CHAPTER 9

ON THE PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION OF WAVE FORCE

AND AN INTRODUCTION TO THE CORRELATION DRAG
COEFFICIENT AND THE CORRELATION INERTIAL
COEFFICIENT

Charles L. Bretschneider
Vice President, Eastern Operations
Nat ional Engineering Science COlnpany
McLean, Virginia

INTRODUCTION

In m.any design problem.s the sea state is specified as part of the

design criteria. For offshore structures it is im.portant to know the
m.axim.um. probable wave height and the m.axim.um. probable wave force
which m.ight be experience d during the life expectancy of the structure,
for exam.ple the 50 or 100 year wave height and period and the 50 or 100
year wave force. Based on previous analysis of wave and wave force d
re
m.easurem.ents, practically no correlation was found between the m.ea s 1.J.
ve
"apparent wave height" and "apparent wave force." Several authors ha.
proposed statistical distribution of drag and m.as s coefficients, with
recom.m.endations for use in design.

The statistical distribution of the calculated drag {or m.ass} co - d

efficients has no relationship to the statistical distribution of the m.ea s 1.l.~e
wave drag forces {or inertial forces}. Borgm.an {1964} has considered t e
statistical distribution of wave forces.
i
This paper presents m.ethods for predicting the probability dist:r -
butions of peak wave drag and inertial forces, and a m.ethod is propos e d
which m.ight be used to predict the m.ost probable m.axim.um. wave fore e .
once the sea state is specified. It is found that there is a good correIa-tl.on
between the probability distributions of wave heights and the probabili tY
distributions of peak drag forces. For exam.ple, if the m.ost probable
m.axim.um. wave height is given from. a statistical distribution of wave
height, then it is possible to predict the m.ost probable m.axim.um. drag
{or inertial} force, and the m.ost probable m.axim.um. force {com.bined
drag and inertial force}.

PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION OF WAVE HEIGHTS AND

THE MOST PROBABLE MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHT

THE RAYLEIGH DISTRIBUTION

It was first shown by Longuet-Higgins {1952} that if the sea st a.._t e

o n
is Gaussian and has a narrow spectrum., then the probability distribu t:J..

183
 184 COASTAL ENGINEERING

of wave h e i g h t s f o l l o w s the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n , hence

p (H) d H = 2 e \^r / dH (1)

H
r
where
p (H) d H is p r o b a b i l i t y d e n s i t y of H
H = H. is i n d i v i d u a l wave h e i g h t of the d i s t r i b u t i o n
H^ i s the r o o t m e a n s q u a r e wave h e i g h t ; i . e.

(2)

The arithmetic mean H =^ ^ H . i s r e l a t e d as f o l l o w s :

H = y Tr/4H^ = 0.625 H^ f| ^ , ^ :T (3)

where H^ is the s i g n i f i c a n t wave h e i g h t .

T h e i n t e g r a l of E q . (1) leads to the c u m u l a t i v e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i -

bution, whence
H^ 2
P (H) = 1-e V^r/ (4)

R e a r r a n g i n g the t e r m s i n E q . (4) and t a k i n g the n a t u r a l l o g { i n)

of b o t h sides one obtains

•H7= V ^ 1 - P (H) = N - N P (H) (5)

w h e r e It n s i g n i f i e s n a t u r a l l o g a r i t h m , and N the t o t a l n u m b e r of waves

in a r e c o r d .

Now the h i g h e s t wave i n a r e c o r d of N w a v e s , say at l e a s t 100

waves, should c o r r e s p o n d to

N - N p (H) = 1 o r f o r P (H) = N - 1 _ N
N - N + 1
Now a m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m wave h e i g h t H can be d e f i n e d
accordingly; max

H
max
Hj. yflTW (6)
T h e above e q u a t i o n also f o l l o w s f r o m the w o r k by L o n g u e t - H i g g i n s (1952)
f o r l a r g e v a l u e s of N . 6 66 v /
 185
WAVE F O R C E

The s i g n i f i c a n t wave p e r i o d T i s a p p r o x i m a t e l y equal to the

m e a n wave p e r i o d ^

T = T = -1- y T. '"'^

T h e t o t a l n u m b e r of waves N can be e s t i m a t e d approxi'^^*^"''^

frc

N = t/T '^^^
s
where t i s the l e n g t h of r e c o r d i n seconds and T^ i s the sig'^^''^'''^^'^*
wave p e r i o d i n seconds. I n g e n e r a l t i s l i m i t e d by the d u r a t i o ' ^ "^
s t o r m f o r steady state c o n d i t i o n , when H and T r e m a i n r^^^ ^
constant. ^

THE W E I B U L L DISTRIBUTION

When the sea state d e v i a t e s f r o m Gaussian, t h e n the P-^X ' ^ ' n o w e v e r

d i s t r i b u t i o n a l s o d e v i a t e s , b u t not so m u c h as m i g h t be e x p e c t ^ ^£
i f g r e a t e r a c c u r a c y i s r e q u i r e d , one can o b t a i n i m p r o v e m e n t
W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n . * W e i b u l l (1951) p r e s e n t e d a d i s t r i b u t i o n ^'^'^'^^l^^^
w h i c h has been used s u c c e s s f u l l y f o r o t h e r e n g i n e e r i n g p r o b l e t ^ ^ "
W e i b u l l c u m u l a t i v e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n , a p p l i e d to wave l a S i S '

P (H) = 1 - e"""
w h e r e A and m a r e c o n s t a n t s . F r o m E q . (9) the p r o b a b i l i t y <i^'^^^''-y
d i s t r i b u t i o n becomes

/ H\ ™

p(H)dH = Am(-^)"^ H-^e"^ W dH ^''^

A l t h o u g h the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n has no t h e o r e t i c a l foundatiorT^ ' ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
the advantage of b e i n g e a s i l y m a n i p u l a t e d f o r use w i t h e m p i r i ^

I f one t a k e s the l o g a r i t h m of E q . (9) t w i c e , r e a r r a n g i r ^ - ë ti^^"^^

one obtains

One c o u l d a l s o m a k e use of the G a m m a type d i s t r i b u t i o n s , ^ "Ti^ % r o -

the w o r k on wave h e i g h t and w a v e p e r i o d d i s t r i b u t i o n s o r i g 3- leieh
posed by P u t z (1952) b e f o r e L o n g u e t - H i g g i n s developed the ^ &
d i s t r i b u t i o n f o r wave h e i g h t s .
186 COASTAL ENGINEERING

Q
Qi
(-
<
O

z
a
HAN
AN

1-
I
cr
UJ Hi
s h-
1- < UJ
li_ cr
O <s>

(- CC
2 o
UJ
O o
CC 1-
til
Q. _ i

<
RE EQ

<

^ ^ ^ 6 8 10 20 30 40 60 80 lOO
H (ft.) AND fp (lbs.)

Figure 1. Cumulative Distribution of Wave Height

and Drag Force (Weibull Plot)
 WAVE F O R C E 187

1 a
in in 1 - p (h) ~ inA + m in -j^— (11)

E q . (11) i s t h a t of a s t r a i g h t l i n e , i n A b e i n g the i n t e r c e p t and

m the slope. T h u s , e m p i r i c a l l y one can o b t a i n A and m to d e t e r m i n e
the b e s t f i t e x p r e s s i o n f o r E q . (11). I t m i g h t be noted f o r A = 1,
i n A = 0 and m = 2 , one o b t a i n s the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n s g i v e n b y
E q s . (1) or (4).

S p e c i a l g r a p h p a p e r c a n be c o n s t r u c t e d f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n
f u n c t i o n so t h a t one can p l o t d i r e c t l y H v s . P (H) and e l i m i n a t e the need
f o r t a k i n g the c o r r e s p o n d i n g l o g a r i t h m s . F i g u r e 1 is a g r a p h f o r the
W e i b u l l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n data. The data i n F i g u r e 1 a r e f o r w a v e
h e i g h t s and d r a g f o r c e s f r o m a r e c o r d by W i e g e l (1954). I f t h e s e data
f o l l o w e d the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n , t h e n the slope of the l i n e f o r w a v e
h e i g h t w o u l d be m = 2 and d r a g f o r c e w o u l d be m = 1. T h e r e a s o n t h a t
the slopes m d e v i a t e c o n s i d e r a b l y f r o m t h e o r y i n F i g u r e 1 i s the f a c t
t h a t m a n y o f the s m a l l e r waves w e r e not e n t e r e d i n the t a b u l a t i o n . H o w -
e v e r , the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n a p p e a r s to be a good a p p r o x i m a t i o n f o r a
r e c o r d w h i c h i s t r i m m e d at the l o w end.

T h e m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m vave f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n
becomes

H = H "^Z 4 - i n N (12)
max r ^ A ^ '

P R O B A B I L I T Y DISTRIBUTION OF P E A K DRAG FORCES

A N D P E A K I N E R T I A L FORCES

LINEAR THEORY

A c c o r d i n g to M o r i s o n , et. a l . (1950), the e q u a t i o n f o r w a v e f o r c e

is given by

f (t) = f ^ (t) + f. ( t ) (13)-

where

f ^ (t) = p Cj^ D u | u | is the d r a g f o r c e (14)

E q . (13) i s g e n e r a l and a p p l i c a b l e a l s o f o r h i g h e r o r d e r wave t h e o r y ,

p r o v i d e d t h a t t h e r e is no s e c o n d a r y i n f l u e n c e caused by the p i l e b e i n g
i m m e r s e d i n the w a v e , o r v o r t i c i t y as m i g h t be caused by v i s c o s i t y
or w i n d - a i r - w a t e r i n t e r f a c e e f f e c t s .
188 COASTAL ENGINEERING

and

f. (t) = ^ P u is the i n e r t i a l f o r c e (15)

where

p = mass density, slugs/ft"^

= drag coefficient
C = mass coefficient
m
D = pile diameter
u = horizontal particle velocity
|u| = a b s o l u t e value of u
Ü = horizontal particle acceleration
A c c o r d i n g to l i n e a r t h e o r y , the h o r i z o n t a l p a r t i c l e v e l o c i t y is g i v e n by
TT H c o s h k (d + z) ., ,,,,
sinh k d cos (kx - cr t) (16)

and the h o r i z o n t a l p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i o n by
• 2 Tr^ H c o s h k (d + z) . ,, , , ^^
u(t) = — 2 3inh k d -n(kx-crt) (17)

where
k = 2 tr / L = wave n u m b e r
or =2 TT/T = wave f r e q u e n c y
d = w a t e r depth
z = d i s t a n c e m e a s u r e d n e g a t i v e d o w n w a r d f r o m the u n d i s t u r b e d
mean water surface
Ö = ( k x - o-t)

The m a x i m u m d r a g f o r c e o c c u r s at 9 = 0, whence cos 9 = 1 ,

sin 9 = 0; the m a x i m u m i n e r t i a l f o r c e o c c u r s at 9 = ir / 2, whence
cos 9 = 0,' s i n 9 = 1 .

I t w i l l be c o n v e n i e n t to w r i t e E q s . (14) and (15) respectively for

m a x i m u m o r peak values as f o l l o w s :

fj^ = at 0 =0 (18)

f. = H at 0 = ir /2 (19)
 WAVE F O R C E 189

where, f r o m Eqs. (15) and (16)

K = i - P C^D ^H^lLk(d+z)_\^ at 9 = 0 (20)

1 2 D yT smh k d y
and 2
K = 4- p C c o s h k ( d ^ z) 0 ^ (21)
2 4 m rj,^ smh k d
K n o w i n g the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t s and a s s u m i n g
f o r the t i m e b e i n g t h a t C _ , C , D , T and d a r e constant, * one c a n
^ D' m
o b t a i n the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r f^^ and f^ r e s p e c t i v e l y as f o l l o w s :

p (f^) d f = p (H) d H (22)

and
p ( f . ) d f. = p (H) d H (23)
F r o m Eqs. (18) and (19), r e s p e c t i v e l y , one obtains by d i f f e r e n t i a -
tion

d f = 2 H dH (24)

and
d f. = dH (25)

I t t h e n f o l l o w s f r o m E q s . (1), (18), (19), (22), (23), (24) and (25)

t h a t the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r peak d r a g f o r c e s and peak i n e r t i a l
f o r c e s r e s p e c t i v e l y a r e as f o l l o w s :

^1 "r
and

2 f. \ K, H
p ( f . ) d f. = ^ e ^ ^ ' d f. (27)

* A s s u m i n g T is c o n s t a n t i n f e r s t h a t t h e r e i s no c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n
H and T , and T i s the same at a l l l e v e l s of H i n the j o i n t p r o b a b i l i t y
d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n H and T . I f C _ and C a r e not c o n s t a n t , t h e n
D m
a b e t t e r f o r m of the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n w o u l d be p (f^^/C-j^) and
p ( f . / C ) where and C a r e f u n c t i o n s of the wave p a r a m e t e r s and
^ 1 m' D m
pile size.
190 COASTAL ENGINEERING

Now l e t

f- = f = K, = K, H 2 (28)
D Da 1 1 r
and
f. 2 = kJ- = H 2 (29)
ir 2 2 r

thus

p (fj^) d = - j ^ e ^Da d (30)

Da
and

f. ^2
2 f. i-r ,

p ( f . ) d f. = ^ e V^ir / d f. (31)
ir
The c u m u l a t i v e d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r E q s . (30) and (31) a r e g i v e n r e s p e c t i v e l y
by
^D
P {i^) = 1 - e ^Da (32)

and

P ( f . ) = l1 -- e " ( \"' it r" )/ (33)

If f j _ | i s p r o p o r t i o n a l to and to H , a c c o r d i n g to l i n e a r

t h e o r y , t h e n the d i s t r i b u t i o n of ( f „ / f ^ )^ ^ ^ , ( f . / f . ) and ( H / H ) s h o u l d
D Da 1 ir r
c o i n c i d e ; i . e. , a l l t h r e e r e l a t i o n s f o l l o w the n o n d i m e n s i o n a l f o r m o f the
Rayleigh distribution.
F r o m the above equation one obtains the f o l l o w i n g f o r the m o s t
p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m d r a g and m a x i m u m i n e r t i a l f o r c e s , r e s p e c t i v e l y :

f^, ^ = i n N (34)
D(max) Da
and
f., , = f. -JUnTSl (35)
x(max) ir v
 WAVE F O R C E 191

WEIBULL DISTRIBUTION

F o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n one can w r i t e the f o l l o w i n g equations

f o r d r a g f o r c e and i n e r t i a l f o r c e r e s p e c t i v e l y :
m
-^1 (^D^W
P (f^) = 1 - e ^ ^ (36)
and m,
-A (f./f. )
P (f.) = 1 - e 1 (37)

where A ^ , A ^ , m^^ and are e m p i r i c a l constants.

T h e d r a g and i n e r t i a l f o r c e s c a n s t i l l be obtained by use of M o r i s o n ' s

e q u a t i o n s , b u t u and ü should be o b t a i n e d by use of h i g h e r o r d e r wave
theory.

The m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m d r a g and i n e r t i a l f o r c e s f o r the W e i b u l l

d i s t r i b u t i o n a r e obtained r e s p e c t i v e l y as f o l l o w s :

^T^l \ = -t/-^- (38)

D(max) Da \ •'^i

and

i-l
i ( m a x )s = f-i r I.\ -TT—
* i n N ^(39)'

P R O B A B I L I T Y D I S T R I B U T I O N OF P E A K FORCES
( C O M B I N E D D R A G A N D I N E R T I A L FORCES)

LINEAR WAVE THEORY

R e t u r n i n g now to E q s . (13) t h r u (17) and w r i t i n g the wave f o r c e

e q u a t i o n as

f = K ^ H ^ cos 6 I cos e I + K ^ H s i n e (40)

f o r the phase p o s i t i o n - = 9 =-HI , one m a y o b t a i n the m a x i m u m

positive f o r c e by setting d f / d 9 = 0 at 9 = |3 , whence

K
p = arc sin ^ H ^"^'^
192 COASTAL ENGINEERING
 WAVE FORCE 193

for

T < < ~

but since the m a x i m u m f o r c e w i l l a l w a y s o c c u r at o r ahead of the c r e s t ,

one c a n w r i t e

0 < P < -T
A s i m i l a r e q u a t i o n can be d e r i v e d f o r the m a x i m u m n e g a t i v e f o r c e .
2 2
U s i n g the i d e n t i t y cos 6 -h s i n 9 = 1 , one obtains the e x p r e s s i o n
f o r m a x i m u m f o r c e as f o l l o w s :
2 1
1
for

0 < P < 4
U s i n g E q s . (18) and (19), E q . (42) b e c o m e s

2"
f.
f 1 + for 0 < 1 =
D

otherwise (43)

for > 2
D
I n F i g u r e 2 the c u r v e f o r A i r y t h e o r y , r e p r o d u c e d f r o m R e i d and
B r e t s c h n e i d e r (1953), i s based on

where
194 COASTAL ENGINEERING

Dm
(45)

dz

Once and f^^ have been d e t e r m i n e d f o r any p a r t i c u l a r • ' - ^ ^ ^ p i e ,

p r o b a b i l i t y , then f can be d e t e r m i n e d b y use of E q . (43). F o r e^a-

1 + Z 2
ma Da
'46)
otherwise

f = f. for
ma ir f
Da

T h e m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m (peak) wave f o r c e b e c o m e s

2"
1 / "^i(max) \ for 0 Z ^ÜEiiïL § 2
1 +
•^m ( m a x ) ^D(max)
* \^D(max)/ D(max)
(47)
-otherwise
i(max)
f , , = f., , for > 2
m(max) i(max) ±
D(max)

Eq. (43) can a l s o be w r i t t e n as f o l l o w s :

2
f C
for
r - ^ ~
1/2 PD u D

m D_d < 2
< 2 C 2
D u
(48)
otherwise
C ir DÜ
m 2 for
1/2 P Du

C
JL m DÜ > 2
2 CD u
 WAVE FORCE 19

T h e use of E q . (48) f o r data a n a l y s i s was i l l u s t r a t e d i n an e a r l i e r

r e p o r t by B r e t s c h n e i d e r (19 57). The f i r s t f o r m of E q . (48) i s t h a t of a
s t r a i g h t l i n e Y = b + m x , w h e r e b = C^^ , the i n t e r c e p t , and C ^ ^ / C ^ - j
is the slope of the l i n e . T h u s , f o r a set of the p r o p e r data the f i r s t f o r m
of E q . (48) can be u s e d to solve s i m u l t a n e o u s l y f o r C^^ and C ^ .

T h e second f o r m of E q . (48) is a l s o t h a t of a s t r a i g h t l i n e b u t
passes t h r o u g h the o r i g i n . T h i s does not m e a n t h a t Cj^ i s z e r o , b u t
t h a t the d r a g f o r c e i s z e r o and Cj^ v a n i s h e s because a l l the f o r c e i s
i n e r t i a l f o r c e . T h i s w o u l d be o b s e r v e d on the wave r e c o r d w h e n the
m a x i m u m f o r c e o c c u r s at a phase p o s i t i o n i r / 2 ahead of the wave c r e s t .
I n u s i n g E q . (48) one should a l w a y s c h e c k to see w h i c h of the t w o f o r m s
a p p l i c a b l e . E x c e p t f o r l a r g e p i l e s and r e l a t i v e l y l o w w a v e h e i g h t s , the
f i r s t f o r m of E q . (48) w i l l g e n e r a l l y a p p l y .

A l s o of i n t e r e s t i n E q . (48) i s the p a r a m e t e r ^ ^ • which is a

u
f o r m of the F r o u d e n u m b e r , w h e r e the a c c e l e r a t i o n g due to g r a v i t y
is r e p l a c e d w i t h the p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i o n ü . I v e r s o n and B a l e n t ( 1 9 5 1 )
f i r s t used the above p a r a m e t e r , and since then i t has been c a l l e d the
Iverson number.

P R O B A B I L I T Y D I S T R I B U T I O N O F P E A K FORCES

T h e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of peak f o r c e s ( c o m b i n e d d r a g and
i n e r t i a l ) c a n be o b t a i n e d i n a s i m p l e m a n n e r as t h a t used f o r d r a g and
i n e r t i a l f o r c e s ; i . e. :

P (f ) d f p (H) d H (49)

where f^ was p r e v i o u s l y g i v e n by E q . (42). U s i n g E q . (42) one o b t a i n - ^

the p r o p e r r e l a t i o n s h i p f o r d f ^ = 2 K^^ H d H , and t o g e t h e r w i t h the
R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n f o r w a v e h e i g h t , one obtains the p r o b a b i l i t y d e n s i t y
f o r peak f o r c e . I t t h e n f o l l o w s t h a t the c u m u l a t i v e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i ' ^
becomes:

1 / \A
^Da for 0 <
1 - e
Da

otherwise (50 >

 196 COASTAL ENGINEERING

f
P (f ) = P (f, for m

E q (50) is s i m i l a r to t h a t o b t a i n e d by B o r g m a n (1964), i n a s l i g h t l y
different manner. ^ '

T h e m o s t p r o b a b l e m a x i m u m wave f o r c e , based on E q . (50) will

be g i v e n by E q . (47) p r e v i o u s l y d e r i v e d .

WEIBULL DISTRIBUTION

' ^ ^ ^ p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n o f m a x i m u m f o r c e s f o r the W e i b u l l
d i s t r i b u t i o n should be d e t e r m i n e d by use o f e m p i r i c a l data. I f t h e r e
e x i s t s a change f r o m p u r e i n e r t i a l f o r c e to p r e d o m i n a n t l y d r a g f o r c e f o r
a p a r t i c u l a r r e c o r d , then one s h o u l d o b s e r v e t h i s f a c t by a change i n the
slope of the data on the W e i b u l l p l o t .

I N T E R P R E T A T I O N OF CORRELATION DRAG AND

CORRELATION INERTIAL COEFFICIENTS

I n the p r e v i o u s d e v e l o p m e n t on p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s of wave
f o r c e s , I t IS a s s u m e d t h a t C ^ and C ^ w e r e c o n s t a n t s . Previous
a n a l y s i s b y W i e g e l , et. a L (1957) shows a v a s t s c a t t e r of the v a l u e s of
C and C .
D m

I n o r d e r to c o r r e l a t e e m p i r i c a l data on the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n
of d r a g f o r c e s (and i n e r t i a l f o r c e s ) w i t h the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of w a
ve
h e i g h t s . I t w i l l be c o n v e n i e n t to i n t r o d u c e the t e r m s " c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t " C ^ ^ and " c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t " C _ w h i c h a r e
d e t e r m i n e d r e s p e c t i v e l y f r o m the f o l l o w i n g : mr

r = '^Da _ -^Da
' ^ pDu_2 = ^ T H D - (51)
r
and
4 f. f.
C i2r . i r 2~
mr ~ ^^É)
17 P D u ^ ^2 °
whe

^Da a v e r a g e of m a x i m u m d r a g f o r c e s ;
u^ i s r o o t m e a n square a v e r a g e of p a r t i c l e v e l o c i t y
( w h e r e f ^ i s m a x , 9 = 0);
 197
WAVE F O R C E

r • J- r • • 1 f o r c e s ; and
1. IS r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e of m a x i m u m m
is i neerrtti a i '•
ir
is r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e of p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i e ' ^
/T- r - „ = „ ; - , i, , .4-; on w h e r e
( w h e r e f. i s m a x , 0 > w / Z , o r the phase p o s i t s "
the s u r f a c e p r o f i l e i n t e r s e c t s m e a n w a t e r e l e v a t i o i ^ ' '

Pj^ and P^ a r e g i v e n as f u n c t i o n s of H / d , d / T ^ and S/*^

tables by S k j e l b r e i a , et. a l . (1961) f o r the f i f t h o r d e r Stokes ^ ^ " ^ ^ ^heor ^ '
T h u s , Cj-j^ and can a p p l y to c o n d i t i o n s of h i g h o r d e r w a ^ ^

I n o r d e r to evaluate C^-^^ and f r o m measured ^^^^

n e c e s s a r y to have simultaneous'^'recording^s'of wave e l e v a t i o n af"^ w a v e
f o r c e t r a c e s , say 15 to 20 m i n u t e s d u r a t i o n . F r o m the wave ^ ^ ^ ^ t h e
t r a c e one r e a d s o f f the i n d i v i d u a l wave h e i g h t , such as a c c o r d i i ^ S °
z e r o u p - c r o s s i n g m e t h o d p r o p o s e d by P i e r son (1955), whence
„ 2 _ 1 ^ 2 (53)

where N is the t o t a l n u m b e r of waves and Hj^ is the i n d i v i d u a - ^ ^^^^

h e i g h t . F r o m the wave f o r c e t r a c e , at c r e s t p o s i t i o n , one r e a - d S the
i n d i v i d u a l peak d r a g f o r c e s and c a l c u l a t e s

f = ^ V f (^^'
Da N Di
where f^^^ i s the i n d i v i d u a l p e a k d r a g f o r c e .
S f 3. ^ ^
A l s o f r o m the wave f o r c e t r a c e , at phase p o s i t i o n w h e l " ® rtial
p r o f i l e and s t i l l w a t e r i n t e r s e c t , one r e a d s the i n d i v i d u a l p e a K i^®""^
f o r c e s and c a l c u l a t e s
f 2 ^ J _ ^-^ . 2 (55)
ir N ZJ i i
w h e r e f^^^ i s the i n d i v i d u a l peak i n e r t i a l f o r c e .

Now f r o m the wave h e i g h t ( o r wave f o r c e ) t r a c e one c

m e a n wave p e r i o d
t (56)
T =
N
wave peric
w h e r e t i s the l e n g t h of r e c o r d i n seconds and T is the m e a * ^
in seconds.

Using H^, T , d (depth of w a t e r ) and S (depth of sub i ' ^ ^ ' ^ ^ ^ ' ^ ' ^ ^ '
f o r w a v e f o r c e d e t e r m i n a t i o n s , one can c a l c u l a t e u and ü - T h i s ca
 198 COASTAL ENGINEERING

be done by use of the a p p r o p r i a t e wave t h e o r y . I t then f o l l o w s that Cpj

"^""^ ^rar ""^^ ^'^ c a l c u l a t e d by use of E q s . (51) and (52) r e s p e c t i v e l y -

A check on the adequacy of the " c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t " ^an

be m a d e by a p p l y i n g the c a l c u l a t e d c o e f f i c i e n t C ^ ^ to the d i s t r i b u t i o n of
wave heights to d e t e r m i n e the c o r r e s p o n d i n g d i s t r i b u t i o n of d r a g f o r c e s
and c o m p a r e the r e s u l t s w i t h the d i s t r i b u t i o n of m e a s u r e d d r a g f o r c e s .

A n a l t e r n a t e a p p r o a c h to the check can be t a k e n by c o n s i d e r i n g

s i m u l t a n e o u s l y the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s of wave h e i g h t and of d r a g
f o r c e , and c a l c u l a t e an a p p a r e n t d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t based on c o r r e s p o n d i n g
d r a g f o r c e and wave h e i g h t at each l e v e l of p e r c e n t p r o b a b i l i t y . T h e
c o n s t a n c y of C^^ at a l l l e v e l s of p e r c e n t p r o b a b i l i t y ( o r m i n i m u m d e v i a -
t i o n s f r o m C ^ ^ ) is an i n d e x of the d e g r e e of c o r r e l a t i o n . A c h e c k on the
adequacy of the " c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t " C can be m a d e i ^ ^ ^
s i m i l a r m a n n e r as d e s c r i b e d above.

I f the " c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t " and the " c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l

c o e f f i c i e n t " a r e f o u n d to be r e l a t i v e l y constant ( o r else some f u n c t i o n
the v a r i a b l e s H , T , d, S and D ), then one can c a l c u l a t e f and ^ir
as f o l l o w s : Da

f nDa
= = 42 ^P C
"^Dr
_ D u / (57)
aad

f= = — P C D^d (58)
ir IT ^ mr r
I t then f o l l o w s that the p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s of the peak f o X - c e s
( d r a g , i n e r t i a l , and c o m b i n e d d r a g and i n e r t i a l ) c a n be c a l c u l a t e d
the c o r r e s p o n d i n g equations g i v e n e a r l i e r .

A N A L Y S I S O F SOME D A T A P R E S E N T L Y A V A I L A B L E

T h e r e a r e s e v e r a l s o u r c e s of data w h i c h m i g h t be a n a l y z e d f c>
d e m o n s t r a t i o n p u r p o s e s . R e f e r e n c e s to these data a r e s u m m a r i z e d ^
r e p o r t b y B r e t s c h n e i d e r , C o l l i n s and P i c k (1965). E v i d e n t l y t h e r e
s o u r c e s of data w h i c h w o u l d be quite u s e f u l , n a m e l y W i e g e l , et. a l . < *
and 1957) and S k j e l b r e i a , et. a l . (1960), the l a t t e r of w h i c h i s not a - ^ ^ . ^ ^ ^ ' '
at p r e s e n t . T h e r e f o r e , the f o l l o w i n g d e m o n s t r a t i o n i s l i m i t e d to t h e
d a t a by W i e g e l (1954 and 1957), but i t w o u l d be of g r e a t advantage t o s-PP^^
the same d e m o n s t r a t i o n , f o r the sake of the "state of the a r t , " a l s o ^ o
the data used by S k j e l b r e i a , et. a l . ( I 9 6 0 ) .
 WAVE F O R C E 199

100
1
DATA FROfil WIEGEL (1957) 1
90
TABLE I
80 1
[ 1
WAVES 228 - 325
70
D= 1 2 . 7 5 INCHES
60 1 1
50 ;

1 ' '
i : i
40 I '
' 1 ' : !

' 1 ; 1 ' 1
I ' l
30
1

•
20

15
• •
• *
•
H (ft) 10 >
•
..r
•
(INDIVIDUAL ) 9
8 • V
7 é
• • • *

'

- • - - ^
- ^

1 L.

3 4 5 6 8 10 15 20 25 3C 40 50 60 80 lOO
• D ( lbs ) ( I N D I V I D U A L )

Figure 3 . Measured Wave Height vs. Measured Wave Drag Force

(Joint Probability Distribution of Wave Height and Drag Force)
200 COASTAL ENGINEERING

T h e m a i n t e x t of t h i s paper m e n t i o n s t h r e e types of p r o b a b i l i t y
d i s t r i b u t i o n : R a y l e i g h , W e i b u l l , and the G a m m a t y p e . T h e R a y l e i g h
d i s t r i b u t i o n is t h e o r e t i c a l and the o t h e r t w o a r e e m p i r i c a l , w h i c h r e q u i r e
a s t a t i s t i c a l a n a l y s i s of e m p i r i c a l data. I n some r e s p e c t s the e m p i r i c a l
d i s t r i b u t i o n s t e n d to account f o r the n o n l i n e a r a s p e c t s , w h i c h a r e not
a l l o w e d f o r by the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n .

F i g u r e 1 is a t y p i c a l e x a m p l e of a wave h e i g h t and d r a g f o r c e d i s t r i -
b u t i o n , p l o t t e d on a W e i b u l l d i s t r i l a u t i o n g r a p h . I t i s seen f r o m F i g u r e 1
t h a t the r e l a t i o n s h i p f o r the W e i b u l l d i s t r i b u t i o n i s a s t r a i g h t l i n e w i t h
s t r a i g h t slope m . F o r the R a y l e i g h d i s t r i b u t i o n the slope s h o u l d be
m = Z f o r wave h e i g h t and m = 1 f o r d r a g f o r c e , based on l i n e a r w a v e
t h e o r y . O b v i o u s l y the c o r r e s p o n d i n g slopes w e r e not v e r i f i e d , f i r s t b e c a u s e
the data a r e i n c o m p l e t e f o r l o w wave h e i g h t s , and second, the waves and
f o r c e s a r e not d e s c r i b e d by l i n e a r wave t h e o r y . N e v e r t h e l e s s , t h e r e
e x i s t s a good e m p i r i c a l r e l a t i o n s h i p f o r c a l c u l a t i n g the c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t s , p r o v i d e d h i g h o r d e r wave t h e o r y i s used to c a l c u l a t e the
particle velocities.

F o r p u r p o s e s of d e m o n s t r a t i n g the c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t
and the c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t , r e f e r e n c e i s m a d e to the d a t a by
W i e g e l , et. a l . (1954 and 1957). The wave h e i g h t data w e r e g r o u p e d i n
o n e - f o o t i n c r e m e n t s . T a b l e s 1, Z and 3 c o r r e s p o n d to the o r i g i n a l data
by W i e g e l , et. a l . g i v e n i n h i s T a b l e s I , I I and I I I .

F i g u r e 3 shows a s c a t t e r d i a g r a m o r a j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n of H and
f j ^ of the o r i g i n a l data, p o i n t by p o i n t . A s can be seen, t h e r e i s t r e -
m e n d o u s s c a t t e r , b u t a t r e n d of i n c r e a s i n g f^-^ w i t h i n c r e a s i n g H . T h e
c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n f o r H and f^-^ a r e o b t a i n e d r e s p e c -
t i v e l y by s u m m a t i o n independent of each o t h e r . F i g u r e 4 shows c u m u l a t i v e
m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of d r a g f o r c e and wave h e i g h t p l o t t e d on l o g n o r m a l
g r a p h p a p e r . T h e f i f t h o r d e r g r a v i t y wave t h e o r y was u s e d to c a l c u l a t e
particle velocities.

T h e r o o t m e a n s q u a r e a v e r a g e , o r the o v e r a l l c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t f o r F i g u r e 3, i s a p p r o x i m a t e l y C^^^ = 0. 75. The d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t
f o r v a r i o u s w a v e h e i g h t and wave f o r c e p r o b a b i l i t i e s r a n g e s b e t w e e n 0. 4
and 0. 8 f o r l a r g e and s m a l l wave h e i g h t s , r e s p e c t i v e l y . T h e l o w e r v a l u e
of Cj_j^ m i g h t be a s s o c i a t e d w i t h a h i g h R e y n o l d s n u m b e r e f f e c t . I f C^-^^ =
0. 7 5 w e r e a p p l i e d to a l l wave h e i g h t s , m o s t of the d i s t r i b u t i o n of f o r c e s
w o u l d be v e r i f i e d , except that the m a x i m u m v a l u e s w o u l d be too h i g h by
a f a c t o r of 1. 5 to Z. 0.
 WAVE F O R C E 201

00 N to

- ^
o X
O

\ X
O bo
\ X

O O < O
- <
or Q U
O Z ,,
O O
:

tr
LLI
I-
O <
UJ

in ccLÜ

o |
13
cc
co ï
O
O UJ
— O
1 U.

\ O

s ^
CT> LJJ
( J
CC - 8
\1 11 lO L Ü
cn CL
— IT)

O S z
CC M OJ in
LLI ijj CO N
< ü> _J LlJ pJ "
1- UJ CD > —
< ~ < < II Q
Q * (- 5 O (J

O O O O O O CD CO 1/1 ro
oo co ro
in
202 COASTAL ENGINEERING

15

'3 4 5 6 8 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 80 100
( lbs ) ( RANKED )

Figure 5 . Ranked Wave Height vs. Ranked Drag Force

(Correlation between Marginal Distribution of Wave
Height and Marginal Distribution of Drag Force
 WAVE F O R C E 203

100
DATA FROM WIEGEL (1957)

80 TABLE II
WAVES 23 - 127
D = 24 INCHES
60

50

40

30

20

15

•
• •
• • • • • -•
H (ft ) 10
• • • •
• • •
•
•
(INDIVIDUAL )
A A •
8 •
• •• • •
• •
6
• •
—•
5

1
5 6 8 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 80 100

f • (lbs) ( INDIVIDUAL

Figure 6 . Measured Wave Height vs. Measured Drag Force

(Joint Probability Distribution of Wave Height and Drag Force)
Figure 7. Cumulative Distribution of Wave Height and Drag Force
 WAVE F O R C E 205

If, f o r example, f^ and H w e r e c o r r e l a t e d on a p l o t f o r v a r i o u s

values of p = 0 . 5 , I , 5 , 1 0 , 2 0 , 5 0 , etc. , one w o u l d o b t a i n a c o n t i n u o u s
s m o o t h c u r v e . I m m e d i a t e l y i t b e c o m e s o b v i o u s t h a t the o r i g i n a l data,
w h e n r a n k e d , s h o u l d a l s o f o l l o w a s i m i l a r r e l a t i o n s h i p . T h a t i s , i f the
wave h e i g h t s a r e r a n k e d i n one c o l u m n and the wave f o r c e s r a n k e d i n
a n o t h e r c o l u m n , t h e n the c o r r e s p o n d i n g r a n k e d data should f o l l o w a
s m o o t h c u r v e w i t h m i n i m u m d e v i a t i o n . The o r i g i n a l data of W i e g e l ( 1 9 5 7 )
( T a b l e I) have been r a n k e d a c c o r d i n g to wave h e i g h t and a c c o r d i n g to d r a g
f o r c e and the c o r r e s p o n d i n g v a l u e s have been p l o t t e d i n F i g u r e 5. F i g u r e 3,
of c o u r s e , r e p r e s e n t s the d a t a as a j o i n t p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n
wave f o r c e and w a v e h e i g h t , but w i t h p r a c t i c a l l y no c o r r e l a t i o n . T h i s i s
the s a m e as p l o t t i n g o r c o r r e l a t i n g the c u m u l a t i v e m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n
of wave d r a g f o r c e v e r s u s the c u m u l a t i v e m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave
height.

F i g u r e 5 shows t h a t t h e r e is a d e f i n i t e c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the
m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t and the m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n of
wave f o r c e . I n F i g u r e 5 the d e v i a t i o n s f r o m a s t r a i g h t l i n e a r e i n p a r t
a s s o c i a t e d w i t h the d e v i a t i o n of f r o m C^^ = 0. 7 5 given i n Figure 4.
F i g u r e 5 shows a t r e m e n d o u s i m p r o v e m e n t i n c o r r e l a t i o n f r o m that g i v e n
by the same data i n F i g u r e 4 . T h i s i s as expected f r o m any " g u n shot"
b l o c k of data.

F i g u r e 6 shows a s c a t t e r d i a g r a m o r a j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n
H and f ^ o b t a i n e d f r o m T a b l e 2 by W i e g e l , et. a l . T h e r e a g a i n a p p e a r s
to be a b s o l u t e l y no c o r r e l a t i o n between m e a s u r e d a p p a r e n t f^.^ and the
corresponding measured apparent H. The j o i n t d i s t r i b u t i o n b e t w e e n H
and f ^ i s p r a c t i c a l l y z e r o .

F i g u r e 7 shows the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l c u m u l a t i v e d i s t r i b u t i o n
for f-Q and H . The c o r r e l a t i o n d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t was c a l c u l a t e d to be
Cq^ = 0. 5 7 . Drag coefficients w e r e c a l c u l a t e d u s i n g the f i f t h o r d e r
g r a v i t y wave t h e o r y f o r a l l l e v e l s of p r o b a b i l i t y and f o r t h i s r e c o r d was
found to be v e r y n e a r l y a constant at C^^ = 0 . 5 7 . T h u s t h e r e i s p e r f e c t
c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of peak d r a g
f o r c e s and the m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n of wave h e i g h t s .

* I t s h o u l d be n o t e d t h a t C^^ i n F i g u r e 4 does not r e p r e s e n t a s t a t i s t i c a l

d i s t r i b u t i o n of C^^ , but r a t h e r values of f o r v a r i o u s l e v e l s of
w a v e f o r c e p r o b a b i l i t y . T h e same i n t e r p r e t a t i o n is g i v e n f o r C
f o r the o t h e r f i g u r e s of the r e p o r t .
206 COASTAL ENGINEERING

DATA FROM
WIEGEL ( 1957 )
TABLE n
WAVES 2 3 - 127
D = 24 INCHES

1
IC)u

80

«
—^
•

3 4 5 6 8 10 1.5 20 30 40 50 60 80 100
f D ( lbs ) ( RANKED )

Figure 8. Eanlced Wave Height vs. Ranked Drag Force

(Correlation between Marginal Distribution of Wave
Height and Marginal Distribution of Drag Force)
 Ja3
99.9 99 95 90 80 TO 60 50 40 30 ZO 10 5 \ 0 2 005 00\

0^ ^t^^^ ^^^^^^ ^'^^^

S EQUAL TO OR GREATER THAN ,ND>CATeD
^^^^^^ 1
Kgure 9 . cumulative Distribution of Wave Height and Drag Force
 H ( ft ) ( R A N K E D )
Figure 10. Ranked Wave Height and Ranked Drag Force
(Correlation between Marginal Distribution of Wave
Height and Mai^nal Distribution of Drag Force)
 WAVE F O R C E 209

F i g u r e 8 g i v e s a p l o t of r a n k e d H and r a n k e d f^^ o r a c o r r e l a t i o n
between the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r the same data of
F i g u r e 6. I t shows a v e r y good d e g r e e of c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n t w o m a r g i n a l
probability distributions.

F i g u r e 9 shows c u m u l a t i v e p r o b a b i l i t y d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r f j ^ and H
b a s e d on data o r i g i n a l l y g i v e n i n an e a r l i e r r e p o r t by W i e g e l (1954). A g a i n
t h e r e i s an e x c e l l e n t c o r r e l a t i o n i n the c o n s t a n c y of d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t f o r
a l l l e v e l s of p r o b a b i l i t i e s , a v e r a g e value b e i n g about ^ j - j ~ -'9.

F i g u r e 10 shows a p l o t of r a n k e d f-^ v e r s u s r a n k e d H o r a
c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l d i s t r i b u t i o n p r e s e n t e d on
l i n e a r p a p e r f o r a n o t h e r wave r e c o r d . F o r l o w wave h e i g h t s i t a p p e a r s
that f ~ H , m o s t l y i n e r t i a l f o r c e ; intermediate heights f ~ , mostly
d r a g f o r c e s ; and f o r l a r g e wave h e i g h t s f ~ H ^ " , r e f l e c t i n g a h i g h
Reynolds number effect.

F i g u r e 11 is a s u m m a r y of d r a g c o e f f i c i e n t s based on F i g u r e s 4,
7 and 9. T w o c u r v e s a r e e s s e n t i a l l y the s a m e f o r a p i l e d i a m e t e r D = 2. 0
f e e t . The o t h e r c u r v e shows a p o s s i b i l i t y on the e f f e c t of p i l e d i a m e t e r ,
but t h i s is not c o n c l u s i v e . A d d i t i o n a l data f o r D = 1 f o o t f r o m the o r i g i n a l
r e p o r t by W i e g e l , et. a l . (1954) have been a n a l y z e d i n a s i m i l a r m a n n e r .
T h e r e s u l t s of t h e s e a n a l y s e s a r e shown i n F i g u r e 12. The a v e r a g e d r a g
c o e f f i c i e n t i s C^^^ = 0. 7, b u t i s not c o n c l u s i v e . F o r the h i g h e r waves
b e c o m e s 0. 5 or l e s s , and is i n b e t t e r a g r e e m e n t w i t h the r e s u l t s f o r
D = 2. 0 f e e t . C o n s i d e r i n g a l l data, C^_^ is about 0. 65 + 20% and C^^
at the one p e r c e n t l e v e l i s about 0 . 5 + 20%.

Data f r o m W i e g e l (1957) ( T a b l e 3) w e r e used to d e t e r m i n e cumula-

t i v e d i s t r i b u t i o n s f o r wave h e i g h t and i n e r t i a l f o r c e s . T h e s e r e s u l t s a r e
s h o w n i n F i g u r e 13. The c o r r e l a t i o n i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t f o r t h i s r e c o r d
was d e t e r m i n e d to be C ^ ^ = 3. 1, u s i n g l i n e a r wave t h e o r y t o c a l c u l a t e
p a r t i c l e a c c e l e r a t i o n . T h e v a r i a t i o n of C from C f o r v a r i o u s levels
of p r o b a b i l i t y i s not s a t i s f a c t o r y . Some o f ^ h i s v a r i a t i o n , p e r h a p s , i s
because the l i n e a r w a v e t h e o r y m i g h t not be s a t i s f a c t o r y f o r c a l c u l a t i n g
particle accelerations. T h e v a l u e of C = 3. 1 i s h i g h e r t h a n the
mr ^
t h e o r e t i c a l v a l u e of 2. 0. W i e g e l c a l c u l a t e d an a v e r a g e value o f C ^ = 2. 5
w i t h a s t a n d a r d d e v i a t i o n of 1. 2, based on m a n y a d d i t i o n a l d a t a not g i v e n i n
T a b l e 3, and a l s o noted t h a t t h i s value of 2. 5 was h i g h e r t h a n g i v e n by
t h e o r y . U s i n g some of W i e g e l ' s data, B o r g m a n (1964) c a l c u l a t e d a
= 5. 1, and a l s o noted t h a t t h i s value was c o n s i d e r a b l y h i g h e r t h a n g i v e n
by t h e o r y , and t h a t " h i g h v a l u e s of C though seem to c h a r a c t e r i z e the
^9
O
Figure 12. Summary oi Coeiikieivls MS, Pexce^t Level,
212 COASTAL ENGINEERING
 WAVE F O R C E 213

D a v e n p o r t data, p a r t i c u l a r l y f o r the l a r g e r w a v e s . " One o t h e r p o s s i b l e

e x p l a n a t i o n i s t h a t the m e a s u r e d v a l u e s of i n e r t i a l f o r c e i n c l u d e l a r g e
second o r d e r c o n t r i b u t i o n s of d r a g f o r c e . T h e d r a g f o r c e i s p r o p o r t i o n a l
to the s q u a r e of the w a v e h e i g h t , and t h i s w o u l d h e l p to e x p l a i n the i n c r e a s e
in calculated w i t h i n c r e a s e i n w a v e h e i g h t . The data a r e not i n s u i t a b l e
f o r m to d e t e r m i n e the e f f e c t of d r a g f o r c e , since the phase p o s i t i o n s a r e
not given.

CONCLUSIONS

1. A l t h o u g h t h e r e m a y be no c o r r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n i n d i v i d u a l
a p p a r e n t wave f o r c e and a p p a r e n t wave h e i g h t , t h e r e c a n be a v e r y good
d e g r e e of c o r r e l a t i o n between the c o r r e s p o n d i n g m a r g i n a l p r o b a b i l i t y
distributions.

2. S t a t i s t i c a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of c a l c u l a t e d d r a g and i n e r t i a l c o e f f i c i e n t s
f r o m m e a s u r e d " a p p a r e n t " wave h e i g h t s and the c o r r e s p o n d i n g " a p p a r e n t "
wave f o r c e s as d e t e r m i n e d i n the past a r e a l m o s t m e a n i n g l e s s t o the d e s i g n
engineer.

3. A v e r a g e v a l u e s o f C-^ and C^ as d e t e r m i n e d i n t h e p a s t
( w e i g h t e d t o w a r d m a n y l o w e r wave h e i g h t s ) w h e n used f o r the d e s i g n wave
( m a x i m u m w a v e s ) s h o u l d be expected to p r e d i c t m a x i m u m p r o b a b l e f o r c e s
on the c o n s e r v a t i v e side of s a f e t y .

4. S t a t i s t i c a l d i s t r i b u t i o n s of wave f o r c e s c o r r e l a t e d w i t h s t a t i s t i c a l
d i s t r i b u t i o n s of w a v e h e i g h t can have a l o t of m e a n i n g and v a l u e to the
design engineer. T h e p r o c e d u r e s used i n t h i s r e p o r t s h o u l d v e i n v e s t i g a t e d
i n g r e a t e r d e t a i l u s i n g new data.

5. T h e c o r r e l a t i o n c o e f f i c i e n t o f d r a g and the c o r r e l a t i o n c o e f f i c i e n t
of i n e r t i a s h o u l d be i n v e s t i g a t e d i n g r e a t e r d e t a i l u s i n g new a n d b e t t e r d a t a
than i s p r e s e n t l y a v a i l a b l e . T h e r e s u l t s of such an a n a l y s i s s h o u l d p e r m i t
the d e s i g n e n g i n e e r to s e l e c t b e t t e r v a l u e s of C.„ and C f o r the d e s i g n
wave. D

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

T h e w o r k p r e s e n t e d h e r e i s p a r t of a l a r g e r r e s e a r c h p r o g r a m on
ocean w a v e s , s u p p o r t e d by the U . S. N a v y B u r e a u of Y a r d s a n d . D o c k s
under contract NBy-45815.

REFERENCES

B o r g m a n , L . E . (1964). " T h e S t a t i s t i c a l D i s t r i b u t i o n of O c e a n Wave

F o r c e s on V e r t i c a l P i l i n g . " U n i v . of C a l i f o r n i a ( B e r k e l e y ) ,
I n s t , of E n g . R e s . , T e c h . R e p o r t H E L - 9 - 3 .
214 COASTAL ENGINEERING

B r e t s c h n e i d e r , C. L . (1957). " E v a l u a t i o n of D r a g and I n e r t i a l C o e f f i c i e n t s

f o r M a x i m u m Range of T o t a l Wave F o r c e . " T e x a s A & M
R e s e a r c h Foundation, Tech. Report No. 55-5.

B r e t s c h n e i d e r , C. L . , G. S. P i c k and J. I . C o l l i n s {1965). " G r a v i t y Wave

and W a v e F o r c e T h e o r y , M e a s u r e m e n t s , and D a t a A n a l y s i s : State
of the A r t . " NESCO T e c h n i c a l R e p o r t S N - 9 8 , V o l . I ( U n p u b l i s h e d ) .

I v e r s e n , H . W . a n d R . B a l e n t (19 51). " A C o r r e l a t i n g M o d u l u s f o r F l u i d

R e s i s t a n c e i n A c c e l e r a t e d M o t i o n . " J o u r n a l of A p p l i e d P h y s i c s ,
V o l . 22, N o . 3.

L o n g u e t - H i g g i n s , M . S. (1952). " O n the S t a t i s t i c a l D i s t r i b u t i o n of the

H e i g h t s of Sea W a v e s . " J o u r n a l of M a r i n e R e s e a r c h , V o l . X I ,
No. 3. , pp. 3 4 5 - 3 6 6 .

M o r i s o n , J . R . , M . P . O ' B r i e n , J . W. Johnson, and S. A . Schaaf (1950).

" T h e F o r c e E x e r t e d by S u r f a c e Waves on P i l e s . " P e t r o l . T r a n s . ,
A I M E , V o l . 189, T . P . N o . 2846, pp. 149-154.

P i e r s o n , W. J . , G. N e u m a n n and R. W. J a m e s (1955). " O b s e r v i n g and

F o r e c a s t i n g Ocean Waves by Means of Wave S p e c t r a and S t a t i s t i c s . "
H y d r o g r a p h i c O f f i c e P u b l i c a t i o n N o . 603, U . S. N a v y , 284 pp.

P u t z , R. R . (1952). " S t a t i s t i c a l D i s t r i b u t i o n f o r Ocean W a v e s . " Trans. ,

A . G. i r . , V o l . 33, N o . 5, pp. 6 8 5 - 6 9 2 .

R e i d , R. O. and C. L . B r e t s c h n e i d e r (1953). " S u r f a c e Waves and O f f s h o r e

S t r u c t u r e s : T h e D e s i g n Wave i n Deep o r S h a l l o w W a t e r , S t o r m
T i d e , and F o r c e s on V e r t i c a l P i l i n g and L a r g e S u b m e r g e d O b j e c t s . "
Texas A & M Research Foundation, Tech. Report.

S k j e l b r i e a , L . , J. A . H e n d r i c k s o n , W. G r a g g and L . M . Webb ( I 9 6 0 ) .
" L o a d i n g on C y l i n d r i c a l P i l i n g s due to the A c t i o n of O c e a n W a v e s . "
NESCO T e c h n i c a l R e p o r t , 4 v o l u m e s .

W a t t e r s , J. K . A . (1953). " D i s t r i b u t i o n of H e i g h t i n Ocean W a v e s . "

New Z e a l a n d J o u r n a l of Science and T e c h n o l o g y , Sect. B . , V o l .
34, pp. 4 0 8 - 4 2 2 .

W e i b u l l , W . (1591). " A S t a t i s t i c a l D i s t r i b u t i o n F u n c t i o n of W i d e A p p l i c a -
b i l i t y . " A S M E A p p l i e d M e c h a n i c s D i v . , paper p r e s e n t e d at A S M E
A n n u a l M e e t i n g , 1951.

W i e g e l , R. L . , K . E . Beebe, a n d R . W. B a r r y (1954). " O c e a n W a v e

F o r c e s on P i l e s . " U n i v . of C a l i f o r n i a , Wave R e s e a r c h L a b o r a t o r y ,
S e r i e s 37, I s s u e 9.

W i e g e l , R. L . , K . E . Beebe, and J. M o o n (1957). "Ocean Wave F o r c e s

on C i r c u l a r C y l i n d r i c a l P i l e s . " P r o c . P a p e r 1199, H y d r a u l i c s
D i v . , A S C E , pp. 1 1 9 9 - 1 - 3 6 .
 WAVE F O R C E 215

TABLE 1

WAVE HEIGHT A N D DRAG FORCE DISTRIBUTIONS

(Data f r o m W i e g e l , et. a l . , 1957)

H n P n P
^D
4. 1 - 5 1 1 1 0 - 5 1 1 1
5. 1 - 6 8 9 9 1 5 1-10 32 33 33. 3
6. 1 - 7 13 22 22 2 10. 1-15 22 55 55. 6
7. 1 - 8 17 39 39 4 15. 1-20 11 66 66. 7
8. 1 - 9 25 64 64. 6 20. 1-25 U 77 77. 8
9. 1-10 15 79 79. 8 25. 1-30 6 83 83. 8
10.1-11 2 81 81. 8 30. 1-35 1 84 84. 8
11. 1-12 3 84 84. 8 35. 1-40 4 88 88. 9
12. 1-13 3 87 87. 9 40. 1-45 1 89 89. 9
13.1-14 4 91 91. 9 45. 1-50 2 91 91. 9
14. 1-15 2 93 93. 9 50. 1-55 3 94 94. 9
15. 1-16 55. 1-60 3 97 98. 0
16.1-17 1 94 94. 9 60. 1-65 1 98 99. 0
17. 1-18 2 96 97. 0
18. 1-19 1 97 98. 0
19. 1-20
20. 1-21 1 98 99. 0

d 48 f t . NOTE: A l l c a l c u l a t i o n s m a d e by
slide rule
S 42. 5 f t .
D 1.0 f t .
9.5 f t .
Hr
18 l b s .
iDa
T 14. 5 sec.
0. 75
^Dr
216 COASTAL ENGINEERING

TABLE 2

WAVE HEIGHT A N D DRAG FORCE DISTRIBUTIONS

(Data f r o m W i e g e l , et. a l . , 1957)

H n P n E- P
^D
5. 1 - 6 4 4 4. 1 0 - 5
6. 1 - 7 7 11 11.2 5. 1-10 9 9 9. 2
7. 1 - 8 18 29 29. 6 10. 1-15 24 33 33. 6
8. 1 - 9 24 53 54. 0 15. 1-20 19 52 53. 0
9. 1-10 20 73 74. 5 20. 1-25 13 65 66. 3
10. 1-11 14 87 88. 5 25. 1-30 16 81 82. 6
11. 1-12 7 94 96. 0 30. 1-35 10 91 92. 8
12. 1-13 3 97 98. 9 35. 1-40
40. 1-45
45. 1-50

d = 4 7 ft.
S = 3 3 ft.
D = 2 . 0 ft.
H^ = 9. 1 f t .
f^ = 20. 3 l b s .
_pa
T = 13. 4 sec.

^Dr =
 WAVE F O R C E 217

TABLE 3

WAVE HEIGHT AND I N E R T I A L FORCE DISTRIBUTIONS

( D a t a f r o m W i e g e l , et. a l . 1957)

H n P f. n P
1

5 1-6 7 7 4. 6 5 1-10 1 1 0 67
6 1-7 10 17 11. 3 10 1-15 13 14 9 35
7 1-8 26 43 28. 5 15 1-20 13 27 18 0
8 1-9 32 75 49. 6 20 1-25 19 46 30 6
9 1-10 36 111 73. 5 25 1-30 33 79 52 6
10 1-11 24 135 89. 2 30 1-35 26 105 70 0
11 1-12 13 148 98. 1 35 1-40 14 119 79 2
12 1-13 2 150 99. 3 40 1-45 13 132 87 8
45 1-50 9 141 94 0
50 1-55 4 145 96 8
55 1-60 2 147 98 0
60 1-65
65 1-70
70 1-75
75 1-80 1 148 98 6
80 1-85 1 149 99 4

d = 47 f t .
S = 33 f t .
D =24 in.
H^ = 9 . 1 ft.
f. = 33. 0 l b s .
ir
T = 13. 3 sec.
C = 3. 1
mr