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J Ethn Foods 4 (2017) 221e231

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Journal of Ethnic Foods


journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net

Review Article

Past and present practices of the Malay food heritage and culture in
Malaysia
Mohd Nazri Abdul Raji a, b, Shahrim Ab Karim b, *, Farah Adibah Che Ishak b,
Mohd Mursyid Arshad c
a
Family and Consumer Science Department, Faculty of Technical and Vocational, Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris (UPSI), Tanjong Malim, Perak, Malaysia
b
Department of Food Service and Management, Faculty of Food Science and Technology, Universiti Putra Malaysia (UPM), Serdang, Selangor, Malaysia
c
Department of Professional Development and Continuing Education, Faculty of Food Educational Studies, Universiti Putra Malaysia (UPM), Serdang,
Selangor, Malaysia

a r t i c l e i n f o
Malay heritage varies from north to south; however, there are various similarities and differences.
Article history: Essentially, Malay heritage food is influenced by a myriad of cultures, such as Arab, Indian, Chinese,
Received 27 September 2017 Siamese, Javanese, Minangkabau, and others. Different regions in Malaysia are known for their unique or
Received in revised form signature dishes, such as beef rendang, laksa, nasi lemak, and tapai. Indeed, it is noted that Malay food is
31 October 2017 identical in terms of its spiciness. This can be seen from the prepreparation, methods of cooking, and
Accepted 1 November 2017 availability and use of prominent ingredients, such as local aromatic herbs and spices. This article
Available online 7 November 2017 highlights the regional Malay food, past and present practices of Malay food culture, and characteristics
of Malay food. In addition, this article also discusses the different occasions and table etiquette practices
Keywords: among Malay communities. The reported findings are expected to contribute to the literature on food
characteristic of Malay food
culture, specifically in Malay heritage food.
Malay cuisine
© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the
Malay food culture
Malay heritage food CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
regional Malay food

1. Introduction Labuan, the Bumiputera includes all the indigenous groups such as
Malay, Melanau, Dayak (including Iban, Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu),
Being a multiracial country, Malaysia has been well positioned Kadazan Dusun, Bajau, and other native ethnic groups as listed in
as a food paradise. The label is by no means a mere accident; Article 161A Federal Constitution [2].
however, it is due to the synergistic effect brought by the inter- Malays are the dominant ethnic group in this country, repre-
mingling of the various ethnic groups. In addition, the country is senting more than half of the nation's population. Typically, Malays
further enriched by culinary heritage it shares with neighboring are Muslims, speak the Malay language, and observe and
countries and regions. Amid rapid modernization, the country still practice the tradition of Malay culture [3]. Traditional cultural
manages to hold on to her proud heritage. As a result, Malaysia is practices in the Malay communities can be observed through their
one of the few places where one could find an amalgamation of food consumption. Traditionally, Malay food can be defined as va-
flavors and varieties of heritage food, which stands a living proof of rieties of food produced locally with a unique local identity within
the famous motto Malaysia, Truly Asia. the Malay community. The present study concentrates mainly on
In 2016, Malaysia consisted of population of 31.7 million, and the Malay food.
Bumiputera made up the majority of the population with 68.8%,
followed by Chinese at 23.4%, Indians at 7%, and others at 1% [1].
The Bumiputeras in Peninsular Malaysia are essentially the Malays. 2. The culinary history of Malaysia
Moreover, in the East Malaysian states of Sarawak, Sabah, and
Malaysia is a country separated by the South China Sea into two
regions: Peninsular Malaysia, which is also known as West
Malaysia, and East Malaysia, which is located in Borneo Island. It
* Corresponding author. Department of Food Service and Management, Faculty of
Food Science and Technology, Universiti Putra Malaysia (UPM), 43400, Serdang,
shares land borders with Thailand and Indonesia, and Singapore is
Selangor, Malaysia. linked to its south by a causeway. Malaysia is situated right above
E-mail address: shahrimkarim2@gmail.com (S. Ab Karim). the equator.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.11.001
2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/
licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
222 J Ethn Foods 2017; 4: 221e231

In the early 15th century, a small fishing village of Melaka on the


west coast of the Malay Peninsula began to grow into a significant
port [4]. Melaka was strategically positioned as a harbor and
boomed as a multicultural center. The local cooking was influenced
by the arrival of new food from abroad, including spices such as
cardamom, pepper, and clove and exotic vegetables. Arab traders
who arrived in Malacca around this period brought with them the
practices of Islam. In the middle of the 15th century, the Sultan of
Melaka converted to Islam [5]; there was increased trade with other
Muslim communities such as Indonesia and the Middle East, which
had a lasting effect on Malay cuisine. In the 15th century, Europeans
also started to venture to Southeast Asia in search of spices as well
as to expand their kingdom. The Portuguese were the first to arrive,
and they were later followed by the Dutch and English. The Euro-
peans not only sought spices but also introduced many new in-
gredients such as peanut, pineapple, avocado, tomato, squash, and
pumpkin to this region. The cultural landscape of the country
Fig. 1. Ayam percik. Traditional Malay grilled chicken served with percik sauce origi-
changed in the 19th century. Later, when Malaysia and Singapore nated from the east coast state of Kelantan. Its main ingredients are chicken, shallot,
were under the British colonial rule, the British brought in large garlic, lemongrass, asam keping, coconut milk, turmeric powder, and shrimp paste.
number of Indians and Chinese to work in the rubber estates and
tin mines, respectively. The influx of Indian and Chinese workers
had a strong influence on Malaysian culture, language, and food. [11] state that Kelantan and Terengganu have some similarities in
In 1963, the Federation of Malaysia was formed and comprised their traditional food; however, Kelantan food is sweeter than
the states of the peninsula combined with Sabah and Sarawak. Terengganu food. Scholar remarked that traditional curries of both
Malaysian cuisine is as varied as its people. The growth of Malaysia states use coconut milk, which gives a rich, thick, creamy consis-
into a central cultural melting pot is due to the contribution of tency, whereas their traditional desserts are sweet and their sa-
multiracial groups to Malaysia's great culinary heritage [6]. His- vories are slightly spicy [6].
torically, traditional Malaysian cuisine has been greatly influenced Indonesian cuisine has influenced the kitchen throughout the
by traders from the neighboring countries, such as Indonesia, India, Malaysian hinterland through migration, especially in the south
the Middle East, China, and Thailand. The Malaysian gastronomic and central regions of Malaysia. In the south, a large number of
products are a mix of various races, particularly Malays, Chinese, Javanese who settled there over the centuries influenced the Malay
Indians, and other ethnic groups. Acculturation and assimilation cuisine in the state of Johor. The influence of Javanese cuisine,
among these ethnic groups in the early 1970s have added to the which is sour, sweet, and spicy, can be clearly seen owing to the
potpourri of local food and beverages and created a Malaysian migration of the Javanese [9]. The influence by Minangkabau peo-
cultural and gastronomical heritage [6]. ple from West Sumatra living in Negeri Sembilan is reflected in its
food history [8]. Popular dishes such as rendang minang and masak
3. The regional Malay food lemak cili padi feature extensive use of thick coconut milk and
spices [7]. Melaka offers a variety of dishes, especially the Malay
Malay cuisine especially in Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, and cuisine in Melaka and the Malay-influenced Nyonya cuisineda
Brunei is similar because it came from the same root. Malay cuisine blend of Malay and Chinese cuisines. Besides, Melaka is also pop-
is usually halal. Malay cooking is very unique; however, it has been ular for its eastewest fusion cooking from the combination of
assimilated to other influences such Arab, Indonesian, Thai, Por- Malay and Portuguese cuisines [6]. A mix of the Malay and Indian
tuguese, Chinese, and Indian. Ainuddin [5] defined Malay food by cuisines created the Chitti food in Melaka, which is savored by the
five characteristics: (1) rich in herbs and spices; (2) coconut milk is Chitti community. In Perak and Pahang Rahman [12] acknowledged
one of the main ingredients; (3) usually spicy; (4) meat is usually gulai tempoyak and rendang as a few of signature traditional dishes
stewed with a thick gravy; and (5) fried fish and seafood are usually commonly served either for daily meals or during festival
seasoned with turmeric powder. celebrations.
According to Brissenden [7], Malay food emerged during the
13th century and continuously developed during the trading years, 4. Past and present practices of Malay food culture
where it was greatly influenced by Thailand and Indonesia. It can be
categorized based on the regions [8]. Given the history of Malaysia, The secret behind the uniqueness of authentic Malay food is the
it is understandable that in the northern states of Penang, Perlis, use of herbs and spices with special traditional equipment and
and Kedah (which are closer to Thailand), liking for fiery-hot spicy cooking methods. In the past, ingredients were mainly harvested
and sour flavors [9] is quite strong. In Penang, tamarind, sour from the backyard and the woods, which made the Malay cooking
carambola, and limes are used for tanginess, fragrance, and sour- such an interesting culinary experience. Forty years ago or around
ness and fiery-hot fresh bird's eye chilies, so often present in Thai 1970se1980s, the Malay community lived predominantly in rural
food, are also popular in the northern states [10]. Further east, the area and involved in agricultural activities, with only a small
cuisine of the state of Kelantan, which borders Thailand, and Ter- portion involved in the modern economic sector [13]. This is in line
engganu, which borders Kelantan, also shows distinct Thai influ- with the study conducted by Yoshino [14], who argues that the
ence [9]. The use of kaffir lime leaves, torch ginger, and mint leaves majority of Malay people were based in kampung (village) and
in rice dishes such as nasi kerabu, a popular Kelantan dish that engaged in agriculture before they migrated to other places. All the
bursts with green confetti of wild pepper leaves, basil, and daun related activities, employment, and culture started in the kampung
kesum (Vietnamese coriander), is another influence from Thai and was shared by the family and the rest of the Malay commu-
dishes [10]. Traditionally, nasi kerabu is served with ayam percik nities. In the modern era (from the time of its independence in
(grilled chicken with a spicy coconut milk sauce) (Fig. 1). Sharif et al 1957), a large percentage of middle-class Malay people are being
M.N.A. Raji et al / Malay kitchen essentials 223

employed in the government sectors, mostly as teachers and civil preparing Malay traditional food, which had to be continuous to
servants, mixing together with other ethnic groups [14]. encourage their children's participation.
Findings by Ismail et al [15] state that the development of Malay
rural cultural gardens in the past reveals its important intrinsic and
4.1. Traditional cooking equipment and tools
cognitive value through its functional characteristics such as pro-
vision of food, medicine, cosmetics, and shade. The basis of tradi-
In the past, a typical Malay kitchen was equipped with lesung
tional Malay gardens in the villages is to sustain the community.
batu (a mortar and pestle) and batu giling (a hand grinder made of
Plants and fruit trees are essential in the Malay society to support
stone) for preparing food [10]. A big lesung batu made of stone and
economically by providing food for family consumption and for
composed of two things, namely a mortar and pestle, is of particular
sharing with the community. Malay ancestors produced dishes and
value, as it is used for grinding spices, chilies, and shallots;
recipes using natural resources that grow in abundance around
pounding all the condiments and pastes; and for making kerisik
their houses. This is in accordance with Goffard [16] who explained
(pounded or ground fried grated coconut). The big stone slab of
in his book titled “The Language of East and Southeast Asia” that
batu giling where food is placed and ground is called the “mother”
traditionally, the Malay are village people, relying on fishing,
or ibu giling, and the rolling pin is called the “child” or anak batu
gardening, and rice cultivation. The availability of local resources in
giling, which is used to crush the ingredients [21] (Fig. 2). The use of
this country allows the creation of flavorful, delicious, unique, and
lesung batu and batu giling is believed to provide a unique taste to
authentic recipes [17].
the food, compared with the use of modern equipment such as
A study by Manderson [18] on the traditional food beliefs and
blender and food processor. The blender, for example, is said to only
life events, which focused on the practices of Malay villagers in a
grind the ingredients to a smooth texture, but it does not release
few states in Peninsular Malaysia, found that the Malay folks in the
the oils and flavors of the ingredients unlike the traditional stone
kampung still maintained the traditional beliefs and knowledge.
mortar, which pounds the ingredients uniformly. In Malaysia, many
This study was supported by Mohd Zahari [19] who studied Malay
people still prefer to use the stone mortar and pestle to pound wet
foodways in Malaysia. The traditional practices can be observed
and fresh ingredients such as shallots, onions, garlic, ginger, and
through the kenduri kahwin (matrimonial ceremonies), which in-
chilies because the ingredients would be more delicious when
volves preparation, cooking, serving, and the consumption of food
mixed together, yet it still requires effort and more preparation
and is considered as a communal affair in the village or kampung
time. The famous sambal belacan or shrimp paste sambal is claimed
when the individuals of the community contributes their time and
to taste better when made using the mortar and pestle instead of
energy in helping the wedding host. However, the traditional
using a electric blender [5]. It all depends on how the individual
foodways practice that has long been associated with the Malay
perceives the originality of the Malay traditional dishes.
society is hardly seen because of the spread of catering services,
Santan or coconut milk is used extensively in Malay cooking. The
especially in urban areas. Currently, it is hard to see the table ser-
classic way of obtaining coconut milk is by grating a mature coco-
vice style in the Malay weddings, which is replaced by the buffet
nut flesh. A little amount of water is added, and it is then squeezed
service style [19]. In this modern era, many have forgotten the
to extract the milk. Kukur kelapa or the coconut grater is a hand
uniqueness of cooking techniques and practices in Malay cuisine
grater with a spike-like metal fixed at the end of a low wooden
that our ancestors have passed on to us. According to Nor et al [20],
stool [22]. To grate the coconut, one has to sit on the stool and hold
the young generations have ignored the practices of Malay tradi-
one half of a coconut shell and grate the white coconut flesh against
tional food, which is being replaced by convenience food products.
the metal spike in an up-and-down motion [5]. Kukur kelapa is
The study also mentions that transition and unlimited information
seldom found in Malaysian homes nowadays. However, the electric
technology are believed to influence the changes in food intake and
coconut grater can be found in most provision shops or the wet
practices. Although modernization takes place in the foodways, the
values associated with other Malay customs that have been prac-
ticed by the family and the rest of the Malay community
remain until today.
In the traditional Malay practices, the man is the head of the
family, as well as the household, whereas the woman is a housewife
who concentrates on daily chores such as cooking, washing, and
taking care of children. The responsibilities of women are more
likely to hold strong attachment to the common beliefs, knowledge,
and practices of their customs in the Malay society. Previous studies
have described the characteristics of a Malay family regarding
household responsibilities of women and their families. Nor et al
[20] revealed that women have very strong adherence to beliefs
and good experience in transmission of food practice knowledge.
Findings from Nor et al [20] suggest that mothers are believed to
transmit Malay cooking knowledge, including the ingredients,
preparation, method of cooking, and cooking equipment, to their
daughters. The same study claimed that in modern days, some
daughters admitted that transmission of cooking knowledge still
occurs through telephone calls, especially in the early years of their
marriage, and this knowledge was further strengthened when the
daughters prepared food along with their mothers during festive
occasions, family gathering, or when the mother visits them [20].
Fig. 2. Batu giling is used to grind spices. This is a traditional grinder used by grandmas
This study emphasized that the role of a mother significantly in the past. Spices ground using this tool produce a different taste and flavor, which
contributed to the preservation of family and cultural tradition in cannot be achieved by other methods.
224 J Ethn Foods 2017; 4: 221e231

market. The head of an electric coconut grater is a round metal with method terminologies, which is an aspect of the language that was
sharp pine heads. It grates when the machine is on. To grate a co- created and used since olden days [11]. The use of terminologies
conut, the husk is removed and the hard shell is broken into 2 should be shaped by cultural transmission over many generations.
halves. The pulp of one half of the coconut is held against the meal
head at a time and the coconut is grated. A basin is placed under the 5. Characteristics of the Malay food
metal head to collect the grated coconut.
Another important element in the traditional Malay kitchen 5.1. Main dishes
design is dapur kongkong, which acts as a stove [23]. Dapur kong-
kong or the charcoal burning stove is similar to a desk and is made Almost every Malay main meal is served with rice, which is also
of a mixture of clay and salt. It consists of two parts: a sabak the staple food in many other Asian countries such as Indonesia,
(furnace) and two tungku (riser stone with a double horizontal iron Thailand, Brunei, and Philippines. The state of Kedah is considered
rod). Usually, this type of a Malay kitchen has the smell of firewood the rice bowl or jelapang padi of the country, accounting for about
and the haze from burning charcoal daily mingled with the aroma half of Malaysia's total production of rice. The staple food is non-
of pungent belacan, red chili, and garlic cooked together in massive glutinous rice, which has amylopectin content. In contrast, in the
heated woks. The kitchen area is cleaned and tidied up once the Malay culture, glutinous rice is used almost exclusively for making
cooking is done, and tikar mengkuang or a Pandanus mat is laid sweets. The rice is cooked simply by adding equal amount of water
while eating [23]. Leftover dishes are kept in the para or wooden (or more) to the rice (which also depends on the type of rice
cabinets with wire-mesh doors. Small tools are cleaned and kept in useddlong grain, short grain, Jasmine, or Basmati) and cooked
the para, whereas large equipment, such as a pan, pot, or kettle, is using an electric rice cooker at home or on a gas stove. Plain
kept in a store room where they are mounted on the pemidang steamed white rice is normally served with various side dishes of
dinding (wall stud) and alang (truss) with nails. Ideally, the kitchen protein and vegetables. A typical lunch includes one chicken or fish
serves as a place where all family members, especially the mother dish cooked with coconut or tamarind, fried fish, stir-fried vege-
and daughters have a talk, grind spices, stir pots, and observe tables, and sambal belacan. The most popular dish based on rice in
cooking methods. However, nowadays in Malaysia, dapur kongkong Malay culture is nasi lemak (steamed rice with coconut milk and
or the charcoal burning stove is no longer used in the kitchens of screwpine leaf). Nasi lemak is considered as the national dish and is
most households and has been replaced by modern equipment usually served during breakfast, but can also be served all day. It
such as gas stove and electric stove. The traditional equipment and becomes a daily food for many Malaysians (Fig. 3).
tools are hard to be found in the urban area and may only be used in Traditionally, nasi lemak is accompanied by anchovy sambal,
the rural area or villages, especially during Malay occasions such as boiled eggs, fried peanut, and a slice of cucumber. In the past, this
matrimonial ceremonies and Hari Raya Aidilfitri (a celebration day dish was a staple of the Malay community when they went out to
for Muslims). Nevertheless, firewood is still being used in tradi- work in the paddy fields or estates. The rice is cooked in coconut
tional cooking in parts of the country, especially in villages. The milk, and the accompaniments offered the calories that they
aroma of the food cooked using firewood is still in great demand needed for physical work [27]. Nasi lemak is often wrapped in ba-
and its very unique cooking methods are still being appreciated by nana leaves. When wrapping nasi lemak, a scoop or small bowl of
certain age groups within the Malay community. rice is placed in the center of the banana leaf. Then, a slice or two of
cucumber, half-boiled egg, fried anchovies, and anchovy sambal are
4.2. Cooking methods and techniques

Traditional cooking methods and techniques of Malay dishes


require few culinary tools, and most of the authentic dishes are
prepared from scratch. Martilla [24] argues that different cultures
tend to have their own unique methods of cooking, and each of
them has different terminology that often comes from historical
necessities. According to Rahman [12] and Ainuddin [5], various
terminologies of cooking methods are used in Malay cooking,
which are divided into dry heat and moist heat method. Besides
these two, there is also the combination method, which involves
both dry and moist heat. Examples of Malay cooking terminology
for dry heat methods are menumis (cooking paste, chili, or spices
using oil or fat in the wok over relatively high heat before adding it
to the main ingredients such as vegetable, fish, or meat), menyangai
(dry fried spices, peanut, or grated coconutdfrying without using
oil or fat in a small pan or wok over low heat), menyalai (the drying
process of meat, fish, or bananadsmoked or grilled food on the
fire), and melayur (pass something over the firedto use banana
leaves as a food wrapper, the banana leaves are run over the fire
until it is dark green to soften them so that it does not break when
folded) [25]. In the same study, Mohamad Abdullah et al [25] also
listed the Malay cooking method terminology for moist heat
methods, for example, menanak (cooking rice inside a pot), men-
jerang (boilingdput a kettle on to boil), mencelur (blanching or
dipping foods, such as vegetables, for a short period into the hot
water), and mereneh (simmering food). Meracik and memayang are Fig. 3. Nasi lemak wrapped in banana leaves. It is the most popular heritage food in
categorized as methods of cutting and simply mean thinly sliced Malaysia and a complete meal by itself, consisting of rice, chili sambal, hard-boiled egg,
[26]. The Malay society has numerous, vast, and valuable cooking fried anchovies, and sliced cucumbers.
M.N.A. Raji et al / Malay kitchen essentials 225

placed on top of the rice before wrapping. This method is practical Then, meat, seafood, and eggs can be added, which act as the main
as the parcel looks neat and is not messy. Apart from being envi- ingredient of the sambal.
ronmentally friendly, the banana leaf wrapping exudes a fragrant
aroma that enhances the appetite. Today, nasi lemak is also served 5.3. Vegetables
with many other dishes such as beef or chicken rendang, squid
sambal, stir-fried morning glory, fried eggs, and fried chicken. Malaysia is a country rich with flora and fauna, which forms a
During special occasions such as Eid al-Fitr (in Arabic) or Hari perfect food chain for the local people since ancient times. In the
ing onion, garlic, ginger,
Raya Aidilfitri, the rice is prepared by saute Malay culture, natural resources are fully used in the preparation of
and other spices and then cooked with water to make nasi minyak healthy and well-balanced food. The creativity of the Malay com-
or ghee rice. Besides nasi minyak, other popular rice-based dishes, munity in diversifying the natural sources is evident in the
such as nasi beriani (rice cooked with chicken/meat stock and assortment of interesting recipes, some of which are still passed
special spices), nasi kunyit (glutinous rice soaked in turmeric and down from one generation to another. Ulam is one of the famous
steamed with coconut milk), ketupat (rice or glutinous rice cooked traditional vegetables used by the Malay people in Malaysia.
in woven coconut leaves), and lemang (glutinous rice with coconut Traditionally, ulam is from a young tender shoot, called pucuk, and
milk cooked in bamboo tubes), are served during this festival. immature leaves of wild plants and is usually found growing wild in
the countryside. According to Mansor [30], more than 120 ulam
5.2. Protein species can be found in Malaysia, representing various families,
from shrubs to large trees. The leaves, shoots, or rhizomes of the
Rice is served with a variety of side dishes or lauk. These consist vegetables are eaten fresh as salad or cooked.
of protein-based foods, such as meat, fish, and eggs, including Ulam is consumed because of its taste, which adds variety and
processed foods. The Malays being Muslims, the types of flavors to the diet, as well as for its nutritional benefits [31]. The
meat eaten are beef, buffalo, goat, lamb, and also poultry and fishes/ taste of ulam is based on the type and variety, and some has
seafood. Muslims consider that their flesh and blood are formed bittersweet taste. Nutritional studies have indicated that many of
from the food that they consume; consequently, careful consider- these vegetables are rich in carbohydrates, protein, minerals, and
ation is given to the food chosen for consumption [28]. Halal food is vitamins [32]. Some ulam is also claimed and traditionally believed
permitted, and with the exception of pork and its by-products, to have medical properties, such as blood cleansing, induction of
most meat and vegetables are deemed as acceptable. Sometimes, uterine cleansing, induction of uterine contractions, and prevention
halal foods appear the same as other food; they are differentiated or cure of ailments such as diabetes, high blood pressure, cardio-
by the nature, processing, ingredients, handling, and slaughtering vascular disease, arthritis, fever, and coughs. In addition, according
technique [29]. Various meats could be made into gulai, a type of to Abas et al [31], it is also believed that ulam plays an important
curry dish made by cooking various spice mixtures in coconut milk. role in reducing the incidence of cancer, as well as control of aging
This cooking method is influenced by the Indians and was adopted and age-related diseases. The most common ulam varieties
by Malay people since ancient times; it shows the assimilation of consumed by Malay communities include daun pegaga, daun selom,
culture in the Malay cuisine. Generally, Malay curries are not very ulam raja, pucuk gajus, pucuk ubi kayu, daun kaduk, daun putat, and
thick and are less pungent than Indian curries. pucuk gajus.
Another meat-based and equally spicy dish is rendang (it is like a The Malay people also creatively incorporate fruits and vege-
stew, but relatively dry, cooked in coconut milk with spices for tables into their dishes, for example, jantung pisang (banana
several hours and can be stored for a long term); it was influenced blossom), nangka muda (young/green jackfruit), nanas muda (un-
by Indonesian cuisine and adapted to Malay taste and flavor. ripe pineapple), betik muda (unripe papaya), and pisang muda
Rendang is served during special occasions such as weddings and (young banana). Kerabu jantung pisang (types of salad or appetizer)
Hari Raya Aidilfitri. Every state and village in Malaysia has its own is prepared by blanching jantung pisang (the best variety is from
version of rendang, and it is difficult to claim any particular right for pisang awak) in boiling water for a few minutes and then mixing it
rendang. Rendang is made from various types of meat, but it can also with coconut milk, chili shrimp paste, shallot, dried prawn, and
be prepared from seafood and various vegetable shoots. Two types bird's eye chili. Unripe fruits are cooked as vegetables in curries to
of rendang that are most popular among Malay communities are enhance the flavor. Other famous traditional vegetables used by
rendang minang (it is usually very spicy with the use of bird's eye Malay people are petai (twisted cluster bean or stinky bean) and
chilies) and rendang tok (it is dark and sweet because of the use of jering (black pods, including seeds), which are cut up or snapped off
more coconut milk besides the roasted coconut, and is usually into a one-seeded portion and eaten raw with the shrimp paste
cooked together with sliced coconut flesh). sambal. In many rural areas or kampung, authentic vegetables such
Sambal (hot sauce) is one of the popular side dishes among the as rebung and umbut are commonly prepared as specialty foods in
Malay, typically made from dried chilies as the main ingredient kenduri kahwin (matrimonial ceremonies). Rebung is young tender
which are combined with secondary ingredients such as onion, shoots of some species of bamboo, whereas umbut is the massive
garlic, and other meat or seafood items, such as beef, chicken, but sweet and tender tissue of the growing tip or the heart removed
shrimp, and squid. Traditionally, sambal is freshly made using from a palm after it is cut and used as food. The common one is the
traditional tools such as a pestle and mortar. Sambal can be served umbut kelapa, derived from the coconut palm. Rebung and umbut
either raw or cooked. Basically, this food is influenced by the are normally cooked in coconut milk, and are called as masak lemak
Indonesian cuisine of the Javanese, and some alterations were among the Malay communities (Fig. 4).
made to suite the local taste. Raw sambal types popular among
Malay communities, such as sambal belacan (fresh chilies pounded 5.4. Special ingredients
together with toasted shrimp paste) and sambal tempoyak (fresh
chilies pounded with fermented durian flesh), can be easily found The uniqueness of Malay heritage food is due to the ingredients,
in most Malay warung (hawker food stall) and restaurants. In flavor, and aroma. Many aromatic ingredients, including spices,
contrast, cooked sambal is prepared by saute ing pounded in- which are understood to be dried products, are used. However, in
gredients (dry chili, shallot, and garlic) with oil until fragrant, and Malay traditional food, several of the ingredients are freshly gath-
tamarind juice, sugar, and salt are used to reduce the spicy taste. ered leaves, flowers, and fruits of local plants from the backyard or
226 J Ethn Foods 2017; 4: 221e231

cengkih (cloves), kulit kayu manis (cinnamon sticks), bunga lawang


(star anise), buah pelaga (cardamom), jintan putih (cumin), jintan
manis (fennel), and buah pala (nutmeg). In Malay cultures, rempah
(a thick wet or dry paste) made from finely ground herbs and spices
is commonly used in preparation of curries and rendang. The type of
curry or rendang (chicken, mutton, beef, fish, or vegetables) de-
termines which spices make up the mixture. Traditionally, the
mixture of rempah is ground and crushed using a mortar and pestle.
The special ingredients of Malay dishes can be easily found at local
wet markets or pasar malam (the night market) (Fig. 6).

5.5. Traditional Malay desserts

The definition of traditional food varies according to the locality


and the individual's perception toward food. Traditional food has
long been an identity to all races because of uniqueness and spe-
Fig. 4. Turi leaves cooked in water with carrot and sweet corn, a water-based
vegetable dish. Chopped onions are sauteed in oil; some pounded anchovies and water cialty. Starting from main dishes, appetizers to desserts, Malay
are added and brought to a boil; carrot and sweet corn are added and simmered for a traditional foods was across cultures and races in this country.
while before adding the green leaves, season to taste. There are many types of traditional food in Malaysia, such as dishes
and desserts. Malay traditional desserts originate from two distinct
places: West Malaysia and East Malaysia. There are many varieties
local market. All the special ingredients contribute in large parts to of desserts that can be found in all states of Malaysia. One of the
distinctive piquancy and delightful flavor of Malay heritage food. A famous Malay traditional desserts comes from Kelantan and
prominent ingredient in Malay cuisine is chili, locally called cili or Terengganu.
cabai, which can be used in both fresh and dried forms [5]. There are Traditionally, Malay cake and desserts are usually consumed
three types of chili commonly used in Malay culture, which is fresh outside mealtime and special preparation, which are different from
chili, dried chili, and bird's eye chili. This is the way Malay food is everyday fare and intended for festive and other special occasions.
identical in terms of the characteristic of the food itself such as being However, in the modern days, Malay desserts can be eaten at any
hot and spicy by adding more chilies in their dishes. They also act as time of the day, as light breakfast, afternoon snack, or dessert. Di-
a food enhancer, flavoring agent, and a food garnish. versity is the attractiveness of Malay traditional desserts, and this is
In addition, asam jawa (tamarind) is commonly used in curries evident in all kinds of cakes and snacks known as kuih that are
by soaking and squeezing it with water to produce the sour extract. handed down from one generation to the next in the Malay com-
Nor et al [20] highlighted the wide use of different rhizomes, munity. These Malay delicacies, which are usually fried, but
namely halia (ginger), kunyit (turmeric), lengkuas (galangal), and sometimes steamed, grilled, or baked, can be found at hawker
kecur (lesser galangal), and aromatic leaves such as daun kesum stalls, night market or pasar malam, and restaurants. Malay kuih is
(Vietnamese coriander), daun limau purut (kaffir lime leaves), daun divided into two categories: sweet and savory. The basic in-
ketumbar (coriander leaves), daun pandan (screwpine leaves), daun gredients used to produce sweet kuih are sugar, coconut milk,
kari (curry leaves), daun kunyit (turmeric leaves), daun kaduk (wild brown sugar, and gula melaka (palm sugar). Gula melaka is extrac-
pepper leaves) in the preparation of Malay dishes (Fig. 5). Fragrant ted from the flower sap of a coconut palm and processed and sold in
plant stems such as serai (lemongrass), flower buds such as bunga the form of hard cakes wrapped in dried brown coconut leaves [5].
kantan (torch ginger buds/wild ginger bud), fruits, nuts, and seeds, Similar to normal sugar, they melt when boiled and taste bitter
specifically asam keping (a thinly sliced dried sour fruit), buah when burnt. Gula melaka is more natural and healthier and has long
belimbing buluh (sour finger carambola), limau nipis (limes), buah been used to make traditional Malay kuih. Examples of traditional
keras (candlenut), and biji ketumbar (coriander seeds) are sweet kuih are kuih baulu, tapai, dodol, kuih tepung talam, kuih seri
commonly used. Malay cuisine also uses dried spices such as bunga muka, kuih lapis pelangi, kuih abuk-abuk sagu, kuih bingka, kuih cek
mek molek, kuih lompang, kuih tepung pelita, kuih koci, kuih seri kaya,
kuih bakar, and onde-onde. Sometimes, this sweet Malay local kuih
is served with other accompaniments such as kuih lopes eaten with
caramelized palm sugar and kuih apam beras eaten with kelapa
parut muda (grated young coconut) (Figs. 7 and 8).
Other than sweet kuih, Malay people also consume hot and spicy
varieties. Therefore, local kuih recipes have been reworked from
time to time to diversify the types of savory kuih. Normally, herbs
and spicy ingredients are added in the filling while preparing sa-
vory kuih. The basic ingredients used to prepare savory kuih are
curry powder, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, mustard, coriander,
cumin, black pepper, and chili. The combination of these in-
gredients produces a spicy flavor in the savory kuih. Some examples
of popular savory kuih are kuih karipap, kuih cara berlauk, kuih cucur
badak, kuih pulut panggang, kuih popia sambal, and so on.
In Malaysia, tapai is a popular delicacy among the Malay and is
normally consumed as dessert. There are two main types of tapai,
Fig. 5. Galangal or blue ginger rhizome provides unique aroma and flavor to Malay
namely tapai pulut (glutinous rice) and tapai ubi (tapioca) [33].
food. It is one of the essential ingredients in the rendang recipe. It gives additional Tapai is made from three ingredients: steamed glutinous rice or
flavor to various dishes. tapioca, sugar, and ragi (yeast). All the ingredients are mixed
M.N.A. Raji et al / Malay kitchen essentials 227

Fig. 6. Pasar Siti Khadijah, Kota Bharu, Kelantan. It is one of the most popular wet markets in Malaysia selling items such as fresh and dry herbs, spices, vegetables, fish, crackers,
kitchen utensils, and textiles (silk and batik). Most of the traders in this market are Malay women. Most women in this state are known to be enterprising.

Fig. 7. Kuih lapis pelangi. Normally, it is prepared with seven layers. It is a fusion be- Fig. 8. Kuih abuk-abuk sagu. It is a traditional Malay kuih made from sago pearl, gula
tween the Malay and Nyonya cuisines and one of the favorite kuih of Malaysians. melaka (palm sugar), and grated young coconut.
228 J Ethn Foods 2017; 4: 221e231

together, individually portioned, and wrapped in banana leaves or daging, and ayam masak merah, served along with local fruits and
daun getah (rubber leaves). Nowadays, tapai is wrapped using assorted Malay kuih during these occasions.
plastic, paper, or a small plastic container. It is usually found in Aqiqah is usually performed on the same day as the cukur jam-
Peninsular Malaysia among the Malay community; it is served bul. The meaning of cukur jambul or potong jambul from an Islamic
during special functions such as Hari Raya Aidilfitri and Malay perspective is the very first haircut of a newborn child [37]. It is
weddings. Tapai tastes sweet, yet slightly alcoholic, with a pleasant usually practiced in accordance with the Islamic traditions. The
aroma. The glutinous rice is soft and juicy, and some liquid is also closest family members are always invited to witness the event.
produced because of the fermentation. According to Merican and Usually, prayers are recited, followed by a religious song known as
Yeoh [33], tapai is a very perishable product because the fermen- marhaban or berzanji. Everything in-between these two depends
tation continues even after the optimum stage of fermentation has largely on family tradition and regional customs. Another impor-
been reached. Overfermentation results in a sour and more alco- tant element in the cukur jambul is the dulang or the ceremonial
holic taste, which is not acceptable for consumption. Generally, in tray that holds the scissors, young coconut, and bunga rampai (a
the north Peninsular Malaysia, tapai ubi (tapioca tapai) is more fragrant bouquet that usually includes screwpine leaves, jasmine,
popular and is also used to prepare other sweet delicacies. rose, and frangipani flowers).
Another popular delicacy among local Malay communities is The newborn baby's hair is preferably shaved on the seventh
kuih bahulu. It is one of the many traditional Malay delicacies that is day of the baby's birth. The new father or mother then carries the
still popularly eaten and served as a snack food among locals, baby to each person to snip off a lockdusually grandparents, family
especially during festive occasions such as Hari Raya Aidilfitri. or village elders, members of the marhaban or berzanji group, and
Nowadays, it can be found every day and is typically consumed as religious leaders. It is customary (though not compulsory) for those
afternoon tea. The ingredients used in making bahulu are eggs, who do the honors to present the baby with a little gift in cash or in
sugar, and flour. In the traditional recipe, the flour is sun dried to kind. Then, the baby’s shaved hair is weighed. The value of silver or
make it lighter and airy. Another important step to produce a soft gold equivalent to the hair’s weight is calculated. This amount is
texture in kuih bahulu is the method of beating eggs and sugar. then donated to the needy.
Traditionally beating eggs and sugar by using a hand whisk pro- Apart from shaving hair, at this same occasion in Malay custom,
duces a better quality kuih bahulu than the commercially prepared belah mulut is also performed by chewing dates and putting a little
ones. Beating eggs and sugar with a hand whisk incorporates more of the chewed date on the fingertips and then inserting and rubbing
air into the mixture. The traditional way of baking kuih bahulu is by it into the baby's mouth [21]. As the final part of cukur jambul, all
using charcoal fire, where hot coals are placed on the top of and the invited guests are presented with quintessentially traditional
under the kuih bahulu mold. As such, it takes quite a while to cook bunga telur (a hard-boiled egg attached to a flower on a bamboo
in the traditional way, but the traditional method produces a stick) as a mark of appreciation for attending the ceremony. Aqiqah
wonderful aroma. Thus, many kuih bahulu makers nowadays have and cukur jambul are an important rite of passage for a Malay baby,
resorted to modern methods, for example, using the hot oven. Kuih and some families argue that it is very much an event for extended
bahulu comes in several different shapes due to the different bahulu family to come together, renew bonds, and welcome the new baby
molds used, and the famous ones are bahulu cermai (button) and into the clan.
bahulu ikan emas (goldfish) [34].
6.2. Khatam Al-Quran and majlis berkhatan/bersunat

6. Malay occasions The Khatam Al-Quran can be defined as the moment one has
completed his/her course in the reciting of the Holy Al-Quran [38].
6.1. Aqiqah and cukur/potong jambul Muslims believe that “the moment we are able to read, it is
compulsory for us to begin with Al-Quran” [21]. The Malay com-
The definition of aqiqah in Islamic terminology is “slaughtering munity views Al-Quran as a guideline that rules all dimensions of
an animal on the occasion of child birth” [35]. It is usually per- human life whether at an individual or collective level. Therefore,
formed on the seventh day of the baby's birth, after naming the teaching Al-Quran reciting and its essence is an obligation of the
baby. However, some scholars have said that this can be postponed parents. In the early times, all Malay parents entrusted religious
till the child has become mature, and aqiqah can be performed teachers, known as Ustaz (male) or Ustazah (female), with teaching
then. Performing aqiqah is highly encouraged among the Muslim their children both reciting of Al-Quran and Islamic knowledge and
people as thanksgiving for the birth of a newborn child. Apart from practices. But now, the situation has changed, and the parents
great blessing from the Creator, it is part of tradition for the family neither send their children to Islamic schools in the afternoon after
members, neighbors, and friends to celebrate the blessed occasion. attending the normal school hours nor do they prefer to teach their
Not to forget, poor families are also invited during these celebra- children by themselves.
tions, and food and uncooked meat are offered to them. There are 30 juzuk (chapters) in the Al-Quran (all in Arabic), and
Per the Islamic practice for this event, to provide a community it takes quite a few months to complete reciting it depending on
meal, the family slaughters one or two lambs [36]. Two equal lambs the speed of reading. The moment when one completes reciting
for a baby boy and one for a baby girl. Sheep, cows, or camels can the whole Al-Quran is called Khatam Al-Quran. This occasion is a
also be used instead of lamb. Camels must be older than 6 years, highly encouraged thanksgiving event. The final verse of the Al-
cows must be older than 3 years, and sheep must be older than 2 Quran, the 30th section, is read during this ceremony. After
years for slaughtering. The selection of the animal is very important which, doa (prayer) is recited. On completion of the reciting, he or
in that they must be free from any handicap, such as being blind, she first kisses the hand of the Quran teacher, then the parents,
unhealthy, and undernourished. After slaughtering, one-third of and finally the hands of each guest. Next, the guests take part in
uncooked meat is given away to the poor family as charity, and the the feast, and the guests receive a traditional bunga telur. Malay
rest is cooked and served in a large community meal. Typically, traditional foods such as laksa johor, yellow glutinous rice accom-
guests are served with food and drinks. It is common to see tradi- panied by beef rendang, roti jala with chicken curry, and Malay
tional Malay dishes, such as pulut kuning (yellow glutinous rice) desserts are usually served during this occasion. It is also
with beef rendang, nasi briyani, nasi minyak, lamb soup, kurma customary in the Malay society to organize a Khatam Al-Quran
M.N.A. Raji et al / Malay kitchen essentials 229

ceremony before a wedding, which is traditionally hosted by the nikah (solemnization), in which the bride and groom are consid-
bride's family. ered officially married [19]. This occasion is normally small and is
A very important ceremony in a Malay boy's life is berkhatan or attended primarily by family members and close friends. The most
circumcision, and it is usually performed when he is between 6 and planned-for event is called majlis bersanding or the wedding
13 years old [21]. Although it could be done at birth, Malaysians reception, where everyone from the bride's families and friends is
prefer to have their boys circumcised before attaining adolescence invited to introduce the new husband and wife. This is when the
or puberty. Circumcision is a process that every Muslim male has to bride and groom wear the most beautiful matching attire and sit on
undergo in their journey to manhood. Living in a town certainly the dais while the guests watch in awe (Fig. 9). The final occasion
takes out the fun of this exciting event. In the village, usually during similar to the second event is called majlis bertandang. This is also
school holidays, boys at the age of puberty prepare for circumcision a ceremony to introduce the bride and groom and is hosted by the
in groups to eliminate the fear. They dress up in baju melayu and groom's side at their home or choice of location. During this entire
kain pelikat (traditional costumes) and have a feast [21]. A shower event, there will be a main table where the bride and groom have
then follows in preparation of berkhatan, followed by a wait for the their lunch or dinner with selected guests. On this table, the food is
arrival of Tok Mudindthe expert to perform the circumcision [39]; different and specially prepared and presented for the bride and
however, nowadays, circumcision is performed in a clinic by a groom, as they are the king and queen for the day.
professional doctor. Then, all the kids line up to take turns for All Malay weddings must be accompanied by hantaran (gifts) at
circumcision. In addition, majlis berkhatan has become a traditional the time the vows are exchanged. These gifts are placed on a tray
ceremony with bunga manggar (a traditional Malay decorative item and beautifully decorated, showing respect. There are normally an
that is carried while accompanying important guests), music from odd number of trays as determined by the bride. The groom has to
the kompang (a traditional Malay musical instrument), a show of follow suit with a fewer odd-numbered trays. The hantaran trays
the silat (the Malay art of self-defense), and a kenduri (Malay feast) normally are token of gifts to each other, traditionally consisting of
for the visitors. Normally, the kenduri is held for lunch or after the clothing, shoes, watches, a set of jewelry, local fresh potpourri, and
midday prayer. a few traditional sweet desserts such as halwa maskat, kek lapis,
wajik pulut, kuih kacau labu, wajik ubi kayu, halwa lobak merah, and
6.3. Malay wedding ceremonies dodol.
The Malay wedding is another testimony of the community's
Malay weddings are truly spectacular and elaborate. It is collective identity. Marriages are often celebrated in an elaborate
generally celebrated for a minimum of 3 days. It starts with akad fashion, involving a large number of guests. The feast is on a huge

Fig. 9. Majlis bersanding. The bride and groom wearing traditional Malay costume for their reception (majlis bersanding). Typically, the reception is held from 11:30 AM to 4 PM; guests
will be there within the stated time and will be served buffet-style lunch consisting of pilaf rice, beef rendang, acar (vegetable pickles), curry fried chicken, and a selection of
desserts. The menu would depend on how much budget that the host wants to spend on food.
230 J Ethn Foods 2017; 4: 221e231

scale, with at least 1,000 or more guests served with a selection of The first day after the holy month of Ramadan is a busy one. A
Malay traditional rice and curries. Preparations for the wedding are visit to the mosque and recitation of special prayers is a practice
usually undertaken by family members and close friends within the that Muslims observe on the morning of Hari Raya Aidilfitri to
community, in spirit of gotong-royong (cooperation). celebrate the end of the fasting month. Other practices include
It is also acceptable to bring a gift or cash for the newlyweds. asking forgiveness from the seniors and visiting relatives and
Typically, the cash is placed in an envelope and handed to either friends. Visits usually begin with the parents' home as the first
parents of the bride or the groom while leaving. The envelope is destination. It is a custom among many Muslims to ask forgiveness
slipped discretely into the parent's hands when the guest shakes from their parents for any wrongdoing in the past year. Although it
them to congratulate them on their son's or daughter's marriage. As is not required for Muslims to visit the cemetery during Hari Raya
they depart, each guest is presented with a token of various gifts Aidilfitri, many do so as a remembrance of those who have passed
from chocolate to hard-boiled eggs to ensure fertility of the away. In Malaysia, children are given token sums of money called
newlyweds. duit raya by their parents or elders.

6.4. Hari Raya Aidilfitri 7. Table etiquette

Hari Raya literally means “celebration day,” and Hari Raya Traditionally, Malay dinner is laid on a pandanus mat; however,
Aidilfitri is the day that marks the end of the fasting month of in the modern days, most Malay homes use the dining table. Kain
Ramadan. For the Muslim community, Hari Raya Aidilfitri is one of seperah (a piece of cloth) laid on the mat and then food is served.
the two most important celebrations, the other one being Hari Raya Usually, female diners and children are served on a separate kain
Aidiladha. Hari Raya Aidilfitri is one of the biggest holidays in seperah. In Malay traditional customs, there are distinct differences
Malaysia, and most Muslims and even non-Muslims take this op- between men and women in the manner of seating on the mat.
portunity to return to their hometown (balik kampung) to enjoy the Men should crisscross their feet in front of themdduduk bersila
celebration day together with their family. dand women should fold both their feet on one sidedduduk ber-
Traditional clothes, such as baju melayu, songkok, and samping simpuh (normally on their right side) [40].
for the men and baju kurung or kebaya for the women, are worn All dishes, including the rice, are served at the same time and
during this festival. Most families choose clothes of similar color not in the form of courses. Diners scoop the warm rice onto their
themes to show family bonds and ties. Another important part of plates and then help themselves to the dishes. Dishes with kuah
this festive period is preparing traditional Hari Raya Aidilfitri special (gravy) have a spoon to scoop the sauce, soup, or gravy, but for dry
menus, including ketupat, lemang, rendang, nasi minyak, and so on dishes, one simply tears a piece of the food by using their fingers.
(Fig. 10). Traditional equipment and utensils such as the pestle and Dessert is the only course that is served on its own toward the end
mortar, firewood, pots, and pans are used to maintain the aroma of the meal. Before starting the meal, doa makan (the prayer before
and unique taste of these special foods. All the dishes are prepared meals) is recited to demonstrate thankfulness for the food to Allah,
from scratch, and the ingredients normally can be bought from the and it is polite for the diners to invite the more senior ones at the
wet market or harvested from the backyard or in the woods. Family table to start eating first by saying jemput makan (please eat). In an
members contribute their time and energy together to occasion when two diners reach out for the same dish, it is also
prepare these Hari Raya Aidilfitri menus. polite to allow the more senior person to help himself/herself first.

Fig. 10. Ketupat nasidcompressed rice wrapped in coconut leaves. An authentic Malay traditional dish made from rice. For the ketupat casing, only young coconut leaves are used.
After filling up the ketupat casing with rice, it is boiled for 2e3 hours. It is usually eaten during festive seasons such as Hari Raya Aidilfitri and Hari Raya Haji and served with beef
rendang or chicken floss (serunding).
M.N.A. Raji et al / Malay kitchen essentials 231

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