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MIRROR, MIRROR
A Revievsr of Himalayanf F|lininaking^
languages. These arc distributed
Not that we don't believe in catching them to school? and colleges all over
while they're young. WWF also organises the world. If you can
WWF World Wide Fund For Nature special training courses to help teachers incor-
(formerly World Wildlife Fund) porate conservation into the curriculum.
International Secretariat, 1196 Gland, Switzerland! 20,000 primary teachers in Madagascar
have already taken part
Outside the industrialised west, no-one
has to be told to respect their elders. It 's
« simply the way society is organised.
Which is why WWF - World Wide Fund
for Nature tries to work with older people in
the villages of the rainforests. Wirh WWF's
help, they learn to teach t!ie younger mem-
bers of their communities about conservation
In Kafuc Flats, Zambia, it's Chief
Hamusonde (93).
Chief Bakary (78), is our man in Anjavi-
mihavanana, northern Madagascar.
ln Ban Ktong Sai, Thailand, we invoke
the Venerable fapasro Bhikkhu, seventy-
three year old chief Buddhist monk.
This isn't just expediency, it's how WWF
believes conservation projects should be run.
Before you teach someone, we believe
you have to learn from them.
We spend years vi si t i ng village after
village, t a l k i n g to the people, listening to
them, living with them, understanding how
they live their lives.
Only then are we able to gain the confi-
dence of the village elder*.
Once they realise we're on their siie, our
elderly converts promote conscrvatioi with
a zeal that belies their years.
"Uncle" Prom (68), another of ourThai
community leaders, tells us that he Frequently
gets scolded when he starts telling peope in
the market that they should leave the fosses
alone. But he gets results.
Uncle Prom and his fellow villajeri
recently managed to prevent a new losing
concession, and set up a community fcrest
where tree felling is now forbidden.
Ninety-three year old Chief Hamusonle
also makes things happen.
Income from the Kafuc Flats game reserve
in Zambia is funding a school, a clinicand
new water boreholes for the local vilSges.
In Madagascar, seventy-eight yef old
Chief Bakary's village makes a pufit by
selling fruit grown in their new tree ifirsery.
More importantly, Chief Bakary Village
now takes fewer trees from the rahforest
because the nursery can provide frewood
and poles for construction.
And WWF produce teaching aids as well
as teachers.
We commission educational
factsheets, booklets, posters and
videos in over twenty different
help our D
work
with a
ENOUG
donation H
or a
legacy
F O R OUR
please TEACHER
write ro T R A I N I N
the
members
G
hip PROGRAMME.
officer at
the
address
opposite.
You
only have
to look
around
you to see
that the
World
still has
art awful
lot to
learn
about
conservat
ion.

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24 KATHA "The Himal ©


1994 is
Storm Raged All published
every two
Night Long" by months by
Himal
Indra Bahadur Rai Associatio
n, PO Box
'42,
Cover: Ram Bahadur Sridarbar
Ta Marg,
ma Laiitpur,
ng Nepal. Tel:
, 9771
of 523845,
W
Fax:
521013.
ar
ISSN 1012
d
9804,
No
Library of
.3
Congress
Be
Card,
bh
Catalogue
ar No. 88
Vill 912882.
ag Subscriptio
e, n
Ka informatio
bh n on page
re 5. Printing:
y Jagadamba
Pa Offset. Tel:
lan 521393.
ch
ow Mar/Apr 1994
k HIMAL . 1
Di
stri
ct,
wi
eld
sa
So
ny
U-
Ma
tic.
Pi
ctu
re
by
Co
re
y
R.
Da
vis
,
of
W
as
hin
gt
on
D
C,
This mountain* is not going to come to you ...
You have to go to it !

So, we will take you there. And make it a thoroughly


enjoyable experience too !
* Sagarmatha (Mt.Everest), the world's most famous and highest mountain altitude 8S48 m.
Treks can go up to the base camp. Fly to the nearest airstrip in Lukla. Trek 15 days. Other
famous peaks in the neighbourhood — Lhotse (8516m.). Makalu (8463m.), Cho oyu (8201m.),
Gyachunkang (7952m.), Nuptse (7855m.), Pumori (7161m.), Amadablam (6812m.)

MMIT NEPAL TREKKING

Write or call us at:

P.O.Box 1406, Kopundol Height


Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 525408, 521810
Fax: 977 I 523 737
MAIL

It is high time for Nepal's so-called World tourism, which in a global scale
Need Activism activists to emerge from the seminar represents neo-colonial imperialism. I
Missing from Manisha Aryal's article on rooms and workshops and dirty their wish to comment on Scotf s suggestions
Chipko's aftermath, "Axing Chipko" feet in the rough and tumble world of for a solution.
(Jan/Feb 1994), was analysis of why the activism. There are two groups of players in
movement did not spread to Nepal -one Gyan Kumar Chhetri the new colonies that he refers to,
place where grassroots public Lazimpat, Kathmandu trekkers and climbers. Climbers accept a
movements concerning environment, risk of death of two to three percent per
health and literacy are crying needs. Chauvinist from Barun escapade, and face a high rate of illness
The only movement that has While I read each issue of Himal from and disability. That is the price they pay
happened in Nepal in the name of masthead to footprint, I am extremely to reach for the top. Their high altitude
grassroots participation seems to have concerned about the growing servants pay the same human price, and
been the political movement of 1990 ~ the chauvinistic sentiments evident in the stand to gain very little in contrast to
apotheosis and the epitaph of Nepali Abominably Yours column. Your fast- their charges. Climbing alpine style
activism. It has been four years since talking hairy friend from the Barun extracts a higher price of the aspirants,
democracy arrived in Nepal. And people's Valley, despite his enviable knowledge of but fewer worker bees are exposed to the
political energies have been sapped by mountain e-mail, is showing rapid signs risks.
leaders who do nothing more than play of intellectual collapse, as evident in his The trekkers are an entirely different
out intrigues upon one another in diatribes against Homo sapiens, Indian lot, mere mortals who pay to be
Kathmandu, at the expense of the larger meteorologists, the entire Third World shepherded through the Himalaya, and
citizenry. The goals of true participatory and Socialism. who desire some of the comforts of home
democracy appears to be receding rather Certainly, the rights of free on the trails. They are willing to pay, and
than coming any nearer. Today's expression should be extended to some want to be rescued if they stub their
democracy does not provide a voice nor wildlife, but only up to a limit. This toes. However, few trekkers think of the
energise people from villages and towns. should not become a form of license as it health of their servants.
Why is it that any sustained activism, will undermine the whole notion of There is a new focus on green
away from ploitics, has failed to take root rights. If the writer of this regrettable trekking, which Doug Scott mentions.
and achieve results in Nepal? Why this column does not take back his Savvy Nepali trekking lodge owners
reluctance to have any public debate and unacceptable views, we will send the now put trash cans along the trail, but
participation on matters of national or Bajrang Dal after him. the contents are dumped over the side of
local significance? Himal should have Down with all forms of chauvinistic the hill every other day when the trekker,
looked into these questions as well and bipedalism! Sanjay Pratap East ofKatlash, who is drinking mineral water from a
tried to draw lessons from the New Delhi plastic bottle that he discards into the
movements that have long blazed a trail container, isn't looking. But what about
across the hills of India. Aryal's Trekking, Servitude, Inflation the porter?
dissection Doug Scott, veteran Himalayan Porters make about U$ 2 a day today
of Chipko, summiteer and recent devotee of green in eastern Nepal, if working for trekkers,
while climbing, has called attention to the and less if working for shopkeepers or
inequities in the trekking tourism farmers, carrying supplies or produce.
business (Jan/Feb 1994). He is When I first came to Nepal, 25 years ago
particularly concerned with the plight to trek, they were making U$ 1.50 to U$ 2
of the porters who are paid what he a day. A cup of coffee is now at least a
terms slave wages. While it is useful to dollar back home, and it was half that
call attention to this problem, it is back then. But a meal of dal-bhat on the
tourism itself — the largest industry in trail away from the trekkers' footprints,
the world — that is exploitative. all you can eat, in the East costs 40 cents
Trekkers are just a small part of Third today. This

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 3


illuminating, would have been more
useful with such a discussioa
associated commerce, still the major plenty of economists who could do this.
arena where porters are used. Trekker Does thfe model predict the results I
is not much different than 25 years ago. portering is but a small part of the anticipate? Realistically, could such a
So the trekker's dollar goes much remote transportation economy. The rule be enforced?
further in Nepal today than it did a inflationary impact of a dramatic rise in Look for ways to improve the
quarter of a century ago, making the porter rates is very real. Scott dismisses conditions under which porters work.
country even more this issue perfunctorily, " Have police checkposts do more than
attractive for the not even committing a inspect the permits of trekkers. Let
tourist. That is the whole sentence to it. them decide if the porters have the
nature of tourist Porters would flock proper equipment to undertake high
havens today, they are to the trekker trails, altitude trek that is being asked of
great value for there would be no one them. Develop a standard of human
money, and they also to carry food to resource care for porters working for
depend on a concept the deficit areas, and trekking agencies. All this is harder to
of servitude among the cost for mule do than simplistically saying, "Just pay
the natives, an aspect carriage would the porter more."
of culture that is also increase. In the Nepal, away from the popular
indigenous to many mid-1980s, trekking trails and the deadly pollution
ethnic groups in Nepal ceased being of Kathmandu, continues to be a
Nepal. Doug Scott self-sufficient in paradise for trekkers. When venturing
proposes porters be food production. In off the beaten path, one can share the
paid a minimum of £ most areas now, the land people's hospi-tality in ways that are
2, or double what they are paid today. does not grow enough to sustain its impossible anywhere else in the world.
He would have this be uniform subsistence farmer inhabitants. They By paying the going rate for food and
throughout the country. must supplement by wage labour. porterage in such a situation, the
If porter wages for trekking were Famines, still rare in Nepal's marginal trekker contributes to the hill and
regulated and doubled, the effect on the food balance situation, would become mountain economy in a meaningful
tourist would only be slight. Prices for more common. Mass movement of the way that is not inflationary. By
vacations through trekking agencies young men involved in portering would spending time with people, and sharing
would certainly increase, something further compromise the precarious their home culture, the outsider can
Scott desires, and there would be a social balance in the hills and become a friend, and not a visitor to the
move to limit services. Perhaps fewer mountains, where women head the colonies set up to do the master's
supplies would be carried, only one households most of the time. Prices for bidding. It is still this way in 75 percent
toilet tent instead of two, and less commodi-ties in most remote hill areas of the country. Such independent
kerosene, which would lead to burning would rise substantially, since trekking by cross-culturally conscious
of more wood. Certainly, no sirdar transportation is a major factor in the individuals is the experience that Nepal
would spend porter wages to carry out cost. should be promoting, one that the
garbage. More local food would be The impact would be much worse Nepali people want It is the agency
consumed by trekkers in an effort to than that already created by trekking trek, with the insulated bideshi coming
limit porter-rfotos, which now contain parties paying more for food. Having a through with his retinue, that is the
imported delicacies, to maintain profit uniform price throughout the country problem.
margins. This could have a devastating would be unfair as well, as costs are Stephen
impact on the local food resources. generally higher in the West, and this Bezruchka Seattle,
Trekking parties already pay twice area would not receive the differential it USA
or more than what locals do for food does now, further compromising the
staples. This has created significant marginal economy there. Insist on Indigenous
inflation in the hills. No local will feed Yes, the porters are maltreated, I had mixed feelings upon reading
his children eggs when he can sell them cheated and misused. Their wages are a Rajendra Pradhan's "A Native by Any
to trekkers at twice the village market pittance for the trekkers. Because of Other Name..." (Jan/Feb 1994). The
price. So, high protein items and fresh that, they are treated no better than question of indigenousness is not an
produce would be a smaller fraction of pack animals, and too often left to die outcome of an overnight discussion. I
the local diet. The fine art of bargaining on snowy passes during storms by strongly feel strongly, that the majority
is lost on today's sirdars when the uncaring sirdars. How could a human of Nepalis are indigenous people. Even
needs of their clients and the rushed being work that hard carrying a load all by the definition of the International
pace for Instant Everest is more day that many trekkers cannot lift, for Labour Organisation quoted by
important than the time required to only two dollars a day? Pradhan, we seem to have fulfilled the
determine and pay the local price. Instead of a blanket recommen- required criteria. Aren't we the first-
The major effect, however, would dation, as Scott does, one might begin comers to this land? If you go through
be to increase the price of portering all by modelling the effect of an increased the history of Nepal, you will find that
over the country for non-trekking fixed price on porter wages. Nepal has Gorkha was a Gurung kingdom, the

4 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994


Subscription Rates strong
Send movements
subscriptions bycorrespondence
i related 'indigenousto:
Only Bank -drafts acceptable for subscription orders people'
South do not
Asia: P.O. Boxseem to stand
42, Lailtpur, a chance
Nepal
made to Himal inNcpal.DoNOT send cash in maiL when confronted by State power of
Individuals : Year Iyr» mainstream South Asia.
Nepal NRs 220 400 Tika Gurung
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Other S. Asian Countries U$ 12 20 Australia; Indra Ban, 12 Norfolk St.,
North America U$ 2250 40
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Elsewhere Of! 45 of Hinduism and Christainity {Mail,
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Jan/Feb
United 1994)
Kingdom quite interesting.
& Ireland: JotiGiri (Ref: H),
Institution!] However, he has failed to mention any
Nepal NRs 600 lioo
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guru
The who being
Netherlands: C. F. God-incarnate,
de Stoppelaar, offered
Bhutan Other 5. Asian
K T. .
Nu 640
himself as a sacrifice for the sins of the
25 world, and rose from the dead on the
Countries US 45
North America U$ 40 70 third day. Till such a figure emerges,
Germany DM 70 120 Switzerland; Heiene Zingg, TannerAveg 18,
United Kingdom & Ireland £ 30 50 Jesus remains
CH-3073, Guemligen,unique for me. Ramesh
Switzerland
Netherlands ' Dfl 100 180 Khatry
Rtstuf
Europe Nepal
Durga PressBible Ashram
(HIMAU, Kathmandu
Luitpoldstr. 20.
Elsewhere US 45 SO
Wealth of Music In an introduction to his collection
eastern hills were ruled by the Rais and With reference to Himal's Music issue dated 31 May 1978, Bech writes that "the
Limbus, and so on. These people are (Nov/Dec 1993), it might interest your materials in the various media and the
differentiated by terms like 'matwali', readers to know that in the Archives of data contained in them provide a
'janajati', etc., in much the same way as Traditional Music of Indiana University foundation and stimulus for Nepalese
terms such as 'aborigine', 'tribal' and is located the Terence R. Bech Nepal ethnomusicology to build upon and
'savages' were used in the West. In Music Research Collection. According expand in becoming an important
ignorance, some people even started to its catalog, the Bech Collection has discipline and field for research in the
calling them 'bhotey'. In the present 400 reel-to-reel tapes, 2000 black and larger area of. South Asian studies."
context, they all have claimed to be white negatives, 1500 colour After receiving a Master of Music
indigenous in search of their identity. transparencies, and 120 musical degree at Indiana University, Bech came
These people, who are willing to call instruments, 41 life history to Nepal in 1964 as a Peace Corps
themselves indigenous even when it is a ethnographies, 7500 song texts, 200 volunteer and began collecting Nepali
derogatory term as Pradhan writes, musical transcriptions in manuscript music. After his Peace Corps stint,
surely represent the marginalised form. Copies of 1212 commercially between 1967 and 1973, he conducted
section of the society. recorded songs are also available. ethnomusicological survey research,
Today, people have become more carried out life history studies of Nepali
conscious of their ancestry. It is quite musicians, and took photographs in
appropriate for them to demand the addition to intensively recording Nepali
land which their forefathers once used folk music in eastern and central Nepal.
to til. Secessionist tendencies are The catalog, produced in 1978, is a
cropping up everywhere. If certain useful but not complete guide to the
groups had not dominated others and collection. It consists of six indices
had instead remained on their own categorised by culture group,
lands, the idea of Balkanisation would geographical area, language, musical
never have arisen, in this region or instrument, song title, and
elsewhere. subject/context For each song in the
If only the Naga, Mizo and Monpa collection, the catalog provides the date
are to be called indigenous people in the and place of recording, the singer's
long stretch of the Himalaya, then do name, the context in which the song
we need to rebel against the was performed, the date of composition,
government with all pos-sible and the instrument used. The text of
strategies? Incidentally, the movements quite a few of the songs are also
to promote the self-identity of Nagas available in Nepal, and in some cases in
was severely weakened and English as well.
factionalised with the death of Phizo, The 41 life histories
and similarly the movement of the provide
Mizos was dissipated after Laldenga
submitted to the Indian government.
These experiences show how even
information on musicians I am a Ngalong, but I am against
whose works have been Himal on E- the drastic implementation of the social
recorded in this collection. One
of these that I was able to see Mail customs and traditions of my
community on other communities who
ran into more than 600 written : With the help of Mercantile have their own customs and traditions.
pages in Nepali (with English Office These customs and traditions get in the
translation).A quick reading Systems of Kathmandu, Himal way of living even in our own
is now
suggested that these texts will reachable by e-mail. Please
community but people have not been
not only be useful for use the able to voice their misgivings due to fear
musicologists but also for i address only lor of incarceration and the wellbeing of
otherscholars of Nepali history, correspondence with dear and loved ones. This rule, the
culture and society. f the editors. Do not unload Driglam Namza, is now being
Information on this digests, disregarded by the members and
collection can be obtained from letters to family, or cooking younger generation of the elite ruling
Archives of Traditional Music, recipes. class, while the ordinary citizen must
Morrison 120, Indiana bear the brunt of the men in blue,
University, Bloomington, IN himal@rnosrtepalern should they try to follow the way of the
47401, USA. et.in elites. The wool the Royal Government
Pratyoush si has pulled over the eyes of the ordinary

Onta Thamel, citizens is not going to last long.
Kathmandu The movement started by the
dissidents in exile began on an earnest
Drukpas All note, but it is disappointing and
I am a Bhutanese citizen and I frustrating that the proper goals and
belong to the 'Ngalong' aims have been lost somewhere along
community. I have been living the road. New political parties are
in exile for the last three years mushrooming amongst the refugee
(and in Nepal since July 1993} community even with most of the
and have been a silent political existing parties lacking proper aims and
observer of the unfolding goals. Forming a new party and talking
political crisis. These past few to the media will not get us anywhere.
years, I have observed that the We cannot bring about changes in
media, including Himal, and Bhutan while living in exile, and that
other organisations have only too in a third country. If the leadership
looked at the 'Lhotshampa' of the political parties in exile have the
angle; the rest of Bhutan has larger interest of their country and
been completely ignored. people in their mind and heart, they
While I am inclined to should work jointly and concentrate
sympathise with my their efforts on taking back all the
Lhotshampa brethren, I would refugees with dignity and respect.
also like to point out the The question of democracy in
following observations and Bhutan is a matter to be settled within
feelings — these views are the boundaries of Bhutan and not from a
personal and in no way third country. I do not support that there
connected to the machinery of should be preconditions for return,
any political or non-political either on the part of the Royal
organisation. Government or on the part of the dissi-
That the present political dent groups in exile. Rather, as a citizen,
crisis in Bhutan which has led I demand that the Royal Government
to an exodus of refugees and take back all the refugees and respect
asylum-seekers to Nepal is the their individual rights. The dissident
making of the Royal groups must put their efforts into this
Government of Bhutan is a fact rather than setting pre-conditions.
beyond doubt. The main factors The term 'Drukpa' has been used
leading to this crisis can be time and again to refer to citizens of
directly attributed to the lack of Bhutan from the Western districts. It is
understanding of the people's important to know that the word "Druk"
sentiment and misinterpretation means Bhutan and "pa" the inhabitants
of the concept of 'nationalism' of the country. Hence, any citizen must
on the part of the Royal consider himself/hers elf a
Government. Nationalism is
not 'Driglam Namza'; it must
come from the core of an
individual's mind.
'Drukpa', regardless of which
community he/she is from.
I condemn the categorisation
process demanded by the Royal
Government with regard to the popula-
tion in the refugee camps. Their concern
should be with two categories only, viz.
national and non-national. The Royal
Government must realise that this
process is an internal matter and not the
concern of any other government.
The propaganda of ethnicity as
propagated by the Royal Government
carries no merit. The oppression meted
out on the Lhotshampas is the only
aspect that has come to the knowledge
of the world as they have been forced to
flee Bhutan. But what of the oppression
of the other communities? The ordinary
citizens of Bhutan have never had any
say in the affairs of the government,
their minds haying been enslaved by
the ruling oligarchy. The Lhotshampas
in exile have faced hardship and
turmoil, but they, at least, are able to
express themselves freely. But the
communities that remain within the
country, too, are suffering under the
heavy yoke of the present regime; they
too want reforms in the country.
The reforms and changes in Bhutan
should be based on the aspirations and
betterment of Bhutanese citizens
without compromising the sovereignty
and national integrity of the country. To
this effect, the Royal Government, on its
part, must show goodwill by respecting
the articles of the Universal Declaration
of Human Rights, to which it is a
signatory.
We must create a situation in which the
people of Bhutan can once again live in
peace and tranquillity as they did before
1988. Like-minded people must work
towards an achievable goal that is
appropriate for Druk-Yul and its citizens.
Chencho Jigme Dorji presently in Jorpati,
Kathnutndu,

i Readers are invited to comment,


criticise or add to information and
opinions appearing in HimaL
Letters should be to the point and
may be edited. Letters which are
unsigned andor without addresses
will not be entertained, Please
include daytim e contact telephone
number, if available.

6 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994


way up
A t Himal magazine, we ran a film festival
for three days and rejoiced for weeks
afterwards. The audience's warm
embrace of a festival of documentary
films was so meaningful that we are
energised even in the editing of this
magazine. The cover features of this
issue are all spinoffs from Film
Himalaya 1994.
Himal welcomes Anmole Prasad,
lawyer and poet of Kalimpong, into
Himal's masthead as Consulting Editor.
While Anmole was earlier a stay wire to
Himal's superstructure, he now
becomes part of the foundation. He
joins ourbabu from Delhi, Sanjeev
Prakash. And we thank friend Ed Koren
YOU CAN of The New Yorker for the fuzzy
creatures he has gifted Himal (see
adjacent).
...YOU CAN R8AD Another paatra of our appreciation
is Calfornian John Baccaglini of Barbara
Bella & Associates, who believes that
the North American readers must have
access to Himal. If you have noticed
improvements in the punctuality of this
magazine and its print quality, you have
to thank John's nudgings-by-facsimile.
When Himal began publishing
seven years ago, we knew that this was
one magazine that would not be an
immediate best-seller. Our forte is in
presenting issues rather than news of
the day, the greys rather than the blacks
and whites. Our gain in readership has
therefore been tortuously slow.
In trying to reach the South Asian
market without an advertising budget,
nor any viable network to bank upon,
Pema Wangchuk Dorjee has a task that
is the marketing equivalent of doing the
Kangshung Face, solo. But all of us here
have understood well Himal's First
Law of Market Penetration, which
runs: "Survival is the best marketing
strategy."
We could still use more advertisers,
though, as long as you do not brew
beer, peddle cigarettes, or operate
casinos.
- Kanak Marti Dixit

Mar/Apr
notes from the festival
A review of the Himalayan films brought together by
Film Himalaya 1994 indicates that there are many
to applaud and enough to criticise.

by Anmole Prasad

n 18 February, Sri Mustangi Rajasaheb go,and screened back-to-back in two iconography, temples, monasteries and
Jigme Parbal Bista flagged off Film small theatres at the Russian Cultural holymen(Baraka,inSufi,meansthebreath
Himalaya 1994, a three-day-festival of Centre in Kahtmandu, Film Himalaya of life). The second segment lays on a
documentaries and films at a 1994 was carried off with elan and guided tour, of the wretched plight of
refreshingly brief and dignified precision, leaving little post-festival modern man, military and industrial
inauguration, followed by the screening acrimony in its wake. horrors, and the evils of modernity. The
of the film Baraka. third segmentagain finds relief in images
This was Baraka's Asia premiere — Pyrotechnic Cinema of natural beauty and celestial grandeur,
and there were other firsts as well. This Baraka, producer MargMagid son's showcasing cinematographer RonFricke's
was decidedly the first festival of films on larger-than-life panorama of the prestidigtal skill with the camera.
the Himalaya and its peoples; probably human condition, began appropriately Technically, the film is breathtaking,
the first in the region to focus almost enough with images of the Himalaya— often carrying the viewer a way with Dali-
exclusively on documentaries; and theMount Everest panorama, the esque portraits of burning oilfields in the
certainly, the first that showed more than 'eyes' of Swayambhu, and shrouded Persian Gulf, or a heliborne panning of
token respect for the inhabitants of the shapes swaying in and out of a foggy hundreds of junked B-52bombers parked
Himalayan region. Bhaktapur morning. The film is in the Arizona desert (with Tibetan
The fare was as large as it was varied. segmented in three parts, the first monastery horns droning an incongruous
Chosen by a Kathmandu-based selection consisting of spiritual threnody on the soundtrack). One
panel of locals and expatriates, the films memorable sequence, showing a part of
and documentaries ranged over subjects 8 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1993 the Ramayana performed in Borobodur
as diverse as development, anthropology, with dancers mimicking the monkey
ethnography, religion, ecology and hordes of Hanuman, is filmed over a sea
environment, tourism, wildlife, of brown arms and torsos, with the
spiritualism, culture, architecture, soundtrack setting up a slieet-of-sound
medicine and history. There were fikns- gibbering.
on-the-making-of-films, others that were Despite the absence of any
tainted with Hollywood hype,and others commentary, Baraka is unabashedly
that were plain downhome entertainment. propagandistic. Whilst maintaining a
Cobbled together with a shoestring romantic perspective on the spiritual
budget of U$ 8000, a pittance as festivals
wealth of developing countries, the film anonymous shots of New York City traffic several traumatic seconds before the cut
remains ethnically stratified, ending up blurred by computerised time-lapse effect. to a breezy sky and scudding clouds. The
as an indictment of the southern While its audio-visual pyrotechnics are time-lapse camera which creates
hemispherefor its squalorand ignorance, overwhelming, Baraka is a interesting visuals of accelerated sunrises
apportioning the blame for mindless disappointment. The New York Times and storm clouds is overused on cityscapes
modernity and consumerism on the reviewer described it as a "visual poem", inaham-fistedeffortto portray thefrantic
Chinese and Japanese, and on the rest of but it is a troubled poem, not without its pace of urban life. The sound-track,
the Third World for environmental own crude symbolism: towards the end consisting of ethnic music beefed up with
degradation, strife and poverty. Images of the film the audience is treated to a electronic effects, was often intrusiveand
of the North are restricted to a few close-up of a burning Varanasi corpse for
Vision played to a packed 50-seater generously to widespread use of plastic
auditorium (most of the tickets had been products and packaging.
taken by Kathmandu's Nepal Eye The Splendour of Carhwal and
Hospital). Marchiak follows the story of Roopkund, filmed and directed astutely by
Khamsiyar Tamang, a woman blinded by Victor Banerjee during the monsoon,
cataract who is carried to Kathmandu provides images of unsurpassing beauty
from far-flung Gurmu in a doko to of the lush bugyals (meadows) of Kusli
undergoeyesurgery.Thefilmisdelivered Kalyani softened by half-light and the
from becoming another sterile rush of rain clouds. Viewers were also
documentary onhealth and development treated to some quaint vignettes of the
by the presence of Dr. Sanduk Ruit, who bagpipe tradition in the western
performs the successful operation at the Himalaya. This lyrical portrait of
Nepal Eye Hospital, and who virtually Uttarakhand, however, is marred by a
requisitions the narration of the film, narrative and commentary as windy as
imbuing it with a loquacious warmth and the high meadows of Garhwal.
spirit. The second day opened with the
Interestingly, Himalayan Vision was festival' spiecede resistance,Honey Hunters
one of the few festival films that also of Nepal, a fine ethrir graphically-sensitive
examined the after-effects of filmmaking work that riv is viewer interest.
on its subjects. Having regained her Filmmakers Eric valliandDianeSummers
eyesight, Khamsiyar Tamang returns to take us on a journey "somewhere" in
her village, only to find herself alienated Central Nepal, whore aquintetof intrepid
and maladjusted. She attempts to follow Gurungs led by the 60-year-old Manilal
Jigme Parbat Bista, Raja of Mustang, the film crew back to the city and it is only risk life and limb by dangling over sheer
inaugurates Flim Himalaya 1994. The with some convincing that she finally cliffs to smoke out swarms of black bees
Himalaya has been the subject of many settles back into her community. from their hives. Their reward is a golden
documentaries over the decades, he said, Chugging up with Granny profiles the harvest of wild honey.
and it was proper that the local inhabitants
also get to view them. This was the first time
moribund railroad from Siliguri to Honey Hunters, edited and produced
the Raja had opened a public function in Darjeeling. Produced by Ashok Raina, seamlessly, with a rich if inappropriate
Kathmandu. the film is presented with uninspired soundtrack, celebrates the skill and daring
cinematography and and wooden of th e gen erations of G urung who, ha vi ng
boorish. The film closes with whirling commentary by Darjeeling historian shunned the drudgery of agriculture, run
dervishes and a recapitulation of the Kumar Pradhan.However,Kathmandu's the gauntlet of the giant black swarms.
earlier spiritual themes. audience seemed to take to Pradhan's The film was followed by The Making of
recitation of Darjeeling children's ditties. Honey Hunters, which in rum celebrates
Licking Honey Director Gautam Sonti's Plastic Plastic the skill and daring of the crew that shot
With theexceptionperhaps of theChinese records the efforts of the Mussoorie the film, offering self-conscious glimpses
entry Dao Mao Zei, none of the other films schools to raise local awareness and of the Westerners encumbered by hi-tech
of the festival attempted a canvas as large combat shop ping bag debris on the slopes. mountaineering impedimenta, dangling
as Baraka, but many did make their point The gum-chewing students are alongside the nimble-footed honey-
just as effectively. The first array of the themselves blissfully unaware that the hunters.
festival was taken up with several small film is funded by Colgate Palmolive Co-director Summers, who
films. Catherine Marchiak's Himalayan (India) Ltd., a megacorp that contributes introduced the film and answered
questions after the screening, said the
.location of Honey Hunters has been a
closely-held secret,al though Manilal was
recently in Kathmandu for a cataract
operation. Himalayan Vision for a honey
hunter!
While Honey Hunters remains an
expert and sympathetic ethnographic
record, it tends to take an excessively fond
look at the Gurung clan, reducing its
members at times to quaint hobbits of
Himalayan Middle-Earth. But patriarch
Manilal is allowed the last word: holding
out a gnarled palm dripping with honey,
he repeats the old adage, "Jasle maha
kardcha, usle hath chaatcha!" (He who
draw honey, gets to lick the hand.)

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 9


oracles are cryptic and the interlocutor
from among the gathered villagers finds
his own meanings within them.
Thecinta ends with the symbolic
despatch of a live lizard to the nether
world across a bridge of stretched twine
and exorcism of the spirits from thebodies
of two afflicted villagers, a mother and
daughter.
Another ethnographic film, but in an
entirely different vein, was Jyapu:
Industrious Productivity as a Lifestyle, which
takes a 28-minute look at the indigenous
farmers of Kathmandu Valley. Unlike
Deva and
Chlnta: stark
other ethnographic portraits at Film
ethnography. Himalaya 1994, this 1981 documentary
chooses to getdown on its knees and look
Nyinbas and Ladakhis at the community through children.
with an exaggerated sense of tragedy at
Polyandry among Nyinba in thearid hills Kathmandu farmyards seem to have
her polyandrous plight and imposing
of Humla was the theme of the BBC/ enough well-adjusted, snot-faced
upon her a 'civilising' monogamous
National Geographic production, The toddlers, going by Jyapu. Like Baraka, here
sensibility.
Dragon Bride, Thefilm charts the 'travails' too, there is no narration.
MajanGarlinski, Martin Gaenzle and
of 15-year-old Tsering Kangzun, who is Ancient Futures: LearningfromLadakh,
Albin Bieri put together Deva and
bom in the Year of the Dragon and is fated based on the Norwegian Helena Norberg-
Cinta, 127 minutes of stark footage on
to marry four brothers in accordance with Hodge's book by the same name, makes
shamanic rites of Kulunge and
the customs of the community. for a chilling before/ after story on Ladakh.
Mehawang Rai of East Nepal. Opening
Constructed out of a series of The Indian Government's presumably
on the night of the full moon of Baisakh,
interviews with the family and relatives well-intentioned construction of a
the film is laid out in two parts. In the first
of both Tsering Kangzum and her highway into Ladakh has brought with it
part {deva, divinity), libations are poured
prospective husbands, the Nyinba consumerism and the destruction of an
and blood sacrifices made. Thesecond
community comes across as being entire, ancient way of life. The images of
part,rinte (meditation), recordsanall-
perfectly at ease with polyandry, and this New Ladakh are frightening: trucks
night seance wheredemons
despite a subtext of disapproval from spewing smoke into the crisp mountain
anddein'espossessthebodyoftheshaman
behind the lens. Articulate Nyinba air, scrawny teenagers lounging about
and pronounce oracles through him.
cheerfully discuss everything about Liz Hawley says it like it is. video parlours, exodus from the farms,
themselves, from matrimonial customs Filmed in searing floodlight, with and unemployment on the streets. But
and rituals to — with many a lewd aside little commentary and no score, the despite Norberg-Hodge's injunction —
— the syndicated conjugal relations. documentary is almostminimalist,a style she has been a longtime observer and
Despite the obligatory plaints, perhaps entirely suited to the objective of 'visitngactivisf in Ladakh—onthepitfalls
more for the benefit of the Western documentation. The virtually immobile of idealising traditional Ladakh, the film
filmmakers, Nyinba women seem not cameraandthelivesoundtrack of chanting ends up doing just that. The Ladakh of
unaware of the advantages of having and incessant drumming imparts to the yore, according to Ancient Futures, was a
several breadwinners in the house. documentary a dreamlike quality. The charmed place that knew no lack of
Ever inquisitive, director Joanna medication or schools, no high death
Head'scamera renders adetailed account rates...
of the preparations for and the marriage Two archival films deserve mention:
of Tsering Kangzum. At one point, the one, Lowell Thomas' garrulous Return to
crew is shooed out of a room by an irate Shangri La, which somehow manages to
nanny who screams "Why can't you wait encompass all of early 1970sNepal within
until I've finished?" as she paints the wal Is just an hour of footage; and the other a
with clay. Elaborate costumes transform silent film, First American Mission to Nepal,
Nyinba from scrubby farmers into April 1947, taken before any motor road
strutting mythical figures, and the groom's led to Kathmandu. The journey up the
company engages the bride's household tortuous trail from Bhimphedi leads to a
in a battle of riddles and song in order to Kathmandu that is mired in the Rana
win the bride. The documentary dwells times. It was appropriate that the film was
overtly long on Tsering Kangzum's tearful introduced by Huta Ram Baidya, an old-
departure for her home — a normal timer agricultural engineer and Valley
enough Jea ve-takingandperhapsderigewr environmentalist who has seen
for any traditional bride — imbuing it Kathmandudevelopandthendisintigrate

10 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1993


Pek-Dorji's compassionate rendering of
the endangered Black Necked Cranes of
Bhutan, which ritually circle over a
monastery roof before setting off to their
summer home in Tibet; and the search of
thereincamarionofLamaTundu,theHigh
Lama of Thame monastery, in Norman G.
Dhyrenfurth's Samsara — a Tibetan
Tradition, set against the backdrop of the
achingly beautiful mountains around the
Khumbu and the Tasi Lapcha pass.
The search for spin tual peace was on
as far back as 1937: the festival organisers
even exhumed {with the help of USIS) a
copy of (the first) Lost Horizon. Tourism in
the Himalaya owes an old and deep debt
to James Hilton'sbookand Frank Capra's
filmforthecommodificationoftheregion
in front of his eyes. as an escapist paradise. Perceptions of the
Baidya provided commentary Manila! Tibetan plateau and its people were still
through the auditorium's PA system as Gurung looks foggy in the American mind when this
American Mission was being screened. His for honey. film was made. "He looks like a Chinese,
eerie voice-over boomed and echoed or aMongolian, or something!" screamsa
around the hall, lending an air of character describing the pilot who hijacks
melancholy and nostalgia to the the aircraft to Shangri La. In 1937, they did
proceedings. not recognise Himalayans,
Then, there were the lot of Disappointingly, and perhaps
mountaineering films, without which predictably enough, Hollywood's earliest
perhaps no Himalayan film festival can representation of a Buddhist Utopia
be complete. For its part, Film Himalaya merely resonates contemporaneous
1994 chose to screen old classics like The colonial and Christian missionary ideals
Conquest of Everest, of the successful John — the High Lama of Shangri La is a
L. Hunt team which put Tenzing and European abbot and his concrete domain
Hillary on top, as well as some recent a paradigm of civilised living where the
films which tended to be more brash. commode is indispensable for
contemplating one's navel.
Spiritual Horizons Bringing us squarely down to earth
If themes of developent, culture, after this foray into mythical Shangri La
environment, mountaineering and was Compassion in Exile, Mickey Lemle's
anthropology were on the festival's hard-hitting documentary on the Dalai
Lama, Tibet, and the Chinese. Before there

The horse thief of Dao Ma Zei


agenda, Himalayan spiritualism was
certainly its leit motif. Anwar Jamal's hard-
hitting documentary on the Tehri Dam
imbroglio in India, Call of the Bhagirathi,
featuring the Ganga as the desecrated
mother; On the Wings of Prayer, Siok Sian
Huta Ram Baidya remembers
Kathmandu.

was time to catch ur breath, however, we


were yanked back to Shangri La by In
Search of Buddha, Paolo Brunato's film on
the filming of The Little Buddha. Brunato
seeks to get spiritual mileage out of
Bernardo Bertolucci's musings of
Buddhism. The film played to a packed
house and nearly sparked off a riot for
want of seats. It seemed to attract a starry-
eyed audience that was thankfully absent
during the rest of the festival.
The camera follows Bertolucci on his
cinematic peregrinations as he confers
with lamas and holds forth on dharma.
Bolstering the documentary further are
Tussaudean extras and members of the
crew who play converted Westerners
practising Buddhism in Nepal, Bhutan
and the USA. Given the rumours that The
Little Buddha is financially adrift, perhaps
this d ocumentary was produced to market
a more user-friendly brand of Buddhism
before the real thing hits the theatres.
If onediscounts Lost Horizon asbeing
only of archaeological interest, then Dao
Ma Zei (The Horse Thief) was the only
feature film of the festival. Directed by
Tien Zhuangzhuang, a "fifth generation
filmmaker" of China, the movie follows
the trials and tribulations of a Tibetan
horse thief cast out by his community,
and of the misfortunes that are
subsequently visited upon his tribe and
upon him. It is unlikely that there is
another feature film on the Himalaya with
similar power, depth and mastery of
technique.
In more than one way, Dao Ma Zei
stood apart from other films of the festival,
and challenged the central theses of many.
While Ancient Futures extolls the virtues

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 11


of a Tibetan community's traditions, Dao
Ma Zei looks at theharshness of ostracism.
The Tibet of Lost Horizon, a utopia of
longevity and peace, is inverted into a
bleak landscape of stark violence and
immediate death. Barakn's optimism that
religion and spiritualism contain the
FILM HIMALAYA 1994 FILM
answers to the problems raised by the
degeneration of mod em society isnegated
by the denouement of Dao Ma Zei, where & *"*X?
HIMALAYA ARCHIVES
the penitent exile, having futilely
attempted to comeback to the fold, reverts
and dies an outcaste in the wild and
tfb KlK r ^i mH HIn
TRAVELLING FILM HIMALAYA
unforgiving land.
The vast stretches of the Tibetan
plateau are filmed with skill and care,
KiAIJfiBlpfjH'
FILM HIM^AYA 1996
showing an intensely surreal landscape.
Tien Zhuangzhuang also utilises circular
motifs — prayer wheels, water wheels,
circuits of the monastery, and Mani Rimdu The successful holding of the first-ever international festival of
dances — to good effect, although the
to Himalayan films and documentaries in Kathmandu on 18, 19
iffllWtf
religious iconography is over-exploited and 20 February has spawned a whole new set of activities.
in creating images of horror. We now seek the support of filmmakers, sponsors and
From another perspective, however, scholars to make these activities successful.
Dao Ma Zei was not without its politics. Its The Archives is a Kathmandu-based repository of films
acceptance must be tempered by the and documentaries on the Himalayan region. Its initial
understanding that it is a discourse holdings include 71 films from among those entered in the
generated by thedirector as representative February festival, whose producers have given us permission
of a dominant race making a film about a for non-commercial exhibition. The Archives will be fully
subjugated race. This distance between functional once Himal magazine is able to put together the
thedirectorandhissubject(s) is evident in required equipment. The Archives will be available for a
One sequence in the film, where the tribe nominal fee to filmmakers, researchers, students and
of Tibetans stands on a hillock releasing connoisseurs.
little slips of white paper inscribed with In order to give maximum exposure to the films shown in
prayers into the wind. As the swarm of Film Himalaya 1994, ten selected films from the Festival are
paper rises in the air, cries of "La Gyalo!" being sent around the Himalayan region as a travelling
(Victory to the Gods!) are heard. But there exhibition. And film connoisseurs who could not make it to
are other voices, too, in the soundtrack, Kathmandu for the festival will be able to savour a sampling of
crying "Bod Gyalo!" (Victory to Tibet!) what all the Festival had on offer in their part of the Himalaya.
Film Himalaya 1994 was not only a Initially, the films will travel to Pokhara, Palpa, Narayanghat,
festival of films. It was, at the same time, Nainital and Kalimpong. The organisers must be assured of
afestival of awareness. Theexhiliration of proper screening facilities and security of the films {no
the festival was overlaid by a deep copying allowed) before arrangements can be finalised for
pessimism and foreboding, a sense of other venues.
denudation and degradation of the In early March 1996, Himal magazine will organise the
mountains and of the people living here. second international film festival on the Himalaya — Film
The last image which comes to mind, and Himalaya 1996. While the February festival was organised
which refuses to go away, is this: the solely by Himal magazine, the 1996 event will have the
American Lowell Thomas in Return to participation of government agencies, academia, development
Shangri La, taking a lama affably by the organisations and the private sector. Representative feature
arm, asking, "How many prayers are there films from all over the region in addition to a broader
in that wheel of yours?" . selection of documentaries and a larger proportion of work by
regional filmmakers will be screened.
We seek your enthusiastic participation in all these
activities.

Suman Basnet Director,


Film Himalaya

12 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1993


Nepali
Victor documentarists. If it does, Film
Banerj&a the good, the bad and the
on the '94 will have been worth the
Himalaya ugly — were
timedock.
and the effort. deliberately screened, as
The seminal contribution of the one organiser said,
festival may be that it adds to the process "...because they are there.
of demythifying the Himalayan life and We wanted to present
landscape. The poetic vision of a people specimens of
living in perfect harmony with nature has filmmaking on the
endured long enough;itis time to examine Himalaya, a random
the whys and wherefores of how samplingof what is out
Himalayan lifestyles are being deeply there."
affected by marauding modernity. There It is difficult to
were few films on show that actually quarrel with that line of
proffered that alternative vision, but reasoning. Screening of
enough to hold out hope for the future. somedownright bad films
Films like The Dragon Bride, The Honey can have a cathartic effect
Hunter$ofNepalandShigatse:OneInjection on the sensitivities of
Asks for More had the artistic integrity committed filmmakers.
required to visually reflect Himalayan For instance, when the
traditions and lifestyles. great film archivist
All three films were made by Henri Langlois, of the
expatriate filmmakers, which went on to celebrated
prove that not all Western films which Cinematheque Paris,
focus on Oriental themes have a skewed, used to randomly screen
superficial perspective on Oriental films for cineastes,
themes, as is generally believed. showing a Fred Astaire
What was interesting was the picture right after a
divergent, almost adversarial, approach Bunuel or a Renoir
to documentary filmmaking witnessed at masterpiece. It was in
the festival—at the impromptu question- reaction to films that
were largely pitched in
the realms of fantasy that
Truffaut, Godard,
Chabrol and Ri vette set
out to make a new kind of

...because they
cinema, which came to be
known as the nouvelle
vague or new wave.
Given that Nepal has

are there hardly anything like a


filmmaking,
chlessdocumentary
mu

filmmaking, tradition
to speak of,
by Sanjeev Venna Kathmartdu was an odd
venue for the festival.

T
But, conversely, there
couldn'tbe a more apt
one considering that the
he organisersof most film festivals come Kathmandu audience
in for considerable flak on their choice would be the most aware
of films to screen. Film festivals, after all, of the people, lifestyles
are meant to showcase the best and issues being depicted
cinematic fare available; there is no on the films. Also, there is
place there for mediocre, much less the hope that the festival
bad, films. If one were to apply those will inspire and provoke
measures in estimating the worth of Film the latent filmmaking
Himalaya 1994, the verdict would have to talents of
be entirely unfavourable. Most of the fare
was bad or indifferent.
But, then, seeking only the best of
Himalayan film-making seems never to
have been the objective of the Film
Himalaya organisers. The key term,
instead, was "representative film-
making". Hence, all manner of films —
and-answer sessions with filmmakers after
screenings, or at the brief talk forum on the final day of
Film Himalaya. On one hand, you had the brigade of
anthropologists and ethnographers who pooh-poohed
the insatiable capacity of filmmakers to romanticise
the life and traditions of the Himalayan people. And on
the other, there were filmmakers who wondered
whether it was right to strip bare the lives of the hill
people on celluloid.
For instance, Diane Summers, who directed
Honey Hunters with her husband Eric Valli, said that her
approach is to see
peopleaspeople,ratherthananalyzethem to the core.
"Too much anthropology in a film becomes boring," she
said. Besides, isn't the argument that cinematic
aesthetics have no relevance in anthropological
films indefensible?
The social scientists present pitched themselves in
favour of straightforward ethnographic films which
didn't go walkabout insundry directions. Films like
Victor Banerjee's The Splendour of Garhwal and Roop
Kund earned a severe reaction from this lot. Gerald
Berreman, now a Professor of Anthropology with
the University of California at Berkeley, and who
incidentally did his original research
Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 13
singular nature of the festival, the
organisers let loose Elizabeth Hawley, a
long-time Kathmandu-based chronicler
of the Himalaya, on the British entry
Galahacf. of Everest. A supposed recreation
of George Leigh Mallory's 1924 expedition
with actor Brian Blessed in the lead role,
the film was drawn and quartered by
Hawley even though her role supposedly
was to introduce it. Mallory (who said
"Because it is there" with reference to his
desire to climb Everest) was a hero all
right, she said, but this was hardly the
film to celebrate that fact.
Incidentally, Galahad has proved
popular in the international mountain film
circuit. A reviewer at the Banff Festival of
Mountain Films wrote that it is "one of the
in Garhwal back in the 1960s could barely into the meaning of the Dharma grandest and most multi-layered films
contain his anger. "Ifs a bad film — through the skewed perspective of ever screened at Banff... It has been
contrived, dishonest and appallingly Bertolucri and his crew members. awarded major honours at mountain
silly," was his clear-cut verdict. Up on the The audience reacted strongly to festivals around the world." It is most
stage, Banerjee was harangued by others the appropriate, then, that Galahad was
as well for his transparent and saccharine- filmsthatitdidnotcarefor.Inkeepingthe panned at Film Himalaya 1994.
sweet attempt to romanticise the lives of The Kathmandu audience found it
Garhwali folks. His lame defence was easier to relate with the more activist-
that the documentary, meant to promote oriented films like Anwar Jamal's hard-
tourism, was funded by the Garhwal
Mandal Vikas Nigam.
Banerjee's verbose and wayward
documentary, as also several other films
on view, dearly proved that the dialogic
tradition has not reached documentary
films. Rather than let the hill people speak
about themselves, their customs and
traditions, these filmschose to tell us their
story through the stentorian tones of a
narrator. It is also clear that, for the
moment at least, most documentary films
on the Himalaya are made for viewing by
Western audiences.
If Film Himalaya were to inspire
documentary filmmakers of the region to
present life in the Himalaya as they see it,
perhaps in future we will not have to
suffer films like Galahad of Everest or In
Search of Buddha. Or even Return toShangri
La, which finds a bemused Lowell TTiomas,
the American raconteur, travelling
through Nepal remarking on curiosities
large and small. Thomas is obviously
tickled by the royal wedding of King
Birendra and Queen Aishwarya, but of
what value are his farcical observations?
Easily the worst film on view was In
Search of Buddha, a scatter-brained project
on the making of Bernardo Bertolucci's
Little Buddha. The documentary tarries for
much too long on the pseudo experiences
of Americans drawn to Kathmandu by
the tenets of Buddhist philosophy.
Producer Paulo Brunato attempts todel ve
Starting the
climb at
MSLin
Everest:
Sea to
Summit.

hitting Call of the Bhagirathi, about the


strugglebetweenthegovernmentandthe
people of Garhwal over the construction
of the dam atTehri. Everest: Sea to Summit,
an Australian entry on the extraordinary
conquering of Mount Everest by Tim
McCartney-Snape, who started his climb
at sea level from the Bay of Bengal, drew
a mixed response. There were those who
complained that it was an egoistical piece
of film and that it typically underplayed,
even ignored, the vital role played by
Nepali Sherpas in the extraordinary
endeavour. Others, including this writer,
reacted to it as a film which was executed
superbly — it had narrative drive and
packed a considerable dramatic wallop.
To put it succinctly, the Australian
film was watchable. And watchability,
surely, is a quality that every filmmaker
must attempt to invest his film with. For
regardless of what subject a film may
concern itself with, Himalayan or non-
Himalayan, it must interest rather inhibit
the viewer. ^
S, Verma is Delhi-based film critic tor the business
India magazine.

AVAiUKplE AT HIMAL

AY CM C AU
14 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1993
Delinquent Documentary
The camera cheats on the Himalaya because the filmmaker gets away with it.
Documentaries will become more truthful as the locals get to critique them.

O
This autumn
on the
Discovery
Channel,
when you
watch a
documentary
on Mustang
that features
this lynx, be
forewarned
that you are
being taken
for a ride.
n 22 July 1993, in the village of Ghemi Not one to miss the chance of
in Upper Mustang, crew members of a incorporating this elusive, endangered
company named Intrepid Films was animal into his film, Miller swung into
by Kanak Mani Dixit
shooting a documentary for the US- action. He got permission from the been found in the hillsides of Ghemi. With
based Discovery Channel. Thefilm was handler, a worker from the Annapurna Miller prompting him from behind the
tobe on theculturat and natural wonders of Conservation Area Project (ACAP), to camera, the Rinpoche takes the lynx ("Ikh"
Mustang, the principality that was expose some footage. A yarn was to Loba) into his arms and sighs,
opened to tourists in early 1992. Tony concocted within minutes and approximately in these words, "Ah, these
Miller, the director, — who also held the incorporated into the script. animals used to be abundant around these
camera — was on the lookout for As the evening enfolded, the lynx parts. Now they are no more."
anything that would make his film stand sequence was acted out under the arc The baby lynx is willing to play its
out. lights and reflectors. An assistant lama part, and as if on cue begins to frolic with
To provide a storyline for his goes up to Rinpoche Khamtrul, the lama's rosary, making snatches at it
narrative, Miller had brought along produces the animal, and announces that with its padded paws. No director could
Rinpoche Khamtrul, a lama from it has just wish for better footage, and Miller is
Dharamsala whom he had met in ecstatic.
Kathmandu. The camera would follow
the Rinpoche's travel together with two Faking It
assistant monks up to the walled enclave Unless it is a docudrama or carries an
of Lo Manthang, the capital of Upper appropriate disclaimer, a documentary is
Mustang. not supposed to fictionalise. Additionally,
It was late evening. At the house- even when he is not presenting fiction,
cum-hotel of Raju Bista, Ghemi's there is a burden on the documentarist
aristocrat, Miller was filming one of the that his camera be as candid as possible-
monks brushing his teeth. From behind Due to the moving picture's power of
the camera, Miller was asking questions manipulation — much more than still
relating to local hygiene and the pictures or print media — the
omnipresence of lice in Mustang. The cinematographer has a larger responsi-
young lama was providing earnest bility to respect authenticity. Theaudience
answers to the questions. accepts documentary films on faith.
It so happened that a baby lynx That, of course, is the theory of it. All
{Lynx lynx) had been found by the film enthusiasts know that cent-percent
residents of Lo Manthang and was being candid ness, whileit might be within reach
transported down to the national zoo in
Kathmandu. The animal, too, was
spending the night under Bista's roof,
together with its handler.
in still photography, is practically and editing as well, there are numerous filmmaker loses credibility.
impossible in cinematography except opportunities for sleight of hand. Thus, the vi e wer' s po tential rej ecti on
when you have a hidden camera, which For the very reason that it is so is the built-in safeguard which keeps the
has its own problem with ethics. Because necessary to set up scenes, it is important filmmaker on line. But when the subject of
of the nature of the visual medium and for the documentarist to know and respect thefilm is a remote pocket in the Himalaya,
due to demands of equipment and large the limits and not to play too fast and both the target audience (in the West) and
crews, documentary filmmakers loose with the facts he claims to present. critics are at the mercy of the director or
invariably find it necessary to stage Under normal circumstances, these limits producer.
sequences — one cannot just point-and- are defined by the critics' and the
shoot a documentary. Besides audience's knowledge of the subject and Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 15
camerawork, in the process of scripting of filmmaking. If he is not careful, the
The temptation to takeshort cutsand Sky Burial Lo Manthang, when theNHK camera
to stage sequences beyond the bounds of Mustang seems to attract documentarists finally arrives, is dolled up to look like a
propriety are in place for film companies who exel at faking it, even though this is garrison town under seige by Khampa
that arrive in the Himalayan region. The one region that does not need to be made marauders. For a settlement where the
Western audience is taken on a celluloid to look more romantic than it already is. Rongba (midhill) police know to keep a
ride — often willingly, it seems. The Jast two years has seen Mustang low profile, there are policemen standing
attracting more than its fair share of guard on every rooftop, bolt-action rifles
Lynx Sequence filmmakers. In fact, Rajasaheb Jigme on the ready. Sleepy and docile Lo
There were several problems evident in ParbalBistahashadhishandsfuIldealing Manthang is presented as a Dangerous
Tony Miller's approach to filmmaking, at with emerging class conflict, much of it Place, one from which the NHK team
least at Ghemi. If his film were to be sowed by free-spending, insensitive film emerged alive to tell the tala
certified a genuine 'documentary', crews, including Intrepid's.
Rinpoche Khamtrul should already have A team from the Japanese television Cinematic Quacks
been on a trip to Lo Manthang when the station NHK managed to be the first to More than one documentary shown at
film crew stumbles upon him. If not, then film Mustang when it was opened. Their Film Himalaya 1994 engaged in sleight of
at the very least the lama should have production, while containing some good hand, secure in the knowledge that the
made an earlier trip to Lo Manthang, in camerawork, generates snorts of disbeli ef Western audience for whom these films
which case at worst the director could be among Loba who have seen video copies. are made would not notice. Otherwise,
accused of re-enactment. Instead, Miller It is a subject of much derision among the why should good old Samaritan Dr.
has simply gone and chartered himself a patrons who gather for chhang and tea at Ebehard Brunier, a dentist from the
rinpoche. the popular bhatti of the "Hema Malini" of German town of Mainz, come to Mustang
Now, when Miller completes editing Lo Manthang. to pull out teeth? The answer is simple: he
the film, the only ethical way out for him The NHK director's interest is to did it for the television camera. Dr.
istoindudeanoticestatingthattheRinpo- heighten the sense of drama. He is out to Brunier's narration in The Dentist from
che's trip was staged, but that the rest of out-Piessel the adventurer-author Michel Mainz is child-like, and the public health
Mustang—thegumbas,thepotato fields, Piessel (the writer of the original mass- aspects of his exercise questionable. For
the Kali Candaki canyons — are for real. market book on Mustang). The film begins someone out to do good, Herr Doktor
Not only does Miller bring along by implying that th e crew is driving almost seems to travel without a dentist's drill,
Rinpoche Khamtrul to Mustang, he has all the way up to roadless Mustang in two which reduces him to pulling out more
the venerable lama mouth untruths. properly Japanese four-wheel-drives. It teeth than he probably should have.
Apparently, Rinpoche Khamtrul had not then hypes up a helicopter rescue of a The problem of candidness, again, is
visited Mustang before this. A refugee team member who gets altitude sickness what looms large in a film like Dentist,
from Kham living in Dharamsala, he could at an embarassingly low altitude. which utilises the Himalayan backdrop
not be an expert on the status of Upper As the camera progresses northward, merely as a prop for a self-aggrandizing
Mustang's wildlife. Neither theRinpoche the routine police check of trekking exercise. Every time we see Dr. Brunier
nor his prompter, Miller, are in a position permits is presented with ominous music walking alone through the hills of Nepal,
to know whether the lynx as a species is and tense dose-ups. A palpable sense of tousling children's hair and distributing
abundant or scarce in the vicinity of relief is conveyed when thehawaldar flips plastic mouth-rinse cups, we know that
Ghemi. The valley upriver is a high through the permit and sternly waves the behind the camera are arrayed the
sanctuary which could well support a team along. The impression is that the cameraman, producer,director (Hermann
substantial population of lynx. The first Japanese film crew might otherwise have Feicht), soundman, gofer, sirdar, porters,
wildlife inventory of Upper Mustang was been thrown into a dungeon holding a yaks and donkeys. The viewer, however,
being conducted by an ACAP team injuly hungry Tibetan mastiff, or given sky is likely to believe that this is the story of
even as Miller was filming. burial. a lone dentist and his trusty donkey

n
Ga er

lah ge

ad, s

Br in

ia T

n hi

Bl m

ess ph

ed u.

ent 1*

ers .

Pa HI

ro M

Dz A

on L

g. M

me ar/

ets A

the pr

Da 19

lai 93

La

ma

an

em
Does the doktor from
Mainz travel alone in
Mustang?
proportionally with
heading up to Mustang to do good. thedistancebetween
Another pitfall of ego-driven films: you the audience and the
stage more scenes to create proper subject peoples.
atmosphere, almost as if you were Meanwhile, if it is
shooting a feature film. the responsibility
At the end of Dentist, the German
public television company ZDF
announces that it is providing U$ 10,000
for a clinic which Dr. Brunier is going to
establish in Lo Manthang, as promised to
the Rajasaheb. That was more than a year
ago. Apparently, no Loba has heard from
Dr. Brunier in the interim. In addition,
Nepal's Minister for Tourism and Civil presence on the screen, incidentally, is ofthefilmcritictokeepcinematographers
Aviation Ram Hari Joshy is said to have also used by other opportunistic makers on the straight and narrow, i t fails to work
waived Mustang's hefty entry fee for Dr. of documentaries. when it comes to Himalayan films, which
Brunier on the promise that he would pay In Search of the Buddha, by director are aired primarily on Western networks
NRs 50,000 towards a school building in Paulo Brunato, is insufferable enough for and public television. Since the critics do
Lo Manthang. The money has yet to be the Buddhist discourse by Hollywood not have the background to comment on
collected. actors. There are reports that this film, the content of films on complicated Third
Meanwhile, there is much hilarity in which speaks of the loftiest of principles, World topics and locales, their critiques
Hema Malini'sbhatti as the patrons recall was not above deceit. At one point, the rarely go beyond the superficial. Like the
the dentist who set up a stool by the town camera visits a Western ascetic meditating general audience, the film reviewers, too,
gates and pulled out the wrong tooth of outside his flood-lit cave entrance tend to get carried away by the grandeur
so-and-so. Butit is the dentist fromMainz somewhere in the hills of Kathmandu of mountain vistas and the romance of
who had the last laugh. Valley. Word has it that the 'cave' was Himalayan communities as presented by
actually a hole dug for the purpose of directors.
False Galahad filming. There are said to be other made- Even the most respected specialised
Galahad of Everest, a film that has garnered up sequences as well in Buddha. forum of the Margaret Mead Film Festival,
much praise in mountain film festivals whose focusis on anthropological works,
elsewhere, must be seen for its misplaced Hit-and-Run often showcases poorly made films on the
hubris and cinematic arrogance. British Numerous documentaries in different Himalaya, to much applause. The dis-
actor Brian Blessed tries to recreate George genres screened at the festival stayed cerning local audience would hoot down
Leigh Mallory's 1924 trip to within the ethical limits while presenting many of the films that receive wide-eyed
Chomolongma's North Face. In addition fine stories and visuals. It is the filmmakers appreciation at Western film festivals.
to numerous staged sequences, the film who are careful of the ethnological The camera cheats on the Himalaya
has several faked ones as well. perspective that tended to produce the because, thus far, the filmmaker has been
As Mallory, Blessed is supposed to most sensitive and illuminating films. able to get away with it. One way to
be heading north into Tibet from Conversely, the most dishonest promote documentaries that stay closer
Darjeeling. Instead, he pops up in the documentaries were by producers and to actuality is to ensure that more subject
vicinity of Bhutan's Takstang Monastery. directors affiliated to television channels, audiences get to view them — in films
Next, Blessed crosses over the photogenic whether public or private. These hit-and- festivals, national television, and via cable
bridge at Paro Dzong, and — as the film run documentarists have little emotional and satellite—and to react. Next, it is for
editor would have it — drops in on the attachment for their subject, and their the locals to develop the capability to
Dalai Lama. Once his meeting with Dalai treatment suffers. There is no produce documentary films for the
Lama is over (most likely 600 miles over embarrassment to taking short cuts if you Himalayan audience. The third step is for
to the west in Dharamsala), Blessed is know that after Mustang your next local filmmakers to acquire the sophi-
again out on a Thimphu street, bantering assignment is the Shetland Islands. stication necessary to present their region
with a provision store owner. So, why does the filmmaker cheat? on film to the Western mass audience.
The chutzpa with which Blessed The answer mightbe that they donot care But at that point, might we find that
carries out this deception would be enough for the locals and their local filmmakersarejustasproneto taking
comical, if the sequence did not make sensitivities; the target audience is in the short cuts?
clear how little he cares for facts and West (or in Japan) and does not know
sensibilities. The scene of the Dalai Lama enough to catch the filmmaker out; the Mar/Apr
comfortably ensconced in Paro Dzortg, subject community does not get a chance
for all the unease that exists between the to see the film and Teact 'effectively.
Tibetan government-in-exile and the The temptation to fake increases
Thimphu regime, has implications which
Blessed is bothered with. For him, the
Dalai Lama is a prop, whose amenable
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criticised :for its hype
Ibiirtsm
Brother Another Resource
Flanet j
questionable science by some If Nepal's tourism authorities-
scientists, but has received
"'.grudging-praise from some
others,, The firist group to spend
educationist and one-time ever are given to worrying feat
president of Tibetan- Youth .; the ■■:■ ■. country's tourism time in Biosphere 2 emerged
Congress Tashi Tserirtgya industry may downslide, they from a 2 year Stay last autumn^
scholarat the Library of " can relax. HirMlayan tour: thinner but [ wiser. While
Tibetan Works and Archives; operators and hoteliers cari scientific : advances were
and PeiriaBhum, formerly ■■:■■ * malte longtenn investrhehts made,''the getf-sustalning nature
associate professor 6fT.ib^tSn: saffe in;tHe knowledge that..... . of the hermetically sealed
literature at the ^forth-West I the tourism iap will heft furi station W|LS compromised -when
Institute for ldfc%anyftrfiesoon, ;v v the air recycling system failed to
Lanchau, China-According to: Accoiding to recgrit „ cope. Oxygen had to be
Onevt the anomalies of the organisers, 1 the very, research; love for nature is : pytnped inafter the carbon
Tibetan culture-in-exile is success of exiled Tibetans in ■ encoded into the genes of dioxide levels reached
that while hundreds of preserving their culture and humans. And as we all know, dangerous levels.
Tibetan works have been religion, coupled with theit : ipvejOf nature translates1 into;:
translated into foreign traditional conservatism; has love^of" theHimalayan ^connection with nature.
languages, only the Bible has resulted in "a dosiftg-in of mountains, which;is what Studies of aesthetic-
been translated into Tibetan. thenational mind from 1 .., I pulls in hundreds of
To salvage the situation further investigatior*> : - j thousands of itoijriste here suggest that people i
and enliven Tibetan -discussion or rftdvement ° every year......... ■.- different cultures prefer
intellectual life, towardsculturataiid A fte\y: bpokj The Bioyhilia
fourscholar/ intellectual changes Hypothesis (Island Press, . enclosed, pnes,: writes Rog^r S;
activists have necessary to making"lit 1993) present?; convincing Ulrich> an environmental
begun the institutions andldeasviable papers which speak of the psychologist. "Studies-also
•Amnye Machen Institute — in a rapidly changing:" I "special link between the ■ suggest that people in many
also known as the Tibetan world." TheTnstitute wjllvtry;: human brain arid* tKejiatufal; parts of the wprld^ clearly
Centre for Advanced Studies to manitain contact with the wprld: As' co^editorEdward favournatural landscapes over
— to begin systematic study literary and .. .. ... .;.. O> Wilson, an evolutionary ; urban vi.§tafs that lack natural
of the Tibetan history; culture, intellectual developments; : biologistjtoldiTTieNepj Yprlc content."
society and politics. : The within Tibet. Times recently, "the brain ' Adds Uirich, "Perhaps
organisers of this The Dalai Lama*, who is evolved in a biocentric world, modem humans, as^ a partly I
Dharamsala-based Institute supportive of Atnnye: i--i not a machine-reguiated ' genetic remnant of evolution,*,
say that it will ^tachen, says h^ hdpes-its World", and knowledge, tend to have more positive
promote-"iiberal and efforts will help bring about a mental skills, inspiration, the -emotional states arid
humanist" values in seeking 'Tibetan renaissance". exploratory urge, verbal accordingly are 'smarted in
to raise the Cultural expression arid appreciation creative-thinking when
international team scientists
self^awareness of the of beauty and harmony, 3U, , exposed to most unthreatening
will live ihside;their enclosed,
Tibetans, "especially those owe something to the human natural settings." So here's
self-sustaining-"' ecosystem for
.inside Tibet". another' ■ plug for tine
a year."
The initiator of Amnye Ministry of Tourism's new ad
The outcome of the*
Machen is Jamyang Norbu, campaign: yjGreativiry
imagination of Richard1 Bass
playwright and novelist well enhanced in : Himalayan setting.
(of the old Texas^ojl money,
"known for his critiques of Cpriie ■ write a novel or
who also has a stake in the
intellectual life in exile. programme software in
out^of-the-way: Hote} Vajra of
Norbu/ the controversial Jomoson."
Kathmandu), Biosphere 2 is a
former director of the Tibetan Is there a chance that love1
glass, and concrete struchire
Institute of Performing Arts, for nature will dissipate
which has been severely
is joined by Lhasang Tsering, sometime soon as humans
genes adapt to urban
Tilak Mahato is a Tharu from conditions? No fear, says
Chitwan. He is now, Wilson. "Even under
essentially, in another planet. controlled laboratory
On 6 March, the 31-year-old conditions it would take more
Nepali naturalist and five than a million years tp *
others were sealed inside
Biosphere 2, the controversial Mar/Apr 1934 H1MAL * 19
structure in the Arizona

desert which simulates a self-
contained space colony
supposed to be a precursor to
one. The
Himalayan Cyberspace asa joy. And they
they-are, Pakistan's SCP's-
bulletin, bo^rd,periodically
communicated with such ■■■ reaches for meltdown with
Theinformatfph highway rib gusto that R0NAST% debate on Kashmir, The *
w runs through th^' computers were members of the Chinese
get an adaptation that favou- Himalaya. .overwhelmed. Says Suresh newsgroup'; however, s.eenr-
red attachment to the artificial In Kathmandu recently, Man Singh, who ] oversee^ the most'undemocratic. They*
over the nature. So, we're the Royal Nepal Acadeiriy ol theagency'se*mail lines, engage in persecuting those
stuck with what we've got." Science and-Technology "Since December, we haye: who want to start SGT—
So the longterm prognosis {RONAST) arid ivtercMile ■ been ihtmdated with e-mail society, cultu-tatibet — and s
is clear: the tourists will keep Office Systems, a private messages and requiests erase arty message on Tibet
corning, as long as the firm, each obtained a riodfe 6f fromstudents all-over." that makes ite way ihtb the
Himalaya is maintained irt a Ernet from New pelrCs Among tlied^ta network.
dean enough state that it still Department pf ;Eiecrronies; RONAST^scomputers- :
reflects the attributes of What this-means is that any disgorged were miiltiple
nature. If tourism profits Nepali with a computer,: copies of The Nepal Digest:
come encoded in human telephone line and CTND'I, an e-mail newsletter
■M2W modern can thatisused by Nepali users; ^
how .. '. J\^, twoyearSagoiri
:
interact .■ ■■ ■
electronically >vith free by some 400
the world. Nepali students and scholars
ForNepali .... . m: theWest, T^fP hasserved
students overseas, '£&"$ platform for debatei on
who have been ] political; development and The Tibetan e-irtailers,
enjoying the... . social issues with the wires however, need not feel i
benefits of carrying hot debates on the negl'ected"mvich longer, Sihee
wallowing in state of Nepali democracy, last November, despite
'cyberspace', this ethnic assertion, and ^^-most unreliable phone
genes, (he only worry should new opening came recently— the ArUn ill hydf connections, the exile
be how to ensure maxitrtum opoWet project. Now, this and Government in Dliaranisata
equity and sustainable yield many other services are has been hooked upon e-
of this generic resource. available to acadetnicssm mail, At4heimtiarive of Tibet
Nepal as well. (To access support groups In North l
TND> send e-niaii to: : Arrierica, Dharamsala has let
Department of History, Ku(n- nepal@ips j) iuvedut) up the Tibetan Computer
Upcoming... 9-10 April 1994.
For those interested
exclusively in Nepal, there is
-Resource Centre (TCRC) to
oversee-the e-mail project.
Topics:; also another Internet
South Asia Bulletin The State of the Himalayan (Dharamsala's e-mail address:
Vol. 13 (1993) newsgroup, with e>mail tcrc®urtv,erneWni)
resources: forests, agriculture, address soeiety.culture.nepal
Special Issue on Nepal water and wildlife The Meanwhile, Mercantile*
Guest Editor, Nan da R. Shrestha (SCN), U(hicn functions as a Office Systems of
Natural Wealth of the computer bulletin board
Stacy Leigh Fvgg: Himalaya: history, colonial era Kathmaridu, which is
The Ideological Impact of and the present The where anyoht; can post presently the only private
Development in Nepal Environment and Political and anything. SCN served an sector group that provides
Jeffrey Riedingen Pros pects for Economic Institutions The importaht'furiction fest Himalayan -e-mailing, has
Land Reform in Nepal Environment and People's summer when it carried, ttie tested its system and is
Mary des Chens: Gurkhas as Movements up^to-date inforcnatUjn of the hapdirig out user account^
Diplomatic Currency Local and International Aware- floods that ravaged central Says the firm's Director,
Barbara Parker and Douglas ness: From Chipkb to Himalaya Nepal.: Sanjeev Rajtoandari^ "For the
Peterson: The Sexual Division Bachao,f rom Stock-holm to India, Pakistan and £hma> moment^we are providing the
and Labor and Habitus among Rio. too, have their own Internet e-mail service free so that
Nepal's Marpha Thakali newsgroups. While India's" people can get introduced to
Naomi H. Bishop: Circular There will be a Tibet TrmleTiiif
in Kathmandu 24-30 April 1994, SCI is usuatty'domihated by this whole new concept of
Migration and Families: A JIT graduates studying or
Yolmo Sherpa Example jointly organised by Nepal's communications. We have not
Trade Prdmoli oh Cen tre and the working in the UmtSd States, yet decided how we are going
RR, Shrestha: A Self-Reflective who, never seem to tire of
Perspective on Nepalese Elites Trade Promotion Commission to charge for usage." -,
of Tibet The plan is to promote telling others how brillaint If, as Rajbhandari hopes,
and Development
David N. Zurick: Spatial traditional and new Nepali e-mail catches on here, what
Development Frameworks and products tot the Tibet market would such ease of
Rural Transformation in Nepal and for Nepal to impart
essential goods from Tibet.
Himalayan Environment:
Scenario and Awareness
National Seminar at the
20 HIMAf. . Mar/Apr 1994
Gajey Gh^iey and 108-year old GorkMli heroes on Nepali ;
DhaneyTbapaMagar(vpperright). soil. Prime Minister Cirija
Prasad Koiralahimself chose
to-be present anditohono'ulr '] The Nepali firms are the
Ghaleyand th&otherVCs -i '... Butwal Power Cdrnpany and
and jPVCs; Others who joined1 its affiliate Himal Power ;; ;..
the ceremony in-cliiided Ggnju Limited,and they^afe;; .. ■■:■ .■■■■ ■■
Laixia, Tul Bahadur collaborating with the
Pun : ,Magar, Agarpsjingh Norwegian national power
iiai, Bhanubhakta Gurung company, Statferaft, whichis;
and; Lachhuman Gurung. being allowed for the first time
Also by'Oslo to invest outside
Norway;
;;At pnemomerit, ., ■,-,=■ ■■■■
accoitling to $ources> the deal
almo|t;fell through when
Statkraft officials^ exasperated
by the slow pace' of;
riegb;tiat4oTiS:> eonsidered "1 „■■ ;■

A lmost without anyone


notidng;it, the Nepali '"■
Governffietit and a private ■;■'
investing in Laos and
Vietnarninsteadi Arid Nepali^
^engineers and firms came;;;;
Tsector concernin early March very Hose to losing1 access to
communications arid transfer signed a landmark agreement; TSfprwegian; technology in
of ideas mean for that heralds the way-ahead for hydropower, considered of
developments in the region? Himalayan power sector' the best in the world and
Since e-mail renders the development . " .... ...... , suitablefor Moptionin the
barriers of time arid space Indeed;., if it had-not-been 1 fof ' Himalayan region;
obsolete, would it lead to thecontroversy raging : i Suddenly,
greater awareness of diversity hydrOpowerproje^; anyone in the weeks
among Himalayan . peoples would have sat up arid taken of February *J
and better understanding °fme notice as the project I .■■■.■ ::
Nepali;side,brushed upite
myriad challenges they face? .'.. document; was signed for the:
Or will Himalayan e-mail, ■ construction of a 60;; ;.. .... - ■■
like is happening in the West, megawatt "pp#er station on; ; present at thecer^rrtohy was :
peg individuals into the Khimti Khola,^tributary 108-year^pld: Dhaney Tliapa
narrowly-based newsgroups oi? the Tafria Kosi river in ^ait :
Magar of the 1/8 Gurkha
which makes them more Nepal. At U$120 million, the : Kfles, who fought-in the First;
parochial and blinkered. Khimti Project isessity the Wo]rlp Warjn Southern '..
- Ashuiosh Tiwari largest investment inNepal's "France.-. - ■ ■; " \ '.. .
:
private sectortod&y, jfts : Atah oc^asignwhich was
significance also lies in the ;,.. pregnant with meaning for so
Gorkhali fact that this is the largest.,
joint venture project between
m^ny |ihnic:groups:of Nepal,
the sociopolitical aspects of

Honours mternarional companies and a


Nepali firm. - - -■v;; " 7 :; Z
Gurkhajrecruitment —-of;;.;;:

N
epaliswell past their middle
Gajey Ghaley is therefore:
firmly part of theMepaH ; !.'!.
age still remember what their pant$eon. Imagine ^ie shock
childhood primer told them l to most, therefore, to find that
of Gajey Ghaley the brave.' this man of myt^i is,. ■ alive, a
Paras Mani Pradhan's; swarthy 78;year-old who
writings took; them to the visited Kathmaridii; from his,
Burma front, where this home in AtiriOjra and laid
village boy from Barpak; claim to his; ; , - : love for
Gorkha, single-handedly his motherland* :
overcame a Japanese bunker. Together with a Param Vir
For his feat/Ghaleyof the 5th Ghakra; holder and 6 mother
Gurkha Rif leS'Teceiyed the I Victoria Cress headers,
Victoria Cross, and vicarious Ghaley had cOrtje to .«....o
glory which Nepalis have Kathmajndu for the firsWyer ;
long'cherished. arlzen'& reception given to
fighHng other countrys! wars^ act. The Ministry of Water*
the origbing^retrenchment qf Resources pulled out:ail the
Bntisn Gurkhas* of possible ■:■■■ stops and bureaucrats worked
closure of Indian Gorkha late into thenightttJ agree' on
::
recruitment in Nepal; — were the terms of the * ... agreement
not addressed.:T|teiocus: was The National ' Planning
ort celebrating the fact that: Commission arid the higher
^epai's Gorkhaii legacy had •■■ echelons;of the Ministry
offidal recognition and was' pushed hard to overcome
nolbhger'beingtreated like resistance to the : deal from
an unsavoury secret; Rather some in the Water arid finergy
Vthan discourses an geopolitics Comlrtisslpn " Secretariat, the
and'sociology, tHerefore/one Electricity Developm.ent
heard of ■patience, fortitude, Gettter,and tlie Nepal-
loyalty, Electricity Authority,
■ courage,and, of course, the- With its go-ahead from
the'Government thii Himal
Ppwer Limited will rjow be *
able to conclude financing
agreements with the Asian
Development Bank and the;
International Finance Corpa- :
ration.This is also the first *
:
hydropower! scheme to, be
financed in the private^sector by
thes^ multilateral banks'^ "
; So, after a long htetiis,,
is agreement on^a major*
p project in Nepal, :
;
whether anyoaehasheardf, of it
or not.
spldier's duty of being true to
qne'ssalt.
Among other things, the ""
organisers announced the
setting ups of a Gprkha
Memorj^i Thrust "in order Jtp
keep alive the gloripus history
of the brave Gorkha"1*,

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL


importance has also
Northern Forests on the Way Out received a boost
trans-Himalayan demand in from theliidian
timber is explained by the trade pffthe Shipki
rise in economic activity in La, above
In (he 1960s and 1970s, Nepal's Tibet, related to ;economic ,.-. Pithpragarh.
Tarai jungles were decimated liberaUsatipjvd emandsvfdr What this means
when timber was carted south tourism and pilgrim is that there is frenetic
of the border to maintain the infrastructure, and the building in ..'■':■■
Indian nation's-demand for opening of high passes for Burang, which is
railway ties. In the 1990s, it is trade with India. being supplied by
the turn of the thin northern Burang,,f or example/has tirnber from as far as
woodlands to make an exit, to become a boomtown. three days' walk
feed Tibet's economic boom. Situated fust north of where down in Huinla
The last couple of years has Tibet, IndKand Nepal's; The sound of axe on
northwest meet, the town is a pipe; nevefleaves the trekker Hurnla, there is open and
seen devastation among the
staging point for tourists and walking up from Sirriikot, unrestricted haulage
precious, slow-growing high
with the Hiiriite villagers' wherever there are forests oat
Himalayan forests of Hiraila^: pilgrims bound for Ka|las
and Martasarovar. It is also " hacking wood, sizing planks, Nepal's side — in Mugu,
Gorkha, Sarikhuasabha and
an important pointoh the : 1 Larkye^ Sankhuasabha.and :
other districts. It is an
Lhasa to Aksai Chin and yak-back up to Burang. Walaiigchung.
ecological Crisis that falls
TDne firewood depnartd north The slow regrowth of
squarely in the blind spot of the ■highway./and serves,as arv
increasingly vital economic of the borderis supplied: in once-fine Himalayan
national authorities, district
center for this part of Tibet. ■ woodlands-is obvious when
officials and 'environmental'
Burang^s economic the trees-and bushes are on^ studies the excruciatingly
activists and journalists.
yanked out of the ground, tardyrecovery of the
&. This sudden rise in the Humla villager carries
planks upto>!the * Mustangiorests that vyere"
deciiiiated by the Khampa-
Wealth of Study border to a waiting
-«| Tibetan truck
3 (upper right).
Most of th&clearTfelling jn
Hiimla is concentrated in : 1^ rebel camps in the, mid-1970s.
Even today, all that is there to
ermi, Much u and Yari village
W
e can soon expect a mass of
samitis. And the district
officials who are supposed to
see in the hill flanks of
Samar, for example, are acres
of tree stumps. That pathetic
scholarly work on the Indian of gaon panchayat level be preventing this ecological
abuse are all down at view alone should be " warni
Northeast because of the samitis, a case study of ng, for poli tipans and civil
initiative taken by the Rajiv Sonitpur district. Pranab K, Sitrukot.
Unfortunately, this ,,'. servants to take yp the
Bhattacharya: challenge of halting the
Performance of self- outflow of Himalayan wood
is continuing across most of present crisis.
employment for It is imperative to save :
educated Nepal's fron tier passes. As in
Nepal's w<jodland, even
unemployed in where nature preserves -have-
Assam, with KQt been s,et up and where no
reference to Kamrup Independence. tourists visit.
district. Atrima
Bhagabati: 4t « Padam
Occupational agro-based industries in the
mobility among the rural economy-
plains Garo of Arup Bharali^ Changed la nd- Khowai block of West
Gandhi Foundation in usepartern'irt Borbhagaf ea Tripura.
awarding 18 fellowships on Maniknagar village of
Kamrup. of Nalbari. N, GokurChandra:
study of development issues in Mahaskanta Bora: Impact of Incidence of aids andi its
the region. Here is a list of the Kakali Bora: Impact of T.V on school-gding females. .social implications in
"Rajiv Gandhi Scholars" and television in rural Assam,
Gopal C Bpro: Industrial -Manipur.
the research they will be doing: case study of Kamrup: development and its impact Tbrigkholum Haokip:
Kanta Chakravarty: Study of DebendraK. Bezbaruah:
Socioeconomic change in the southern periphery of .Development of .poliycal
nutrition, fertility and Guwahati. .; : consciousness among the
mortality among the Ahom, among scheduled castes in
Nalbari district since Swapan Chandra Pal: Victims Kukis of Manipur.
Karabi Duara: Fertility and of development — tlte Imti Temsu: Problems of
infant mortality among the buistees of the Maharahi linguistic di versity in
Mishing of Majuli, Prasanta K. Nagaland.
Das: Public distribution system Srbari Das Gupta: Khasi
BhushapC. Das:
arid role Occupational mobility and women in the petty trade of
the growth of business in Shillpng.
Manosh Kumar P.R;
Changes in the grassroots
level among the Nislu of
Arunachal.
22 HIMAL . Mar/Apr 1994
IThe Original Irekker Kanpapa 17, the: 10-yeat o\d
Ranjung Regbai Eferjee. A
and the In-fligjit
impoche WrangleConnoisseur
alt Runitek rival ehthrjonejnerlt ;was
subsequently held in Delhi,
where stones .fl§w and glass
shattered.
■■ ReincarnatibTJ is an .■....Z
exercise in faith — one that
goes to the c6r^ of being a7 Z
Himalayan Buddhsst. TTie
Rumtek wrangle severely ..
tests" the faith pitne^believers,
not the least because it ptits
faction against faction. ■ ..
Kham-aSthereineamatM Z vv ; :
Questions to be answered: Jfm Delhi Karmapa,
Karmapa 1Z, His arch-rival, ., what does the episode say of
the foil owing i s, in vol ved and-
lKairiarRimpoche would ; thelSalai Lama's hold over the
shares blame for this deviasr-
have norse pf ft; whieh led tO: Urger TiBe| flock? Has its .
tating intrigue at Rumtek?
.several incidentsatRumtek Success among Western;
...Bfeij&sgj the Chief Minister*
IfJKathmandu's including one in which an; Z adherents actually weakened
of Sijckim, South Block, the •'■
cognoscenti thinks that the I; Indian Army contingent tHfeKagyu onhome gtourtd?
Drukpa,Diirbar, Taipei.. .. * '
feud of tfie Nepali actuaUy entered the ....... .,,. v;; ; Will reincarrt^tioit polities ± Z
shpg'uns, the Daiai Lama, the
Congress Party's Big Three ; monastery. Z '■ ■■■■■■ ' .,. ^fgvbur more within-Tibet :
Western adherents. And do
is the mother of all; fights, " incarnah'tjris in future, br can
ihelay Tibetans, those within
they should observe ... the Moping to defuse the one expect more blprtd e-h ai
and: withput Tibet, have any'
all-out mter-rimpoche situation with his -.-.,., ZZ ;; redr bl u e-ey ed rancantiates?
say in allthis?
slanging match in progress imprimatur, the Dalai.-LaroaZ Who among
over at Rumtek in Sikkjm. Z "announced: his backing for
,Tai.Sitii's find/lJgen^T^inley, in the Hindu pantheoh, as
If you have missed the
latest instalment of this ■■■ and. .thebpywasritually
ZWhile Hagen looks up at the the sea of Tethys., Bhagat also'"
progressively confusing . Z enthroned at the Kagyu
mountains, Dubby Bhagat's recalls the Himal^yans; he has
monastic tangle, here is a sect's original seat in Tsurpu,
Peak Hour: A Handbook of the krtown, particularly his friend
synopsis of an intrigue that near Lhasa. So understand
Everest flightpeers out of the Desmond Doig, lover and
is worthy of old Lhasa, the shock when Shamar (for ;
window of pressurised writer of the Himalaya, who
The 16th Karmapa died ";. "whom there hgd
aircraft Etes^rched and died in Kathmandu in 1983:
in the United States in generally been sympathy at
th'e butsei: of thecaniroversy) . photographed by Rik.A.Di '
1981, leaving four Sierpa, thi$ is the first book on the publishers Rtfpfl
rimpoches at Rumtek ■■.■■ ,, 7 announeed
ihSthS had :the Mbiintain Flighty a
. located the Publications announce^ that,
Monastery to handle Hitn&layan fixture that has for together wiith'Harper
affairs and more than 500 real incarnate
two decades taken off and ColliESipf London,-they will
enormously successful: Nepaljback inJthe 1950s; and landed m Kathmandu after " be coming put with Doig's My
Dharmachakra Centres mtrbdu,ced the : ::: ■■■■ country takihg dollar^payirig tourists' Kindvf Kathmandu, whose
worldwide. In time, one to the world arid to NepaliS sm a aerial four of the eastern sketches and manuscript have
Rimpoche, Tai Situ, tiiemselves. The78 year old Nepal Himalaya." All''of been recovered from storage
reported the discovery, of a Swiss geologistis noWiOiit Nepal's newairlineSj in in England.
boy from with his memoir, Building addition to venerable Royail If you-think Bhagat's book
Bridges to the ThM World, Nepal, today do motintain a delight,you will find Doig's
Books on Himalayan a celebration.
j^btished by Pilgrirrtsof - ■.■ flights. :■■■ : : Bhagat is a
topics emerge with such sedentary
1 ,. .; Kathmandu and
frequency that it is getting Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL^ % ^
priced M an unfa thomable
difficult to keep tab; Within
fi^s 2400, Hageh brings the '■ -prefers to watch the
one week in early March,- changing hues of: the
readerfrom 194$tp ih§ ;
Kathmaffdu saw the release jugalHimal from
present, prodding-
of two toines, by .authors : KathmaTtda.- Rattier lhari a
comnciehtary on Sepal's
Toni Hagen.and Dubby mountain-by-m dun tain
SifeS; process over four
Bhagafc
decades.:;:. '■' Forthecover of -di$cussiontrf mountain
Hagen is the Qriginal ■:
his-book;* Hagen-has insisted^ on technics! ities, hepresents
Trekker who walked tens delightful details of >
the ■■■■■ ■:■ photograph
of thousands of kilometres ineliyidual peaks, their
whichhas '. become his
in provenance^ Sherpa lore, role
signature—two : porters
walking gingerly up the
planks of a damaged ■:.
suspensionibrid^eat- :
T^toparii (Kali Gandaki
valley), withNiigiriHimal
as backdrop.
are always like this in July, what can we do? If s been like this
for years. If we're killed by a landslide, we're killed by a
landslide. What can you do if your time has come?"

A
"You were asking for death when you came here, and
now you're going to get it." The rain eased a little. The wife
made some tea in a mug. As the deluge lessened, they could
gain the wind began rattling the tin roof remorselessly. hear rainwater pouring down from the eaves. As he drank his
'Clang, clang, dang/ it went. They feared the whole roof tea, he asked, "What time do you think it is now?"
was going to blow away. Inside, in the dim light of a lamp "Oh, who knows? Eleven or twelve o' clock, perhaps."
flame, wavering in the draught, Kaley's mother and father Kaley's mother sighed.
looked up at the ceiling. The tin was blackened by wood smoke "Will it be alright now, do you think?"
and in many places they could see some drips like perspiration. "It'll have to be."
Someboughs, as black as the ceiling, prevented those eighty
or ninety sheets of tin from blowing off in the wind. He finished his tea and stood up. On his way to the door,
he kicked against a pot which was catching the drips from the
"How strong the wind is up on this hill! How hard it roof, and water splashed out everywhere.
blows!" said Kaley'smother,duringalull when thebangingof "Why don't you watch where you're going?" said his
the roof paused briefly, then she set about lighting a fire in wife, and spread out a sack. Saying nothing, he opened the
the hearth. door and listened out into the darkness. The Rungdung river
"It's never going to stop!" said Kaley's father, "It's been a was thundering fearsomely, making the hillsides tremble.
whole week now!" He had barely finished speaking when the From time to time, he thought he heard another kind of noise,
rain began to hammer down again. and he imagined the river washing up whole trees, and the
"When it rains like this I'm afraid of landslides. We were river waters becoming yellow with mud from the landslides.
fools to comeand live here!" The rain grewheavier, its noise on It was so dark, he could not see his own hand. He turned
the tin roof became deafening as a flame began to dance in the and called to his wife from outside in the dark. "A torch, bring
fireplace. They could no longer hear the sound of singledrops: a torch!" Kaley's mother pulled an old black torchlight out
a continuous roar filled the room. Now it would wash from under a pillow and brought it to him.
everything away, they would be pulled down by a landslide, "It's blown all the sheeting off the cowshed." Kaley's
sweeping down from above to bury them all.,.. father switched on the torch and went down below the house.
The eye-shaped light of the torch appeared on the soaked
It seemed as if the house was- sliding away and pulling them ground and the grass.
down with it. Kaley's father collected the pieces of sheeting that had
"Lord Mahakal! You are our SaviouT and Protector!" blown off, and climbed up onto the roof. He straightened the
The wind was making the flat wooden shelves bang tinsheetsand weighed them down withrocks. It wasdrizzling
against the wall. All the cupboards were saturated, inside and now.
out. The bed which always stood against the wall had been Kaley's mother dug a sharp mossy rock out of the ground
moved away toaspotwherenorainleaked down on to it. Kaley and passed it to her husband on the roof. He set it down on the
was asleep, holding onto his little sister. Toof and told her, "You go now, it's coming on heavy again. I'll
"It was you who insisted that I should build the house just feed the cow before I come in."
here!" The husband was suddenly angry. "Otherwise, we "Let's both go now," said his wife and waited for him.
were enjoying living in a proper building in the middle of "You feed it some grass, then, I'll just finish off here... Oh
town, working for the police. We didn't have to worry about — who'll hold the torch for me if you do —■ wait, wait, I've
storms or landslides there." nearly finished now."
The wife said nothing. Kaley's mother's face was streaming with water, and her
afeadur
^ Michael Hutt
He
snapped, "A
big landowner
you've
become!
You'll pay for
it, you know!"
"Go
away,
sleep
secure,"
said
Kaley's mother, "The rains
Original title Ratbhari Huri Chalyo.

From Rai's first collection, Bipana Katipaya, 1960. 24 . HIMAL

Mar/Apr 1994
headscarf was drenched as she waited. Kaley's father finished
and came down from the roof at last. They hurriedly fed the
cow and went back into the house. The rain grew louder again.
After they had changed their clothes, they looked ready to act
as beggars in a play. They blew up the fire and dried
themselves by it.

"Any tea?" he asked.


"Aren't you going to sleep now?" she asked in reply.
"You go and sleep. Just make some tea for me first."
Kaley's mother got out the black kettle and scooped a mugfull
of water into it.
"Fill it right up/' he told her, and she did.
Kaley's father was looking up at the roof. He got up, got
out a rope that had been bought to make a tether, and tied it to
a rafter. Then he looked around on the floor for somewhere to
fasten the other end, and saw the millstone.
"Bring me that."
"Why?"
"The wind is so strong!"
Kaley's mother could say nothing. She staggered across
with the mil Is toneuntil it was by his feet. Once he had tightened
the rope around the millstone, Kaley's father was rather more mists and the storm. Safe from fear under a basket inside
at ease. Kaley's mother sprinkled some tea dust into the kettle, the house, the big rooster flapped its wings and
then climbed into the loft to sleep. crowed/'Kukhuri—kaH"
"Kukhuri-i-i-i ka-a-a-a-a-a-a!!!
Kaley's father was alone, and deep in his own thoughts.
Only when thetea boiled outof the spout to fall frothily intothe In the morning, Kaley's father was draining the flood
fire was he startled out of his meditations. He was making his from theyard with his hoe, his head sheltered by a pieceof sack
tea when the wind came howling and something fell onto the cloth. He shouted to Kaley's mother as she set off to town with
roof with a clang. Was it merely the top of the alder tree, or was a churn of milk on her shoulder, "Some nails, some long nails.
it something else? He was filled with alarm. Don't forget to buy some, will you! I'll have to spend the whole
When it seemed more peaceful, and as if the storm was day hammering."
abating, he too went to his bed, without even blowing out the "If it rains a lot, let Kaley stay home from school today,"
lamp. The Tadish seeds he had sown will all have washed she called back as she went up the hill. In one place, a bank of
away, he thought— thebanks of the terraces will have collapsed, earth had collapsed and blocked the path. Today she met none
a lot of sayapatri trees would have fallen down. His first job in of the people she would normally meet on that path at this time
the morning would be to dig a drainage channel down from in the morning.
the bhimsenpati grove above the house... After about an hour and a half, she arrived at Moktan
Babu's door near the courthouse. Here they took half a seer. As
Had he been asleep for a while? He woke up: the wind and she poured out the milk, the pretty girl who was the mistress
the rain continued. It seemed as if the house was going to blow of the house showed her some kindness.
away, so hard was it shuddering. The storm roared in the "Come in and sit down for a minute. Have a cup of hot tea
nearby trees. before you go." She shuther umbrella, stood itinthedoorway,
He woke his wife. "If s a real storm now. What shall we and went inside.
do?" "What a storm that was," said Kaley's mother, "We didn't
Before she had had time to answer, there was a terrible sleep a wink all night!" "Us too!" said the mistress, "The wind
noise, and the ground shook. was rattling the windows all night. I didn't sleep at all. Whata
"Whaf s happened? Get up, get up!" wind that was!"
He took the torch and went to open the door. Kaley's "Oh, was that all?" joked Kaley's mother. Her face was
mother came too, and stood behind him. When they looked dark,her body was strong, she was nearly forty. "linearly blew
properly with the aid of the torch, they saw that the whole our house away! You're alrighthere, there's nofear of landslides.
slope had slid away like water. Just then, a mulberry tree It took our whole yard away, and now the house is going too!
slowly toppled over and fell down into the landslip. , I don't even have time to say 'it's raining7 - the cow can't be left
"Now what will you do?" she cried in terror. to go hungry, I have to run out and cut grass for it. If I don't
"Go and get the children up," he replied, raising his voice sleep at night, I don't get a chance to sleep in the day.
above the noise of the storm. When she had gone, he switched
Mar/Apr
off the torch, stood in the doorway, and looked...
Then it seemed to him that he could see a dim light of
hope. Dawn was beginning to break somewhere amid the
t
h
"Yes, it's true, we have it easy here," e
said the mistress, with genuine sympathy,
"Our roof did leak, though, and it ruined d
OUT clothes, books and everything. Now a
the power's shut off." y
"But when you look at our situation,
you'll see that that's no calamity. While I'm s
here, I get really distracted as soon as it h
starts raining again, worrying about e
what's happening at home. Yesterday that
wind broke all my maize plants, nothing d
was spared.... " i
Kaley's mother went off to deliver e
milk elsewhere. d
.
Now that they had suffered
this disaster, she felt they had
gained nothing from working the
land. They had been comfortable
in the town. At the end of each
month they received a salary and
wanted for little. The children
didn't have to go far to their
school, she didn't have to get
soaked when she went to draw
water, the streets were easy to walk
on, and there was no fear of
storms and landslides. Her head
had never ached before - since
they took up fanning, it ached all
the time.
She had
had no spare
time at all
since they
took on
thatland. She
was ashamed
of her hands,
cracked by
dust and
cowdung, and
of her fingers,
scarred from .
working with .
the scythe. W
Her whole a
body was s
ragged. They
couldn't s
goaway from h
the house e
even for a day:
to travel k
anywhere far i
away was an l
impossible l
dream. She'd i
just have to n
go on g
working hard
like this until h
e
rself with all this work just so that this-weather? You bring it. If s little Dipak's birthday."
she could eatandclotheherself? "I can't." Her voice was weary. She looked at the half-
And what did they eat, after all? caste woman: her clothes were so clean, her face so fair; how
What kind fine her hands were! Her husbands's alright, thought Kaley's
ofclothesdidtheywear?Shehad mother; the house is full of sofas and beds, her cupboards are
to conceal her food in case full of saris. She doesn't have to touch mud and soil or sweep
someone saw what mad e u p their up cowdung; she doesn't have to be afraid of the weather.
meals. Dressed like this, she felt "There's not enough milk. And if the weather's like this
ashamed of herseif in front of tomorrow 1 won't be coming."
other people. "And you expect us to drink our tea without milk all day?
A storm of angry thoughts raged through her mind. What are you talking about? Bring us the milk, whatever the
weather!"
She arrived at the house of the half-caste man who worked Kaley's mother went down the steps and out towards the
at the police station. She knocked on the window of the locked bazaar without saying another word. As she walked along the
door and called, "Milk!" A girl wearing grubby pyjamas came road she muttered to herself,
out to collect it. As she poured out a bucketful, the woman "Oh if s killing my family, living like this. Frightened of
shouted to her from inside. storms and landslides day and night, making our living by
"Bring an extra three seers tomorrow, sister, to make turning over the soil twice a year
creamed rice. Bring good milk, won't you!" on two acres of land. I'mgoing to
"Tell her I can't. It's hard to deliver right now. After that sell both the co ws, and the heifers,
storm... I might not come tomorrow. Tell her to try somewhere I'll sell the whole lot oncel'vegot
else." a good price. I'm going to sell the
The woman had overheard: she came out of the door and land too. And the tin and wood
looked at Kaley's mother. from the houseand the cowshed.
"You bring the milk. How can I go out looking for milk in I'm going to take a little room in
the town, for five or six rupees.
I'll sell greens in the market, like
Thuley'smotherdoes.Heknows
masonry and carpentry, or else
he could easily get work as
watchman. I'll be able to bring
up those two children faT more
easily. I'm not going to live in
that desolate place any more..."

She felt much better once


she had decided this. Theachein
her legs disappeared, she no
longer cared about getting soaked
in the rain. In this cheerful mood,
she approached the foodstore in
the middle alleyway. There she
bought two annas of peas and
chickpeas, and put them in her
bag. The tailor's wife was shopping there too, so Kaley's
mother asked her, "Are there any rooms available near you,
sister?"
"No, there aren't Why, sister,have you had a landslide?"
"No, I'm just looking for somewhere to live neareT the
bazaar. For 10 or 15 rupees, not too far from a water supply and
a lavatory."
"There is one room," said the tailor's wife, a thin woman,
"With two rupees for power, it's twelve rupees in all. There
was a plainsman renting it, but he's left. I'll let you know
tomorrow, sister."
"I'll come and see you myself. Tomorrow, at about this
time." She opened her umbrella and headed for Malgodam.
She had two more deliveries to make before she went home.
She aVrived on B.B. Gurung's verandah. The house had been
full of people since nearly morning. A few stood outside,
26 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994
talking under umbrellas. Kaley's mother went around to the up her bag and the churn.
back to deliver the milk. She could not discover what was When she had delivered to the watchman's wife, and
going on. Something must have happened - cither to the poured some out for the littlest daughter who brought out a
husband or to the wife; there were no children. The fat wife small bowl, Kaley's mother sat down on a sack on the ground.
used to come and go all day, her wooden sandals clacking. She The watchman's wife poured her a cup of tea with milk,
went all over town carrying her white cat, Nini. The husband then he asked, "How are things out your way? The storm must
owned a dry-cleaning shop up on Laden-la Road. have caused lots of damage. Itmusthave wrecked everything."
"What's happened? Why are all these people here?" she Kaley's mother did not speak her thoughts, and the
asked the woman who came from next door to collect the milk. watchman's wife went on, "There's nothing for us to be afraid
"Nini's mother had a fall last night. She's unconscious." of here in the town, but I knowhow hard it is out in the villages
"Where did she fall?" and tea gardens. That's what made my father move to the
She heard that the cat had been outside in the rain when town..."
the door was locked in the night. It must have mewed and Kaley's mother replied rather forcefully, "Oh, disasters
mewed, but nobody heard it above the din of the storm. When happen everywhere. It's true, the storm did do some damage.
the rain eased a little, there had been a search for the cat. They But we'll put it right now. It's not an impossible task, I have my
had looked outside, and called and called, but the cat had not house, my cowshed,my cows in theshed. And there's the land,
come. Nini's mother's sandal had slipped as she was going with thirty or forty bamboo trees, and fig trees and fruit trees
down the hill to look for the cat, and she had fallen down on the too. The rows of cucumbers stretch up to the sky... How much
road. A doctor had been called urgently, but he hadn't comeat damage can a storm really do, after all? I must go now and get
once. The woman was still unconscious. started.
"If s all the result of that stupid cat!" said Kaley's mother She gulped down the tongue-scalding tea and hurried off
quietly. "That's1 it there, isn't it?" to the bazaar to buy the nails.
"It's getting very late," she said to herself, "Kaley's father
A white cat sat warming itself and licking its fur by the will be furious!" »
fireplace. Kaley's mother couldn't just walk away. She sat
down on the doorstep, and soon the husband cameoutin tears. Indra Bahadur Rai is the renowned literateur of Darjeeting, who in the 1960s
initiated the TesroAayam(Third Dimension) movementof Nepali literature,
The woman had died. together with Iswor Ballav and Bairagi Kainla. Michael Hutt teaches Nepali
"HowastonishinglWhata shame!" Kaley's mother picked at Die School of Oriental and African Studies, London.

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Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 27


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Mar/Apr
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T
Ad
■ himphu,
visory Council
he was ininstrumental
1984 as representative
in raising N
issues
(councillor)
of national
of theconcern
people of
such
Samchi
as border
and o
demarcation
Chirang districts,
in the
southern
north, identity
Bhutan. cards
Rizal ve
for
did all
notcitizens,
have formal
enhancement
education,
of foreign
and in m
relations
1980 the Royal
and opening
Government
newsent
embassies
him for be
abroad.
ten months to Australia to study English. r,
In hisKing
public
Jigme
career,
personally
Rizal was
liked
vocal
Rizal.
in K
As
theeven
interest
one Government
of his constituents.
document Inwhich in
denigrates Rizal says, "His Majesty the g
King always had the highest hopes and Ji
g

Hostage in Thimphu
m
e
Si
n
g
ye
The most significant national-level political prisoner of W
South Asia is kept in prison to maintain the fiction of a an
gc
conspiracy against the Bhutanese State. hu
ck
w
as
by Bhakti Prasad Bhandari pl
e
a

A
s
e
d
fter three years in prison without to
charge or trial, shackled most of
the time and often in solitary
confinement, Teknath Rizal was
produced before Bhutan's High
Court late last year. Four years to
the day since he was abducted by
agents of the Royal Government of
Bhutan from his exile in Nepal, in a gr
250-page "reasoned judgement" — the an
words of the official paper Kuensel — the t
High Court sentenced '~|j Rizal to life hi
imprisonment. m
Whether the wider -■ "c
world knows of i t or not, Rizal ' '::S. on
is South Asia's most signi- : di
ficant political prisoner. ;* ti
While there obviously are ; ;-; on
political detainees serving :|j§ ^? al
time from Kashmir to ^;Y? cl
Colombo, Rizal's case is 1;^;'^;-^ e
uniquebecauseitis a national m
Government that has put him aH-'V<; ""'fit* en
behind bars. >■■'■■ t^Z^A cy
A fuil bench of "hon- |H::^X""'"\"\3 ",
ourablejudgesconductedthe ( ;-; ■ "': trial, w
which took place over a : full year, with 33 hi
hearings in ■■■.>""" which 15 witnesses ch
testified pB against Rizal. The judges w
handed down thesentence of life ou
imprisonment under the National Security ld
Act of Bhutan of 1992, legislated three be
years after Rizal's imprisonment. ac
Three days after the verdict, on 19 ti
vated upon resolution of the southern expectations from him as an official who
problem. could be trusted to play a constructive
Teknath Rizal became a member of role in promoting the long term interest of
Bhutan's National Assembly in 1975, and the people and the nation."
was subsequently elected to the Royal When he was elected councillor, King
Jigme appointed him head of an audit
team to look into the finances of all
development projects initiated after 1981.
Rizal took his responsibilities seriously,
and sought to bring to book those who
had misappropriated government funds.
High ranking and influential officials,
including those with links within the
palace, were directly and indirectly
affected.
Among others, those who were
troubled by Rizal's zeal were Prince
Namgyal Wangchuk (the King's step-
paternal uncle) and Princess Dechen
Choden Wangmo Wangchuk (the King's
sister), who faced questions on misuse of
foreign exchange earnings from the
Penden Cement Authority (PCA). The
then Managing Director of the PCA,
Rinchen Dorji, also related to the royal
family, was also involved. K.D. Tshering, a
former Dzongdag (district officer) and
broth er of the d epu ty Horn e Minister Dago
Tshering and Tshewang Penjore, another
Dzongdag and a brother-in-law of the
King's Chief Secretary Zimpen Dorji
Gyaltshen, too were investigated for
misuse of funds.
Much of the Royal Government's
initial harsh treatment of Rizal can be
linked to the resentment against him for
the investigations and findings of the
audit. A conspiracy was framed to indict
and take personal revenge under the cover
of Cabinet authority. Later, Rizal became
the convenient scapegoat for, as well as
focus of, dissident political activity.

Tsa-wa-sum
While the audit was nearing completion,
the Royal Government initiated a census
enumeration in early 1988, under the 1985
Citizenship Act. The instrument pres-
cribed a new set of criteria that contained
near-impossible requirements as far as
the Nepali-speaking citizens of southern
Bhutan, the Lhotshampa,wereconcerned.
The Act was designed and adopted
covertly by the authorities with the goal
of depopulating southern Bhutan through
the means of depriving ethnic Nepalis of
their citizenship.
As cases of official high-handedness
to implement this Act increased, there
was panic among the Lhotshampa.

Mar/Apr 1
Teknath Rizal
with his wife Kaushalya
and children in Jhapa.

Reports of harassment reached theNepali- royal attendant, that the King did not
speaking civil servants, including Teknath wish him to attend the Cabinet meeting.
Rizal, in Thimphu. At the same time, the To begin with, Rizal had made many
powers in Thimphu were proposing a enemies during the course of the audit
one kilometre wide "green belt" in and investigations. The Royal Gov-
southern Bhutan, part of the Royal ernment perceived that the absolute
Government's environmental rhetoric monarchy and theobjectives of the vested
which, incid en tally, threatened todisplace interestgroupsandtheirprivileges would
at least 30 percent of the ethnic Nepali be threatened in the event of a change in
settlements in South Bhutan. When this the system of government. The fears were
policy was rejected by the public as well compounded by the move towards
as donor agencies, the authorities came pluralism the world over, and the
up with a magical figure to ciaim that agitations of the Gorkha National
there were a hundred thousand non- Liberation Front which had reached fever-
Bhutanese in southern Bhutan. pitch in neighbouring Darjeeling. It was
As Mitsher-Kutchhap, people's therefore convenient for theCabinet to be
representative, in the Royal Advisory vindictive towards Rizal. The very act of
Council and as a Cabinet member, Rizal presenting the petition was seditious, the
sought audience with King Jigme and Cabinet pronounced. It recommended
apprised him of the problems the capital punishment for violation of the
Lhotshampa werefacing from thepolicies Tsa-wa-sum — King, Government and
adopted and from over-zealous function- Country.
aries. He spoke of serious ramifications of Rizal was stripped of his public post.
such ill-conceived policies and pleaded He was subsequently arrested, detained
for immediate review of the situation. and tortured. After spending three days
Rizal was commanded by the monarch to behind bars,hewas released conditionally
submit a report in writing. After consulting after being forced to sign a 'confession-
Lhotshampa bureaucrats in Thimphu, agreement'. The constant surveillance he
Rizal submitted apetition on 9 April 1988. was under and the fear of being re-arrested
King Jigme forwarded it to the Cabinet, with possibly fatal consequences
which met on 1 June. Rizal was informed convinced the 41-year-old Rizal to leave
by the all-powerful Gup Wangchen, a the country.
Prisoner of Conscience
At first, Rizal attempted to take shelter in
India, particularly in Assam and Sikkim,
However, friends and some prominent
individuals, who were worried for his
security, urged him to move to Nepal,
which was how he came to take refuge
across the border in the south-eastern
Nepali town of Birtamod.
Meanwhile, within Bhutan the
situation deteriorated as the regime
introduced increasingly discriminatory
programmes against the southern
population. People were constantly
emerging from Bhutan and apprising
Rizal of the unfolding situation, which
included the imposition of the dress code
forthegk>and/rim,droppingoftheNepali
language from the school curriculum,
arrests, and harassment of the rural
population. In exile, with the help of six
other Bhutaneseinexile,Rizal established
the People's Forum for Human Rights
(PFHR). (Rizal's naivete is reflected in the
fact that he started a human rights forum
in Nepal, a country where monarchy was
then battling the forces of multi-party
democracy.)
Rizal was abducted before his the
PFHR could begin any serious activity.
The Royal Government's claim is that
Rizal was extradited by Nepal, but there
is no extradition treaty between the two
countries. He was abducted along with
Sushil Pokhrel and Jogen Gazmere on 16
November 1989 from Birtamod, Jhapa, by
the Nepali police. In Kathmandu, the trio's
request for an audience with Prime
Minister Marich Man Singh Shrestha was
denied. Policemen in civilian outfits
handed the three over to Bhutanese agents,
led by King Jigme's aide de camp, Col V.
Namgyal, who were waiting on the
Tribhuvan International Airport tarmac
with a chartered Druk Air jet.
In Rizal's absence, those in exile
rallied behind PFHR, which was later
renamed theHuman Rights Organisation
of Bhutan (HUROB) in 1991, withRizal as
its chairman in absentia. In May 1990,
Amnesty International adopted Rizal as
its "Prisoner of Conscience".
Since his first arrest in 1988,Rizal has
continuously requested an audience with
the King, without success. While Rizal
hasbeen held practically incommunicado
for over four years now, some information
is available from those who have been
incarcerated with him in Rabuna prison,
Wangdiphodrang District. According to

32 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994


The
Hou
T tion of
Human
Rights,
he the
structur internat
e and ional
ethos covena
of nts on
Bhutan' civil
s and
judiciar politica
y are l rights,
based nor any
on 17th of other
century internat
codes ional
laid juridica
down l
by the standar
^countr ds
y's essentia
unifierj l for the
Sbabdr protecti
ungNg on
awang ofcitize
Namgy nsirt a
aijandt contem
hetodit porary
iona], nation-
practice state.
s of A
serfdo court in
m that Bhutan
existed is
in the cailedl'
country Thrimk
until hang''>
1967. literally
Even , 'house
though of
the punish
codes ments'.
were As the
revised travails
during . of Tek
1953- Math
57 by Rizal
the indicat
Nationa e/the
l court
Assemb does
ly, they indeed
are not dispens
in the e'only
spiritof punish
the ment^
Univers not
al justice.
Declara As
there is ,
no prosecu
written tion,
constit and
ution to judgem
guide ent
the There
judiciar is no
y, there provisi
is mi on for
nitnal jury
protecti trial or
on for the
those right to
accuse a eburt-
1
dlof
politica appoint
l ed
offense defenc
s, e
Th attorrie
e y/Nfof
judicia does
ry was the
suppos system
edly provide
separat for
ed lawyers
fjQnv or
the solicitor
executi s.
ve in Therear
1968. e only
Functio legalrep
nally* resentat
this has ives,
not known
happen as/»lO
ed. The Ti,wh0t
judges, 1nditex
appoint tremely
ed by diiffieu
and lttodefe
account nd the
able accuse
only to d under
the the
King, reStrict
are iye
themsel laws,
ve$ .,
respons ....... .......
ible for
. ^ . . . . . ■

Bh
allaspe utan
cts of Govern
thfe ment's
case, educati
indudiii on
g sehip
investig discour
ations, ages
filing student
of s from
charges taking
up N
studies one of
in the
law,anc sitting
i as a judges
result in the
there is High
not a Court
single who
Bhutan handed
ese d°wti
today the life
who is impris
profess onmen
ionally t on
qualifie Tek
d to Narh
practice Rizal
it. The can be
only sai d to
law ha ve
graduat any
e in hold
Bhutan, over the
, prin
Subama cipl es
Lama, of juri
is now spxud
a fence.
Deputy Not
Secretar only
y in the are
Ministr thest?
y of judges't
Trade fagi caf
and ly
Industr ittcorfi
y. petent
on
.....................
matters
of law,
they
also
lack
thesens
e of
service
and
commi
tment
so
necess
ary
amon
g
those
dispen
sing-
justic
e to
provid
e
effecti
verem
edy y
for throw
acts light
that on
violate hoWl
therig hecard
htsof s^arel
Bhutan steek
ese Mupa
dtizens ga'inst
> apoliti
When cal
someo prison
ne is er
accuse like
d,of■a Rizal.--
politica . : :
l
offeits Sonant
e, the Tobgy
learne e,
d Chief
judges Justice
take it —
for high
grante school
d-that
gradua
he-is
[&>$%■■: te
■'.. "
" D.NJs
.
' ,
■ .." '
atwal
_ " _
— an
A eighth
- grader
gl *
an Conne
ce r
at Direct
fe or of
e Posts
ba and
ck Telegra
gr phs '■■
ou Karma
nd Efaf ji
o. Sherpa
f -a
th rjiedic
e al
se dropou
ve t and
n former
of Dzond
ih ag
e (Distri
sit ct
ti Officer
ng ).
judges K.B.G
iri the haley
High *
Court aneigh
in th
Thimp grader,
hu/ma
a trythat
teache seeks
r, to join
a Hie
former comm
Gup unity
(Villag of
e nations
Head as an
man) in the
Dr. T. nacore
Yonte of'the
n i. a Tsa-
physid wa-"su
an m,
Chaga senten
y-an ced
eighth Tek
grader Nath
Napig Rizal
ay - a to life
fpriftej impris
nps onmen
Comm t for
issione treason
d , on 16
officer Nove
mber
in the
1993.
Royal
Bhuta -
n B.P.B
Army handa
rl
priso mo ts
n- ve and
mate me respe
s nt ct of
who by fund
were Lh amen
relea ots tal
sed ha freed
recen mp om
tly, a in in
Rizal exil Bhut
is in e, an.
good his R
healt thin izal
h kin is
and, g is prese
while as ntly
hedo clea kept
es r as at
not eve Che
kno r on mga
w the ng
muc nee Centr
h d a]
abou for Priso
t the hu n,
detai ma wher
ls of n e
the righ most
of pro fact
Bhut duc that
anese ed the
politi Riz conv
cal al ictio
priso bef n
ners ore was
are a unde
prese cou r an
ntly rt act
hous in that
ed. 19 was
This 92. adop
priso Th ted
n is e by
locat pro the
ed sec Tsho
near utio ngdu
Simt n (Nati
okha fra onal
Dzon me Asse
g in d mbly
Thim its )
phu. cas three
e years
Sho pri after
w ma Riza
Tria rily l's
l on arres
After circ t
three um prov
years stan es
of ces the
keep and sho
ing inci ws
Rizal den the
in ts bona
solit that fide
ary occ of
conf urre the
ine d entir
men dur e
t, ing exerc
and Riz ise,
prob al's A
ably lon mnes
conc g ty
erne det Inter
d enti natio
over on. nal's
its Th requ
inter e est
natio ver for
nal y perm
imag issio
e, n to
the witne
Roya ss the
l trial
Gov was
ernm turne
ent d
finall down
y by
Forei will who
gn ing had
Mini nes left
ster s to the
Daw testi coun
a fy try
Tseri agai for
ng. nst fear
The Riz of
15 al; perse
witn Do cutio
esses ena n in
who ray 1989
took an and
the Kat later
stand wal went
again , a back
st Hig to
Rizal h Bhut
inclu Co an
ded: urt and
K.D. jud is
Chett ge now
ri, a and abso
form me rbed
er mb in
Dun er
gpa, of
sub the
distri Bh
ct uta
offic nes
er, e
who tea
had m
absc for
onde bila
d tera
after l
havin talk
gbee s
n wit
charg h
ed Ne
with pal
misu on
sing the
subst issu
antia e of
l Bh
gove uta
rnme nes
nt e
fund refu
s and gee
whos s;
e Ga
char gan
ges Pra
were dha
drop n, a
ped stu
on den
his t
gove an inst
rnme and the
nt is Tsa-
servi no wa-
ce; wa sum;
and con soug
Nara trac ht to
yan tor. overt
Giri, T hrow
a he the
form larg legiti
er e mate
Gup nu and
of mb estab
Sibs er lishe
oo of d
Distr cha gove
ict rge rnme
who s nt;
had put tried
left for to
Bhut war insti
an d gate
feari by the
ng the frien
arrest Go dly
in ver peop
1989 nm le of
. He ent India
was wer and
one e Nepa
of not l
the ma again
main des st the
conf ubj Roya
idant ect l
es of to Gove
the cro rnme
dissi ss nt
dents exa and
at min creat
the atio e
Garg n misu
anda dur nder
refug ing stan
ee the ding
cam tria betw
p in l. een
West Th don
Beng e or
al cha coun
befor rge tries
e s and
they wer the
mov e Gov
ed to that ernm
Nepa he ent;
l. had direc
Giri inci ted
also ted subv
re- reb ersiv
enter elli e
ed on activ
Bhut aga ities;
sowe nor nese;
d the and
com rn writt
mun and en
al sou sediti
disc the ous
ord rn book
betw Bh lets.
een uta

Mat/Apr 1994 H1MAL . 33


Rizal's activities, his personality and return, while hoping that delaying tactics it was due entirely to erroneous
the chronology of even tsduring the crucial will lead to the bulk of refugees government policies and their
years 1987 to 1990 clearly show that the assimilating among the larger Nepali- implementation.
Royal-Government's charges—of inciting speaking population of South Asia. The sentence given to Rizal is also
rebellion, subversion and communal Rizal, of course, is not available for meant to show the Royal Government's
discord,tryingtobringdowntheThimphu comment regarding the High Court's resolve to those living in exile in the
government, and attempting to create judgement and the King's supposed refugee camps that resolution of their
misunderstanding with neighbouring magnanimity. predicament is not in sight. The hope is
countries and donor countries — are It seems that the Royal Government that the Nepali-speakers will ultimately
without merit. To put things in and King Jigme want to project Rizal as lose heart and give up on their hope of
perspective, Rizal was abducted and the pivotal personality in the drama that return to their villages. Meanwhile, in
detained prior to the mass uprisings that is being played out in the desperate hills parallel with the life sentence, the
took place in Bhutan in September- of southern Bhutan, already emptied of a conditional clemency comes handy to
October 1990. He had little or no role in large chunk of their Lhotshampa deflect international criticism.
the major information activities that have population. As late as 20 November 1993, Thimphu also obviously fears that
been taken up against the Bhutanese for instance, Kuensel was reporting that Rizal's presence in exile might help
Government machine. Certainly,, he is "Teknath Rizal is a central figure in the consolidate the hopelessly fragmented
innocent of any accusations of inciting political groups in exile undeT one
anyone to violence,given thathehasbeen umbrella, to pose a serious threat to the
behind bars since November 1989. regime. However, given thetime required
On the last charge, Rizal did help Rizal's ongoing detention is a to build a political culture among people
translate two booklets while in Birtamod, fig leaf to try and hide the (viz, the refugees) that have been kept
including Bhutan:HamroAdhikarKhoi. This trumpei-up charges against under such tight control, it is unlikely that
was a translation of Bhutan: We Want Rizal's presence in exile would consolidate
justice, which was written by Ratan and the Lhotshampa. the divergent forces into a single
Jogen Gazmere, the politically active monolithic forum.
brothers from Samchi, with the help of Some have wondered whether Rizal
two British volunteers working at the anti-government propaganda which has the calibre to remain the symbol for
National Institute of Education. Both surfaced after Bhutan began its first Bhutanese in search of human rights and
brothers were imprisoned with Rizal, but nationwide census in 1988." In its various fundamental freedoms in their homeland.
have been released and areinjhapa. The publications, the Government has While he was not "politically ambitious"
High Court justices seem not to have implicated Rizal in many more in the manner characterised by the Royal
considered the legal implications of 'conspiracies' than what the dissidents Government, the initiative Rizal took in
releasing the authors and convicting the are capable of. starting a human rights organisation
translator. The fear must be that without a certainly shows his commitment. Rizal's
The Government weekly Kuensei ringleader to point to, the Government's work in Bhutan was either supported or
reported that "Teknath Rizal chose to propaganda about a Lhotshampa plan to guided by people around him. Hispolitical
defend the case himself rather than call a bring down the G overnm entmightsound personality has been moulded by circum-
jabmi." This does not come as a surprise hollow. For this reason, even though stances and conviction. It is an open
as it is not possible to get a jabmi Teknath Rizal might not be any of the question whether, were he to be released
(representative) to defend the accused things the Royal Government charges him by the Royal Government as per the royal
under Bhutan's restrictive laws, with, it is important to keep him behind clemency proviso, Rizal will continue to
par ticularlyina case as sensitiveas Rizal's. bars in order to maintain the fiction of an champion thecause of political reforms in
Also, the legal system does not provide insurgency and a concerted plan of Bhutan. His future actions would be
for cross-examination of government subversion. For the King and his guided by his conviction and commitment
witnesses. Rizal was hostage and victim Government, therefore, Rizal's ongoing with regard to the democratic movement
of a show trial detention is a fig-leaf to try and hide the in Bhutan.
trumped-up charges against the For the moment, through his tortured
Conditional Clemency Lhotshampa as a whole. stay in prison, and the Royal Govern-
On 19 November 1993, just three days Rizal's image as the central figure in ment's claims on his guilt, Teknath Rizal
after the High Court's handing down its the Bhutanese upheaval was projected has become the central figure in the four-
judgement, King Jigme announced a more by the Royal Government than by year long, Bhutanese crisis.
conditional clemency for Rizal. The King the dissidents. By no stretch of imagination
proposes to release Rizal as soon as the could anyone believe that as National
B.P, Bhandari is a former civil servant who served
southern problem is resolved. It is not Assembly member and Councillor Rizal time in Bhutanese jaits without charge for 27
clear what would constitute a resolution was capable of plotting an overthrow of months, until his release on 17 December 1992.
of the southern problem. Given the track the Government. If there was a reason for He was Amnesty International's Prisoner of
record of the Royal Government thus far, the sudden crisis in southern Bhutan and Conscience, and spent his entire jail term In Rabuna
prison, where T.N.Rizal had also been housed.
Thimphu's interpretation would probably the subsequent political fallout and Bhandari is presently member of the Bhutan
mean allowing a trickle of the refugees to creation of a refugee populationof 100,000, National Democratic Party and stays in Jhapa

34 . H1MAL Mar/Apr 1994


Mistaken Antiquity
by Don Messerschmidt

In the early 1970s, when the renowned art historian Pratapaditya Pal came to
Kathmandutoresearchhisbook,TheArtsotNepa\(1974),heaskedNepaliarti$t
and art historian Lain Singh Bangdel to help him identify and date a mysterious
sculpture found outside Bankali. What resulted was an academic argument and
the unfolding of a most unusual story.

The Bankali pointed beard, tightly other ancient


temple, where Pal pursed lips, a flat sculptures, like the
found the stone image nose and vacant nearby figure of
isin Mrigasthali, a eyes set off Virupaksha.
wooded knoll on the beneath arched Ultimately, he called
east bank of the eyebrows giving it a the
Bagmati river, where sinister expression mysteriousimagean
Lord Shiva is — and from a "unidentified figure"
believed to have been distance, an and dated it "4th
seen wandering, effeminate look. His century or earlier(?)"
disguised asa mriga hair, curling on top Artist Lain
(deer). and falling in long Bangdel, however,
Pal, strands down the came
nowacuratorat the back and sides, todifferentconclusio
Los Angeles County showed him to be an nsabouttheimage's
Museum of Art, ascetic. origin,ageand style. In
thought it to bea It must be of his Early Sculptures of
linga, but one so some Shaivite Nepal (1982),
strange that he teacher, surmised Bangdel points to its
wrote, "...there is historian Pal "crudely delineated
nothing else in Nepal concluding "(it) necklace designed as
or in India with must remain one lotus petals... clearly
which it is of those peculiar visible below the
comparable." iconographical
The upper enigmas of Nepal
portion of the shaft, and very likely
Pal observed, had a perpetuates an
human head carved image-type that had
on it and looked as if a local origin and
it was emerging from significance."
a lotus flower. It rested Given its crude
onajalahari, which, ■ style, Pal assumed
for a more the image to be very
conventional linga, old. He considered
serves as a base. It had its location in
a short chin, a tuft of association with
chin (which) Pal has future. When Adhikari
mistakenly assumed... Oneday, the went to visit again,
to be a 'human head Aghori said to the Aghori asked him
emerging from the Adhikari, "You must if he had a son.
lotus'." want a son." Yes,said "No" said
While he agrees Adhikari, he did want Adhikari teasing
with Pal that it did not a son. him, "I have a three-
have any affinities "In due course, day-old daughter."
with any icons found it shall be," said the The Aghori
either in India or Aghori. And true to looked at him
Nepal, he says his predictions, a son sharply and declared,
"crudeness" is not a was born to "You are lying, and
sure sign of antiquity. Adhikari! for that yourinfantson
"A glance will at once will die before
reveal," he says "that hisnaming ceremony
this image is not an on the sixth day!"
early icon, for there Sure indeed,
are no early features Adhikari's first-born
whatsoever to died the next day.
beseeninit. Remorseful,
Infact,itisaworkofthe Adhikari returned to
2Oth century..." the Baba and
Twoeminentscho beseeched him to
larsdrewdifferent help, promising not
conclusions, seeing to tease or lie again.
the same sculpture. The Baba predicted a
When this discussion second son for him.
was taking place, "This son, he said,
Bangdel, then the Vice "will live to grow
Chancellor of the old and bear sons of
Royal Nepal his own."
Academy in Not long after,
Kathmandu, not quite the Aghori Baba died
sure what the and he was buried near
mysterious image the Bankali temple.
represented, nor when Adhikari, too, died.
it was carved, sent a Adhikari's son grew
member of up, married and had
Pashupati's elite a son of his own.
Brahmins, to do some Some years later,
research. He came Adhikari's great
back with a very grandson, in memory
strange story indeed. of the events,
During mid "decided to honour the
1800s, there lived in Aghori Baba by
Bankali, a renowned erecting a memorial
yogi, who attracted stele at Bankali, in the
attention as an auguer likeness of the
and magician. It was Aghori's head. He told
said that he could the sculptor to create
predict the future, an image which "at a
make fresh fruit distanceappearsasaw
appear out of ashes, oman,butupdose
light fire simply by looks like a man." A
incantation, etc. novice stone cutter
People visited the was comissioned, a
Aghori Baba each day crude likeness sculp-
to hear his stories, ted and reverently
jokes, soothsaying placed atthe site where
etc., and marvel at his the Aghori Baba had
undeanliness. lived.
One of his The strange
devotees was Dambar Bankali image that
Bahadur Adhikari, a had
Chettri who came so baffled Pal is no
frequently to Bankali longer a mystery. But
to visit the Baba, to it retains a peculiar
pay his respects, get place in the history of
his blessings, admire Nepali art and
his jadus (magic) and sculpture.
listen attentively to his Unfortunately,
prognostications of the story does not end
here. In November great antiquity. The k
1982, the Aghori theft is recorded in D. Messerschmidt,
Baba image was Bangdel's recent anthropologist, was till
recently Research
stolen, book, Stolen Images Advisor at the Institute of
presumably for its of Forestry, Pokhara.
value as a piece of Nepal.

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 35


ABSTRACTS
Inside Sikkim: Against the Tide hydrological data among the regional states. Contributions to Nepatese Studies
by]igmeN. Kazi Hill Media Without substantial rethinking, the possibility of Voll9No2,Jull992 D.P. Bhandari, Chief Editor
Publications, Sikkim December sustainable utilisation of Himalayan water is Centre for Nepal and Asian Studies, Kathmandu
1993, IRs 150 remote, they write. Joel T. Heinen and Pralad B. NRs 100
Editor of the Sikkim Observer weekly and Yonzon present a review of conservation issues This volume of Contributions contains eight
correspondent of The Telegraph, Kazi says this and programmes in Nepal and call for a articles. In his "In Quest of Mahakiranti", George
book is an attempt todescribe "how things were comprehensive biological inventory and van Driem proposes that the Kirant kings who
and how some of us have been living all these monitoring system. Some important natural areas once ruled the Kathmandu Valley might be the
years — all atone and against the tide." He are recommended for protection and the shift in andent Ne war. Since "Kiran ti andNe war together
proposes to expose "the rot and hollowness" of focus from conservation of single species to form the hypothetical genetic unit within Tibeto
the 'democratic' system which was thrust at the broader aspects of biodiversity is welcomed. Burman", he suggests that unit be known as
time of the 'merger' in 1975. The struggle of the Joseph L. Fox, Chering Nurbu, Seema Bhatt and "Mahakiranti". PremUprety writes on "Medieval
Sikkimese people to preserve the distinct identity Alok Chandola discuss wildlife conservation and Buddhist Art in Nepal: Penetration of Pal
within the union and the fight for free movement land-use changes in Ladakh, with relation to Influences in the Himalayas". Ramawatar Yadav
and expression ... which has come out at a time introduction of new livestock breeds, irrigation in "The Use of Mother Tongue in Primary
when the people in the former Himalayan projects, farming practices, foreign tourists and Education: The Nepalese Context" writes that
Kingdom are, once again, marching for freedom the large military presence. J.S. Rawat and Nepalis use languages they are familiar with as
and democracy and demanding a better deal M.S.Rawat write on "accelerated erosion" in the per their convenience. He recommends a central
from New Delhi." In his preface, Kazi writes, Nana Kosi watershed of Kumaon: their institute for the development of languages be
"Even if the Centre is unwilling to go against preliminary results suggest that deforestation and established. Bert van den Hoek and Balgopal
(Chief Minister N ar Bahadur) Bhandari, the views agricultural activities increase the rate of Shrestha discuss Daitya and Kumar as the
of the Court and present anti-Bhandari wave in denudation by a factor of five to ten. Himalayanists protectors of the Taleju Bhavani of Kathmandu.
Sikkim, spearheaded by (Pawan Kumar) will also be interested in the paper on "erosional In discussing infrastructures for agricultural
Qiamkng's 5DF, is likely to dampen Bhandari's impact of hikers, horses, motorcycles and off- growth in Nepal, Y.B. Thapa refers to the needs of
prospects of a fourth consecutive victory in the road bicycles on mountain trails in Montana." "backward districts and backward sub-sectors."
Assembly elections slated for 1994-end." Kathleen M. Gallagher writes that squatting in
Focus on Ja ribuli Occasional Paper No 2/93 Kathmandu Valley should be looked at with a
Mountain Research and Development David M. Edwards and M. Roderick Bmven, historical perspective, and Sudhirendra Sharma
Voll4,Nol editors Forest Research and Survey Centre, 1993 that under.-development cannot be solved by
February 1994 Nepal-UK Forestry Research Project,, 1993 dependent development. The issue also contains
jack & Pauline Ives, editors These are the proceedings of a seminar on non- 4 book reviews. Pra tyoush On ta reviews Rishikesh
University of California, Davis timber forest products, containing seven papers. Shah's two books, Three Decades and Two Kings
This issue of MRD will be useful to South Asian D.M. Edwards suggests a potential for "increased (l960-1990)ar\dPoliticsinNepal(198Q-1989);Anne
scholars for the Himalayan papers it presents. quality control if processing facilities within Nepal M. Rademacher reviews Diwakar Chand's
The lead article by Jayanta Bandyopadhyay and are improved", Pralad Yonzon recommends Development through Non-governmental Org-
Dipak Gy a wall, on ecological and political aspects cultivating fhemain herb to "minimise the nega- an isalions in Nepal and Ananda P. Shrestha reviews
of Himalayan water resources, calls for major tive impact of over-use". Several writers suggest Gopal Chitrakar's photo book People Power.
institutional changes, attention to smaller projects, that more a tten tion needs tobepaidtotheexisting
and for sharing and publicising ecological and trade, while J.Y. Campbell suggests that up-to- A Bibliography at Himalayan Ethnography
date information on product prices and market Nepal Research Centre Publication No 15
demand, if made available to collectors and village by Beatrix Pfkiderer and Elisabeth Bergner

TIBET
traders, will help raise prices in the hill region. under collaboration ofReinhard Greve F.
Steiner, Stuttgart, 1990
This bibliography is the product of a seminar on
Child Labour in Nepal Himalayan ethnography at the University of
HANDBOOK No 13, Anti slavery International's HamburgintheSummerofl987.Itcontainsl881
Child Labour Series by Omar Sattaur entries, arranged alph abetically by author, subject

NEPAL
ASI-London and CWIN-Kathmandu, 1993 and ethnic groups. Works include ethnography,
ISBN 0900918 314 £5, NRs 200 historical and geographical accounts, and
Child labour to many, writes Sattaur, is travelogues of the region between Karakoram
HANDBOOK "unremarkable and therefore invisible." Seven and Nagaland but excluding Tibet.
chapters Include "The Roots of Child Labour",
guides for independent travelers "Kathmandu, The Schooling of the Streets",
"Children in Urban Industries", "Working on the Nepak Growth of a Nation
Tibet Handbook - 1,100 pages Land" and "Girl Child in a Man's World". The by Ludwig F. Stiller Human Resources
appendix lists the United Nations Convention on Development Centre, Kathmandu, 1993
US$35.50 postpaid NRs 100
the Rights of the Child, SAARC's Colombo
Nepal Handbook — 378 pages Resolution on Children, and the names of a Historian Stiller prefaces his book by saying that
number of organisations working on children's this is a survey history emphasizing the themes
US$16.45 postpaid rights. The report forwards a number of that "are significant to understanding the
recommendations on what the Nepali development of Nepal" written, in the main, for
MOON PUBLICATIONS, INC. foreigners "who work in Nepal and are sincerely
Government, the media and voluntary agencies
P.O.Box 3040 can do to address the problems of urban migration concerned with root causes of problems they
Chico.CA 95927-3040 of children and implementation pf existing child encounter." Fourteen chapters and an epilogue
tel. (916) 345-5473 labour laws. cover topics thatindude the relationship between
the land and the people, the vision and leadership
fax (916) 345-6751 of PrithviNaryan Shah, Rana politics, the growth
—free newsletter available --

36 HIMAL . Mar/Apr 1994


of centralised bureaucracy under the Ranas, and and its people, you should journey, if not alone, economy", the report recommends that "changes
"the awakening" that led to 1951 political with the smallest possiblegroup,soasnot to insu- should be initiated while more Nepalese people
watershed. late yourself with shared experience. ..the traveller still depend relatively little on fossil fuel, chemical
could wander from village to village, in the manner fertilizers, pesticides, and plastics." Contributors
Hindus of the Himalayas of the locals, living simply, making friends, to this volume are social scientists Mahesh
Ethnography and Change by Gerald D. learning secrets..." The book also contains a sketch Banskota, PitamberSharma, KamalBanskota,Bal
Berreman HB, Oxford University Press, Delhi map of Mount Everest and Rongbuk Glaciers. Ram Bhatta, Suresh Sharma and Tashi Tenzing.
1993 ISBN 019 563373 3 NRs680
Hindus of the Himalaya is based on anthropologist Kumaun, The Land and the People The Himalayan Journal
Berreman's research in 19S9 in Sirkanda, a hill ISBN 81 85182 89 2 Vol49,199M992
village bordering Dehradun and Tehri Garhwal. Garhwal, The Land and the People Harish Kapadia, Editor
The first edition of this classic was published in ISBN 81 85182 914 Himalayan dub, Oxford University Press, 1993
1963 by University of California Press and in the Himachal Pradesh, The Land and the People ISBN 019 5633660
1974 second edition were added a prologue, ISBN 81 85182 90 6 by This volume contains 17 articles, notes on 23
"Behind Many Masks: Ethnography and S.S. Negi climbing expeditions, 24 hook reviews, and hie
Impression Management" and an epilogue, Indus Publishing Company, New Delhi, 1993 histories of 3 mountaineers — D.F.O. Dangar
"Sirkanda Ten Years Later". Attempting "analysis IRS 250, U$ 25 (1902-1992), G.C.F. Ramsden (1893-1991) and
of social organisation in a uniquely organised These three books by Negi, part of Indus' "land Katsumasa Itakura (1915-1992). Illustrated with
caste society; and analysis of reactions to planned and people" series, will be useful for those looking black and white photographs, the volume also
and unplanned change in a remote and for start-up information on Kumaon, Garhwal carries a rev iew of the first Himalyan Journal (1929)
unsophistica ted village", Berreman concludes tha t and Himachal. fresented in identical style and published in the second Himalayan Journal (1930).
Paharis, the hill people, have "much to offer as format, each book is divided into 12 chapters ■—
well as much to leam if India is to realise the geography, history, economy, culture, Struggle for Existence: Park-People Conflict
potential inherent in them and in the land they environmental degradation, places of interest, in the Royal Chihvan National Park
occupy," The Oxford University Press is now out etc.— and contains bibliography and appendices. Human Settlements Development Monograph
with a "revised and enlarged" edition. by Sanjay Kumar Nepal and Karl E. Weber Asian
Nepal: The Rough Guide Institute of Technology, Bangkok, 1993 ISBN
Mountain Delight by David Reed Penguin 974 8209 601
by Bill Aitken English Books, India, 1993 ISBN 1 This is a monograph on the much-discussed issue
Book Depot, 85828 046 £5.99 of park-people friction lists the five main conflicts
Dehradun, 1994 ISBN Presented with humour, Reed's guide presents a in the vicinity of the Chitwan sanctuary. The
81 85567166 realistic account of what all you might expect primary culprit is the "divergence between the
This is a collecti on of colum nist Aitken's 24 pieces while travelling in Nepal, "...flights in the spring priorities and objectives of the park authority and
in various Indian papers. From the source of the and (especially) autumn high seasons get booked the local people". The authors recommend that a
Ganga, the writer travels eastward to the realms up to months ahead, while during slack times management planning process, involving both
of Nanda Devi. In an essay titled "The Importance carriers sometimes refuse to confirm reservations the park establishment and the villagers, be
of Yeti", Aitken writes, "The Yeti may suggest a until they've decided it is worth their while to initiated and that the locals be involved not only
benign cosmic force (a hidden master) trying to fly". With the help of sketches. Reed takes the in the planning but also in the implementation
scare us in to a realisation of our men tal conceit in traveler through Kathmandu Valley, the Mils, the and evaluation phases. They call for regulation of
assuming that, because we can climb the Everest, Tarai, and the Himalaya. There is no shame to resource utilisation, delienation of impact zones,
we have proved ourselves masters of wisdom." hiring a porter, for "porters are an important part and further scientific research.
In the concluding essay, "Ghosts on the of the Himalayan economy". Many things donot
Mountains" he says, "Is any mountain worth happen in Nepal on time, and "getting angry or Political Opinion Survey of
your life? The older you get, the easier it is to impatient will only confuse Nepalis and won't Kathmandu Valley, 1993
answer, no. Indian mountaineering is luckily in resolve the problem." Nepal Opinion Survey Centre
having the early example of Jack Gibson before it. Kathmandu, May 1993
He succeeded on Bander Poonch after many Nepal: Economic Policies for The Nepal Opinion Survey Centre interviewed
attempts, and every attempt was enjoyable Sustainable Development 522 people in its pilot test of proposed methods
because he was an all-rounder, interested in the and procedures for conducting a national opinion
Asian Development Bank, Manila Internationa]
total mountain environment. If this attitude can poll in 1994. The study lists the responses on
Centre for Integrated Mountain Development,
be cultivated instead of'assaults'and'conquests' issues such as political views, price rise, attitude
Kathmandu, 1992 ISBN 971 561 014 5
of peaks, maybe nature will be a little kinder towards democracy, satisfaction with progress
This report is one of seven country case studies
to the next generation of mountaineers, and made after democracy. The most interesting
prepared by the ADB in order to implement the
haunt us less." segment deals with how the respondents rate the
1987 reco mrrienda tions of the World Commission
King, the Cabinet and Parliament.
on Environment and Development, which called
People in High Places: Mustang, Everest for development which meets the needs of the
and Other Approaches to Tibet present generation without compromising the
by Audrey Salkeld needs of future generations. The Nepal study,
PB, Jonathan Cape, London, 1993 conducted by 1CIMOD, was completed in May .
ISBN 0224 03755 2 1990, and examines economic and environmental
£9.99 conditions in Nepal and most likely future trends,
Illustrated with beautiful colour photographs (of focusing on environmentally important sectors
Mustang, Ghorepani, Kali Gandaki and Tibet), and their linkages and on development. It also
the book by the well-known writer of Himalayan identifies major opportunities for long-term
climbing recommends, "...if you desire to gain balanced development of the economy and the
morethanasuperfidalunderstandingofaiegion environment. In transitioning fowards a "green

Available
for sale at
Himal
U$12NRs285

Mar/Apr 1994
REVIEW
A False Harmonising of
Himalayan Experience
Social vulnerability, rather than ecological vulnerability, has been the
primary driver of environmental change in the Himalaya.

F
ollowing in the
be reached through the
arduous efforts of
mountaineers and
poverty. Overlay this
with the entry of roads
and the colonial
footsteps of Erik pilgrims. Instead, the intrusion of commercial
Eckholm, the well- writer stresses the influences, and the
known promul-gator of geological youth and pressure on the
the Himalayan instability of the ecosystem is
environmental crisis Himalaya, as well as accentuated. While
back in 1976, here we its extraordinary
have another ecological fecundity
WorldWatch Institute and cultural diversity.
babu drawing our Denniston's
attention once again to central mission,
the urgency of attending however, is to plot the
to the troubled dangerous trajectory
Himalayan ecology. currently beingfollowed
This time around, whereby the "ancient
Derek Denniston aims balance" between nature
to undo the pervasive and people has been
invisibility of the broken through the
mountain problem in the encounter with
international arena. modernisation, which is
By vividly inevitably 1 eading to
portraying environmental degradation. In doing so,
degradation's he takes up the more
challenge to mountain recent and
livelihoods, fashionable canon,
Denniston encourages popularised by
readers to envelop the Eckholm, whose
ecologically vulnerable storyline has been,
Himalaya within the ironically, rather simple
"protective embrace of for a region so diverse.
their consciousness." He The ingredients of
starts off by deflating the what came to be known
old Western canon as the Himalayan
which portrays the Degradation Theory
Himalaya as a solid, story are well-known: a
rugged and growing population on
impenetrable barrier, a fragile ecological base
the mythical abode of will inevitably slide
deities which could only down the slope of
Saving the For a start, Certainly, it is quite
Himalaya Denniston's analysis is clear that the sheer
by Derek quite brittle because he incline of the slopes in
Denniston rests his case for a some parts
World Himalayan problem on themountainspose
Watch the ecological considerabl e d ifficulty
magazine vulnerability which is for farmers. But the
Washing said to exist tendency to see all
ton DC throughout the Himalayan zones as
November/De Himalayan bloc. Yet singularly fragile is
cember 1993 nowhere does he misplaced. The
explain what he means challenge of deforested
by Nayna J. by this "ecological hillstotheagro-
Jhaveri vulnerability". Is it pastoralistsintheMiddle
simply correlated with Hills around Kathmandu
the mountains' is quitedif f erent from
Eckholm's reports focused geological instability therelative ease with
largely on India and and youth? How is it which nomads are able to
Nepal, Denniston's that such a biologically pursue their pastoral
distant gaze has been diverse place becomes lifestyles in the rolling
moulded by thebroader so fragile? grasslands of western
ambit of the work of the Tibet.
International Centre for With his eyes placed
Integrated Mountain squarely on the
Development ecological basis of
(ICIMOD), which was mountain livelihoods,
set up in 1983. the writer ends up
Denniston tries to show neglecting the
us the similarity of combination of socio-
survival strategies political conditions
across the full panorama which make social
of Himalayan terrain, vulnerability, and not
from the Afghanistan ecological
Hindu Kush to the vulnerability, the
Chinese Hengduan primary driver of
mountains. environmental change.
An understanding of how
A Distant Gaze subsistence farmers are
The researcher's grasp designing new
of regional livelihood strategies for
environmental change dealing with such two-
has been mainly edged swords as
compiled from his improved accessibility
encounters with and commercial
various researchers and opportunities can be
non-governmental better reached through
spokespersons familiar amore substantial
with the Himalayan grappling with national
predicament. While the and regional political
'indigenous' flavour themes.
ofmost of his sources This political
would therefore appear dimension, largely
to lend greater absent in Denniston's
credibility to the scenario account, is already
he builds, it is evident present in the
that Denniston lacks a literature. It has been
more detailed familiarity popularised by political
with the landscape's ecologists such as Piers
character. This has largely Blaikie and Harold
prevented him from Brookfield, who in their
putting together a more study of the Himalayan
rooted and nuanced condition have pointed to
presentation of the the importance of
collected pieces of identifying the "chains of
regional experience. explanation" which nest
the farmer's decision D.M.Griffin, K.R- resource use patterns.
within the broader Shepherd and Narayan
political economic Khadka, all of whom Generalisations
context. Also, Denniston have highlighted how If social vulnerability is
bypasses the important government policies on going to take on a larger
work of key researchers land, forests and food part of theHimalayan
such as Deepak supply have played a Degradation
Bajracharya, major role in moulding
T.B.S.Mahat, the politics of natural

38 HIMAL . Mar/Apr 1994


Theory, then Denniston will also need to caught up with events which although of ceased" weakens the credenceof his policy
amend his portrayal of "Himalayans" as a central importance to parts of the suggestions. If Denniston had carried out
singular species of subsistence farmers Himalaya most affected byroads or urban a more politically contextualised analysis,
carved out of hardy and indigenous markets, are not key si gnifiersof all village it would have been less easy for him to so
agrarian material. Somehow, for him, the experience. The bald declaration that assertively put forward the straight-
changing state of livelihood strategiesand "mountain villagers developed depen- forward populist plea for "a bioregional
responses of these mountain villagers, a dence on mass-produced goods from the strategy for the entire range". His
culturally diverse lot, can be predicted in south",or that "appleorchards... now cling prescription lacks a recognition of the
a unilinear response graph. to marginal hillsides from the Thimphu enabling role thattheStatecan potentially
Such a position stands in contra- district of Bhutan to the Northwest play. How will farmers in the plains be
diction to Denniston taking at face value Frontier Province of Pakistan" give a false able to communicate their concerns to
the romantic beliefs of environmentalists impression of the extent to which communities upstream. How can a
like Anil AgarwaloftheNew Delhi-based modernisation bears upon village life. bioregional strategy emerge without
Centre forSrienceand Environment, who In those areas which have come under coordination at a higher level beyond the
is quoted as saying that the region's the 'development' umbrella's closer care, villager or valley? And other than the fact
"cultural diversity is not a historical such sectors as tourism, education and that the plea for a "bioregional strategy"
accident", but rather "the direct outcome health have probably been more keenly seems rather naive, it is unclear what he
of the local people learning to live in impressive in guiding the direction of really means by the word "bioregional".
harmony with the region's extraordinary ~progress'. Quite simply, the region's Does this involve a regional approach?
biological diversity". The naivete of experience are somewhat more diverse Or, is it one which sees the bioregion as
environmental determinism which binds than is made out, very often due to the one within which one type of ecosystem
nature and society together in such a tight very different role government plays in exists? If the latter is the case, then clearly
causal manner went out in the social the various Himalayan countries. There we are left with this deep-rooted problem
sciences quite some time ago. The lesson has not been the same "downhill of how we define the ecological character
to be gained for those who study the migration" everywhere: farmers in the of the entire Himalayan range? Is it one
Himalayaanditspeopleisthatweneedto Hengduan mountains of Yunnan and bioregion, or need we become more
recognise how the region's complex socio- Sichuan have largely stayed put while sensitive to the differing nature of
political history has contributed to its rich those in parts of Nepal and Uttarakhand ecologies from locality to locality?
cultural constitution. have descended to the plains. In sum, one wonders if distance
The evidence Denniston uses in The driving forces behind defo- prevents these Washington babus from
demonstrating how subsistence farmers restation also vary, as Denniston does really discriminating between the types
are battling with the nature of ecological point out. Commercial logging is the of signals being emitted from the
fragility allows him to make some central culprit in China, Himachal Pradesh Himalaya? Is there a political economy of
elementary mistakes. For example, the or the Tarai, whereas it is household use knowledge whose rippling structure only
difficulties of firewood collection, a key which has played a larger role in much of manages to transmit the stable image of
facet of the Middle Hills experience, is the Nepali hills. For that matter, we have the Himalayan fragility, and not the
mistakenly translocated to thearid Tibetan also not witnessedtheemergenceof social fluctuating vagaries of political lives in
plateau. Denniston is misinformed when movements such as the Indian Chipko in the region? Denniston might take a lead
he states that nomads in this region "travel other parts of the Himalaya. from the incongruous illustration accom
with a small herd of yaks for seven to panying the article, where the mountains
eight days to collect several weeks' worth Bioregionalism are being dunked with chopsticks into
affirewood."Dung,rtotwood,isthemain What type of Himalayan panacea, then, is some sort of Chinese dip, and attempt to
source of fuel there. required to "Save the Himalaya", that submerge himself more fully in
Part of the same thinking method overused activist slogan which theeditors Himalayan histories, in all their diversity.
permits the writer to prolong the myth of Worldwatch have also fallen for? The sculpting of the Himalayan
that population growth invariably Denniston recommends "a Himalayan- image and the portrayal of its woes could
con tributes to accelerating environmental wide initiative to return local forests to have been donemoreartfully.Denniston's
degradation throughout the Himalayan the collective ownership of villagers cover feature — which one expects will
range. Thisstatementcannolongerremain would give them thedirect incentive they also appear as a Worldwatch monograph
unquestioned, especially after a whole need to sustain this natural wealth." While before long — is only the latest in a long
series of research has contradicted such there is no doubt that the recent line of research works that have over
simplelogicFortheMiddleHillsofNepal, decentralisation of forest management in simplified and over-generalised the
certainly, we find that the relationship Nepal has provided village communities Himalaya. What has been said here will
needs careful examination. Jefferson Fox's with greater incentives to improve their apply to numerous others who have
study of Nepal's Bhogtenivillageover the forest quality, the enhanced zest with writtensimilarlyinthepast,and doubtless
period 1980 to 1990, for one, shows that which Denniston can claim "now that will in the future as well. *
the forests were in a better condition ten villagers again have common ownership
N.J.Jhaveri is a doctoral student in geography at
years later despite an annual population of their forests, degradation through Clark University, Massaerujsettsrand is specialising
growth rate of 2.5 percent. excessive grazing, clearing of farmlands, ort the common property resource management
Overall, Denniston lets himself get and harvesting fuelwood has virtually systems In the Hengduan mountains.

Mar/Ap
_____________________________

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Bahuns, Nepal's hill Brahmans, have become the whipping boys
of the present-day ethnic leadership. Grab one by the collar though, and
you will find that he has forsaken most of Ms supposed traits.

by Prayag Raj Sharma

B
some in the ethnic leadership can have democratic Constitution later that year.
far-reaching implications, including the One significant development during
undermining of the very concept of the this period was the coming together of
rahmanism is under d eep scrutiny. In Nepali State, its unity and integrity. If this activists from among different ethnic
Nepal, the era of multiparty d process of uncritical lambasting continues groups to form the Janajati Federation.
emocracy hasbroughtforthmany toits natural denouement, today's Bahun- Anti-Brahmanism has been one of the
scholars,andlargernumbers of politicians bashing—for what it means to the notion main planks of the Federation's
and activists of ethnicity, who are critical of Nepal — will harm all population programme. This lobby tends to heap
of what they maintain is the continuing groups of the country, regardless of class, blame and all real and perceived national
hold of Brahmanism over Nepali life and place of origin, religion or ethnicity. ills — from the idea of the Hindu state to
polity. However, it is not immediately upper-caste Hindu domination in national
clear how much of this criticism of Nomenclature and Ancestry politics, and the existing social and
Brahmanism arises out of a deep-seated Ethnic disgruntlement has always been a economic realities — on unfortunate
dislike for Bahuns as individuals and as a facet of Nepali history, and it could not Brahmanism. According to this view, the
group, and how much arises from have been otherwise in a country of such exploitative tendencies of Bahuns is still
disavowal of the country's political and demographic diversity. Under successive very much there and continues even in
administrative heritage. autocratic regimes right up to 1990, today's democracy. The point is backed
Certainly, the Bahuns of Nepal have however, the sensitivities of the people with reference to the stillborn move to
no monopoly on saintliness, despite their remained largely bottled up. Ethnic impose Sanskrit in the school curriculum
claims to religiosity and higher learning. politics surfaced dramatically and andthenationallanguagestatusaccorded
Likemembers of any other group,Bahuns unambiguously with the dawn of to Nepali in the new Constitution. Both
have their share of ills and shortcomings democracy in Spring 1990, and gathered are seen as sign s o f Brahmani c domi na ti on.
along the lines of which they have been momentum during the drafting of the The more sweeping den-unciations
stereotyped. While this stereotyping, too,
initselfisnotu nexpec-ted ,theincreasingly
shrill anti-Bahun pronouncements by
Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 41
It is not as though nudging the country
towards ethnic brinkmanship is the only sign for, these demandsmustbe acknowledged
of civilised living in the late 20th century. and included in the political agenda. And
this must be done announcing a
timebound planand targetdates. Equally,
where the demands are unreasonableand
politically unwise, a force of opinion must
be generated and a firm 'no' be said
without delay. It is in this context that the
Federation's attacks on Brahmanism
needs to be analysed.

Colonial Bahun
Bahuns ha ve been inextricably linked with
the process of formation of the Nepali
State — such as in the setting up of the
monarchical polity, and in the integration
of disparate communities with a common
link language. In contemporary times
while all other groups have played the
role, it is the Bahun community which has
provided the bulk of the leadership in the
struggle for democracy and social
tr ansf ormati on.
It is a truism that should, hardly need
repeating, but Bahuns have been part of
Nepal's past and ongoing heritage. When

castigate Brahman ism as Th e go vemm ent authori ti es,


representative of foreign culture, political irties and the informed and
and liken Bahuns to aliens and responsible lblic need to study these
outsiders. Bahuns are called demands riously. A time has come to
'Aryans', not to flatter them, but formulate a gent, rational and
to depict them as a class apart comprehensive policy ■eping the long-
and without rights to domicile term social health of the untry and all
in the hills of what is today its people in view. If the deration is
Nepal. The non-Aryans are right in what it is pressing
said to comprise all the ethnic
groups. A more popular form
of designating the diff-eren ce
b etween the two groups is by
referring to the shape of the
proboscis: the pointed -nose
Bahun and snub-nose hill ethnic.
The contest over who are the
indigenous and who are the
non-indigenous people of Nepal
is also part and parcel of this very
politicised tussle over nomen-
clature and ancestry.
To put things in perspective,
itmustbenotedthatthejanajati onslaught
against Brahmanism derives from concern
for what the leaders feel is a historical
wrong that leaves ethnic communities
under severe disadvantage in present-
iay Nepal. To rectify the imbalance, the
Federation has been adding to its list of
iemandsfromtheGovernment,toreceive
vhat it calls full justice. These demands
nclude job reservations and a quota
ystem in appointments, political
epresentation on a proportional basis,
nd teaching in the mother-tongue in all
ne multiplicity of languages spoken in
le country. Then there is the proposal by
le Nepali Janajati Party to divide Nepal
\to 12 provinces, along ethnic and
nguistic lines.
opportunistic scho-
lars and the ethnic
leaders repeatedly
raise the anti-Bra-
hmanism bogey, they
must understand
that they are also
questioning some of
the fundamental
tenets of the Nepali
national charac-
teristic. The bogey
seems to negate all of
Nepal's historical
legacies and its poli-
tical heritage.
The string of Baisi and Chaubisi
states in West and Central Nepal, as
well as some other contemporary prin-
cipalities of the mid-17th century, all had
Bahuns in them, many of them enjoy-
ingpositions of privilege. Throughout
much of Nepal's recorded history,
Bahuns have served as ideologues,
priests, and even soldiers. Butmostly
they havebeen ordinary farmers,
managing livelihoods on the hillsides,
like everyone else. They too were sub-
jects of the state, not a class born to rule.
When the multiplicity of states was
unified by Prithvi Narayan Shah of
Gorkha, Bahuns replicated their earlier
role, this time on a Nepal-wide scale.
Bahuns need not be accused of all kinds of
evil just because career and growth in
Nepal has been coterminous with the
growth of the State.
Unification helped engender a
common outlook and aspiration for
statehood, order and organisation under
the prevailing ideology of that time, i.e.
Hinduism. Bahunsbecame an instrument
through whom this ideology spread and
got legitimised throughout the land. In
fact, this ideological and aspirational
bottomline was identical in all the states
of the time, both the weak and the
powerful. This was true in the history of
the Baisi and Chaubisi states of present-
day central and western Nepal, in that of
theNewarstatesofKathmanduValley,as
well as in the Makwanpur, Chaudandi
and Bijayapur states of the central and
eastern Tarai and hills.

. HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994


Ethnicity in Himal y\\ N D E X

Himal hasbeen presenting many viewpoints on the sensitive and important questions of ethnicity
and group identity. For readers' reference, here is a listing of all the entries in the computerised
flflHHHHIHH
, Himal Index, available to users
Himal Index under the following keywords: Anthropology, Brahmanism, Communal Tensions, m WordPerfect, has all.articles
Community Relations, Culture, Ethnicity, Ethnic Politics, Gurkhas, Identity, Indigenous Peoples, J that have appeared in Himal by
Janajati, Magar, Nationalism, Tamang, Tarai, Tharu. -chronology, by author; aiid by
Ikey word/subject. Topurchase,
Tamang, I'arshuram Dahal, DilliUdin University, Kirtipur Campus] /contact Managing Editor:
t ■: ■■■■ ■

[Lecturer 0/ economics. [Anthropologist, Centre for Nepal and Bahunvada: Myth or Reality?
Saraswati Campus, Kathmandu] Asian Studies, Tribhuvan University] Dept: Cover, Conference Report
Tamangs Under the Shadow Grasping the Tarai Identity May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) KWS: Ladakh/Communal Tensions/
Dept: Cover Dept: Cover KWS: Ethnic politics/ Brahminism; (557) Opinion; (712)
May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) May/Jun 1992 Vol5No3; (Grey)
SYN: Historically discriminated because SYN: How can the Tarai unite against Singh, Bhufinder Wahid, Siddlq
of their proximity to Kathmandu Valley, perceived highlander domination, with [Council for Social Development, [Ladakhi, who lives and works
Tamangs demand alternative develop- its peoples divided by ethnicity, caste, New Delhi] in New Delhi]
ment models and a political structure religion and region? Cauldron of Assam Riots in Ladakh and the
that provides hope. KWS: Tarai / Ethnicity /Regionalism; ©55} Dept: Cover Genesis of a Tragedy
KWS:Tamangs/Ethnidty/Histoiy;(559) May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) Dept: Views
Srinivas, Smriti SYN: The demographic transitions that Sep/Oct 1989 Vol 2No 4; (Green)
CurungrHaika [Sociologist, Delhi University! the Indian Northeast has endured, and SYN: Recent ethnicunrest in this "remote"
[Geographer] Ladakh on the Schedule the resulting rise of "political ethnicity", region have todo with the Ladahkis' own
Frontier to Boundary Dept: Briefs should be instructive for other areas where victimisation to the phenomenon of
Dept: Review Jan/Feb Vol 7 No 1; (Red) such transitions are more recent. "intellectual colonialism" that began with
May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) KWS: Ladakh/ Ethnicity; (757) KWS: Ethnic Politics/ Assam; (558) the Western missionary.
KWS: Ethnicity/ State; (566) KWS: Community relations/
I'radhan, Rajendta Gurung, Harka Ladakh; (239)
Shah, Saubhagya [Freelance consulting anthropologist [Writer and consultant]
[Sociologist, Reporter, Rising Nepal] based in Kathmandu] Representing An Ethnic Mosaic Sinha, A. C
Throes of a Fledgling Nation A Native by Any Other Name... Dept: Cover [Head, Department of Sociology, North-
Dept: Cover Dept: Feature May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) Eas tern Hill University,
Mar/ Apr 1993 Vol 6 No 2; (Purple) Jan/ Feb 1994 Vol 7 No 1; (Red) SYN: The social composition of Nepal's Shillong]
SYN: Hill Hinduism, monarchy, Nepali Bxl: The Government vs. the Indigenous House of Representatives is the outcome A Policy Bom of Apprehensions
language-the conventional symbols of a Peopled); of the people's choice... Dept: Cover
historically weak Nepali nationalism-are SYN: Are 'indigenous people' those who KWS: Ethnic Representation; (556) Jul/Aug 1992 Vol 5 No4; (Orange)
presently under attack. A crisis of identity were previously known as 'tribals'. SYN: History, Culture and politics set the
prevails among Nepal's educated. 'natives', 'aborigines' or 'ethnic minori- Prasad, Ramashish Lhotshampa and the Drukpa apart. The
KWS: Identity/Nationalism/ ties'? What is the use of yet another term. [Writer, who writes for several Indian Drukpa has decided to act, but can he
■ Ethnicity; (638) and is it applicable to most or Nepal's publications, including the fortnightly prevail in the long term?
communities? newsmagazine "Dinmaan'] KWS: Bhutan/ History/Culture; (579)
Fisher, William F. KWS: Ethnicity/ Indigenous People; (761) The Plains People
[Anthropologist, Harvard UniversityJ Dept: Cover Kasajoe, Vinaya Kumar
Nationalism and the Janajati Ethnicities, More Ethnicities Sep/Oct 1990 Vol 3 No 3; (Green) [Editor, "Satya' weekly]
Dept: Cover Dept: Cover SYN: The tarai people are not one faceless In Magar Country
Mar/Apr 1993 Vol 6 No 2; (Purple) May/June 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) group; they are diverse anddifferentiated. Dept: Cover
SYN: National unity will come from KWS: Ethnic Groups; (553) KWS: Anthropology/ Tarai; (331) Jul/Aug 1991 Vol 4 No3; (Orange)
embracing diversity, rather than by SYN: These hills of central Nepal run on
imposing uniformity. Kothaii, Rajni Pahari, Ami p Gurkha remittances, but is the money
KWS: Ethnicity /Janajati/ [Indian social scientist, Center for the Fatal Myth: A Critique of Fatalism being used productively?
Nationalism; (639) Study of Developing Societies, Delhi] and Development KWS: Magars/Gurkhas; (404)
Escaping the trap of cultural diversity Dept: Review
Sharnia, Prayag Raj Dept: Cover Jan/Feb 1992 Vol 5 No 1; (Red) Bista, Dor Bahadur
[Professorof History and Cultural studies May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) KWS: Development Theory/ [ Au thor. The People of Nepal & Professor
at the CNAS, Tribhuvan University] SYN; Variety is the spice of all life and Anthropology; (515) of Anthrop ology.
How to Tend This Garden? ethnicity its human expression. But Tribhuvan University]
Dept: Cover stripped of tolerance and respect, ethnic Ramble, Charles Tamangs:The Ethos of Balanced Exchange
May/Jun 1992 Vol S No 3; CGrey) feelings degeneratein to oc.mm un.nl hatred [Anthropologist, Who has done Dept: Review
SYN: Prithvi Narayan bequeathed a and conflict. research in Mustang] May/Jun 1990 Vol 3 No 2; (Grey)
"garden" of "4 caste division and 36 KWS; Ethnic Identity; (554) Whither, Indeed, the Tsampa Eaters KWS: Tamangs; (316)
tribes." Why not pull down the hedges Dept: Cover
and let a hundred wildflowers bloom? Subba, Tanka Sep/Oct 1993 Vol 6 No 5; (Green) Fanjiar, Tej Narayan
KWS: Ethnicity/ Nepali Nation; (547) [Reader of An thropology, North-Eas tern SYN: Becoming good Buddhists may well [Officer, National Planning
_ Hill University, Shjllong] be a mat terof people becoming something Commission of Nepal]
Pant, Kagini To Be or Not To Be "Nepali" they look as though they might have been Faceless in History
[Columnist, Bimarsha and Dristi weeklies. Dept; Cover but never actually were Dept: Cover
Kathmandu] May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) KWS: Buddhism/Indigenous Bon/ Jul/Aug 1993 Vol 6 No4; (Orange)
Pointed Noses, Stubby Noses, SYN: Blurry definitions needlessly target Identity; (715) SYN: The Tharus could not have hid out
and Local Elections the Nepalis of India. Terminology must in the jungle for aeons waiting to be
Dept; Cover come to the rescue. Malyon, Timothy discovered during themalaria eradication
May/Jun 1992 Vol 5 No 3; (Grey) KWS: Ethnic Identity; (561) [Freelance writer and photographer] campaign of the 1950s. They must havea
A longer version of this article appeared Ladakh at Crossroads history of their own.
in 'Bimarsha'. Malla, Kama] F. Dept: Cover KWS: Tharus /Buddhism /Origin/
KWS: Ethnicity/ Politics; (550) [Teacher of English, Tribhuvan Sep/Oct 1993 Vol 6 No5; (Green) Ignored; (695)

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 43


The ancestors of today's Bahuns have the rule by the absolute Hindu monarch.
Now that Nepal is a constitutional
known of no other home, no other country, monarchy and sovereignty has been
other than Nepal. restored to the people, the "Hindu State"
What are today regarded as the tools just because they are said to bedescended is no more than a label and Hinduism a
of Brahmanism — Sanskrit and Nepali — from Aryans. If weare to believe these old weak basis for the state's identity. Whileit
have helped in founding the state and in notions, we must also believe that the is unfortunate that the framers of the
the integration of a diverse land. They land of Aryavarta did not exclude the Constitution felt it necessary to define
have assisted in evolving a respectable, hills of what is today Nepal. The Aryans Nepal asa"HinduState",itisnevertheless
civilised polity in an area where aresaidtohavestretchedallthewayfrom true that this term can now never be
fragmented tribalism alone would have the Himalaya to the Vindhya hills. functional in providing the State with a
otherwise prevailed. basis to discriminate against non-Hindu
Prithvi Narayan founded a strong Language, Religion, Caste ethnic groups.
Hindu state in the Himalaya, through Rightly or wrongly, it is the practice to It is also important to bear in mind
conquest of arms. This is a fact of history, equate not only Sanskrit, but also the that opposition to the "Hindu State" itself
and similar facts of history — some of Nepali language,with Brahmanism. With does not appear to have secular and
which are bound to be unsavoury — will respect to Nepali,this view isabitskewed. humanist credentials, and extreme
pertain to every state on earth. Weaker Bahuns' role in the development and parochial attitudes seem to prevail among
groups and weaker powers have always enrichment of Nepali is not more opponents of the concept.
been overrun by stronger groups and substantial than thatof many other groups. If not in the language and religion,
powers. In the kind of political vacuum In its original form, Nepali was the tongue where else is Brahmanism hale and
thathad prevailed in thecentralHimalaya, of the Khasa of western Nepal. Over time, hearty? Certainly not in the caste
someeven ts were bound toovertake other Bahuns embraced this language as their system. This system was officially
events, and that is just what ended in the early 1963 with the
happened. Nepal's political promulgation of the new Muluki Ain.
unification in the 18th century own, forgetting their attachment to As far as one can tell, no Bahun in any
effectively filled a vacuum in the region Sanskrit They made Nepali the chosen position of influence wants this form
and created a viable political entity in its mode of literary expression. of social division to be restored.
place. If Prithvi Narayan had not In recent history, the Bahun Cosmopolitan Bahuns themselves
done it, some other person, we do not protagonists of Sanskrit have always lost look happier to make the best use of
know with what consequence, would their case against the Bahun proponents their newly found freedom from caste
have done it. of Nepali. This only goes to prove that rules. Many have forsaken all their
It is true that Nepal's earlier land Bahuns can make do without Sanskrit, traditional norms and mores regarding
tenure system was exploitative. But the likeanyothergroupinNepal.Atthesame dress, food and drink. Throughout Nepal
hallmark of feudal orders have always time, though, no one in his senses would these days, Bahuns do not have any
been that any group which can exploit disagree that Sanskrit's legacy in Nepal is qualms about eating buffalo meat and
another, does. This basic human trait of significant. This fact can and should be pork, and neither do they seem to mind
selfishness so exists in all groups and acknowledged without minimising eating more exotic kinds of red meat.
cannot be imputed to any one religion or Nepal's non-Sanskritic heritage. Sanskrit Today, Bahuns are a most diversified
philosophy. One might also say that the also has a functional role to play in caste, if one can still call them that. They
groups that were known as the Matwali explaining and enunciating Nepali. have made an entry into every possible
were downgraded ritually. One reason why many Bahuns do profession, turning possibilities that are
Otherwise, life in the hills was not not find the anti-Brahmanic sentiments available to everyone to full advantage,
marked by great isolation among Bahuns too credible is that for many of them, in particularly by emphasising the education
and membersof other ethnicgroups. There the late 20th century, Brahmanism is a of the young. Their professional training,
was a lot of sharing, and a lot in common. dead concept. It survives purely in its rather than the prerogatives of former
Brahmanical orthodoxy of the plains ascription. And if it survives anywhere caste, is what places Bahuns at the higher
adapted and softened itself to fit into the else, it does so in the imagination of a few echelons of today's society.
hill lifestyle. Social relationships were motivated leaders in the ethnic leadership. And the caste system, while it exists
formed at various levels between Bahuns Where else does Brahmanism in rituals like elsewhere in South Asia,
and other communities. The way Bahuns survive? In the constitutional does not provide the Bahun with any
dressed and attended to work was not denomination of Nepal as a Hindu state? political or economic clout through group
markedly different from that of the rest. But we all know how dilute this form of identity in a manner that is available to
Indeed, nothingis more preposterous Hinduism was even duringits peak period other communities.
than to call the Bahun 'coloniser', as some in the Panchayat system. Under the
have. Bahuns have had neither the bearing, Panchayat, the Hindu state served no other A Politicised Community
nor the skin colour, nor the superior- purpose than give political legitimacy to Bahuns' interest in politics has been old
minded mentality or behaviour of a and abiding. Along with the members of
colonial. Hence, there can be no guilt on a few other social groups, in the modem
thiscount.Theancestorsoftoday'sBahuns era, they have been at the forefront of the
have known of no other home, no other
country, other than Nepal. 44 . HIMAL Mar/Apr 1994
Neither can Bahuns become outsiders
The 12 federal provinces proposed for constitution. There might not be divided and bitterly feuding lot in Nepal.
Nepal by the Nepal Janajati Party areas instant gratification, but the road ahead For thisreason, if not forany other, Bahun
follows: is more certain. intellectuals can never produce a united
: Khasan Jadan Most Bahuns do not see the communal front, or inculcate a minority
problem of the Nepali State in terms syndrome among their lot. Bahuns have a
Magrat Tamuwan of Brahmanism. In fact, they are more
".,■;■■■;■■■ Tambasailing Nepal far greater stake in looking outward and
in competition with each other than away from Brahmanism than turning
Khambuwan Limbuwan with others. This has made them the
Cochilla Maithil inwards.
most In all matters of national life, the
Bhojpuri Abadhi
logical conclusion of linking every evil of
the day with Brahmanism with Bahuns
The Federal Republic of Nepal were the dismantling of Brahmanism, it
struggle to end despotic ruleand usher would also come part and parcel with the
in democracy. It is also true to say that dismantling of the Nepali State. Such an
Bahuns as a caste enjoyed less favour eventuality would notbe of benefit to the
in the exercise of real political power ethnicgroups of Nepal, regardless of how
in the Panchayat system because of much they may have been disad vantaged
their greater proclivity for social by Brahmanism in the past?
change and democratic polity by It would not do any one any good to
and large. threaten to revert to animism and tribalism
Today, one can find Bahuns in only to spite Bahuns. If these cultural
every part of the political and traits as national heritage have intrinsic
ideological spectrum. Within their merit, there is no reason why they should
ranks, there are conservatives, liberals, not be reinvigorated. But in the march
monarchists, republicans, socialists, towards progress, our steps should lead
Marxists, Maoists, extremists and us not towards parochial cultural
anarchists. Neither is there indication regression but towards greater
that Bahuns are concentrated more modernisationofour values andlifestyles.
towards the conservative end of this ideo- Only in this way can economic prosperity,
logical spectrum. They are represented in social justice and the fulfilling of political
substantial proportions in all segments. urges be realised.
This is quite a radical transformation.
Traditional Brahmanism has been turned Making Sense
on its head. Is only a Bahun expected to respond to
For some ethnic leaders, however, this restrictive interpretation of Brahma-
Brahmanism is not dead. They do not nism, or should itbea matter of concern to
look at a Bahun for what he is or what he others as well? A balanced view on quest-
stands for, as long as he carries a ions of national unity and inter-ethnic
Brahmanic name and ancestry. When amity is of utmost importance. It is not as
scanning the hierarchies of national though nudging the country towards
political parties, they see Bahuns bitterness and chaos by playing the game
dominating everywhere. But it should be of ethnic brinkmanship is the only sign of
understood, firstly, that this very civilised living in the late'20th century.
ubiquitousness is proof that Bahuns as a The Bahun intelligentsia seems
group have forsaken all rigidities of caste somewhat nonplussed by developments.
and religion. In fact, with their versatility,
Bahuns provide the Nepali polity with
the possibilities of transitioning into a
more broad-based democracy.
But the political good fortune of
Bahuns cannot last forever. They might
be over-represented in the political parties
for the moment, but the high point of the
community as a whole is already past. As
politics evolves and progresses, and as
education spreads to all groups, making
them more aware and participatory, the
proportion of Bahuns in politics,
bureaucracy and academia can only shrink
to reflect their true proportion of the
population. For this New Nepal to come
about, ethnic groups must participate
whole-heartedly in the political process
defined by the new democratic
For itkno ws tha t Bahuns are no longer the
'sacred cows' they once were. Most
Bahuns are caught in the daily web of
living and have no time even to consider
the charges of exploitation and
discrimination being laid against them.
Others — the scholar, politician,
journalist and bureaucrat — respond to
this orchestrated din by talking
defensively or sounding needlessly
reconciliatory. The interest of all
thinking people, among the Janajati and
otherwise, should be towards greater
demo-cratisation, leading towards
speedier availability of social justice.
They should seek the elimination of past
economic and social disadvantages
suffered by the weaker and poorer
social groups. An acceptable political
strategy will have to be devised for
achieving a satisfactory solution, one
which remains within the democratic
process and does not do violence to the
concept of the Nepali State. Certainly,
those in the leadership who do
notunderstandtheneedforsuchastrategy
must be doomed to failure.
Politiciansandleadersof the political
parties, Bahun or otherwise, mustsquarely
face this agenda. At the same time, there
should notbe any short-term appeasement
of strident and opportunistic leadership.
There is the ever-present danger in
electoral politics that parties will indulge
in treating minority and regional groups
as mere vote banks rather than as parts of
the national mainstream.
Cultural pluralism is a fact of life in
Nepal today and preservation of cultural
identity comes partand parcel with human
rights. It would be hazardous for the
continued viability of the Nepali State, if
some leaders were to seek political identity
outside of political parties, and in terms of
cultural identity. It is not in the interest of
anyone to change Nepal from a unitary
state to a federal structure, which would
go against all the grains of national
identity. Such a structure is not in the
historical experience of the country, would
lay the seed of centrifugal tendencies, and
would be economically devastating for
all communities. Neither our political
reality nor our historical and political
conditions warrants such a devastating
departure.

P.R. Stiarma is a professor at the Centre for Nepal


and Asia Studies, Tribhuvan University and is a
longtime observer of Nepali society and culture.

Mar/Apr 1994 HIMAL . 45


Patrakar,if you want fighringmen,you told The Telegraph he had agreed to
get the Gorkhali lads. But for a country Malvinas, perhaps it is appropriate to repatriation after a lapse of eight years
that does not have much fight left in it convert the Army into an employment because he wanted "to test the ground
after the last hurrah at Falklands/ bureau, and hire Oldham Bengalis. realities in the Chittagong Hill Tracts".
The KhalidaZiagovernmenthad begun
Karma Gyatso, taking steps to evict illegal settlers from
commisioner and Chakma lands, he said. Another refugee
secretary of Sikkim, leader, however, was of the view that
believes that Nepal and the repatriation wasonly experimental.
Sikkim can both benefit "The Bangladeshis have cheated us on
from what he calls many previous occasions. Mere
"bilateral tourism". economic rehabilitation will not do and
Speaking to the the Bangladesh government will have to
Kathnumdu Post concedeourpolitical rights." Despite the
recently, Gyatso The Nagaland government has just fanfare and Hindi-Bangla bhai-bhai
referred to the need for joint tour earmarked IRs 6 million to be spent this bonhommie at the Feni river crossing,
packages as well as a Kathmandu- year under an Integrated Watershed therefore, it is clear that solution to the
Bagdogra airlink, particularly during Management Programme. The main Chakma refugee question is fraught
peak season. According to the report, goal of the scheme, reports PTI, is "to with uncertainty.
the ease of obtaining Innerline permits lure away farmers from the existing
has led to a 125 percent increase in practice of ala sh and bu m and to replace it On 22 February, Bhutan celebrated the
foreign tourist arrivals in Sikkim over by more scientific terrace cultivation." The 400th birth anniversary of Shabdrung
the past year. Gangtok now has 50 travel Programme is to promote orchard s lower Ngawang Naragyal, the great unifier of
agencies and 200 hotels. Echoing down, and do "social forestry" in the the Bhutanese state. While the
sentiments of the administrators in higher reaches of the hill state. Bhutanese media would not see fit to
neighbouring Bhutan, Gyatso says his Somehow, it seems, we have heard all mention it, do let us give a moment's
government is aware of the problems this before, elsewhere in the Himalaya, thought to the Shabdrung's present
Nepal is facing with mass tourism and further west. Integrated hill reincarnation as he counts beads, with a
that it plans to enforce safety measures development, plans to make full complement of Indian security,
such as campsite identification, kerosene populations give up traditional somewhere in Himachal Pradesh.
depots, and back-trash regulations, agriculture, cash cropping, mono- Meanwhile, are we to believe reports of
Sikkim hopes to base its tourism on culture, and a self-confidence among some restlessness among the Sarchopa of
adventure packages, fiora and fauna, bureaucrats and planners that they are on eastern Bhutan, who, incidentally, are
and its over 300 monasteries. the right track... Well, as someone said said to revere the Shabdrung more than
recently, one has just got to do what one the Ngalung of the west?
If Sikkim is gearing up to meet the has got to do, even Nagaland.
tourist onrush, Darjeeling district is The frequency with which Nar Bahadur
dusting off its old attractions and The Chakmas are the only refugees in Bhandariis having to putout brushfires
adding new elements of adventure South Asia who are presently in the within his much-pampered state is
tourism. The Darjeeling Gorkha Hill process of being repatriated, and they worthy of note. The latest was when the
Council is waking up to the travel trade, if seem none too happy about it. The first Army had to be called out in Gangtok
one is to go by the full page ad taken in batch of 450 tribals crossed over to the after a revolt by some State policemen
the Calcutta Telegraph of 10 March by the Chittagong Hill Tracts over the Feni who were protesting ruling party
DGHC's Department of Tourism. While river bridge one morning in mid- (Sikkim Sangram Parishad)'s
Sikkim plans to reap dollars from the February. There were coloured interference in police administration.
foreign tourist, Darjeeling seems quite shamianas, and ministers in them, to Pawan Kumar Chamling, who has
content with desi greens. giye the event a festive air, and enough emerged as the most serious challenger to
Hindi-Bangla bhai-bhai bonhomie. Bhandari yet, is clamouring for
The year of the Great Handover, 1997, However, wrote Satyabrata Chakra- President's Rule. In an interview with
looms large not only for Hong Kong borty in The Statesman, "The signs of The Telegraph's Keshav Pradhan,
residents, but also for the British confusion are writ large on the faces of Bhandari was not about to give even an
Gurkhas, whose numbers are supposed to most of the camp inmates." Few inch. The opposition, he said, "is
bottom out at 2500 that year. While the returnees believe the Dhaka Govern- nothing but a pack of corrupt and
Nepali lads are laid off, this ment's "categorical promise" to provide rejected people" that relies on Delhi,
apparently does not mean that the security and restore tribal lands, he Jyoti Basu or RAW (the Research and
proportion of Asians in the British Army is said. Upendralal Chakma, President of Analysis Wing). On the merger of
going down. The new South Asian daily the Tribal Refugee Welfare Association, Sikkim with India:"! regard themerger as
Asian Age reports that the British Army a fait accompli... I raise objections only
and the Department of Employment about the injustices meted out to us by
have decided to tackle high the Indian government, not by India asa
unemployment among Asians in country." Question one: why did he reject
Lancashire by conducting a recruitment the lagadamba Shree prize
drive. The drive will focus on the town of
Oldham, which has a large Bengali
community. Which led a leading Asian
academic at Hull University to point out
that Bengalis do not have a military
tradition. The way it looks to Chhetria
46 HIMAL . Mar/Apr 1993
Will someone call a halt on autonomous
hill councils? The Indians have taken
after it as a fashion. With the Ladakh
awarded him by a Kathmandu-based Hill Development Council and the
trust a year ago for "lifelong service to DarjeelingGorkhaHillCouncilalready
the Nepali language"? Question two: in the bag, more autonomous entities
why did he this year decide that he are popping up, this time in the Indian
would accept the prize, after all? Northeast. Didyouknowthatthereis a
Perhaps a need to pump up popularity Khasi Hills Autonomous District
at home base. Council, which held peaceful polls in
earlyMarch?TheMizoram government
is expected to negotiate an agreement
All Hindus know of the special with the underground Hmar People's
properties of the waters of the Ganga, Convention for setting up of the
which supposedly putrefy only with Singlung Autonomous Hill Develop-
the greatest difficulty. A recent head lire ment Council, covering the northern
in theCSE-Down to Earth Feature Service part of that state. At the center of the
indicated that the mystery had been subcontinent, Madhya Pradesh too is Nepalis havealways been proud about
solved. Instead, the article has only setting up autonomous councils with the role played by Princess Bhrikuti in
reconfirmed the kimbadanti without full financial powers for its tribal areas. taking Buddhism up to Tibet. Well,
adding any substance. A Roorkee Chief Minister Digvijay Singh appa- what will Nepali nationalists (who so
University scientist told CSE that the rently believes that giving tribals greater oftep double as Beijing apologists when
miracle of the Ganga waters must be independence in managing their own it comes to Tibetan autonomy) have to
ascribed to "yet-to-be described affairs will help "dilute demands" for say about the following? The scholar \
microbes" which has "phenomenal complete statehood. Aha. Jamyaifg Norbu reports in the Tibetan
capacity to treat large amounts of Review of December 1993 that, in
organic wastes dumped into it". Better rewriting traditional Tibetan works to
luck next time. Till then, we will In a Tegion that seems to attract mostly conform to the Chinese interpretation
continue to use the filter. anthropologists and development of history, the Tibetan opera The Chinese
consultants, it is good to see the rise of Princess and the Nepali Princess (of King
scholars interested in Himalayan Songtsen Gampo), the inconvenient
The Nepal-Bhutan Joint Committee archaeology. "Ruins of an Early Gurung
on resolving refugee issue met in Nepali princess (Bhrikuti) has been
Settlement" by Mark Temple in the completely excised from the story. The
Thimphu and once again made "steady European Bulletin of Himalayan Research
progress". Pregnant silence on the opera is now called Princess Wen
is a report on an ancient Gurung village Cheng, after the Chinese princess. Wen
details. Not hard at all to guess who at Khola Songbre, north of the present-
stalled. The continuing marvel is how Cheng was married off to the
day Gurung heartland in central Nepal. conquering Tibetan King as a peace
the Nepali side has been completely Temple concludes that the ruins at
unable to utilise the possibilities of one offering, butthe Chinese cadres in Tibet
Khola Songbre supports current views
word — 'diplomacy1. Does the world firmly believe that Tibet became
about the origins of the Gurungs —
know that there are as many' which is that their ancestors moved "enlightened" because of Wen Cheng.
Lhotshampa refugees as there are down from the high mountains of Let the Nepali hearts bleed a bit for
Tibetan refugees? The endangered western China tosettleinasinglevillage their lost princess.
black-necked crane, which winters in beyond the Himalayan divide before
Druk Yul, probably has higher name- dispersing into different sett lementsin This one must have seemed awfully
recognition than the Lhotshampa the south, (see Himal, Jul/Aug 1993). proximate to Thimphu: a South Asian
refugees in the Jhapa plains. conferenceon hutna n ri gh ts organised
Here is an organisation that all much too close for comfort in Siliguri,
interested in the business of topsoil gateway to Bhutan and the Indian
If the Nepali Government does not seem northeast. Organised in mid-March by
to know the 'k' of kutniti-shastra, the loss, runoff, mudslips, landslides,
CLOFs and bishyaris should join. As the South Asian People's Commission
Tibetan Exile Government perhaps for Human Rights, the Conference
knows too much of it. That might be noted in the journal Asia-Pacific Uplands,
it is the International Erosion Control included leading civil rights activists
what led it to place all its cards on the V.M. Tarkunde, Nandita Haksar, N.
table back in May 1988 when in Association, whose growing
membership includes more than 700 Pacholi, and parliamentarian George
Strasbourg the Dalai Lama announced Fernandes. Human rights violations in
that complete independence was not a professionals, representing 15 fields of
expertise, from professors and the kingdom next door emerged as the
necessity. Unfortunately, Dharamsala dominant theme at the meet, which
has not made much headway with the consultants to manufactures, suppliers,
technocrats and civil engineers. also did not neglect other burning issues
only place where it matters — Beijing. such as continuing President's Rule in
Faced with continuous Chinese Himalayan professionals, should they
join, could easily make up the quorum Maldives, human rights in Kashmir,
stonewalling of his overtures, in early and the military's power in Pakistan,
March, the Dalai Lama'issued a and control the organisation! Contact:
statement admitting "complete failure" Box4904, Steamboat Springs, CO80477.
- Chhetria Patrakar
of his years of effort at moderation. So
what card does he have to play, other
than continuing reliance on the West? Mar/Apr 1994 HIMA
Abominably Yours,
* We have had to cut the column off because the writer did not keep to the assigned word-length. migrated across land-bridges to settle
If the columnist is nice to us, we might carry the remaining portion in the next issue. — EDITORS. down in Central Java. Just as well
organisms like Sutomato was thick-headed, otherwise
Slobodan Milosevic and his skull would never have survived
Saloth Sar represent two million years of fossilhood to have
the pinnacles of the good fortune of being carbon-dated.
creation on this planet. Our genealogical charts show numerous
Early primates other more deserving ancestors who
are suddenlyJJig News. were never done the honours.
After my last column As for the Lumbasumba branch of
Late yesterday afternoon, I was relaxing on the little known African migrants, it remained on terra
on the large boulder by the lateral sub-species of firma although the terra was never
moraine below Camp II, enjoying the Homo obfuscatus, Time magazine again very firma on Mainland Asia,
freezing late-spring foehn that was featured Cousin Erectus squinting from what with construction already begun
whipping up from the valley. It was a its cover of 14 March. The article related on the Himalaya. Our ancestors were
quiet and introspective moment, the the tale of the Java Man being actually a uplifted together with the mountains,
kind in which one does not want, for million years older than previously which were being carefully modelled as
example, to read a magazine that insists thought. Well, had the reporter bothered the Great Northern Yardstick to
on making you think deep thoughts to check with me, I would have opened Measure the Earth.
about issues. As I lay there on the rock, if up our genealogical records. And to cut a very, very long story
you had happened to ask me, I would Following is an excerpt from an short, we are still up here, being
have said, "No, sir, at this time I do not entry by our venerable ancestor, uplifted another couple of inches every
feel like meeting gene mappers from the Lumbasumba, datelined Shores of year, writing columns, receiving hate in
Human Genome Project." Tethys, 15 SCOA (15 Solar Cycles Out of the e-hulak, and entertaining ninjas
You guessed it. My idyll was Africa): from the Human Genome Project.
destroyed. Scientists from the Human <* According to my
Genome Project, part of that five billion "Earthquakes rumbled below our feet, visitors, after the
dollar exercise to map human and shards of pre-Cambrian rock pushed hominoid and human
chromosomes, had come sniffing up the themselves out of the sand. This was,
genes are all
Upper Barun looking, they said, for the serious upliftment going
lost tribe of hominoids. on. Obviously, the
I knew all about these Gene Ninjas. subcontinent was
They have been touring the world thrusting deeper into the
pretending to be primary health care Asian bodypolitk. The
providers, drawing blood and saliva Chheparo-saurus,
samples from untainted natives. They equipped with seismic
have already done the Hottentots and sensors, was emitting
the Ifugao, who willingly laid down warning chirps.
their veins for the future of humankind. Sutomato's clan, which
had accompanied us for
Since I really, have nothing against
15 years in the Great
humankind, except when it acts prissy, I
Trek from the Rift Valley,
too donated my blood (and with it my
panicked and. wanted to
unique genetic heritage) to the Jurassic
set off right away in the
Park attendants. These gnomes from
catamarans despite the
Genome knew that locked within my mapped, there will be
fear of a tidal surge. I told Sutomato not to
nail dippings and dandruff is the no limit to the per-
be a toad, his boats would be crushed by
elusive genetic bridge that links the tsunami. He wouldn't listen, the hard- mutation of transgenic
Neanderthal Man and Michael Jackson. headed dork. We waved out as the organisms that can be
It is the very desire to piece outriggers paddled off in the direction of prefabricated through
together the precise genetic code of the Andamans, and that is the last we ever recombinant DNA
humans, after all, that sets humans apart saw of them..." techniques. Friends,
— a consciousness and curiosity about this is the Second
their own species which is absent in Genesis. Already,
cockroaches and rhododendrons. So I Lumbasumba would have been scientists have grafted, don't ask me
was not unexcited to be part of a project glad to know (or maybe on this my why, the genes of fireflies to the tobacco
that would finally help unravel the venerable ancestor would have plant so that the leaves glow at night.
secret molecular arrangement that made preferred to remain neutral — I have no Laboratory rats that were spliced with
way of verifying) that Sutomato the genes of human males promptly
48 HIMAL . Mar/Apr 1994 survived the journey across the Bay of began research on weapons of mass
Bengal. He landed in Borneo and destruction, indulged in hostile
takeovers, and showed a propensity for
sexual harassment in the workplace.
I am not

making any of this up.


What I am making up
is the following. If
junkiris can have lung
cancer and *
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