on your
saw fence at this location. Now,
adjust the fence 163⁄4" from the
blade. With the inside face of the
right side (A) down, and with its
top edge against the fence, move
the part forward to make the
dado cut, stopping at the stop.
Turn off the saw and remove
the part. Set the piece aside.
3 Adjust the saw fence to
301⁄4", and make the stopped
dado on the inside face of
the left side (A), placing the
bottom end against the rip
fence. Remove the stop, but do
not change blade height; you’ll
use it in the following steps.
4 Clamp an auxiliary fence to
your saw fence, and slide it over
to the blade. Using the same
dado set height, cut the rabbets,
where shown in Figure 1, in the
sides (A) and back (B). (Make
a test cut on scrap to check the
cut.) Leave the blade height and
fence setting for the next step.
5 To make the shoulder cuts on
the fixed shelf (D), place a “point
X” mark on your auxiliary fence
as in Step 2 and Photo A. Clamp
a stop 21⁄4" back from that mark.
6 Stand the fixed shelf on one end
with the back corner of the shelf
toward the blade and the shelf’s
face against the fence. Clamp a
guide rail to the shelf so it rides
on the fence top edge. This, along
with the featherboard, allows for
more control during the cut and
keeps the shelf from tipping into
the dado blade. Now make the
notch cut, as shown in Photo B.
Cut the notch at the other back
corner the same way. Remove the
auxiliary fence, and replace the
dado set with a standard blade.
7 Using a 1⁄8" round-over bit
in a table-mounted router,
round over the back edges
of the shelves (D) and (E).
(Doing this keeps the vacuum
hose from getting hung up
when adjusting the mitersaw
cutting angle back and forth.)
8 Rip a 1⁄4" strip of maple from
3⁄
4" stock for the adjustable
shelf edge (F). Cut it just over
in length, and glue and clamp it
to the front edge of adjustable
shelf (E). When the glue has
dried, sand it flush with the
shelf and break the edges.
9 Lay out the inside corners on
the cabinet’s right and left sides
 WorldMags.net
C With a side clamped to the bench
With the back edge of the side panel against the saw fence, move
the side panel forward until you reach the stop. Turn off the saw.
(A). Plan to use both sides of
the tablesaw fence and table to
cut out the corners, as well as a
handsaw. With the blade raised
21⁄2", make blade entry reference
“point X” marks–this time on
both sides of the saw fence. (I
raised the blade to this height to
reduce the arc at the cut’s end.)
Now, place a stop 107⁄8" back from
the mark on one fence side. Move
the fence 103⁄8" to the right of the
blade for the cabinet’s right side.
Now, with the inside face down,
crosscut into the right side panel.
After reaching the stop, turn off
the saw and remove the part.
Repeat for the left panel, working
from the other side of the blade.
10 Adjust the fence 157⁄8" to the
right of the blade, and relocate
the stop to 103⁄8" from “point X.”
Now, ripcut the right side panel,
as shown in Photo C with the
inside face down. Note the waste
piece will still be attached to the
panel at the inside corner. Set
the right panel aside. Lower the
blade, and slide the fence to the
left side of it. Repeat the blade
height and measurements for
setting the fence, and stop and
ripcut the left side panel (A).
D
and the waste piece clamped to
the side, handsaw out the waste.
11 Using a handsaw, complete and adhere a 1⁄4"-thick spacer
the cuts in the corner, as (I used 1⁄4" MDF) on the biscuit
shown in Photo D. cutter’s fence with double-faced
tape. (Doing this simplifies
Assemble the case cutting the biscuit slots by having
and add the trim just one fence depth adjustment
1 On a flat surface, glue, for two different cuts in the
clamp, drill, and drive screws trim and plywood–flush and 1⁄4"
to assemble the cabinet offset.) On all plywood cuts use
plywood parts. I used a 9⁄64" the attached spacer, as shown
countersinking bit for #8 × 11⁄2" in Photo E. Use Figure 1
flathead wood screws. Drill the as a general guide for the
holes 11" apart, keeping them number of biscuits per edge.
at least 2" from the ends. Start 3 Next, from 3⁄4"-thick maple,
by attaching the back (B) to the cut enough linear feet of 11⁄2"-
bottom (C). Then add the right
side (A), followed by the left side
(A). Next, apply glue and slide
the notched fixed shelf (D) into
the dadoes, keeping its front
edge flush with the sides (A).
Clamp and secure the shelf with
screws. Sand the joints smooth.
2 Mark the biscuit locations
for #10 biscuits for all plywood
cabinet parts receiving trim,
and then cut the slots. Note that
I offset the side trim pieces by
1⁄
4" from the outside plywood
faces. (See the Side Trim Detail E
in Figure 1.) Start by adjusting With the cabinet on its side,
the biscuit cutter fence for slots outside face up, cut the biscuit slots
centered 5⁄8" in depth. Next, cut in the plywood using the 1⁄4" spacer.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 41
 WorldMags.net
and 21⁄2"-wide trim material for
the cabinet and wings (I, J, K, L),
referencing the Cut List. Allow a
little for waste. Starting with the
long front edges of the sides (A),
work your way up to the back,
cutting miters on the trim pieces
as you go. Mark the location for
the biscuits from the plywood
reference marks, and then cut
the slots without the spacer. Glue
and clamp the trim in place,
making sure you maintain a 1⁄4"
overhang on the sides. When
both sides are done, add the
11⁄2"-wide back top trim (J), and
the 21⁄2"-wide center and bottom
rails (K), cutting the parts to
exact lengths. The center rail
will extend 1⁄4" above the top
edge of the fixed shelf (D) and be
slotted without the 1⁄4" spacer,
and the top back (J) and bottom
rail (K) will be flush with the
cabinet back (B) and bottom (C),
respectively. Both are slotted
with the 1⁄4" spacer. To secure
the rail joints, drill countersunk
shank holes and pilot holes for
#8 × 3" flathead wood screws.
Sand the trim flush as needed.
4 Cut off the front inside
corners of the wings (H), where
shown in Figure 1. Then,
add the wing trim (L) to the
wings using the spacer. Sand
the trim flush to the wings.
5 To mount the hinges for the
wings, cut the hinge mounting
strips (M) for the cabinet sides
(A) (see Figure 1). Glue and
clamp the strips in place, flush
with top face of the horizontal
side trim (I) and 1⁄2" from the
front face of the trimmed cabinet
front. Next drill holes 21⁄4" in from
each end with the countersink
bit, and drive #8 × 11⁄2" flathead
wood screws to secure the strips.
Sand the mating surfaces smooth.
6 To keep the cabinet close to
the floor and the mitersaw at a
42 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
workable height, add a pair of
outrigger-like wheel supports
(N) to the cabinet sides (A)
(see Figure 1). (I used 8/4
[2"-thick] maple but you could
laminate two pieces of 4/4 [1"-
thick] maple.) Cut the wheel
supports to size. Then, using
the caster plates as a template
on the outside corners of the
bottom faces of the supports,
mark the holes for the 5⁄16 × 11⁄4"
lag screws. Drill 1⁄4" pilot holes,
11⁄4" deep, at these locations.
7 Measure up from the bottom
edge of the sides (A) 31⁄4", and
strike an alignment line for
the bottom face of the wheel
supports (N). Now spread
glue and clamp a wheel
support in place. On the inside
measure up again 31⁄4", and
mark the locations for the
#8 × 2" flathead wood screws.
Use the countersinking drill
bit to drill the pilot holes and
drive the screws. Remove
the clamps and repeat for
the other wheel support.
8 Finish-sand the cabinet and
wing parts, and then apply two
coats of finish. (I used a water-
based satin polyurethane.)
Add the wheel supports
and adjustable shelf
1 Provide added strength
to the wheel supports (N) by
attaching 3" corner braces,
where shown in Figure 1, using
the screws provided. (I bought
the braces at local home center.)
Now, screw on two non-locking,
non-swiveling casters at the
back and two double-locking,
swiveling casters at the front. To
level the cabinet on an uneven
floor, apply the heavy-duty lifting
levelers 3" from each front corner
with the screws provided. (I
removed the threaded leveler
studs and added locking wing
Filler strip
Backer
F
Use a guide on your drill to bore
the shelf-adjustment holes. The
filler and backer prevent tear-out.
nuts [metric M10-1.5] purchased
at a local hardware store for
ease of locking. Do this to all
four levelers for the cabinet
and wing supports [G]).
2 Next, attach the adjustable
shelf (F). Start by measuring
and marking 2" from each corner.
To make clean, vertical 1⁄2" holes
for the 1⁄2 × 6" carriage bolts,
you’ll need a 1⁄4" filler strip
placed between the fixed shelf
(D) and the adjustable shelf, as
well as a 3⁄4"-thick backer strip
clamped to the bottom of the
fixed shelf. (I used these to reduce
tear- out.) Now, drill perfectly
vertical and aligned 1⁄2" holes,
as shown in Photo F.
(I used the General AccuDrill,
but you could use a 11⁄2"-thick
wood block with a 1⁄2" hole that
you pre-bore at the drill press.)
3 Place a carriage bolt in each
of the fixed shelf (D) holes,
followed by a washer and a nut.
(See the Shelf-Adjustment
Hardware Detail in Figure 1.)
Tighten each nut with a wrench.
Place another nut on each bolt,
 WorldMags.net
followed by a washer. (I placed
the second nut and washer 31⁄2"
up from the fixed shelf, a height
that worked for my saw. Your saw
may require a different height.)
Cut a scrap block equal in width
to the nut height to use as a
spacer. Now, place the adjustable
shelf (E) over the bolts, followed
by a washer and nut. Adjust
the shelf so it rests flat on the
spacer. Finger-tighten the nuts
for now. You’ll adjust them to the
exact height later when fine-
tuning your saw to the stand.
4 Place your mitersaw on the
adjustable shelf (E), and center
it side to side. Set it back so
the saw’s front feet measure
3⁄
4" from the shelf’s front edge.
Clamp the saw in position. Now,
transfer the hole locations
in your saw’s feet onto the
shelf with a pencil or awl. (My
mitersaw has 1⁄4" holes in the
feet for fastening the saw to the
shelf.) Remove the saw to drill
the four pilot holes for #14 ×
2" sheet metal screws. Return
the saw and fasten it in place,
double-checking its location.
Attach the wing supports
and wings
1 To attach the wing supports
(G), cut two piano hinges to
32" long with a hacksaw. File
the burrs from the cut ends.
Also, cut two 10"-long piano
hinges for the wings (H).
2 ⁄8" spacer
Lay out each side of the
cabinet for the hinges, locating
them 203⁄8" from the back edge
to the edge of the hinge. Tape
the hinges (cut edge down) in
place and 3⁄16" below the hinge
mounting strips (M). Then drill
pilot holes for the hinge screws.
I used a 7⁄64" self-centering Vix
bit, as shown in Photo G.
3 Remove the piano hinges
from the cabinet, and mount
G
With the wing support piano hinge taped in place,
drill the screw pilot holes using a Vix bit.
them on the wing supports placed between the saw’s table
(G), flushing them at the top and the vertical trim (I) and
corner. (Remember that you wing, clamp the wing in position
will have a left hinge and a and mark the underside where
right hinge.) The hinge barrel the screws will go, as shown
should be flush with the back in Photo H, guiding off the
edge of the wing support. Now, hinge holes. Mark the center
mount the wing supports to location of the leveler foot on
the sides (A) with screws in the bottom face of the wing.
the pilot holes drilled earlier. 7 Now, remove the clamps,
4 With the wing supports and place the wing (H) bottom
(G) folded against the cabinet,
measure 17" over from the
inside corner, and mount
the lifting levelers with
the screws provided.
5 Mount the 10" piano
hinges on the side faces of the
hinge mounting strips (M),
1
with the barrel of the hinges
facing up. Using the Vix bit,
drill the pilot holes and drive
just two of the end screws
into each hinge. (You’ll take
them off after locating the
wings [H] in the next step.)
6 Next, attach the wings (H)
H
to the mating piano hinges. To
do this, position a wing support Clamp the wing in place inserting
(G) so the wing rests on it. Using ⁄8" spacers where shown; then
1
clamps and a pair of 1⁄8" spacers mark the hinge hole locations.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 43
 WorldMags.net
I
Use the drill guide and cordless
drill to bore the vertical hole
for the threaded brass insert.
side up. Using a pencil, mark the
orientation of the attached hinge
on a scrap of masking tape and
stick it to the hinge. That way,
you will be able to reattach the
hinge at that exact location later.
Next, remove the hinge and place
it on the wing aligned with the
marked holes. Use a square to
see if the hinge is square with
the edge of the wing. (It must be
square for the table to fold down
properly.) Drill the holes with
the Vix bit, and drive the screws.
Repeat for the other wing.
8 On the bottom face of the
wings (H), drill 13⁄4" recesses, 1⁄4"
deep, for the leveler feet, where
shown in Figure 1. They should
be directly above the leveler feet
when the wing supports are at a
right angle to the cabinet sides.
9 Open the hinge of a wing
(H), and position it against
the hinge mounting strip (M).
Remove the orientation tape,
and align the hinge holes with
the screw holes drilled earlier.
Drive all of the screws in place.
Repeat for the other side.
44 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
J
Drive the threaded inserts using a drill and socket as seen
in the Inset; recess the inserts 1⁄16" below the surface.
10 To make the wings (H) more
rigid and stable, add a four-arm
knob with a 11⁄2" stud that goes
through each wing and into the
horizontal trim (I) on sides (A).
(See Figure 1.) To do this, rest
the wing on the wing support
(G). Then, measuring from the
center of the vertical trim (I) at
the side’s inside corner, make a
mark 21⁄8" in on the top face of
the wing. (The mark must also
be centered on the horizontal
side trim beneath the wing.)
Now, outfit the drill guide or
shop-made guide block and
drill with a 5⁄16" brad-point bit,
and set the guide’s stop to bore
3⁄
4" deep. Fit the guide against
the vertical trim and centered
on the marked line. Drill the
hole. The bit should make a
center point on the horizontal
trim beneath the wing.
11 Remove the wing (H),
and then install a 7⁄16" bit in
the drill guide and cordless
drill, again setting the stop
for a 3⁄4"-deep hole. Position
the bit so it is centered on
the center point, and drill the
hole, as shown in Photo I.
12 To drive the 5⁄16" threaded
inserts in the holes in the
horizontal trim parts (I), use
a 5⁄16" bolt, a pair of jam nuts,
and a mating socket, as shown
in the Photo J Inset. Attach
the socket to an impact driver
using a socket adaptor, and
drive the inserts, as shown in
Photo J. Now, reattach the wing
assemblies (H/L), support them
with the wing supports (G), and
screw the four-arm knobs with
11⁄2" studs through 5⁄16" washers
and into the holes. Tighten the
knobs to make the wings rigid.
Add the fence and stop
1 Hacksaw two pieces of
11⁄4 × 11⁄4 aluminum angle to the
length of the wings (H). File off
any burrs on the cut ends. Next,
lay out the 7⁄32 × 5⁄8" slots, where
shown in the Fence and Stop
Details. With a 7⁄32" bit, drill
a hole at the end of the slots,
and then cut between the holes
with a coping saw. With a small
 WorldMags.net
Figure 2: Fence and Stop Details
Align front face of
⁄16" hole,
7
angle with saw fence.
11⁄4" ⁄16" deep
9
5
⁄16"-18 brass
threaded insert
⁄8"
5
3
⁄4" recess, 1⁄4" deep
with 5⁄16" through-hole #12 × 3⁄4"
panhead screw
1
⁄4" washer
11⁄8" rabbet,
1
⁄8" deep Adjustable handle
1
4 ⁄ " rabbet,
13
⁄32" deep Center hole for
four-arm knob
over side trim.

11" ⁄32" slot, 5⁄8" long,

7

centered

11⁄4" aluminum angle,

391⁄2" long

Fine-Tune The Stand

To Your Saw
Several fine-tuning adjustments exist in the mobile
miter stand, allowing you to make precision cuts.

• Adjusting the adjustable shelf: With the wings (H)

held in place by the wing supports (G), place a long
level on the mitersaw table and fences. Now, use
a wrench to turn the nuts on the 6" bolts to raise
or lower the adjustable shelf (E) front and back to
make the saw table even with the wings.

• Leveling the wings: With the long level still

spanning the saw table and wings (H), adjust the
lifting levelers on the wing supports (G) to bring
the wings flush with the bottom edge of the level.

• Aligning the fences: With the wings (H) and

saw table even, place the straight edge of a
long level against the saw’s fence and clamp it
in position. Place the aluminum fences against
the level and even with the outside ends of
the wings. Make a center mark in each slot.
Drill pilot holes in the slots, and install #12
× 3⁄4" panhead screws to secure the fences
in perfect alignment with the saw fence.

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 45
 WorldMags.net
6
file, remove the burrs. Hold off
attaching the fences for now.
Insert the threaded inserts in
the stop fronts (P), sinking them
style adjustable handle, and
connect the backs (O) to the
2 To make the two stops, just below the surface by 1⁄32". fronts (P) to form two saw
cut two blanks, one at 3⁄4 × 2 7 Finally, place a 1⁄4" flat washer stops. Attach the stops to the
8 × 8" for the backs (O), and onto the stud of a ratchet- aluminum angle fences. n
3⁄

one at 3⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 8" for the

fronts (P). (I made them this Mitersaw Stand Cut List
length for safe machining.) Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat’l
3 Using a dado set, cut the A Left and right sides 3
⁄4" 267⁄8" 473⁄4" 2 BP
1 8" rabbet, 3⁄32" deep on one
1⁄
B Back 3
⁄4" 351⁄4" 473⁄4" 1 BP
face of the back blank, where C Bottom 3
⁄4" 351⁄4" 261⁄2" 1 BP
shown in the Fence and Stop D Fixed shelf 3
⁄4" 351⁄4" 16" 1 BP
Details. Then, adjust the fence E Adjustable shelf 3
⁄4" 16" 343⁄8" 1 BP
and dado set height, and cut the F Adjustable shelf edge 1
⁄4" 3
⁄4" 343⁄8" 1 M
4" wide rabbet, 1 ⁄32" deep.
1⁄ 3
G Wing supports ⁄4" 201⁄4" 32" 2 BP
4
3

Switch to a standard blade ⁄4"

H Wings 3
11" 391⁄2" 2 BP
and, using an auxiliary fence
I* Right and left side trim 3
⁄4" 11⁄2" 42" 4 M
on your miter gauge, cut two
J* Back top trim 3
⁄4" 11⁄2" 36" 1 M
stop backs (O) and two stop
K* Center and bottom trim 3
⁄4" 21⁄2" 351⁄2" 2 M
fronts (P) to 21⁄2" long from
L* Wing trim 3
⁄4" 11⁄2" 42" 2 M
their respective blanks.
5 M Hinge mounting strips ⁄2" ⁄4" 10" 2 M
1 3
Install a 3⁄4" brad-point bit in
N Wheel supports 13⁄4" 53⁄4" 267⁄8" 2 M
your drill press, and set up your
fence at 5⁄8" from the center of O Stop back 3
⁄4" 23⁄8" 21⁄2" 2 M
the bit. Set a stop to be at exactly P Stop front 3
⁄4" 21⁄2" 21⁄2" 2 M
11⁄4" from the bit’s center. This *Indicates parts are initially cut oversized. See instructions.
is important for the alignment Materials: BP=Birch plywood, M=Maple
of the two parts making up Hardware/Supplies: (10) #8 × 3" flathead wood screws; (14) #8 × 2" flathead wood screws;
(28) #8 × 11⁄2" flathead wood screws; (4) #14 × 2" sheet metal screws;
the saw stop. As shown in the
(4) #12 × 3⁄4" panhead wood screws; (16) 5⁄16 × 11⁄4" lag screws; (2) 1⁄4" flat washers;
Fence and Stop Details, drill (2) 5⁄16" flat washers; (12) 1⁄2" flat washers; (4) 1⁄2 × 6" carriage bolts; (4) 1⁄2" nuts;
a 3⁄4" hole 1⁄4" deep in the two (4) M10-1.5 metric wing nuts; (4) 5⁄16"-18 brass threaded inserts (Hillman #H880550 at Lowes);
stop backs (O). Chuck in a 5⁄16" (1) 11⁄4" aluminum angle 1⁄8" thick × 96" long; (4) heavy-duty 3" corner brackets
bit, and drill the through-holes (Everbilt #824550 at The Home Depot).
in the backs using a backer to
prevent tear-out. Now, switch Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
bits and drill the 7⁄16" holes, 9⁄16" 1. Milescraft #10 Biscuits, 100/pkg. #153580 $7.75
deep, in the stop fronts (P).
2. General Tools AccuDrill #36⁄37 #17W33 $49.99

3. Adjustable Handle with ⁄16" - 18 × 1" Stud

5
#129132 $5.29
About Our (2 needed)
Designer/Builder 4. Four-Arm Knob with 5⁄16"- 18 × 11⁄2" Stud #142906 $3.25
Westerville, Ohio, resident (4 needed)
Chuck Hedlund began his 5. 3" Casters, Non-locking, Non-swiveling #141052 $11.99
woodworking life as a (2 needed)
cabinetmaker. Beginning 6. 3" Casters, Double-Locking, Swiveling (2 needed) #141051 $18.99
in 1993, he began serving
the needs of several 7. Heavy-Duty Leg Levelers, 4/pkg. #145840 $20.99
woodworking publications 8. Piano Hinge, Nickel Plated, 11⁄2 × 48" (2 needed) #152161 $17.99
as a builder and designer.
9. ⁄64" Vix Bit
7
#16I41 $12.50
He is a regular contributor
to Woodcraft Magazine. Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice.

46 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
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WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Compact, All-Purpose
Workbench
A simple, solid, small-shop solution
By Alan Turner

Overall dimensions:
24"w × 60"l × 341⁄2"h
48 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Leg Assembly Exploded View
21"
Leg Front View
21⁄4"
⁄4"
3

⁄16" hole
9

21⁄4" dado,
1 ⁄2"
1
3
⁄8" deep

1
⁄2 × 4" lag
screw and
washer

1" washer
1 × 41⁄2" tenon,
3
⁄8" long ⁄16" shaft hole
9

Drill 11⁄2" hole

⁄2 × 6"
1 after shaft hole.
machine
bolt
13⁄8" counterbore, 3⁄8"
deep, centered,with
a 9⁄16" through 1 × 41⁄2" mortise, 3"
hole, centered ⁄2" deep
1

⁄2" nut
1

2" long kerfs, 11⁄4" dado,

1
⁄4" from 5
⁄8" deep
outside edge

31⁄8"

15°
63⁄4"
213⁄4"
7"
Flare dado 5°
flare for wedge.
21⁄2"
#8 × 15⁄8"
flathead screw

S
11⁄4"

pace is a luxury that many woodworkers,
especially those living in the city, cannot afford.
At the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop,
I designed a bench to accommodate those who
want to do serious woodworking, but who don’t
have enough space for a full-sized workbench. This
compact copy of our school’s traditional bench is
perfectly suited for cramped garages and basements.
This bench solves another problem faced
by woodworkers: mobility. Remove a pair
of lag screws in the top and four bolts in the
legs, and this bench is ready for transport. But
Photos: Paul Anthony; Illustrations: John Hartman
don’t let the knock-down hardware fool you;
this bench is meant for serious work. Even
under heavy hand-planing, it does not rack.
Pre-built components and modern vise hardware
make for a fast and easy build. For example, the
laminated butcher-block top saves days of milling
and assembly. And the metal front and end vises
can both be attached in a few hours. My students
finish their benches in six evening classes; working
at home, you can complete this bench in a couple of
weekends. To fully accessories your bench, make
the complementary cabinet shown on page 55.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 49
 WorldMags.net
⁄2" spacer
1

⁄4" dado
3

B
A Insert a spacer and cut the outside shoulder.
Set the sled foot half against a stopblock and Using a spacer – instead of moving the stopblock –
cut the inside shoulder of the dado. ensures perfectly consistent dadoes.

Start with the ,with an auxiliary fence, set a 4 Cut a pair of 1 ⁄ "-thick
3
16

leg assemblies
1 From 8/4 (2"-thick) stock,
mill material for the sled foot
halves (A) and top rails (B).
Mill the uprights (C) from 10/4
(21⁄2"-thick) stock, or laminate
thinner boards as needed.
2 Cut the sled feet (A) to the size
listed in the Cut List, leaving the
ends square. Lay out the dadoes
where shown in Figure 1.
Next, install a 3⁄4" dado blade
in your tablesaw. Using a
dado sled, or a miter gauge
stopblock to cut the shoulder
that’s farthest away from the
end (Photo A), and make the
first cut. Next, insert a 1⁄2"-wide
spacer block (the spacer size is
determined by subtracting the
width of the dado head from the
desired dado width) and make
the second cut (Photo B).
3 Tilt your bandsaw table 5°
and flare the bottom edges of the
dadoes on the sled feet halves (A),
as shown in Photo C. Remove the
remaining waste with a chisel.
scrap blocks to fit the width of
the dadoes exactly, and wrap
them with packing tape. Using
these blocks for alignment, glue
and clamp the sled feet halves
together as shown in Photo D.
Allow the glue time to dry, remove
the clamps, clean up the assembly
at the jointer and planer, and
then angle the ends at 15°.
5 Cut the uprights (C) to
length. (Feel free to adjust the
length to suit. Refer to “Build
Your Bench To Fit,” on page 51.)

C D
Guide the blade just below the top edge of the dado, Use tape-wrapped spacers to keep the sled feet
and flare the bottom edge for the wedge. Tilt the table halves in perfect alignment. Gluing the dadoed
in the opposite direction to cut the opposite edge. halves together creates clean through mortises.
50 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Build Your Bench To Fit
These plans are for a 341⁄2"-high bench top, a nice height for the
average-sized woodworker (5' 8" to 6'). There are different ways to
determine the “best” height (the ideal bench height also depends
on the kind of work you do), but to find a ballpark number, stand
up straight, drop your arms against your sides and measure the
distance from floor to your wrist. When in doubt, cut the uprights
shorter and use thicker footpads to fine-tune the height.

Instead, rotate the upright so the opposite face of each

E the jig, and make the second
Use a tenoning jig to cut the
slot mortises and a bandsaw
to remove the waste.
Lay out the tenons, mortises,
and the slot mortises and
dadoes for the T-bridle joints,
where shown in Figure 1.
6 Set up your tablesaw with
a 3⁄4" dado head, and adjust the
cutter height to 1⁄2". Set the
bottom end of an upright (C)
against the rip fence so that the
first cut establishes the tenon’s
shoulder, and make a series of
dadoes, shifting the upright
away from the fence until you
complete the tenon’s face. Cut
each face in the same manner;
then repeat the sequence with
the remaining three uprights.
7 Replace your dado cutter
with a standard saw blade. Using
a shop-made or commercial
tenoning jig, cut the T-bridle slot
mortise on the top end of each
upright (C), as shown in Photo E.
To ensure a centered slot
mortise, do not reset the fence.
that the opposite face is against
cut. Remove the remaining
waste at the bandsaw, and then
clean up the slot bottom with
a sharp chisel. While you’re at
the bandsaw, kerf the tenons
for the wedges, where shown
in Figure 1. (Be sure to orient
the kerfs so that the wedges push
against the end grain of the feet.)
8 Chuck a 1" Forstner bit into
your drill press, and bore a row
of overlapping blind holes to
create a 1⁄2"-deep × 41⁄2"-long
mortises in each of the uprights,
where shown on Figure 1. Clean
up the edges of the mortises with
a sharp chisel. Next, drill a
13⁄8" × 3⁄8" deep counterbore
and 9⁄16" through hole on
11⁄2" spacer
upright, where shown.
9 Cut the top rails (B) to the
size listed in the Cut List. Next,
install a 3⁄4" dado blade in your
tablesaw. With the stopblock/
spacer technique used for the
sled feet halves, cut the shoulder
that’s farthest away from the
stopblock; then insert a 11⁄2"-
wide spacer block and make
the second cut (Photo F). Now
nibble out the middle waste. Flip
the workpiece over, and do the
same on the other face. Repeat
the process for the remaining
three ends. At the drill press,
drill the 9⁄16" hole for the top lag
screw, where shown in Figure 1.
10 Finish-sand the assembled
sled feet (A), top rails (B), and
uprights (C). Using the wedge-
⁄4" dado
3

Tip Alert
If you over-cut the slot, add a
screw to the bottom of the slot
and use it to micro-adjust the
height of the top rail.
F
Inserting a spacer repositions the rail for cutting the opposite shoulder of the
dado, while keeping the stopblock in place for the first cut on the next piece.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 51
 WorldMags.net

G
Clamp the sled feet to the uprights; H
then tap in the wedges to lock Clamp the stretchers between the leg assemblies, and use the predrilled
the leg assembly together. uprights to guide your bit. Remove the uprights, and finish the shaft holes.

cutting tip on page 15, cut eight
5° wedges (D). Working one leg
assembly at a time, glue and
clamp the top rails into the
uprights. Next, glue and clamp
the sled feet onto the uprights,
and then drive the wedges, as
shown in Photo G. After the glue
dries, trim the wedges flush.
11 From 6/4 stock, mill two
Assemble the base with 6"
machine bolts, washers, and nuts,
and then put it aside for now.
14 Mill stock for the foot pads,
(F) but put them aside until after
you’ve assembled the base.
Build the top
1 Unpack the laminated maple
top (G), joint an edge, and
on the dog-hole strip (H),
where shown in Figure 3. (If
you prefer round dog holes,
skip steps 3 and 4 and refer to
the Online Extra on page 53.)
4 From 11⁄2 -thick scrap, make
a 2° tapered strip. Now equip
your saw with a 3⁄4" dado head,
and raise the stack to make
3⁄
4"-deep cut. Clamp the tapered

stretchers (E) to the size listed
in the Cut List. Using a tablesaw
outfitted with a dado head, miter
gauge, and auxiliary fence, cut a
centered 3⁄8 × 41⁄2" tenon at each
end, where shown in Figure 1.
12 Fit the stretchers (E) into
the leg assemblies (A, B, C),
and clamp the base together.
Using a 1⁄2" corded drill and
16" bit (don’t use a Forsnter; it
9⁄
then rip the top to 21" wide.
2 From 10/4 stock, mill the
dog-hole and front-edge strips
(H, I) and cut them to the sizes
listed in the Cut List. Make
the vise spacer (J) from any
available piece of scrap.
3 Lay out ten 3⁄4"-wide dadoes
strip to the dado sled, position
the dog-hole strip against the
tapered piece, and cut the
dadoes as shown in Photo I.
5 Referring to Figure 2, lay
out the mortise for the front
vise on the inside face of the
front-edge strip (I). Using a

will wander), drill through the

holes in the leg assemblies and
into the ends of the stretchers
(Photo H). Remove the
stretchers from the upright, and
finish drilling the shaft hole.
13 Lay out the nut holes in the
stretchers (E), where shown
in Figure 1. (Before drilling,
insert a dowel or metal rod into
the shaft hole. If the rod tilts up
or down, adjust the location of I
the nut hole to suit.) At the drill Rest the dog-hole strip against the tapered stock, and cut the slanted
press, drill the 11⁄2" nut holes. dado. Orient the strip so that the dog holes tilt toward the inset vise.
52 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net
Figure 2: Workbench Exploded View

60" 171⁄4"

24" Veritas Inset Vise

88° (see Figure 3)
⁄4"dadoes,
3

35⁄8" ⁄4" deep

3

#8 × 2" flathead
wood screw
17⁄8 × 71⁄4 × 5⁄8"-
deep mortise, 3⁄4"
3
⁄8 × 21⁄2" lag screw in from end of (I)

Jorgensen
4 × 7" Vise

⁄2 × 4" lag screw

1

⁄2" nut
1

1 × 4 ⁄2" tenon, 3⁄8" long

1

1
⁄2 × 6" machine bolt

Figure 3: Inset Vise Detail

#8 × 1 ⁄8" flathead
5

wood screw
#8 × 1" flathead
wood screw

Online Extra
To learn how to drill perfectly
perpendicular round dog holes, 11⁄2" chip ⁄32"
15
plus additional instruction clearance hole
about installing a metal
vise, check out: http://www. ⁄8"-deep lip
1
103⁄4"
woodcraftmagazine.com/
onlineextras/41-Vises.pdf 3" 21⁄16" mortise,
⁄16" deep
15

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 53
 WorldMags.net
3
handsaw, make angled cuts
at the ends of the mortise to
Attach the four pad feet
(F) to the leg assemblies (A,
of Odie’s Oil to all surfaces.
To resist stains and glue, I
establish the length. Now using B, C). (Consider the 3⁄4"-thick applied two coats to the top.
your drill press equipped with pads as a starting point. You 5 Using 3⁄4"-thick scrap
a 1" Forstner bit, remove the can adjust the thickness of hardwood, make yourself a few
bulk of the waste; then clean the footpads for comfort.) simple bench dogs, and then
up the mortise with a chisel. 4 Apply a protective finish. put your bench to work. n
6 Glue and clamp the dog-hole To bring out the color of the
strip (H) to the front-edge strip wood, I rubbed on a coat
(I). Make certain to clean out
any squeeze-out that oozes into
the dog holes and vise mortise.
7 Apply the front-edge and About Our Designer/Builder
dog-hole strips (H, I) to the Alan Turner has been a woodworker for 50
laminated top (G) with glue years. He teaches at the Philadelphia Furniture
and clamps. Allow time for Workshop which he founded in 2006 to provide
the glue to dry, and then use a woodworking instruction to woodworkers
plane and scraper to correct any of all skill levels. For information on classes,
misalignment on the top face. visit philadelphiafurnitureworkshop.com.
8 Referring to Figure 3, lay
out the main mortise cavity for
the inset vise. Using a router Workbench Cut List
equipped with a 1⁄2" straight bit Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat’l
and edge guide, gradually rout A Sled feet halves 11⁄2" 21⁄2" 213⁄4" 4 HM
out the main cavity to 15⁄16"-deep.
Then rout the shallower 1⁄8"- B Top rails 11⁄2" 23⁄4" 21" 2 HM
deep recesses on either side. C* Uprights 21⁄4" 21⁄4" 311⁄2" 4 HM
Finally, drill a 11⁄2"-diameter
D Wedges 21⁄4" 21⁄2" 4 HM
hole through the workbench
so that chips can fall through E Stretchers 11⁄4" 5" 41" 2 HM
before interfering with the vise. F Foot pads 3
⁄4" 3" 3" 4 HM
Test-fit the vise and transfer
G Benchtop 13⁄4" 21" 60" 1 Butcher block
the mounting screw locations.
Drill pilot holes; then install the H Dog-hole strip 113⁄16" 21⁄4" 60" 1 HM
vise with the screws provided. I Front-edge strip 13⁄16” 21⁄4" 60" 1 HM

Final assembly J Vise spacer 1" 41⁄2" 71⁄2" 1 HM

1 Lay the assembled top Materials: HM=Hard Maple
(G/H/I) on a pair of sawhorses, *Indicates that parts are initially cut oversize. See instructions.
face down, and position
the assembled base on its Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
bottom face. Attach the 1. Laminated Maple Benchtop, 24" × 60" #145685 $219.99
base to the top using 1⁄2 × 4"
2. Jorgensen Rapid Acting Bench Vise 4" × 7" #16T51 $159.99
lag screws and washers.
2 Attach the vise spacer (J) 3. Odie’s Oil, 9 oz. #157863 $27.99
with screws. Position the Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice.
vise on top of the spacer, and
transfer the mounting-hole 4. Veritas Inset Vise 05G31.01 $89.00
locations using a pencil or Above items available at Lee Valley Tools, Ltd., (800) 871-8158, leevalley.com
punch. Drill 1⁄4" pilot holes, Hardware/Supplies: (16) #8 × 15⁄8" flathead wood screws; (4) #8 × 2" flathead wood screws;
and then install the front vise (2) 1⁄2 × 4" lag screws; (4) 1⁄2 × 6" machine bolts; (4) 3⁄8 × 21⁄2" lag screws; (6) 1" SAE washers;
with 3⁄8 × 21⁄2" lag screws. (4) 3⁄4" SAE washers.

54 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
Workbench Tool Cabinet
Get more bang from your bench with this easy-to-build box.
By Alan Turner

Figure 1: Tool Cabinet Exploded View

#8 × 11⁄2" flathead
wood screws
393⁄4"

197⁄8"
⁄4 (18mm) rabbet,
3
1
⁄2" (12mm) #6 × ⁄4 flathead
3 3
⁄4 (18mm) dado, ⁄8 (9 mm) deep
3

rabbet, 3⁄8" wood screws 3

⁄8 (9 mm) deep
(9mm) deep

1
⁄4 (6mm) dadoes,
3
⁄8 (9 mm) deep 21⁄2"

11⁄2" hole
161⁄4"

17"

3"

193⁄4"
153⁄4"

#8 × 11⁄2" flathead
wood screws

Overall Dimensions: 161⁄2"w × 393⁄4"l × 17"h

T his under-bench cabinet offers super-

convenient storage without sacrificing
additional floor or wall space. Designed to be
built and put into service quickly, the cabinet
employs simple joinery and requires only a
small handful of hardware. Once installed and
stocked, the case and tools within will provide
extra mass to your bench to help keep it firmly
planted when working with hand tools.
Photos: Paul Anthony; Illustrations: John Hartman
This cabinet is intended to complement the
Compact, All-Purpose Workbench (page 48), but if the
cabinet fits (or you alter the dimensions to suit) it can
serve as a fitting upgrade to almost any workbench.
Note: Baltic birch (used to build this cabinet and
drawers) is manufactured to metric specifications.
For best results when using this material, refer to the
metric measurements listed in parentheses beside
their imperial equivalents, for example, 3⁄8" (9mm).
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 55
 WorldMags.net
Figure 2: Drawer Detail
⁄4 (6mm) rabbet, 1⁄2 (9mm)
1
deep on top three top drawers
Drawer 1 13⁄8"
Drawer 2 13⁄8"
Drawer 3 35⁄8"
14 ⁄4"
1 1 Cut the drawer bottoms (E)
121⁄2"
Drawer 4 71⁄2"
81⁄2"
⁄2"
1
1" rabbet, 1⁄2 (9mm)
deep on bottom drawer
Start with the case sides (B) and center partition (C),
1 Cut the top and bottom (A), where shown in Figure 1. Next,
sides (B), and center partition (C) bury the dado head slightly, and
to the sizes listed in the Cut List. then cut the 1⁄2" (12 mm) rabbet
2 Install a 3⁄4" (18mm) dado in the rear edges of the top/
set in your tablesaw, attach a bottom and sides for the back (D).
sacrificial fence to your saw’s 3 Adjust your dado set width to
rip fence, adjust the dado height 1⁄
4" (6mm) and cut the dadoes for
to 3⁄8", and then rabbet and dado the drawer bottoms (E) in the
the top and bottom (A) for the sides (B) and center partition
Figure 3: Exploded Drawer
11⁄4" nails
A
Make sure that the bottom lip projects evenly on both
sides; then shoot a few nails to hold the parts together.
56 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
(C), where shown in Figures 1
and 2. (To ensure that the dadoes
line up, cut each matching pair of
dados before adjusting the fence.)
21⁄2"
4 Dry-assemble the case and cut
13⁄4" the back (D) to fit. Using the back
to square the case, reassemble
the case with glue. Attach the
back to the case with 3⁄4"screws.
4"
Make the drawers
to fit your cabinet. Now cut the
drawer fronts (F, G, H, I), sides
(J, K, L), and backs (M, N, O) to
85⁄8" the sizes listed in the Cut List.
At the drill press, drill the finger
holes in the drawer fronts, where
shown with a 11⁄2" Forstner bit.
2 Install a 1⁄2" (9 mm) dado set
in your tablesaw, adjust the dado
height to 3⁄8" (12mm), and then
dado each drawer front (F, G, H,
I), where shown in Figure 3,
to fit the drawer sides (J, K, L).
Attach a sacrificial fence to your
rip fence, and adjust the fence
as needed to rabbet the bottom
edges of the drawer fronts,
where shown in Figure 3.
3 Assemble the drawers
with glue and pin nails,
as shown in Photo A.
11⁄2"-dia. hole
3
⁄4"
⁄2 (9mm) dado,
1
⁄8 (12mm) deep
3
20"
11⁄4" nails
Note: Refer to Figure 2 for part letters.
 WorldMags.net
Figure 4: Cabinet Hinge Detail

37mm 22.5mm
3"
Hinge-clip
mounting plate
3"

B
Measure the hinge-to-edge
110° full-
distance on a piece of scrap overlay hinge
to set the drill press fence.

Make and hang the door

1 Cut the door (P) to the size
listed in the Cut List. At the Workbench Cabinet Cut List
drill press, drill the finger hole, Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat’l
where shown in Figure 1. A Top/bottom 3
⁄4" 153⁄4" 393⁄4" 2 BB
2 Draw a pair of lines, on the B Sides 3
⁄4" 153⁄4" 161⁄4" 2 BB
hinge side of the case and door, C Center partition 3
⁄4" 151⁄2" 161⁄4" 1 BB
where shown in Figure 4, to D Back 1
⁄2" 161⁄4" 391⁄16" 1 BB
locate the centers of the hinges. E Drawer bottoms 1
⁄2" 193⁄8" 153⁄4" 4 BB
3 Chuck a 35mm bit into F Drawer 1 front 3
⁄4" 21⁄2" 20" 1 BB
your drill press, set the fence G Drawer 2 front 3
⁄4" 13⁄4" 20" 1 BB
as shown in Photo B, and H Drawer 3 front 3
⁄4" 4" 20" 1 BB
then drill 7⁄16"-deep hinge cup I Drawer 4 front 3
⁄4" 81⁄16" 20" 1 BB
holes on the door using the J Drawer 1 and 2 sides 1
⁄2" 13⁄8" 153⁄8" 4 BB
reference lines as guides. Press K Drawer 3 sides 1
⁄2" 35⁄8" 153⁄8" 2 BB
the hinges into place, and then L Drawer 4 sides 1
⁄2" 7 ⁄2"
1
153⁄8" 2 BB
drive the supplied screws. M Drawer backs for 1 and 2 1
⁄2" 2 ⁄2"
1
171⁄2" 2 BB
3 Attach the hinge mounting N Drawer back for drawer 3 1
⁄2" 3 ⁄8"
5
171⁄2" 1 BB
plates to the inside of the case, O Drawer back for drawer 4 1
⁄2" 71⁄2" 171⁄2" 1 BB
where shown. Now attach the P Door 3
⁄4" 17" 193⁄4" 1 BB
door to the case by clipping the Q Cleats 3
⁄4" 1" 121⁄4" 2 HM
hinges to the mounting plates. Materials: BB=Baltic Birch Plywood, HM=Hard Maple

Finishing up
1 Remove the doors, drawers, Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
and hardware, inspect the 1. WoodRiver 6" (150mm) #140655 $4.19
parts, and finish-sand as Stainless Steel Cabinetmaker’s Rule
needed. Apply a clear finish. 2. DrillRite 35mm Hinge Jig and Bit #143958 $11.50
2 Cut and attach the cleats (Q)
3. Blum 110° CLIP Top Hinge with Blumotion, #152740 $17.99
to the case bottom to prevent Full Overlay, pair
the cabinet from sliding out
4. General Finishes Enduro-Var Top Coat, #151028 $29.99
when moving your workbench.
Semi-Gloss, Quart
3 Reinstall the drawers and
Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
the mounting plates and door. Prices subject to change without notice.
Finally, round up your favorite Hardware/Supplies: (26) #8 × 11⁄2" flathead wood screws;
tools and stock your cabinet. n (9) #6 × 3⁄4" flathead wood screws; 11⁄4" pin nails.

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 57
 WorldMags.net

Planer Cart
Portability without the back strain
By Paul Anthony

W hen it comes to portable

planers, the term “portable” is a bit
of a stretch. Any of these machines
is heavy enough to cause your
back to protest when stashing the
tool away on a shelf or under a
bench. And yet a portable planer
needs to be moveable so it can
be stored when not in use in a
space-starved shop. For me, the
answer is to mount a portable
planer on a space-saving mobile
cart that includes drawers
so that the space below the
machine isn’t wasted.
This cart is tall enough
to allow comfortable stock
feeding, but low enough to
ensure stable mobility. The
4"-thick plywood case, with
3⁄

its solid wood face frame, is

Overall dimensions: 24"w × 201⁄2"d × 25"h
58 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
stout enough to carry a heavy
machine and large enough to
accommodate most portable
planers models currently on
the market. A shallow top
drawer accommodates machine
wrenches, extra knives, and
other small accoutrements. The
lower drawer is deep enough to
house general tools and supplies,
and the self-closing slides keep
the drawers from opening when
pushing the unit around. The
heavy-duty casters ensure smooth,
reliable mobility when needed and
rock solid footing when locked for
planing operations. This is one shop
accessory that really earns its keep.
 WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Planer Cart Exploded View

#6 × 11⁄4”
flathead screw
#6 × 11⁄4"
flathead screw 21⁄2"

8-32 × 11⁄2"
panhead screw

⁄2" rabbet,
1

⁄4" deep
1

12"

2"

⁄4" rabbet,
3

⁄4" deep
1

Non-swiveling
caster

5
⁄16 × 1" Swiveling
Lag screw caster #6 × 1"
(with washer) flathead screw
17⁄16"

Build the case

1 Lay out and cut the case sides
(A) and top and bottom (B) to
the sizes shown in the Cut List.
2 Using a dado head on the
tablesaw, cut the 3⁄4"-wide by
4"-deep rabbets in the sides
1⁄

(Photo A), setting up the cut

with scrap. Alternatively,
you could use a router and
straightedge for the job.
3 With the dado head at the
same height, adjust the rip
fence for a 1⁄2"-wide cut, and saw
the rabbets in the rear edges A
of the sides, top, and bottom, Saw the rabbets in the case sides using a dado head and
where shown in Figure 1. a sacrificial fence clamped to your rip fence.
WorldMags.net
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Paul Anthony; Illustration: Frank Rohrbach III
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 59
 WorldMags.net
B with the edges of the case.
Glue up the case with the unglued back inserted to keep things square.
A tab of duct tape allows easy removal of the back for internal inspection.
4 Dry-clamp the case sides 6 Mill the stiles (D) and rails
(A) to the top and bottom (B), (E) to the sizes shown in the
and measure for an exact fit Cut List, with one exception:
of the back panel (C). Saw make each stile about 1⁄16"
the panel to size, making oversized in width for now.
sure it’s absolutely square. (You’ll trim their edges flush
5 Working on a flat surface, to the case after attaching the
glue up the case with the face frame.) Use a stopblock
unglued back dry-fit in its when cutting the rails to length
rabbets to keep things square to ensure they are all cut to
(Photo B). Use clamping cauls to precisely 191⁄2" long for proper
distribute the clamping pressure drawer fit and operation.
across the joints. (Instead of 7 Using a pocket-hole jig,
clamping, you can glue and nail, drill the screw pockets in the
puttying the nail holes later.) ends of the rails (Photo C).
8 Mark the intended location
of the center rail 12" from
the bottom end of each stile,
where shown in Figure 1. Then
screw the face frame together
using 11⁄4"-long washer head
screws designed for pocket-
hole joinery (Photo D). If
necessary, sand or plane the
rear face of the assembled face
frame flat and smooth at its
perimeter for good contact
9 Slip the back (C) into place
unglued, and lay the case on
its back on a dead flat surface.
Temporarily clamp the face
frame (D, E) to the front of the
case, carefully centering it side
to side. Now make and fit your
drawer slide shims (F) to the
sizes shown in the Cut List,
gluing paper or cardboard to
them if necessary to perfectly
align the faces of the shims with
the interior edges of the stiles
(D). Note the particular location
of each shim with a number.
10 Mark out the screw-hole
locations on each drawer slide
shim (F), positioning them to
avoid interference with the
future locations of the drawer-
slide mounting holes, and then

C
Drill screw pockets into the D
rear faces of the rails to allow Clamp a rail and stile into alignment using locking pliers designed
their attachment to the stiles. for the job, and pull the parts together with screws.
60 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
 WorldMags.net

F
E Raising the case on wooden I-beams allows
Use spacers to ensure accurate placement and full clamping access around the case
quick attachment of the drawer slide shims. perimeter for attaching the face frame.

drill and countersink clearance
holes for #6 screws. Referring to
Figure 1, set the bottom shims
2" up from the inside bottom of
the case and the top shim 21⁄2"
down inside from the inside top
of the case, and then attach the
shims to the case sides (A) using
#6 × 11⁄4"-long screws (Photo E).
11 In preparation for attaching
the face frame, plane the front
edges of the case if necessary
to flush them up, and rehearse
your face frame clamp-up,
pre-adjusting your clamps in
the process (Photo F). Then
reinsert the case back (C)
unglued into its rabbets, and
glue and clamp the face frame
to the case, carefully aligning
the interior edges of the face
frame with the faces of the
drawer shims (F). (Alternatively,
you can use pocket screws, as
shown in the photos on page 67.)
12 After the glue dries, use a
flush-trim router bit to shave
the edges of the face frame flush
with the case sides (Photo G).
Make the drawers
1 Cut the drawer box parts
(G, H, I, J, K) to the sizes shown in
the Cut List, carefully squaring
every end. Then saw the joints as
described in the sidebar, page 62.
2 Carefully sand away any
fuzz on the joint edges with
220-grit paper. Also, ease the
sharp corners of the tongues
on the drawer bottoms (K)
for easy insertion into their
grooves during glue-up.
3 Dry-assemble the drawers
to rehearse your clamp-up
procedures and check
the joint fits. Make any
necessary adjustments.
4 Glue up the drawer boxes,
spot-gluing the bottoms here
and there in their grooves. Work
on a flat surface, making sure
the assemblies are square under
clamping pressure (Photo H).

G
Use a flush-trim bit to rout the
perimeter of the face frame flush
to the case sides, top, and bottom.
H
Check the square of the glued-up drawer boxes by
comparing diagonals to ensure they’re equal.
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 61
 WorldMags.net
Perfect, Simple Drawer Joinery
Building drawer boxes from 1⁄2"-thick plywood
doesn’t get much easier than this. All you need
are your precut drawer parts, a good quality
dado head, and some scrap to test your setup.
To set up for the process, adjust your dado
head for a 1⁄4"-wide cut. Stand a piece of plywood
drawer stock on edge against the fence, and
position the fence so that the outer face of the
plywood is flush with the outer edge of the saw
teeth. Then adjust the blade height for a 1⁄4"-
deep cut using scrap to confirm the setting. Lock
the blade at that height for the entire following
process. Now you’re ready to make your cuts:
1 Saw the dadoes in the drawer sides. Then, using
the same setup, cut the drawer bottom grooves on
the inside faces of the sides, fronts, and backs.
2 Readjust the fence until test cuts yield a rabbet
with a tongue that fits snugly without force into
the dadoes you cut in Step 1. Then saw the rabbets
on the drawer fronts and backs by standing the
parts on end, supported by a raised featherboard.
3 Reposition the fence about 1⁄64" closer to the
blade. (This will allow the drawer bottoms to slide
easily in their grooves for trouble-free assembly.)
Cut the rabbets on all four edges of each drawer
bottom. The drawers are now ready to assemble.

1 2 3

Side Front and Bottom

back

Install the drawer slides Make the top

1 Screw the case-half of each
drawer slide to its shim (F),
aligning the bottom edges
of each, and recessing the
forward end 1⁄16" back from the
front edge of the face frame.
2 Screw the drawer-half of
each slide to its respective
drawer side, setting the
forward end of the slide flush
with the front edge of the
drawer, and offsetting the
bottom edge of each slide
I 17⁄16" up from the bottom edge
A 17⁄16"-wide spacer makes quick, of the drawer sides (G, I)
accurate work of aligning the (Photo I). I use a plywood
drawer slides for attachment. spacer for the job.
62 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
and drawer fronts
1 Make the false drawer fronts
(L, M) to the sizes shown, edge-
gluing boards to make the large
drawer front (M) if you don’t have
wide enough stock. Also joint and
edge-glue enough boards to make
the top (N), and then saw it to the
dimensions shown in the Cut List.
2 Rout or hand-plane a 1⁄8"
chamfer around the edges
of the false drawer fronts
(L, M) and top (N).
3 Attach the false drawer
fronts with countersunk #6 × 1"
flathead screws through
clearance holes drilled in the
 WorldMags.net
Refined or Rough-and-
Ready: Your Choice
So why bother sanding and
finishing this cart? It’s just a
shop accessory, right? Well,
maybe. Truth is, this handy little
unit would be just as much
at home in an office or other
workroom after it has served
its shop time. It would be a
shame if it was too shoddily
dressed for the occasion.

J
drawer box. Offset the bottom Align the long edge of each swiveling caster flush with the front of the
edge of each drawer front 3⁄4" cabinet. Inset each fixed caster 1⁄2" from the rear edge of the cabinet.
away from the bottom edge of its
drawer box. Then lay out and drill Planer Cart Cut List
the 3⁄16"-diameter through holes Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat’l
for the drawer pulls, which are A Sides 3
⁄4" 18 ⁄4"
1
20" 2 HP
centered on the drawer fronts.
B Top and bottom 3
⁄4" 181⁄4" 211⁄2" 2 HP
C Back ⁄2" 21 ⁄2" 19" 1 HP
Finish up
1 1

1 Ease all sharp edges with D

E
Stiles
Rails
3

3
⁄4"
⁄4"
11⁄2"
1 ⁄2"
1
20"
19 ⁄2"
1
2
3
M
M
150-grit paper, and sand all
exposed surfaces through 220 F Drawer slide shims 3
⁄4" 2" 17 ⁄4"
3
4 HP
grit. Thoroughly blast away any G Small drawer sides 1
⁄2" 4" 18" 2 HP
dust on the case interior and H Small drawer front and back 1
⁄2" 4" 18" 2 HP
exterior using compressed air, I Large drawer sides 1
⁄2" 91⁄2" 18" 2 HP
and then attach the back (C) with J Large drawer front and back 1
⁄2" 9 ⁄2"
1
18" 2 HP
glue and 11⁄2"-long finish nails. ⁄2"
K Drawer bottoms 17 ⁄16" 17 ⁄16" 2 HP
2
1 7 15

Attach the casters with 5⁄16" × 1"

L Small drawer false front 3
⁄4" 6" 201⁄2" 1 M
lag screws, as shown in Photo J.
M Large drawer false front 3
⁄4" 11 ⁄2"
1
20 ⁄2"
1
1 M
Install the swiveling casters
at the front of the cabinet and N Top 3
⁄4" 201⁄2" 24" 1 M
the fixed casters at the rear. Materials: HP=Hardwood Plywood, M=Maple
3 Apply the finish of your choice.
I used three coats of Enduro-Var. Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
4 Attach the pulls with 8-32 ×
1. Accuride 3832SC 18" Self-closing Drawer Slides, #142861 $21.50
11⁄2" panhead machine screws. Clear Zinc (2 sets needed)
5 Attach the top with
2. 3" Caster, Non-locking, Non-swiveling with #141052 $11.99
countersunk #6 × 1" flathead 4-Hole Mounting Plate, 41⁄4" Tall (2 needed)
screws from inside the case.
6 Finally, screw your planer to 3. 3" Caster, Double-locking, Swiveling with 4-Hole
Mounting Plate, 41⁄4" Tall (2 needed)
#141051 $18.99
the cart. Alternatively, you can
attach cleats to the top at the 4. General Finishes Enduro-Var Top Coat, #151028 $29.99
Semi-Gloss, qt.
perimeter of the machine base.
You just want to keep it from 5.* Amerock Pull, Brass (2 needed) #130144 $4.99 each
sliding off the top should the
casters suddenly encounter an Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice. *Available only by calling (800) 225-1153.
obstruction during travel. n
WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 63
 WorldMags.net
Power
Tower
Custom-made parking
for portable power tools
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
A sk any woodworker
struggling to carve a workshop
from a basement or garage,
and you’ll learn that the most
valuable commodity isn’t tools
or materials–it’s space. Often,
the worst space-eaters aren’t
the tools you’re using; they’re
the ones you aren’t. By offering
convenient parking spots for all
sorts of portable and benchtop
64 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
Overall dimensions: 32"w × 24"l × 761⁄4"h
tools, this storage tower can
help fix your power tool pileup.
This “closet on wheels”
features hardwood face frames,
a center divider to reinforce
the open case, and adjustable
sawtooth shelf hangers to make
the most of available space.
(The plywood sides can provide
extra wall space for items such
as clamp racks or tool boards.)
And when you need even more
space, the heavy-duty casters
enable you to quickly roll a shop’s
worth of tools out of the way.
I designed the cabinet
to accommodate a wide
assortment of benchtop tools
and to minimize material costs.
(You’ll need only two sheets of
3⁄
4"-plywood and about 20 board
feet of hardwood). And for those
 WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Power Tower Exploded Drawing

Notch Detail
1" pocket 11⁄4" pocket ⁄4"
1

11⁄4" pocket screw screw screw

⁄2"
1

1"

3
⁄4" dado,
7
⁄32" deep*

⁄4" brads
3

6"

3" sawtooth shelf

support system

103⁄8" 183⁄4"

151⁄2"
1
⁄2"

4" locking 15⁄8" flathead screw

caster

*Adjust dado depth

5
⁄16 × 1" ⁄16" SAE
5 so that remaining
lag screw Washer plywood is 1⁄2".

working without the benefit Build the case Tip Alert

of a full-fledged workshop, I 1 From one sheet of ⁄ " 3
4

employed a few tricks so that plywood, cut the sides (A). For convenience, have the
they can build this tower with From a second sheet, cut the plywood ripped to 24"-wide
a few portable power tools and top, bottom, and fixed shelves at the lumberyard. Even if the
a small collection of clamps. (B) to the sizes listed in the Cut store’s cut is a little off, there
This cabinet takes up six List. (Note: Later, you’ll make should still be enough material
square feet of floor space, the center divider (F) from the for you to recut both edges.
but surprisingly, once it’s material left over from cutting
fully loaded, your shop the sides, and the adjustable
may feel a little bigger. shelves (I) from the shelf sheet.)
WorldMags.net

Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach III Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 65
 WorldMags.net

A B
Set the cut depth so that the saw teeth graze Use an offset guide to position the
the underlying foam. Stacking and sawing straightedge, and then rout both sides at
saves time and ensures symmetrical parts. once to ensure that the dadoes line up.

Unless you have a tablesaw 3 Chuck a ⁄ " straight bit

with a large infeed and outfeed
table, the easiest way to break
down sheet goods is by laying
the plywood on a piece of rigid
foam and using a rail-guided saw
(Photo A). (Alternatively, you can
use a standard circular saw with
a shop-made or store-bought
straightedge guide.) Cut one long
edge, measure the cut on both
ends, lay the guide rail in place,
and then cut the opposite edge.
Finally, cut the parts to length.
2 Using a framing square,
lay out the dadoes on one side
(A), where shown in Figure 1.
(Note: For tight-fitting dadoes,
use a scrap piece of plywood to
determine the actual cut width.)
Dado Depth Makes
All The Difference
Three-quarter inch plywood
is rarely 3⁄4" thick. To cancel
out sheet good shortcomings,
I set my “1⁄4"-deep” dadoes so
that the remaining material
is 1⁄2" thick. In this case, the
depth difference–barely a
1
⁄32"–makes fitting the face
frames easier and ensures that
the finished case is 24" wide.
66 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
1
2 (C), rails (D), and shelf edging
into a handheld router, and
set the bit depth according to
“Dado Depth Makes All The
Difference,” bottom left. Now,
clamp the sides (A) together,
and use a straightedge guide
to rout the dadoes across both
sides, as shown in Photo B.
4 Lay out and then rout the
stopped grooves in the sides
and the corresponding dadoes
in the fixed shelf and bottom
for the center divider (F).
5 To limit the number of clamps
needed to assemble the case, use
a pocket-hole jig to drill holes
along the ends of the top, bottom,
and fixed shelf (B), where shown
in Figure 1. (Note: Drill the
pocket holes on the faces that
won’t be visible after assembly.)
6 Test-assemble the case without
glue, to ensure that the parts fit
and to obtain the exact dimension
of the center divider (F). Cut the
divider to fit. With help, apply
glue to the dadoes, and then fit
the top, bottom, and fixed shelf
into one side (A) and clamp the
parts together with 1"-long
pocket-hole screws. Attach the
opposite side in the same manner.
7 While the glued-together case
dries, mill the stock for the stiles
(E) to the sizes in the Cut List,
but make the stiles about 1⁄16"
oversized in width. Also, leave
the shelf edging long for now.
8 Using a pocket-hole jig, drill
holes at the ends of the rails
(D). Position the stiles (C) on
top of the assembled case to
double-check the position of
the rails, and then assemble
the face frames using 11⁄4"
pocket screws and glue.
9 Again using a pocket-hole jig,
drill holes along the inside edges
of the sides (A), the bottom-face
edges of the bottom and fixed
shelf, and the top-face edges of
the top (C), as shown in Photo C.
10 Square the assembled
plywood case, apply glue to the
outside edges, position the face
frame on top, and then attach
the frame with 11⁄4" pocket
screws (Photo D). Repeat with
the opposite face frame.
11 With the cabinet lying
face frame up, use a handheld
router and flush-trim V-groove
bit to trim the outside
edges of the stiles. (Note:
You may also use a standard
flush bit. I use a V-groove
flush-trim bit for concealing
less-than-perfect joints.)
 WorldMags.net

C
Using pocket-screw holes along D
the outside edges reduces Clamp the face frame tightly to the case, and drive in the pocket
the need for clamps. screws. Reposition the clamps as you work your way across the case.

Attach the casters 6 Trim the shelf edging (E) Finish up

and shelves to match the notch-to-notch 1 Sand exposed surfaces
1 From 3⁄4" hardwood, saw distance on the plywood. Glue through 220 grit, and then
spacers (G) and caster mounting the edging to the plywood shelf. apply your desired finish.
boards (H) to the sizes listed in (The shelves should fit snugly. Fit 2 Insert the adjustable shelves
the Cut List. Using the caster them in at the top and slide them into the case, load up your tower,
bracket as a guide, lay out between the sawtooth brackets.) and you’re ready to roll. n
mounting holes. At the drill
press, drill clearance holes in Power Tower Cut List
the caster mounting board (H)
Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Mat’l
for the attachment screws and
A Sides 3
⁄4" 221⁄2" 72" 2 HP
pilot holes for the lag screws.
2 B Top, bottom, and fixed shelf ⁄4" 221⁄2" 31" 3 HP
3
Attach the spacers and
C Stiles 3
⁄4" 2" 731⁄2" 4 M
mounting boards to the
D Rails 3
⁄4" 2" 28" 6 M
case bottom with glue and
E* Shelf edging 3
⁄4" 2" 18" 4 HP
15⁄8" screws. Finally, attach
F Center divider 3
⁄4" 171⁄4" 31" 1 HP
the casters with washers
G Spacer 3
⁄4" 43⁄4" 24" 2 HP
and 5⁄16 × 1" lag screws.
3 H Mounting boards ⁄4" 51⁄2 24" 2 HP
3
Sand the case interior to 220
I* Adjustable shelves 3
⁄4" 21" 303⁄4" 2 HP
grit, and apply your desired
finish. (I used two coats of Materials: HP=Hardwood Plywood, M=Maple
*Indicates that parts are initially cut oversized. See instructions.
General Finishes Enduro-Var.) Hardware/Supplies: (16) 1" pocket screws; (16) 11⁄4" pocket screws; 15⁄8" production
Now attach the sawtooth screws; (16) 5⁄16 × 1" lag screws; (16) 5⁄16" SAE washers; 3⁄4" brads.
brackets to the inside of the
case with 3⁄4" brads. Then, cut Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide
the support strips (included
1. Freud Flush Trim V-Groove Bit,
with the brackets) to fit. #838923 $27.97
4 ⁄8" D, 1" CL (1⁄4" SH)
5
Make the adjustable shelves
(I) about 3⁄16" shorter than the 2. 3" Caster, Double Locking, Swiveling with
#141051 $18.99
4-Hole Mounting Plate, 41⁄4" Tall (4 needed)
interior dimension so that they
can be installed and readjusted. 3. General Finishes Enduro-Var Topcoat,
#151028 $29.99
5 Lay out 1⁄2 × 1⁄4" notches on the Semi-Gloss, qt. (2 needed)
plywood corners, where shown 4. Sawtooth Shelf Supports, Poplar #153504 $29.99
on Figure 1. Cut the notches Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Prices subject to change without notice.
with a fine-tooth handsaw.
Project photos: Brian Francis WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 67
 WorldMags.net

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68 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net
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www.wecointernational.com Phone: 810.686.7221

WorldMags.net Fax: 810.686.7564
 WoodSense
WorldMags.net
Spotlight on
Boxelder
The softest of the maples has lots
to offer woodworkers of all ages.
By Pete Stephano
Technical Consultant: Larry Osborn
T he forest products industry
classifies boxelder (Acer negundo)
as a “soft maple,” along with silver
maple and red maple. The three
are normally mixed and sold
together under the soft maple
label. At 27 pounds per cubic foot
dry, about the same as white pine,
boxelder rates as the lightest and
weakest of the maples. Although
a bit brittle, it works easily with
hand and machine tools, making
it suitable for woodworking
novices to practice on and use
for a variety of projects.
Boxelder stock is light-colored,
fine-textured, and close-
Turning
of stained
boxelder
70 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
grained. Normally lackluster,
the wood sometimes displays
raspberry-colored streaks
caused by fungal infection. When
wet or unseasoned, boxelder
offers up a nasty aroma that
fades once the wood dries.
History in woodworking
Boxelder has been used for food
containers such as crates and
barrels. Crafters have cut wooden
utensils (treenware) from the
wood. Add to this list toys, basic
furniture, and cabinets, as well
as carvings. Beyond that, both
woodturners and box makers
prize the red-streaked stock for
making eye-catching turnings and
decorative boxes. Commercially,
boxelder pulp has gone into
the making of fiberboard.
Where the wood
comes from
In North America, the greatest
quantity of boxelder grows
from the Great Lakes states
to the central Atlantic states
and from southern New
England to northern Florida.
However, because the tree
grows rapidly, especially along
streams and in lowlands,
it was planted extensively
in the West and Northwest,
even into Saskatchewan and
Manitoba, for erosion control
and windbreaks, and because
it can thrive in cold, punishing
climates. The largest trees of
this species–70' tall and up to 4'
in diameter–are found there.
What you’ll pay
Like sugar maple, boxelder lumber
grades range from FAS (first and
seconds, the highest) to No. 3B
Common (the lowest). However,
you’ll have to shop local sawmills
or small outlets for boxelder
within the species’ growth range.
It's not always an easy find.
An FAS, 4/4 (1"-thick) boxelder
board foot should run about
$3. Expect to triple that cost
for red-streaked stock. You
won’t find any boxelder veneer,
but specialty dealers will have
carving and turning blanks,
and possibly live-edge slabs.
How to select
the best stock
While boxelder lumber is
normally mixed with the other
soft maples, some specialty
sawmills within the tree’s range
 WorldMags.net
Boxelder
Quick Take
Cost Moderate
Weight About 25% lighter
than sugar maple
Hardness Roughly half as hard
as sugar maple
Stability Moderate
Flatsawn, fungi-
stained boxelder Durability Low (due to rot and
insect attack)
Strength Moderate
Toxicity Skin irritation
possible
Tool Type Hand and power
tools with sharp
blades and cutters
may separate boxelder and sell it When drilling, eliminate Common Decorative and
for a very reasonable price. Except burning by using high-quality Uses ornamental pieces,
for those trees that display wood sharp bits at a moderate to carvings, turnings,
with the unmistakable fungi- slow speed and by occasionally boxes, crates, some
produced red streaks, there’s little raising the bit and clearing furniture, and toys
noticeable difference between the hole of chips. To fasten
boxelder sapwood and heartwood, boxelder project parts together
so selecting boards for a project with screws, drill pilot holes It’s a fact that…
isn’t a difficult chore. Because first to avoid splitting. Native Americans sought
of the wood’s poor resistance All adhesives work well on out the burls and knots on
to decay, avoid it for all outdoor boxelder, but its tight grain the lower trunks of boxelder
projects. Boxelder may also won’t absorb glue easily. trees for pipestems, bowls,
display small, tight pin knots and Spread the glue evenly on the dishes, and drums. They boiled
birdpeck, neither of which affects mating surfaces, rubbing them the inner bark to make a tea
value and are allowed in grading. together if possible before that served as an emetic.
clamping for a complete bond. They also boiled down the
Working boxelder Boxelder sands wonderfully, sap for syrup and treats.
in the shop but blotches when stained,
If you’re familiar with machining just like sugar maple. For best
the “hard” maple known as sugar results, use a sanding sealer, Because the wonderful red
maple, you’ll find the much softer dewaxed shellac, or a thin coat streaking on fungal-infected
boxelder a lot easier to work. That of a wipe-on finish to partially wood turns brown after
said, like sugar maple, it, too, will seal the wood before staining. prolonged exposure to sunlight,
burn if precautions are not taken. Make sure the sealer and stain slow down the process with a
When ripping boxelder, feed the are compatible by testing them clear finish having UV protection.
workpiece at a constant moderate on a piece of boxelder scrap. Some woodturners and others
rate to reduce or eliminate Another trick is to go with a who regularly work red-stained
burning. The same is true when gel or heavy-bodied stain that boxelder fortify the streaking
routing, only here trim excess you wipe off and reapply to with aniline dye of the same
wood in several light passes. achieve the desired color. color to prolong its vividness. n
WorldMags.net
Illustration: Steve Sanford; Sample Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Vase Photo: Bob Hawks
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 71
 WorldMags.net

The perfect way to cut

logs the traditional way.

The Lynx saw range –

Available at Woodcraft
www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk
orderonline@flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk
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Automaxx™ Face Clamps and Bench Klamps make clamping fast and foolproof every time, thanks to new
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To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store Or For A Free Catalog, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 1-800-225-1153. 13WD09H2

72 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

 WorldMags.net

Experienced woodworkers know that Our Most Popular Saw Blades:

Forrest blades are ideal for remodeling
high-end kitchens and baths. Duraline Hi-AT—Great
for cutting two-sided
Forrest blades deliver smooth, quiet veneers and low
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© 2013 Forrest Manufacturing Code WC

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 73
Well-Stocked Shop
WorldMags.net

Detail Saws
Terrific cuts from tiny teeth

O ddly enough, many

woodworkers spend top dollar
on premium tablesaw and
chopsaw blades, but are satisfied
to work with junk handsaws.
This is particularly true in the
case of small handsaws used
for scroll work, cutting veneer,
making small joints, trimming
plugs, and other cleanup and
detail work. Sadder yet, many
woodworkers don’t even own
cheap versions of these saws and
don’t know what they’re missing.
Too bad, because these small-
cut specialists really earn
their keep, as shown in the
offerings here. So check ’em out.
That way, the next time you’re
finessing fine work or sawing
thin or delicate stock, ignore
the power saws, and reach for
the right tool for the job.
Frame saws
Coping saws have introduced
many youngsters to the world
of woodworking, but they are
good for more than pine board
sailboats and rubber-band guns.

Tooth Talk
Typically, the more teeth per inch
(tpi) that a saw blade has, the
smoother and slower the cut.
Choosing a saw with the proper
tpi for the job at hand requires
some experimentation. For the
right balance between cut quality
and speed (to be consistent) for
general detail work, I prefer a
19-tpi dozuki. For an exceptionally
smooth cut in stock less than 1⁄2"
thick, I’ll reach for a saw with a
36-tpi blade. If forced to select
only one saw, consider the Zona.
Although its 24-tpi blade tends
to stall a bit on 3⁄4"-thick stock,
it handles thinner stock well,
and comes with a miter box.
The blade can also be reversed
to cut on either the push or
pull stroke. The 60-tpi “model
makers” razor saw is capable of
super-smooth cuts in plastic, thin-
walled brass and wood, although
it stalls in thicker materials.
—Joe Hurst, senior editor

19 tpi 24 tpi 36 tpi 60 tpi

Hishiki Folding Saw Zona Saw and Hishika Miki Gyros Razor Saw
#845243 (JW), Mini-Miter Box (43⁄4" Detail Saw) #126820, $22.99
$52.00 #140347, $21.99 #157068 (JW), $28.35
(above)

74 WorldMags.net
Eclipse Coping Saw,
#154762, $17.99 WorldMags.net

Lynx Offset Handle

Veneer Saw, 15 tpi
#147415, $23.99

Olsen Adjustable Crown Straight-handed

Frame Saw, Veneer Saw, 25 tpi
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A go-to jobsite tool for fitting
moldings, these solid C-frame
saws are also useful in the
shop for tackling curves or
pierced work that might be too
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scrollsaw. Coping saw blades
are somewhat delicate, but
they’re inexpensive and easy to
replace when bent or broken.
For really fine work, step up
to a fretsaw, which is basically
a hand-powered scrollsaw.
Outfitted with the proper blade
to match the job, a fretsaw can
make smooth cuts and super-
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tight turns in a wide variety
of materials, including metal,
veneer, and solid wood. Fretsaws
are available with both fixed and
adjustable frames. Larger saws
typically have fixed U-shaped
frames, which are deep enough
to enable the blade to reach the
middle of wide panels. However,
smaller saws (which use
adjustable C-frames) are easier
to handle, as long as you don’t
need the deeper throat capacity.
The adjustable frame will also
help you squeeze a few more cuts
from shorter broken blades.
Veneer saws
For veneer, which is the thinnest
(and often most expensive)
stock in your shop, you need a
saw that won’t split or tear the
fragile material. The teeth on
veneer saws have no set and
are designed to cut cleanly both
with the grain and across it. The
convex blade allows you to make
long cuts while keeping some
teeth fully engaged in the stock–
something that would be difficult
to do with a straight-edged blade.
The saw is generally guided
against a straight edge of some
sort, beginning the cut with
a few light scoring strokes to
prevent splitting the veneer.
Saw on the pull stroke, starting
at the far end and pulling the
saw toward you, rocking it
backwards as the cut progresses,
and ending with the trailing
teeth contacting the work. n

Special Problem Solvers Veritas Double-

Detail Saw 25 tpi
#156791 (JW),
These oddly shaped saws fill a niche not Edged Flush-Cut $17.85
Saw, 22 tpi
met by other detail saws. Considering the #153792, $24.99
prices, you can’t afford not to have both of
these problem solvers in your toolbox. Keyhole saws
Flush-cut saws slice plugs, pegs, dowels, and other are designed to make
protrusions flush to the surrounding surface without pierced cuts. Although
scratching it. The 13⁄8"-wide paddle-shaped blade on listed as a trimmer for bamboo
Veritas’ flush-cut saw is flexible enough to be bent and bonsai, Japan Woodworker’s
perpendicular to the handle. The teeth are set to one stiff, tapered blade saw is equally suited for
side only, enabling an aggressive cut without scratching straight cuts and tight curves. Only 1⁄2" wide at the
the surface below. The double-edge blade allows you handle, this economical saw can start a cut from
to approach the cut from either the left or the right. a 5⁄32"-diameter hole in the middle of a panel.

Photos: Gary Tramontina WorldMags.net

Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 75
Ad Index
WorldMags.net
PRODUCT Website Page
Adhesives
Nexabond www.nexabond.com 23
Satellite City www.caglue.com 17
Titebond www.titebond.com/TBIIIvsPolyurethane IBC
Bits, Blades, & Cutters
Forrest Mfg. www.forrestblades.com 73
Freud www.freudtools.com/QuadraCut IFC
Pegas Sawblades www.grobetusa.com 18
PS Wood www.pswood.com 78
Whiteside Machine www.woodcraft.com 9
Carving
King Arthur Tools www.katools.com 12
Dust Collection
American Fabric Filter www.americanfabricfilter.com 79
Fortune www.woodcraft.com 47
Oneida www.oneida-air.com 23 &73
Hand Tools
Thomas Flinn www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk 72
Power Tool Accessories WECO www.wecointernational.com 69
Affinity Tool Works www.affinitytool.com 78
Kreg www.kregtool.com 15
Radar Carve www.radarcarve.net 79
TMI PRODUCTS
Innovators In Woodworking
A TMI Product • Made In The USA • www.TMIProducts.net
76 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
Power Tools
Fein www.feinus.com 1
Force www.forcetoolsusa.com 16
Laguna Tools www.lagunatools.com 3
Mirka www.mirkawoodworking.us 5
Jet www.jettools.com/1221vs BC
School/Instruction
CT Valley School of WW www.schoolofwoodworking.com 72
The American Woodshop wbgu.org/americanwoodshop 15
Turning Supplies
Berea Hardwoods www.woodcraft.com 77
Easy Wood Tools www.woodturning.com 17
Ring Master Lathe www.ringmasterlathe.com 78
Robust www.turnrobust.com 78
Wood & Veneers
Aromatic Red Cedar n/a 78
Northwest Bamboo www.nwbamboo.com 79
Woodfinder www.woodfinder.com 79
Woodworking Supplies
Apollo www.asi-hvlp.com 10
Aqua Coat www.aquacoat.com 79
BDH Belts www.BDHbelts.com 78
www.biggatortools.com 14
Big Gator Tools
Brand-First www.brand-first.com 78
Brusso www.brusso.com 68
Cabinotch www.cabinotch.us/woodcraft 23 & 78
Create-A-Bed www.wallbed.com 79
DMT www.dmtsharp.com 68
Earlex www.earlex.com 18
Eclipse www.eclipstoolsinc.com 17
Franmar Chemical www.franmar.com 68
Howard Products www.howardproducts.com 18
Japan Woodworker www.japanwoodworker.com 19
Powermatic www.woodcraft.com/goldrush 7
RoyalWood Ltd. www.royalwoodltd.com 79
Snappy Tools www.snappytools.com 79
TMI Products www.TMIProducts.net 76
Woodcraft Franchise www.woodcraftfranchise.com 11
Woodcraft Supply www.woodcraft.com 72 & 80
Woodpeckers www.woodpeck.com 13
V820S
 WorldMags.net

Lasertip “bites”
itself into the head
of the fastener to
ensure a perfect fit
and reduces cam-
out. This reduces
or prevents surface
damage from
Ergonomic Kraftform Handle designed to slipped drivers.
fit perfectly in the users hand and reduce
Part #0
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Torque transfer Include Screwdriv 6
s: 4 Slo er
is increased tted, 2 Set
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158289 Chrome (C)

158290 Gold (B)
158291 Gunmetal (A)
158292 Bushings (A) (B) (C)
(Phone Not
To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store Or For A Free Catalog, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 1-800-225-1153. 13WD09H Included)

WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 77
The Market
WorldMags.net
Aromatic Red Cedar
Shelving Boards • Lumber
Carving Blanks (any size)
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Please contact Mike Broadaway
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78 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net

CFP018_Woodcraft_Ad(2x4).indd 1 6/13/13 3:46 PM
 WorldMags.net
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WorldMags.net
Aug/Sept 2013 woodcraftmagazine.com 79
 Since 1928, Woodcraft has been committed to providing quality tools, supplies and advice
to our customers. From providing in-store classes and demonstrations to funding educa-

WorldMags.net tional woodworking programming, Woodcraft has remained steadfast in our commitment
to the beginner, intermediate and experienced woodworker for over 80 years running.

The American R OB
COSMAN
Woodshop “YOUR HAND TOOL COACH”

www.wbgu.org/americanwoodshop www.thomasjmacdonald.com www.RobsWorkshop.com

Woodcraft is pleased to continue sponsorship
of The American Woodshop with Scott and Suzy
Phillips, now in its 20th season on PBS.
Season 20 re-creates restored furniture accents
for every home. See the innovations that Rebuild,
Recycle and Renew beautiful spaces!!!!
Get your Tools Out!!!
Join Scott and Suzy to get the most out of your
woodshop tools! See new tools, glues and
finishes in action.
We are also proud to provide major funding for
the two-time Daytime Emmy® Award-nom-
inated public television series, Rough Cut –
Woodworking with Tommy Mac.
Join Tommy and Eli Cleveland for Season 3,
which promises interesting side trips,
including an episode on how wine barrels
are made in Napa Valley, California. Look for
Tommy’s blog featuring a post called
“Over a Barrel.”
Image of Tommy MacDonald
Photo © Anthony Tieuli for
WGBH Educational
Foundation
Woodcraft is privileged to partner with Rob
Cosman,“Your Hand Tool Coach,” featured on
the educational handtoolworkshop.com.
Rob Cosman’s daily online episodes teach the
proper use of hand tools and power tools in a
motivational and educational way. Hand-tool
demonstrations are Tuesdays and Thursdays,
and power tools are demonstrated Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays.
Purchase any WoodRiver® Hand Plane,
and receive a one-month FREE
subscription to Rob’s online
workshop.

Woodcraft Stores In Your Area:

Alabama Norwalk: Kentucky New Hampshire Portland/Tigard: Utah
Birmingham/Pelham: Woodworker's Club Lexington: Portsmouth/Newington: 503-684-1428 Salt Lake City/
205-988-3600 203-847-9663 859-231-9663 603-433-6116 Pennsylvania South Jordan:
Arizona Delaware Louisville: New York Allentown: 801-566-5652
Phoenix/Chandler: Wilmington/New Castle: 502-671-0900 Rochester: 610-351-2966 Virginia
480-539-9663 302-323-0400 Maryland 585-292-9690 Harrisburg: Leesburg:
Tucson: Florida Rockville: 717-939-6770 703-737-7880
North Carolina
520-742-9663 Jacksonville: Woodworker's Club Charlotte/Matthews: Philadelphia/ Norfolk:
California 904-721-9796 301-984-9033 704-847-8300 Downingtown: 757-466-1166
Orange County/ Orlando: Massachusetts Greensboro: 610-873-5660 Richmond:
Stanton: 407-260-5002 Boston/Woburn: 336-235-0900 South Carolina 804-355-3945
714-899-1422 Tampa/Clearwater: 781-935-6414 Greenville: Roanoke:
Raleigh:
Sacramento: 727-532-6888 Boston – Walpole: 919-781-1911 864-627-8760 540-366-7144
916-362-9664 Georgia 508-668-2413 Tennessee Springfield:
Ohio
San Francisco Bay Atlanta: West Springfield: Cincinnati: Johnson City: 703-912-6727
Area: 770-587-3372 413-827-0244 513-407-8371 423-282-9973 Washington
Dublin: Hawaii Michigan Cleveland/Oakwood: Knoxville: Seattle:
925-875-9988 Honolulu: Detroit Area: 440-232-7979 865-539-9330 206-767-6394
San Carlos: 808-841-9876 Canton: Nashville: Spokane:
650-631-9663 Columbus:
Idaho 734-981-6808 614-273-0488 615-599-9638 509-892-9663
Ventura: Boise: Sterling Heights: Texas West Virginia
208-338-1190 Dayton:
805-658-9663 586-268-1919 937-438-1282 Austin: Parkersburg:
Illinois Grand Rapids: 512-407-8787 304-485-4050
Colorado Toledo:
Colorado Springs: Chicago Area: 616-957-9663 Dallas/Addison: Wisconsin
Libertyville: 419-389-0560 Appleton/Fox Cities:
719-266-9889 Saginaw: 972-241-0701
847-680-9663 989-249-6662 Oklahoma 920-730-9663
Denver: Oklahoma City: Fort Worth:
303-290-0007 Woodridge: Minnesota 817-569-0777 Madison:
405-748-8844 608-273-8868
630-435-9663 Minneapolis/ Houston:
Loveland: Tulsa:
970-292-5940 Indiana Bloomington: 281-880-0045 Milwaukee/New Berlin:
952-884-3634 918-384-0100 262-785-6770
Indianapolis: South West Houston:
Connecticut 317-578-3400 Oregon
Hartford/Manchester: Missouri 281-988-9449
St. Louis/ Eugene:
860-647-0303 Kansas 541-685-0677 San Antonio:
Kansas City/Lenexa: Maryland Heights: 210-545-5885
913-599-2800 314-993-0413

QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLS • SUPPLIES • ADVICE®

20 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2009WorldMags.net
For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 13WD09P
WorldMags.net

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 EXPERIENCE
WorldMags.net
REAL
CONTROL

INTRODUCING THE
NEW 1221VS LATHE
60-3600RPM
VARIABLE SPEED

FORWARD TO
REVERSE
SMOOTH TRANSITION

DIGITAL
READOUT

RAPID
BELT CHANGES SEE THE VIDEO AT
JETTOOLS.COM/1221VS

STAND BEHIND YOUR WORK

TM

350+ SERVICE CENTERS NATIONWIDE INDUSTRY-LEADING WARRANTIES EXPERT TECHNICAL SERVICE

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