THE

DU CHESS GIGI HADID

OF SUSSEX “There is no
How Meghan handbook for being
dressed her way in the spotlight”
into our hearts

S AVING
FAC E
Protect your
skin from
the dry spell

The Handmaid’s
Tale star
Y VO NNE
STRAHOVSKI

UNDER
C OV ER
The winter
coat edit

break the rules

T H E N E W S E A S O N S TA R T S H E R E
esteelauder.com.au
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LIFE
N E E DS
A DV E N T U R E
 CONTENTS

July 2018
32 EDITOR’S LETTER
34 CONTRIBUTORS
36 VOGUE VAULT
38 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU
40 VOGUE VIDEO

Gigi Hadid wears a

Viewpoint
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC
metallic silver overdress,
44
sleeveless tweed dress, THE TIME IS MEOW
gloves, balaclava, worn as a
scarf, and quilt. Make up Leopard has snuck back in its fiercest version yet:
from Maybelline, starting a do-anything chameleonic power print.
with Fit Me Matte + Poreless
Foundation in Ivory; on 52
cheeks, Fit Me Blush in Nude;
on eyes, Total Temptation FASHION SHOW
Eyeshadow & Highlight Australian actress Nathalie Kelley lived the
Palette and Total Temptation
mascara in Blackest Black; fashion dream on the Dynasty reboot.
on lips, SuperStay Matte
Ink lipstick in Seductress. 56
Snake charmer; Tight knit.
Stylist: Christine Centenera
Photographer: 58
Giampaolo Sgura
Hair: Peter Gray FUR FLIES
Make-up: Gucci Westman
Faux fur has come leaps and bounds from
its unconvincing beginnings.

52 56 62
ALL EYES ON HER
Australian style authority Yasmin Sewell has
long been one of fashion’s most watched.

66

V O L L X N O 7 W H O L E N O 6 4 9 * R E CO M M E N D E D P R I C E
PUT A RIBBON ON IT
Bows will tie up – and finish off – every look.

68
BEYOND MEASURE
GEORGINA EGAN JAKE TERREY

The story of Italian fashion house MaxMara and

the ancient town it still calls home.

76
WORKING THE LAND
Meet landscape artist Belynda Henry.

24 J U LY 2 01 8
 CONTENTS

July 2018
Vogue Codes Arrestingly simple as herself, she telegraphs her
own brand of natural warmth and quiet power.
81
STREETS AHEAD 136
88 Lucinda Hartley’s Neighbourlytics uses big data
to inform urban development decisions.
YOUTH
Packing new adventures for winter escapism,
blur the rules of day and night, a cocktail dress
82
on a bike, an oversized knit with a bikini: easy,
HEART OF THE MATTER
don’t overthink it. Pack for a love story.
Social entrepreneur Leila Janah on empowering
workers in developing countries and providing
a healthy wage for women in Africa.
Features
154
Beauty THE MEGHAN MARKLE EFFECT
The Meghan Markle fairytale involves a humble
88
background, a handsome prince and a wardrobe
COLD FRONT
so relatable it could add £1 billion to the British
Give winter skin concerns like irritation, dryness,
(and Commonwealth) fashion economies.
redness and flare-ups the cold shoulder.
158
94
BITE THE BULLET À LA MODE

136 There’s a lipstick shade to match any mood.

96
In our fast world, the trend cycle is also in high
gear, with influencers driving what’s in vogue and
ephemeral trends dying before a season is even over.
SHAKE IT UP
160
The new breed of disruptive, innovative and
inclusive brands stepping outside the beauty box.
BLESSED
Playing a cruel barren wife on The Handmaid’s
99
Tale hasn’t been easy for Yvonne Strahovski. The
KARL AND I
newly pregnant star reflects on her “harrowing”
ModelCo founder Shelley Sullivan on her
role and bringing her own baby into the world.
make-up collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld.

102
169 VOGUE SOIRÉE
A BEAUTIFUL MIND
171 HOROSCOPES
PULMANNS JAKE TERREY BEN WELLER

Brain hacking is the latest self-improvement goal.

176 LAST WORD
Fashion
108 SUBSCRIBE TO VOGUE
SUPER TU RN TO PAG E 10 4 TO SU B SCRIB E

160 Gigi Hadid strips back and then layers it on,

enveloped in exaggerated knits and coats.
O R REN EW AN D RECEIVE A BO N US
G IF T FRO M GARBO & KELLY.

26 J U LY 2 01 8
 Edwina McCann
Editor-in-Chief editor@vogue.com.au

D eput y E d it or a nd Fe at u re s D i re c t or S OPH I E T E DM A NS ON
features@vogue.com.au

Fa sh ion D i re c t or C H R I ST I N E C E N T E N E R A

Cre at i ve D i re c t or at L a r ge A L I S ON V E N E S S

ART art@vogue.com.au
A r t D i re c t or M A N DY A L E X
S en ior D e sig ner DIJA N A M A DDI S ON Ju n ior D e sig ner A RQU E T T E C O OK E

FASHION fashion@vogue.com.au
S en ior Fa sh ion E d it or K AT E DA RV I L L
Fa sh ion E d it or a nd Ma rket D i re c t or PH I L I PPA MORON E Y
Ju n ior Fa sh ion E d it or PE T TA C H UA   Ma rket E d it or K A I L A M AT T H E WS
Fa sh ion A s si s t a nt R E BE C CA B ON AV I A

BOOK INGS bookings@vogue.com.au

Phot og ra phy a nd C a s t i ng D i re c t or R I K K I K E E N E   B o ok i ng s E d it or DA N ICA O S L A N D

FASHION FEATURES vogue@vogue.com.au

Fa sh ion Fe at u re s a nd C ont ent St rat e g y D i re c t or Z A R A WONG
S en ior Fa sh ion Fe at u re s E d it or A L IC E BI R R E L L

BEAUTY AND HEA LTH beauty@vogue.com.au

S en ior B e aut y a nd He a lt h E d it or R E M Y R I PP ON
He a lt h E d it or at L a r ge JODY S C O T T   B e aut y S p e cia l P roje c t s R IC K Y A L L E N

COPY copy@vogue.com.au
Travel E d it or a nd C opy E d it or M A R K S A R I BA N
D eput y C opy E d it or a nd L i fe s t y le Wr it er C US H L A C H AU H A N

Su s t a i n a bi l it y E d it or at L a r ge C L A R E PR E S S

A r t s Wr it er JA N E A L BE R T

E d it or ia l C o ord i n at or R E BE C CA S H A L A L A

Ma n a g i ng E d it or L OU I S E BRYA N T

DIGITA L vogue@vogue.com.au
D ig it a l E d it or ia l D i re c t or J U L I A F R A N K
D ig it a l E d it or L I L I T H H A R DI E LU PICA   A s s o ciat e D ig it a l E d it or DA N I E L L E G AY   A s si s t a nt D ig it a l E d it or F R A NC E S CA WA L L AC E

CONTRIBUTORS
A L IC E CAVA N AGH ( Pa r i s)   V IC T OR I A C OL L I S ON (S p e cia l P roje c t s E d it or)   PI PPA HOLT ( L ondon)   N ATA S H A I NC H L E Y ( Fa sh ion)

EDITORIA L ADMINISTR ATION AND RIGHTS

D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s Ma n a ger T RU DY BI E R N AT D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s C o ord i n at or J E S S ICA R IC H MON D

Nat ion a l S a le s a nd St rat e g y D i re c t or, St y le N IC OL E WAU DBY (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 61 .

He ad of Bra nd St rat e g y, St y le M E R RY N DH A M I (02) 92 8 8 10 9 0. He ad of D ig it a l C om mercia l St rat e g y, St y le A M A N DA S PAC K M A N (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 5 8 .  
NS W Group S a le s Ma n a ger C H E Y N E H A L L (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 67.
NS W Key Ac c ou nt Ma n a ger s K AT E C OR BE T T (02) 8 0 4 5 47 3 7. CAT H E R I N E PAT R IC K (02) 8 0 4 5 4 613 .   
D ig it a l Bra nd Ma n a ger K R I ST I N A K A R A S S OU L I S (02) 92 8 8 174 3 . Br a nd St r at eg y Ma n a ger T E S S A DI XON (02) 8 0 4 5 474 4 . 
He ad of St rat e g ic Pa r t ner sh ip s H A N N A H DAV I D -W R IGH T (02) 8 0 4 5 49 8 6 . NS W C a mpa ig n I mplement at ion Ma n a ger K AT E DW Y E R (02) 92 8 8 10 0 9.
NS W Ac c ou nt E xe c ut i ve s , St y le E L I Z A C ON NOR (02) 92 8 8 132 4 . G A R I N E H T ORO S S I A N (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 5 3 . 
Vic t or ia S a le s D i re c t or, St y le K A R E N C L E M E N T S (0 3) 92 92 32 02 . Vic t or ia He ad of S a le s E L I S E DE S A N T O (0 3) 92 92 162 1 . Vic t or ia Group B u si ne s s Ma n a ger N A DI N E DE N I S ON (0 3) 92 92 32 2 4 .
Vic t or ia He ad of D i re c t S a le s & Pa r t ner sh ip s JO C ONSTA BL E (0 3) 92 92 32 0 3 . Vic t or ia C a mpa ig n I mplement at ion Ma n a ger R E BE C CA RODE L L (0 3) 92 92 195 1 .
Q ue en sla nd C om mercia l D i re c t or, L i fe s t y le RO S E W E GN E R (0 7) 3 6 6 6 69 0 3 . Vic t or ia Ac c ou nt E xe c ut i ve S A R A H-JA N E BAC ON (0 3) 92 92 32 0 8 .
C la s si f ie d Ad ver t i si ng R E BE C CA W H I T E 13 0 0 13 9 3 0 5 . A sia : K I M K E NC H I NGT ON , Me d iawork s A sia (8 52) 2 8 82 1 10 6 .

Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve D i re c t or R IC H A R D M C AU L I F F E Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve Ma n a ger E VA C HOW N 

Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve P ro duc er s J E N N Y H AY E S S A R A H M U RY
Cre at i ve S er v ic e s S en ior A r t D i re c t or s A M A N DA A N DE R S ON CA RY N I S E M A N N 
Ad ver t i si ng C opy E d it or s A N N E T T E FA R NS WOR T H BRO OK E L E W I S ROB BA DM A N 

P ro duc t ion Ma n a ger M IC H E L L E O ’ BR I E N Ad ver t i si ng P ro duc t ion C o ord i n at or ROBY N N E BE AVA N

G enera l Ma n a ger, R et a i l S a le s a nd Ci rc u lat ion BR E T T W I L L I S Su b s cr ipt ion s Ac q u i sit ion Ma n a ger GR A N T DU R I E Su b s cr ipt ion s R et ent ion Ma n a ger C RYSTA L E W I NS

G enera l Ma n a ger, D ig it a l ST UA R T FAG G

He ad of P ro duc t D e sig n A L E X FAW DR AY D ig it a l D e sig ner Y E A R A C H A H A M

Ma rket i ng D i re c t or DI A N A K AY D ig it a l Ma rket i ng Ma n a ger S H A N NON W Y L I E Bra nd Ma n a ger R AC H E L C H R I ST I A N

Event s Ma rket i ng Ma n a ger N ATA L I E H E A DL A N D Event s Ma n a ger GE N E V I E V E M C CA S K I L L Ma rket i ng C o ord i n at or S H E L BY A L L E N

D i re c t or of C om mu n ic at ion s S H A RY N W H I T T E N
G enera l Ma n a ger, Net work S a le s , NS W PAU L BL AC K BU R N
Publisher, News Prestige Network NICHOLAS GR AY

VO GU E AUST R A L I A m a ga z i ne i s pu bl i she d by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d (AC N 0 8 8 92 3 9 0 6). I S S N 0 0 4 2 - 8 019. New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d i s a w hol l y ow ne d s u b sid ia r y
of New s L i m it e d (AC N 0 0 7 8 7 1 178). C opy r ig ht 2 018 by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d . A l l r ig ht s re s er ve d . 2 Holt St re et , Su r r y H i l l s , NS W 2 010. Tel : (02) 92 8 8 3 0 0 0.
Po s t a l add re s s: Vog ue A u s t ra l ia , New sL i feMe d ia , L evel 1 , L o cke d B a g 5 0 3 0, A lex a nd r ia , NS W 2 015 . E m a i l : e d it vog ue au s t @ vog ue .c om . au .
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28 J U LY 2 01 8
 VOGUE
Editor’s letter
This special limited-edition Gigi Hadid cover is only available online. Go to Vogue.com.au.
G
iven the modelling and celebrity power force
she has become, it is funny to think that when
we published Gigi Hadid’s first Vogue Australia
cover in June 2015, we felt the need to describe
her as a ‘social supermodel’. She is a serious
success and wears the layers of the season’s exaggerated knits
and coats in the most appealing way. If you are a huge Gigi fan,
we have also printed a limited-edition special one-off cover
(above), available for purchase only online and sure to become
a collector’s item. Go to Vogue.com.au for details.
This month, we also feature the beautiful Australian actress
Yvonne Strahovski, who has been captivating audiences as
the captivating Mrs Waterford in The Handmaid’s Tale. In May,
Yvonne was in Melbourne to shoot Angel of Mine, directed by
Strangerland’s Kim Farrant, when she thrilled us with the news
she is pregnant (she later announced it on Instagram, too).
She will return to Canada to shoot season three of The
Handmaid’s Tale, which will commence after the baby is born.
32
Gigi.
I am not sure how so many of us missed the fact that the
beautiful Mrs Waterford with her immaculate US accent was in
fact a Sydney-born native who honed her craft at the University
of Western Sydney, but at Vogue, we have certainly embraced
and claimed her now, and welcome her to our pages while
wishing her our best for the impending birth of her first
child and motherhood to follow.
Finally, I congratulate another powerhouse and favourite of
Vogue’s, ModelCo founder Shelley Sullivan (see page 99), for
wowing the world with the launch of her collaboration with
Karl Lagerfeld. She founded her company at just 21 and is
clearly still going from strength to strength – what an inspiration.
G I A M PA O LO S G U R A
EDWINA MCCANN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
J U LY 2 01 8
VOGUE
Contributors
GIAMPAOLO
SGURA
As one of the most photographed
women in the world, it comes
as no surprise that Gigi Hadid
is a complete pro in front the
camera. For our cover shoot,
photographer Giampaolo Sgura
says the eldest Hadid sister
was a dream to work with.
“Gigi defied my expectations …
obviously I knew she was a top
girl at the top of her game, and
I was also so impressed with how
professional and easy she was,”
he says of working with her.
“We photographed her in the
most natural way to highlight her
real beauty. No make-up, no hair,
no fancy lighting … just Gigi the
woman and her personality.”
34
LUCA CANTIELLO &
MARIANNA MILANA
Assisting the Vogue team on set
when they travelled to MaxMara’s
headquarters in Reggio Emilia,
Italy for ‘Beyond measure’,
local interns Luca Cantiello and
Marianna Milana had the time of
their lives with the crew. “People
looked at us like we were aliens
when we were shooting in the
centre of the city,” Cantiello
recalls. “The best part about
working with Petta [Chua] and
Alice [Birrell] was learning how
to run a fashion shoot and the
whole organisation behind
it,”adds Milana.
SHANE PAISH
Make-up artist Shane Paish, who
has worked with the likes of
Natalie Portman, Charlize Theron
and Jessica Alba, collaborated
on our beauty shoot ‘Cold front’.
Taking cues from nature and
drawing on the concept of water
for the shoot, Paish made sure
the model looked the part,
and describes the final look as
RUBY CAMPBELL sensual and luxe. “The best part
was shooting an outdoor beauty
For model Ruby Campbell, being
story using natural light and not
on set with Vogue for the story
being in a studio,” he says.
‘Tight knit’ was just another
regular work day, but she also
admits that her job sometimes
feels too good to be true.
Describing the life of a model as
an “opportunity to experience
life in a extraordinary way”, the
down-to-earth Sydneysider tells
us that her favourite part about
her day with the Vogue team
TO N Y D U R A N J A K E T E R R E Y DA N I E L YO U N G W H I T F O R D E
was the styling.
J U LY 2 0 1 8
 VO G U E VAU LT

Boom, baby Condé Nast Internationa l

Cha irma n a nd Chief Executive: Jonatha n Newhouse
President: Wolfga ng Blau
Gigi Hadid’s first Vogue Australia shoot was a hint at what was coming.
The Condé Nast Internationa l Group of Bra nds
includes:
UK
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Ita ly
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Bon Appétit, Epicu rious, Wi red, W, Golf Digest,

G
igi Hadid was only just starting to catch the eye of the international fashion scene Golf World, Teen Vog ue, A rs Tech n ica , T he Scene,
when she covered our June 2015 issue. Not yet a household name, and definitely not Pitch fork , Backcha n nel

the force of nature she is at present, the then 20-year-old model was on her way to big
things. Fast-forward three years and Hadid is perhaps the biggest name in the fashion world.
But even in 2015, the model wasn’t immune to the allure of Instagram fame. Speaking to Vogue’s
Zara Wong (who also interviewed her for this issue’s cover), Hadid was aware of her social pull,
revealing that being a role model was one of her top priorities: “I feel like being true to the
people who follow you is being a good role model, because they are following you for a reason,
and I think that’s what you should stick to.” Now, with more than 40 million followers on
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tel 1300 650 666.

Instagram, Hadid is back for another round, definitely all grown up this time.

36 J U LY 2 0 1 8 3 6
 2. ST YLE FI LE

Revisit our cover

1.
girl Gigi Hadid’s
most incredible red
carpet moments.
CO UTU R E COVER AG E

Every out-of-
this-world look
from every
designer showing
during the haute
couture season.

10.

TH I N K STR EE T

The street
style moments
that stole the
show during
couture week.
1. Chanel haute couture
s/s ’18. 2. Backstage at
Isabel Marant a/w ’18/’19.
3. Gigi Hadid in 2016.
4. On the streets of Paris.
5. On the streets of New

J A M E S CO C H R A N E G E O R G I N A E G A N G E T T Y I M A G E S I N D I G I TA L E D WA R D U R R U T I A
York. 6. Giorgio Armani Sì
8. Passione EDP, 30ml for $95.
7. Alice McCall dress, $360.
8. Estée Lauder Pure
Color Envy Defining Eye
Shadow in Vain Violet, $45.

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
9. Giambattista Valli haute
couture s/s ’18. 10. Christian
Dior haute couture s/s ’18.

down the runway, visit Vogue.com.au for your complete guide to couture week.
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38 J U LY 2 01 8
DIAMOND COLLECTION
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during every season of the year. Visit our digital
showroom to discover our extensive collection
of handcrafted diamond jewellery.

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40 J U LY 2 0 1 8
FASHION’S BIGGEST NIGHT IS BACK!
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VOGUE V IEW POINT
 ANIMAL
MAGNETISM

This time it’s not all about

looking back with nostalgia,
and instead pushing on in
supersized accessories
that pump up otherwise
minimalist silhouettes.
Hansen & Gretel dress, $349.
Saint Laurent shoes, $2,445.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

SKIN DEEP

Early adopters hear this:

stockinged feet in second-
skin spots will set you apart,
and that’s exactly what
to strive for this season.
N CO L E B E N T L E Y

MaxMara coat, $3,070.

Leg Avenue tights, $25.
Giuseppe Zanotti shoes,
$1,295, from Miss Louise.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 4 7
VOGUE V IEW POINT

URBAN JUNGLE

A touch of street mingled

with the dynamic glamour
of spots is an unlikely and
explosive combination, plus
makes zero apologies.
Versace dress, $2,580, hat,
P.O.A., leggings, $780,
and shoes, P.O.A.

WILD CHILD

Leopard was present in

moments that have made
rock’n’roll history. Nod to
this by layering it under
a velvet blazer, like Saint
Laurent’s winning version,
and head out into the night.
Saint Laurent jacket, $4,870,
shirt, $6,990, pants, $1,670,
and belt, P.O.A.

50
 I
am moving into this Cristal Carrington era of my life, definitely!”
proclaims Nathalie Kelley, referring to the character she played on
the revamped Dynasty television series. She’s dressed for Vogue in a
head-to-toe Versace look of jacket, skirt, blouse and leggings and a red
Gucci pantsuit (her favourite look), an outfit that has the exuberance of
the original Dynasty of the 1980s, but with the irreverence of the new
series. Because, yes, on the show, there’s Cristal’s nemesis Fallon
(Elizabeth Gillies) wearing Alexander McQueen and a lot of Gucci, or
Kelley herself wearing buzzy brands like Galvan, Annie Costello
Brown, Johanna Ortiz, Attico and Magda Butrym.
“Being Cristal Carrington, I’ve got to be exposed to so much more
fashion than Nathalie Kelley would have,” says Kelley over a
peppermint tea. “I mean, you can go into stores and touch all the
beautiful Tom Ford, but it’s another thing to be in fittings with your
favourite designers.” A supporter of ethical fashion, Kelley is well
researched on sustainable practices. The bridesmaids at her recent
wedding to bar owner Jordan Burrows wore Awaveawake’s handmade
and dyed silks, and cut-offs from the dresses were used to make
matching handheld fans. “And as Cristal, I was getting into the
craftsmanship of beautiful clothes,” she says. “There have been pieces
custom-made for us on the show, so there’s an artistry in it, too.”
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
H A R : P E T E L E N N O N M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
The Lima-born, Sydney-raised Kelley moved to Los Angeles soon
after finishing high school at North Sydney Girls High, forgoing offers
to study law and social science to become an actress. “To be honest,
I moved because it wasn’t a good climate for me as an ethnic woman,”
she explains. “I’m Latin, and the jobs [for me] were a half-Asian girl on
a soap. As a brown girl in a country like this, I had to leave.” But,
initially, it didn’t get any better for Kelley. “If you had told me there
would be so many years of rejection and heartbreak, I may have thought
twice about it,” she says.
One of her first roles was in major film franchise The Fast and the
Furious (2006’s Tokyo Drift), which momentarily disoriented Kelley.
“I had given up what would’ve been a more academic career to go and
make a movie about race cars,” she says. “I felt a real lack of purpose
and direction, so there was a lot of soul-searching, and then starting my
career from scratch and being really honest with casting directors.”
Living away from Australia for more than 13 years, Kelley relies on
her friend Shannon Thomas, owner of Sydney boutique Désordre, to be
her guide to Australian fashion. Thomas introduced her to Dion Lee
and Ellery, and Kelley subsequently encouraged Dynasty’s costume
designer, Meredith Markworth-Pollack, to include more Australian
designers on the show, with a white Ellery dress with waterfall ¤
“If you had
told me there
would be so
many years of
rejection and
heartbreak,
I may have
thought twice
about it”
J U LY 2 0 1 8 5 3
VOGUE V IEW POINT

POWER SURGE

Manning Cartell jacket,

$699, and pants, $449.

Fendi bag,
$4,350, and
top, $1,650.

ruffle sleeves making the cut. “That was one of the outfits that we had the biggest
response to,” says Kelley. There were strict guidelines to what Cristal Carrington
could and couldn’t wear. “Cristal follows her heart, so she’s feminine and likes
cashmere and light pinks and muted tones, whereas Fallon is sassy and bossy, so
she’s in sharp cuts, red and black,” she says. “But we have mutual appreciation for
each other’s closets, and one of the fun parts of the show is that you rock up to a
scene and there’s a two-minute mutual admiration – we totally girl-out.”
Kelley returns to Australia each year to visit family, and on her visit last December
met her now husband at the bar he owned. They planned their wedding in six weeks,
marrying in April. “I didn’t think a wedding would happen for me in the first place,
so when I had the feeling that I could potentially spend my life with this person, we
were like: ‘We’ve gotta act on this right now!’”
Her home in Atlanta, where she was based while filming Dynasty, was large enough
to allow her to enjoy her pastimes – fermenting food, dyeing her own fabrics and
gardening. “I do things that really feed my soul, creativity and intelligence,” she says.
For Kelley, the wardrobe on this photo shoot was a departure for her style-wise. Its
boldness though, is something she exhibited on her own wedding day, when she
changed out of her wedding gown into a George Keburia puff-sleeved top and a
polka dot mini. “I thought I looked so great on the night dancing in it, but I’m going Cooper jacket,
$279, and
to look back in 10 years and be like: ‘What did I do on my wedding day?’ It’s definitely pants, $199.
not timeless, but it was fun.”
As we stand up to leave the cafe, she shows off her lace-up boots with heavy treads,
matched with her outfit of caramel tones and a cosy jacket. “How Cristal are these
boots?” she jokes, with a kick of her heels and a wave. ■

54
 GEORGINA EGAN JAKE TERREY
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

J U LY 2 0 1 8 5 5
VOGUE V IEW POINT

NEED IT NOW

ART DIREC TION D IJANA MAD D I SO N ST YLING K AI L A MAT TH E WS

PHOTOG R APH G EO RG I NA EGAN

WORDS: ZAR A WONG AL CE B RRELL

D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U / W T B

Bulgari Serpenti
Forever bag in Bondi
Blue Python, P.O.A.
The limited edition
bag marks the
reopening of the
Bulgari Sydney
flagship store.

56 J U LY 2 01 8
 Bachelor of Design
September 2018 Intake

Apply now
Interior Design
Creative Direction & Styling
Fashion Design

Sydney | Melbourne

www.whitehouse-design.edu.au
Fashion Design by Bachelor of Design student
Demi Galloway | TEQSA Provider Number
12065 | CRICOS Provider Code 02863C
VOGUE V IEW POINT

TREND

Fur flies
There’s no such thing as a faux pas
with faux fur, which has come leaps
and bounds from its unconvincing
beginnings, writes Alice Birrell.

W
hen Calvin Klein sent an acid-
yellow faux-fur coat, wrapped in
transparent vinyl, down the
runway as part of its autumn/winter ’17/’18
collection, there was a certain amount of Raf
Simons wit (oh, how Americans love to wrap
everyday things in plastic!), but there was
something else at play. More than just a show
centrepiece, it showcased fake fur in a new
way. The quality, Raf Simon’s right-hand-man
Pieter Mulier explained, was of utmost
importance, with the vinyl handstitched onto
the lush pile beneath. “It’s couture,” he told
the New York Times of the care given to wrap
and protect the entirely acrylic fur beneath.
Are we to make of it, then, that faux fur has
become precious, prized in the way real fur
once was? When blue-chip names like Gucci,
who gave up the real thing late last year, as
did Michael Kors alongside Jimmy Choo in
2017 and Versace earlier this year, join the
ranks of Calvin Klein, who jettisoned animal
fur way back in 1994, it sends a clear message:
this time, let’s ditch it for, well, real.
“I think there has been an incredible
cultural shift, which is largely due to the
changing values of the millennial customer,”
observes Kym Canter, of New York-based
faux-fur label House of Fluff, who established
her brand last year after working at J. Mendel
and thought she could emulate the real fur
she’d been working with in a more ethical
way. “In the 70s, I watched the excitement of
my mother when she got a mink coat. I grew
Left: Brionica wears an
up thinking real fur was a luxury and the Express faux fur coat.
ultimate status symbol, which is not the case Isabel Marant pants. Coco
today for young women. They see real fur as and Breezy glasses. Adidas
Originals sneakers.
something … that does not match their ethics.” Centre: Simone wears a
Now, it’s less about politics – let Pamela Just Cavalli faux fur coat.
Tory Sport pants. Fila hat.
Anderson sending Melania Trump a faux Right: Tandi wears a
coat, who then gladly wore it, be a gauge – Carven faux fur coat.
than echoing the shift in social attitudes and Emilio Pucci pants.
accepting a norm that was previously

58
 sidelined at the expense of sound supply chains. And while big fashion houses are FLUFF PIECE
catching up in this area, smaller labels have been setting the pace. “In the past,
customers didn’t know much,” says Gilat Shani, co-founder of Australian fake-fur
label Unreal Fur, which offers outerwear in bright hues as well as those that emulate
nature like mink, rabbit and raccoon in blonde, ink and slate. “I wanted to modernise
the use of fur in fashion, and the reality is that it practically isn’t needed anymore.
Technology has taken faux-fur innovation to a higher level.”
Hannah Weiland, of London-based label Shrimps, knows this, and was a leader
establishing her faux-fur label in 2013. She has found her local market, the UK, was
an early adopter, and many of her customers treat it with the kind of care they would
animal fur. “It feels just as luxurious,” she says. With a diploma in surface textile
design from the London College of Fashion, she focuses every year on innovating
with her suppliers to improve the quality of the pile and its feel. “Each season, the
fur gets softer and softer,” she explains of her exuberantly colourful pieces that are I AM GIA
jacket, $300.
sometimes swirled like boysenberry ice-cream or a blend like a traditional leopard
melded with an artful illustration of a face. “There are so many different techniques
that you can do to affect the texture and shape of the fur, so it’s always exciting to
start a new season with new ideas and possibilities.”
Shani agrees. “Investment in research and development has increased,” she says,
“from the production of the yarn to the way it’s treated, knitted and produced.” Put
simply, the quality on the runway is now up to luxury scratch and is why Stella
McCartney, Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten, which has used an expensive
silk viscose faux, have all incorporated it into recent collections. Multi-tonal finishes
and a softer hand can now be achieved, where once it was starkly simulated. You’ve
likely already been hoodwinked by simulated fur (one pair of Simone Rocha slides,
tapered in just the right places, colour modulated just right, had this writer convinced).
While faux fur dates back to the late 1920s, its quality wasn’t considered
commercially viable until the 1950s. As recently as three years ago, designers like
Weiland turned to toy makers and interior textile companies to provide the quality Givenchy coat, $13,350.
fluffy fabrics they desired. In one of its debut collections, British brand Isa Arfen
created a teddy coat from the actual thing – the material sourced from the mills that
create Steiff teddy bears. Today, mills are getting more sophisticated in their
production, exploring the use of two different fibres to emulate the long and short
hair in the pelts of mink – one that is shrinkable and one that is not – or by mixing
fibres of different coarseness. And with quality comes the matching price tags, with
McCartney, Burberry and Isa Arfen charging upwards of $3,000 a coat.
And for those concerned about the impact of using polymers (most faux fur is Shrimps jacket,
$705, from www.
created from varying blends of acrylic and polyester) and dyeing them in rainbow stylebop.com.
colours, Canter points out that manufacturers are introducing natural fibres.
“Several European mills have really been creating incredible faux-fur textiles, many
of which have wool or viscose bases that make them more sustainable.” Chloé
Mendel, a fifth-generation couturier and descendant of Joseph Mendel, also ventured
into faux fur, starting label Maison Atia in 2017, and aims to give back by supporting
a no-kill animal shelter from her sales. Canter, too, uses recycled polyester, and
Frame jacket,
keeps production local to reduce her carbon output. $990.
For some, it’s not about pitting fake against real, but if they were, faux happens to be
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

easier to care for. Shani advises shaking a faux-fur piece upside-down before each
wear for an instant refresh, while styles can be dry-cleaned more easily than real ones,
which need proper aeration to prevent fur strands from drying and snapping off.
Oh, and don’t forget being vigilant about oil, perfume, make-up, sunlight and smoke.
Consider that fur once wasn’t something women traditionally bought for themselves: Zimmermann
BENNY HORNE GEORG NA EGAN

it was a way for male admirers to show their adoration. How quaint this seems now,
$3,750.
as we tip the equality scales and have fun with what we choose to wear, and how.
Today, it’s about capturing Calvin Klein’s irony, but wearing it like it’s the real thing.
It’s not about convincing; it’s about wearing something that, plainly, looks good. Dries
Van Noten is drawn to it because of its connotations, fake or real, good taste or bad
taste: “You don’t know anymore what you’re looking at,” he once said. “And for me
that becomes the most intriguing way to make garments in fashion.” ■
VOGUE V IEW POINT

SNAPSHOT

Tight knit
ST YLING K AI L A MAT TH E WS
PHOTOG R APH D U N CAN KI LLI CK

R emember that old Coogi sweater?

Well, it’s transformed into a kicky box
print. The new knits aren’t interested
in sitting pretty: they’re for moving, doing
and bringing to life the new-season pieces.
Full of energy, they cast aside any links to
grandpa’s chunky Arans and instead are
electric-bright, lean and slinky. Who says?
Prada does, and Chanel and Burberry, which
wove a technicoloured vision in graphic
knits so bright they practically hum. Get in
on the buzz. Alice Birrell

Left: Kid wears a Prada knitted top, $1,590, and

hat, $550. Acne jeans, $500. Centre: Ruby wears
a Chanel dress, $3,960, from the Chanel boutiques.
Dinosaur Designs earrings, $120. Right: Magson
wears a Burberry sweater, $1,020, and pants, $1,080.

60
J U LY 2 0 1 8 6 1
62
All eyes on her
Australian style authority Yasmin Sewell has long been one of fashion’s most watched. She tells Alice
Birrell how she keeps it all together, with signature style nous, when she packs for fashion week.
PHOTOG R APHS CAN D I CE L AKE
VOGUE V IEW POINT

$405. Vintage Bulgari

Yasmin Sewell wears a

boots, $1,590.
Pamela Love earrings,
Acne jeans, $380.
www.farfetch.com.
Christopher Kane

watch. Paco Rabanne

dress, $4,980, from
 T
he trick to getting to the heart of a woman’s style is own words, this is how she transports all this around the world with her and how
rarely to ask her outright to describe it; fashion’s she came to develop the approach that has everyone watching.
most admired are often stumped when asked to
define their own sensibilities. Yasmin Sewell is perhaps a Fashion week formula
little different, being one who has long attracted street “As I get older I dress with more ease and less effort – not that I dressed with lots of
style photographer’s lenses across nearly two decades effort before, but there’s something about being in my 40s and really knowing the
working as a buyer and consultant, and has been asked to items that I want to own. I also now like to clear out my wardrobe at the end of a
talk about it on more than one occasion. Add to that her season and start fresh wherever possible. I tend to have my looks of the season which
current role as Farfetch’s vice-president of style and are made up of what I want to wear depending on the weather … warm or cold my
creative, and she has had to learn to nail things quickly for mood will change. Right now, I’m wearing many Harley Viera-Newton dresses
twice-yearly trips to fashion week, meaning a whittling of because they’re the easiest thing ever, Céline blazers, because they own tailoring in
her style down to key tropes has been a must. my mind, Nike Air Max trainers, because why not walk on clouds? Gold shell
“It is really fun for me, as it’s a time when I get to pick necklaces from Tohum are also making a regular appearance.”
my favourite pieces of the season and turn them into
outfits I feel good in,” says Sewell, “and that’s the formula Packing prowess
I use to put any of my looks together, whether it’s going “I don’t like having too much and hate taking more than one suitcase anywhere I go
between shows, appointments or meals.” Simple enough, – which can be a problem in winter, so I tend to pack based on outfits and I stick
and yet pinpointing the nuances that make Sewell look so with it. I also don’t pack a lot of different shoes – that helps save space! I tend to stick
singularly well-appointed is more difficult. First, there’s with one great ankle boot – preferably in white, my theory is they go with
knowing her wardrobe should be up to scratch everything. Last season I think I wore a pair of Laurence Dacade ankle boots with
professionally and be credible in a world where outward every fashion week look.” ¤
appearance – for better or worse – is scrutinised more
relentlessly than ever. That has meant a core of classic
pieces, like denim and tailoring, have emerged as Acne jacket,
$1,450, and jeans,
wardrobe bedrock. $380. Delfina
Then there’s the addition of her own forward-facing Delettrez earrings,
flavour. As someone who has moved from roles nimbly as $940 each. Her
own vintage belt.
the fashion world changes rapidly, an intuition for the
newest and most exciting has filtered into her wardrobe. A
zip-up halter-neck Marques Almeida top paired with
striped pants is one example, a tiered sugar-pink gingham
Christopher Kane dress over jeans another. If someone
were to feel out common threads, they might include long
silhouettes, dresses over jeans, statement outerwear and
unexpected accessories. The rest, though, evades definition
and is what gives her intrigue when she lets instinct lead
her and, she says, often comes filtered via the creative
minds of fashion’s brightest design talents.
“Great new designers influence me, and I embrace
them,” reflects Sewell, who has been an early adopter of
buzzy names like Rejina Pyo – remember that off-shoulder
flecked white crepe dress that tied in a bow at the back? It
sold out promptly everywhere after street style images
circulated widely. “I’m not scared of trying something
different and I’m always experimenting within my own
silhouette.” For someone who came to London from
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

Sydney and set up her own Soho boutique at the age of 21,
began consulting for brands globally, then co-founded
fashion label Être Cécile in 2013, before going on to become
the creative lead at top-tier online retailers, agility and
flexibility has defined both her style and her career:
chameleonic and unable to be boxed in.
Her role now is key in bringing an editorial element to
online luxury retailer Farfetch, heading up creative content
as she works slightly away from the commercial end than
usual. A mother to two, being based in London has also
fuelled an affinity with the experimental and ensures she
continues to be the girl to look for outside the shows. In her

J U LY 2 0 1 8 6 3
VOGUE V IEW POINT

Maison Margiela
STREET STYLE FILE jacket, P.O.A. Alyx
sweater, $845, from
www.farfetch.com.
J.W. Anderson skirt,
$1,400, from www.
farfetch.com. Delfina
Delettrez earrings,
$940 each. Christian
Dior boots, $1,790.

Gucci bag, $3,455.

Topshop
jeans,
$75.

Céline
sweatshirt,
SEWELL’S NAMES-
$1,750. TO-KNOW “NEW ONES
THAT I’M REALLY LOVING ARE
MARINE SERRE, KOCHÉ AND
MATTY BOVAN, WHO ALL HAVE
SUPER-STRONG, UNIQUE
IDENTITIES AND DON’T SHY
AWAY FROM WILD IDEAS.”

Whatever the weather

Céline “I love dresses, so when it’s warmer I tend to wear a lot of those and pack a dress for each day.

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
boots,
$2,100. Winter is harder – you need a lot of coats and I wouldn’t be able to fit them all in one suitcase, so
winter is about layering and rotating pieces. Last fashion month for me was about a Balenciaga
cardigan that was cut really well for wearing over dresses, and Yeezy thigh-high boots – great
second skin in freezing weather.”

A day in the life

GEORG NA EGAN CAND CE LAKE

“In my new role at Farfetch I don’t spend as much time meeting designers daily as I did as a buyer
– I have a great team who keep me informed and I also try my best to get out there as much as
possible. I love meeting designers in person, that’s when you get the real spirit of who they are
and where they’re going. For me it’s about the creatives that I am fortunate to work with … the
best moments come from when you sit with someone, you’re aligned, we eat, we listen to music,
Zimmermann dress, $2,500. we get inspired and then magic.” ■

64 J U LY 2 01 8
VOGUE V IEW POINT

TA K E N OT E

PUT A
RIBBON
From dainty in
pearls and crystals
for an ornamental
touch, to billowing
silks, satins and
velvet for a dramatic
flourish, bows will
tie up and finish
off every look.
ST YLING PH I LI PPA M O RO N E Y
PHOTOG R APH D U N CAN KI LLI CK

Alex Perry dress, $1,950.

Antique Persian Tabriz
rug, $16,000, from
Cadrys, throughout.

66
 Above: Camilla and Marc dress,
$499. Maison Margiela belt, $430,
from www.matchesfashion.com.
Top right: Lee Mathews dress, $499.
Fendi bag, $5,190. Left: Gucci dress,
$2,355. Right: Chanel tights, $570,
and shoes, $3,250, from the Chanel
boutiques. Below: Miu Miu dress,
$4,890, and tank top, $570.
Tiffany & Co. earrings, $11,700,
W O R D S : Z A R A W O N G H A R : P E T E L E N N O N M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D M O D E L : H A N N A H W I C K

and necklaces, from top, $11,900,

$8,600 and $6,800.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

J U LY 2 0 1 8 6 7
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Two factory workers
inspect a finished coat.

Beyond
measure
As a fashion house from an antiquated
township turned into an empire, it should have
had to grow up and leave home. This is why
MaxMara didn’t, and couldn’t. By Alice Birrell.

ST YLING PE T TA CH UA
PHOTOG R APH JAKE TER R E Y

68
Inside the
archive boxes,
pictured right.

Belts awaiting hand-finishing.

At Manifattura di San
Maurizio, MaxMara produces
coats including its famous
camel styles. The factory is
climate controlled, bright and MaxMara’s
spacious to create the best fashion director,
working conditions. Laura Lusuardi.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 6 9
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Historic marvels in Reggio Emilia, a
second century BC town two hours out
of Milan. MaxMara has been a constant
in the lives of locals since 1951.
In Reggio Emilia, a region famed for
its produce, MaxMara owns a dairy
producing official parmigiano reggiano.
70
T
heir names are Roberta, Paola, and Sandra. They are here not in person, but
in wardrobe form – tailored sleeves, sharp shoulders, patent shoes, a belt –
in the archive warehouse of Italian label MaxMara on the cusp of city
Reggio Emilia’s historical centre in northern Italy. “When she passed away she
donated to me two coats,” says Laura Lusuardi, MaxMara’s fashion director,
gesturing at a collection of cream tailoring and mixed prints, from Chanel to Zandra
Rhodes and Ossie Clark. “This is her personal wardrobe; she only bought MaxMara,”
she continues about another. “She auctioned her clothing in Milan, but it was too
quick. I couldn’t keep up so I didn’t buy anything, but I had fun,” she remembers as
she moves between the racks, drawing back black curtains that protect the clothes.
Since joining the label as a teenager in 1964, Lusuardi has in effect become the
house’s archivist and DNA custodian, and has built a 24,000-piece collection in part
from women who have given her their wardrobes. “We saved her wardrobe, actually,
otherwise it would have been given away,” she says before she moves to Audrey,
Coco and then Carine … Hepburn, Chanel and Roitfeld, that is. This particular way
of ordering the three-story archive, including the collections of MaxMara, she
explains, preserves clothing as it existed in women’s living wardrobes. “We have the
names of the person because this is obviously her style,” she says as she nods to the
text clipped to the front of each section. “We keep the clothes together.”
The building is one of the spokes in a wheel that fans out from the town centre and
includes MaxMara’s headquarters, factory, its art institution housing founder Achille
Maramotti’s art collection, and the archive. “If you end up coming here you’re usually
willing to give me something … I’m always available,” she says with a sly smile.
They’d be easily wooed. The cobbled streets of the second-century BC town just south
of Milan are lined with pasticcerie, and salumerie selling hefty slabs of parmigiano
reggiano and dainty decanters of Modena balsamic. Restaurants serve cappelletti
reggiani, or stuffed pasta in clear broth. Look again and the vintage boutiques are filled
with MaxMara’s and Anne Marie Beretta’s designs, the woman responsible for the
label’s iconic 101801 camel coat, while a healthy portion of the restaurants, one of which
the house owns, have Michelin star plaques just under their daily specials sign.
They are as embedded in the town, the birthplace of Maramotti, as can be. “The
whole idea of fast fashion – a lot of people who are engaged in it are actually scared of
it,” creative director Ian Griffiths later says at the expansive glass and steel headquarters.
“Everyone’s looking for something that has more meaning. They’re more particular
about whether they visit a new city, about where they’ll stay, the car they’re driving,
how it’s affecting the world they live.” It is part of the reason MaxMara is happy
telling the story of a tiny region that gave rise to a global business with stores in 105
countries, and hasn’t moved from the town since its founding by Maramotti in 1951.
The flip side though, to telling history’s tale, is letting it weigh too heavily on your
present. Griffiths, who writes the label’s four seasonal chapters, knows this and says
he finds modern relevance in Maramotti’s principles. “When he launched the
company, he wasn’t interested in countesses and princesses, because they’re all
slender and beautiful and got all their clothes for free; he was interested in providing
clothes for real women,” he says. “Reggio Emilia is very much a real town. It’s one of
the few towns in Italy that doesn’t have a noble family.”
He points out that Maramotti, raised watching his mother run a dressmaking
school preaching clothes to fit the woman, not the other way around, had both near-
and far-sightedness, the former for social trends that Maramotti parlayed into
clothes. “He knew women were starting to drive cars, starting to work independently,
he foresaw the rise of ready-to-wear in Paris, the demise of couture,” says Griffiths
of the post-war period. As a result he did away with a misura, made-to-measure,
bringing in time-efficient ready-to-wear.
Never though, Griffiths thinks, was he stuck inside the immediate sphere of his
existence. “Anything he decided to engage with he did with full knowledge and
research,” he reflects. “He became very influential within the world of Italian art. He
contributed to the development of the 1970s movement Arte Povera. He wanted to
become involved with agriculture so he became a really informed person on the
cultivation of parmesan cheese; it was his understanding of the world.” ¤
 Workers in Manifattura di San Maurizio wear white
coats to handle and work on MaxMara’s coats,
mirrored here in one of the house’s styles.
JAKE TERREY

J U LY 2 0 1 8 7 1
VOGUE V IEW POINT
At the house’s archives, the label’s
famous 10180 coat hangs among
vintage couture and historic clothing
collected from cultures all over the
world from the 20th century to today.
Part of that was collaboration – now a hallmark of the
internet age – which became a way for Maramotti to plug “THIS COAT
into the world at large. He invited, anonymously, external IS REALLY
consultants to work on collections; not many cliental
might know that their coat, their trousers, had been
PERFECT; IT
conceived of by Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Charles Castelbajac, WORKS IF YOU
Narciso Rodriguez or the Proenza Schouler designers. ARE TALL
That spirit of innovation is applied to things like the
label’s newer Whitney bag, the surface leather cajoled into
OR PETITE”
three precise vertical lines. “We had to combine Tuscan
leather techniques with laser techniques; lasers mark out the precise
point on the leather skin and craftsmen, where the laser has weakened
the leather, raise it into a pleat and stitch it by hand,” says Griffiths.
The same blend of old and new is poured most directly into MaxMara’s
tent-pole pieces: coats. At a third-wheel spoke, Manifattura di San
Maurizio, factory director Giuseppe Bacci approaches quality in a
philosophical manner. About 20 different coat styles are being made at
the time of visiting, each requiring roughly 100 steps each to complete
and each undergoing six quality checks. He stands over a ‘mattress’, or
layers of dove-grey fabric, ready to be cut by laser. Each piece then gets
a serial number used to track it from start to finish, with one coat
coming from the same piece of cloth. “One layer, one coat – this is it,” he
says of ensuring utmost consistency of colour and texture. “We don’t
mix the pieces: we recompose the jigsaw.”
In the next room, dedicated seamstresses hand-finish buttons, pockets
and lining, though 20 per cent of the working staff are trained across
different stations to bring flexibility to the production line, should
someone fall ill. “She is very good at this,” he says as a seamstress folds
plump wool to create a buttonhole. Elsewhere a young apprentice is being
72
tutored on belt stitching, while liquid gold linings are hot
pressed by surprisingly young women nearby. Three and a
half per cent of products fail quality checks and so get sent
back, via the serial numbers, to the error point.
New staff members at MaxMara invariably do ‘coats
education’ with Lusuardi to familiarise themselves with
all this. “Even if the new member is in charge as an
accountant, or not dealing with fashion itself, it’s
important,” she explains. “It’s not a question of a design
team coming in with a new creative director who wants
to revolutionise and run the risk of throwing away all that history,
because of the fact that MaxMara relies on staff,” echoes Griffiths.
Time is spent fostering young talent much like Maramotti. “Younger
people have changed MaxMara,” Lusuardi says citing the way they wear
the 101801 over everything. “They pay more attention to quality.” The
design ethos of the label – based on function and quality to slot into real
life – Griffiths posits, has been malleable enough to move with the times.
“I think that’s one of the reasons that makes the brand appeal to younger
women,” he says. “At a time where there’s just so much stuff, it simply
doesn’t signify anything. MaxMara does signify something.”
Back in the archives, we have moved to the ground floor, where
MaxMara coats in khaki, navy and buttery camel hug one another in neat
rows. Lusuardi pulls one out, utilitarian pockets on the front, the shape
of which hasn’t dated. “This is from the 80s,” she says, “but you could
wear it now.” She addresses a full rack of 101801: “This coat is really
perfect; it works if you are tall or petite. If the sleeves are a bit long you
JAKE TERREY
can fold them up so. Every woman should have a timeless coat.” And
perhaps it one day might end up right here, in the archives in the small
town of Reggio Emilia, under a yet-to-be-known woman’s name. ■
J U LY 2 01 8
VOGUE CU LTU R E

Working the land

Surrounded by idyllic rural settings all her life, Belynda Henry
had no choice but to become a landscape artist. By Jane Albert.
ST YLING PH I LI PPA M O RO N E Y
PHOTOG R APH JAKE TER R E Y

M
uch of Belynda Henry’s life has been lived in near isolation and immersed
in nature. And she wouldn’t have it any other way. The visual artist enjoys
nothing more than being bunkered down in her Hunter Valley, New
South Wales, studio, where she can paint uninterrupted. But when Vogue catches up
with her, it’s in the bustling loading dock of the Art Gallery of New South Wales. It
was here, almost two decades ago, as Henry entered her first canvas in the prestigious
Wynne Prize, that she saw something that will always stay with her.
“There was this 90-something-year-old lady and she pulled up in a little car with
her painting strapped on the roof,” she explains. “She had pigtails and crooked
circles of rouge on her cheeks and I thought: ‘I’m going to keep doing this until I’m
your age.’ She was such an inspiration. And I probably will, although maybe not
with pigtails. I just love every part of it.”
And it’s immediately clear just how much joy she derives from art. It’s also clear
she knows what she’s doing. In the 19 years since she first entered the Wynne Prize,
Henry has been a finalist an impressive four times for landscape, and also a finalist
in the more high-profile Archibald Prize in 2016, with a portrait of Dinosaur Designs
co-founder Louise Olsen. Today she’s cultivating quite the following, with
profiles in The Design Files, Vogue Living and reality TV show The Block, the latter
resulting in two years’ worth of commissions that enabled her to give up casual
teaching. Being a finalist in the Archibald came with its own perks, too, including
speaking engagements with Wendy Whiteley and comedian Lawrence Leung.
Nevertheless, Henry craves solitude. She lives in the secluded Dooralong Valley,
about 40 kilometres northwest of Terrigal, with her husband, two daughters and
dogs, and would happily go days without leaving the house. She’s happiest painting
in her studio, with its views up the valley. Henry has been with husband Michael
since she was 19, and daughters Chloe and Milla similarly relish their bush idyll.
“I do come to Sydney to bring work to the gallery,” she says. “I like to get out, see
exhibitions, talk to the galleries, have coffee with friends. But not too often.”
Henry’s life has always been steeped in art and nature. “When I was small, we
lived in Kenthurst, then Tamworth, which I loved,” she remembers. “We had a lot of
land and that’s where I got my appreciation for landscape and colours.” Both parents
were ceramicists and painters. Her own talent was spotted and nurtured by her
high-school teacher, who encouraged her to pursue visual art beyond the classroom,
which she did at the Sydney College of the Arts. “I always knew I was going to be an
artist,” she says. “I didn’t have a choice; that’s what I loved.”

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
For job security she added a diploma to her fine arts degree and was teaching part-
time at her old high school, when her old teacher bailed her up and demanded she
focus on art full-time. “That weekend he was killed in a motorcycle accident,” she

H A I R : P E T E L E N N O N M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
recalls. “He was the biggest influence on my life, so I knew I had to [give it a go].”
Henry has been represented by prestigious galleries ever since, most recently Stuart
Purves’s Australian Galleries in Sydney and Flinders Lane Gallery in Melbourne, Artist Belynda Henry surrounded
where she has upcoming solo exhibitions of her new series of landscape paintings, by a selection of her works, among
works on paper and sculptures in June and February 2019 respectively. them a landscape, Always to the End,
2018 (left), which is part of her new
Renowned for her landscapes, Henry favours acrylics, layering paint in dreamy, solo exhibition, and a portrait of
earthy colours, reminiscent of the terrain that surrounds her. “I’m inspired by my interior designer Sibella Court, Time
valley and places I go, but then I let my imagination play with colours.” ■
Traveller, 2018 (right). Henry wears
a KitX top, $495, and skirt, $695.
Belynda Henry’s solo exhibition Landscape Lines can be seen at Australian Galleries, Her own apron, ring and boots.
Sydney, until July 1.

76
J U LY 2 0 1 8 7 7
Audi Vorsprung durch Technik
VOGUE PROMOTION
 VOGUE CODES

Streets ahead
As an urban planner and social entrepreneur,
Lucinda Hartley has pioneered innovative
methods to improve the social sustainability
of cities. She co-founded Neighbourlytics, a
company that uses big data to inform urban
development decisions. Here, she shares how
she uses technology to harness her creativity.
Gender equality is something I feel passionate about. I was shocked to enter the
workforce as a young urban designer and find that I was the only woman on the floor.
Experiencing that kind of isolation and exclusion in the workplace was tough. Seeking
professional networks and female leaders in my industry was an encouraging step.
While I never questioned my capacity to enter technical professions, it took me a long
time to give myself permission to lead. I had lots of big ideas but I didn’t see myself as
an entrepreneur. Much of this is to do with the fact that we can’t be what we can’t see.
I’m passionate about seeing more women in leadership roles in my profession,
principally because it has the capability to fundamentally change the way we live.
Almost all of the places you experience every day – from public transport to local
parks – have been shaped by men. It’s no wonder then that, even in Melbourne,

I
come from a long line of technically minded female where I’m based, a third of women feel unsafe in public spaces at night.
leaders. My great-grandmother was the first woman to Neighbourlytics plays a part in this. Not just as a female-led start-up but also in the
drive a car from Sydney to Melbourne, my grandmother important role we play in making the invisible parts of cities – the people, culture,
was one of Australia’s few female doctors back in the 1940s, social connection – visible through data analysis and visualisation.
and my mum is a botanist and climate scientist. The next decade for me is in technology, which must be in my DNA. I’m fortunate this
Science was part of growing up. It wouldn’t be uncommon year to be selected as a 2018 Westpac Social Change Fellow. This has come at a pivotal
for us to go on a beach holiday with canisters of liquid time when I’m stepping away from more traditional urban design and community
nitrogen in the back of the car, or suddenly pull over at development and into data analytics. This opportunity will enable me to connect
roadside cuttings to take rock samples driving on a highway. internationally with mentors and partners to accelerate learning in this new field.
They weren’t just family holidays – they were field trips. Lucinda Hartley is speaking at the Vogue Codes Summit in Sydney on June 22. For details,
I always felt strongly encouraged to pursue science and go to codes.vogue.com.au.
technology, something I now know is rare. It was then
positively rebellious that I chose not to. I had an argument
with my dad because I wanted to study art and he felt very
strongly that I should do physics. Needless to say, I chose
art; it was one of my best subjects and I haven’t looked back.
I’m an urban designer turned entrepreneur. My passion is
making cities socially inclusive and connected. My love of
cities stems from growing up in cities across four continents.
Our ‘field trips’ weren’t just limited to Australia but involved
secondments to Zimbabwe, England, Switzerland, South
Africa and a host of other places. I saw that cities – in all
their different shapes, colours and sizes – had the capacity to
connect people and culture. But I also got a very tangible
understanding of inequality. I saw, even early on, that the
way we plan and design cities can either hurt or heal. I knew
I wanted to be part of the story of making things better.
Over the past decade, I’ve been involved in kick-starting a
range of social-change initiatives that help make cities more
socially inclusive, particularly for vulnerable and hard-to-
reach groups. This includes working on slum resettlement
projects with the United Nations, and delivering more than
100 neighbourhood improvement projects in Australia
through my consultancy firm CoDesign Studio.
While initially deviating from my science and technology
roots, I’ve now come full circle. Last year, together with my
co-founder Jessica Christiansen-Franks, we launched our
latest venture, Neighbourlytics – a social data analytics
platform, which enables decision-makers to understand
how cities work by tapping into social data.
Jessica and I are both urban designers, with no previous
software experience. All we knew is that there had to be a
better way to understand how cities worked, rather than
relying on surveys. We sought out technical partners and
built a bespoke product that solves an industry problem.
VOGUE CODES
Heart of the matter
Social entrepreneur Leila Janah always knew she wanted to
give back in a meaningful way. As well as empowering workers
in developing countries through her company Samasource,
she provides a healthy wage for women in Africa via her
natural skincare enterprise, LXMI. By Zara Wong.
L
eila Janah is, for the briefest of moments, back in her head office in San
Francisco’s Mission district. Brief, because having just returned from a rare
four-day holiday in Bali, she’s about to head to Hong Kong for work before
making a trip to Europe. “Jet lag is a kind of norm for me, sadly. I’m good with it, but
I don’t really have a choice, and with two companies and a book …” she trails off,
with a shrug. Right now she is fitting in a take-away lunch during our interview, for
which she apologises profusely, but such is the day-to-day of a serial social
impact entrepreneur.
“I don’t love travelling as much for work, but I love achieving our mission and it
requires that, so it’s a privilege to do it.” The mission Janah is referring to is bringing
“dignified internet work” to people living in poverty in Uganda, Kenya, India and
Haiti through her company Samasource, a business based on impact outsourcing, if
you will. So far Samasource has trained and found internet work for 10,000 people,
generating employment for them with companies such as eBay, Google and Getty
Images while also ensuring they’re paid an above-average wage. ‘Give work’ is the
mantra, and also the name of Janah’s book about her career, which came out last year.
In person, Janah is striking, with skin that boasts the kind of luminosity that exists
when one also runs a beauty company (her’s is LXMI – but more on that later). She
became the first person in her high school to attend Harvard – “because they offered
me the best financial package”, she says pragmatically, and supplemented that with
wages earned through cleaning toilets, working as a waitress and tutoring other
students. “But socially it was hard because I came from a lower income background
in southern California where it’s not very class conscious, which Boston is.”
Janah’s parents had migrated from Calcutta, India, and instilled in her and her
brother a love of nature. “I still find my happy place when I’m in the jungle or in a
remote, natural area. I’m very thankful for my childhood, because it wasn’t
programmed and my gift was that I’m naturally curious. My parents couldn’t afford
for me to do ballet classes so I had to take on babysitting to take the classes, which
made me take it seriously,” she explains. She
only took cello lessons as an adult when she
could afford to pay for them herself. “I want to
Following Harvard, Janah found herself in
management consulting, but aspired to work
create things
in poverty reduction. “I knew when I joined the but I try to be
firm I was not going to be a career consultant,” patient for
she says of her time there, which she adds, “was
like a free MBA – they teach you financial
opportunities
analysis, business acumen, how to read a P&L that are coming
and all these skills that are useful to have if in instead of
you’re starting a company.”
Although her goal was to find a role in poverty
trying to open
reduction, she says: “I felt that maybe the best doors that
thing I could do was to figure out how to create are closed,
direct, measureable impact myself. I wanted to because that’s
directly create jobs for people. I had the inkling
of the idea for Samasource when I was working what tires
in Africa when I was in college.” Samasource you out”
82
launched in 2008 and also includes Samaschool in the US,
which trains low-income Americans in skills to help them
in the gig economy. It recently won a US$1 million grant
from Google.
Janah’s second company, LXMI, launched in 2015. The
concept for the business arose when she suffered dry skin
while travelling and discovered a solution at a Ugandan
market: nilotica, a type of wild shea butter packed with
antioxidants. The ingredient became the basis of the
natural skincare range, which is now sold at Sephora US.
That it is stocked there was fortuitous: a contact of Janah,
who worked at the company, nominated LXMI for
Sephora’s accelerator program, which promotes female
entrepreneurs. “It sounds crazy, but I believe in serendipity,
and even manufacturing your own serendipity. I want to
create things, but I try to be patient for opportunities that
are coming in instead of pushing and trying to open doors
that are closed, because that’s what tires you out. When
you’re ready and prepared, things happen,” says Janah.
LXMI provides a wage to its female workers three times
the local average wage. “The best way to help low-income
women is to buy things from them as directly as possible
and give them the agency that a pay cheque creates.”
When LXMI was established, Samasource was well
under way. “It might not have been the smartest idea to
launch [LXMI] so soon after Samasource, but I’m the type
of person who doesn’t like to sit by the side of the pool
reading magazines, because I get so bored. I need to be
creating things because that’s what gets me excited and out
of bed,” says Janah.
To calm her mind, she participates in extreme sports like
kite-surfing and paragliding. “Because they’re so
engrossing when you do them, you can’t think about what
emails you haven’t sent!” she explains. “The hardest part of
working for me is the stress – I get stressed about things
I should or shouldn’t be doing as opposed to the stress of
actually doing it, which is a waste of time. Those sports
force me to be fully present and focused in the moment.”
On her recent holiday to Bali, in between yoga and trying
to unwind, she was still researching ingredients for the
new LXMI products, meeting with herbalists and healers
and talking to locals about job creation in the textile sector.
“My brain is always spinning with ideas about this
business. To me, it’s not a burden because it’s what I love,”
she says, comparing nurturing her business to having
a child. (She doesn’t have children, and has written for
Glamour magazine about freezing her eggs.) “My friends
who do have children say they’re always on your mind. You
drop your kid off at day care but it’s not like you don’t think
about them … you’re wondering if they’ve eaten, slept.
There’s a part of your brain that’s always churning around
what’s going on with the company, and I would be doing
this even if it weren’t my job, because it’s my passion.”
Leila Janah is speaking at Vogue Codes Summit in Sydney on June
22 and Vogue Codes Live on June 23. Go to codes.vogue.com.au.
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J U LY 2 0 1 8 8 3
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V O G U E

COLD FRONT
Give winter skin
concerns like
irritation, dryness,
redness and flare-ups
the cold shoulder
with treatments and
elixirs to nourish and
protect all season.
By Remy Rippon.

B E A U T Y
VOGUE BE AUT Y

Hydration station
Incorporate an oil into
your winter beauty
regimen. We love Go-To
Exceptionoil, $51.
 I
f we were handing out awards for MVP of winter,
it would have to go to fashion: huggable cashmere and
voluptuous layers are forgiving. The same can’t be said
of our skin. The cold front brings with it a host of concerns,
such as dehydration, irritation and redness, that are
unmistakably etched across our complexions. Before you
prematurely bid farewell to glowing skin, adopt a few
simple swap-outs, super-charged treatments and souped-up
products that will see you through the dry spell.
Slough away summer
“There is a misconception that you should avoid exfoliating
in winter, when in fact the skin needs it to remove dry dead
cells,” says Sydney-based facialist Jocelyn Petroni. But it’s
important to keep in mind that exfoliating isn’t a one-step
process: it’s just as important to follow up with nourishing
creams and serums to replenish hydration post-buff. Scale
back mechanical scrubs (those with tiny granules) and dial
up gentle chemical exfoliants like vitamin C and glycolic
and lactic acids. And resist the urge to overdo it –
exfoliating up to two times per week is plenty.
Don’t skimp on SPF
It may seem common knowledge but it bears repeating –
sunscreen is non-negotiable, particularly in the winter
months, when we don’t feel the heat. “When choosing a
sunscreen, you should look for something that is complete
spectrum to protect from solar-induced free radical
damage. A complete spectrum sunscreen will protect
from UV-A and UV-B rays,” says Endota Spa national
education coordinator Cara Doncovio, calling out UV-A
rays as the ones that penetrate deepest and cause the most
BABY, IT’S COLD OUTSIDE
Formulas with a singular objective:
better skin during the cold snap.
1. Clarins SOS Pure Rebalancing Clay Mask, $52. 2. Dr. Barbara
Sturm Deep Hydrating Face Mask, $212. 3. Kiehl’s Ginger Leaf
& Hibiscus Firming Mask, $82. 4. L’Occitane Aqua Réotier Fresh
Hydrating Mist, $18. 5. Chanel Le Lait Anti Pollution Cleansing
Milk to Oil, $62. 6. Endota Spa Organics Advanced Eye Contour
Cream, $50. 7. Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment, $65.
5.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
7.
PULMANNS
damage. The latest oil-free, creamy formulas are so smooth they could be mistaken
for moisturiser, so there’s no reason not to slather it on daily.
Protect from pollution
While we’re on the subject of protection, pollution has been a buzzword in the
dermatology industry over the past year, with many experts convinced it could be as
damaging as UV rays. When left to manifest on the skin, pollution – nasties like fumes,
dirt, smoke and dust – creates free radicals that accelerate ageing. “Free radicals can
cause damage to the skin, resulting in skin irritation and aggravating skin conditions
such as eczema,” says Doncovio. “We need to protect the skin from pollution, as it sits
on the surface and penetrates into the deeper layers, affecting the cell DNA and
supporting systems that assist in healthy functioning skin.” Use a moisturiser that
specifically protects against environmental aggressors and slough away the day’s
debris each night with a gentle night-time cleanser. (We love Chanel’s new Le Lait Anti-
Pollution Cleansing Milk-to-Oil, $62.) And, of course, never nod off in your make-up.
Nix that pigmentation
Hyperpigmentation takes the crown for one of the most frustrating skin concerns, but
if there’s ever a time to tackle it, it’s the winter months. Anyone with hyperpigmentation
knows that it’s exacerbated by sunlight and heat, so a course of brawny treatments
should be reserved for winter, when the skin has time to recover. “During wintertime
the sun is weaker and the days are shorter,” says surgeon and skincare expert
Dr Barbara Sturm. She endorses in-clinic treatments like Clear + Brilliant and medical
needling procedures, and recommends a vampire level of sun avoidance. “After these
treatments, the patient should not go directly into sunlight and wear SPF 50 if they
are outside for longer than 15 minutes,” she says. Hyperpigmentation is a bit like a
bad ex: if you don’t give it the flick for good, it will keep returning.
Avoid a dry spell
You’re not imagining it. A recent study published in the British Journal of Dermatology
found that during the colder months, important proteins found in the skin’s barrier
break down and skin cells actually shrink, which outwardly shows up as dryness
and even flaking. Thankfully, moisturiser will help any complexion on the spectrum
of peach to prune. Look for ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5,
shea butter and hyaluronic acid, and, texture-wise, opt for one richer than what’s on
your current roster. “Depending on what moisturiser you usually wear, in winter opt
for one that is richer: if you wear a light lotion, switch it up to moisturiser. If you
already use a moisturiser, switch it up to a richer one,” says Petroni.
Learn to love oils
If there’s ever a time to overcome your fear of sloughing oil all over, it’s the cooler
months. A daily face oil is handy for repairing the skin’s protective barrier and
thwarting trans-epidermal water loss, which surges during winter, thanks to chilly
temperatures and indoor heating. “You can maintain the skin’s protective barrier by
upgrading your home-care products to those that contain more oil,” says Petroni, who
recommends adding a couple of drops of oil to clean skin before applying moisturiser,
or spiking your moisturiser, foundation or sunscreen with it. We also like boosting
night creams with a couple of drops of oil, for a super-charged overnight treatment.
Get out of hot water
While a long, hot shower may be nearly irresistible come winter, the soaring
temperatures might be doing your complexion more harm than good. Issues like dry
skin, rosacea and eczema are likely to flare-up under hot water. Take shorter showers
and test the temperature on the supple skin on your forearm. Post-scrub, slather
your creams onto damp skin to prevent moisture loss. “Manage winter skin by
keeping lip balm and a hydrating face mist in your handbag,” advises Petroni. And
cool it on the heater. “It’s also beneficial to sleep in a room that is not overly heated,
in order to prevent the skin from drying out during the night,” notes Sturm. ■
J U LY 2 0 1 8 9 1
 A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
Scrub down
Post-shower, lather
creams into still-damp
skin to lock in moisture.
Try Neutrogena Hydro
Boost Serum Anti-
PULMANNS

Oxidant Capsules, $30.

92
 Brighten up
The foolproof way to
make winter skin
glow? A swipe of ruby
lipstick like Yve Saint
Laurent’s Rouge Pur
Couture in Le
Orange, $57.
VOGUE BE AUT Y

UP CLOSE

ART DIREC TION D IJANA MAD D I SO N

PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA
VOGUE BE AUT Y
Shake it up
The future of beauty looks bright, thanks to a new breed
of disruptive, innovative and inclusive brands stepping
outside the beauty box. By Remy Rippon.
ype ‘new season beauty’ into the Google search bar and chances are you’ll
T be met with something you like. Something that feels like you. Because
whether it’s a splash of glitter, bold holographic lips, feathery brows,
a frizzed-out mane or deliberately bare skin, beauty has pivoted into uncharted
territory without a road map or a care in the world. While it may be one of the most
overworked words in the fashion and beauty industry today, ‘disruption’ also
happens to be the most fitting for the mood sweeping the beauty industry right now.
Think fierce founders, innovative formulas, creative thinking and, yes, even
Rihanna. Welcome to beauty in 2018.
96
FIERCE FOUNDERS
The women leading some of the most hyped
beauty brands are as savvy as they are disruptive.
EMILY WEISS, GLOSSIER
If millennials had a beauty poster girl, it would most
certainly be Emily Weiss. The 33-year-old founder and
CEO of Glossier has amassed a modern-day beauty tribe
whose members’ opinions inform the latest launches of her
pink-packaged offerings, which include second-skin tints,
no-fuss skincare and, most recently, fragrance.
CHARLOTTE TILBURY
Before creating her namesake line in 2013, the ever-
charming Tilbury was on speed dial for celebrities like Kate
Moss (who is also a close friend) and Gisele Bündchen
ahead of a red carpet appearances. Many of the products in
her line, including Magic Cream and Eyes to Mesmerise,
have garnered cult status, thanks to their expert textures
and brilliant colour pay-off.
TIFFANY MASTERSON, DRUNK ELEPHANT
A relative newcomer, Drunk Elephant is the brainchild of
Tiffany Masterson. The Texas-based no-nonsense skincare
line marries both natural and synthetic ingredients and
was one of the fastest growing skincare lines in Sephora,
thanks to the efficacious formulas and clever packaging.
VICTORIA TSAI, TATCHA
Victoria Tsai has adapted the ancient rituals of Japanese
geisha into an efficacious skincare regimen after her own
struggle with acute dermatitis. Each product has a distinct
purpose – an ethos derived from ancient Japanese culture –
which has cultivated a dedicated following (including Kim
Kardashian, who is a fan of the blotting papers).
Tatcha The Silk Charlotte
Canvas Protective Tilbury
Primer, $76. Legendary
Lashes
Volume
2 in Black
Vinyl, $52.
Charlotte Tilbury Pretty Youth
Glow Filter blush and highlighter
duo in Seduce Blush, $60.
 ALL IN
Beauty brands taking a step towards
a more inclusive offering.
FENTY BEAUTY
When pop star Rihanna launched Fenty Beauty
last year, she single-handedly ignited a much-
needed conversation around diversity, particularly
when it comes to foundation. The collection
included 40 shades, with many selling out in
Sephora within hours of the launch.
COVERGIRL
What do 70-year-old Maye Musk, Katy Perry,
teenager James Charles and motorbike superstar
Shelina Moreda all have in common? They’re all
CoverGirl ambassadors and their appointments
mark a turning point for beauty brands to engage
spokepersons who represent a diverse range of
ages, races, sexualities and interests.
LANCÔME
Lancôme was quick to assert that, when it comes to
foundation, a spectrum consisting only of light,
medium and dark is an outdated philosophy. Like
Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty, last year’s launch of Teint
Idole Ultra Wear featured 40 customisable shades Fenty Beauty li
of the ultra-smooth formula. Bomb Glittering Pom 2.
Lisa
Violette Lucia Pica Eldridge
BRUSH UP
The creative force behind some of the largest names in beauty are
innovative, involved and positively influencing our make-up kits.
VIOLETTE, ESTÉE LAUDER GLOBAL BEAUTY DIRECTOR
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
The French-born make-up artist has infused a laissez-faire aesthetic into the heritage
beauty house with her effortless approach to beauty and her penchant for red lips.
LUCIA PICA, CHANEL GLOBAL CREATIVE MAKE-UP AND COLOUR DIRECTOR
Pica’s affection for red tones and bold colour palettes has injected a decidedly
N A D N E J E W E R E E D WA R D U R R U T A
modern edge to the Chanel offering since she took the helm in 2015 as a relatively
under-the-radar artist.
LISA ELDRIDGE, LANCÔME GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND MAKE-UP
Widely respected within the industry and beyond for her celebrity and editorial
portfolio as well as her approachable make-up commentary via YouTube, Eldridge
was one of the first of a new guard of creative directors.
Ouai Volume
Spray, $37.
DIGITAL DARLING:
FIVE MINUTES WITH JEN ATKIN
The Kardashian hairstylist and
Ouai founder shares her best advice
for building a digital beauty brand.
You’re avidly using social media to communicate
with your customers. How do you feel about your
growing social following?
“I definitely am someone who dances like nobody’s
watching. It doesn’t register to me that two million
people are seeing my posts. I just love Instagram. I love
sharing my story, I love hopefully inspiring people, but
learning information from other people, it’s really like
my social life now. At times it definitely can be
a challenge, because you are giving a lot of yourself or
you’re kind of like a sponge for other people and what’s
going on with them. Social media is a full-time job: it
never really shuts off. It’s just always there, but it’s
great, too. It grew my business and it changed my life
and my career. I definitely am a finger-on-the-pulse
type of person. I didn’t study marketing, and
Instagram has just pushed me into that world.”
Can you describe a crossroad in your career?
“That’s so easy for me: not listening to my old agent
who told me to not work with the Kardashians.”
As an incredibly busy hairstylist, how did you find
the time to create Ouai?
“I used to be a salon stylist, and then I was a salon and
celebrity stylist and then I was a celebrity stylist who
travelled all the time with my clients, and then I started
a hair website, Mane Addicts [maneaddicts.com] and
then that kind of grew into its own entity and then
Ouai was born. What’s been amazing for me is the
support I’ve had from my clients, because even when
they reach out to me and I’m on a trip or I’m doing
press or I’m doing something for Ouai and I’m
unavailable, they’ve still been so amazing and
supportive, and you know they’re really rooting for
me, which says a lot about women.”
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received?
“Jessica Alba told me once to never let someone who
can’t say yes tell you no, which I really liked.”
J U LY 2 0 1 8 9 7
 VOGUE BE AUT Y

Karl and I
A trailblazer of the Australian beauty industry,
ModelCo founder Shelley Sullivan has
pulled off one of the most exciting make-up
collaborations of the year. And she shows
no signs of slowing down, says Remy Rippon.
ST YLING K ATE DARVI LL
PHOTOG R APH DAVE WH EELER

A
holographic lip gloss topped with a pink Karl
Lagerfeld bobble-head applicator, or an
eyeshadow palette in the silhouette of Choupette,
Lagerfeld’s famous pet cat, are probably both items you
didn’t think you would ever need. But that’s exactly what
Shelley Sullivan, founder and CEO of beauty brand
ModelCo, has built an entire career on.
“Creating something women want before they know
they want it is a philosophy we use every day,” says the
44-year-old. For Sullivan, that manifested in a first-to-
market heated eyelash curler, which she launched in 2002
and which became an immediate sell-out. The curler was
closely followed by a nifty aerosol self-tan – revolutionary
in the early naughts, when finger-paint-effect tangerine
faux tans ruled. A can of ModelCo’s ground-breaking Tan
Airbrush in a Can now sells every 36 seconds.
“It’s my intuition that has been my driver my entire
career – I can tell you now, when I got the email that we Although ModelCo is already stocked in international retailers, including Boots
were going to do this Karl Lagerfeld deal, I just had that and Urban Minx, collaborating with team Karl – the brand and the man – was an
feeling,” says Sullivan, who sold 3,000 units of the 50-piece opportunity for Sullivan to cement her place among the make-up kits of a previously
Karl Lagerfeld x ModelCo collection on the website on the untapped throng of beauty buffs. “We met at his office in Paris and he thought it was
day it launched in May. very fun and loved all the products that I presented,” she says. “He’s a lovely man,
It isn’t difficult to reason why Sullivan was cherry-picked he’s very honest and has a fantastic sense of humour and he’s obviously a genius at
from a presumably overflowing pool of beauty brands to what he does.” For the launch moment, Sullivan pulled off perhaps her biggest stunt
bring Lagerfeld-anointed products to fruition. Her CV is to date. One hundred ‘beauty butlers’ decorated in black tuxedos and full-faced Karl
impressive. At just 21, the Sydneysider founded a successful Lagerfeld caricature helmets swarmed iconic Parisian landmarks (Champs-Élysées,
modelling and talent agency, before turning her attention Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Palais de Tokyo) in a flashmob-style takeover; a textbook
to beauty after spotting a shortage of quick-fix, accessibly execution for social sharing.
priced products, the sort that might be found in the It wasn’t the first time Sullivan has gone against the grain. Before pink packaging
backpack of one of the models on her books. “Back when I was practically a prerequisite for any beauty brand wanting to land in the hot hands
H A I R : KO H M A K E- U P: G I L L I A N C A M P B E L L

started the brand, there weren’t any kind of cool, of the millennial market (see Glossier, Go-To, Herbivore), Sullivan chose the boldest
D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B

innovative, fashion-forward brands, and so I knew I had to
create something innovative and unique to obviously get
featured and loved by the beauty editors,” she says in her
characteristically forthright manner. In 2002, she sidelined
her modelling agency and turned all of her attention to
expanding ModelCo; the business now boasts more than
150 make-up, skincare and tanning products.
interpretation of the hue – hot pink, which couldn’t have been more at odds with the
monochrome assortment lining the beauty shelves at the time. “When I started the
brand, I wanted to make it a hot-pink brand and I had so many people say to me:
‘You should never create a brand that’s pink: it’s not cool. It’s got to be black, silver or
white,’” says the mother of two.
Much to Sullivan’s delight, consumers responded favourably, and within a few
years of launching she could fill up a suitcase with the slew of business ¤

J U LY 2 0 1 8 9 9
VOGUE BE AUT Y

“I wanted
to make
ModelCo
a hot-pink
brand and
I had so
many people
say to me:
‘You should
never create
a brand
that’s pink: Beauty butlers take over
it’s not cool’” Paris for the launch.

accolades she was awarded. Perhaps it’s her staunch model-agent

persona shining through, but, despite this, Sullivan is refreshingly
honest and realistic about the struggles of retail: “The entire landscape
and the way women consume media has changed. We used to have two Karl Lagerfeld +
or three channels to communicate and now there are so many different ModelCo Long lasting
ways. It’s been a huge challenge for our business.” Karl Lagerfeld + Liquid Liner and Karl
ModelCo Lip Beauty Stamp, $28.
It’s not Sullivan’s style to dwell on it. She’s at once realistic – brutally
Balm, $20.
honest, even – while oozing charm and warmth. She’s direct without
being rude; efficient without being hasty. The fact that she subscribes to
a uniform of stylish head-to-toe black tailoring only further illustrates
her practical, no-nonsense approach. She’s perennially golden (from
a can, of course) and her platinum crop is always immaculately styled;
she issues broad, pearly smiles liberally.
While her brand credentials and stellar products speak for
themselves, it’s perhaps Sullivan to whom people are most drawn. agerfeld
Her knack for tapping relatable blonde bombshells (if there is such + ModelCo
Collectable Karl
a thing) to front the brand over the years has pushed it outside the Buki Brush, $35.
Australian beauty stratosphere. Elle Macpherson, Rosie Huntington-
Whiteley, Hailey Baldwin and Victoria’s Secret model Stella Maxwell Karl Lagerfeld +
(who fronts the Karl Lagerfeld campaign) have all lent there famous ModelCo More
Brows Fibre Brow
faces to the brand.
Gel and Crayon
“There’s this cult, cool feel around Australian brands … so we’ll Duo in Light
continue to focus on our home market, but the international market is Medium, $35.
our absolute focus for the next couple of years,” she says. Just a few days
after one of the most anticipated beauty launches this year, with entire
SKUs branded with ‘sold out’ banners on Modelco.com, it would be
unlike Sullivan to put her feet up. “I don’t have time to tell myself
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E

congratulations; I’ve never actually got to a point where I’ve said: ‘I’ve
made it,’” she reflects. “I’ve had milestones along the way that have
GET T Y MAGES

been moments when I know I’m on the right path … Where do you go
gerfeld
from Karl Lagerfeld? I mean, to tick that box is huge. The phone is going Co Lip
to ring – who’s next?” ■ $20.

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VOGUE BE AUT Y

H E ALT H

A beautiful mind
What would you do for a sharper memory
or faster cognition? Jody Scott explores why
brain hacking is the latest self-improvement goal.

S houlders, legs, midriff, arms, neck, back, boobs and

… brains. Just like accessories, fashion’s erogenous
zones change with the seasons. But the latest must-
have can’t be bought or borrowed. You can’t buy a cheap
knock-off on the high street, either. In fact, it may take even
longer to attain than a Birkin bag (waitlist: approximately
six years). Welcome to the designer brain. While slow
fashion is hot, slow thinking is not. And a beautiful mind
has become the most covetable accessory of them all.
It’s a trend that has been building steadily. Christopher
Kane caught our attention in 2013 by embroidering colourful
MRI scans on silk organza tops and dresses. The same year,
Oscar-winning actor George Clooney fell in love with a
brilliant human rights lawyer called Amal Alamuddin.
And his buddy Brad Pitt is apparently smitten with Neri
Oxman, an American–Israeli architect, designer and
professor at Massachusetts Institute of Technology’s Media
Lab. On the red carpet, the most impressive arm candy
now has serious cognitive credentials.
The arrival of these brainy days heralds a welcome shift
of focus in the wellness world, too. Lately, the race to be our
best selves has become a little too brawny and back-bendy.
After all, don’t we want to be smarter as well as better,
faster and stronger? And surely being calm, compassionate
and more content are equally important markers of good
health? The recent rise of meditation and mindfulness
studios, e-courses, apps, podcasts and retreats signalled
a collective craving to go deeper, offering internal
transformation (including a thicker prefrontal cortex)
with a side serve of enlightenment – and a respite from Of course, Silicon Valley execs have been obsessed with upgrading their own
unrelenting technology. Meditation has also been shown to operating systems with smart drugs and supplements for years. Now, thanks to the
decrease volume in the amygdala region of the brain, which addictive devices and super-sticky algorithms they invented, the rest of us are also
governs our fear, anxiety and stress responses. Om to that. desperately seeking faster processing speeds, mental stamina, clarity, creativity,
But the pace of modern life is demanding more from us enhanced memory capacity, better moods, more motivation, less procrastination
than a Buddhist monk. We can’t retreat to a mountain top, and lower cortisol levels. (Meanwhile, Silicon Valley is now experimenting with
and we’re toggling screens like there is no tomorrow. mildly euphoric, micro-doses of hallucinogens, but that’s another story you can read
Hence an urge to upgrade our human software, which has about in Michael Pollan’s new book: How to Change Your Mind: What the New Science
launched a whole new category of cognitive enhancers. of Psychedelics Teaches Us About Consciousness, Dying, Addiction, Depression
Worldwide sales of brain health supplements promising and Transcendence.)
to boost our mental performance – known as nootropics – Some of the hottest nootropics are not new. Adaptogenic herbs, spices, berries,
are expected to be worth almost US$12 billion by 2024, up mushrooms, roots and resins have been used in ayurvedic and traditional Chinese
from $2.3 billion in 2015, according to Dublin-based medicine for centuries to help improve moods, aid memory, boost immunity, calm the
analysts Research and Markets. Based on these estimates, nervous system and regulate our adrenal response to stress. All of which makes it easy
it appears that millions of people are feeling overwhelmed to position common adaptogens, such as ginkgo biloba, licorice root, ashwagandha,
R AY M O N D M E I E R

right now. Interestingly, ‘noo’ comes from the Greek word rhodiola, Siberian ginseng and schizandra berry, as antidotes to our high-tech times.
for mind and ‘tropics’ means bend or turn, so it’s a good Amino acids such as l-theanine (stress-lowering) and phenylethylamine (stimulating)
name for this mindbending 21st-century trend. and neuro-protective omega-3 essential fatty acids such as DHA are also trending.

102
Expect to see these neuron-nourishing ingredients in everything from supplements
and smoothies to soups, chocolate bars and bliss balls at your local wellness hub.
Even the world’s most widely used psychoactive drug, caffeine, is getting an
upgrade via superfood-infused coffee blends that include adaptogens, mushroom
powders, collagen and essential fatty acids. Bulletproof coffee is also still going
strong with converts spiking their brews with butter, ghee, coconut oil or ‘brain
octane oil’, a medium-chain triglyceride oil made from refined coconut palm oil,
believed to improve concentration, energy and immunity and suppress appetite.
The urge to supersize our brains is also good news for the fitness industry, as
aerobic exercise has positive effects on brain structure, function and the generation
of new neurons (neurogenesis) in the hippocampus (the centre of learning and
memory). Neural-enhancing retreats and brain wellness spas are offering a more
extreme kind of mind maintenance.
At Flow Dojo Camps in the US, you can spend a week learning how to tap into the
‘flow state’ of mind enjoyed by athletes and creatives to release the feelgood
neurotransmitters dopamine, serotonin, oxytocin, norepinephrine, anandamide and
endorphins. Meanwhile at Field, a “neuro-enhancement company” in midtown
Manhattan, members can have their brains mapped and then dial up their cognition
or dial down anxiety via targeted transcranial magnetic stimulation.
If you don’t fancy prodding your brain with electrical impulses, you could get a
brain-boosting IV infusion of NAD+, derived from a naturally occurring vitamin B3
(niacin). While it’s a relatively new therapy, NAD+ is being used to treat everyone
from stressed executives to people suffering from addictions, post-traumatic stress
disorder, anxiety, depression and neurodegenerative conditions. “It’s a powerful
neurotransmitter,” says Ageless NAD+’s medical director Dr Jeremy Cumpston, who
is based in Sydney. Basically, NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is produced
naturally by our body to aid communication between cells, but our supplies
dramatically decline with age.
Rising rates of anxiety and depression, plus a healthy fear of neurodegenerative
diseases such as Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s, are looming large in our ageing
population. All the more reason to tune into our brain health.
“Increasing rates of dementia are making people aware of what happens when
your brain downgrades,” says Baroness Susan Greenfield, a British neuroscientist,
broadcaster and author. “Dementia is not a natural consequence of ageing, but it’s
a disease that occurs in older people,” she says.
According to Dementia Australia, dementia is the second leading cause of death,
and in 2016 became the leading cause of death in Australian women. In 2018, it’s
estimated there are more than 425,000
Australians living with dementia, with
numbers rising by 250 each day. Without a Rising rates
major breakthrough, these statistics are
expected to rise to more than 530,000 by 2025
of anxiety and
and almost 1,100,000 by 2056. depression, plus
Sadly, there are no medical breakthroughs on a healthy fear of
the horizon, says Professor Simon Lewis, a
specialist neurologist who specialises in
diseases such as
dementia, Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s disease Alzheimer’s and
at the University of Sydney’s Cognitive Parkinson’s, are
Neuroscience faculty. But, he says, there are
simple things we can all do to lower our risk of
looming large
dementia. These include reducing cardiovascular in our ageing
risk factors, exercising vigorously at least three population. All
times a week for 30 minutes (at a level where
you cannot hold a conversation), practising
the more reason
good sleep routines and having regular social to tune into our
interaction with others. brain health
“People with higher IQs generally fare better with
dementia, so cognitive training is probably helpful, too, for
example, [brain-training programs] BrainHQ or Lumosity,”
says Professor Lewis, who uses a rowing machine for 30 to 60
minutes most days while watching an educational podcast.
Perhaps not surprisingly, given his area of expertise,
Professor Lewis believes we need to focus less on
upgrading healthy brains and more on preventing
neurodegenerative diseases.
“How are we going to find ways (cure is a four-letter
word) to prevent the loss of function?” Professor Lewis
asks rhetorically. “A breakthrough treatment for dementia
would sure come in handy, don’t you think?”
Baroness Greenfield, who wrote a science-fiction novel,
2121: A Tale from the Next Century, about a dystopian
future where internet addiction disorder brings about the
downfall of humanity, says we need to focus less on trying
to compete with computers and more on strengthening our
human traits such as resilience and intuition.
“People confuse speed with efficiency,” Greenfield says.
“Information isn’t knowledge or wisdom. Let computers
do what computers do. And let people do what people do
best. That is, fall in love, be creative and find new ways of
joining the dots. Computers are very efficient at
information, but they don’t have intuition or common
sense, and we work with those two things all the time.”
Yet there are others in a hurry to re-wire us for the future.
“Amplifying human intelligence will be one of the largest
industries, if not the largest industry to ever emerge,” said
American technology entrepreneur Bryan Johnson in an
interview in 2016. Johnson was explaining why he spent
$100 million launching Kernel, a human intelligence
company that aims to develop the world’s first
neuroprosthesis (a tiny chip implant) to supercharge the
human brain and enhance cognition. Initially, the chip will
be implanted in the brains of people who have suffered
neurological damage caused by strokes, Alzheimer’s or
concussions. But in the long term, Johnson hopes it will
help boost intelligence, memory and other cognitive tasks
in healthy people, too.
Meanwhile, SpaceX and Tesla CEO Elon Musk latest
ambitious venture, Neuralink, aims to create brain
implants to help humans merge with software and keep up
with artificial intelligence.
In his book Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind,
Israeli historian Yuval Noah Harari ponders whether in
the future we might see a superhuman elite with enhanced
abilities that only the rich can afford.
“Throughout history, the upper classes always claimed
to be smarter, stronger and generally better than the
underclass,” he writes. “They were deluding themselves. A
baby born to a poor peasant family was likely to be as
intelligent as the crown prince. With the help of new
medical capabilities, the pretensions of the upper classes
might soon become an objective reality.”
Let’s hope that tomorrow never comes … ■
J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 0 3
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 P H OTO G R A P H : G I A M PA O LO S G U R A
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J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 0 7
loosened touch and
with a lightness, a
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07/18
Vogue

a new worldly air.

layered this season
Be beautifully

and cosy wraps all

 A.W.A.K.E jacket, $1,545.
Haider Ackermann jacket,
$3,385, jacket, worn around
waist, $2,980, and tights,
$410. Tiffany & Co. ring,
$1,800. All prices
approximate; details
at Vogue.com.au/WTB.
 Céline coat, $4,450,
tuxedo coat, worn
underneath, $8,200,
and sweater, $3,350.
Falke tights, $35.
Givenchy shoes, $1,850.
Beauty note: Maybelline
Brow Precise Fibre Filler
in Soft Brown.
G I A M PA O LO S G U R A
G I A M PA O LO S G U R A

Rick Owens parka, $12,130.

Gucci dress, $5,025.
Tiffany & Co. ring, $1,800.
Falke tights, $35.
 Jil Sander coat,
$6,265. Christian
Dior dress, $11,00,
G I A M PA O LO S G U R A

bra, $1,500, and

tights, $1,650. Tiffany
& Co. ring, $1,800.
Olivier Theyskens
boots, $1,655.
Dries Van Noten
coat, $3,285. Miu Miu
sweater, $1,150, and
dress, $4,110.
 Victoria Beckham
G I A M PA O LO S G U R A

coat, with belt,

$3,955, and top,
$4,210. Wolford
tights, $60. Micol
Ragni shoes, $1,085.
G force
For a young woman born into privilege and with the fame and fortune that’s come with extraordinary beauty, Gigi Hadid

way from New York, Gigi Hadid is looking out of the applicable for her, that there is no other way to go about it. ‘Supermodel’

A
window at her mother’s farm. It is mid-May, and after a being one. When Hadid last graced the cover of Vogue Australia three
busy winter and spring – personally and professionally – years ago, she was crowned a social media supermodel. It seems quaint
there’s change afoot. “It’s so nice to see everything green almost, to now use the qualifier ‘social media’ for Hadid, who has
again after the winter,” says Hadid over the phone. somewhat stepped back from the platform that helped her stand out in
There’s mint and lavender planted, and vegetables which the nascent days of her career. (Though, it has to be said, every model
Hadid’s mother, Yolanda, started growing last year. and celebrity worth their salt has social media accounts anyway, so
“Onions, tomatoes, cucumbers and red capsicums – a lot of things perhaps we can say that Hadid, as always, is setting a new trend.)
I regularly cook with.” They are waiting for apples, which are due in Consciously taking time-outs from social media has helped Hadid
autumn. Although she was too busy for the planting, Hadid assures me re-evaluate, too. “In December I took a vacation and didn’t go on my
she’ll be back for the harvest. “For sure. Being in nature defines me a lot.” phone for a week and just turned it off. It’s like it literally didn’t exist.
For all those bright lights and glittery Versace dresses (Hadid wore When you’re in that social media bubble it feels so heated and flammable
a Versace gown for the Met Gala and a gold mini-dress for her birthday, and then when you step away from it, it just gets lost in the clouds,” she
natch), the farm harks back to her childhood growing up says. “You can take a walk, or do something that’s so much
in California’s Santa Barbara, where she played outdoors more real than reading all of that. Sometimes it’s funny to
and rode horses. “The family farm is where I get away. My “LEARNING TO me how much energy people put into other people’s lives.”
little kitchen is my happy place. I cook almost every day
I’m here. I’ve got my Masterchef apron hanging up – it’s my
SAY NO IS A BIG When we spoke in 2015, for her previous Vogue Australia
cover interview, Hadid was effusive and, well, youthful –
little proudest moment,” she says, referring to a US
THING I’VE HAD bubbling over with excitement. We chatted on the phone
Celebrity Masterchef episode where Gordon Ramsey TO TACKLE … while she was in the car on the way to the airport, and she
awarded her the episode’s winner for her burgers. EVERYONE HAS balanced her phone all the way through to check-in and
The family farm is a reprieve from New York, where she customs. Today she speaks slowly and thoughtfully,
is followed by paparazzi, and away from her home state
TO LEARN TO relaxed at her mother’s farm – far away from any airport.
of California, which she still misses but the commute STAND UP FOR There’s this one story from Hadid’s childhood that
from the east and west coasts proved arduous in the long THEMSELVES” tells you a lot about the woman she is today: she is two
term. “A lot of my stress came from coming on and off a years old and learning to ride on a miniature pony that
plane, and I didn’t want to be doing that on my time off,” was rescued from across the street. “The miniature pony
says Hadid, who is an otherwise confident flyer. But the travel, though would throw me off every day,” she says, remembering how she
seemingly glamorous, was gruelling – travelling for work, whether to began her riding. But she was undeterred. “I saw it as a way of me
Europe for shows and campaigns or within the US, will often have one being able to get better. I think it built me into a rider who was very
in the air almost as much time as one is on the ground. “I had realised strong.” She applied this to volleyball – she was captain of her high
how much time I had spent in the air and it represented a lot of the lack school team – and her modelling, too. “I learn how to master
of control that you feel in a job where you travel all the time.” something and continue to want to master it. I’m not the greatest at
Because this is the year that Hadid is back in control. After years of modelling – obviously! But every day I wake up and try to learn
over-extending herself work-wise and otherwise, she is taking stock. something new about what I do.”
“I’ve learned a lot in the last year, just figuring out what my priorities Hadid’s beginnings and background are thoroughly documented.
are and learning how to manage my time to prioritise the things and Those in the know, fashion-wise at least, can say confidently that her
people that are important to me, because I’m hard on myself with those mother Yolanda Hadid was a model who of late has become known for
things,” she says wisely of her current outlook. “Learning to say no, her role on the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. Her father is property
I think, is a big thing I’ve had to tackle … everyone has to learn to stand developer Mohamed Hadid and her former stepfather, who was also
up for themselves at a point in their lives and in work.” As a model, she involved in raising her, is music producer David Foster; Yolanda and
is thoroughly aware of her currency and her purpose in the fashion Foster divorced in 2017. The reality TV series documented both the end
world: “Everyone knows that in the modelling industry your job is part of the marriage as well as Hadid’s burgeoning modelling career.
of the creative process in that you might have an idea of the shoot’s “I know I come from privilege, so when I started there was this big
angle, but we have no control over what we wear, the creative production guilt of privilege, obviously,” says Hadid. “I’ve always had this big
of the shoot and the creative direction.” Control over her career from work ethic, because my parents came from nothing and I worked
now on is what Hadid will be demanding. hard to honour them.” Hadid recalled how as a young model, her
There are many words and phrases that are associated with Hadid mother would send money earnt from modelling in the US to her
that have become tired with over-use, but are still so explicitly family back home in Holland. “There are so many girls who come

134
keeps it real, shunning the shallow side of celebrity, keeping her loved ones close, and her real self closer. By Zara Wong.

[from] all over the world and work their arses off and send money too thin and too big) and tweeted about the importance of more gun
home to their families like my mother did, and I wanted to stand next control in the US as well as the need for Palestinians and Israelis to
to them backstage and for them to look at me and respect me and to coexist without violence, which spurred heated responses. “Social
know that it’s never about me trying to overshadow or take their media is one of the most frustrating and twisted things … everything’s
place. So when I started out I wanted to prove myself so badly that taken and read the wrong way because tweets can never show real
sometimes I would overwork myself.” depth,” she tweeted after the furore.
Although there are many daughters-of, and girls born into financial She spoke to Vogue the day after the tweets, and was more
fortunate who dream of modelling careers, few actually reach the lofty contemplative. “There’s a tug of war between who you are and what
heights of Hadid. There is run-of-the-mill, girl-next-door pretty. The you feel naturally passionate about and wanting to stand up for
pretty that you remember from high school, but then there is that yourself, then also understanding that you can’t please everyone and
otherworldly look-twice beautiful – the attribute of inhabiting a beauty that you need to protect yourself in a way.”
that is undeniable and to many, undefinable. Input the scientific Despite her extensive ties to reality TV, growing up with the
standards of beauty: large eyes, high cheekbones, a symmetrical face Kardashian-Jenners and with half-sisters Sara and Erin Foster, who
and blonde hair (which even the ancient Greeks would succumb to with have their own scripted show, Barely Famous, public attention only came
dyes) and more – and out will pop Gigi Hadid. But Hadid won’t be to Hadid following her mother’s role on Real Housewives during the
talking about her own beauty. Obviously. She’s too focused on self- early stages of her modelling career.
improvement for that. “You know that people say I shouldn’t be on the Attention of the level she’s now exposed to is relatively new, with
runway? I’ve got a lot better at dealing with that and wanting to better Hadid appearing on magazine covers and in music videos with former
myself.” She pauses. “That’s my motivation.” paramours, who, incidentally, are all singers, like Zayn Malik (they
And beauty, as we are correctly reminded, is bestowed broke up earlier this year), Joe Jonas and Australian Cody
but not earnt, though if she could, Hadid would be Simpson, and photo shoots with her siblings, fellow
getting bonus points for the way she is so intensely “YOU KNOW supermodel Bella Hadid and younger brother Anwar.
committed to making the most of it anyway for her THAT PEOPLE “There is no handbook for being in the spotlight,” she
modelling career. She has obsessed with the minutiae of says ruefully.
modelling and how to improve how she appears on
SAY I SHOULDN’T Hadid and Malik confirmed their break-up via
camera, and is at ease talking about adding more. “Now BE ON THE co-ordinated social media posts. A week later, she
I can see an image and know where I can enhance the RUNWAY? I’VE tweeted: “Can’t believe that in 2018 the press can still
photo rather than just be in it,” she says. “And being on make up and print false stories … but more sad that
set, it’s interesting to see the different ways people work,
GOT A LOT people still continue to believe that trash. Click-bait and
and trying to crack their personalities.” In an earlier BETTER AT headlines are made to create drama where there is none
episode of the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, Yolanda DEALING when outlets have nothing else to write about.”
congratulates Hadid on a recent shoot. She is reticent Aware of the nature of celebrity, she is resigned that
about receiving the praise, reminding her mother of
WITH THAT” although people may think they know what she really is
how much more she needs to do. Her competitive streak like, what they see are only the briefest glimpses,
is less to do with other people than herself. a glimmer of the real Gigi Hadid. “I feel misunderstood in a lot of ways.
“Perfectionism can be a good thing, but it always comes with a level I’ve tried for the length of my career to show who I am and what’s
of pain too, right?” she says sagely. I realise she’s referring to her own important to me but I’m trying to remember that I can’t meet everyone
pursuit of perfection, but on the flip side, her comment could also and prove myself to everyone, so therefore I have to accept that there are
relate to her own physical perfection. Perfection does come with a going to be misunderstandings.”
level of pain. There must be a burden in being upheld as both She is beautiful, sure – you can’t avoid saying that, as clichéd as it is,
beautiful and privileged. “No-one wakes up feeling like woman of but she is also a nature girl, who loves to cook and ride horses, who
the year,” Hadid told Jimmy Fallon on his talk show last year. And wants to see her mum, who shies away from celebrity, who misses the
although she made the comment with a note of jest, that in itself discussions she had in university, who loves painting and playing
reveals its own truth. volleyball. And more, we’re sure, but she’s not letting up just yet – a
What makes Hadid stand out from the rest of those who are just form of protection, perhaps. “Until you really get to know me, the thing
beautiful, though, is her taking a stand, and her fearlessness in doing is you just don’t know,” she says. And with that, our time is up. She’ll
so. While chatting to her fans (who call themselves #GiForce) on thank me using my name politely yet with a gentle firmness. Because
Twitter, she has called out false headlines, hit back at people who she wants to go back to the garden, to ride the horses, and to the kitchen,
criticised her body (she has been outrageously critiqued both for being where she’ll put on her apron. And she’ll switch her phone off. ■

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 3 5
 Miu Miu coat, $5,650.
Cadolle bra, $475, worn
throughout. Petit
Bateau briefs, $79 for a
set of three. Stylist’s
own white briefs, worn
underneath. Birkenstock
shoes, $120, worn
throughout. All prices
approximate; details at
Vogue.com.au/WTB.

136
 Youth
Packing new adventures for winter escapism, blur the rules of day and night,
a cocktail dress on a bike, an oversized knit with a bikini: easy, don’t overthink it.
Pack for a love story. Styled by Margherita Moro. Photographed by Ben Weller.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 3 7
 Louis Vuitton dress,
P.O.A. 3.1 Phillip Lim
necklace, P.O.A.

BEN WELLER

138
Kit wears Marni
pants, $1,029. Stylist’s
own boxers, worn
throughout. Louise
wears a John Galliano
dress, $15,210. Loewe
cardigan, $2,150.
 Kit wears a Dolce &
Gabbana cardigan, P.O.A.
Moncler pants, $780.
BEN WELLER

Louise wears a Valentino

dress, $7,500. 3.1 Phillip
Lim necklace, P.O.A.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 4 1
 Kit wears a Marni vest,
$1,350, and pants, $1,029.
Brooks Brothers shirt, $169.
Givenchy bag, P.O.A. Louise
wears an Iro sweater, $1,640.
BEN WELLER

Chanel skirt, $7,230, from

the Chanel boutiques. 3.1
Phillip Lim necklace, P.O.A.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 4 3
 BEN WELLER

Attico dress, $920,

and jeans, $415.

144
BEN WELLER
Paco Rabanne
jacket, $1,280,
sweater, $1,005,
and jeans, $545.
Fragrance: Chloé
Nomade EDP.
148
BEN WELLER
150
BEN WELLER
 Christian Dior sweater,
$5,700, and skirt, $4,600.
BEN WELLER

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 5 3
 t was a bright December morning in Edinburgh and Leeanne Hundleby was enjoying

The
I
a day off from Strathberry, the small Scottish bag brand she runs with her husband,
Guy. Then the phone rang. “You’d better come in,” said Guy, calling from the office.

Meghan “We think Meghan’s wearing one of our bags.” It was their A$870 midi-tote tricolour in
green, and Meghan was, of course, the newly engaged royal-to-be out on her first
public engagement with Prince Harry.

markle What followed was a fashion frenzy. The brand, which sells directly to customers on
its website, experienced a 5,000 per cent sales bump. Eleven minutes after Markle stepped

effect out with the bag, it had sold out. “It was the craziest day we’ve ever had,” says Hundleby.
Each time stocks were replenished, the bags were snapped up, often shipping to territories
such as Japan and Germany, where the brand had previously made little impact. “People
The Meghan Markle bought all the colourways and then moved on to the smaller size. By Christmas we had
fairytale involves virtually nothing to offer. Everything was sold out.”
a humble background, a World, meet Meghan Markle, the oxytocin of fashion. The newly crowned Duchess of
handsome prince and Sussex has dressed her way into our hearts with a wardrobe so feelgood and infused with
a wardrobe so relatable realness that resistance is futile. On the day her engagement to Prince Harry was announced,
it could add £1 billion Megan stood in the garden at Kensington Palace, petite, despite her nude Aquazzura heels,
to the British (and the wide belt on her white coat accentuating her tiny waist as she flashed her dazzling
Commonwealth) fashion engagement ring and uttered the words “So happy!” to the world’s press. Indeed, it was
a joyous moment. Not only did she seem intent on rewriting the princess dress code (what,
economies. Claudia
no tights?), but the way she presented herself chimed with modern womanhood. From the
Croft reports on the
self-assured sway of her hips as she strode out to have her picture taken, to her blow-dry,
new Duchess of Sussex,
which was as buoyant as the mood of the nation that day, it was clear the actress and
who has dressed her women’s rights activist was bringing something 21st century to the role of royal bride.
way into our hearts. “She’s a woman of the times,” says her friend, designer Roland Mouret, who Markle has
Artwork by Peter Blake. relied upon for sleek cocktail looks and lean tailoring, and whose signature fitted
midnight-blue dress she wore with grey suede Manolo Blahnik stilettos when she arrived
at Cliveden House on the eve of her wedding (it was her last public outing before
becoming a Duchess). Not just a former actress, he says, “she’s a businesswoman, and
she’s very straightforward”. Antonio Berardi is impressed too, recalling the day she
visited his studio in the January of 2017, 10 months before her engagement announcement.
“She was incredibly respectful, kind and human. Afterwards she sent me a handwritten
note thanking me for making her a cup of tea.” During the appointment, Markle zeroed
in on a blue sleeveless midi-dress, which she wore a few weeks later to watch Prince
Harry play polo. “She asked if she could try it on with a pair of shoes, but we only had
thigh boots,” recalls the designer. The boots amused the future royal no end. “She said:
‘As much as I love them, people would ask why I was wearing those boots. I couldn’t.’”
Markle may telegraph a sense of ease and effortlessness, but as an emerging fashion
star she has become keenly aware of the clothes she wears and the messages they send.
A few good coats, mid-priced bags, flattering pencil dresses, Aquazzura and Manolo
spikes (who doesn’t covet those?), a sell-out ‘husband’ shirt and a variety of skinny jeans
(definitely not over). It’s a formula that never falters.
In the few months before her wedding, there were tantalising flashes of personality as
well, in the way she loads her fingers with inexpensive gold stacking rings or decides to
wear high street for important occasions. For example, most people, when faced with the
prospect of Christmas with the Queen, would feel intimidated into panic-buying
a Burberry coat-dress from the designer rail in Harrods. Instead, Markle spent her first
Yuletide at Sandringham in a favourite A$400 velvet Club Monaco number.
Her most fashion-forward ensemble to date was a sharp Alexander McQueen tuxedo,
with a bodysuit blouse and Jimmy Choo heels, which she wore instead of a conventional
gown to an awards ceremony in February. The result was pleasingly modern as opposed ¤

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 A D D I T I O N A L R E P O RT I N G : S O P H I E T E D M A N S O N

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 5 5
to shockingly outré. She has been busy making powerful international
fashion allies, too. Michael Kors can’t praise her enough. “I think she
knows herself, and she’s figured out a look or a uniform that works for her
in her new role,” he tells Vogue. “Her style is laid-back with an air of simple
sophistication. She definitely brings a modern attitude to royal style. She
knows what looks right on her and what works in different situations,
which is more than half the battle!”
Diane von Furstenberg isn’t in the least surprised by Markle’s mass
appeal. “What impresses me about Meghan Markle is her enormous
natural confidence,” says the designer and philanthropist. “She is
strong, assertive, intelligent and compassionate. I love her personality
and openness. I love the fact she can wear her favourite dress many
times as she feels great in it … especially when it’s DVF!”
Her ability to cause items to sell out is repeated with
almost any brand she’s seen in. The Meghan effect works MARKLE’S
across all price points. The A$80 Marks & Spencer jumper
she wore to visit a Brixton radio station sold out within
CLOTHES DON’T
hours, while Net-A-Porter saw a 600 per cent increase in DISTRACT
sales for Jason Wu after she wore his A$2,500 navy dress FROM HER
in February. Impacting on fashion sales, of course, is not
new to the Royal Family. In 2012, Newsweek estimated that
PERSONALITY:
the Duchess of Cambridge’s ability to move product was INSTEAD THEY
worth £1 billion to the British fashion industry. Yet AMPLIFY IT
Meghan Markle could top that. Brand Finance, a business
valuation and strategy consultancy, estimates that
Markle’s marriage into royalty will add about £500 million to the UK
fashion economy this year, but could go on to top £1 billion because of
her huge appeal in America.
Is this where her magic lies? It’s safe to say her breezy North American
vibe, which includes repeat appearances from Ralph Lauren, J.Crew
and a slew of smaller Canadian brands she discovered when filming
her hit TV show Suits in Montreal, is much more international than
previous royal girlfriends, who have tended to come from a small,
Sloaney gene pool and the same Chelsea postcode. Markle’s signature
“blend of casual and polished is very American’’, says Kors.
As with her wedding dress details, which featured flowers from the 53
countries of the Commonwealth stitched into her veil, Markle knows that
as the Duchess of Sussex and wife of Prince Harry, she now represents
many nations, and appears to be supporting Commonwealth fashion
2007 2013 3
2013 2013 2014
FROM STARLET TO DUCHESS Since she became engaged to Prince Harry, Meghan Markle's fashion has shifted from her red carpet acting days.
156
industries with her sartorial choices. This includes Australia: when
Markle attended the Commonwealth Youth Forum in London in April
she wore not one but two Australian designers: a black double-breasted
Marguerite blazer from Camilla and Marc, which retails for $699, and the
$295 Oroton Avalon stripe crossbody bag, as well as jewellery by Sydney
designer Natalie Marie, who Markle had once contacted on Instagram.
And that was after the images of Markle wearing a gown by Australian-
British label Ralph & Russo for her official engagement photos sent into
overdrive the rumour mill on whether they would also design her
wedding dress (they didn’t, as we now know she chose Givenchy).
Of seeing Markle wearing Camilla and Marc’s signature blazer,
designer Camilla Freeman-Topper says: “It’s beautiful to see Meghan in
our tailoring. Her style is sophisticated and elegant and
she epitomises the Camilla and Marc woman.”
Ross Lane, CEO of Oroton, said the bag “was chosen and
acquired by Ms Markle independently, so the news came as
a delightful surprise to myself and our teams. As is the case
with the so-called ‘Markle effect’, the handbag immediately
sold out online and is close to selling out in-store, and has
had a flow-on effect across sales of other styles.
Interestingly, 75 per cent of these online sales were to the
US and the UK.”
Jewellery designer Natalie Fitch of Natalie Marie said of
Markle: “It’s invaluable to have someone who truly loves
and supports the brand wearing our pieces, as this
translates very honestly and authentically to our collective following.”
What is so remarkable about Markle’s style is its consistency. Not for
her the awkward missteps of Diana, Princess of Wales, towards a look
that finally worked. Married at 19, Diana did much of her fashion
growing up in public. It helps that, at 36, Markle makes her entrance as
a proper grown-up, old enough to know what works and confident
enough to have developed her signature look. And she’s had smart
advice too, taking styling tips from her close friend Jessica Mulroney.
The pair met in 2011, when Markle began filming on Suits. Mulroney
also styles Sophie Trudeau, wife of the Canadian prime minister Justin
Trudeau, and is well versed in the art of diplomatic dressing.
In fact, behind the scenes Markle is making a great deal of effort to get
her royal look right. Since the announcement of her engagement, the axis
of her wardrobe has pivoted. Coats by Burberry and Stella McCartney,
2015 2016 2016 2 16
2016
 knits from Victoria Beckham and Mulberry bags are all outward signs of
her commitment to her new role at the centre of British life. The British
Fashion Council has played its part, too. They put Kensington Palace in
touch with the Welsh brand Hiut Denim. “We got a phone call and sent
some things to the palace in January. We didn’t know it was for her,” says
David Hieatt from his Cardigan studio. When she subsequently wore a
pair of his black Dina jeans underneath a Stella McCartney coat on a day
trip to Cardiff, within minutes he was receiving messages from press
organisations around the world. “We’d spent all our marketing budget
on a coffee machine,” he says, laughing. Now, “there are six people who
have new jobs because of her wearing our jeans”.
Just by getting dressed, Markle brings jobs, prosperity, a sense of
inclusion and a bit of joy. “She’s making an interesting transition from the
red-carpet world to the purple-carpet world,” says Simon Doonan,
a British author and creative ambassador-at-large for Barneys New York.
The two big differences are longer hemlines (will we ever see her knees
again?) and the necessity of hats. “She’s never worn hats,” explains
Doonan. “They’re not a big thing in the White House, and American
actresses are very concerned with their hair.”
Markle once said her dream wedding gown was the devastatingly
simple bias-cut slip that Narciso Rodriguez designed for Carolyn Bessette-
Kennedy in 1996. However, for her nuptials to Prince Harry in May, she
went much more traditional, opting for a Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy
haute couture dress with graphic open bateau neckline and modern,
three-quarter sleeves, made with sculptural double-bonded silk cady,
accessorising with Queen Mary’s Filigree tiara, and the aforementioned
five-metre long silk tulle embroidered veil. For the reception, Markle
debuted a stunning high-neck lily-white Stella McCartney gown in silk
crepe, pairing it with bespoke Aquazzura heels.
On selecting her wedding dress designer, Kensington Palace said: “After
meeting Ms Waight Keller in early 2018, Ms Markle chose to work with her
for her timeless and elegant aesthetic, impeccable tailoring, and relaxed
demeanour. Ms Markle also wanted to highlight the success of a leading
British talent who has now served as the creative head of three globally
influential fashion houses – Pringle of Scotland, Chloé and now Givenchy.
Ms Markle and Ms Waight Keller worked closely together on the design.
The dress epitomises a timeless minimal elegance referencing the codes of
the iconic house of Givenchy and showcasing the expert craftsmanship
of its world-renowned Parisian couture atelier.”
2017 2017 2017 2018
GET T Y IMAGES
Now, she wears more demure styles and often supports Commonwealth designers including (third image from right) Australian labels Camilla and Marc, Oroton and Natalie Marie.
Waight Keller, who last year became the first female artistic director
at the historic French house, told the Business of Fashion: “We wanted to
create a timeless piece that would emphasise the iconic codes of
Givenchy throughout its history, as well as convey modernity through
sleek lines and sharp cuts. In contrast, the delicate floral beauty of the
veil was a vision Meghan and I shared, a special gesture embracing the
Commonwealth flora, ascending the circumference of the silk tulle. It
is truly an honour to have been given the opportunity to closely
collaborate with Meghan Markle on such a remarkable occasion.”
Stella McCartney was also “honoured” to have been selected, telling
Entertainment Tonight: “I’m so proud and honoured to have been chosen
by the Duchess of Sussex to make her evening gown and represent British
design. [It has] been one of the most humbling moments of my career and
I am so proud of all the team on this stunning royal day.”
For Markle’s first official engagement as a Duchess – a garden party at
Buckingham Palace for the Prince of Wales’s 70th Birthday Patronage
Celebration two days after the royal wedding – she wore a blush-pink
dress from Goat (which, of course, immediately sold out), a fascinator
from Philip Treacy and diamond jewellery. She also donned the
required nude pantyhose.
The nuances of royal dressing are complex. There is an expectation to
always look smart and appropriate, but royals should never appear self-
indulgent – and beware looking too chic. The Queen’s couturier Hardy
Amies once said of Her Majesty’s style: “I don’t think she feels chic
clothes are friendly. There’s always something cold and cruel about chic
clothes, which she wants to avoid.”
So far, Markle has managed to steer clear of the cruel side of chic and
with it any comparisons to another American divorcee who married
into the Royal Family. The Duchess of Windsor was lauded for her
impeccable ensembles, but never taken to heart by the public.
Markle need not worry about having the same fate. The January day
she visited Cardiff, the BBC asked the hundreds of admirers lining the
streets why they liked her so much: “beautiful”, “graceful”, “flawless”
and “heart of gold” came the responses. “She seems normal.” No-one
even mentioned her clothes. Perhaps this is Markle’s greatest triumph
of all. Despite a frenzy of interest in every item she wears, Markle’s
clothes don’t distract from her personality: instead they amplify it. We
see the Burberry coats, Amanda Wakeley dresses and Stephen Jones
hats, but most clearly of all we see the woman. ■
2018 2018 2018 2018 2018
J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 5 7
 À la
mode In our fast
world, the
trend cycle
is also in
high gear,
with
influencers
driving
what’s in
vogue and
ephemeral
trends dying
before a
season is
even over.
By Sebastian
Kaufmann.

158
 hose cargo pants of spring/summer ’02 Balenciaga by Nicolas
T
Ghesquière were a turning point. For the women of 15 years
ago, they marked the before and after in her wardrobe. It was
the 10th anniversary of the Gulf War that inspired the French
designer to release the Desert Storm-themed staple, but the
novelty factor came in the styling: the cargo was not to be
worn like a trooper in Iraq but instead with stiletto heels and
the skimpiest patchwork top. Black Hawk Down, the Ridley Scott film,
premiered the same month the Balenciaga collection hit the stores,
sending a clear message: the look was in the Zeitgeist and it was there
to stay. Two seasons later, the cargo sparked record sales for Gap and to
this day, it remains a constant in any contemporary closet. And this, in
a nutshell, is how trends happened in early noughties fashion.
Infinite variations of Balenciaga’s ‘pantashoes’ by Demna Gvasalia took
just weeks after appearing on the spring/summer ’17 runways to hit
Zara, H&M and countless other brands around the world. But said boots
seemed to have evaporated into thin air by the end of this
year. So what has changed in the past 15 years besides the
vastest, fastest generation of information in the history of
mankind? Not much, it seems.
“IT’S NOT
To understand the rise and fall of a trend, forecasting A TYPE OF
organisation WGSN lays out a curve: born out of a fistful FABRIC OR A
of innovators, it peaks at the hands of influencers and
crystallises at mass consumption. It’s not the dynamics
COLOUR THAT
of this curve that have changed but its speed. According to TRIGGERS
Bibiana Mesa, head of marketing for WGSN: “Innovators are CONSUMPTION
creatives who don’t necessarily have anything to sell. While
they don’t have so many followers, they really capture the
ANYMORE BUT
essence of their time. It’s influencers, the stars of Instagram, A BRAND’S
who drive trends forward.” Once mass consumers take on a ESSENCE”
trend, the curve begins its descent and, with it, comes large-
scale success. “At Zara we understand trends as a global
phenomenon,” says Mercedes Domecq, communications director for
the Spanish giant. “The feedback we get from clients around the world
is our main source of information in order to pinpoint the latest trends.”
Marina Larroudé, fashion director at American department store
Barneys, says that trends help clients plan what to buy every season.
According to Larroudé, trends can be born on the catwalk just as they
can come from social media, a music video, or the Hadid sisters. “But
they are only relevant if you connect the dots,” she clarifies. “We’ll
invest in glitter boots as long as we spot them in at least three shows.”
Six months go by from the moment Larroudé sees the collections and
the day her edit reaches the store. Yet it took Rihanna less than 24 hours
to wear (and Instagram) the white fur boots that were shown on the
Saint Laurent runway the previous day. Two-and-a-half million likes
and several months later, are these boots still on trend?
“Some trends last a year or two – usually a product such as a pair of
shoes or a specific blouse – while others can run for four years or more,”
says Larroudé. She points to Céline as an example: the now-departed
Phoebe Philo’s legacy of purist design has shaped a core silhouette for
the 2010s. Mesa explains that trends that stay through the decades owe
their longevity to “hibernation periods”, as she calls them. White kitten
heels, a key style for the coming months according to WGSN, have
survived in ebbs and flows since they were made popular by Audrey
Hepburn in the early 1960s.
Today, trends are increasingly associated to a brand´s vision rather
S TA S M AY
than to a specific piece or look. “It’s not a type of fabric or a colour that
triggers consumption anymore but a brand’s essence and how it’s
imprinted on its target audience,” states Fabio Ciquera, an academic in
London specialising in luxury management. Last year’s unexpected
collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Supreme, argues Ciquera,
goes above and beyond the luxe sportswear fad. More than the
juxtaposition of street and runway, it’s the joint vision of two super
brands that sets a mood. “Brands that rely on product trends risk dying
a slow death,” he adds.
Instagram is the great trends catalyst of now and anyone with access to
a smartphone can spark a trend. “Trends play the same role as before:
to present the public with an aesthetic experience that seduces and
satisfies,” says Calu Rivero, a New York-based actress and influencer.
“The digital age’s novelty is that it has multiplied these possibilities,
giving visibility to so much that had been hidden until now.” Likewise,
Instagram has granted free access to anyone chasing after information.
According to a report published by Instagram last October, the global
luxury shopper consumes at least five times more content than the
average user, with 50 per cent of luxury consumers using
the social media platform to stay tuned in with fashion’s
dernier cri.
The rarefied realm of haute couture was the sole source
of trends up until the 1970s. Editors travelled to Paris to
cover the latest offerings of the Chambre Syndicale de la
Haute Couture, where all images were embargoed until
after clients had put in their orders. This set a rigid pecking
order in terms of trend setting. Pamela Golbin, chief
fashion curator of Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris, says that
“before social media, all brands followed the same format.
Social media has changed the distribution of information
as much as it has changed the audience. This has allowed
for the crystallisation of very specific trends, also known
as microtrends.”
Barbara Martelo, a stylist and consultant for Saint
Laurent, takes the argument further: “We now live in a world of
microtrends. With this new throwaway culture, trends are so ephemeral
that sometimes they don’t even last a whole season.” Although Martelo
questions the fashion show’s current relevance in a schedule packed
with collections and pre-collections, the runway still provides vital
information. What has evolved so acutely, though, is the format and
speed of information spawned on the catwalk. The spring/summer ’18
collections saw 64 million people generate a total 387 million likes,
comments, stories and posts. Alex de Betak, known for spearheading
trends on the shows that he produces, told CNN that “we had to adjust
after Instagram released the 15-second videos on Instagram Stories. So
the challenge became to create moments that could be filmed and
shared in exactly 15 seconds.”
There’s no looking back in the digital world but, according to Barbara
Martelo, “we are beginning to look for a break, a respite of sorts. It’s
back to basics now.” She adds that the mission is to generate loyalty
among millennials while taking a step back in terms of information and
collections. “Designers don’t want to present pre-fall and resort. There’s
no time to research, investigate, travel, be inspired.” Pamela Golbin
argues that the digital sphere exists to show creation can only happen
in the material world: “Designers are still the real source of creativity,
not Instagram. They will remain relevant for a long time because they
create realities in real life. That is the real source of trends.” So even
when 800 million users share 95 million images every day, it’s the
tangible reality of a pair of white, kitten-heeled shoes that will satiate
our wardrobes each season. ■
J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 5 9
 Blessed
Playing a cruel barren wife on The Handmaid’s Tale hasn’t been easy
for Yvonne Strahovski. The newly pregnant star reflects on her
“harrowing” role and bringing her own baby into the world. By Jane
Albert. Styled by Philippa Moroney. Photographed by Jake Terrey.
erena Joy Waterford may be a fictional character – and a cold-hearted, brutal, vengeful

S
one at that – but so believable is Australian actress Yvonne Strahovski in portraying her
and her infertile state in The Handmaid’s Tale that when Strahovski tells me she’s
pregnant, it’s hard not to shout “Praise be!” The breakout star of the Hulu original
series is delighting in discussing her hitherto closely guarded secret, giving her first
interview to Vogue Australia since announcing on Instagram in mid-May that she and
her husband, actor Tim Loden, were expecting their first child.
“I’ve been dying to talk about it,” Strahovski enthuses, before confiding the concerns she had
for her unborn baby during the recent shooting of season two of The Handmaid’s Tale, given the
unrelenting sadism and seething hatred that drives Serena Joy.
The Sydney-born, Los Angeles-based actress is in Melbourne shooting Angel of Mine, Luke
Davies’s adaptation of the 2008 French film L’Empreinte de L’Ange, directed by Strangerland’s
Kim Farrant and starring The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’s Noomi Rapace. It’s three years since
Strahovski has been in Australia, and many more since she made an Australian film.
It often surprises fans of the cult TV series The Handmaid’s Tale to learn Strahovski is
Australian, so convincing is her American accent. The only child of Polish immigrants, Strahovski
grew up in Maroubra, Sydney, a studious child obsessed with dancing, acting and the outdoors.
She honed her craft at the University of Western Sydney before landing roles in local television
dramas, including Double the Fist in 2004 and headLand a year later. She decided to try her hand
in LA, auditioning for the role of Sarah Walker in Chuck three days after arriving. She planned
to stay a couple of months and now calls it home, 11 years later. The Emmy Award-winning series
Chuck ultimately ran for five years and Strahovski has played a host of strong, complex characters
ever since: serial killer Hannah McKay on the TV series Dexter, Rene Carpenter in The Astronaut
Wives Club and Emma on the upcoming film The Predator, among many others.
Still, there will be audiences worldwide who have only come to know Strahovski through The
Handmaid’s Tale, creator Bruce Miller’s 2017 adaptation of Margaret Atwood’s bestselling 1985
novel set in a dystopian future that sees America overtaken by a fundamentalist regime, the few
remaining fertile women forced into sexual servitude to bear children for the Commanders of the
Faithful. Starring Elisabeth Moss as Offred, a handmaid determined to fight back against her
commander (Joseph Fiennes) and his barren wife (Strahovski), series one earnt eight Emmys and
two Golden Globes and captivated television viewers worldwide, airing as it did in a post-Trump
America that made Atwood’s depiction of new land Gilead seem frighteningly plausible.
Strahovski hadn’t read Atwood’s novel but was so captivated by the character of Serena Joy and
the story laid out in the pilot that she signed on immediately. “I found her quite mesmerising,
because I didn’t have all the answers to her and didn’t have her backstory [back then],” Strahovski
explains. “So, to me, all that loneliness, bitterness and emotional instability were the first things
I noticed about this character, and I loved the complexity of her and the rest of the characters.”
Fiennes has spoken candidly about the difficulty he has in portraying the violence his character
commits against Offred each month during the so-called ‘ceremony’ in which he effectively rapes
his handmaid in a bid to get her pregnant, while his wife watches on. Strahovski says there ¤

160
 Ellery coat, $5,995,
and brooch, $375.
MaxMara dress,
$2,500. Miu Miu
boots, $1,490, worn
throughout. All prices
approximate; details at
Vogue.com.au/WTB.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 6 1
 JAKE TERREY

Jil Sander coat,

$8,760. Salvatore
Ferragamo dress,
$2,790.
Hermès jacket,
$10,065, and
scarf, $1,855.
 who chose to marry her partner in a quiet
ceremony in Paso Robles, California, on a day
that proved so hot the couple jumped into a
nearby lake fully clothed to cool off; a woman
who prefers her simple, elegant wedding band
to the customary bling. And instead of flying
directly to Toronto to begin shooting
Handmaid’s season two, the couple threw a
few clothes and their beloved dogs into the
car and drove across America, making regular
camping stops to go fly-fishing and hike the
national parks along the way in Idaho,
Wyoming and Montana.
“It’s something I’m very committed to in my
life; it’ll always be a love of mine,” she says.
“Just getting out, getting on the road and
doing whatever I want, with no plans. It’ll be
interesting to see how that goes [post-baby],”
she adds with a laugh.
For the time being, she’s enjoying the 10- or
11-hour shoot days in and around Melbourne
on Angel of Mine, a relative luxury compared
with the unregulated shooting hours in the
US and Canada. A psychological thriller,
the film continues the motherhood themes for
Strahovski, depicting the story of a woman’s
descent into madness following the death of
her daughter and her subsequent belief that
another woman’s child is, in fact, her own.
Strahovski is using an Australian accent for
the first time in many years, something that
leaves her feeling a little uncomfortable, given
how naturally she now speaks in her adopted
Miu Miu coat, homeland’s accent. “It does help being here in
$4,680. Lee
Mathews spotted Melbourne and surrounded by an Australian
dress, $379, and crew and having friends here in Melbourne
black dress, $749. who are keeping it real for me and my weird,
mashy accent,” she says. Neither Serena Joy
nor Angel’s Claire is meant to be pregnant, so
is a conscious effort to keep the set light-hearted, but there is no escaping the violence. “We’re hiding the fact has been an interesting exercise.
faced with these incredibly demanding, horrible themes and scenes … it’s really about being in Her next project is season three of The
the moment. Between ‘action’ and ‘cut’, you just have to go there.” Handmaid’s Tale and Strahovski says she’s
There is no let-up in series two, a departure from Atwood’s book, although “the divine Margaret intrigued to see where it goes, as it too will
Atwood” (as Strahovski calls her) has remained on board as a consultant. “I’ve found it’s been have moved beyond Atwood’s storyline.
a little bit more harrowing, actually,” she explains. “There have been some moments when I’ve “I know there are a couple of ideas on the table
even noticed crew members audibly uncomfortable while we’ve been in a half-arsed rehearsal, just by talking to Bruce Miller, but we’re now
not even doing it properly. We’re really pushing it, and you can feel it on set. It’s definitely a show in brand-new territory,” she reveals.
where we throw it out there and it’s confronting, and it’s meant to be confronting.” Before that begins, however, she’ll be
Possibly most confronting is the fact that present-day America has proved closer to Atwood’s returning home to LA for a well-earnt rest and
Gilead than she could have considered, a world in which movie moguls and politicians alike have some nesting ahead of the birth of her baby,
allegedly committed acts of sexual misconduct, albeit a world in which women are finding their which coincides with filming recommencing
voice and fighting back. How does Strahovski feel about bringing a new life into this world? “It’s on Handmaid’s. “I’m due for a break,” she says.
a good question,” she ponders. “It’s a little scary. I do have to have faith that things will start “It’s been a little bit nonstop, and as my
changing, given that new voices are being raised and heard [through] the women’s march or the pregnancy carries on, I probably should take a
Florida kids’ gun rally. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t concerned, but I also have faith in the people break and buy a crib and do those baby things.
JAKE TERREY

I surround myself with and the ideals I have. We just have to keep moving forward.” I’ve got to go home and focus on my peanut.”
Strahovski has her own remedies for escaping the madness and spends as much time as she can The Handmaid’s Tale can be viewed on SBS On
outdoors. In fact, much of her life is spent away from the red carpet glamour. Here’s a woman Demand. Angel of Mine has no release date yet.

164
“IT’S DEFINITELY
A SHOW WHERE
WE THROW IT
OUT THERE
AND IT’S
CONFRONTING”

Christopher Kane
dress, $2,849.
 3.1 Phillip Lim
sweater, $805,
and dress, $1,165.

JAKE TERREY
Salvatore Ferragamo
coat, P.O.A.
Balenciaga dress,
$3,755, from
Parlour X.
Hair: Koh
Make-up: Peter Beard
VOGUE PROMOTION
 VOGUE SOIR ÉE
1. 2.

3.
SOCIAL

7.

4.

6.

5.
G AV I N B O N D I N S TA G R A M . CO M / K Y L I E M I N O G U E

1. Kylie Minogue in her fabulous gold gown. 2. Greeting her long-time friend Natalie Imbruglia. 3. Rick Astley performs at the celebration. 4. Minogue and her new beau
Paul Solomons. 5. A group hug with girlfriends. 6. Kathy Lette (far left) and Salman Rushdie (right). 7. The star with Guy Pearce (left) and Jason Donovan.

J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 6 9
VOGUE SOIR ÉE
1. 2. 3.

SOCIAL

4.

7.

Delosa to the stage to chat about what it means to be a successful,

productive gentleman in the current social climate.

McEvoy and Dylan Alcott. After dinner by Shannon Bennett, an after

6. 5.

K A R O N P H OTO G R A P H Y

1. Teresa Palmer and her husband Mark Webber. 2. Client Liaison’s Monte Morgan (left) and Harvey Miller. 3. From left: Zack Alcott, Dylan Alcott and Emma Franklin.
4. Jarrod Scott. 5. From left: GQ Australia editor Mike Christensen, Vogue Australia editor in chief Edwina McCann and News Prestige Network publisher Nicholas Gray.
6. The event’s discussion panel, from left, Hamish Macdonald, Mack Horton, Jack Delosa, Lukas Vincent and Andy Ridley. 7. Mary Poulakis and her son Ross Poulakis.

170
 Leo
23 JULY – 23 AUGUST
You could feel a little mixed
up this month. Double-check
everything you do, say, Insta or
text, and be sure to check your
travel plans to avoid delays. A
close work or love partnership
could benefit from renegotiation
now, and the clarity this brings
spills over into a sense of freedom
that hits you where you live.
STYLE ICON: Meghan Markle
Scorpio
24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER
Backtracking with a career
agenda will get you further
now than powering ahead, and
opportunities with overseas links
or in media could tempt you.
Home life is more low-key, but
you’re on fire after a slump, so
watch out world! For love, look
to friendships for a suitor or to
fan the flames of a LTR.
STYLE ICON: Katy Perry
Aquarius
21 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY
Revitalising your wellbeing
routine now could bring you the
results you’ve only dreamed
of before. Relationships benefit
from a health check now too, to
make sure you’re on the same
page before making any joint
financial commitments. And
after a recent slump your
career is set to soar again.
STYLE ICON: Amal Clooney
Taurus
21 APRIL – 21 MAY
Unexpected experiences now may
be a shock to your system, but
embrace them all until you’re
at ease with the idea of change.
Rethinking your living situation
A S T R O LO G E R : S T E L L A N O VA
goes with this territory, and the
results could alter your perception
of your career too. Love, however,
gets back into a healthier and
happier groove.
STYLE ICON: Behati Prinsloo
Virgo
24 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER
What you thought you wanted
might turn out to be something
else you hadn’t even considered
this month. Launch plans anyway,
as it’s your best time to start
something new, but get as much
information as you can. How
you nurture yourself also needs
a fresh approach, but romance
or flying solo all feels easy now.
STYLE ICON: Blake Lively
Sagittarius
23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER
A desire to branch out on your
own, escape with a lover or get
a taste of fame is strong now.
Getting your home and finances
in order is essential this month
to give you a secure jumping off
point for your wilder dreams.
With a little self-belief you can
do it, but devotion to your career
will help you get there sooner.
STYLE ICON: Zoë Kravitz
Pisces
19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH
A romantic surprise, a creative
breakthrough, a lucky win or
unexpected baby news could
arrive this month. Get yourself
ready to handle all the love that’s
coming your way by restarting
your self-care routines. After a
spell under the radar, old ways
of thinking can be deleted so
you can take on the world again.
STYLE ICON: Olivia Wilde
Gemini
22 MAY – 21 JUNE
The way you communicate and
connect could benefit from some
fine-tuning this month. Being a
big fish in a small pond may suit
you better than trying to take
on the whole wide world. The
benefits of keeping it real are
increased finances, authentic
romance and more joy at work.
A health kick gets going again, too.
STYLE ICON: Emily Ratajkowski
Libra
HOROSCOPES
July
23 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER
Throwing yourself into a career
that feels like you were born to
it is possible now, and it might
not be the role you’d imagined.
You could hit a love or artistic
target now too, or decide your
aspirations in those areas need to
move on. Friendships also benefit
from a retune, while money
flows in (and out) more easily.
STYLE ICON: Mia Wasikowska
Capricorn
22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY
You might not know what’s hit
you this month with a major shift
in a new or close romantic or
business partnership. Changing
your usual moves could reignite
passion perfectly. The more you
put into current connections and
future plans now the more return
you’ll get on investment, but take
the focus off money and status.
STYLE ICON: Georgia May Jagger
Aries
21 MARCH – 20 APRIL
The accent is on pleasure this
month, though you could be
redefining what pleasure means
to you, as well as re-evaluating
the people you share your
pleasures with. When it comes
to love and wellbeing, you’re
ready to go deeper now yet
feel more liberated by the idea
of commitment.
STYLE ICON: Julia Stiles
Cancer
22 JUNE – 22 JULY
If you’ve felt adrift lately, you’re
back in charge now. An update
of your look and attitude is likely,
starting with a rejig of how you
handle your money. Dig deep into
your artistic side too, as it’s where
new streams of finance could
emerge. Love goes stratospheric
as you’re putting the vamp into
a romantic revamp.
STYLE ICON: Paloma Faith
J U LY 2 0 1 8 1 7 1
 LOLA AND LILLY ZAHLII SLEEP

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An Australian luxurious
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SILK ONLY WHY MARY

At Silk Only, we believe that nothing
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EVAS SUNDAY

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JULY 2018

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 DAVID AND ISSAK IN YOUR ARMS
The new David and Issak collection In Your Arms, driven to
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ZEBRANO | FASHION 14+

Exquisitely designed clothes and a selection to die for... Select from
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Curate by Trelise Cooper, Euphoria, 17 Sundays, Megan Salmon, NYDJ &
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all Australian orders. View lookbooks, discover trends & shop.

zebrano.com.au

SOEL WALKER
AN AUSTRALIAN MADE
SKINCARE BRAND.
Soel Walker is about showing your
unique beauty and reminding you,
that the skin you’re in is beautiful.
Natural and organic ingredients,
no chemicals.
Enjoy 10% off with discount code FRANKIE + DASH
VOGUE. With natural fabrics and ethical manufacturing, we create luxurious
Free Shipping for all Australian Babes. garments without the impact of fast fashion.
Photography by @nikkicruz Exclusive offer for Vogue readers 30% off every order using the
soelwalker code “VOGUE30”
soelwalker.com frankieanddash frankieanddash frankieanddash.com
 LIONEL THE LABEL
Inspired by coastal living and
festival culture, Lionel the Label
introduces a collection of

VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY

swimwear, casual wear and
festival fashion.
Made in Australia, each garment
is constructed with precision,
love and a sustainable approach
to the fashion industry.

lionelthelabel
lionelthelabel
lionelthelabel.com.au

MY TRIBE TYPE
Wellness is the new
beauty treatment.
Add our Love Adaptogenic
Inner Beauty Supplement to
your daily rituals for
de-stressing and sexiness.
MY TRIBE TYPE helps you to
CHRISTIAN PAUL stress less and glow more.
Inspired by the turquoise blue waters of San Blas, white sand between your Explore our range of organic
toes in Mexico and tropical fruit salsa dancing in Cuba. You will feel as wellness products online.
though you have taken a step out of reality and into the Caribbean!
Shop Christian Paul’s recent Caribbean Dreamer collection online and in mytribetype
Myer stores now. mytribetype
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LIANDRA SWIM BOTANY ESSENTIALS

Sun, Sand and Culture Premium skincare for
Liandra Swim is fashion meets every day.
culture. Liandra Swim is an
exclusive Aboriginal owned and Simplicity and elegance
designed swimwear line that combined in this luxurious all
specialises in interlacing high end Australian skin care range
fashion with Aboriginal artwork. containing pure natural
Exclusive to Vogue readers 15% off botanicals including essential
every order in August using code oils and Australian native
“VOGUE15” plant extracts.

liandraswim botanyessentials
liandraswim botanyessentials
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KARRI NATURALS RODE TO NO WEAR

A luxury all natural Australian
made hydrating facial oil An expression of our raw luxe
containing plant, fruit, seed, personal style. Earthy tones, raw
kernel oils and botanical and textured threads. Designed
extracts. and Handmade in Byron Bay.
Inspired by the Australian
floral and botanical collection, Exclusive promotion code for
helping to achieve healthy, Vogue readers. Use code
hydrated and radiant skin. ‘VOGUE15’ for 15% off your
JULY 2018

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karrinaturals
karrinaturals rodetonowear
karrinaturals.com rodetonowear.com.au
176
LONDON CALLING
Westminster and Kensington and Chelsea … they’re not only London boroughs, they’re core styles of
Burberry’s reworked heritage trenches that come as long and short as you like, from Britain to you.
L AST PAGE

ART DIREC TION : D IJANA MAD D I SO N ST YLING : K AI L A MAT TH E WS

PHOTOG R APH : G EO RG I NA EGAN

J U LY 2 01 8
WORDS: AL CE B RRELL
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
contemporary japanese cuisine

sydney the rocks || double bay

melbourne flinders lane || hamer hall
brisbane eagle street pier
sakerestaurant.com.au
official rolex retailers:

sydney j farren-price (02) 9231 3299 • kennedy rolex boutique (02) 9236 0411; kennedy the star (02) 9518 9499
swiss concept Sydney (02) 9221 6288; swiss concept hurstville (02) 9580 8826 • Swiss Watch Gallery
international AIRPORT rolex boutique (02) 9669 1175 • the hour glass (02) 9221 2288 melbourne kennedy
rolex boutique (03) 8614 1160; kennedy chadstone (03) 9108 0633 • the hour glass (03) 9650 6988
watches of switzerland melbourne (03) 9663 3303; Watches of switzerland International Airport (03) 9338 0882
adelaide j farren-price (08) 8223 2787 brisbane langfords jewellers rolex boutique (07) 3210 0614
the hour glass (07) 3221 9133 gold coast langfords jewellers rolex boutique (07) 5575 5858
perth kennedy rolex boutique (08) 6169 3690 • smale s je wellers (08) 9382 32 2 2 • watche s of swit zerl and (08) 932 2 8800