ballet class 10

knit & crochet

patterns for
young dancers
Welcome to our
“Ballet Class”!
Young girls love to jeté, chassé, plié and
joyfully express themselves with dance.
You know the joy that comes with knitting,
crocheting and expressing your love
with the ideal hand-crafted gift. On these
pages we bring these two joys together
with dance fashions the girls in your life
will love to wear. We’ve included shrugs to
warm up at the barre, flowers and a bun
cover for pretty hair and leg warmers in
modern yarns.

Besides wearing these knit and crocheted

pieces to the dance studio, she’ll love the
shrugs and hair accessories to complete a
dress outfit. She’ll even enjoy wearing our
dance fashions with her everyday street
clothes. And the leg warmers will keep
her warm in cold weather while feeling
perfectly stylish.

Please join our “Ballet Class” on the

following pages and choose from our
adorable performers!

Page 2
Directory
Shrugs and Sweaters...........................................................................4
Hair Embellishments..........................................................................6
Leg Warmers...........................................................................................7

Patterns
At the Barre Shrug...............................................................................9
Precision Wrap Sweater.................................................................13
Perfect Form Shrug..........................................................................16
Warming Up Shrug..........................................................................19
Blooms for the Hair.........................................................................22
Born to Dance Bun Cover............................................................24
Perfect Pointe Leg Warmers........................................................26
Shades of Pink Leg Warmers.......................................................29
Joy of Dance Leg Warmers...........................................................31
Ballerina Bloom Leg Warmers....................................................33

Page 3
SHRUGS AND SWEATERS

At the Barre Shrug Precision Wrap Sweater

This comfortable crochet shrug is perfect over a leotard for This classic wrap-style sweater buttons at each side for
dance studio warm ups, but will also mix nicely with a casual easy adjustability. Knit pattern is written for sizes 6 to 12.
pair of jeans and t-shirt. Sized for 4 to 10. Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9700 Baby Pink
Yarn: RED HEART® Sparkle Soft™, 9404 Charcoal

DIRECTORY Page 4
SHRUGS AND SWEATERS

Perfect Form Shrug Warming Up Shrug

Modern feminine styling is just right for fashion-minded She’ll feel so pretty in this cozy shrug. A lacy eyelet pattern
young dancers. The decorative button at the neckline is featured in this easy garment that is as perfect for dance
allows for easy dressing. Crochet pattern is for sizes 4 to 10. class as over a sundress. Knit pattern for sizes 4 to 10.
Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9505 Aqua Yarn: RED HEART® Velvety™, 9010 Marshmallow

DIRECTORY Page 5
HAIR EMBELLISHMENTS

Blooms for the Hair Born to Dance Bun Cover

Keep an up-do neatly in place with crocheted Whatever size bun, this mesh cover can be tied and
flowers attached to small hair combs. adjusted to size. Crochet it in her favorite shade of yarn.
Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9590 Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9702 Strawberry
Lavender and 9700 Baby Pink

DIRECTORY Page 6
LEG WARMERS

Perfect Pointe Leg Warmers Shades of Pink Leg Warmers

Leg warmers are loved for their cool sense of style and Knit these easy warmers for ballet or anytime
practical warmth. Crochet these for the dance studio or to fashionable warmth is the need of the day.
wear with ankle boots. Sized to fit 4 to 10 year olds. Pattern is in sizes 4 to 12.
Yarn: RED HEART® Snuggle Bunny™, 9943 Dreamy Yarn: RED HEART® Snuggle Bunny™, 9965 Flamingo

DIRECTORY Page 7
LEG WARMERS

Joy of Dance Warmers Ballerina Bloom Leg Warmers

You’ll be glad you can crochet these quickly when she A pretty flower takes these leg warmers from plain to
wants them in an array of colors. Sized for 2 to 10 year olds. marvelous! Knit them easily in sizes from 4 to 12.
Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9590 Lavender Yarn: RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®, 9702 Strawberry

DIRECTORY Page 8

crochet
LW5061
Designed by Diane Moyer
What you will need:
RED HEART® Sparkle Soft™:
2 (3, 3, 4) balls 9404 Charcoal
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
5.5mm [US I-9]
Stitch markers, row counter
(optional), yarn needle
GAUGE: 12 sts = 4” [10 cm];
8 rows = 4” [10 cm] in double
crochet. CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
Use any size hook to obtain
the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART®
Sparkle Soft™, Art.
E728M available in
4 oz (113 g), 208 yd
(190 m) balls
PATTERNS
At the Barre Shrug
So perfect for budding ballerinas to wear at the
dance studio, this comfortable tie-front shrug
pattern is sized from 4 to 10. The soft yarn has a
bit of sparkle that allows a girl to shine whether
wearing a leotard, skirt or jeans.
Directions are for size Child 4. Changes for sizes Child 6, 8,
and 10 are in parentheses.
Finished Chest: 24 (26, 28, 30)” [61 (66, 71, 76) cm]
Finished Length: 8 (9, 11, 12½)” [20.5 (23, 28, 32) cm]
Special Stitches
dc2tog (double crochet 2 stitches together) = [Yarn over,
insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn
over, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over, draw through
all 3 loops on hook.
Fdc (foundation double crochet – This technique creates a
foundation chain and a row of double crochet stitches in one) =
First st: Place a slip knot on hook, ch 3, yarn over, insert
hook in 3rd ch from hook and draw up a loop, yarn over,
draw through 1 loop on hook (the “chain”), [yarn over
and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (the “double
crochet”).
Remaining sts: *Yarn over, insert hook in “chain” of
previous stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw
through 1 loop on hook (the “chain”), [yarn over and draw
through 2 loops on hook] twice (the “double crochet”);
repeat from * for desired number of stitches.
Fsc (foundation single crochet – This technique creates a
foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one) =
First st: Place a slip knot on hook, ch 2, insert hook in 2nd
ch from hook and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through
1 loop on hook (the “chain”), yarn over and draw through
both loops on hook (the “single crochet”).
Remaining sts: *Insert hook in “chain” of previous stitch
and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 1 loop on
hook (the “chain”), yarn over and draw through both loops
on hook (the “single crochet”); repeat from * for desired
number of stitches.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 9
LW5061 At the Barre Shrug
Notes
1. Body of shrug is worked in one piece,
beginning at the lower back edge.
2. Sleeves are worked directly onto the body.
3. Using a row counter is helpful to ensure
that both fronts and back have the same
number of rows, that both sleeves have
the same number of rows, and to keep
track of front and sleeve increases and
decreases.
Row 10: Repeat Row 3.
Row 11 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in
each st to last st, 2 dc in last st—18 dc.
Rows 12 and 13: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 14 (increase row): Repeat Row 2—
19 dc.
Rows 15 and 16: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 17 (increase row): Repeat Row 11—
20 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.

SHRUG Size 8 ONLY

Back
Fdc 36 (40, 42, 44).
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and
throughout), turn, dc in each st across.
Repeat Row 1 until piece measures about 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm] from
beginning.
Shape First Front
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, dc in first 11 (13, 13, 14)
sts; leave remaining sts unworked for neck
and second front.
Size 4 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc
in first st (increase made), dc in each st
across—12 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4-15: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 six more
times—18 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
Size 6 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc
in first st (increase made), dc in each st
across—14 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4–9: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 three more
times—17 dc.
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc
in first st (increase made), dc in each st
across—14 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4–7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two more
times—16 dc.
Row 8: Repeat Row 3.
Row 9 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st—17 dc.
Rows 10 and 11: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 12 (increase row): Repeat Row 2—
18 dc.
Rows 13 and 14: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 15 (increase row): Repeat Row 9—
19 dc.
Repeat Rows 10–15 once more—21 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
Size 10 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc
in first st (increase made), dc in each st
across—15 dc.
Rows 3 and 4: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st
across.
Row 5 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st—16 dc.
Rows 6 and 7: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 8 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc in
first st, dc in each st across—17 dc.
Repeat Rows 3–8 two more times—21 dc.
Repeat Rows 3–5—22 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
SHAPE SECOND FRONT
Skip next 14 (14, 16, 16) unworked sts (for
neck) on last row of back following first
front, join yarn with slip st in next st.
Row 1: Ch 1, dc in same st as joining, dc in
remaining 10 (12, 12, 13) unworked sts—11
(13, 13, 14) sts.
Size 4 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in
each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (increase
made)—12 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4-15: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 six more
times—18 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
Size 6 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st (increase made)—
14 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4–9: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 three more
times—17 dc.
Row 10: Repeat Row 3.
Row 11 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc in
first st, dc in each st across—18 dc.
Rows 12 and 13: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 14 (increase row): Repeat Row 2—
19 dc.
Continued...

DIRECTORY Page 10
LW5061 At the Barre Shrug
Rows 15 and 16: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 17 (increase row): Repeat Row 11—
20 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
Size 8 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st (increase made)—
14 dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 4–7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two more
times—16 dc.
Row 8: Repeat Row 3.
Row 9 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc in
first st, dc in each st across—17 dc.
Rows 10 and 11: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 12 (increase row): Repeat Row 2—
18 dc.
Rows 13 and 14: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 15 (increase row): Repeat Row 9—
19 dc.
Repeat Rows 10–15 once more—21 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
(same as back). Fasten off.
Size 10 ONLY
Row 2 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st (increase made)—
15 dc.
Rows 3 and 4: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st
across.
Row 5 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, 2 dc in
first st, dc in each st across—16 dc.
Rows 6 and 7: Repeat Row 3 twice.
Row 8 (increase row): Ch 1, turn, dc in each
st to last st, 2 dc in last st—17 dc.
Repeat Rows 3–8 two more times—21 dc.
Repeat Rows 3–5—22 dc.
Repeat Row 3 until shoulder measures 7½ Repeat Row 5 until piece measures about 14 across taking care to work at least one slip st
(8½, 10½, 12)” [19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm] (15, 16, 17½)” [35.5 (38, 40.5, 44.5) cm] from at the end (do not end with a picot).
(same as back). Fasten off. beginning, ending with a wrong side row as Fasten off.
the last row you work.
SLEEVES (work 2) Picot Edging (right side): Ch 1, slip st in Ties and Lower Edging
The pattern stitch is reversible, so there is no first st, (slip st, ch 3, slip st) in next st (picot Row 1: Fsc 54 (60, 63, 66) for first tie, with
specific right side. Before working the sleeves, made), *slip st in next 2 sts, (slip st, ch 3, slip right side of shrug facing, sc in each st across
select the side you like best to be the right side. st) in next st; repeat from * to last 1 (2, 2, 3) lower edge of left front; sc in each st across
With right side facing, place markers on sts, slip st in each st to end of row. lower edge of back; sc in each st across lower
both side edges of front and back, about 2 Fasten off. Repeat across other side edge to edge right front; insert hook in base of last
(2½, 4, 5)” [5 (6.5, 10, 12.5) cm] above lower work second sleeve. sc just made and draw up a loop, yarn over
edge (leaving about 5½ (6, 6½, 7)” [14 (15, and draw through one loop on hook (the
16.5, 18) cm] between the markers). FINISHING “chain”), yarn over and draw through both
Working across one side edge, join yarn with Sew side and sleeve seams, leaving a ¾-1” loops on hook (the “single crochet” – first
slip st at first marker. [19-25mm] opening 1” [2.5cm] from the Fsc made), work 53 (59, 62, 65) more Fsc.
Row 1 (right side): Ch 1, dc in same space as sleeve picot edging for thumb opening. Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
joining, work 32 (35, 38, 41) more dc evenly Fasten off.
spaced across edge to second marker—33 Front Picot Edging
(36, 39, 42) dc. With right side facing, join yarn with slip Weave in ends.
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across. st in lower right corner, working in ends of
Row 4 (decrease row): Ch 1, turn, dc2tog, rows work evenly spaced up right front edge, ABBREVIATIONS
dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog—31 across back neck edge, and down left front ch = chain; dc = double crochet; sc =
(34, 37, 40) dc. edge, as follows: single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); () = work
Rows 5–7: Ch 1, turn, dc in each st across. Picot Edging (right side): Ch 1, slip st in directions in parentheses into same st; [ ] =
Row 8 (decrease row): Repeat Row 4—29 next st, *(slip st, ch 3, slip st) in next st (picot work directions in brackets the number of
(32, 35, 38) dc. made), slip st in next 2 sts; repeat from * times specified; * = repeat whatever follows
Repeat last 4 rows 4 (5, 5, 6) more times—21 the * as indicated.
(22, 25, 26) sts.
6 (6½, 7, 7½)"
[15 (16.5, 18, 19) cm]
FRONT FRONT
[18 (19, 21.5, 21.5) cm]
[28 (30.5, 33, 35.5) cm]
[38 (43, 53.5, 61) cm]
15 (17, 21, 24)"
7 (7¼, 8¼, 8¾)"
11 (12, 13, 14)"
SLEEVE SLEEVE
[19 (21.5, 26.5, 30.5) cm]
4½ (4½, 5½, 5½)"
7½ (8½, 10½, 12)"
[11.5 (11.5, 14, 14) cm]
BACK
2 (2½, 4, 5)"
[5 (6.5, 10, 12.5) cm]
14 (15, 16, 17½)" 12 (13, 14, 15)"
[35.5 (38, 40.5, 44.5) cm] [30.5 (33, 35.5, 38) cm]
DIRECTORY Page 11
She’ll leave a little
sparkle wherever
she goes

DIRECTORY Page 12
 knitting
LW5058
Designed by Cathy Payson
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
2 (2, 2, 2) balls 9700 Baby Pink
Susan Bates® Knitting Needles:
5 mm [US 8]
Two ¾” (20 mm) buttons
(note: Only one button needs to
be decorative because only one
button shows on the right side,
the other is hidden on the inside
of sweater), yarn needle.
GAUGE: 17 sts = 4” [10 cm]; 24
rows = 4” [10 cm] in Stockinette
stitch (knit on right side, purl
on wrong side) CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size needles
to obtain the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art. E746
available in solid color
5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
Precision Wrap
Sweater
We’ve designed this classic sweater in four sizes for
girls of many ages. Dancers have loved this style
for its comfort and easy-fit throughout the years.
For Bun Cover see LW5048.
Directions are for Child size 6. Changes for sizes 8, 10, and
12 are in parentheses.
Finished Chest: 28 (30, 32, 34)” [71 (76, 81.5, 86.5) cm]
Finished Length: 12 (13, 14, 15)” [30.5 (33, 35.5, 38) cm]
Special Stitches
M1 (make 1 – increase) = Lift strand between needles to
left-hand needle and knit strand through the back loop,
twisting it to prevent a hole.
ssk = Slip next 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit to
right needle, insert point of left needle through front of
stitches, knit these stitches together through back loop—1 st
decreased.
ssp = Slip next 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit to right
needle, slip these 2 stitches back to the left needle, purl these
stitches together through back loop—1 st decreased.
Notes
1. Sweater is made from 5 pieces: Back, two fronts, and
two sleeves.
2. Sweater is slightly cropped and has 3/4 length sleeves.
BACK
Cast on 60 (64, 68, 72) sts.
Work in Garter st (knit every row) for 5 rows.
Beginning with a right side (knit) row, work in Stockinette st
(knit on right side, purl on wrong side) until piece measures
about 6½ (7, 7½, 8)” [16.5 (18, 19, 20.5) cm] from beginning,
ending with a wrong side row.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 13
LW5058 Precision Wrap Sweater
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 5 sts, knit to end
of row—55 (59, 63, 67) sts.
Row 2: Bind off 5 sts, purl to end of row—50
(54, 58, 62) sts.
Work even in Stockinette st until armholes
measure about 5 (5½, 6, 6½)” [12.5 (14, 15,
16.5) cm] from armhole bind off, end with a
right side row.
Back Neck
Row 1 (wrong side): P16 (18, 20, 20), k18 (18,
18, 22), p16 (18, 20, 20).
Row 2 (right side): Knit.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
With right side facing, bind off as if to knit.
LEFT FRONT
Cast on 60 (64, 68, 72) sts.
Work in Garter st for 3 rows.
Buttonhole Row (right side): Knit to last 5
Row 3: Knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3—21 (24,
29, 31) sts.
Repeat last 2 rows 5 (6, 9, 11) more
times—16 (18, 20, 20) sts.
Next Row (wrong side): K3, purl to end
of row.
Next Row (right side): Knit.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures
same as back, ending with a wrong side row.
With right side facing, bind off as if to knit.
RIGHT FRONT
Cast on 60 (64, 68, 72) sts.
Work in Garter st for 3 rows.
Buttonhole Row (right side): K3, yarn over
(for buttonhole), k2tog, knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit.
Shape Front Edge
Decrease Row 1 (right side): K3, ssk, knit to
end of row—59 (63, 67, 71) sts.
Decrease Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last 5
sts, p2tog, k3—58 (62, 66, 70) sts.
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to last 3 sts, k3. Work even in Stockinette st until piece
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures measures about 8 (9, 10, 11)” [20.5 (23, 25.5,
same as back, ending with a wrong side row. 28) cm] from beginning.
With right side facing, bind off as if to knit. Bind off.
SLEEVES (make 2) FINISHING
Cast on 34 (36, 38, 40) sts. Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew side
Work in Garter st for 3 rows. and sleeve seams. Sew decorative button on
Beginning with a right side (knit) row, work right side of left front, close to left side seam.
in Stockinette st for 6 rows. Sew other button on wrong side of right
Increase Row (right side): K1, M1, knit to front, close to right side seam.
last st, M1, k1—36 (38, 40, 42) sts. Weave in ends.
Work in Stockinette st for 5 rows.
Repeat Increase Row—38 (40, 42, 44) sts. ABBREVIATIONS
Repeat last 6 rows 5 (6, 7, 8) more times—48 k = knit; k2tog = knit next 2 sts together; p
(52, 56, 60) sts. = purl; p2tog = purl next 2 sts together; st(s)
= stitch(es); * = repeat whatever follows the *
as indicated.
See next page for alternate photo
3¾ (4¼, 4¾, 4¾)"
[9.5 (11, 12, 12) cm]
4¼ (4¼, 4¼, 5¼)" 3¾ (4¼, 4¾, 4¾)"

[12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm]

[12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm]

sts, k2tog, yarn over (for buttonhole), k3. Repeat last 2 rows 14 (14, 11, 12) more [11 (11, 11, 13.5) cm] [9.5 (11, 12, 12) cm]

Next Row (wrong side): Knit. times—30 (34, 44, 46) sts.

5 (5½, 6, 6½)"

5 (5½, 6, 6½)"
[30.5 (33, 35.5, 38) cm]
Next Row (right side): Repeat Decrease Row
Shape Front Edge

12 (13, 14, 15)"

1—29 (33, 43, 45) sts.

[16.5 (1, 19, 20.5) cm]

[16.5 (1, 19, 20.5) cm]

Decrease Row 1 (right side): Knit to last 5 Next Row (wrong side): Purl to last 3 sts, k3.
BACK

6½ (7, 7½, 8)"

6½ (7, 7½, 8)"

sts, k2tog, k3—59 (63, 67, 71) sts. Repeat last 2 rows 1 (2, 7, 7) more times—28
Decrease Row 2 (wrong side): K3, ssp, purl (31, 36, 38) sts. LEFT FRONT
to end of row—58 (62, 66, 70) sts. Next Row: Repeat Decrease Row 1—27 (30,
Repeat last 2 rows 14 (14, 11, 12) more 35, 37) sts.
times—30 (34, 44, 46) sts. 14 (15, 16, 17)" 14 (15, 16, 17)"
Next Row (right side): Repeat Decrease Row Shape Armhole [35.5 (38, 40.5, 43) cm] [35.5 (38, 40.5, 43) cm]
1—29 (33, 43, 45) sts. Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 5 sts, purl to
Next Row (wrong side): K3, purl to end last 3 sts, k3—22 (25, 30, 32) sts. 11 (12, 13, 14)"
of row. Row 2 (right side): K3, ssk, knit to end of [28 (30.5, 33, 35.5) cm]
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (2, 7, 7) more times—28 row—21 (24, 29, 31) sts.

[20.5 (23, 25.5, 28) cm]

(31, 36, 38) sts. Row 3: Purl to last 3 sts, k3.

8 (9, 10, 11)"

Repeat last 2 rows 5 (6, 9, 11) more
Shape Armhole times—16 (18, 20, 20) sts. SLEEVE
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 5 sts, knit to last Next Row (right side): Knit.
5 sts, k2tog, k3—22 (25, 30, 32) sts.
Row 2 (wrong side): K3, purl to end of row. 8 (8½, 9, 9½)"
[20.5 (21.5, 23, 24) cm]

DIRECTORY Page 14
LW5058 Precision Wrap Sweater

DIRECTORY Page 15
 crochet
LW5060
Designed by Lorna Miser
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
1 (1, 1, 2) balls 9505 Aqua
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
5mm [US H-8]
One button, 1” [25mm] diameter,
yarn needle
GAUGE: 4 pattern repeats = 4”
[10 cm]; 8 rows = 4” [10 cm] in
pattern stitch. CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size hook to
obtain the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art. E746
available in solid color
5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
Perfect Form Shrug
Top off a girl’s look for ballet class or wear this
shrug over a tee shirt and jeans. It’s comfortable
thanks to the smooth, easy-care yarn, no matter
what the activity of the day.
Directions are for size 4 years; changes for sizes 6, 8 and 10
years are in parentheses.
Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Sleeve Cuff: 17½ (20½,
26½, 32½)” [44.5 (52.5, 68, 82) cm]
Finished Length at Center Back: 4 (4, 5, 5)”
[10 (10, 13, 13) cm]
NOTE
Shrug is worked from sleeve cuff to opposite sleeve cuff.
Sleeves are worked in the round. Shoulder is worked back
and forth in rows. Then piece is divided and Back and Front
are worked separately in rows. Stitches are added and piece is
worked back and forth in rows for opposite shoulder. Finally,
piece is joined again and worked in the round for the
second sleeve.
Front is longer than the Back and asymmetrical so it can be
worn buttoned or twisted on one shoulder.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUE
Fsc (foundation single crochet): Ch 2, insert hook in 2nd
chain from hook and draw up a loop (ch stitch made) * yarn
over and draw through 2 loops on hook (sc made), insert
hook in ch stitch and draw up a loop; repeat from * for as
many Fsc as called for in pattern.
SHRUG
Sleeve
Note: Sleeve is worked in the round.
Ch 36 (40, 44, 48). Being careful not to twist, slip st in first ch
to join.
Foundation Row: Ch 1, sc in same ch, sc in each ch around –
36 (40, 44, 48) sc.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 16
LW5060 Perfect Form Shrug
Round 1: Slip st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in same
sc, *ch 7, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from
* around to beginning ch-7 space, ch 4, dc
in first sc (ch 4 and dc counts as last ch-7
space) – 9 (10, 11, 12) ch-7 spaces.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in ch-7
space; repeat from * around, ch 3, slip st in
first sc – 9 (10, 11, 12) ch-3 spaces
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, *3 sc in ch-3
space, sc in next sc; repeat from * around to
last ch-3 space, 3 sc in ch-3 space, slip st in
first sc – 36 (40, 44, 48) sc.
Repeat Rounds 1-3 until pattern has been
worked 1 (2, 3, 4) times total.
Shape First Shoulder
Note: Shoulder is worked in back and forth
in rows.
Row 1: Ch 7, skip next sc, sc in next sc, *ch 7,
skip 3 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across
to last 2 sts, ch 3, skip next st, dc in same st
as first sc, do not join.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in
ch-7 space; repeat from * across, sc in 4th ch
of ch-7.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, *3 sc in ch-3
space, sc in next st; repeat from * across – 37
(41, 45, 49) sc.
Repeat Rows 1-3 for 2 (2, 2, 3) more times –
3 (3, 3, 4) repeats total for Shoulder; 4 (5, 6,
8) repeats total from beginning.
Shape Back
Note: Back is worked in back and forth in
rows.
Row 1: Ch 7, skip next sc, sc in next sc, [ch 7,
skip 3 sc, sc in next sc] 2 (2, 3, 3) times, ch 3,
skip next st, dc in next st, leave remaining sts
unworked.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in
ch-7 space; repeat from * across, sc in 4th ch
of ch-7 – 4 (4, 5, 5) ch-3 spaces
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *3 sc in ch-3
space, sc in next st; repeat from * across – 17
(17, 21, 21) sc.
Repeat Rows 1-3 for 2 (2, 4, 4) more times –
3 (3, 5, 5) repeats total for Back; 7 (8, 11, 13)
repeats total from beginning. Do not fasten
off. Cut yarn and set aside.
Shape Front
Note: Front is worked in back and forth in
rows and will be longer than the Back.
Join yarn with slip st in first st at lower edge
of Front and repeat Rows 1-3 as for Back –
17 (17, 21, 21) sc on Row 3.
Work until 6 (7, 8, 9) repeats total for Front
have been worked. Fasten off.
Shape Second Shoulder
Rejoin yarn in last st worked on Back, work
20 (24, 24, 28) Fsc – 37 (41, 45, 49) sts.
Beginning with Row 1, repeat Rows 1-3 as
for First Shoulder across all sts for 3 (3, 3, 4)
times. On last repeat, slip st in first st to join.
Second Sleeve
Beginning with Round 1, repeat Rounds 1-3
for 1 (2, 3, 4) times total. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Sew button on Front of
second shoulder, using holes in pattern as
buttonholes.
Abbreviations
ch = chain; cm = centimeters; dc = double
crochet; mm = millimeters; sc = single
crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); [ ] = work
directions in brackets the number of times
specified; * or ** = repeat whatever follows
the * or ** as indicated.
DIRECTORY Page 17
She’ll twist and twirl
in comfort thanks to
its ultimate softness

DIRECTORY Page 18
 knitting
LW5065
Designed by Cathy Payson
What you will need:
RED HEART® Velvety™:
1 (2, 2, 3) balls 9010 Marshmallow
Susan Bates® Knitting Needles:
5mm [US 8] and 6mm [US 10]
Stitch markers, yarn needle
GAUGE: 11 sts = 4” [10 cm];
18 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Simple
Eyelet stitch using larger needles.
CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use
any size needles to obtain
the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART®
Velvety™, Art E835
available in
3.5 oz (100 g), 134 yd
(123 m) balls
Warming Up Shrug
Take fashion to the dance studio with this lush
shrug in the coziest yarn ever! Knit it in girl’s
sizes 4 to 10 in an easy pattern with eyelets for
feminine appeal.
Directions are for size 4 years; changes for sizes 6, 8 and 10
years are in parentheses.
Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Sleeve Cuff: 23 (24, 25,
26)” [58.5 (61, 63.5, 66) cm]
Finished Length at Center Back: 12 (13, 14½, 16)” [30.5 (33,
37, 40.5) cm]
NOTE
Shrug is worked back and forth in rows from sleeve cuff to
opposite sleeve cuff. Seams are sewn closed at each cuff
leaving an opening in center for body.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
ssk: (1 st decrease) Slip next two stitches knitwise to right
needle, insert point of left needle through front of sts, knit
these sts together through back loop.
PATTERN STITCHES
K1, p1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Row 1: K1, [p1, k1] to end of row.
Row 2: P1, [k1, p1] to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for K1, p1 rib.
Simple Eyelet Stitch
(multiple of 4 sts + 3)
Row 1 (Right Side): Knit.
Row 2 And All Wrong Side Rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, *k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: K1, *k2, ssk, yo; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1-8 for Simple Eyelet st.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 19
LW5065 Warming Up Shrug

SHRUG

[13 (14, 15, 16.5) cm]

With smaller needles, cast on 35

5 (5½, 6, 6½)"
(39, 43, 47) sts.
Beginning with Row 1, work in K1, p1
rib until piece measures 2” [5 cm] from
beginning, end with a right side row.

[58.5 (61, 63.5, 66) cm]

23 (24, 25, 26)"
Begin Eyelets
Next Row (Wrong Side): Change to larger

[33 cm]
13"
needles and work in K1, p1 rib for 4 sts,
place marker, purl to last 4 sts, place marker,

[13 (14, 15, 16.5) cm]

work in K1, p1 rib across last 4 sts.

5 (5½, 6, 6½)"
Next Row (Right Side): Work in K1, p1
rib on 4 sts to first marker, slip marker,
beginning with Row 1, work in Simple Eyelet
st to next marker, slip marker, work in K1, p1
rib on last 4 sts.
12 (13, 14½, 16)"
Keeping in patterns as established, keeping [30.5 (33, 37, 40.5) cm]
first and last 4 sts in K1, p1 rib and center 27
(31, 35, 39) sts in Simple Eyelet st, until piece
measures 21 (22, 23, 24)” [53.5 (56, 58.5, 61)
cm] from beginning, end with a wrong
side row.
Change to smaller needles and work in K1,
p1 rib for 2” [5 cm]. Bind off.

FINISHING
Sew 5 (5½, 6, 6½)” [13 (14, 15, 16.5) cm]
from cast-on edge closed along long edge.
Repeat to sew same length closed from
bind-off edge. Leave center 13” [33 cm]
open for body.
Weave in ends.

Abbreviations
cm = centimeters; k = knit; k2tog = knit 2
sts together; mm = millimeters; p = purl;
st(s) = stitch(es); yo = yarn over; [ ] = work
directions in brackets the number of times
specified; * or ** = repeat whatever follows
the * or ** as indicated.

DIRECTORY Page 20
Luxurious and
unbelievably soft for
your ballet princess

DIRECTORY Page 21
 crochet
LW5049
Designed by Michele Wilcox
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
1 ball each 9590 Lavender A and
9700 Baby Pink B
Note: Only small quantities of A
and B are needed for this project.
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
3.75mm [US F-5]
Yarn needle, 2 hair combs
GAUGE: Gauge is not critical for
this project
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art. E746
available in solid color
5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
Blooms for the Hair
When her hair is in an up-do, it helps to have a
pretty crocheted flower to hold the ends in place.
Perfect for young ballerinas or anytime she’d like
to add a flower to her hair.
Flower measures 3” (7.5 cm) in diameter.
FLOWER (make 2)
First Petal Layer
With A, ch 4.
Round 1 (right side): Work 11 dc in 4th ch from hook
(beginning ch count as first dc); join with slip st in top of
beginning ch—12 dc.
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join and in each dc around;
join with slip st in first sc—24 sc.
Round 3: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join, 2 dc in next 2 sc, hdc
in next sc, ch 1, slip st in next sc (petal made), *hdc in next sc,
2 dc in next 2 sc, hdc in next sc, ch 1, slip st in next sc (petal
made); repeat from * around, ending with last slip st in last
slip st of Rnd 2—6 petals. Fasten off.
2nd Petal Layer
With B, ch 4.
Round 1 (right side): Work 11 dc in 4th ch from hook
(beginning ch count as first dc); join with slip st in top of
beginning ch—12 dc.
Round 2: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join, 2 dc in next dc (petal
made), *ch 1, (slip st, ch 1, hdc) in next dc, 2 dc in next
dc (petal made); repeat from * around; join with slip st in
beginning ch—6 petals. Fasten off.
3rd Petal Layer
With A, ch 2.
Round 1 (right side): Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; join
with slip st in first sc—6 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join (petal made), *ch
1, (slip st, ch 1, 2 sc) in next sc (petal made); repeat from *
around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals. Fasten off.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 22
LW5049 Blooms for the Hair

Centerpiece
Leaving a long beginning tail, with B, ch 2, 6
sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with slip st to
first sc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave
ending tail through back loop of each st; pull
gently but tightly to close.

FINISHING
Stack layers of petals with first petal layer on
bottom and 3rd petal layer on top. Pull tails
of centerpiece though center of Round 1 of
all layers, tie a knot and secure on wrong
side of first petal layer. Sew to top bar of
comb between teeth.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS
A, B = Color A, Color B; ch = chain(s); dc =
double crochet; hdc = half double crochet;
sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); ( ) =
work directions in parentheses into same st.

DIRECTORY Page 23
 crochet
LW5048
Designed by Michele Wilcox
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
1 ball 9702 Strawberry
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
4.25mm [US G-6]
Yarn needle, stitch marker
GAUGE: Gauge is not critical for
this project.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art. E746
available in solid color
5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
Born to Dance
Bun Cover
Keep a ballet bun in place with a pretty mesh
bun cover. This one is easily crocheted and has a
tie woven around to adjust its size.
Bun cover measures 9” circumference x 3¾” long
(23 x 9.5 cm.
Notes
1. Bun cover is worked in rounds with right facing at all
times. Join at end of each round only when instructed.
2. Beginning in Round 5, place marker for beginning of
round and move marker up as each round is completed.
BUN COVER
Ch 2.
Round 1 (right side): Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook—6 sc.
Do not join.
Round 2: (Ch 4, slip st) in each sc around; join with slip st in
first ch of beginning ch—6 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3: Slip st in first ch-4 space (ch 5, slip st) in each ch-4
space around, ch 5; join with slip st in first slip st—6 ch-5
spaces.
Round 4: (Slip st, ch 5, slip st) in first ch-5 space, [ch 5, slip st]
twice in each ch-5 space around, ch 5; join with slip st in first
ch-5 space—12 ch-5 spaces. Place marker for beginning of
round and work in continuous rounds.
Rounds 5–10: (Ch 5, slip st) in each ch-5 space around
ending with last slip st in first ch-5 space. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Tie Ch 80. Fasten off. Tie a knot at each end of tie and weave
through ch-5 spaces of last round. Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain(s); sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); ( ) = work
directions in parentheses into same st; [ ] = work directions
in brackets the number of times specified.
See alternate photo on next page
DIRECTORY Page 24
LW5048 Born to Dance Bun Cover

DIRECTORY Page 25
 crochet
LW5057
Designed by Salena Baca
What you will need:
RED HEART® Snuggle Bunny™:
2 balls 9943 Dreamy
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
8mm [US L-11]
2 pieces of ribbon, about 18”
[46 cm] each, yarn needle
GAUGE: 8 sc = 4” [10 cm]; 8 rows
= 4” [10 cm] in single crochet.
CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use
any size hook to obtain the
gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART®
Snuggle Bunny™, Art.
E812 available in 3.5 oz
(100 g) 80 yd (73 m)
balls
Perfect Pointe Leg
Warmers
These leg warmers have a lot of great texture and
appeal. Crochet them in one piece from start to
finish in an easy-fit ribbing pattern. Finish off the
top with a bit of ribbon to keep them in place, and
to give them an extra girly touch.
Directions are for size 4-5 years; changes for sizes 6-7 and
8-10 years are in parentheses.
Leg Warmer Circumference: 10 (11, 12)” [25.5 (28, 30.50 cm]
Leg Warmer Length: 11½ (12½, 13½) [29 (32, 34) cm]
NOTES
Leg is worked in back and forth in rows and then joined.
Edging is worked on sts picked up along one long edge of
cuff and is worked in rounds.
Sizing Note: For the best fit, measure mid-calf while in a
standing position, make the size that is 1-2” [2-5 cm] smaller
than measurement. This design is meant to fit comfortably
around the calf.
LEG WARMERS (Make 2)
Leg
Ch 21 (23, 25).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each ch across – 20
(22, 24) sc.
Rows 2-16 (18, 20): Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc
into each st across – 20 (22, 24) sc.
Joining Row: With wrong side facing, fold piece in half,
aligning sts from first row with sts from last row, working
through both layers, slip st in each st across to join. Do not
fasten off. Turn Leg right side out.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 26
LW5057 Perfect Pointe Leg Warmers

Edging
Round 1: With right side facing and working
along row ends, ch 3 (counts as first hdc and
ch 1), skip next row, [hdc in next row, ch 1,
skip next row] 7 (8, 9) times, slip st in 2nd ch
of beginning ch-3 to join – 8 (9, 10) hdc and
8 (9, 10) ch-1 spaces.
Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each ch-1 space
around, slip stitch around first sc to join – 16
(18, 20) sc. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Weave length of ribbon in
and out of ch-1 spaces on Round 1 of Edging.
Tie ends into a bow.

ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain; cm = centimeters; hdc = half
double crochet; mm = millimeters; sc =
single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); [ ] = work
directions in brackets the number of times
specified.

DIRECTORY Page 27
Cuddly and soft,
in shaded textures
as special as
she is

DIRECTORY Page 28
 knitting
LW5051
Designed by Jodi Lewanda
What you will need:
RED HEART® Snuggle Bunny™:
1 (2, 2, 2, 2) balls 9965 Flamingo
Susan Bates® Knitting needles:
6mm [US 10]
Yarn needle
GAUGE : 12 sts = 4” (10 cm); 20
rows = 4” (10 cm) in Garter st
(knit every row). CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size needles
to obtain the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART®
Snuggle Bunny™, Art.
E812 available in 3.5 oz
(100 g) 80 yd (73 m)
balls
Shades of Pink Leg
Warmers
This lofty yarn is perfect for knitting up
a pair of cozy leg warmers. Girls will love them for
ballet or anytime they want to stay warm while
still being fashionable.
Directions are for child’s size 4; changes for sizes 6, 8, 10,
and 12 are in parentheses.
Finished Measurements
Cuff circumference: 6 (6¾, 7¼, 8, 9)” [15 (17, 18, 20, 23) cm]
Leg circumference: 8¼ (9, 10, 11, 12)” [21 (23, 25, 28, 30) cm]
Length: 9½ (10, 11, 12, 13)” [24 (25, 28, 30, 33) cm]
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
Kfb = Knit into the front and then the back of the same st.
LEG WARMER (Make 2)
Loosely cast on 19 (21, 23, 25, 27) sts.
Row 1 (wrong side): *P1, k1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
Row 2 (right side): *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2, then repeat Row 1 once more.
Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Working in Garter st (knit every row), increase every 10th
(12th, 10th, 12th, 14th) row a total of 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times—25
(27, 31, 33, 35) sts.
Work even until piece measures 8½ (9, 10, 11, 12)” [21 (23, 25,
28, 30) cm] or 1” (3 cm) less than desired length, ending with
a wrong side row.
Next row (right side): Repeat Row 2.
Next row (wrong side): Repeat Row 1.
Repeat these two rows, then repeat Row 2 once more.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 29
LW5051 Shades of Pink Leg Warmers

FINISHING
Using mattress stitch or flat seaming
technique of your choice, and catching half
of one st from each edge, use yarn needle to
sew side edges of piece together to form leg
warmer.

Weave in all loose ends.

ABBREVIATIONS
K = knit; mm = millimeters; P = purl; st(s) =
stitch(es); * = repeat whatever follows the *
as indicated.

See LW5058 for Precision Wrap Sweater

pattern.

DIRECTORY Page 30
 crochet
LW5059
Designed by Salena Baca
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
1 (1, 1) ball 9590 Lavender
Susan Bates® Crochet Hook:
4.25mm [US G-6]
Yarn needle, 1 yd 1/8”-¼”
(3mm-6.5mm) wide ribbon
GAUGE: 16 hdc = 4” (10 cm); 10
rows = 4” (10 cm). CHECK YOUR
GAUGE. Use any size hook to
obtain the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art. E746
available in solid color
5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
See LW5049 for Bloom for
Your Hair pattern.
Joy of Dance
Leg Warmers
These leg warmers are so quick to crochet,
you’ll have time to make a wardrobe of them
in an array of colors! First the ribbed cuff is
crocheted then the leg is worked in rounds
across top edge of rib.
Directions are for size Small (2-3 years). Changes for
sizes Medium (4-7 years) and Large (8-10 years) are in
parentheses.
Leg warmer measures 7½ (8½, 9½)”
[19 (21.5, 24) cm] in circumference x 10 (11½, 12)” [25.5
(29, 30.5) cm] long.
Notes
1. Leg warmer is made in 2 sections: ribbed cuff worked in
rows and leg worked in joined rounds.
2. To determine the best fit, measure the wearer’s mid-
calf while in a standing position and make the size that
is 1-2” (2.5 - 5 cm) smaller than the calf measurement.
Leg warmer is intended to stretch and fit snugly but
comfortably around the calf.
LEG WARMER (make 2)
Ribbed Cuff
Ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—
8 sc.
Rows 2–28 (32, 36): Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in
each st across, turn.
Joining row: Holding first and last rows together and
working through both thicknesses, slip st in each st across.
Turn cuff so seam is on inner side.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 31
LW5059 Joy of Dance Leg Warmers

Leg
Round 1 (right side): Ch 2 (does not count
as a st here and throughout), working across
top edge in ends of rows, 2 hdc in first row,
[skip next row, 2 hdc in next row] 13 (15, 17)
times, skip last row; join with slip st in first
hdc—28 (32, 36) hdc.
Rounds 2–17 (20, 23): ): Ch 2, 2 hdc in
space between first 2 hdc, *2 hdc in space
between next 2 hdc; repeat from * around;
join with slip st in first hdc.
Round 18 (21, 24): Ch 3 (counts as hdc, ch
1), skip next st, hdc in next st, *ch 1, skip next
st, hdc in next st; repeat from * around, ch
1, skip last st; join with slip st in 2nd ch of
beginning ch—14 (16, 18) hdc and 14 (16,
18) ch-1 spaces.
Round 19 (22, 25): Ch 1, 2 sc in each ch-1
space around; join with slip st in first hdc—
28 (32, 36) sc.
Round 20 (23, 26): Ch 1, sc in each st
around; join with slip st in first hdc. Fasten
off. Weave in ends.

FINISHING
Cut ribbon in 2 pieces each measuring
18” (45.5 cm). Weave ribbon through ch-1
spaces of Round 18 (21, 24) of each leg
warmer and tie in a bow.

ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain(s); hdc = half double crochet; sc
= single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); ( ) = work
directions in parentheses in same st; [ ] =
work directions in brackets the number of
times specified; * = repeat whatever follows
the * as indicated.

DIRECTORY Page 32
 knitting
LW5050
Designed by Jodi Lewanda
What you will need:
RED HEART® Soft Baby Steps®:
1 ball 9702 Strawberry
In the Round Version
Susan Bates® Double pointed
needles: One set each 4mm
[US 6] and 4.5mm [US 7]
Stitch marker, yarn needle, two ⅝”
(15mm) buttons
Flat Version
Susan Bates® Knitting needles:
4mm [US 6] and 4.5mm [US 7]
Yarn needle, two ⅝” (15mm)
buttons
GAUGE: 20 sts = 4” (10 cm); 24
rows = 4” (10 cm) in Stockinette
st on larger needles. CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. Use any size
needles to obtain the gauge.
Buy Yarn
RED HEART® Soft
Baby Steps®, Art.
E746 available in solid
color 5 oz (141 g), 256 yd (234 m);
prints 4 oz (113 g), 204 yd
(187 m) balls
Ballerina Bloom
Leg Warmers
Knit a pair of leg warmers for a girl who loves
to dance or for a girl that just likes to keep her
legs warm. A pretty knit flower is the perfect
finishing touch for these comfy warmers!
Directions are for child’s size 4; changes for sizes 6, 8, 10,
and 12 are in parentheses.
Finished Measurements
Cuff circumference (stretched): 6½ (7, 7, 8, 8)” [17 (18, 18,
20, 20) cm]
Leg circumference: 8 (9, 9½, 11, 12)” [20 (23, 24, 28, 30) cm]
Length: 9 (10, 11, 12, 13)” [23 (25, 28, 30, 33) cm]
Note
This pattern is written in two versions. One version is knit in
the round and the second version is knit flat then seamed.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
Kfb = Knit into the front and then the back of the same st.
M1L (Make 1 Left Inc) = Insert left needle from front to
back under strand between sts and knit strand through the
back loop, twisting it to prevent a hole.
M1R (Make 1 Right Inc) = Insert left needle from back to
front under strand between sts and knit strand through the
front loop, twisting it to prevent a hole.
LEG WARMER
(In the Round Version) (Make 2)
With larger needles, loosely cast on 32 (36, 36, 40, 40) sts.
Divide sts onto 3 needles. Place marker to indicate beginning
of round and join, being careful not to twist sts.
Change to smaller needles.
Round 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)” [3 (3, 3,
4, 4) cm] from beginning.
Change to larger needles.
Continued...
DIRECTORY Page 33
LW5050 Ballerina Bloom Leg Warmers
Increase Round: K1, M1R, knit to last st,
M1L, k1—34 (38, 38, 42, 42) sts.
Work even in Stockinette st (knit every
round) for 9 (11, 7, 5, 5) rounds.
Repeat Increase Round—36 (40, 40, 44, 44)
sts.
Repeat last 10 (12, 8, 6, 6) rows 2 (2, 4, 6, 8)
more times—40 (44, 48, 56, 60) sts.
Work even in Stockinette st until piece
measures 8 (9, 10, 10½, 11½)” [20 (23, 25, 27,
29) cm] from beginning or 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)”
[3 (3, 3, 4, 4) cm] less than desired length.
Change to smaller needles.
Next Round: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.
Repeat this round until piece measures 9
(10, 11, 12, 13)” [23 (25, 28, 30, 33) cm] from
beginning.
Change to larger needles.
Bind off loosely in K2, P2 rib.
FINISHING
With yarn needle, weave in all loose ends.
LEG WARMER (Flat Version)
(Make 2)
With larger needles, loosely cast on 34 (38,
38, 42, 42) sts.
Change to smaller needles.
Row 1 (Right Side): K1 (selvedge st), *k2, p2;
repeat from * to last st, k1 (selvedge st).
Row 2 (Wrong Side): P1, *k2, p2; repeat
from * to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures
1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)” [3 (3, 3, 4, 4) cm] from
beginning.
Change to larger needles.
Increase Row: K1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L,
k1—36 (40, 40, 44, 44) sts.
Work even in Stockinette st (knit on right
side, purl on wrong side) for 9 (11, 7, 5, 5)
rows.
Repeat Increase Row—38 (42, 42, 46, 46) sts.
Repeat last 10 (12, 8, 6, 6) rows 2 (2, 4, 6, 8) Cut yarn, leaving a 12” [30 cm] tail. Thread ABBREVIATIONS
more times—42 (46, 50, 58, 62) sts. tail through yarn needle and insert through K = knit; p = purl; st(s) = stitch(es); * =
Work even until piece measures 8 (9, 10, remaining 5 sts. Pull yarn firmly and fasten. repeat whatever follows the * as indicated.
10½, 11½)” [20 (23, 25, 27, 29) cm] from
beginning or 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½)” [3 (3, 3, 4, 4) FINISHING
cm] less than desired length, ending after With yarn needle, sew 1 flower to each leg
completing a wrong side row. warmer as shown in photo. Tack button to
Change to smaller needles. center of each flower.
Row 1 (Right Side): K1, *k2, p2; repeat from
* to last st, k1. With yarn needle, weave in all loose ends.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): P1, *k2, p2; repeat
from * to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 9
(10, 11, 12, 13)” [23 (25, 28, 30, 33) cm] from
beginning.
Change to larger needles.
Bind off loosely in K2, P2 rib.
FINISHING
With yarn needle, sew side edges of piece
together to form leg warmer. Weave in all
loose ends.
FLOWER EMBELLISHMENT
(Make 2)
Petal (make 5 for each flower)
With smaller needles, cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: Kfb, knit to end of row – 4 sts.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1 – 5 sts.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1 – 6 sts.
Row 4: Repeat Row 1 – 7 sts.
Rows 5 and 6: Knit across.
Cut yarn, leaving sts on needle; do not
bind off.
Work 4 more petals same as first, placing all
5 petals on the same needle. Do not cut yarn
from last petal.
Knit across all petals – 35 sts.
Next Row: *K2tog; repeat from * to last st,
k1 – 18 sts.
Next Row: *K2tog; repeat from * to end of
row – 9 sts.
Next Row: K1, *k2tog; repeat from * to end
of row – 5 sts.
DIRECTORY Page 34
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