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INTERNSHIP AT SONAL APPAREL PRIVATE.

LTD 2018

APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT


AT
SONAL APPAREL PVT. LTD

SUBMITTED BY:
AKANKSHA GUPTA

BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (Apparel


Production)

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF


MR. TVS MURTHY
2018
Department of Fashion Technology National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Hyderabad

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INTERNSHIP AT SONAL APPAREL PRIVATE.LTD 2018

PREFACE
This report is written as a part of our Apparel Internship project for our bachelor’s of Fashion
Technology at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad..

Part of the education is to get the first hands on experience about garment manufacturing from a
manufacturing plant. SONAL APPAREL PVT LTD. It gave me a chance to do a research and
analyse their production process. For 3 months period, I stayed in Bangalore to perform these
studies which was a fantastic opportunity for me .

I would like to thank everyone who helped us in this project.

SAPL was a perfect opportunity for me to develop the knowledge and know how of factory
operations in garment sector. It was a great Opportunity to implement the knowledge we gained
at university in a professional organization. An Interstate Learning and working experience was
a great fun. What really surprised us was the hospitality of the industrial Culture. It really was a
warm welcome and I would love to experience it again one day.

Hope you’ll enjoy reading my report.


Akanksha Gupta

NIFT – Hyderabad, September 2018

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to thank Mr. Naveen Aggarwal, Director at Sonal, Bangalore for giving me this
wonderful opportunity to do an internship within the organization. For me it was a unique
experience to be in Bangalore and to study the factory operation of garment Export Company. It
helped in a great way in triggering my interest in factory operations and management of
Apparel Business.

I am highly thankful to our distinctive faculty mentor Mr.TVS Murthy, under whose
guidance I was able to complete my Apparel Internship Successfully.

Last but not the least I am extremely thankful to Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT
Hyderabad for providing us this wonderful leaning experience and opportunity.

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S.NO. CHAPTER PAGE NO

1.0 ABOUT THE COMPANY 6

1.1 COMPANY PROFILE 7

1.2 CLIENTELE 08

1.3 COMPANY POLICIES 09

1.4 ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE 1

2.0 PROCESS STUDY 18

2.1 PURCHASE DEPT 20

2.2 FABRIC STORE DEPT. 23

2.3 TRIM DEPT. 37

2.4 CAD DEPARTMENT 52

2.5 CUTTING DEPT. 57

2.6 SEWING DEPT. 64

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2.7 SAMPLING DEPT. 74

2.8 WAREHOUSE 86

2.9 EMBROIDERY / PRINTING DEPARTMENT 90

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ABOUT THE COMPANY:


Not just another garment manufacturing company Sonal Apparel Private Limited goes beyond
garment export. The company is all about people, all about relationships. Incorporated in 1976,
Sonal has grown one of the largest trading house in India. The infrastructure has its head-office
in Mumbai, Maharashtra and the branch office in Bangalore’Karnataka.

SAPL UNIT1 was established in 2011. SAPL currently have three production units in Bangalore
itself and the main head office is in Mumbai (lower parel). They have a machinery setup for
around 2000 machines with the production capacity of 1.2 million units/month.

Though Sonal entered into the garment manufacturing and export business in 1976 but there was
a shutdown in 2007 due to family disputes. In 2011 SAPL (Sonal Apparel Pvt. Ltd) was born and
since its inception, the company has become one of the best choices for manufacturing of
apparels.

With a management team that has years of experience in apparel manufacturing and export,
SAPL Industries is a company that understands both, the business and creative aspect of the
fashion industry. Their focus remains on impeccable quality, cost competitiveness and social
accountability, clients have always benefited from our keen interest in latest trends and fashion
forecasts. Over the years they became one-stop-shop, catering to an extensive range of apparel
categories for men, women and children.

Today, they boast of a presence in major cities including Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi, and London
and Barcelona - with a skilled workforce force of over 5,000 people and partnerships with top
brands across Europe and USA.

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COMPANY PROFILE

Year of establishment 1976

Products produced Women’s wear, Men’s wear, Kid s wear

Business type Manufacturer, Private Limited

Scandinavian countries, Australia, North and


Geographic Markets South America

Mode of fabrication 100% outsourced

Total Area 150000 sq. mt

Total Workforce 1500

Annual turnover 297 cr.

Production 1.2 million unit/month

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THE CLIENTELE:
SAPL boasts a clientele which is diversified geographically as well as in corporate manner. It has
customers from Australia to North America , from Scandinavia to South America.This has been
a result of consistently addressing customer needs, vertical integration across the value chain
allowing for shorter lead times and geographically hedged manufacturing capabilities.

Sonal has vast quota holdings in most apparel categories backed with compliance certification
from prestigious agencies such as oko-tex and J.C Penny.

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COMPLIANCE POLICIES:
SAPL takes great care in their state of the art facilities and the factories compliant with the most
stringent quality standards in the world.

 OKO -TEX Standard 100 : for compliance to the human ecological requirements of the
presently established standard. This is issues by Testex in Zurich , by the institute of the
International Association For Research and Testing in the field of Textile Technology.

 J.C PENNY CERTIFICATION: Three of the units certified by JC PENNY for its
production.

 KSA TECHNOPARK PRODUCTIVITY ENGINEERING: Certified for world class


production and quality.

 CERTIFICATE FOR POLLUTION CONTROL: For environmental friendly


operations. All the factories owned by Sonal is certified by the State Pollution Control
Board and is given “Certificate for pollution control for environment friendly
operations”.

 SOCIAL ACCOUNTABILITY: Deals with welfare of labor. This stands for social
Accountability. Sonal is in the process of acquiring this compliance from the council on
economic priorities accreditation agency based in the USA. It is based on insurance of
labor welfare. This is highly prestigious compliance , which has international recognition.

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COMPLIANCE ISSUES FOLLOWED IN THE INDUSTRY:

DISPLAYS:

❏ Factory Act Abstract

❏ Minimum Wages Abstract

❏ The Payment of Wages Abstract

❏ The Payment of Gratuity Abstract

❏ The Maternity Benefit Act Abstract

❏ The Payment of Bonus Abstract

❏ Weekly Holiday Notice

❏ Notice Nearest Hospital, Fire Station, Police Station etc.

❏ Notice Important Officials Phone Numbers

❏ Form V (National & Festival Holiday)

❏ Standing Order (Tamil & English)

❏ Needle Control Policy

❏ Voluntary Work Policy

❏ Sexual Harrasment Policy

❏ Health and Safety Policy

❏ Child labor abolishment policy

❏ Anti discrimination policy

❏ Urgent Business need policy

❏ Zero abusement policy

❏ Working hours policy

❏ Hiring / Recruitment policy

❏ Environmental policy

❏ Security policy

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❏ Buyers code of conduct

❏ Workmen Committee Members Photo with Name

❏ Health & Safety Committee Members Photo with Name

❏ Canteen Members Photo with Name

❏ Transport Committee Members Photo with Name

❏ with Name

❏ Organization Chart with manpower details

❏ Weekly Holiday Announcement

Building

❏ Name Sign to All Rooms / Area

❏ Indicators / Direction from Security Gate onwards

❏ Storage above Storage limit Carton Box etc.

❏ Aisle marking

❏ Aisle width minimum 112 cm.

❏ Indicators Arrows in the passage

HEALTH

❏ Drinking Water

❏ At least 4.5 Litres water provided per day per employee

❏ Water Testing Certificate

❏ Drinking Water, Cup availability

❏ Drinking Water centre (one place to every 150 employees upto 500)

❏ Drinking Water centre (one place to every 500 employees above 500)

❏ Water Cooler / Heater available at canteen

❏ Drinking Water Signage in English and Kannada

❏ Drinking Water vessel cleaned at least once in a day

❏ Water Reservoir or Tank Cleaned at least once in a week

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❏ Water centre cleaning condition

❏ Water Vessel Cleaning log sheet

❏ Water Centre Incharge person with cleanliness

❏ Suggestion Box Register

TOILETS:

❏ All toilet seat with proper privacy and lock facility

❏ Effective water Sewage system

❏ Soap/ Towel

❏ Bathroom Lock

❏ Water tap

❏ Dust Bins

❏ Buckets with mug at toilets

❏ Toilet White Washed once in every four month

❏ Tiles/Mosaic floors washed with Detergent or disinfectant once in four month

❏ Daily Cleaning Log sheet provided

❏ Adequate Water Tabs

❏ No smoking Sign in Gents Toilet

❏ Awareness Quotes in Toilets

❏ Ladies / Gents Toilet Name Sign in Dual Language and Picture

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ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE:

MANAGING DIRECTOR MR. NAVEEN AGGARWAL

GM MR. ROZARIO

MERCHANDISING MANAGER MR. DEEPAK RAO

QUALITY MANAGER MR. MILAN GR

PRODUCTION MANAGER MR. GURUMURTHY

FINANCE HEAD MR. MRINMAY GHOSH

ADMIN HEAD MR NARAYAN KUTTY

HR HEAD MR. RANGRAJ

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FLOOR LAYOUT:
The building is divided in ground floor, first floor, second floor third floor , fourth floor and the
terrace.

GROUND FLOOR FABRIC STORE


ADMIN DEPARTMENT
SPREADING DEPARTMENT
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
CAD ROOM
SAMPLE FABRIC ROOM
TESTING LABORATORY
QA ROOM
RECEPTION
ADMINISTRATION DEPARTMENT
PRINTING DEPARTMENT
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
FIRST FLOOR HR DEPARTMENT
IT DEPARTMENT
MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
QUALITY DEPARTMENT
PRODUCTION FLOOR
FINISHING / PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
GENERAL MANAGER CABIN
FACTORY MANAGER CABIN
POCKET SETTER ROOM
IE CABIN
SECOND FLOOR PRODUCTION FLOOR
IRONING SECTION
FINISHING/PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

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THIRD FLOOR PRODUCTION FLOOR


SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
DESIGN DEPARTMENT
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
FINISHING / PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

FOURTH FLOOR BUYER MEETING ROOM


CANTEEN

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PROCESS STUDY:
PURCHASE DEPARTMENT:
The primary objective of the purchasing department is to obtain the right matters in the right
quality, at the right time and price. Since purchased matters are the largest components in the
cost of garment purchasing is an extremely important and specialist function within a clothing
company. The purchase department is located in the head office , is a centralized department and
hence follows centralized purchasing system.

The main functions of a purchase department are:

 Deciding on items to be purchased based on demand


 Selection of sources of suppliers
 Collecting of price information
 Placing the order
 Checking the invoice
 Maintenance of purchase records
 Maintenance of vendor relations

PURCHASE PROCEDURES IN SAPL:

Purchase Requisition: It is a written report requested to the purchase department by an


authorized office of user department to replenish the material needed. The purchase requisition
indicates the type , quantity and quality of an item to be purchased.

Bill of Materials: It is a specification list prepared by merchandiser. It shows a complete


schedule of parts and material required for a particular job or order together with necessary
blueprint or drawings.

Selection of Suppliers: In selecting sources of supply , the purchase department considers the
following points:

 Open tender notices


 Analysis of tenders called for
 Selecting appropriate source

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 In case of detailed supplier list by the buyer , the purchase department purchases the
material from the specified supplier

Placing the Purchase Order and its follow up: when the purchase department concludes
negotiations relating to appropriate source of supply and finally settles on a supplier , a purchase
order is placed. It becomes a legal contract , if it is submitted in acceptance to a formal quotation
or offer.
Receiving and Inspecting material: This is done by comparison of purchase order and delivery
note of supplier.

Checking inward invoices and passing them for payment: If an invoice is correct in all
respects, the purchase officer passes the invoice to the accounts section for payment . If goods
are received short , a debit note is sent to supplier. If goods are in excess quantity credit note is
sent to supplier.

Passing the material to stores: Since it is a centralized purchasing system , all the material
ordered with respect to a style are passed onto the centralized store in the Head office.

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LIST OF MAJOR SUPPLIERS:


 FABRIC SUPPLIERS
 Saheli textiles, Ahmedabad
 Anbu textiles, Madurai
 SRS Textile, Coimbatore
 Annapurna Fashions, Coimbatore
 Sree Raghavendra Tex, Chittor
 Rajesh Textile Agency , Mumbai

 THREAD SUPPLIERS:
 Kapoor Enterprises , Bangalore
 Shakti Trading, Bangalore
 Madura Coats, Bangalore
 Yash Marketing,Bangalore

 LABEL SUPPLIERS:
 Prime Labels, Bangalore
 Mahaveer labels, Bangalore
 Angels Labels, Bangalore

 NEEDLE SUPPLIERS
 Needles marketing,Bangalore

 MACHINE AND SPARE PARTS SUPPLIERS:


 Mahaveer Industries
 Indrajeet International, Bangalore
 Needles Marketing, Bangalore
 Srimake Electricals

 HANGARS AND SIZE BUTTON SUPPLIERS:


 Mainetti , Chennai
 Bright Rim, Mumbai
 Arjun Plastics, Bangalore

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 POLYBAG SUPPLIERS
1. Trimurti Polychem, Bangalore
2. JJ Polymers, Pondicherry
3. Mahalakshmi Enterprises, Bangalore
4. Anu Polybags, Bangalore

 CARTON SUPPLIERS
 Unique Crafts, Bangalore
 Asha Kiran Packaging, Bangalore
 JB Enterprises, Bangalore

 PRINTING DYE SUPPLIERS


 Zydec chemicals, Bangalore

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FABRIC STORE:
INTRODUCTION:
For a bulk production industry it is essential to maintain a well-organized & well equipped
inventory system. The main responsibility of this department is to store all the raw material
necessary to produce garments. The general processes involved in a store are:
 Receiving Fabric roll
Fabrics are supplied in roll package. Once these rolls of fabric are delivered the store in-
charge receives the incoming consignment. This is the first phenomenon which is done in
fabric store.

 In-house Inventory
Once these rolls are received, the store in-charge matches the packing list of the fabric
consignment with the original quantity of the fabric rolls (i.e. fabric width, fabric length).
He also keeps the all the record in a log book. This inventory may be done alone by the
store in-charge or with the presence of a representative of the fabric supplier.

 Cutting for inspection At the time of inventory a piece of fabric is cut from every roll.
The piece is of full width of the fabric and of a length depending on. These cut piece is
send for inspection tests like shrinkage, blanket making for shade segregation.

The complete information regarding the fabric roll which comes inward is mentioned on Fabric
index Board.

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FUNCTIONS OF THE STORE:

The fabric stores department is centralized in apparel industry and all the fabric comes to SAPL
central warehouse first from the supplier and audited there and kept until it is distributed to other
units. The reports are sent to the fabric store individually.

For an export oriented and bulk production garment industry it is essential to maintain a well-
organized & well equipped inventory system.

The main responsibility of this department is to store all the raw material necessary to produce
garments. Store keeper follows a strong and appropriate working procedure.

LEAD TIME FOR A LOT: 3 DAYS FROM DAY OF RECEIVING TO PUTTING INTO THE
RACK.

PROCEDURE:

1) First a roll is received in the purchase department, it is wrapped individually in a gunny


bag.
2) Once the packaging is removed, a length of 10 cm of the full width of is cut for the CSV
testing and shade grouping.
3) Then, one roll of each color and type, is taken and 1.5 meters is sent for testing.
4) Two swatches of each fabric is cut and sent to the head office for matching, (whether or
not the fabric ordered is the fabric delivered) and to determine which side is to be used as
the face side and wrong side.
5) Out of each lot, 20% of the lot is taken for visual inspection. The CSV and shade
variation tests are done for 100% of the lot.
6) The inspection report is made which is classified based on color and code wise.
7) In case there are a large number of defects, an FRA (Fabric Rejection Advice) letter will
go to the sourcing department and PDQA ( Product Development Quality Assurance) and
then a call is taken whether the fabric can be used or whether it needs to be returned to
the supplier (RTS).
8) In case, it needs to be returned to the supplier, the amount will be debited to the supplier.

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9) Finally, in case the roll has been passed then the details of the roll are entered into the
ERP system. The ERP system used in the store is SAP.

FABRIC INSPECTION PROCESS

Inspection Conditions

Textiles must be inspected on an inspection machine/frame equipped with a variable speed motor
as well as a meter for measuring roll lengths. The frame must be titled so that fabric passes at an
angle, 45 degree to 60 degrees off horizontal.

The frame must be lighted with a minimum of two F96 CWF (cool white/ 4150 Kelvin) bulbs/
tubes parallel to each other and perpendicular to the direction the fabric is moving. The lights
should be 4 feet away from the section of fabric being inspected. The lights must also be directly
above the viewing area, at a 60 degree angle.

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Fabric must be inspected at a speed that is compatible with the inspector’s ability and the type of
textile being audited. The appropriate inspection speed is left the discretion of the inspector, but
it should never exceed:

- 20 yards/meter per minute for solid colors


- 15 yards/meter per minute for printed/ pattern fabric
- 10 yards/ meter per minute for tailored fabrics
- The illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 LUX

All sheer fabrics must be viewed with a backlight. However, other fabrics are inspected with a
backlight only when necessary or as stated in the purchasing agreement.

THE 4 POINT SYSTEM:

SAPL follows the 4 point system. This numeric grading system is endorsed by the American
Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and American Apparel Manufacturers’ Association
(AAMA).

The Four Point System observes these basic grading rules:

- No more than four penalty points may be assigned for any single defect
- No more than four penalty points may be assigned to one linear yard/meter, regardless of
the number of defects within that one meter

Defects in both the warp/ fill or Wales/course directions are assigned points using the following
criteria.

S.no. Length of Defect Points


1 Less than 3" 1
2 3" - 6" 2
3 6"- 9' 3
4 More than 9" 4

Remarks:

1) Fabric should be inspected only on the side designated as the face by the mill.

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2) The fabric will be inspected for spinning/ weaving/ processing defects and stains, holes
etc.
3) No more than 4 points can be assigned to any one meter of the fabric. All defects must be
flagged at the selvage such that the flag can be detected from either the back or face of
the fabric during spreading and the points documented.
4) Any hole will be penalized 4 points
5) A repeating defect should not extend for more than four yards otherwise the roll should
be rejected. It is expected that the mill will remove the defect. All defects up to four yards
should be included in the overall point count based upon the side the defect.
6) A continuous defect extending more than three yards should not be acceptable and should
result in the roll being rejected.

PROCESS FLOW FOR INSPECTION:

Fabric Receipt

Weight verification at
Swatches from each roll for shade
inward
grouping and batching

Roll width measurement Swatch to head office/ merchandiser


for design/ face side approval

Roll identification for all for Test sample (1.2 meters basic
all rolls showing fabric package, 60 cm for additional
code package) for testing

Testing Fabric Inspection

OK
Results GRN done in SAP

Visual inspection or lab Shortage in meters/


rejects or other issues width
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FRA (Fabric Rejection Advice) FDR (Fabric


to merchandising and quality Discrepancy Report) to
mill

Fabric Mill’s analysis &


Review RTS acceptance
Results Generation

Acceptance with variation,


GRN prep. in SAP
information to warehouse

PENALTY POINT ASSESSMENT AND CALCULATION:

Identification of Defects:

All defects must be flagged with an adhesive label, chalk or a swift tag at the selvage of the
fabric. Bullet tacks at the selvage are highly recommended.

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Inspection Quantity:

- Textile supplier must inspect 100% of their fabric before shipment.


- MG quality inspector needs to audit fabrics as per below sample plan.

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Sample size (No.


Lot Size: No. of rolls
of rolls to be
received)
inspected)
2 to 8 2
9 to 15 3
16 to 25 5
26 to 50 8
51 to 90 13
91 to 150 20
- 151 to 280 32

ACCEPTANCE CRITERIA:

Fabric quality have been classified into four groups to allow flexibility in a point counts.
Individual rolls penalty point exceeding the stated requirements of the classified group are
rejected.

If the shipment penalty point count exceeds the specified point count level or the total number of
yards/ meter graded as second quality is more than 10% of the total inspection quantity for all
criteria, the entire shipment fails.

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Shipment
Roll (Points/ 100
Group Fabric Type (Points/100 sq.
sq. meter)
meter)
100% Woven Synthetics
Filaments (Polyester, Nylon
Group 1 18 14
and Acetate), Filament
Rayon's and worsted spun
Denim, Basic Knitted Fabric,
Group 2 Canvas, Poplin/ Gingham/ 24 20
Oxford Shirting and Twill
Speciality Fabrics (Jacquard,
Seerscuker, Dobby, Sateen),
Chambray, Indigo dye yarn,
Group 3 30 24
Corduory, Flannel, Fleece,
Velvet, Stretch fabrics,
Costed fabrics
Linen and Linen Blends,
Duplon and Indian silk,
Group 4 Muslin, Indian Madras - Hand 50 40
dyed and Power Looms,
Patchwork

PENALTY POINT CALCULATION:

All textiles are evaluated on square/meter computation. The formula used to determine the
point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows:

Individual Roll Point (Index):

Roll Points/ 100 m2 =

(Total Penalty Points x 100 x 100)/(Inspected meters x Fabric width in cms)

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CSV – SHADE VARIATION TESTING

Centre to Selvedge variation is a critical problem in open width fabric processing industry.
Although this defects become visible after the dyeing operation, but all other sections are more
or less responsible to create this problem in the industry.

Textile supplier must cut a swatch ( 4” x 4/ 10 cm x 10 cm) from the beginning or end of each
roll and mount it on a shade continuity card. Identitfy each swatch to its roll by writing the roll
number on the back of each swatch with indelible ink.

All shade matching and sorting must be conducted in a light box (Gretag Macbeth). The standard
for checking shade continuity is the approved reference by MG Brand Team.

Maximum of three shade lots are allowed per colour subject to a minimum of 25% of the total lot
quantity each shade lot or minimum size of 500 meters. Each shade group is measured against
the approved reference and the approved reference sample must rate within the AATC tolerance.
Rolls within one shade group must not show any visual differences in shade when sewn together
in one garment. The total yardage of each shade group is noted on the fabric inspection report.

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Shade Continuity:

Shade continuity within each roll is evaluated by assessing the shade variation between:

- Side to side (Selvedge to Slevedge)


- Side to center (CSV)
- End to end

Within roll CSV outside tolerance of the AARCC Gray scale 4 will be graded as second quality.

Instrumental Measurement of Shade:

The standard values of shade parameters using spectrophotometer are as follows:

The acceptable Delta “E” value for centre to selvedge shade variation is: 0.5

The acceptable Delta “E” value for roll to roll shade variation is: 1.0

PROCESS FLOW:

1) Receipt of Material in Stores:

START

Fabric – Non GC: P.O.,


Supplier name, Material
Receipt of Materials with
FDR code, Order qty, Received
supplier invoice/ DC
qty, Visual parameters, Lab
test and Design approval
from brand
Inspection
Fabric/ Trims
FRA
Trims – P.O. Supplier name,
Material code, Order qty, Received
qty, Visual parameters, Lining,
Buttons, Tape and Labels, Items
Entry in goods inward register
overview.
RTS
Lab Test: Lining, Buttons, Tape and
Labels
Quantity
Confirmation
A
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Preparation of goods receipt note

Accept/ with FC

Update of stock in SAP system

Entry of material in identified location


in stores

End
Issue of Material:

Start

Download of production order


and BOM through SAP

Issue of Material

Receipt of Material requisition Issue of 10 cm fabric to CAD for


from production for sewing and marker consumption
packing accessories

Receipt of CAD consumption

Verification of
material Inform brand
requisition with and correct
BOM and cut BOM
qty.

Issue of materials to production as


per PPC

Update of issued qty. in SAP


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Rejected Material

ENTRY IN GOODS
INWARD REGISTER

QUALITY
CONFIRMATION

PREPARATION OF
REJECTED GOODS
RETURN NOTE

UPDATION OF
QUANTITY IN SAP

REJECTED MATERIAL
SENT BACK TO
SUPPLIER WITH DC

END

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RAW MATERIAL LIST:

S. No. List of Raw Materials


1 Fabric
Accessories or Trims
Cutting trims
a. Lining
b. Fusing
c. Canvas
d. Felt

Sewing Trims
a. Labels
b. Buttons
c. Tape
d. Thread
e. Lace
f. Zipper
2

Packing Trims
a. Clips
b. Back Support
c. Poly Bag
d. Hangers
e. Cartons
f. Price Tag
g. Sticker
h. Tissue Paper
i. Brand Collection Tag
j. Product Box
k. Gripper
l. Pin

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OTHER PROCESSES IN STORE:

SPONGEING:

A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen


and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by
steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure
against a contraction of the material in the garment.

The parameters to measure the process of sponging are:

- Sponging Speed
- Temperature
- After sponging fabric should be allowed to relax for 24 hours

There are two main steps in the sponging process, the first is thermal heating
which is applying steam and then cooling, by applying air. It then has to be
allowed to rest for 24 hours. These is mainly done for woolen fabrics and knits
which have not been fused.

Accepatance
Composition Validated Parameters
criteria

Temp. Speed
+ 1.5%, -1.5%
100% WOOL 135 C 4 m/min shrinkage post
relaxation period
Based on thermal
POLYVISCOSE shrinkage,
135 C 3.5 m/min
LYCRA depeding on
elastine %age and
kind of weave
POLYWOOL LYCRA 135 C 4 m/min

TRIMS STORE:

MACHINES USED IN THE STORE DEPARTMENT:

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The types of machines used in the store department are as follows:


Number of
S.no. Name of Machine Make Purpose
machines
To inspect the fabric roll
thoroughly for defects
Fabric Inspection machine
1 Ramsons 6 and variations. This is the
with C-Tex Cameras
first step for quality in the
garment
To shrink and relax
2 Sponging Machine NTS - SP3 1 woolen and non - fused
knit fabrics
To inspect the variation in
shade in the rolls of the
fabric procured. The
3 CSV Machine 1
types of lights used are
TL84 light, Daylight and
UV Light
To stitch the pieces for
4 SNLS Machine Brother 2
the CSV process

METERAGE CHECK MACHINE

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TRIMS STORE:

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PROCEDURE

1) First, the trims are received at the security where the invoice is checked.
The invoice contains details such as the name of supplier, the quantity
details, delivery challan number.
2) The invoice is checked by the responsible personnel at the trim store and
the purchase order and quantity invoice is updated on an excel sheet.
3) Then store tallies the invoice quantity with the existing quantity.
4) The quantity trim cad is sent for approval to respective Brand Responsible
Persons(BRP).
5) Then the trims are sent from quality checks. 20% of quantity of trims are
sent for inspection.
6) The types of buttons SAPL uses are:
 Plastic
 Wood
 Corrozo (Oil Trees)
 RFD (Stronger than plastic)
 Metal (Either iron based or silver based)
 Shank (Either iron based or silver based)
 Cloth Covered
7) The types of defects in the buttons are:
 Chipping
 Crocking
 Raw Edges
 Wrong Hole Positioning
 Color Variation
 Finishing Defect
8) The quality defects in labels possible are:
 Fraying
 Weaving
 Hot Pressing
 Unfolding Edges

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 Shrink Defect (Thermal shrinkage), the bubbling construction labels


usually face this defect due to their shrinkage being high
9) The types of labels used in SAPL are:
 Polyester
 Acetate
 Jacquard
 Embroidered Lining
 Textured Lining
 Bamberg
 Dobby
10) The types of defects in lining with SAPL experiences are:
 Weaving Defect
 Needle Mark
 Broken Pick
 Shade Variation
 Seam Slippage

11) After the quality check, the lots are loaded onto the rack. The thread cones
are segregated based on brand and color. Whereas the buttons are divided
based on the brand, the zippers are segregated based on the shade of the
zipper and the type of zipper. The labels are arranged based on size.

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PROCESS FLOW OF THE TRIMS STORE:

Trims production and Supply (Trim Suppliers)

No
Initial delivery
address checked by
security

Yes
Received at trims store

Trim plan received by trims store

Invoice verified
No
Approval from Sourcing is
against Trim
requested
Plan

Yes
Unloading of trims as per
Packing Slip

MIGO/GIR

Not Ok

Carton opening and


Approval from Sourcing is
physical verification
requested

Visual Inspection (VI)

No If trims are not approved by


Quality, VI
the PDQA it is sent back to
Approved
the supplier

Yes
Location Identification & Storage of
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GRN

BOM Download

Trims Issue

Stock Updation

DAILY REQUIREMENT BOARD:

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SAMPLE SIZE FOR TRIMS:

The sample size of all types of trims is given in the data sheet below:
Lab Test Sample Size
Unit of
Material Req. Qty.
Mst.
Buttons 6 Pcs
Revites 5 Set
Buckel 5 Pcs
Hook and Bar 5 Pcs
Labels 5 Pcs

Leather patch label 5 Pcs

Elastic 50 Cm
Tapes 50 Cm
Gripper tape 50 Cm

Satien tape 50 Cm

Lining 1.2 Cm
Pocketing 1.2 Cm

Inter lining 30 Cm

Canvas 30 Cm
Felt A4 Size Swatch

FABRIC TESTING:

INTRODUCTION:
Fabric testing methods are designed as standard testing procedures with a
purpose to help the apparel industry monitor quality. The fabric testing methods
allow clothing manufacturers to follow uniformed test procedures to evaluate
fabric, textiles, and apparel in a consistent manner. Utilizing pre-determined
testing methods for conducting tests, is the only way to maintain a consistent and
level playing field in regard to the testing of textiles. In order to properly measure
quality, specific standards must be set and specific testing methods (testing
procedures), must be followed.

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Fabric can be tested in a factories own internal lab or with an independent testing
laboratory.

NEED FOR TESTING:

 Fabric testing is conducted so that apparel manufacturers, clothing


retailers, and fashion wholesalers can evaluate the quality of the garments
that they sell.
 This issue is important to members of the fashion industry as well as
consumers of fashion. The apparel industry wants to make sure that the
garments that they manufacturer and sell meet international quality
standards.
 Textile testing standards are set and the fabric testing methods are in place
to monitor that the standards developed are maintained.
 Testing can be performed both to improve product quality and achieve
compliance to international, regional, or retailer specific standards.
 It is important for the fashion industry to learn about fabric testing
methods in order to stay compliant in regard to quality.
 In addition to knowing about testing methods, it is important to also
understand the specific testing result requirements set forth by retailers. If
a clothing company does not know the retailers testing standard
requirements, that company may run into problems such as receiving a
charge back or returned merchandise.

STEPS IN FABRIC TESTING:

1) First, the fabric and a unique identification number or report number is


received.
2) The unique ID number and swatches are sent to the sampling team as a raw
data sheet.
3) As per the fabric/ garment which is required to be tested, the sample
pieces are cut

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4) These samples are given to the testing technician who conductions three
basic types of tests,
a. Physical Tests
b. Wet Tests
c. Chemical Tests
5) The samples are first prepared with the respective conditioning at standard
temperature and pressure. All the tests are performed with respect to
ASTM standards, the temperature maintained is 21 (+1, -1) degree Celsius
and the relative humidity maintained is 61 (+1, -1) degrees Celsius. To
maintain these conditions a double door system has been installed.
6) The testing is started and the results are recorded (either fabric or garment)
7) The test report is sent to the verification team, all tests are checked and
standard protocol requirement is established.
8) Data entry is done by the logout persons in the LIMS (Lab Information
Management System)
9) LIMS generates a soft copy of the report
10) Depending on the reports generated by the technician, it is either liable for
being passed or being rejected. In case the particular sample has not
passed the tests, a message is sent to the testing manager and based on his
decision it is either sanctioned for retesting or it is rejected.

LAB PROCESS FLOW:

Source

Log In Test Request Review

Unique Codification

Selection of Test
Package

Testing and
Documenting

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Suspect Yes
Cross Verification
Results

No
Test Report Prep.

Checking test data

Entry of entire details in


test report

FAIL PASS
Test specimen
Final Updation of test results
sent to QAM
Verification in SAP
review

Test report not acceptable


to source

Retest appeal procedure


Complaint Analysis –
Confirmed Not Confirmed Appropriate action
Storage of test reports &
specimens

TESTING LABORATORY EQUIPMENT:

In the following tables, the various testing equipment present in the inhouse
testing department has been illustrated in detail.

The department contained four sections only for testing. Each section has been
explained in these tables.

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Number of Year of
S. No. Machine Function of Machine Make/ Model
Machines Installation
To test the sample for
Washing WHIRLPOOL -
colour bleeding, coour
1 Machine - 3LWTW48404W 3 N/A
fastness and reaction
Imported I
to detergents
To test the sample for
Washing WHIRLPOOL -
colour bleeding, coour
2 Machine - 360 (Top 6 N/A
fastness and reaction
Domestic Loaded)
to detergents
To test the sample for
the effect of drying with
3 Imported Dryer respect to colour, feel WHIRLPOOL 3 N/A
of fabric and
performance of fabric
To test the sample for
the effect of drying with
Domestic IFB MaxiDry -
4 respect to colour, feel 3 N/A
Dryer 550
of fabric and
performance of fabric
To test the sample for
5 Laundrometer colour and washing Digiwash AATC 2 N/A
fastness
To test the sample for
Paramount
6 Laundrometer colour and washing 1 N/A
AATC
fastness

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CHEMICAL TESTING
To test the sample for
the effect of sweat. It
is prepared by an
acidic solution, with a
Perspirometer
7 liquor ratio of 50:1. It MAG Solvics 1 2012 - Existing
Set
usually contains a
mixture of sodium
chloride - Chlorinated
water.
Hot Air Oven test is
done by heating the
material under test,
inside an oven so that
8 Hot Air Oven MAG C1301 2 2012 - Existing
the effects of long-term
ageing are reproduced
within a much shorter
duration
Measures burning rate
9 Fume Hood
of the sample
Mechanical Tests the endurance of
10 Amith Garment 1 2012
Shaker the sample
Measures the thermal
conductivity and
thermal resistance of
Amith Garment
11 Hot Plate the sample. These are 1 2012
NA/ 1222
two vital factors in
determining the
comfort of the sample.
To check the weave,
Presto NA/
12 Microscope nap and direction of 1 2012
050907254
the sample

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LIGHT FASTNESS LAB


Colour
To asses the fabric in MAG Solvics
13 Assessment 2 2012
in a day light simulator (MS)
Cabinet
Uses D65 Daylight
Pilling View simulation to view the
14 RAMP 1 2015
Cabinet grade of pilling after
the initial pilling test
Beesley To measure the direct MAG C1101 -
15 1 2012
Balance yarn count MS
3-D To analyse the
Smoothness smoothness
16
Appearance appearance of the
Test sample
PHYSICAL TESTING
To test the alkaline or
PHAN India :
17 pH Meter acidic quotient in the 1 2012
PN12300217
sample
To measure the weight
Electronic of the fabric once the Contech: CA
18 1 2012
Balance specimen is cut using 224
the GSM cutter
To test the resistance
MS - MAG
19 Crockmeter of the sample to wear, 2 2012
C0252
crocking and abrasion
To test the burstig
Attachment SAF - Q -
20 strength of a stitched 1 2012
Tester NA/278541
area of the sample

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To measure the tearing


Elma Tear James Head -
21 strength of the 2 2012
Tester 855/13/5086
specimen
To measure the tearing RAMP,
Tear Strength
22 strength of the Capacity: 6.4 1 2012
Test
specimen kgs
Paramount
To measure the
Bursting digiBURSTING:
23 diaphragm bursting 1 2012
Strength Capacity: 35 kg/
strength of a specimen
cm3
To cut the sample in
the shape of a AG Paramount -
24 GSM Cutter 1 2012
particular dye shape 2802011
for future testing
Strength & To measure the
Recovery breaking load of a
25 1 2012
Bond Strength specimen and it's
Test recovery properties
Weighing To measure the weight
26 1 2012
Balance of the sample
To measure the extent
Auto Pilling MS - MAG
27 of pilling which can 1 2012
Machine C1401
occur in the sample
To measure the effect
of abrasion on the
specimen, this
Abrasion RAMP, MS -
28 machine can be used 2 2012
Tester MAG C0701
to measure pilling and
colour fastness due to
rubbing also.
Universal To measure the Tirius Alsen -
29 Strength bursting strength of aTongue tear 1 2012
Tester specimen tester: H5K7
Unitech Scales
To measure the stress
Bond Strength and
30 required to rupture a 1 2012
Tester Measurement:
bond in the sample.
Na/ USM - CCL -
This is an instrument
Thermo Hygro which measures the Paramount: NS/
31 1 2012
Graph temperature and 713009 2001
humidity

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CAD DEPARTMENT:

Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and
related jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for
pattern making, Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual
patterns.

There are number of CAD software suppliers who have developed CAD systems.
But only few names are popular in fashion industry. Widely used CAD systems in
the apparel industry are listed below.

 AccuMark Pattern Design Software by Gerber Technology


 CAD.Assyst by Human Solution Assyst AVM
 Modaris by Lectra Systems
 Optitex Pattern Design software by Optitex
 TUKAcad by Tukateck Inc. ( USED BY SAPL )
 Fashion Cad by Cad Cam Solutions Australia Pty. Ltd
 SDS-ONE APEX3 from Shima Seiki
 PAD System
 GT CAD by Genuine Technology and Research Limited

FUNCTIONS OF THE CAD DEPARTMENT:

The main functions of the CAD Department are:

 Pattern Making: The pattern master in the CAD department is responsible


for checking the type of style and making patterns of it, in case the patterns
are not readily available
 Size grading
 Making markers
 Before production begins, the designer or customer visualizes a design,
which is communicated to the sampling department as well as the CAD

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department. Thus, the feasibility of the design and design elements can be
identified when the patterns are made.
 They are also responsible for making changes in the pattern once the
samples are returned from the buyer
 The CAD department is responsible for making sure than the markers have
a high efficiency in terms of marker utilization and material utilization.
 The CAD department is also responsible for check matching in the fabric

PROCESS OF WORK FLOW IN THE CAD DEPARTMENT:

The CAD department has two main process types:

 For sampling purposes (Lead time of 3 – 7 days)


 For production purposes (Lead time of 30 days)

Both these departments have individual cutting departments.

Process of work flow for sampling purposes:

1) First, the indent form is received by the CAD department.


2) An indent form is a set of sheets which has all garment related details such
as the type of fabric, the design elements in the garment, thread to be
used, measurements, and garment drawings. It is made by the designer.
3) The pattern is developed according to the style details given in the indent
form.
4) The pattern master using existing blocks, and any changes in these patterns
are done by the pattern master.
5) The grading of the patterns is then done
6) Trim and material consumption is checked and calculated
7) The markers are then printed and it is sent to the sampling department.
The sampling department would then make the samples and then send
them to the buyer.

Process of work flow for production process:

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1) The copy of the order is first sent to the store. The order copy contains the
bill of materials, quantity, fabric inspection details and the control sheet.
2) A control sheet contains all the details of the garment and swatches.
3) With respect to the design, the patterns are procured from the storage area
and the changes (if any) are imparted by the pattern master onto new
patterns.
4) The marker is made for all parts of the garment and its lining. The base size
from men is 40 and for women is 28.
5) Then the marker is printed and the quality checker (QC) checks the pattern
for notches, size and deviation with the main pattern as reference. The QC
also checks the plotter calibration by using the box checking method. The
marker needs to be 50 cm X 50 cm
6) All the marker parts are bundled and then sent to the cutting room.
7) A consumption sheet is attached to the order copy and is first sent to the
store for checking the availability of trims and fabric. Another copy is sent
to the cutting room.

PROCESS FLOW:

For Sample Pattern Development:

Start

Receipt of specification sheet from brand to make


proto (development) sample

Development of pattern in PDS as per specification


As per comments
correction to be
done in PDS Marker making for base size

Make a sample

Not approved Approval for


Gold seal

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Approved
Grading and final model
development

Develop/ prepare size set


samples

End

For Regular Production:

Start

Receipt of Work Order from stores along with


swatches

Not available
Check for availability
Check with PPC of gold seal no. &
brand in work order
Available

Not available

Check with Check for availability


Pattern of pattern

Available

Prepare the ratio as per w/o


quantity

Prepare the marker as per the ratio

Calculate the consumption Print marker from plotter

Issue consumption to Make


Checking
stores Changes
Not Ok
OK

To issue the marker to cutting


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QUALITY IN CAD DEPARTMENT:

The CAD department has a QC who checks the size of the pattern with the hard
patterns to make sure than it has been correctly printed for the cutting and
spreading department. Every pattern is given a shrinkage percentage allowance
either length-wise or breadth-wise.

Every week a 50 cm x 50 cm calibration is checked by the CAD quality checker.

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT:
EVACUATION PLAN FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

INTRODUCTION:

Cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics and feeding the sewing
department with cut pieces. The cutting department’s capacity is planned based
on the daily feeding requirement of the sewing lines. The cutting department is
set up with a cutting department head, cutters, spreaders, quality checkers and
helpers for sorting, ply numbering and bundling.

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FUNCTION OF THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

The cutting department has the following functions:

 Take fabric from the fabric store: The cutting department gets a cut order
from the production manager. According to the cutting plan, the cutting in-
charge generates a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip to the fabric
store to issue fabrics.
 Relaxation of fabrics: Knitted fabrics require relaxation before cutting. After
receiving the fabric from the fabric store, the cutting department opens the
fabric from the fabric roll and lays it on the table for relaxation for some
hours before cutting. Factories also relax fabric in the fabric store overnight
after opening the fabric rolls.

 Cut order planning: Cutting master plan the number of markers they need
to prepare, the size combination to be set for each marker and the number
of plies to be laid in each marker.

 Fabric Spreading/ layering: In mass production, multiple layers of fabric are


cut at the same time. So spreaders lay fabric on a cutting table as per total
marker length. The layer height is kept up to a certain inch.

 Cutting fabrics: After making the marker, garment patterns are cut and
taken out from the layer. Various technologies are used for cutting fabric
layers, such as straight knife cutting, band knife machine cutting and a
computer-controlled automatic cutting machine.

 Sorting, bundling and numbering of garment plies (parts): After cutting the
fabric, layers are sorted size-wise and colour-wise. Each ply is numbered
using stickers. Bundles are kept on inventory tables, before these are sent
to undergo the next process.

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 Inspecting cut components: To maintain the cutting quality, standard


cutting components are checked randomly by quality checkers. If defective
components are found, they replace those defective parts.

 Re-cutting panels: Re-cutting is done for garment components that require


to be replaced in bundles. Re-cutting requests are received from the sewing
department for defective garment parts. Re-cutting is also done for block
panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After receiving
garment panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are
reshaped.

 Fusing garment components: If needed, fusing is done at the cutting section


(e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts)

PROCEDURE OF WORK IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

1) First an order is created by the planning department


2) The store checks whether the order can be processed, the BOM availability
is checked
3) After the CAD department makes the markers and calculates the utilization
and consumption, the patterns are bundled and sent to the cutting
department. The CAD department also sends the respective order control
sheet for reference.
4) The store sanctions the fabric to the cutting department.
5) After this, the spreading of the fabric is done and based on the type of
fabric and control sheet details, the checks are matched (if any) and the
numbers of plies are calculated and laid – after certain number of lays, a
sheet of paper is laid to prevent burning off the edges of the fabric when
the knife runs through it.
6) The spreading plan is done based on clubbing sizes together to get the
optimum output in the least time with least effort.
7) Once the marker is placed on the lays, it is ready for cutting
8) The marker contain the following details:

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a. Placed Perimeter
b. Number of Patterns
c. Sizes of Garments
d. Style Number
e. Length of Marker
f. Width of Marker
g. Marker Number
9) Then the cutting is done, which is followed by stickering, fusing of the
required parts and then, if the order is for the future it is sent to store
temporarily for storage. If it is an urgent order it is sent to the sewing
department.
10) The data at the end is entered into the cutting MIS

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PROCESS MAPPING OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT:


Start

Receive work order

Receive control sheet


and materials

Not ok
Return back to stores/ Control sheet
trims store and replace review

Receive CAD marker to cutting

Not ok Check for material width


As per
before spreading using
requirement
marker
correction to
be done

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Spreading
Inform
concerned &
rectify Not ok Inspection of lay

Ok
Cutting has to be done as per marker
Chest piece
making

Check out the D


Inform
concerned &
Not ok components for
accuracy, notches
rectify
and drill marks

Ok
Segregation of components according to
sizes

Plain Stripes/ Checked Lining

Stitckering Relay/ Trimming& Stitckering


pocket matching

100% Not ok Not ok Not ok


Recutting/ 100%
inspection Stitckering Recutting/
Rejection inspection
of panels Rejection
of panels

100%
inspection
of panels

Small parts Ok Ok Ok

Part wise fusing

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B D

Bundling of parts with stickers/ bundle card

Not ok
Inform concerned Bundle
and rectify Auditing

Ok
Issue parts to sewing

Issue confirmation in SAP

End

MACHINES USED AND THEIR DETAILS IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

MACHINE DETAILS (CUTTING SECTION):

S.NO MACHINE MAKE MODEL QUANTITY


1 ST. KNIFE EASTMAN 629X 8

2 BAND KNIFE EASTMAN EC-700N 5

3 END CUTTER EASTMAN EC-3 7

4 GERBER AUTO CUT MACHINE GERBER GT-7250 1

5 NUMBERING BLITZ 2253 15

6 FUSING MACHINE HASHIMA 3

OTHER EQUIPMENTS USED :


 Weight bars: used to hold the plies in place while spreading
 Clamps: used to hold the lay while cutting
 Bins: used to trash away the waste fabric

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NAME OF THE DESCRIPTION


DOCUMENT
Style file Order quantity for each size
Cutting file PCD, quantity that has been cut, quantity remaining to be cut
Relaxation file Time period for relaxation of the layers
Bundle report States how many bundles have been made for each layer sheet content
to be sent for production
Color details The color and lot number of each roll of fabric to be cut
Pattern/ markers Contains the mini markers, patterns of each part, modified patterns
and markers
Part change register No. of parts inspected, no. of parts sends for alterations and part
change with the reasons for part change (date wise)
Sobaring register Details of the layer sheet along with the number of parts per day (date
wise)
Fusing report The temperature and pressure at which the fusing has to be attached
End bit record The length of end bit left/ style

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SEWING DEPARTMENT:

WORKFLOW FOR SEWING DEPARTMENT:

CUTTING RECEIVED BY FEEDING HELPER



INPUT TO SEWING

100% INLINE CHECKING AT CHECKPOINTS

TRIMMING

100% CHECKING FOR OUTPUT GARMENTS AT THE END OF LINE

AQL AUDIT

DESPATCH

The sewing section follows a line layout , the apparel production system employed is progressive
bundle system. (PBS)

STYLE ANALYSIS AND LINE PLAN:

For each and every OC/PO style analysis is done, stating the sequence of operations, sewing
machines , folders and attachments,presser foots etc to be used.

Line plan shows the actual sequence of operations, number of stations for each operation
combination of operations. This will also show the marker positions,iron table positions,quality
check positions.Both the line plan and style analysis is discussed by the production manager ,
floor incharge and line supervisors.

PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT:

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Pre production department is conducted at the factory with members from the sourcing
officehead office quality department, factory quality, cutting, sewing and finishing sections in-
charges respectively along with the production and factory manager.During the meeting
,discussions on points that are taken to be taken care of , during bulk production for better
productivity and quality modification in measurement chart , concessions offered by buyer’s
representative etc to be fully filled by them for further use are done.

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BATCH SETTING:

 JOB DESCRIPTION AND MOCKS

Job description and mocks are prepared for each and every operation, including the marking and
in line ironing. Mocks are initially prepared by the floor incharge and the line supervisor and
operators is educated on how to do specific operations.Once the operator understands the
mechanism , certain no of mocks are then prepared by actual operators and the mock is to be
approved by the the line supervisors, mechanic and quality controller. Seam allowance and SPI
are also mentioned to the operator so that due care can be taken during the process of
manufacturing .The job description is is done verbally and details such as name of operation ,
machines used needle used, color and type and ticket number of thread used , stitches per inch
etc are not recorded on paper.

MACHINE SETTING:

The machine required for the particular style are set accordingly at the batch setting stage.The
floor in charge does the style analysis and decides on the way a batch is to be set step by
step.The machine mechanics make the machines as per the orders of the floor in charge and set it
accordingly.

 MACHINE SETTING
The machine required for the particular style are set accordingly at the batch setting stage.The
floor incharge does the style analysis and decides on the way a batch is to be set step by step.
The machine mechanics makes the machines as per the order of the the floor incharge and set
it accordingly.
 TEMPLATES
The templates .for creasing, ironing are acquired from the pattern section.In case of requirement
of more templates , the line supervisors make the templates either before or during the process of
manufacturing depending on the necessity .Based on the operations , sewing allowance guide
template are used.
 ATTACHMENTS /FOLDERS/GUIDES/JIGS
All attachments, folders , guides, jigs required for the particular style is taken care of during the
style analysis .Hence while setting the batch,the floor in charge commands the mechanics in
setting the particular machines with the right attachment, folders, guides or jigs.

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Functioning Of The Department -


The sewing floor consists of production related activities such as preparation of individual parts
of a garment and its assembly. Cut pieces for sewing are issued from the cutting department to
the sewing floor. Reports are maintained regarding issues to sewing. Accordingly the pieces are
issued to lines for sewing operation. There are storage racks to keep cut pieces at the start of
every line. Feeding is done into the line bundle wise. All parts of garment are bundled separately
in roll form having 40 pieces in each bundle. Before assembly of pieces they are checked for any
quality related issues and accordingly rejected and recorded.

An input statement of the bundles is also maintained along with the details of the rejected
pieces. The rejected pieces are sent for re-cutting for replacement to the line. Sewing lines follow
PART AND ASSEMBLY production system, where the part system follows progressive bundle
system. The machines in the sewing line are laid out as per sequence and bundle system is
followed for all parts and UPS for assembly. Each line has supervisor responsible for managing
daily production activities. Line helpers are kept to track production, arrange accessories, get
replacement pieces from cutting, get thread and maintain record. Every line has a Quality
checker and every four lines have a Quality in-charge appointed by QC department.

Operators at each workstation pickup the garment pieces from fixed table in between and
perform the operation required. After the operation the garment pieces are again rolled and
pushed ahead through aisle space for next operation. Check points are provided at various points
in the line and end line usually after critical operations. Garments from the production line are
dispatched to the finishing on hourly basis. Before finishing the line helper count the pieces
produced size wise after every hour.

Every workstation in the sewing line is provided with necessary work aids to make the job
easier and the in-line inspection is done after every section such as ”Front Section” “Back
Section” and “final”. The checker at these points records the account for the number of pieces
produced per hour. This is used to calculate operator efficiency and to find bottlenecks. Each line
is provided with a production board on which hourly and cumulative production is displayed.

Sample is provided by the sampling which is hung at the end of the line. Every workstation has
a miniature sample of operation to be performed. Details of the machine and maintenance

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records are also hung at every workstation. Storage boxes at checkpoints are provided for
collection of rejected and alter pieces. The altar pieces are worked upon timely by the concerned
operators to avoid production loss. Each line is provided with its own lighting facilities.
Operators for operations are allocated based on their training and experience. If daily target is not
met, overtime system is followed or the operators from other lines ( If the production targeted
through that particular line has a late delivery date) are shifted to complete the production target.

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NEEDLE POLICY:

The needle policy stipulated by the company is followed to avoid metal parts entangled with the
garrment . Helper in the sewing line gives a replacement needle only after getting all the broken
needle parts in full. The broken needle parts are pasted and all needle related formats are duly
filled in the broken needle log report.

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BROKEN NEEDLE FLOWCHART:

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USER NEEDLE CONTROL LOG:

MACHINERY EQUIPMENTS FOR THE SEWING SECTION * ( REFER TO THE


REPORTS AT THE END OF THE DOCUMENT.

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the approval of


future orders from buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or
export company. Sampling is one of key elements of the pre-production processes
in a garment industry. Before a manufacturer produces bulk orders, a prior
sampling of styles is done to get approvals and jumpstart the fabrication of
garments.

Sampling is not just for buyers, but the manufacturers can also derive estimates
of yarn consumption for development of fabric, dyeing, printing, and stitching
cost for a particular style or pattern given by the buyer. Companies can have a
separate sampling department or a merchandiser, who works closely with the

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sampling section to source raw materials, and processes for developing a quality
product for an affordable price.

Sampling includes details like a product/style code or a reference number, color


specifications, kind of fabric, composition, description, quantity, and details of
embroidery, buttons, zippers, or any other sort of accessories used. Hence it can
be said that samples of garments work as a bridge between buyers and the
producers.

NEED FOR SAMPLING:

1) To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the


manufacturer.
2) To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
3) To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and
develop cost quotations.
4) After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the
following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details
of both, what the buyer has demanded and what the supplier fabric/trim
etc they have used.
 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style no/ Size
 Store

PROCESS OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

1) First, a sample indent form from the brand design team is sent for the
development stage, it contains all the details of the garment.
2) The details of the fit and style is discussed with the pattern master

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3) The patterns and the marker are then made by the CAD department and it
is given to the sampling department.
4) The sampling work order is then released to the store and the fabric is
taken from the store.
5) Then the garment making process begins, cutting, sewing and finishing
6) The finishing as of now is not in the sampling department thus it needs to
be sent to the production department, after which it is brought back to the
sampling department for final auditing
7) Then the sample either goes to the warehouse or the head office.

PROCESS MAPPING OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

START

Brand Merchandiser A Download created WO by


sampling coordinator

Indent to factory
merchandiser

Check
NO No fabric &
Check Mail the WO to
Mail to brand & trims
indent factory
update the indent availability
merchandiser &
brand
Yes
Issue the indent to Delete WO
sampling coordinator Mail the WO to
Issue indent to
factory merchandiser
respective pattern
& brand
Plan the committed & master
release date
Clarification A

Mail to brand & factory Check


merchandiser Mail to brand
msmt &
& update the
design
indent
Release of WO by brand sheet
details

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C B

Prep. of pattern
Sending fabric requisition to
stores

Receiving fabric

Issue to cutting

TECO
Sewing

Finishing

Despatch
In SAPL export house, the designs are either developed by the designing department within the
company or the buyer gives the tech pack based on his own idea collection. If the tech pack is
created by the buyer, the factory is supposed to make the samples for the approval of the buyer.
Again the buyer reviews the sample and suggests alterations if required.

MACHINE DETAILS LIST IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT - (WOVEN)

S.NO DESCRIPTION MAKE QUANTITY

1 SNLS Juki 15

2 DNLS Nisho 2

3 Feed of The Arm Juki 2

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4 Continuous Fusing Machine Hashima 1

5 Over lock Juki 5

6 Manual Embroidery Machine Ralson 3

7 Smocking Machine 1

8 Bartack Machine Juki 1

9 Zig Zag machine Juki 1

10 Flat Lock Machine Juki 1

11 Button Stitch Machine Brother 1

12 Button Hole machine Brother 1

13 Key hole Machine 1

14 Snap Fastener Fixing Machine Nagai Shing 1

MACHINE DETAIL IN SAMPLING DEPT.( KNITS)

1 SNLS Juki 15

2 FLATLOCK Juki 2

3 OVERLOCK Juki 1

4 Picoting Machine Juki 1

5 Zig Zag Machine Juki 1

6 Button Holing Machine Juki 1

7 Button Set Machine Juki 1

MACHINE DETAIL IN EMBROIDERY SAMPLING UNIT

S.NO DESCRIPTION MAKE MODEL QUANTITY

1 Computerized Embroidery Machine SWF C-WD904-75 1

LEAD TIME OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT: 7 – 9 DAYS

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WORKFORCE IN THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:

SAMPLING MANAGER 1

PATTERN MAKING SECTION

PATTERN INCHARGE 1

PATTERN MASTER 3

CUTTING SECTION

CUTTING INCHARGE 1

CUTTING OPERATORS 6

FINISHING SECTION:

CHECKERS 2

QUALITY CONTROLLERS 2

HELPERS 2

STORE SECTION

FABRIC COORDINATOR 1

HELPER 1

WOVEN SAMPLING SECTION

SUPERVISOR 1

QUALITY CONTROLLER 1

TRIMMERS 2

OPERATORS 30

KNIT SAMPLING SECTION

SUPERVISOR 1

QUALITY CONTROLLER 1

TRIMMERS 1

OPERATORS 10

EMBROIDERY SAMPLING SECTION

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HELPERS 1

DESIGNER 1

OPERATORS 2

PLANNING DEPARTMENT:

Production planning and control is one of the most important aspects of the
garment manufacturing industry. Precision in planning equates to on-time
shipments, the best use of labor and assurances that appropriate supplies and
equipment are available for each order. Production planning involves everything
from scheduling each task in the process to execution and delivery of products.

FUNCTIONS OF THE PLANNING DEPARTMENT:

 Job or Task Scheduling: Preparation of time and action calendar for each
order from order receiving to shipment. The job schedule contains list of
tasks to be processed for the styles. Against each tasks planner mentions
when to start a task and what is dead line for that task. Name of
responsible person (department) for the job is being listed. For example,
scheduling planned cut date (PCD), line loading date etc.
 Material Resource Planning (Inventory): Preparation of Material
requirement sheet according to sample product and buyer specification
sheet. Consumption of material (fabric, thread, button, and twill tape) is
calculated and estimated cost of each material.
 Loading production: Planner defines which style to be loaded to the
production line and how much quantity to be loaded.
 Process selection & planning: Processes needed to complete an order vary
style to style. According to the order (customer) requirement PPC
department select processes for the orders. Sometime extra processes are
eliminated to reduce cost of production.
 Estimating quantity and costs of production: Planner estimate daily
production (units) according to the styles work content. With the estimated

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production figure, production runs and manpower involvement planner


also estimate production cost per pieces.
 Follow up and execution: Whatever plan is made is executed by PPC
department. PPC department keeps close look whether everything is
progressing according the plan. Chasing other department heads on daily
basis to keep plan on track. They update order wise completed tasks on the
Time & action Calendar. When they found something is going to be late
they expedite and create an alarm about the delay.

PROCEDURE OF THE PLANNING DEPARTMENT:.


1) The central planning department derives a rough demand from the
sourcing team. This plan is known as the supply plan, which happens every
6 months (Once for Spring – Summer and the other for Autumn – Winter )
2) Currently the Autumn – Winter season production is running.
3) The BCDS (Brand Commercial Demand Supply) file is sent from the central
planning department to the factory.
4) A meeting is then conducted internally in the factory to discuss whether the
supply plan is feasible, manpower availability, trim/ fabric availability, line
allocation, capacity filling and to check if the gold seal is available.
5) If the gold seal is not available, the merchandiser is asked to source it.
6) The Pilot Run is conducted.
7) Quantities are updated in the BCDS meeting, and the style changes are
discussed and implemented. This is done one month before production.
8) Work order creation and SAP is made by the central creation team.
9) Order creation cycle is the 6th to the 5th of every month period.
10) There are two kinds of orders:
a. ARS orders (Auto Replenishment System) – Orders which are usually
classics, which need to be constantly produced and replenished. E.g.
White Dress Shirt
b. Non – ARS orders - Orders which are stylized and will not be
repeated.
11) The BCDS codes of the ARS orders are created after the garment is sold.
Whereas non – ARS orders codes are created during the BCDS meeting
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12) Then the work orders are released to the cutting department, the number
of orders released is based on the WIP of the cutting and sewing
department
13) While releasing the work order, a tentative date of dispatch is given.

There are two types of factory deliverables which are decided by the planning
department:

1) OTIF (On time in full)


a. Criteria
i. 7 days before the delivery date, the dispatch can be done
ii. If 100 garments need to be delivered, +5 or -5 number of
pieces can be delivered
2) Lead time
a. Criteria
i. When the work order is TECO (Technically Complete, the order
has been dispatched), the order is closed in the SAP system

PROCESS FLOW OF PLANNING DEPARTMENT:

Receive BCDS from central


planning

Highlight to merchandising No Check gold


and get gold seal seal & fabric
availability

Yes

Swatch collection and


risk analysis

Work order creation by As per BCDS meeting,


brand do the pilot run for new
gold seal
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No Work Order
Highlight to brand creation by
and get it arranged brand

Is OBD
(Operation No Check with
Bkd) available dept. and get
OBD

Yes
Plan based on gold
seal allocated to line
and delivery required

Block line based on


allotted capacity and
efficiency

Schedule for cutting


Embroidery loading production&
dispatches

Garment
Milestone confirmation treatment
to be done

Schedule for garment


treatment

Share dispatch
committed dates
Reschedule with higher
authorities approval
Dispatch on schedule
dates
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INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT:

Industrial engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation


of integrated system of man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized
knowledge and skill in the technical, economics and human sciences, either with
the principles or methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict
and evaluate the results to be obtained from such system.

ROLE OF AN INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER:

Though the time study and motion study are the most common function of
Industrial engineer, the some other responsibilities are

 Planning layouts
 Monitoring Production flow system
 Deicide the machines and attachments for all style
 Pay system
 Monitoring and improve the operator performance
 Operator training
 Production control system

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING AND THE TOOLS USED:

1) There are two types of works in the industrial engineering department:


a. Pre-work: Work done before main production begins
b. Post-work: Work done while main production is going on
2) Pre-work includes the following activities:
a. Costing for trade show of the garment
b. Thread consumption for export orders
c. BCDS – one month in advance on production
d. Trial run of garment and constraint identification based on the new
gold seal
e. Any new folders required and machines required, which are used in
simplifying work

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f. Training of operators
3) Post-work includes the following activities:
a. Line Balancing (with production team)
b. Allotment of floaters for absenteeism coverage
c. Bottleneck clearance
d. Manpower allocation, capacity planning and cycle time of worker
Once BCDS is given, the planning department discusses with the IE
department about which gold seal would need to be allotted to which line.
1) There are four kinds of operators:
a. New Operator:
b. Semi-Skilled Operator
c. Skilled Operator:
d. Highly-Skilled Operator
2) Floaters are more skilled than regular operators, they are highly paid as
compared to normal operators.
3) The IE department is responsible for line balancing, which is based on takt
time:

1.00

0.80

0.60
Ideal Takt Time
0.40
Performance
0.20

0.00
Opr. 1 Opr. 2 Opr. 3 Opr. 4

a. This is an ideal takt time chart, the straight line on the graph is a
representation of the ideal takt time. If the performance of the
operator goes above that line it means that there is a bottleneck. If
the line goes too much below the ideal takt time line, then it means
that the operator is underutilized.

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WAREHOUSE:

A warehouse is a commercial building for storage of goods. Warehouses are used


by manufacturers, importers, exporters, wholesalers, transport businesses,
customs, etc. They are usually large plain buildings in industrial parts of towns.
They come equipped with loading docks to load and unload trucks; or sometimes
are loaded directly from railways, airports, or seaports.

Packing is done location wise. Poly covers are used for packing the garment.

Lead time of the warehouse is 1 day.

PROCESS FLOW OF WAREHOUSE:

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Start

Finished Product Received At


Warehouse

Size Wise Segregation

Replace Barcode Verification Of


& Size Sticker Barcode, Tags

Tagging & Barcoding-Style Code


Wise

Packing & Polycovering & Sealing

Size Wise & Location Wise Packing In


Carton Box
Repack

Location Wise
Scanning

Sealing Of Carton Box

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Picking & Packing In Vlo2n

Create Carton Stickers

Print Tax Invoice

Loading

Dispatch

Check The Work Order Status

Final Confirmation

Analyse Variance

End

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B D

Bundling Of Parts With Stickers/Bundle Cards

Not Ok Bundle
Inform Concerned &
Auditing
Rectify

Ok

Issue Parts To Sewing

Issue Confirmation In Sap

End

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OBSERVATION: SAPL like other export houses produce orders for foreign buyers but the only
department in which they stand out majorly is embroidery department which helps them to crack
bigger/better deals.

EMBROIDERY DEPARMENT:

100% quality checking happens after every batch is done.

MACHINERY DETAILS ( EMBROIDERY SECTION) :

S.NO DESCRIPTION MAKE MODEL QUANTITY

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1 Computerized embroidery machine TAJIMA TMEF-HG918 1


(18 Head -9 needle)

2 Computerized embroidery machine BARUDAN 9745438K 1


(20 Head- 7 needle)

3 Computerized embroidery machine SWF SWF/C-WD 2


(20 Head - 9 needle) 920-75

4 Die cutting machine Auto cut 1

WORKFORCE ( EMBROIDERY ):

IN CHARGE SUPERVISOR OPERATOR TRIMMERS CHECKERS HELPERS


(1) (2) (10) (5) (2) (2)

PROCESS MAPPING OF EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT:


CUSTOMER APPROVAL:

Start

Receipt of artwork for


embroidery from designers

Punching of design

Development of sample piece


as per customer requirement

Customer
Approval
Not ok

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Customer Approved

Retain approved sample and


carry out bulk production

End

EMBROIDERY ACTIVITY:
Receive cut panel from
cutting

Check WO, CAD paper and


thread shade

Marking of cuff

Setting of spreader frame on


the machine

Marking on the table for


framing

Framing

Ring framing of cloth to be


embroidered

Carrying out embroidery

Reject Inspection
Rework
Scrap

Lining removed & trimming

Load to cutting

End
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 Embroidery is a decorative stitch which is placed on the garment to enhance its properties
or advertise the brand of the garment.
 There are styles that need the pocket, front or sleeve to be embroidered. It is the
embroidery section supervisor’s responsibility to get the correct embroidery disk or tape
from the production coordinator.
 This tape is placed on the machine and the machine is set up to run 20 embroideries at
once based on machine capacity.
 The supervisor will adjust the machine speed so that it is suitable for the different fabric
and embroidery types.
 Approved standard will be hanging with machine and follow according style.
 When the embroidery operation is completed in embroidery section then all the pieces are
checked 100% through needle detector machine and send it to cutting section.
 Finally cutting section will include all the parts together and deliver to sewing line.
 Cutting quality inspector must check each cut received from embroidery 100% for its
quality and quantity.
 Cutting in-charge has to follow bundle chart and ensure the entire cut received is as per
its Quantity and number sequence.
 Any panel is to be returned in embroidery section for rectifying should be noted down in
this report and should ensure that each panel will be returned to each bundle after
correction or replacement.
 Q.A (Quality assurance) Manager and Cutting in-charge must ensure each bundle which
is going to be issued to the sewing line will be 100% correct and acceptable with quantity
too.
 Full responsibility delegated to the embroidery section or plant about standard quality
and each panel must be check for quality point advised by the QC (Quality controller)
and its Quality Manager. QC has to submit this report to the QA Manager on daily
basis.
 Before sewing line input, Q.I (Quality in-charge) will check each bundle which is going
to be passed through metal detector machine, also will be 100% correct and acceptable
with quantity.

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WORKFLOW (PRINTING UNIT):

MACHINE DETAILS (PRINTING UNIT):

 8 Color Circular screen printing machine - 1


 12-Color circular screen printing machine - 2
 Curing Machine- 1

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WORKFORCE IN (PRINTING UNIT):

Operators- 10 Printing Masters-2 Designer-1 Incharge- 1

DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED IN THE UNIT:


 Dye stock register
 Lot consumption register
 Inward and outward fabric register
 Hourly Production Record

The printing unit does the printing for samples as well as for bulk production . Printing is done
manually with the help of screen circular machine .Various types of printing down in this unit
are:

 Guddy Print
 Water based print
 Glitter print
 Embossed print
 Rubberized print

The Printing Procedure employed is as follows :

 The head office sends the artwork of the buyer to the printing unit.
 The artwork is then scanned , and the printing designer further enhances the print
according to the buyer specifications using the Corel Draw, Photoshop softwares.
Grading of artwork according to size is done by relatively increasing the artwork
dimensions in Corel Draw.
 The artwork scanned is then printed onto nova sheets (butter paper). These sheets are
known as printing films.
 A direct emulsion solution is then applied over plain screens.
 The screen is then placed over the printing films which are placed over the exposing
table.
 The screens are then allowed to dry for 20-25 units and are then washed.

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 Now, the exposed parts are visible on the screen. For further visibility, the screens are
allowed to dry in the sun for 2-3 hours.
 According to the artwork , the appropriate print pasts is then created.
 The screens are fixed onto circular screen printing machines, and the fabric to be printed
is stuck onto the printing tables using glues such as MD Lyth Gum, Cresol Spray Gum.
 The temperature of the machine is maintained by regulating the heaters according to the
density, type of print and fabric type.
 The printing paste is then applied over the screens, and the printing is done manually in a
clockwise motion.
 After printing, the fabric is cured by passing it through a curing machine.

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PROJECT UNDERTAKEN

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ACTUAL LAYOUT

PROPOSED LAYOUT

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Objective: Increasing productivity and capacity of the sewing floor in same shift hour by
introducing 4 new line of 55 machine in the same area

PRODUCTION (SEWING) FLOOR

DEPARTMENT AREA (Sq. Mtr.)

TOTAL FLOOR AREA 3440.2 Sq. Mtr.

POCKET SETTER ROOM 170.78 Sq. Mtr.

MAINTENANCE ROOM 164.67 Sq. Mtr.

SEWING FLOOR AREA 3013.7Sq. Mtr.

* The Area of the Sewing Floor is 3013.7 Sq. Mtr.


* In which, Available Width of Sewing Floor = 83.5 - 10.35 = 73.15 Mtr.
* And Available Length of Sewing Floor = 41.2 Mtr.

There are 8 Lines each consists of 2 rows available in the Sewing floor.
The Capacity of each line per Day (10 Hours) is 2000 - 2200 Pcs.
So, Capacity of the Total Sewing Floor is upto 16000 Pcs/Day ( 10 Hours ) *taking 2000 Pcs
as an average*.
On an Approx, 45 Machines are there in each Line.
Dimension of JUKI Single Needle Lockstitch (SNLS) Machine -
o Length = 48 inches = 1.21 ≈ 1.25 Meters

Width = 20.25 inches = 0.51 Mtr. ≈ 0.7 Meters


Taking this Dimension as a Base dimensions for all Machines available in Sewing floor. *

Width of Sewing Floor = 73.15 Mtr.

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Calculations :
Length of 2 JUKI SNLS Machines in a line = 1.25 X 2 = 2.5 Meters ≈ 3 Meters (2 rows in a Line
)

Width of Table in between the rows of machine in the line = 30 Inches = 0.76 Meters.
Area left for movement of trolleys between lines or Passage ways = 2 Meters

Total Length = 3 + 0.76 + 2 = 5.76 Meters ≈ 6 Meters

And, Width of Sewing Floor = 73.15 Mtr.


Total Length required to set-up a line = 6 Meters
Lines Set-up in Sewing Floor = 73.15/6 = 12.19 Lines ≈ 12 Lines (Each of 2 Rows).

12 Lines can be easily Set-up in the Sewing Floor each of 2 Rows with a preferably
required passage ways and Tables in between the rows which can be used for
Material Movement.

Now, The Company only running with 8 lines consists of 450 Machines. (Approx)
Due to Improper floor utilization and Improper management of Inventories and Stocks.
Through This Proposal we get,
4 Extra lines of machines with two rows each. So, Total 12 lines can be fully used for
production.
Approx. 45 Machines in a Line. So, 180 Extra machines can be installed in a same provided
space.
A 2 Meter long gap between the lines for moving trolleys which can also be considered as a
passage way which is more enough to help a person in emergencies. A 30 Inches Table space which
can be used for easy material flow.

Enough space for specialized machines at the end of every row. Ex. Button hole
machine, loop attaching machines etc.

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Financial Possibilities :

Though this proposal, we get 4 extra lines each consists of 45 machines. So, 180 Extra Machines
can be installed in a same provided space.
Which Means, Total Capacity in term of Machines can be increased by 180 Machines.
The company already running 8 lines with 360 machines.
Now, Total Machine = 180 +360 = 540 Machines.

The Machine Capacity increased with 540 Machines and 12 Lines.


The Capacity of each line per Day (10 Hours) is 2000 - 2200 Pcs.
And, The Capacity of the Total Sewing Floor is upto 16000 Pcs/Day.
So, If we get 4 extra lines the Production Capacity itself can be increased by 8000 Pcs/Day
(10 Hours).
The Total Capacity of 12 Lines = 16000 + 8000 = 24000 Pcs/Day ( 10 Hours ).

The Total Capacity can be increased upto 24000 Pcs/Day.


Calculations :
Width of a JUKI SNLS Machines in a line = 0.5 Meters
Working space required for each operators = 0.5 Mtr.

Total Length Required = 0.5 + 0.5 = 1 Meter

Length of Sewing Floor = 41.2 Mtr.

In which,

* Length of the Offices = 3 Mtrs.


(Approx.)
* 3 Passage ways each of 2 Mtrs. =
6Mtrs.
* 1 Storage Rack = 0.5 Mtr

Total Remaining Area = 41.2 - 4 - 6 - 0.5 = 31.7 Mtrs ≈ 32 Mtrs.

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Total Width Required to set-up a Machine is 1 Meter including working space


required for operators.

In a line, There are 45 Machines ( Approx. ) which can be divided in 2 rows.


So, In One Row = 45/2 = 22.5 ≈ 23 Machines.
There are 23 Machines used in a row which require 23 Meter.
Remaining Space = 32 - 23 = 4 Meters.
9 Meter is still remaining which can be used for Proper Storage of garments, Work in
progress, Specialized Machines etc.

BENEFITS OF CHANGING THE LAYOUT

o The sewing lines can straight and won‟t be clumsy anymore.

o The sewing machines can be increased (more sewing lines can be laid)

o Production will automatically increase as more spaces for more machines let it be, loop

attachment or button attachment machines.


o It would be easier to attract more buyers as the new layout will help to follow all the
requirement of the buyers much easily.

1. Convert the vacant places as stores - Idle or vacant spaces in the campus can be converted
into Material storage.

2. Idle machines or the machines which are not working immediately remove from he line
and can be sent into Maintenance Room or Machine Yard.

4. Dust bins not used properly - use of dustbins in the sewing floor must be proper, there must
not be any garment waste lying on the floor making the place clumsy.

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PROJECT :2 PRODUCTION IMPROVEMENT OF SHIRT SEWING LINE (MOTION


STUDY) & REMOVAL OF BOTTLE NECKS

OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT


Primary objective : To do a Motion study to Eliminate unproductive operations performed by the
operators and to train them for the same. And to eliminate the bottle necks.

Secondary objective : To increase their efficiency and hence, the production. Proper line
balancing and work in progress.

SCOPE OF THE PROJECT


The scope of this project is very large as this is the only possible way to increase the efficiency
of line and as to balance the line is such a proper way so that the line requires minimum WIP.

LITERATURE
The operation of Shirt line is categorized into five sections; collar section, sleeve section, front
and back end line and the assembly line. The collar section is completely independent, where as
the sleeve section has dependent operations like attaching the cuff. Front and back are
independent too, coming together in the assembly line.

Parts Of the Shirt


Front panel- 2
Placket-2
Back panel- 1
Yoke – 2
Collar- 2
Collar stand-2
Sleeve-2

OPERATION BREAKDOWN
* Collar Section
* Run stitch collar
* Trim collar
* Top stitch Collar
* Hem neckband
* Insert collar in NB
* Trim neckband @ bottom
* Sleeve Section (Half Sleeve)
* Hem sleeve
* Front Section
* Hem left front placket

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* Hem right front placket


* Back Section
* Sew Back Darts
* Attach label @ basket yoke
* Join Yoke
* Top stitch Yoke
* Assembly Section
* Join Shoulder
* Top stitch shoulder
* Stay stitch neck
* Attach Collar
* Close Collar
* Set sleeve to armhole
* Topstitch armhole
* Tack side seam label
* Trim @ armhole
* Join sideseam
* Hem bottom
* Sleeve Tack

METHODOLOGY 1
To remove bottle necks and increase the productivity.

STEPS TAKEN -
1. To find out problem
2. To check the efficiency of the operators
3. To analyze the bottle necks.
4. To do re allocation as needed.

Operator Operation Name SAM(in @ 100% @65% productio


name mins) n
Savita Run stitch collar 0.144 416.66666 270.83333 180
67 33
Meenakshi Trim collar 0 150

Bhagyamma Top stitch Collar 0.45 133.33333 86.666666 110


33 67
Radha Hem neckband 0.361 166.20498 108.03324 282
61 1

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Renuka B Insert collar in NB 0.712 84.269662 54.775280 72


92 9
Kavita Insert collar in NB 0.712 84.269662 54.775280 64
92 9
Vijaylakshmi Trim neckband @ bottom 0.3 200 130 118

Lakshamamm Hem sleeve 0.56 107.14285 69.642857 84


a 71 14
Lakshmi Hem sleeve 0.56 107.14285 69.642857 116
71 14
Pavitra Hem left front placket 0.512 117.1875 76.171875 134

Sunanda Hem right front placket 0.512 117.1875 76.171875 130

Netravati Sew back darts 0.587 102.21465 66.439523 90


08
Chandrakala Sew back darts 0.587 102.21465 66.439523 68
08
Bhagya Attach label @ basket yoke 0.437 137.29977 89.244851 158
12 26
Prema Attach basket yoke @ back 0.565 106.19469 69.026548 192
yoke 03 67
Nagmani Join yoke 0.545 110.09174 71.559633 166
31 03
Bhagyashree Join yoke 0.545 110.09174 71.559633 160
31 03
Shivamma Top stitch Yoke 0.502 119.52191 77.689243 172
24 03
Shivamma Join shoulder 0.55 109.09090 70.909090 132
91 91
Kavita Top stitch shoulder 0.525 114.28571 74.285714 132
43 29
Renukamma Stay stitch neck 0.49 122.44897 79.591836 122
96 73
Padma Attach collar 0.542 110.70110 71.955719 92
7 56

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Bhagya Attach collar 0.542 110.70110 71.955719 100


7 56
Usha Close Collar 0.655 91.603053 59.541984 80
44 73
Ratnamma Close Collar 0.655 91.603053 59.541984 70
44 73
Divya Set sleeve to armhole 0.8 75 48.75 76

Lata Set sleeve to armhole 0.8 75 48.75 72

Usha Set sleeve to armhole 0.8 75 48.75 80

Chandrakala Topstitch armhole 0.679 88.365243 57.437407 76


95
Shahshikala Topstitch armhole 0.679 88.365243 57.437407 54
95
Jaysheela Topstitch armhole 0.679 88.365243 57.437407 60
95
Ramya Tack side seam label 0.347 172.91066 112.39193 144
28 08
Divya Trim @ armhole 0.35 171.42857 111.42857 120
14 14
Indra Join Sideseam 0.72 83.333333 54.166666 70
33 67
Shweta Join Sideseam 0.72 83.333333 54.166666 70
33 67
Sunandamma Hem bottom 0.684 87.719298 57.017543 86
25 86
Shivsheela Hem bottom 0.684 87.719298 57.017543 76
25 86
Manjula Sleeve tack 0 76

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Collar Section Sleeve section

180 180 1440 Run stitch collar 200 Hem sleeve

150 150 1200 Trim collar

110 110 880 Top stitch Collar

282 110 880 Hem neckband

136 110 880 Insert collar in NB

Fast scan to a color PDF file_3.JPG

118 110 880 Trim neckband @ bottom

110 880 1600

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Back

Sew back darts

Attach label @ basket yoke

Attach basket yoke @ back yoke

Join yoke

Top stitch Yoke

ASSEMBLY

130 132 1040 Join shoulder

130 132 1040 Top stitch shoulder

122 122 976 Stay stitch neck

110 192 880 Attach collar

110 150 880 Close Collar

110 228 880 Set sleeve to armhole

110 190 880 Topstitch armhole

110 144 880 Tack side seam label

110 120 880 Trim @ armhole

110 140 880 Join Sideseam

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110 162 880 Hem bottom

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In one hour Bottlenecks( 1 hr) Bottlenecks(8 hrs) New Collar Section

180 180 1440 1080 Run stitch collar 200

150 150 1200 1050 Trim collar

110 110 880 1210 Top stitch Collar

282 110 880 1128 Hem neckband

136 110 880 1120 Insert collar in NB

118 110 880 1121 Trim neckband @ bottom

110 880 1120

Sleeve section

1600 1400 Hem sleeve 134 1072 1202

130 1040 1170

1600 1400 1040 1170

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Front Back

Hem left front placket 158 158 1264 Sew back darts

Hem right front placket

158 158 1264 Attach label @ basket yoke

192 158 1264 Attach basket yoke @ back yoke

326 158 1264 Join yoke

172 158 1264 Top stitch Yoke

158 1264

130 132

130 132

122 122

110 192

110 150

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110 228

110 190

110 144

110 120

110 140

110 162

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132 1170 Join shoulder

132 1170 Top stitch shoulder

122 1170 Stay stitch neck

192 1120 Attach collar

150 1120 Close Collar

228 1120 Set sleeve to armhole

76 1120 Topstitch armhole

54 1120 Tack side seam label

60 1120 Trim @ armhole

266 1120 Join Sideseam

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70 1120 Hem bottom

70

86

76

OUTCOME
Total output increased per day (8 hours) from 750 pcs to 1050 pcs.
This is done by re allocation of a few operators.
Thus increasing the monthly capacity by 350 * 25 = 8750 pcs

METHODOLOGY 2

To find out problem in shirt sewing line (excess of un-productive motions).


To remove unproductive motion
To achieve the given
target Work sampling

FOLLOWING PROBLEM FOUND -


More waiting time for loading - at times workers had to search for the garment panels
More style change - due to frequent change in style workers need to adjust for every style
resulting in start-up losses & learning curve.
More number of unproductive motions performed - all the motions produced by the
workers are not productive motions.
WIP is less (not constant) - the WIP between two workers are not
constant. Operator sitting idle - few of the times the workers are found
idle
Empty machines - few of the times the machine was idle.
Line Balancing - if two operations are merged, it will save time.

STEPS TAKEN -
1. To find out problem
2. To do method study

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3. To do loss time study


4. Work sampling
5. Motivate them to work efficiently
6. Suggest training of operators (to perform productive motions and eliminate un productive
motions)

PROBLEM ANALYSIS THROUGH TIME & MOTION STUDY


SAM for the current style in line -12 is 23 minutes.

Operation Operation Operator Clock time Clock time


Code Available used

CL COLLAR SECTION
20 SNLS Run stitch collar Savita 480 480
UBT
30 Trim Collar Meenakshi 480 480

60 SNLS Top stitch Collar Bhagyamma 480 480


Shashikala 480 480

70 SNLS Hem neckband Radha 480 480


80 SNEC Insert Collar in NB Renuka B 480 480
Kavita 480 480

90 SNEC Trim neckband Vijaylakshm 480 480


@bottom i
Bhagyashre 480 480
e

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SS SLEEVE SECTION
110 SNLS Hem Sleeve Lakshmam 480 480
ma
Lakshmi 480 480

FR FRONT SECTION
120 SNLS Hem left front placket Pavitra 480 480

130 SNLS Hem right front Sunanda 480 480


placket

BK BACK SECTION
150 SNLS Sew back darts Netravati 480 480
UBT
Chandrakala 480 480

170 SNLS Attach label @ basket Bhagya 480 480


UBT yoke
180 SNLS Attach basket yoke @ Prema 480 480
back yoke
190 SNLS Join yoke Nagmani 480 480
200 DNLS Top stitch Yoke Shivamma 480 480

AS ASSEMBLY SECTION
220 5T O/L Join shoulder Shivamma 480 480
230 SNLS Top stitch shoulder Kavita 480 480
UBT

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240 SNEC Stay stitch neck Renukamma 480 480


250 SNLS Attach collar Padma 480 480
UBT
Bhagya 480 480

260 SNLS Close Collar Usha 480 480


UBT
Ratnamma 480 480

280 5T O/L Set sleeve to armhole Divya 480 480

Usha 480 480

290 SNLS Topstitch armhole Chandrakala 480 480


UBT
Jaysheela 480 480

300 SNLS Tack side seam label Ramya 480 480


UBT
310 3T O/L Trim @ armhole Divya 480 480
TRIM
Lata 480 480

320 FOA Join Sideseam Indra 480 480

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Shweta 480 480

360 SNLS Hem bottom Sunanadam 480 480


UBT ma
Shivsheela 480 480

OUTCOME

Total time which can be saved in construction of one shirt = 29.5


seconds. Total working hours of line - 12 = 8 hours
Line - 12 Consists of 2 Rows of Machines = 29 * 2 = 58 ≈ 60
Machines Total Machines in Line - 12 = 60 Machines.

Total Throughput time for Line - 12 in a hour = 60 * 60 = 3600


min. Production/hour in line - 12 = 132 pcs
Total Time which can be saved in line - 12 per Hour = 132*29 = 3806 Sec. =63.4 Mins.

Total Throughput time for Line - 12 in a Day (8 Hours) = 60 * 60 * 8 = 28800


min. Production/Day in line - 12 = 1050 pcs
Total Time which can be saved in line - 12 per day = 1050*29.5 = 30975 Sec. =
516.2 Mins. which is equal to 8.6 Hrs.

Total Throughput time time can be saved in a line - 12 per day (8 hours) = 516.2 Mins.

Total Production/Day = 1050 Pcs.

We know that the Total SAM of the Current garment is 23 Mins.

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So, Total Extra Garments can be made with that Saved time = 516.2/23 = 22.44 ≈
22 Gmts.

So, 22 Extra garments can be made with this saved time in a day (8 hours).

Our New Capacity of 1 line will be 1072 Garments per day.

And, There are 3 lines currently running in the Production floor = 1072 * 3 = 3216
Garments.

So, The New Capacity of the Production floor raised from 3150 Pcs to 3216 Pcs per day.

➢ Monthly Capacity

On a Month (25 working days) the previously Capacity of Production floor = 3150 * 25 =
78750 Gmts.

And, The New Capacity of production floor in a month = 3216 * 25 = 80400 Gmts.
The Capacity of Production Floor is increased by 1650 Gmts/Style in a month.

➢ Yearly Capacity

On a Year, the previously Capacity of Production floor = 78750 * 12 = 9,45,000

Gmts. And, The New Capacity of production floor in a Year = 80400 * 12 =

9,64,800 Gmts.

Difference in yearly Capacity = 9,64,800 - 9,45,000 = 19,800 Gmts


The Capacity of Production Floor is increased by 19,800 Gmts in a Year.

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PROJECT : 3 Reducing the carbon emissons of a garment manufacturing unit by various


packaging alternatives.

Sustainable Packaging is integrating environmental criteria in the design process of a product


packaging combination. This means that besides the normal criteria, such as marketing,
functional, economic and technical criteria, also environmental criteria is taken into
consideration.

Sustainable packaging is about finding the optimum between reducing the amount of
packaging material (weight & volume) and minimizing product loss (protecting the
product).

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OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

Primary objective : To reduce the amount of carbon emissions produced through plastic
packaging and waste.

Secondary objective : To provide alternate packaging options and reduce the environmental
impact.

SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

The scope of this project is very large as the world is moving to eco friendly means of every
process & sustainability has gained lot of importance in the recent years. Also, would fall in with
the plastic bans happening all over the world.

LITERATURE

According to The Carbon Trust, clothing accounts for around 3% of the global production (or
850 million metric tonnes) of CO2 emissions per year. This figure includes both the production
process and emissions produced after we have bought the clothing, such as when we’re washing,
drying and ironing.

Processes and their contribution to carbon emissionss

Design and sample development department included designing, merchandising and


sampling sections, were responsible for working with the textile and trims, sourcing,
scheduling production, controlling product flow and making of prototypes. It consumed
electricity in running of machines like electric cutters, sewing machines and generated garbage
like fabric scarps, pattern papers etc.

Production department undertook spreading, cutting and sewing responsibility. Power operated
machines like cutters, sewing machines, fusing machines and steam iron sets were used for the
purpose. Fabric samples were sent outside to reputed labs for testing .This department generated
large amount of waste in form of cardboard boxes, labels, tapes, thread cones, fusing rolls, fabric
scraps and stickers.

Maximum contribution to carbon emissionss is at the finishing level as a garment goes through
many operations like pressing, stain removal, inspection, folding and packaging. All these
operations involve use of machinery like steam iron sets, stain guns etc. Boilers which are used to
generate steam, used in pressing, consume large amounts of diesel fuel. Water consumption also
adds to carbon emissionss along with chemicals like Tide detergent, liquid soap, acetone, etc
which are used for washing and stain removal. Garbage that is generated in form of packaging
material also contributes to carbon emissionss.

Miscellaneous sections include computerized embroidery section, effluent treatment plant, etc.

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The maximum contribution to carbon emissionss by electricity was at the finishing level
followed by production department, as most of the machines were power based.

Garbage included stationery items like printed papers, sheets, fabric scraps, trims, fusing rolls and
paper, damaged labels, tags, polythene bags, tickets, bar coded sticker, tapes, cardboard boxes,
empty thread cones (about 100 kg/month) which contributed to carbon emissionss.

Majority of the packaging of the garments in any export house are done with a poly bag.This
made us realize the amount of waste that is generated by using poly bags. This brought us to
explore and investigate ways to reduce the amount of plastic waste generated from garment
products packaging.

This requires balancing the buyer’s compliance and satisfaction along with environmental
impact.

Polybags are used because they are critical in insuring that garments stay clean from the finished
goods factory through the DC. If we eliminated the use of polybags, garments would be
damaged, resulting in both financial and environmental costs. Energy, water and resources are
used to make each product and we want them to be worn. A damaged product that is unwearable
has a far greater environmental cost than manufacturing a polybag.

The cartons that carry these poly bag packed garments that arrive from the factories are often
broken, torn, or open upon arrival. This exposes finished products to dirt, moisture and damage.

Shipping journeys are often perilous.

The polybag protects the product from becoming dirty or damaged at the factory, during transit
to the DC and while the product is stored, processed and packed at the DC.

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SAPL uses over 40 million plastic mailing bags and 5 million cardboard mailing boxes a year,
making it a priority area for them to tackle. Some of our packaging initiatives include:

Increasing the range of packaging sizes so that we reduce the volume of air in each order, which
allows us to fit more parcels onto vehicles and cut CO2 emissions. For example, we now have 17
sizes of garment bag so that we have a suitable size bag for our wide range of products. We also
use encourage our carriers to loose load lorry trailers so that the number of parcels transported in
a single journey is greater and we can reduce the volume of pallet packaging used, read our case
study to find out more.

Increasing the recycled content – our delivery boxes are made out of 100% recycled materials,
and our bags out of 25% recycled content.

Recycling packaging from customer returns with the exception of any returns forms which are
currently not recyclable. We have a closed-loop recycling process in place at our returns
processing site in Selby – we recycled 352 tonnes of cardboard and sent 458 tonnes of plastic to
be transformed into manufacturing pellets between September 2016 and August 2017.

Introducing a Wood and Wood Pulp Sourcing Policy, which focusses on increasing the use of
recycled material for paper and packaging products, as well as minimising paper waste and
encouraging recycling within our operations.

METHODOLOGY 1 To reduce the amount of plastic used during packaging and hence reduce
the carbon emissions produced.

Folding products into smaller shapes would enable us to reduce the size of the polybag required
for each product.

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Analysyis:

1.Continue to use polybags at the factory level. We found that polybags are an effective barrier
to damage that can occur during shipping. A damaged product that is unwearable has a far
greater environmental cost than manufacturing a polybag.

Reduce the size of polybags used. We recommend implementing packaging and folding
guidelines at the finished goods factory level that require a reduction in the size of polybags.

2. Continue to recycle all polybags collected in the DC. Baling the polybags that are collected in
export factory is key to minimizing the waste we produce.

3. Source recycled polybags. By using recycled polybags we can reduce the amount of virgin
petroleum used in packaging.

Few Vendors for recycled polybags are:

1.Wrapper India

2. Rotolink packaging

3.Qingdao Yurui Package Co. Ltd

4. Everfaith International (Shanghai) Co. Ltd

5.Jinan Guang Wen Xing Rubber & Plastic Co

METHODOLOGY 2 To Determine if it is possible to completely eliminate the use of polybags


without incurring damage to products that would make them unsellable.

Why We Need Alternatives To Plastic

According to a report by the Ministry of Environment and Forests, nearly 15,000 tonnes
of plastic waste is generated every day in India. On an average, only 9,000 tonnes gets collected

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and processed for recycling. Plastic that is not disposed off appropriately, find its way into the
feed of unsuspecting animals and ocean species, even clogging our drainage systems and
reducing the richness of our soils. As for recycling itself, you may believe it is an effective
solution to the current crisis.

However, the energy and financial resources required to transport and recycle certain types of
plastics are much larger than their production costs, making it a highly unsustainable solution.
The only solution is to develop alternatives to the plastics that we use. Luckily, entrepreneurs
and innovators in India are already devising solutions.

Recycling Vegetable Waste

Ashwath Hegde, an NRI entrepreneur from Qatar, has devised a plastic bag made from natural
products such as tapioca starch granules, vegetable oil and waste. His company, EnviGreen is all
set to launch the product in Bengaluru this year, with products ranging from biodegradable trash
bags and sachets to wrapping film and carry bags. According to Ashwath, the average cost of an
EnviGreen shopping bag is ₹3, and he is hoping to revolutionise the packaging industry, with his
offering in the future.

Sachets Made Of Regenerated Cellulose

Using plastic sachets is a norm in the FMCG industry. However, three students R. Praneeth
Srivanth, B. Shantini and Abhishek Vinakollu from IIT Madras’ chemical engineering
department devised an eco-friendly alternative to package edible and non-edible products, as part
of an innovation competition conducted by FMCG giant Hindustan Lever. The students
developed a novel packaging material from cellophane, which is regenerated cellulose and is
completely biodegradable. The corporate giant has now shown an interest in incorporating this
innovation into its product packaging.

Resurgence Of Hemp

Post a campaign by the plastics industry in the early 19th century to discredit hemp by linking it
to marijuana (both come from the cannabis plant), the material is now actively making a
comeback, the world over. In India, BOHECO, set up by a group of young entrepreneurs is
making and marketing hemp products, from snacks and clothes to raw material for industries like
construction and biotechnology. Hemp is known to be three times as strong as cotton,
biodegradable and very durable.

Chicken Feathers

The United States found out that disposing of chicken feathers is a problem, but with the help of
innovation, they can be a material useful to make a water-resistant thermoplastic. Chicken
feathers are consist of keratin, a tough and durable protein like plastics. It can be found in hair
and wool. The keratin-based plastic is proven to be more resistant to tearing than other plastics

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made from soy, starch, and other agricultural sources. It is cost-effective, renewable, and fully
biodegradable.

Liquid Wood

Liquid wood looks, feels and acts like plastics but unlike petroleum-based plastic, this is
biodegradable and suitable for various product packaging. Some researchers use this as
substitute to make toys, golf tees, and hi-fi speaker boxes.

PCL Polyesters

Polycaprolactone is a synthetic aliphatic polyester that’s not created from renewable resources
but could degrade after weeks of composting. The process is easy, but it is seldom used because
of its manufacturing costs.

PHA Polyesters

Polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) polyesters are biodegradable plastics that resemble with man-made
polypropylene. They are less flexible than petroleum-based plastics, and useful in in plastic
films, injection-molded bottles, and packaging.

PLA Polyesters

Polylactic acid (PLA) is an aliphatic polyester and can be made from lactic acid. PLA can also be
created from wheat or sugarcane. It has the ability to decompose within forty-seven days in an
industrial composting site, and it would not release toxic fumes when burned. It is open to new
packaging applications for green plastic, automotive parts, and coffee cups

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But paper mailers we tried suffered considerable damage prior to leaving the factory itself. We
tried passing them through the conveyor in the factory.Damage included separatedseams and

tearing of the bag.

Any company that wants to reduce its carbon emissions, address water consumption, or anything
else— you’re not going to be able to get tremendous gains without at least doing something
about packaging.No one’s going to solve all of our environmental issues by just looking at
packaging, but at the same time, no one’s going to be able to solve all of our environmental
issues without including packaging.

In a bid to reduce waste, one option we could come up was to use reusable mailers made from

upcycled billboard material.

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The durable bags are cycled back into the shipping system and can be reused up to 2,000 times.

But it turns out that by folding our clothes better at the factories, we use 30 percent less plastic in
our polybags.

Taming the polybag beast

When it comes to polybags, most would argue that using recycled content is great, but using no
bags at all is even better.

We could eliminate most polybag use by rolling items, then tying them with compostable raffia.
Items could then be packed in one large box lined in plastic to prevent moisture damage.

On a broader scale, Gendell advises brands to adopt a “three pillar” system that addresses
materials sourcing (using recycled, biodegradable, and compostable materials), optimization
(reducing materials and volume), and recovery (ensuring materials are easily recyclable). This
involves interrogating the supply chain.

Benefits:

1.Long term human and ecological health.

2.Maintain business to meet consumer demands for ecofriendly suppliers.

3.Attracting consumers who will choose eco friendly product over conventional packaging.

4.Increased brand value.

Conclusion:

In the present times when global warming is the issue of concern world wide, it is the
responsibility and duty of every planet conscious human being to try their level best to reduce
their contribution to carbon emissionss. Besides reducing waste and consequent reductions in air
and land pollution, it will lead to number of individualized benefits. It will allow garment
manufacturing businesses to demonstrate their commitment to reducing their negative impact on
the climate and the planet. It will bring behavioral change in buyers leading to change in
choices by moving towards carbon neutral suppliers. Many business leaders know that taking a
stand on climate change will produce benefits in the form of customer loyalty, and may help
capture new markets. It will also help in transforming the currently energy intensive
manufacturing industry to cleaner and less carbon intensive technology. Above all, it will
facilitate to interpret space, light and other requirements of employees thus leading to
improvement in their working conditions and health by providing better options with reduction in
carbon emissions.

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The global apparel industry has taken several strides towards reducing its carbon
emissions and meeting the challenges of building a more sustainable future. At the
same time there is a growing awareness o f environmental issues among consumers
who are increasingly now increasingly insisting on apparel products complying with
environmental standards. These complementary trends will hopefully continue to
drive the industry towards offering the consumer produc ts that are not only red,
blue, white etc. but also green.

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Learning Outcome From the Annexes

Annexure 2
This annexure was designed for us to collect all the basic details related to the company
like the hierarchy of each department, number of employees working in any
department, types of machines used. The nature of the business, the revenue generated
and the year of establishment. From this annexure I was able to understand the basic
structure of working in the export house and the persons who were the overall decision
makers.

Annexes 3 & 4
These annexes required us to fill the information regarding the spreading and cutting
activities in the industry. To fill these one had to be in the work-floor, standing and
observing the micro-details involved in the processes. These annexures helped in
understanding the different spreading modes for different types of fabric. While filling
the END-BITS records, one could learn that how much fabric is under-utilised and the
importance of efficient marker planning.

Annexure 5
The fifth annexure required us to carry out time study in the sewing department
wherein the operation bulletin of a particular style was first observed and the Standard
Allocated Minute (SAM) of each element of each operation was then calculated. This
annexure helped in understanding the bottleneck points in the production process and
the problems in fabric handling and the solutions devised by the I.E and line supervisor
to tackle a situation as such.

Annexure 6
This annexure required us to follow a style and note down the processes and the time
required for each process right from buyer and vendor meeting to shipping of an order.
This helped one understand which process required what amount of time to be
completed. And what are the resultant affects when any entity from the planned dates
gets deviated.

Annexure 7
The CAD department was covered in this annexure. The details regarding the CAD
software used in the factory along with its efficiency and ease of use from the Pattern
Master’s point of view as well as our point of view were noted. The annexure also
required us to learn about other CAD softwares used and availabe for the industry and
make a thorough comparison based on the criteria provided to understand which
software should be used in which type of industry and the merits or demerits of each

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Annexure 8
Here, the various softwares used in the unit were evaluated based on many criteria such
as overall software requirements, functionality aspects, web based usage, costs, etc.
While filling the annexure I happened to learn the usability of the ERP system World
Fashion Exchange(WFX) used in merchandising dept. and while doing that I also
got to understand the difference between the working of the ERP system NOW that was
taught at NIFT. This annexure helped me to think about various advancements/changes
that could be done in the export house in terms of ease of access in softwares to reduce
time which otherwise is done manually.

Annexure 9
The ninth annexure contained details regarding the plant layout to be filled. It contained
the following sheets: The factory coverage area was around 150*350 SQ. FT. The various
sheets in the annexure helped me understand the importance of lighting in the work-
floor and the cost of electricity as an overhead expense that had to be kept in mind
during costing of a garment. The material handling and time taken for flow of materials
from one section of the industry to another was also understood while filling this
particular annexure. Being able to look into the CAD files of the industry I could gain
some perspective in the construction of an industry from the architect’s point of view
and the stringent planning that goes in setting up a factory keeping in mind the capacity
and the scalability factors in mind.

Annexure 10
This annexure helped me understand the importance of fit and look of a sample in the
garment manufacturing process. Following up different styles and noting down the
reasons for rejection of samples by the buying house made me more alert of the minute
details that go into production.

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