Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
November-December 2018
THE
NEW YORK
TIMES
STYLE
MAGAZINE
THE BRIGHT
SIDE
Great spaces with
second acts, from a row
of 18th-century
Dublin townhouses to
a 19th-century former
factory on Lake Como
MARKET REPORT
Buck
The Trend
Surprisingly versatile for its
unconventional shape, the bucket
bag bucks the trend in sturdier and
roomier versions for fall.
By Debrina Aliyah
IF YOU WERE A Hollywood filmmaker in the 1920s, chances are you expanding and growing, my shop followed right behind them.”
would be getting the Italian shoemaker from the Hollywood Boot Drawing from this period of the shoemaker’s life, the exhibition
Shop to dress the feet of your stars. The Roaring Twenties would Italy in Hollywood captures a little-known yet fascinating moment
have marked Salvatore Ferragamo’s final but glorious years in the in history that ignited Italian influence in American culture.
United States before he went home to Italy for good in 1927. But The historical reconstruction of Ferragamo’s life represents a
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before the glitz and success of the renowned store on Hollywood broader phenomenon of Italian migration to California, the role of
Boulevard, Ferragamo had arrived in North America along with the Italian community within the context of the West Coast and the
thousands of southern Italian immigrants just as Italy had joined the resulting interchange in the world of art, crafts and entertainment
BOOK ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
first world war.
arts – areas where Ferragamo’s creativity was prevalent. From a
Alongside his brothers, he ran a custom-shoe repair shop in Santa
social commentary perspective, it examines the contradictory
Barbara, California which drew the attention of prominent film
perception of Italian-Americans, between a positive opinion of
directors of the time including D.W. Griffith, James Cruze, and
Italian history and tradition, and negative criticism of some of the
Raoul Walsh. It was Cecil B. DeMille who commissioned Ferragamo
to make the shoes for some of the most notable movies of the traits that characterized the stereotype of the Italian including
decade; The Ten Commandments and The King of Kings. His rising instinct, passion, and sentimentalism. A larger part of the exhibition
fame prompted the opening of the Hollywood Boot Shop and delves deep into Italy’s presence in filmmaking in California, from
cemented the influence of Italian leather craftsmanship in the cinematic styles to on-set work culture distinguished by the image
world of cinema. of certain immigrants, the likes of Ferragamo.
“I seem to glimpse a parallel between the film industry and my Italy in Hollywood is curated by Giuliana Muscio and Stefania
activity”, writes Ferragamo in his autobiography, “when the majors Ricci and currently runs until 10th March 2019 at the Museo
(players in Hollywood) overcame the early phase and began Salvatore Ferragamo in Palazzo Spini Feroni, Florence.
Ramon, Silence and Special
Shoes were also made for men and actor Rudolph Valentino were often seen in
the various styles including boots and dress shoes.
Bella Foxtrot
BOOK ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
CREATIONS COLLECTION
A New Icon of
Style and Grace
When Halima Aden walked down Max Mara’s runway in Milan last September, clad
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in a beige leather trench with polka dots complete with a matching head scarf in the
same print, the Arab press went into a frenzy.
By Debrina Aliyah
WITH THEIR SMARTPHONES OUT, the editors were live-sharing snapshots breaking barriers and giving a voice to the marginalised in a world that
of the newly minted model whose outfit did not look one bit as if it had to seems to be moving one step forward and two backwards on the issue of
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAX MARA
be appropriated to seem modest. In fact, the chicly put styled head-wrap tolerance. “Beauty isn’t a one size fits all. We need to celebrate everyone
had appeared on the runway before Halima Aden, ushering in a style and welcome those who are different than us. This year has had so much
narrative for Max Mara’s SS19 collection. Modesty is a subtle element, and negativity, it’s time to move away from the hate and learn to accept. I’m
a matter of class and taste in the modern fashion landscape. choosing love because a nation that doesn’t stand together will fall,” the
But it helps to have somebody like Aden at the forefront flying the flag model says. Born in a refugee camp in Kenya after her parents had fled
not only from a style viewpoint but also from a human perspective. Her Somalia, she moved to the United States at the age of six and flourished in
meteoric rise has as much to do with being a style icon as a symbol of her new life while maintaining her cultural identity.
As the first Muslim homecoming queen at her high school, the first woman to
wear a hijab in a Miss USA state pageant, and the first to grace magazine covers with
a head scarf, Aden’s message of diversity is loud and clear.
“I signed with one of the most influential modelling agencies in the world and still
wore my hijab as my crown. Don’t ever change yourself, change the game,” the model
announced when her contract with IMG Models was official. “I am so excited to join
the IMG Model family and spread the message that diversity is beauty.”
Her passion has led to another feather in the cap this year when she was
appointed as a UNICEF ambassador in recognition of her work in empowering
young people and her desire to give back to the community. She brings awareness to
programs that save and protect children’s lives and uses her platforms to advocate
for children’s rights. “I’ve seen UNICEF’s incredible, impactful work for children
first-hand. When I was young, UNICEF gave me an education, empowering me, my
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAX MARA
29
THE ARTIST’S LIFE
New Icons
The definitive name of American cool style launches a
classic capsule collection that goes back to his roots of
iconic pop culture and Americana heritage.
By Debrina Aliyah
IN RECENT SEASONS, Tommy Hilfiger the designer and the brand has “It’s a celebration of our iconic flag logo and a reinterpretation of
been on a trailblazing campaign in bringing back the vibrancy of pop some of our most classic styles from the archives with a modern
culture into its collections, both by much-hyped collaborations and twist,” the designer says.
staging of fashion shows in new cities. From New York, the hyper- Familiar wardrobe staples, including the Oxford shirt, parka and
staged TommyNow shows incorporating racing elements and puffer jacket, are given a contemporary makeover and presented in
technologies - a sport dear to the designer’s heart – has since made oversized silhouettes, pleated constructions, luxe fabrics, contrast
PHOTOS COURTESY OF TOMMY HILFIGER
pitstops in Los Angeles, London, Milan and this fall, in Shanghai. color-block stripes, and a warm navy, burgundy and gold color
A constant presence is the unmistakable aesthetic, referenced by palette. “The metallic gold puffer jacket and Arctic-inspired parka are
the colors of white, blue and red as Hilfiger’s continuous ode to wardrobe essentials that really stand out from the crowd with their
America and its icons that has served as his pillars of design since the bold colors and shapes,” the designer explains. A final touch of tribute,
launch of the brand. For Fall 2018’s capsule collection that is simply as if a gesture of homecoming, sees the brand’s signature American
named Icons, Hilfiger revisits well-loved classics that has defined the flag logo tinted in a new minimalist gold design.
brand’s embodiment of American pop culture across the decades. Working on the capsule, Hilfiger reflects that Martin Luther King
25
NEW ICONS
PEOPLE QATAR
27
WANDERLUST
Seven Wonders
The Aeolian archipelago off the Sicilian coast
is notoriously difficult to reach, but the seven
islands charm those who do.
By Debrina Aliyah
www.therasiaresort.it
WANDERLUST
PLACES QATAR
Raya Hotel A rustic retreat on the seafood so fresh that they are best
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island of Panarea with natural forming served raw, which is the signature
pools irrigated by hyperthermal and antipasti dish on the menu. It is best to
hypotonic waters of volcanic origins. Its have a chat with the staff and let them CLOCKWISE FROM
holistic wellness approach extends to tell you the catch of the day and how TOP : Lipari is one
the signature restaurant where only grandma in the kitchen wants to cook it. of the busier
islands among the
organic local produce is used. Alternatively, give the one item that has seven,Traditional
www.hotelraya.it been on the menu since the restaurant Sicilian sweets for
opened decades ago a try, the Roast breakfast.
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WANDERLUST
PLACES QATAR
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Hiking Dormant craters, cones and ranges hike, take a gradual climb up Fossa di and black sandy beaches. Immerse in the
PHOTO COURTESY OF TWENTY30FORTY
make the perfect setting for hikers of all Vulcano that will take you about two to three mud baths for its purifying properties but
levels to admire the views and sceneries hours. www.ilvulcanoapiedi.it be sure to take precautions against the
across all the islands. For sweeping views of sulphur stink afterward. Fanghi di
Malvesian vineyards and the surrounding Mud Baths Apart from Stromboli, Vulcano, Via Riccardo Conti 20.
seascape, climb Salina’s highest peak, Vulcano is the only other island with active
Fossa delle Felci, that takes you volcanic activity though on a more mellow
mountainside through green forestry right scale. The constantly smouldering
up to the peak. For a more amateur- friendly volcano gives rise to bubbling fumaroles