Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda).

This mild alkali powder can be used for a variety of

household cleaning purposes, such as removing stains from tile, glass, oven doors, and china;
cleaning the inside of refrigerators; helping to absorb odors; and removing baked-on food from
pans. It also acts as a stain remover for fruit juices and other mild acids.

Borax. A powder or crystalline salt sold in most grocery stores, borax is a water softener and
sanitizer. It makes an excellent freshener when added to laundry and is an all-around
deodorizer.

Castile soap. A mild soap available in liquid or bar form that can be used for general-purpose
cleaning. It was once made from olive oil, but now may include other vegetable oils as well.

Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate). This common baking ingredient is a mild acid that can
be used as a sink and bathtub stain remover. It can also be used to remove spots from
aluminum cookware.

Hydrogen peroxide. A mild alternative to chlorine bleach that can be used for stain removal
and mild bleaching and killing germs. Available in drug stores and supermarkets.

Lemon juice. This familiar ingredient can be used to lighten stains and cut grease. It can also be
used to remove tarnish can be used on brass, copper, bronze and aluminum (not to be used on
silver).

Washing soda (carbonate of soda). A stronger alternative to baking soda, washing soda can be
used as a water softener in conjunction with laundry detergents (gloves are recommended as it
may irritate skin; not to be used with silks, woolens or vinyl).

White vinegar. Good for a variety of household cleaning tasks, vinegar may be used to help kill
germs and deodorize, remove some carpet stains, and clean coffeemakers, chrome, cookware,
and countertops. It can also be used to unclog drains. Note that while white vinegar has a slight
scent while wet, when dry, it leaves no odor. However, don’t use it on acetate fabrics, such as
in some tablecloths, because it can dissolve the fibers.

KITCHEN:
•Countertops. For a “soft scrub,” mix baking soda and liquid soap until you get a consistency
you like. The amounts don’t have to be perfect. Make only as much as you need, as it dries up
quickly.
•Ovens. To clean extra-greasy ovens, mix together 1 cup baking soda and 1/4 cup of washing
soda, then add enough water to make a paste; apply the paste to oven surfaces and let soak
overnight. The next morning, lift off soda mixture and grime; rinse surfaces well (gloves are
recommended as washing soda may irritate skin).
•Microwave ovens. These can be cleaned with a paste made from 3 to 4 tablespoons of baking
soda mixed with water. Scrub on with a sponge and rinse.
•Cutting boards. Sanitize them by spraying with vinegar and then with 3 percent hydrogen
peroxide. Keep the liquids in separate spray bottles and use them one at a time. It doesn’t
matter which one you use first, but both together are much more effective than either one
alone.

BATHROOM:
•Tub and tile cleaner. Mix 1 2/3 cup baking soda, 1/2 cup liquid soap, and 1/2 cup water. Then,
as the last step, add 2 tablespoons vinegar (if you add the vinegar too early it will react with the
baking soda). Immediately apply, wipe, and scrub.
•A good all-purpose sanitizer. 2 teaspoons borax, 4 tablespoons vinegar, and 3 to 4 cups hot
water in a spray bottle. For extra cleaning power, add 1/4 teaspoon liquid soap to the mixture.
•Toilet bowl. Pour 1 cup of borax into the toilet before going to bed. In the morning, scrub and
flush. For an extra-strength cleaner, add 1/4 cup vinegar to the borax.
•Drains. Prevent clogged drains by using hair and food traps. To de-grease and sweeten sink
and tub drains, pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down drain, followed by 1 cup vinegar; let bubble
for 15 minutes; rinse with hot water. You might have to repeat the procedure more than once
or leave the baking soda and vinegar to “cook” overnight.

LIVING ROOM:
•General dusting. Best done with a damp cloth: Dry dusting simply stirs up dust and moves it
around.
•Furniture polish. Mix olive oil and vinegar in a one-to-one ratio and polish with a soft cloth. Or
look in a health-food store for food-grade linseed oil, often called omega-3 or flaxseed oil,
rather than the type found in hardware stores to finish furniture. Linseed oil sold for furniture
use often contains dangerous petroleum distillates to speed evaporation.
•Windows. Put 3 tablespoons vinegar per 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Some recommend
using half vinegar and half water. For extra-dirty windows try this: 1/2 teaspoon liquid soap, 3
tablespoons vinegar, and 2 cups of water. Shake well. The best way to get streak-free windows?
Use newspaper instead of paper towels to wipe them.

METAL POLISH:
•Brass, copper, bronze and aluminum. To remove tarnish, rub metal with sliced lemons. For
tough jobs, sprinkle baking soda on the lemon, then rub.
•Sterling silver. Put a sheet of aluminum foil into a plastic or glass bowl. Sprinkle the foil with
salt and baking soda, then fill the bowl with warm water. Soak your silver in the bowl, and the
tarnish will migrate to the aluminum foil. Rinse and dry the silver, then buff it with a soft cloth.

AIR FRESHENER:
•A simple recipe of 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon vinegar (or lemon juice), and 2 cups hot
water in a spray bottle can be spritzed in the air to remove odors.

FLOORS AND CARPETS:

•Linoleum. For extra grease-cutting, try this formula: 1/4 cup washing soda with 1 tablespoon
of liquid soap, 1/4 cup vinegar, and 2 gallons hot water. Put the washing soda in the bucket first
and add the liquid ingredients; that way the soda won’t splash out. Caution: Do not use this
formula on waxed floors.
•Sanitize floors. Add 2 gallons of hot water to 1/2 cup of borax. Put the borax in the bucket
first, then add water slowly to avoid splashing.
•Wood floors. Add 1 cup of vinegar per pail of hot water.
•Carpeting and rugs. To soak up and eliminate odors, sprinkle baking soda over the surface of
the carpet and let it stand for 15 to 30 minutes before vacuuming.

LAUNDRY:
•Laundry brightener. Add 1/2 cup of strained lemon juice during the rinse cycle.
•Fabric rinse. Add 1/4 cup of white vinegar during the washing machine’s rinse cycle to remove
detergent completely from clothes, eliminating that scratchy feel. (Note: This will not leave
your clothes smelling like vinegar.)
•Detergent booster. To reduce the amount of laundry detergent you need to use (especially if
you have hard water ) add baking soda or washing soda. These minerals soften the water,
which increases the detergent’s power. For liquid detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda at the
beginning of the wash. For powdered detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda during the rinse cycle.
•Bleach. Use hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine bleach.
•Dry cleaning. Many delicate “dry clean only” items can be washed at home by hand. In
general, it’s best to use cool water and a mild liquid soap. Squeeze or wring gently and lay flat
to dry.

MOLD:
•Use a stiff brush, a non-ammonia detergent, and hot water to scrub mold off nonporous
surfaces. Use a stiff-bristle toothbrush to get between tiles. You can also use a paste of baking
soda and water. Don’t rinse. And remember to wear gloves and a protective mask, since mold
spores can be inhaled.

BUYING AND USING COMMERCIAL CLEANING PRODUCTS

A growing number of less-toxic commercial cleaning products are now available in stores and
online. However, because manufacturers are not required to list all of their ingredients, unless
they are active disinfectants or known to be potentially hazardous, it can be a challenge to find
the least-toxic formulations. The following steps can help:

1. Know the warning labels. All household cleaners that contain known hazardous chemicals
must carry a warning label that spells out potential risks, along with precautionary steps and
first-aid instructions . In general, the more serious the safety warning on a product, the more
likely that it poses risks to your health and the environment. Products labeled “Poison” or
“Danger” are more toxic than those labeled “Warning” or “Caution”:

“Danger” refers to products that are corrosive, extremely flammable, highly toxic, or
poisonous. Commercial toilet-bowl, oven, and drain cleaners often bear this label.

“Caution” or “Warning” are catchall terms for many other hazards, so scan for specifics, such
as “Vapor harmful,” “Causes burns,” or “May be fatal or cause blindness if swallowed.”

“Irritants” refer to substances that cause injury or inflammation on contact.

“Corrosives” refer to chemicals that destroy tissue.

“Sensitizers” are ingredients that can cause allergic reactions and chronic adverse health effects
that become evident only after continuing exposures.

“Chronic Health Hazards” may include effects ranging from sterility and birth defects to cancer.

2. Don’t assume that environmental and health claims are true. In many cases, manufacturers
can make claims that are neither independently verified nor regulated. Among the most
common claims found on cleaning products are the following:

•Nontoxic. This implies that the product will cause no harm to the consumer or environment.
However, there is currently no standard definition for the term nontoxic, and unless otherwise
specified, there is no organization independently verifying the claim.

•Natural. Though widely found on commercial cleaning products, the term natural doesn’t
necessarily mean much. There’s no standard definition for this claim in industry, so
manufacturers can use it as they please. What’s more, just because something is “natural”
doesn’t mean it’s less toxic, or non-irritating. Even cleaners that are safe enough to eat, like
lemon juice, can be irritating to the eyes or skin.

•Environmentally friendly. While this label implies that the product or packaging has some kind
of environmental benefit or that it causes no harm to the environment, there is currently no
standard definition for term . Unless otherwise specified, there is also no organization
independently verifying this claim.

•Biodegradable. This term is somewhat meaningful, but it can be misleading. biodegradable,

which implies that a product or its packaging will break down in nature in a reasonably short
period of time, has been only loosely defined by the federal government.

3. Check the ingredient list. Since manufacturers are not required to list all the ingredients in
their cleaning products, unless they are active disinfectants or known to be potentially
hazardous, it can be difficult to know exactly what you’re buying. And bear in mind that unlike
food package labels, when a cleaning product’s ingredients are listed, the order doesn’t
necessarily represent relative amounts. Companies that claim to disclose their full list of
ingredients include Ecover, Trader Joe’s and Seventh Generation. Visit our d to see how they
performed.

4. Avoid harmful ingredients whenever possible. Certain chemicals found in cleaning products
can pose health and/or environmental risks. To minimize these risks and to choose the best
cleaners for your household, avoid the ingredients listed below. And stay posted for our
upcoming report to be published in mid-March on how to clean up your indoor air.

•Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs). When they’re released into the environment, these
chemicals can break down into toxic substances that can act as hormone disrupters, potentially
threatening the reproductive capacity of fish, birds, and mammals. A recent U.S Geological
Survey study found that 69 percent of streams tested in one Southeastern U.S. locale contained
these potentially dangerous byproducts.

•Antibacterials. Some antibacterial ingredients may cause skin and eye irritation, and certain
types, such as triclosan, now found widely in the environment, may cause environmental harm
by contributing to the emergence of antibiotic resistant bacteria. Some studies have also
suggested that triclosan could form dioxin, a carcinogen, in the presence of sunlight, and
chloroform, a probable human carcinogen, in the presence of chlorinated water. What’s more,
there’s a growing consensus that antibacterial household cleaners won’t keep you any safer
from infectious illnesses than regular types. These findings may stem in part from the fact that
most infections are caused by viruses, not bacteria. In fact, experts say, it’s not the type of
cleaner that matters in combating germs, but the frequency and thoroughness of cleaning;
plain soap and hot water are generally enough to do the job. Found in a variety of household
cleaners; many products that carry the “antibacterial” label are actually disinfectants (see
disinfectants below).

•Ammonia. Poisonous when swallowed, extremely irritating to respiratory passages when

inhaled; can burn skin on contact. (Note: Never mix ammonia-containing products with chlorine
bleach. That produces a poisonous gas.) Found in floor, bathroom, tile, and glass cleaners.
•Butyl cellosolve (also known as butyl glycol, ethylene glycol, monobutyl). Poisonous when
swallowed and a lung tissue irritant. Found in glass cleaners and all-purpose cleaners.

•Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite). Extremely irritating to the lungs and eyes. (Note:
Never mix chlorine bleach products with ammonia. That produces a poisonous gas.) Sold by
itself and found in a variety of household cleaners.

•d-limonene. Can irritate the skin. Found in air fresheners.

•Diethanolamine (DEA) & triethanolamine (TEA). These ingredients can produce carcinogenic
compounds, which can penetrate the skin when combined with nitrosomes, an often-
undisclosed preservative or contaminant. Some products are labeled DEA-free or TEA-Free,
which are considered to be somewhat meaningful labels by CU. Found in sudsing products,
including detergents and cleaners.
•Disinfectants. This is a catchall term for a variety of active ingredients, including chlorine
bleach, alcohol, quaternary compounds, and pine oil and ethyl alcohol. They are regulated by
the EPA as pesticides and all have some health effects. Most can also cause problems in
waterways by killing helpful bacteria. Found in a variety of household cleaners; many products
that carry the “antibacterial” label are also disinfectants.

•Fragrances. May cause water eyes and respiratory tract irritation. Some products are labeled
fragrance free which CU does not consider to be a meaningful label. Found in a variety of
cleaners and air fresheners.

•Hydrochloric acid. Can severely burn skin, irritate eyes and respiratory tract. Found in toilet
bowl cleaners.

•Naptha. Can cause headaches, nausea, and central-nervous-system symptoms with

overexposure. Found in furniture and floor polish and glass cleaners.

•Petroleum-based ingredients. Many ingredients are derived from petroleum, including some
of those above such as APEs and naptha, and they’re commonly found in many cleaning
products as surfactants. Other toxic ingredients derived from petroleum, including
formaldehyde, can also be present at trace levels in cleaning products. Found in a variety of
household cleaners.

•Phosphates. Can reach waterways and contribute to the overgrowth of algae and aquatic
weeds, which can kill off fish populations and other aquatic life. Some products are labeled
phosphate free, which is considered to be a somewhat meaningful label by CU. Found in
automatic dishwasher detergents and some laundry detergents.
•Sodium hydroxide (lye). Corrosive and extremely irritating to eyes, nose, and throat and can
burn those tissues on contact. Found in drain, metal, and oven cleaners.

•Sulfuric acid. Can severely damage eyes, lungs, and skin. Found in drain cleaners.

5. If you’re concerned about specific ingredients in a product, call the company. The
manufacturer’s name and address must be listed on all cleaning products so that consumers
can contact them with questions, comments, or problems. While manufacturers are not
required to disclose all of their ingredients, unless they’re active disinfectants or known to be
potentially hazardous, you can try to request a material safety data sheet (MSDS), which
contains information on the more-toxic ingredients or formulations used. Manufacturers may
also post MSDS reports on their Web sites. You can search for safety information on brand-
specific products and their ingredients by visiting the National Library of Medicine’s Household
Products Database. The guide includes the potential health effects of more than 2,000
ingredients contained in 6,000 common household products.

Play it safe. Whether you’re using commercial or homemade cleaners, it’s important to follow
safety precautions. Avoid splashing household cleaners on your skin or in your face and check
labels to see if respiratory masks, rubber gloves, goggles, or other protective measures are
recommended. People with heart or lung disease and pregnant women should try to avoid
products that contain chemical solvents. And since contact lenses can absorb vapors and hold
them against the eye, causing irritation or eye damage, anyone who normally wears contacts
should remove them and put on eyeglasses before handling such products. If you find that the
cleaners you’re using irritate your nose, eyes and/or lungs, follow your instincts and stop using
them. Finally, be sure to clearly label containers of homemade cleaners, and keep all cleaners
out of reach of children and pets.