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SHARED WATER RESOURCES DIPLOMA - SWRD

BASICS OF SEDIMENT
TRANSPORT HYDRAULICS
Tarek Salaheldin, Ph.D., P.E.
Irrigation and Hydraulics Department
Faculty of Engineering - Cairo University

SPRING 2016
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2016

Content
Part 1 (Theory)
1. Definition of sediment transport
2. Sediment particles
3. Hydrodynamics of Fluid - particle System
4. Settling Velocity of particles
5. Effect of Particles on viscosity
6. Threshold of Sediment movement (Scour Criteria - Shield Diagram)
7. Total Sediment Load = Bed Load + Suspended Load + Wash Load
8. Bed-forms and Armouring
9. Cohesive Sediment (very Brief)
10. Sediment Measurements
11. River Geomorphology

Part 2 (Applications)
1. Design of Stable Channels
2. Bridge Scour (Pier + Abutment)
3. Scour Countermeasures
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2016

Definition of Sediment Transport

Sediment transport is the movement of the sediment


particles with the surrounding medium fluid (air or
water).
Scour or Erosion is the removal of soil particles from
alluvial bottoms under the action of flowing water
Deposition is settling of sediment particles on the
stream bed due to the decrease of the stream carrying
capacity
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Sediment Transport
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Scour
General Scour
(Degradation)

Original Bed

Degradation

Pier
Bridge

Constriction and Local


Scour

Constriction Local
Scour Scour
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Problems Associated with Sediment Transport


Excessive Excessive
Scour Deposition
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Problems Associated with Sediment Transport


Excessive
Scour

I-90 bridge collapse on Schoharie Creek, NY state, Failure of Bridge on the Enoree
April 5, 1987 (Courtesy of Sid Brown, Schenectady river in SC due to pier scour
Gazette)
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Sediment Particles
According to US Department of Agriculture and Atterberg’s Limits

Boulders > 64 mm
Gravel (64 mm – 2 mm) (Coarse – medium – fine)
Sand (2 mm – 0.075 mm) (Coarse – medium – fine)
Silt (0.075 mm – 0.006 mm)
Clay < 0.006 mm 100.0

D50 at 50% finer


50 %

Geometric Standard
Deviation measures the soil
homogeneity
D50
g = d84/d16 0.0

Sand Silt Clay


Typical Grain Size Distribution
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Fall Velocity
Semi-theoretical (spherical particles)
uplift ds
4 gd s  24  
Vf  C d  
(s  1)  1 .5 
3C d   Vf d s  weight Vf
g is acceleration of gravity = 9.81 m/s2
s is the sediment particle relative density (s = 2.65)
Cd is the drag coefficient

From Force Balance (Theoretical):


Uplift force + Drag force = Weight
1  3  3  d s2
Cd V f As  g d s   s g d s
2
s s As  
2 6 6  4
4gd s
Vf  (s  1)
3C d
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Fall Velocity
Effect of Concentration on Vf
Vf estimated for single particle is modified and slow down by the
presence of surrounding particles. Experiments showed that the
thick suspension have slower Vf than the single particle.
(modified Empirically by Van Rijn 1993 for Cs< 0.35)

Vf suspension  Vf  particle .(1  2.15Cs )(1  0.75C 0.33


s )

Where Cs is the volumetric sediment


concentration.
For example for sediment concentration 1% i.e.
Cs=0.01
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Fall Velocity
Effect of Suspension on the viscosity
The existence of sediment particle affects the viscosity. The
viscosity of sediment-water suspension differs from that of
clear water.

 sus
 1  keCs

Where Cs is the volumetric sediment concentration


ke is Einstein viscosity constant
ke = 2.5 for Cs < 0.1
ke = 4.5 for Cs >= 0.1
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Fall Velocity
Empirical Formula (Detriech Formula 1984)
(spherical and non-spherical particles)
From Laboratory experimentation on natural sediment suspensions

d 3s
D *  g 2

log w *   3 .7617  1 .92944 (log D * )  0 .09815 (log D * ) 2  0 .00575 (log D * ) 3  0 .00056 (log D * ) 4

Vf  (  g  w * )1 / 3
 is the excess sediment particle relative density ( = s-1=1.65)
µ and  are dynamic and kinematic viscosity
= 10-6 m2/sec
µ= 0.001 N.sec/m2
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Erosion Process in Watershed

Soil is continually being removed from land surface and transported downstram
until it deposits in lakes or seas or at man-made structures.
Erosion in watershed is the detachment of soil particles by the impact of
raindrops.
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Erosion Process in Watershed

The factors that control the erosion in watershed is


Rainfall regime, Vegetal cover, Soil Type, and land slope
The Sediment Yield out of watershed depends on
Climate, Soil Type, Land use, Topography, the existence of reservoirs or
check dams
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Total Sediment Load


The total sediment load consists of the
1. Wash load which is the very fine particles (never settles
down-very fine clay)
2. Suspended load which is transported as suspended
sediment (settle down) (clay, silt and fine to medium sand)
3. Bed load which is the coarser
particles that are transported
Suspended
beside the bed (coarse sand load Flow

and gravel) Bed load


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Water and Sediment


Hydrographs
The total sediment
load coming out of
watershed is function
of the water
hydrograph.

Qw + Q s
Suspended
load
Flow

Bed load
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Calculation of Sediment Yield


Fleming 1969
Where a and b are constant

Universal Soil Loss Equation


Where: Q s  R.K.L.S.C
Qs in average annual soil loss in ton/acre
R rain fall and runoff erosivity index 1
K soil erodibility factor (0.02-0.7 tons/acre/unit of R)  slope  length  2
L 
L factor related to length of the slope  72.6 
S shape factor related to land gradient
C crop factor 0.43  0.3s  0.04s 2
S
Slope length is in ft 6.613
s is land slope in %
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Calculation of Sediment Yield


Example
Using the Universal Soil Loss Equation, calculate the sediment
Yield out of a watershed Qs if the watershed has a length of the
main stream 12 miles, the rainfall and runoff erosivity index R =
0.73 and the soil erodibility factor k = 0.257 tons/acre/unit of R,
the crop factor C = 7.18 and the average slope of the main
stream is 0.0085

Q s  R.K.L.S.C
1
 length _ of _ slope  2
Qs in average annual soil loss in ton/acre L 
 72.6 
Slope length is in ft
0.43  0.3s  0.04s 2
s is land slope in % S
6.613
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Friction Equations
Chezy Equation
C is Chezy Coefficient (40-70 m0.5/sec)
2g
S is the longitudinal Slope (NOT %) V  C RS  RS
R is the Hydraulic Radius (R=A/P) f
2 1
a
Manning Equation V  R 3
S 2
n is the Manning Coefficient (Text Books) n
a = 1 in Metric system
a = 1.486 in English system 1
1
C  R 6
n
It was found that
ks roughness height D50 1
n  D 50
6
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Friction Equations
Strickler Equation
1 1 1
nD 6 D 50 6
D 50 6
50
n  n 
30 24 . 6
English System Metric System

Bottom Shear Stress


W sin    o .P .L
 o   w RS o

o
V*   gRS Shear Velocity

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Critical Shear Stress

At the beginning of motion

Incipient Motion
(Hjulstrom
Diagram)
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Incipient Motion
(Shields Diagram)

Deposition
Scour

o is bed shear stress


s is sediment density c is the critical shear stress at which
 is fluid density sediment start to move
0
g is acceleration due to gravity * 
D is sediment grain diameter o   c  Ss  1D 50
 is dimensionless bed shear stress
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Design of Stable Channels


Determination of the Riprap Size
The problem is to find the size of the grain size that will not move
under certain flow condition i.e. sediment load will be zero.
Use two equation, the Friction Equation (i.e. Manning or Chezy
equations with Strickler’s Equation) and Shields parameter
*.

2 1 1
a D 50 6
V  R 3
S 2
n 
n 30 or 24 . 6

0
o   RS * 
w
 Ss  1D 50
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Example 1
A rectangular channel is to be deigned with slope S = 0.01 and is
supposed to carry 30 m3/s of clear water and should be free of
sediment. The vertical banks are to be made of wooden boards
and the soil analysis shows that D50 = 50 mm (gravel) and the
Manning value is 0.025. What should be the dimension of the
channel?
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0  RS
    0 . 056 For large sediment
 s    gD 50  s    gD 50 particles

0 . 056 D (  1)
R  50
 0 . 462 m
S

2 1
1
V  R 3
S 2
 2 . 39 m / s
n

Q
A   12 . 55  B .y
V

B .y
R   0 . 462 m
B  2y

B  26 . 25 m & y  0 . 48 m
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Example 2
An irrigation canal is to carry 100 ft3/sec (2.83 m3/sec) through soil
consists of coarse gravel with size 5 cm. The canal is to be laid
along slope of S = 0.01 and is supposed to protect the banks
from scour by grass. Find the width of the canal.
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 0  RS For large sediment


    0 . 056
 s    gD 50  s    gD 50
particles

0 . 056 D (  1)
R  50
 1 . 52 ft
S

1
D 50 6
n   0 . 023
30

2 1
1
V  R 3
S 2
 8 . 55 ft / s
n

Assume  wide  channel (R  y )

q  1 . 52 x 8 . 55  13 ft 2
/ s

width  Q / q  7 . 7 ft
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Bed Forms in Alluvia Streams

3
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Bed
Forms
4

6
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Frictional Resistance
The total frictional resistance is divided into (skin friction +
bedform resistance

Resistance force on the bed=  b A b   'b A b   'b' A b


 b
  '
b
  ''
b

R b
 R '
b
 R ''
b

V *
2
 V *
'2
 V *
'' 2

Where the ‘ is attributed to grains (i.e. skin friction)


And the “ is attributed to the bed forms resistance
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Bed Load Transport Modes

Modes of Bed Load Transport


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BedLoad Transport Rate


We will study 4 formulas to calculate the total bed load transport
rate
1. Meyer-Peter-Muller Formula
2. Shields Formula
3. Einstein Formula
4. Du Boys Formula

1- Meyer-Peter-Mulleur Formula
2 2
q 3
b  39 . 25 q 3
.S e  9 . 95 D 50
Foot system

qb bed load per unit width (lb/ft/s)


q flow rate per unit width (ft3/ft/s)
Se is the slope of TEL
D50 sediment size in ft
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BedLoad Transport Rate


2-Shields Formula
  c
q  10 . q . S o
Any system
(s s  1)2
b e
D 50

qb bed load per unit width


q flow rate per unit width
Se is the slope of TEL
D50 sediment size
o is the shear stress
c is the critical shear stress from Shields Diagram
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BedLoad Transport Rate


3-Du Boys Formula
 o     
q b   27  o c
 Foot system
   
qb bed load per unit width (lb/ft/s)
D50 sediment size in
o is the shear stress
c is the critical shear stress from Shields Diagram
= 62.4 lb/ft3
D50 Classification 27 c
27 =parameter
depends 0.125" fine sand 523000 0.016
on sediment size 0.25 med sand 312000 0.017
0.5 coarse sand 187000 0.021
1 very coarse sand 111000 0.032
2 gravel 66000 0.051
4 med gravel 39000 0.089
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BedLoad Transport Rate


4 - Einstein Formula Foot system

 
q s  1  D 35
 35 
s s

s 
3

 sD 2
35 s
 1 R 'b S e

 35
• Determine Rb’ from Manning
Equation
• Determine 35
• get  from curve
• get qs 
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Suspended Load Transport Rate

 d  y 
Z
c a
 
y
. 
ca  d  a y 
Vf Bed
Z 
 .V * layer
a=2D

• Cy and ca concentrations at distances y and a above bed


• y vertical distance
• a reference distance
• d flow depth
• K von karman constant = 0.41 for low concentrations
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Suspended Load Transport Rate

q bed  load  2 D .C bed . V bed



V bed  11 . 6 V *
q bed
C bed   Ca

2 D ( 11 . 6 V * )
 
V*  R b . g .S e
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Integration of Suspension
d

q s   C y V y .dy
2D

Vy 2.3 y 2D
 log 10 ( 30.2 ) Bed
 k ks layer
V*

q total  q b  q s
Integration of Suspension

 0 .4 
q s  q b  PI 1  I2
 k 

0 .4  d 
P  log e  30 . 2  • Parameter of total transport
k  D

• Where I1 and I2 are integral values


• From curves if Z and A=a/d are known
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Total Load Formula


• The total load formula calculate the summation of both bed load
and suspended load (it does not calculate the wash load)

• Engelund and Hanson Formula (1967)

 Ss   .S e RS e
C t  0 . 05  
 Ss  1  S s  1 gD 50 
1
2
S S  1 D 50
• Ct is total sediment concentration by weight (kg/m3)
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Total Load Formula


• To get Ct in kg/m3

• To get Ct in PPM Ct x106 PPM

C(in  PPM )
• To get Qsed-total kg/sec Q sed  total  Q water 6
x1000
10
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APPLICATIONS

1- BRIDGE SCOUR AND FLOW FIELD


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FLOW FIELD

Three Dimensional Flow Field around Cylindrical Pier


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FLOW FIELD
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FLOW FIELD
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FLOW FIELD Y

a a X

Flow

Z Z
Flow X Y

Section a-a Section b-b


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FLOW FIELD
When flow approaches the pier it deflects upward and downward at the upstream edge of
the pier.
The upward flow causes heading up (rise of water level at the upstream edge of the pier)
and causes circulation near the water surface (standing bow wave).
The deflected downward flow at the upstream edge of the pier form small vortex
(horseshoe vortex) beside the bottom. This horseshoe vortex start to impact the
sediment particles and start scour at the upstream edge of the pier. Once the scour
hole is formed, the horseshoe vortex shift inside the scour hole. It removes more
sediment, deepens the scour hole and increase the scour hole size. This increase
the strength of the horseshoe vortex it removes more sediment and it has more
space since scour hole is increasing
The horseshoe vortex at the upstream edge of the pier which started the scour hole and
deepens it, it moves towards the pier sides forming and increasing scour hole
around the pier side edges.
The circulation of the horseshoe vortex at the sides of the pier is towards outside.
Once the horseshoe vortex leave the side edges of the pier on both sides it starts to
deflects upward again forming wake vortex behind the pier
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FLOW FIELD
The wake vortex is flowing upward at the downstream edge of the pier. The wake vortex
drops the sand and non-cohesive particles which it cannot carry forming some
deposits downstream of the pier.
Equilibrium (maximum) scour depth in non cohesive soil is formed at the upstream edge
of the pier and at the side edges of the pier.
In cohesive soil the flow interacts differently with the bottom. The downward flow causes
small circulation near the bottom (small horseshoe vortex)
The small horseshoe vortex near the bottom cannot overcome cohesive soil resistance
The small horseshoe vortex moves around the pier and when it leaves the pier sides it
deflects up forming the wake vortex. The wake vortex acts as vacuuming effect on
the cohesive soil surface (as tension). Cohesive soil surface cannot resist tension
so the wake vortex removes considerable amounts of cohesive sediment particles
and most of the scour in cohesive soil is formed downstream of the pier. No
deposition occurs downstream of the pier.

The wake vortex and its vacuuming (tension) effect cannot suspend or even keep the
eroded sediment into suspension.
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FLOW FIELD AROUND ABUTMENT


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Erosion of Cohesive Soils

Particle Erosion Mass Erosion 3

2.5

Mass Erosion
Shear Stress (Pa)
2

Particle Erosion
1.5

0.5

0
0 5 10 15 20
Time (hr)
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3

Erosion of Cohesive Soils 2.5

Mass Erosion
Shear Stress (Pa)
2

Particle Erosion
1.5

0.5

0
0 5 10 15 20
Time (hr)

Particle Erosion Mass Erosion


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Particle Erosion Mass Erosion


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Estimation of Bridge Scour


The most widely used equation was developed by Richardson and Davis
(1995) and it was recommended for both clear water and live bed scours in non-
cohesive soil by the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Hydraulic Engineering
Circular No. 18 (HEC-18). The HEC-18 equation was developed from laboratory
data.

0.65
ds b
 2k1k 2 k3   F 0.43
z z

where k3 is factor for bed condition and F is the Froude number. The
different factors introduced in the previously discussed scour predictors (e.g.
k1, k2, k3, kd, ky, k, ks) were evaluated in several studies (e.g. Melville 1997,
Melville and Sutherland 1988 and Raudkivi 1986).
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Scour Prediction Equation


Nakagawa and Suzuki (1976) developed the following equation to determine the variation of d s-t
with time t if the equilibrium scour depth ds is known.
where b is pier width, t1 is characteristic time at which (ds-t=b), and  is coefficient ranges from
0.2 to 0.4. Melville and Chiew (1999) developed an equation for the variation of ds-t with time, t,
known from equilibrium scour depth ds and the time to reach the equilibrium, te, for non-cohesive
soil.

  
1.6
  b  t 
ln  1   
 exp  0.03 c ln   
d st V t d s t
ds  V te   1 e  ds   t1 
  ds
Melville and Chiew (1999) introduced a new time factor, kt = (ds-t/ds), given by the previous equation.
This can be incorporated into any scour predictor formula to calculate the scour depth, d s-t, at any
time, t. The time to reach the equilibrium scour, te, can be calculated from the following equation

b V 
t e (days)  48.26   0.4  (y/b)>6
V  Vc 
b V  y 
0.25
t e (days)  30.89   0.4  (y/b)6
V  Vc  b 
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Scour Prediction Equation


Richardson and Abed (1993) found that the top width of the scour hole, W1, at
equilibrium around the pier in non-cohesive soil is a function of the equilibrium scour
depth, ds, and the angle of repose of the soil in water, . They developed the following
equation from experimental data:

W1  d s 1.36 cot   0.44   0.1


The bottom width of the scour hole, W2, is found to be a function of the scour depth d s.

W2  0.323d s  0.016 Z
Flow X
W1

 

W2
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2- Turbidity Currents
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Turbidity Currents
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Turbidity Currents
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Shared Water Resources
Presentation Diploma
of Sedimentation Pattern in Nasser Lake (High Aswan Dam Lake) May 2015

Turbidity Currents In Lake Nasser

Coordinates of HAD
23 58 13.32 N
32 52 35.30 E
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DELTA FORMATION
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Alluvium and Alluvial fans: On land in arid regions, mountains can channel
rain water into intermittent streams which may empty onto a valley floor. Flow
tends to be flashy and intermittent, at times resembling mudflows more than
streams. These streams carry much sediment but lose competence as soon
as they are not confined by mountains
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Components of a fluvial system


Drainage basin: The region drained by a river and its
tributaries. The tributaries form a collection system that
transfers sediment and water to higher order streams.
Sediment and river discharge are a function of the size,
relief, tectonics, climate and geology of the drainage basin.
Alluvial valley: The principle region of sediment transport
through the drainage basin. Damming and diversion of
discharge within the alluvial valley is greatly altering the
sediment and water discharge to the delta.
Delta: The region of sediment dispersal and
sedimentation. Shape of the delta plain is governed by the
energy of the receiving basin and fluvial output.
Receiving basin: Base level for the fluvial system. Slope,
orientation, and hydrodynamics of the receiving basin all
influence delta morphology
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Delta
•A subaqueous and subaerial accumulation of river-derived sediments at the mouth of a river.
•The receiving basin is the base level for the fluvial system and may be an ocean, sea or lake.
•Once base level is reached deposition results from the loss of momentum and the ability of the
river to carry sediment.
•Deltas form wherever sediment at a river mouth is being supply faster than it can be removed
by marine processes.
•Most deltas have a wide range of morphologies and features that reflect the environment of the
receiving basin.
•Numerous variables, such as the hydrographic regime of the receiving basin, influence delta
formation As a result delta morphology is extremely variable.

Importance of deltas
•Deltas have historically been fertile regions for agriculture, and harbor productive estuaries for
fishing.
•More recently deltas have been exploited for oil , gas, and fresh water.
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Deltas
• Flow velocity decreases as water flows
into lakes or oceans
– deposition occurs and may lead to
the origin of a delta, which can
prograde as sediment is continually
supplied by the stream
– topset, foreset, and bottomset beds
are typical
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Deltas

When a stream enters a standing


body of water such as a lake or
ocean, again there is a sudden
decrease in velocity and the stream
deposits its sediment in a deposit
called a delta.

Deltas build outward from the


coastline, but will only survive if the
ocean currents are not strong
enough to remove the sediment.
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CHANNEL PATTERN
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Channel Types

There are three basic types of channels: straight, meandering


and braided.
Portions of a stream may be straight, some meandering and
others braided.

Describing a channel as a straight channel seems pretty


obvious, though rarely is a channel perfectly straight in nature.

A meandering channel is one that takes twists and turns over


its length.

Geoscientists use the sinuosity ratio to determine whether a


channel is straight or meandering.

The sinuosity ratio is the distance between two points on the


stream measured along the channel divided by the straight line
distance between the two points. If the sinuosity ratio is 1.5 or
greater the channel is considered to be a meandering one.
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Straight channels

•Straight stream channels are rare.


•Where they do occur, the channel is
usually controlled by a linear zone of
weakness in the underlying rock.
•Even in straight channel segments water flows in a sinuous fashion,
with the deepest part of the channel changing from near one bank to
near the other.
•Velocity is highest in the zone overlying the deepest part of the stream.
•In these areas, sediment is transported readily resulting in pools.
Where the velocity of the stream is low, sediment is deposited to form
bars.
•The bank closest to the zone of highest velocity is usually eroded and
results in a cutbank.
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Meandering channels

Because of the velocity structure of a


stream, and especially in streams
flowing over low gradients with easily
eroded banks, straight channels will
eventually erode into meandering
channels.

Erosion will take place on the outer


parts of the meander bends where
the velocity of the stream is highest.
Sediment deposition will occur along
the inner meander bends where the
velocity is low. Such deposition of
sediment results in exposed bars.
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Meandering channels
Because meandering streams
are continually eroding on the
outer meander bends and
depositing sediment along the
inner meander bends,
meandering stream channels
tend to migrate back and forth
across their flood plain.
If erosion on the outside
meander bends continues to take
place, eventually a meander
bend can become cut off from
the rest of the stream. When this
occurs, the cutoff meander bend,
because it is still a depression,
will collect water and form a type
of lake called an oxbow lake.
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Braided channels

•In streams having highly variable discharge and easily


eroded banks, sediment gets deposited to form bars
and islands that are exposed during periods of low
discharge.
•In such a stream the water flows in a braided pattern
around the islands and bars, dividing and reuniting as it
flows downstream. Such a channel is termed a braided
channel.
•During periods of high discharge, the entire stream
channel may contain water and the islands are covered
to become submerged bars.
•During such high discharge, some of the islands could
erode, but the sediment would be re-deposited as the
discharge decreases, forming new islands or
submerged bars. Islands may become resistant to
erosion if they become inhabited by vegetation,
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Inglis (1949)
Wave length L = CL. (Qmax)0.5
CL = Cosntant = 33-76 SI units

Qmax = max. probable discharge (of


100 year)

Meander Belt Width B = Cw. (Qmax)0.5

Leopold and Wolmann (1957)


w = channel width
Wave length L = (7-11).w
Radius of Curvature R = (2-3).w
Meander Belt Width B = (5-10).w
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Canal Intake
When flow approaches a diversion, we
have a condition similar to a bend

The bottom flow is diverted towards the


intake more than the surface flow.

Most of the bottom sediment is diverted


with the bottom flow to the intake
causing sedimentation and maybe
Bottom Sill
blocking the intake

Remedies:
Construct a sill at the entrance to
prevent the sediment from entering the
intake and with periodical cleaning.
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Coastal Sediment Transport


The stability of the coastal shoreline depends on the balance between the
volume sediment available at that section and the net cross shore and long
shore sediment transport

The shoreline maybe eroding (scour) or accreting (deposition) or remaining in


equilibrium. If equilibrium does not exist, at least Dynamic Equilibrium exists
where the shoreline is responding continuously to variable winds, waves and
currents.

Waves and Prevailing


Wind
Offshore currents and transport

Onshore currents and transport


Long Shore Current and Transport

Shoreline
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Examples of Jetties and Breakwaters


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Littoral Process

Sources of Littoral Material

• Material moving into the area from adjacent areas


• Contribution of sediment by rivers and streams
• Contribution of through erosion from sand dunes, cliffs and nourishments

Sink of Littoral material

• Movement of the sediment material out of the area


• Loss of sediment to submarine Canyons, by wind, inlets, deposits
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Physiographic Unit
It is the unit of the shoreline which shall be studies. Usually the boundaries of
this unit consist of headland, man made sediment barrier, etc...

Modes of Littoral Transport


Beach drift (moving on the beach foreshore)
Suspended Load (due to turbulence waves in the surf zone)
Bed Load moving on the bottom of the sea (Sliding, rolling, Saltation)
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Beach profile terminology

Nearshore wave
processes terminology
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Nearshore Region

The littoral zone is the dynamic interface between the ocean and the land.
Bounded on one side by the landward limit of the beach and extending
seaward to just beyond the zone of wave breaking, it is the region where
wave energy dissipates over a distance of tens to hundreds of meters.

Beaches are molded into characteristic forms according to various governing


parameters, including rates of wave energy dissipation and momentum
transfer, and sediment permeability and fall velocity.

A dynamic balance is established between processes and morphology in


which the beach, waves, and currents interact.

Natural variability in littoral processes, such as in wave height, period, and


direction, or the rate that littoral material is supplied to a region, are
responsible for beach changes.
Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Nearshore Region
Modifications to the system such as changing wave conditions, introduction of
engineering structures, and altered quantity or type of sediment all
cause the dynamic balance to readjust.

Rapid and undesired beach changes have been caused by some coastal
engineering works.

Seaward of the dunes is the littoral zone, consisting of the backshore which is
rarely submerged; the foreshore, which extends from the limit of uprush of
waves at high tide to the backrush of waves at low tide; and the inshore,
where energy of spilling and plunging breakers is dissipated.

The offshore is separated from the inshore by the location of wave


breaking and is included in the littoral zone to the extent that significant
littoral processes occur. The backshore is a relatively flat area or consists of
flat areas separated by beach scarps. The berm crest separates the berm from
the more steeply sloping foreshore.
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Simple Harmonic Waves (Sinusoidal Waves)


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H = wave height
L = wave length
SWL = Still water level
d= water depth

H/L = wave stepness


d/L = relative depth
A = wave amplitude = H/2

T = wave period = L/C


C = Wave Celarity = L/T = phase speed

K = 2pi / L = wave number (rad/m)

 = 2pi / L = wave frequency (rad/sec)


Shared Water Resources Diploma May 2015

Wave processes.

In terms of wave processes, the littoral zone is divided into the offshore and
nearshore zones. Within the nearshore zone, waves become unstable and begin to
break in the breaker zone.

Broken waves propagate as bores in the surf zone. The limits of water oscillation on
the beach face define the swash zone.

Beach profiles. A sandy beach tends toward an equilibrium profile for swell waves.
This equilibrium profile, called a summer or swell profile, has been thesubject of much
field and laboratory investigation and occurs when the depth increases exponentially
with distance from shore. Under certain combinations of wave height, period, and
sand fall velocity, the profile develops a shore-parallel bar at the location of wave
breaking. A trough just shoreward of the bar or underthe plunge point of the breaker
is also common. If waves reform after initial breaking to break a second time, the
nearshore zone may contain multiple bartrough systems. This profile is called the
storm profile or winter profile. The size and location of the bar and trough are related
to wave height and period. As a longshore bar grows, its location shifts, as does the
wave break point. Material forming the bar is removed

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