International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010, 32, 1–8
Review Article
Lipopeptides in cosmetics
M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith
School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiangrai, Thailand
Received 6 January 2009, Accepted 30 June 2009
Keywords: biosurfactant, fengycin, iturin, lipopeptides, surfactin
Synopsis
Lipopeptides are biosurfactants extensively used in
cosmetics. The consumption of cosmetics containing
lipopeptides is increasing as a result of the excep-
tional surface properties and diverse biological
activities of lipopeptides which facilitate a vast num-
ber of applications not only in the pharmaceutics
industry which includes cosmetics but also in the
food industry. Cosmetics containing lipopeptides are
available in various dosage forms according to their
beneficial surface properties, which include anti-
wrinkle and moisturizing activities and cleansing
cosmetics. The microbial production of lipopeptides
particularly those with biological and surface activi-
ties applicable to cosmetics are summarized based
on appropriate studies and patents up to the year
2008 to manage the information and sufficiently
review the data.
Résumé
Les lipopeptides sont des tensioactifs biologiques
largement utilisés dans les produits cosmétiques.
Grâce à leurs propriétés de surface, l’utilisation des
lipopeptides est en augmentation. De plus, leurs
activités biologiques diverses permettent un grand
nombre d’applications dans l’industrie pharmaceu-
tique, les produits cosmétiques mais également
l’industrie alimentaire. Les produits cosmétiques
contenant des lipopeptides existent sous différentes
formes et bénéficient de leurs propriétés en terme
Correspondence: Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, School of
Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiangrai,
57100, Thailand. Tel.: +66 53 916834; fax: +66 53
916831; e-mail: nattayal@mfu.ac.th
ª 2009 The Authors. Journal compilation
ª 2009 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00543.
de produits anti rides, hydratants et nettoyants. La
production des lipopeptides par microbiologie est
ici résumée en particulier pour ceux utilisés en
cosmétique pour leurs propriétés tensioactives ou
biologiques. Cette synthèse s’appuie sur les études,
les brevets et les données publiées jusqu’en 2008.
Introduction
Biosurfactants obtained from micro-organisms are
extensively used in cosmetics as a result of their
exceptional surface properties [1–5]. These com-
pounds are also environmentally friendly and are
easily biodegraded, have low toxicity, are ecologi-
cally acceptable and are available from renewable
sources [4–6]. Their natural origin is particularly
important in the current trend and great
acceptance [7] for natural cosmetics [8] and the
commercial production of these cosmetics is rising
[9–12].
Biosurfactants were originally classified into
seven classes consisting of glycolipids, lipopeptides,
phospholipids, fatty acids, neutral lipids, polymeric
and particulate compounds respectively [13] and
have recently been categorized into only four main
classes which are glycolipids, lipopeptides, phos-
pholipids, fatty acids and polymeric compounds
[14].
Lipopeptides are a class of biosurfactants which
possess remarkable surface properties and are used
in a wide variety of applications including cosmet-
ics, and their consumption is close to glycolipids
[2, 3, 12]. Lipopeptides are amphiphilic cyclic pep-
tides composed of ten or seven amino acids.
Fengycin has ten amino acids, iturin and surfactin
have seven amino acids respectively [15, 16] and
1
Lipopeptides in cosmetics M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

are bonded with b-hydroxy fatty acids which are

arranged in linear (n), iso and anteiso forms [17]
as shown in Fig. 1. A common micro-organism
which produces lipopeptides is Bacillus subtilis
which was first reported to secrete surfactin in
1968 [18]. The characteristic name of this macro-
lide lipopeptide [17] clearly refers to its surface
properties. Among these biologically active lipo-
peptides [16, 18–25], surfactin is the predominant
biosurfactant and has received considerable atten-
tion with regard to its excellent surface properties
[26, 27] as well as its safety characteristics, and
has not only been used for pharmaceutical pur-
poses [28, 29] but has also been used in food
applications [30].
This review focuses on the surface properties of
lipopeptides in the surfactin, iturin and fengycin
families in an attempt to interest those involved
in cosmetic formulation presenting alternative
powerful natural surfactants and widen the
choice of surfactant selection. We outline the uti-
lization of lipopeptides in cosmetic formulations
and their various claimed efficacies. Microbial for-
mation of biosurfactants is briefly addressed as
informative reviews [26, 27, 30, 31] have
already been presented. The relevant literature
and patents were reviewed up to the year 2008
to manage the data and sufficiently review the
information.
O
O actant identified [59] as it has excellent surface
Glu
C Leu
Microbial formation of lipopeptides
The lipoheptapeptide surfactin was originally pro-
duced by B. subtilis [18] and was later found in a
wide variety of Bacillus sp. including at least 20
strains [26] e.g. B. licheniformis and B. amylolique-
faciens [23], with increasing identification of lipo-
peptides producible strains [32, 33]. The additional
properties of thermo, halo, pH and alkaline stability
[34–38] enabling the formulation of a wide variety
of cosmetic dosage forms. Factors which influenced
production, for example, pH, an incubation temper-
ature and an inoculum size as well as the optimized
ratio of carbon and nitrogen (3, 9 and 15) with prep-
aration methods have previously been extensively
studied and informatively presented [14, 36–48].
Furthermore, the biosynthesis of lipopeptides made
progress by genetic engineering technologies
[5, 12, 49, 50] enabling sufficient production of
this biomass. In addition to lipopeptides produced
from Bacillus sp., lipopeptides are also produced
from Pseudomonas sp. [51] and Arthrobacter sp.
[52]. However, B. subtilis is the most suitable eco-
nomic source which is extensively proposed in the
literatures [42, 53–56]. Furthermore, patents have
been filed on the production of lipopeptides from
this species [54–58].
Surface properties of lipopeptides
Surfactin was claimed to be the most active biosurf-
Asn properties which lowered the surface tension of
C D Tyr

H2C D Leu H2C D Asn water from 72 to 27.9 mN m)1 [18]. With regard
to continuous research on surfactin, it has been
R HC Val R HC Gln
reported that surfactin lowered the surface tension
O Asp HN Pro to a range of 26.7–54.4 mN m)1 [26, 32, 36, 38,
Leu D Leu Ser DAsn
(A) (B) 42, 43, 45, 47, 53, 60, 61] with an interfacial
tension of 0.36–34 mN m)1 at the critical micelles
Glu concentration (CMC) of 1–240 lM [18, 32, 38,
D Allo Thr D Ala or D Val
OH O 60–66]. The surface properties depended on the
D Orn
Tyr Pro bulk concentration and hydrophobic character of
R C C
Glu
the alkyl chain [67] incorporated in the presenting
O Gln
CH3 amino acids [33]. Regiospecificity of optically active
Ile D Tyr
(C) amino acids, particularly leucine, in the structure of
surfactin characterizes an amphiphilic nature and
H3 C H3 C surfactant properties [68, 69].
CH(CH2)n CH(CH 2)n
The mechanism of action is governed by surface
R = CH3(CH2)n or H3 C or H3CH2C
properties and biological activities [51, 61, 70–76]
( n) (iso) (anteiso)
and is obviously regulated by the chemical structure
Figure 1 Primary structure of surfactin (A), iturin (B) of lipopeptides. The horse saddle topology of the
and fengycin (C). lipopeptide structure is responsible for its properties

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2 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 1–8
Lipopeptides in cosmetics M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

[16, 26, 77, 78]. Membrane destabilization is a key
mechanism of action of surfactin. A conformational
change in the peptide chain facilitates hydrophobic
interaction which leads to penetration of the
membrane by surfactin [60, 79, 80]. Adequate
penetration may occur at low concentrations
(» 20 lmol L)1) and surfactin may be completely
miscible with the phospholipids forming mixed
micelles [81]. Although haemolytic activity consti-
tutes a drawback for medical applications [76], a
suitable lipopeptide structure varied in chain length,
amino acid sequence and molecular weight delin-
eated the efficiently designed delivery system which
confers the mechanism towards the target [73] and
expected functions.
Application of lipopeptides in cosmetics
Surfactin seems to be the most effective lipopeptide
known in terms of fundamental dynamic and equi-
librium interfacial properties [62], and has excel-
lent foaming properties compared with sodium
dodecyl sulphate and bovine serum albumin [82,
83]. Moreover, low CMC values of biosurfactants
consequently exhibit benefits over synthetic surfac-
tants [84, 85]. Lipopeptides were used as emulsifi-
ers [54] and were claimed to have low skin
irritation suitable for external skin preparations
such as transparent cosmetics with a sequestering
function [86]. A low CMC property in biosurfac-
tants is particularly suitable for topically applied
dermatological products [87] and the low cytotox-
icity towards mammalian cells confirmed the
safety of these compounds [88]. The major appli-
cation for lipopeptides has been in anti-wrinkle
cosmetics [89, 90] and cleansing products such as
the Japanese company highly supplies surfactin
derivative into cosmetic industry. Cleansing cos-
metics containing lipopeptides exhibit excellent
washability with extremely low skin irritation
[91]. In addition, lipopeptides were claimed to
have activity towards T lymphocytes [92] and
they were used to deliver an a-melanocyte stimu-
lating hormone into target cells [93] including an
application in whitening cosmetics as there was
skin preparation comprising tocopherol derivative
and ascorbic acid derivative with lipopeptides
[94] with antimicrobial activity suitable for the

Table I Surface and biological properties and cosmetic applications of lipopeptides in several dosage forms

Sources Bacillus sp. [23, 26, 32–48, 53, 60–65]

Pseudomonas sp. [51]
Arthrobacter sp. [52]
Surface tension 26.7–54.4 mN m)1 [26, 32, 36, 38, 42, 43, 45, 47, 53, 60, 61]
Interfacial tension 0.36–34 mN m)1 [18, 32, 38, 60–66]
CMC 1–240 lmol L)1
Biological activities Antiviral [22]
Antifungal [22, 25, 47]
Antimicrobial [58, 95–97]
Fibrin clot formation inhibition [18]
Protoplastbursting [19]
Antitumour [20]
Mosquito larvicidal [24]
T lympocyte activating [92]
a-melanocyte stimulating carrier [93]
Antimycoplasma [98]
Lipopolysaccharide inhibition [108, 109]
Applications Emulsifier [54]
Foaming agent [82, 83]
Sequestering agent [86]
Anti-wrinkle product [89, 90]
Cleansing [91]
Whitening [94]
Moisturizing [94, 95]
Dosage form Liposome [93]
Emulsion [101–103]
Gel [104–106]
Foam [107]

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 1–8 3
Lipopeptides in cosmetics
treatment and prevention of microbial infections
[58, 95–97] in several preparations [98, 99].
These biological activities show the potential for
pharmaceutical applications of lipopeptides [100]
and facilitate their formulation in several dosage
forms which include oil in water emulsions [101,
102] with a water-thin surface [103] for skin care
cosmetics. Skin moisturizing and cleansing cosmet-
ics have been prepared in oily gel [104, 105] with
high stability [106]. In addition to these dosage
forms, a cosmetic foam composition was invented
[107] as well as liposomes [93].
In addition to lipopeptides as the active ingredi-
ents in anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and cleansing
cosmetics, their broad spectrum of activities against
bacteria and fungi [23] have revealed an alternative
application in potential product preservation. Fur-
thermore, the interaction of surfactin with lipopoly-
saccharide [108] suppresses the transportation of
lipid [109] which might be useful for cellulite treat-
ment or for those who are trying to control their
body weight as lipopeptides have been shown to be
safe when administered orally [108].
Conclusions
Lipopeptides are biosurfactants produced by
micro-organisms from renewable sources, they are
non-toxic and inexpensive to produce and have
excellent surface properties and biological activities
suitable for cosmetic applications (Table I). Lipopep-
tides have good skin compatibility with low
irritation and can potentially be applied as a topical
dermatological product. The diversity of lipopeptide
activities outlines their importance as a multifunc-
tional cosmetic ingredient. The appropriate molecu-
lar weight, structure and vesicle design allows the
formulation of several dosage forms with different
activities. These alternative biosurfactants are
available for application in natural and organic
cosmetics with significant and selectable functions.
Acknowledgement
The authors acknowledge Mae Fah Luang Univer-
sity for the facility support in the manuscript prep-
aration.
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