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Lately I’ve gotten quite a few “what’s the maximum ISO value I
should use on camera X” type questions. I’m not quite sure what’s Google Search
causing this, but I think it’s the wrong way to think about ISO. Web Search dslrbodi
The way to think about ISO is this: what’s the lowest ISO I can set
without impacting my focus (aperture) and motion (shutter speed)
decisions?
The problem with low light and bumping ISO is very simple: the
randomness of photons is not your friend. Assuming a perfect
sensor (no read noise, no thermal noise, etc.), the noise level is still
the square root of the number of the photons converted. Capture
100 photons, you have noise of 10 and a signal to noise ratio of
10:1. Capture 10,000 photons, you have a signal to noise ratio of Complete Guide
100:1. for the Nikon
D500
We don’t have a single camera on the market where raising ISO
doesn’t have clear image quality implications. Well, that’s not quite For 17 years, byThom
correct. The Canon 1Dx, 5DII, and 5DIII, and the Nikon D3, D3s, and has provided the best
D5 all have lower ISO values that are constricted by read noise, so books on Nikon
bumping ISO up above the base ISO to a modest level of 800 cameras, with the most
generally doesn’t have a problematic impact on visual quality on detail and clarity you'll
those models. So much so that I wrote in my book on the cameras nd. The #1 reader
that Auto ISO 800 is probably the preferred setting on a D3/D3s. comment about Thom's
books? "Thom should
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10/27/2018 What's the Highest ISO I Should Set? | DSLRBodies | Thom Hogan
And yes, some older cameras—particularly early Canon DSLRs— have written the Nikon
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tended to have razor-notched dynamic range charts where one manual [for that
speci c ISO value was better than the neighboring ones. camera].”
Since many of these questions I’ve been getting center around Advertisement
recent cameras, such as the D500, I’ll use that chart here (use that
link I just gave and choose your camera of choice from the menu if
you want something di erent):
Other byThom
When you ask the question “what’s the maximum ISO value I can Sites
use on camera X” you’re really asking a di erent question that I
What's New:
can’t answer for you. That question is “what’s the minimum useful
bythom.com
dynamic range I’d tolerate in my image?”
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10/27/2018 What's the Highest ISO I Should Set? | DSLRBodies | Thom Hogan
Bill uses a slightly di erent way of testing than I do, and DxO uses Nikon film SLRs:
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yet another evaluation method, but we each have one important filmbodies.com
element in our calculations: what’s the output? Mirrorless cameras:
sansmirror.com
Here’s the thing: no matter how good the rear LCD on your camera
is, it will lie to you about “acceptability of images.” If you’re looking
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at the full image on even the best 3.2” display, you’ve buried noise
so far by downsizing that you won’t see it. If you zoom in to 100%
view, you’re looking at pixels in a way you normally wouldn’t see
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them in a print (or onscreen, even on a 4K display). So as noisy as it
Updates
looks in the eld at the pixel level, it may be just ne for your Nikon D850 1.03 (Oct)
output. Canon 6Dm2 1.0.4 (July)
And that gets me back to why I can’t answer the question: (1) I don’t Nikon D5 1.30 (May)
know your output; and (2) I don’t know your tolerance for visible Nikon D4 1.11 (Feb)
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10/27/2018 What's the Highest ISO I Should Set? | DSLRBodies | Thom Hogan
Thus, if noise is really the problem you’re trying to avoid, your best
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answers are not boosting the ISO. They are: (1) adding light to the
scene; (2) opening up your aperture to a wider one; and (3)
opening your shutter for a longer period of time. This is why many
collegiate and pro indoor sports shooters rig strobes in the rafters
of the arena (add light). That’s why pros like f/1.4 primes and f/2.8
zooms (don’t lter the light so much). That’s why it always pays to
know what the longest shutter speed you can set that doesn’t show
subject/platform motion is, and why IS/VR is valued when you don’t
have subject motion (also don’t lter the light so much).
At the end of this process and only then you have to consider ISO
boost (or underexposure, which does the same thing on many
cameras, at least if you’re shooting raw, which you probably should
be if you’re in tremendously low light).
ISO boosts are a last resort. And whether you’ll like the outcome or
not is going to depend a lot upon how many photons got caught by
the sensor (and with smaller or older sensors, often how much
read and thermal noise is present).
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