Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2. …A Quick Introduction
THE BASIC FORMS
3. …The Original Frame Bomb
4. …The Helm
5. …The Battle-Axe
6. …The Hourglass
7. …The Mushroom
8. …The Hawk
9. …The Square and the Bobber Method
VARIATIONS, METHODS, AND STRUCTURAL BONUSES
10. …The Fairy
11. …The Ace Wing, the Inverted Helm
12. …The Interlacing Triangle and the Shield of David, the H-Square Method
13. …The Five-Pointed Star, the Star of David, Basic Star Building
14. …The Seven-Pointed Star, Basic Star Building (cont.)
15. …Basic Star Building (cont.), Star Monkey Chain
16. …The Shell
SECTION TWO: MORE WITH FRAME BOMBS
17. …The Slatted Square
18. …The Monkey Chain
19. …The Chain Links, Building 3D Frame Bombs
20. …Building 3D Frame Bombs (cont.)
21. …Tips to Help You Build Frame Bombs like a Pro
23. …Tips (cont.), Finger Rating
24. …I Have a Frame Bomb: Now What?
25. …The Grand Sequence of Frame bombs

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Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 2

A QUICK INTRODUCTION
So, young novice, you have decided. You have made what could be the
most important decision of your life. Brave adventurer, you elected to embark on a
voyage to learn the powerful arts of frame bombs. If you be stiff of resolve and
fleet of finger, ready to explore, prepare to hear of the wondrous force of frame
bombs. You shall soon have the capability to smite your enemies and become
“Milord!” instead of “Scamp!”

What You Need to Know about Frame bombs

Frame bombs are structures made from craft sticks that are held
together by tension and pressure from other sticks woven into the
same structure—no glue!
They explode or come apart when they hit stuff!
There are lots of cool different kinds. The more you know the more
you can do with them. The more Popsicle sticks you have the
bigger the structures you can make.
You can build practically anything with enough sticks and nothing
else but a little engineering.
Some Definitions
These terms are illustrated on page 3.
A single Popsicle stick sticking out of a form is known as a prong,
but an angle is a point.
The space between the inner boundaries of a point is called a gap.
A tension configuration is an arrangement of sticks that will
remain a self-sufficient unit in a unique way. If a stick could be
taken out of the unit without it exploding, it is not a new tension
configuration.
The open end of an uncompleted frame bomb is the part opposite
a point where a stick needs to go to hold the bomb together.

How This Book Works

The basics of what you need to know about each form appear on
its respective page. A picture of the unit’s namesake is shown in
blue as well.
All instructions are written as if in a two dimensional plane in
regards to words like ‘above’ and ‘below.’ However, ‘over’ and
‘under’ are actually meant in a three dimensional sense, especially
for weaving.
If you are stuck you can always look at the tips section in the back.
If you feel a little nervous, turn to page 24 and the Finger Rating
section to determine an easy form for starting with.

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Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 3

THE BASIC FORMS

Before you can make the large, graceful, and generally awe inspiring frame
bombs that will make you a master frame bomb builder in the eyes of the small fry
frame bombers around you, you must have a strong grasp of the basic forms. Your
first step was to pick up this book. Mastery of the basic frame bombs will be your
second step on your quest to the furthest summit of scatter framing.

This is the Original frame bomb. It will be easier to build the unit if
you do not have it laying on a surface, but the instructions are written as if
the units are on the ground to give you an idea what the form is like.

1. Lay a stick vertically

2. Lay a stick at a 45-degree angle to the right on top of step one’s stick.
3. Lay a stick in an opposite angle to the left on top of the right stick.
4. Weave a stick over the left angle, under the vertical stick, and over the
angle to the right. This stick should be about halfway down the vertical.
5. Do the opposite of step four by weaving under the left, over the middle,
and under the right.
6. If you need help, look at the tips on pages 22-24.
☺ Frame bomb! Shuffleboard – Using some sort of flinging device, (or
your hand), throw some object that won’t damage your environment at a
group of frame bombs. Decide on a point value for each unit. Each time
your disc hits a frame bomb and causes it to explode, the thrower gets
those points. You can also play this in teams, sort of like lacrosse. Each
player has a flinger, and hurls the disc to his teammates or at the frame
bomb targets.

Open end of Prongs (see

frame bomb page 3)

These three
sticks come
together to
A gap form a point.
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The next form is called the Helm. It is named after the helmet
knights in the Dark Ages would wear. Knowing the Helm will help you
grasp the concepts of many other forms.
1. Lay a stick going diagonally from top right to bottom left.
2. Place another stick on top of it by going diagonally top left to bottom
right, creating an X.
3. Weave in a diagonal stick which slants from over the bottom right stick,
under the upper right stick and with the top end of this new stick
directly above the vertex of the X. You will leave a prong extending out
past the stick from step one. It is sometimes easier if you rest the ends
of those three sticks on a flat surface, or pressing the sticks on the
right flat against your thigh. Otherwise, grip the corner of all three
sticks in the bottom three fingers of your right hand
4. Weave under the bottom left part of the X, over the top left and under
the stick from 3.
►After you have gotten the hang of the Helm, try to avoid keeping these
corner sticks together by pressing them on a flat surface. You can build it
faster in the air.
► You can also build a Helm using the Original frame bomb if you have
five sticks. When you build the Original, slant the first of the horizontal
sticks so that it goes from upper left to lower right. Then remove the left
vertical stick.
☺ A Helm can be used in a useful way called the Helm Blunderbuss. This
involves building a symmetrical, angular Helm and orienting a flat side
toward your chest. It is a trick missile, because when you push down on
the top, a stick will go flying out of each side, sideways. The victim will
expect it to work like a pistol, but they are in for a surprise. For more tricks,
see page 25.

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This next form is the Battle-Axe.

1. Place a stick vertically.
2. Position the next stick on top of the first so that it slopes to the right
from lower left to upper right, stemming from the bottom of the first
stick.
3. Add a horizontal stick between the V (from steps one and two) so that
the new stick is woven under the left and over the right and extending
into space. It is helpful to make it extend far to the right.
4. Affix a stick over the left vertical stick, under the right vertical, and
extending into space on the right. This new stick is above the old stick
(it’s further away from your body).
5. Weave a vertical stick over the bottom right prong from step 3 of the
structure, under the middle right (step 4), and over the top right (step
2).
☺ You can substitute a frame bomb for a Frisbee in any Frisbee game, but
you have to be very careful to stop it from exploding. This can easily
become an integral part of the game. Some of the most durable frame
bombs in this book include the Shield of David, the Five-pointed Star, the
Slatted Square, and the Hawk. Stars are the most durable.

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The Hourglass is a frame bomb that resembles the Battle-Axe in

tension configuration, but forms a different shape.
1. Position a stick going vertically.
2. Place a stick diagonally from upper left to lower right.
3. Arrange a stick diagonally from upper right to lower left.
4. Weave over the left diagonal, under the middle, and over the opposite
diagonal on the bottom of the structure.
5. Repeat step 4 for the remaining open end of the structure.
►The Hourglass and the Battle-Axe are held together in much the same
way, but are different shapes. The main difference is that the Hourglass
holds together better when thrown, and is more solid in general.
☺ Frame bomb! Golf -This is a lot like Frisbee golf, and is played with the
same rules. Just throw a frame bomb at the flag or target until it goes in,
throwing from the place where you frame bomb landed. Set a
predetermined par for each hole. This par is the number of throws it
should take to get the unit in the target. Your score is based on how few
shots you had to take. If you like, you can play that the frame bomb is “in
the hole” when it hits the flagstick. I enjoy playing to use the advantage of
having a frame bomb: when the unit hits the ground and explodes, you get
to pick which Popsicle stick you throw your next shot from. Play it alone or
with friends. Your party can decide on different rules and regulations.

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Here’s a cool looking form. It is called the Mushroom. It is

somewhat difficult to build, but keep trying. After you do it once
successfully it will click.
1. Place a stick going vertically.
2. Position the next stick on top of the first so that it slopes to the right
from lower left to upper right
3. Weave a stick under the left and over the right of the V about half way
down, in a precise horizontal.
4. Weave a diagonally up-sloping stick from left to right, going under the
stick from step 3 and over the left part of the V.
5. Weave an up-tilting stick from right to left over step 3, under the right of
the V, and over step 4.
►This form is the first step of the Star of David, see page 13.
►You can also use the Mushroom to build a stronger Five-pointed Star.
See again page 13.
☺ Frame bomb! “Laser” Tag – Each player has a certain number of
Popsicle sticks. He can throw units (preferably Helms, which are faster to
build) at the other players. If they are hit, they lose a point. The players
can decide how many points to grant, divide off territories, give certain
sticks special abilities, and/or mark each stick to show its owner/thrower.

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This form is one of the most difficult to build, the Hawk. It will
probably take you a while to learn the best fingering for it, but it is worth
the extra effort.
1. Position the first stick diagonally from bottom left to upper right.
2. Place the next stick over the first one from bottom right to upper left.
3. Weave a stick over the bottom right prong and under the upper right
prong, extending straight up.
4. Weave opposite step 3 by bringing your stick under the bottom left
prong and over the upper left one, also extending straight away from
you.
5. Now a stick that doesn’t weave (yet)! Place one end of a stick over the
prong you made in step 4, and the other end over the prong from step
3.
6. This is the tricky part, so be patient. Weave a stick under step 4, right
below step 5’s end, then over step 5, then under the prong from step 3.
You can’t let step 5 move during this process, so hold it with your
thumb (probably putting pressure on the right end where it overlaps the
vertical stick).
► In order to get a Hawk which is easier to fly, run an additional stick up
the center of the form. See the Fairy (page 8) for details on how this
should go. The point of this stick is to provide a handle for gripping.
☺ Frame bomb! Speed-Building Contest – The judge decides on a frame
bomb. Each competitor is given the needed number of sticks. When the
judge says go, everyone builds the form. First one done wins. Points can
be doled out for Most Symmetrical Frame bomb, Largest Frame bomb
Built in a Certain Time, Largest Frame bomb Built Without Exploding, or
have everyone throw their form when they are finished and average the
time with the accuracy. There are a thousand such contests.

Optional

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The Square really shows the essence of how a frame bomb stays
together. The best way to build it is by sticking a stick in the bottom of the
Original frame bomb. I termed this method the Bobber method.
1. Build an Original frame bomb and rotate it so the point is facing you.
2. Insert a stick under both sticks branching off at angles, and above the
vertical stick. If the sticks that form an angle are towards the floor, you
will put the stick over them and under the vertical stick.
3. Gently pull the angled sticks away from the middle until a square is
formed.

►You can use the Bobber Method any time three sticks come together to
form a point like the one in the Original frame bomb.
☺ Frame bomb! Secret Agents - Fill a room with monkey chains going
between the walls. The players must make their way across the room by
going over, under, between or around these “laser beams”, as if they are
an infrared security device. If they touch one and it explodes, they are
“incinerated”. This game is made more fun by placing a reward at the
other end of the room.

Gray boxes like this one indicate

a frame bomb you should build in
step 1 before continuing with the
rest of the form.

Gently pull red and blue

outwards, taking care not
to let other components
slip.

As if you
couldn’t tell.

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VARIATIONS, METHODS, AND STRUCTURAL BONUSES

As you become skilled at the basic frame bombs, a thirst for more to do
with them will probably awaken in you. After you have mastered some of the
basics, this section will give you some methods with which to advance your basic
frame bombs to new levels!

The Fairy is another close relative of the Helm. The extra stick up
the middle is an asset when throwing the Helm and can also be added to
almost any frame bomb.
1. Lay a stick going diagonally from top right to bottom left.
2. Place another stick on top of it by going diagonally top left to bottom
right, creating an X.
3. Weave over the bottom right, under the upper right, and leave a prong
extending out past the stick from step one.
4. Insert a stick under step 2, and under step three.
5. Complete the Fairy as you would complete a Helm by weaving under
bottom left, over the middle, and under the top two sticks.

Green is
See Helm,
above blue,
page 4
under black,

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Next on our agenda is the Ace Wing.

1. Build a Helm.
2. Insure that the Helm is rotated so that the two points are facing you.
3. Place a vertical stick under the gap in the Helm’s point.
4. Weave under the left point of the chevron shape of the Helm, over the
stick from step 3, and under the right of the chevron.
☺The Ace Wing flies pretty well. It is second only to the Hawk in flight (see
page 8) but it is easier to build.

The inverted Helm is not any different from the Helm it stems
from except in tension configuration; the shape is the same. Most people
will not notice a difference. To invert a Helm:
1. Make your X with the first stick going from upper left to lower right
instead of going from upper left to lower right.
2. The second stick will go from upper right to lower left.
3. Weave the next stick under-over from the bottom right.
4. Go over-under-over from top to bottom on the left.
►You can invert any form based on the Helm, Battle-Axe, and the
Mushroom, like the Fairy and the Ace Wing (see pages 10 and 11,
respectively), or the Star of David. Just take the first two steps and reverse
which is on top. Then, when an over weave is called for, weave under,
and vice versa.
The inversions are sometimes useful from an engineering standpoint
when using the monkey chain, in order to make the structure more stable.

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The Interlacing Triangle is a method you can use on many

frame bombs. When you add a triangle to the Original frame bomb, it
becomes the Shield of David.
1. To interlace, take the unit you are using as a base for the triangle, say
an Original. Insure that the point that is opposite the handle is facing
away from you.
2. Then, put two sticks in through the lower right and left gaps in the
weaving, going under the handle and over the upper boundary of the
gap. This will form a forty-five degree angle.
3. Weave a stick over the stick you added, under the base unit and over
the other side of the angle to complete the triangle.

The H-Square method works well on any form with prongs

extending in both directions at each end like the Hourglass, Five-pointed
Star, and the Star of David. Here’s how it works:
1. Find the invisible line of horizontal symmetry, where the prongs or
points extending to the left and right are at opposite sides of the bottom
prongs going left and right.
2. Put a stick following this line of symmetry, under the existing portion of
the form.
3. Weave a stick over the bottom right prong, under the line of symmetry,
and over the top right prong.
4. Perform step three on the left side of the line of symmetry.

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The first five-pointed Star is very simple. It’s just a Helm with a
stick across the two prongs of the X. Weave over the prong, under the
basic Helm, and over the other prong. The reverse of this weave also
works.
☺If you can manage to weave the final stick under one side of the
gap in the point and over the other, it will be a very strong unit. This
applies to any Star. You can also take a Mushroom and turn the top point
into two prongs, and then bring those two prongs down to the existing
prongs (forming one point for every two prongs) for a sturdy star. See the
section on seven-pointed Stars for more detail. Making tough Stars is one
of the most challenging areas of frame bombs.

Tougher Style Star

The Star of David (not to be confused with the Shield of David,

see page 12) is also very simple in form.
1. Build a Mushroom (see page 7). Orient it so that the two prongs that
form the two tips of the V are facing away from you.
2. Reorganize the unit so that the two prongs are protruding rather far
from the main body of the unit.
3. Weave under the left prong, over the base unit, and under the prong to
the right. You can also weave a more robust Star of David in the same
way as the rugged five-pointed Star.

Weaker Style Star

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Once you can build a six-pointed Star it is relatively simple to

enlarge it to a seven-pointed Star. You can do this in one of two ways.
1. Start with a six-pointed Star which is well balanced.
2. Next send a stick through one of the outer gaps. This stick should go
over the incumbent stick to its right and under the rest of the structure
to the left.
3. Orient the stick so that it goes from lower right to upper left, diagonally.
The left end of the stick should be directly above the leftmost end of the
six-pointed Star, while the right end of the new stick rests on the
incumbent stick framing the gap.
4. Now locate the gap to the left of the gap you used in step 2. Note how
the gap is shaped like a triangle, and consider the vertex farthest away
from the center of the frame bomb as the top of this triangle.
5. Place your left thumb on the left vertex of the gap triangle. Pinch this
vertex by putting your left index finger opposite your thumb. Put your
right thumb on the right vertex of the triangle. Make your right index
finger push up on the underside of the left half of the stick added in step
2.
6. Pull all the sticks that are left of your left thumb to the left keeping them
woven properly. Slide the sticks right of your right thumb to the right,
including the stick you added. Once you have brought the two sides far
enough apart, slide the new stick over the end stick on the left side and
under the second to last stick on that side.
7. Complete the Star by pushing the final unpartnered stick on the left
under the unpartnered stick right by it.
Doesn’t that sound fun?

OR

1. Build the Mushroom.

2. Add another stick to it in much the same way you added the orange
stick in the method above: Put it over the prong to the right and under
the part of the structure to the left. Then pull the ends of the structure
apart from each other and slide the right end over the left end.

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3. Add another stick in the same way, so you will have seven sticks total
in your structure.
4. Tuck the prongs together into points in the way described above.
►This is called the Footprint Method. The number of ‘toes’ a footprint
needs to have is the number of points you want the Star to have minus
two. For example, to build an eight-pointed Star you would need six
points along the bottom (the opposite point is the ‘heel’) and a prong
on each side.
►You can also make the five-and-six-pointed Stars with the Footprint
Method. Sturdy Stars up to twelve points can be made using both
these methods, although the Footprint Method becomes harder after
six toes. You can get more points on a Star, but it is likely to become
warped and/or weaker. An alternative is to use skinnier sticks such as
corn dog sticks.

It is also possible to connect multiple Stars of any number of points

together. First you will need to learn to Monkey Chain (page 19). Once
you are good at connecting simpler forms, try to Monkey Chain stars
together. This section will detail how to connect seven-pointed Stars
together.
1. Build a seven-pointed Star. Make sure it is well balanced.
2. Build a four toed Footprint.
3. Place the left prong of the Footprint over the left end of a stick on the
Star.
4. Gently pull the heel apart. Take the right end stick and bring it over the
Star. Connect the point.
5. Push the right prong under the right end of the stick the Stars have in
common.

When making Monkey Chains involving Stars with

many points, connect each Star as a seven-
pointed Star. Then expand it to as many points as
needed.

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The Shell is a variation on the Original.

1. Place a stick vertically
2. Position one on top of that at a forty-five degree angle to the right.
3. Deposit a stick on top of steps 1 and 2, going right down the center.
4. Arrange a stick at forty-five degrees to the left.
5. Halfway up the vertical sticks, weave over, under, over, and under
again.
6. Weave under, over, under, over the vertical sticks above the first
horizontal.

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SECTION TWO: MORE WITH FRAME BOMBS

Word has come to my ears that you can build all of the single cell frame
bombs described in this book. Henceforth, you will be known as a Champion frame
bomber. I propose a feast of Popsicles and a tournament in your honor.
Structurally complex frame bombs can be used to build many more useful and
more complicated things. For example, build yourself a set of chain link armor! See
page 20. Send a toy soldier rafting on the slatted square! See page 18.

The Slatted Square is an extremely useful structure.

1. Start by building a Square (see page 9).
2. Push the right and left sides inward, being careful not to let the unit
explode. The sides should now be pushed up against the central vertical
stick.
3. The next step is to weave the opposite of the outward vertical sticks, on
the left and right. For example, if your vertical sticks are over the top and
bottom horizontal sticks, weave under the bottom, over the horizontal
center, and under the top stick.
4. Do this on the left and right of the structure with a separate Popsicle
stick for each.
5. You can continue adding the opposites of each side until you have filled
the entire square.
►To Monkey Chain the Slatted Square, just build two Slatted Squares.
However, do not fill one of the units with vertical sticks, but leave space so
that at least one more stick could be added. Use an edge stick of the other
Slatted Square to fill this gap.

You can continue

to add sticks until
your square is
full.

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This next structure is built using a technique known as the

Monkey Chain. To build the Original Monkey Chain, you must:
1. Build one Original frame bomb.
2. Build another Original, minus the top horizontal stick.
3. Grasp the incomplete unit at the base and insert its left top prong over
the end of one of your complete unit’s sticks.
4. Move the incomplete unit so that, while the left prong is still over the
edge of the complete unit, the middle prong is under the middle of the
complete frame bomb’s stick and the right prong is over the right of the
complete unit.
►You can make the chain longer by adding more incomplete units in the
same fashion.
►You can also build zigzag chains by changing which side of the original
form you weave with.
►A complete circle can also be built in this way, or any other shape at all.
Most frame bombs work just fine in a Monkey Chain, but some can only
work by weaving certain sides. Units like the Helm must be flipped before
adding to make a straight line. Here’s a hint: if you build a circular Helm
monkey chain, you get a giant star!

For a straight
line, flip the
Helm.

You can continue to repeat this

step until you reach the shape
you want.

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Another form of chain is the Chain Links. This is actually a very

simple process.
1. Build any kind of frame bomb, as long as it has a fairly large gap.
2. Next, weave together another unit of any type, but do not add the last
stick.
3. Insert a prong of the incomplete unit into any gap of the base unit, and
add the final stick.
►You can build a long chain, make a countdown calendar, or even build
your own set of frame bomb chain mail! (But don’t expect to be able to
move unless you build it big). You can also build several monkey chains,
and chain link them together using a Helm or other form. You can link in
any direction from any gap on the unit.

See Helm step

1-3, page
____

Now
complete the
second Helm
from step
two.

Building Three Dimensional Frame Bombs

There are many ways to bring frame bombs into the next
dimension. The simplest way is called the Christmas Tree Method. This
method can be used with any form of frame bomb, but the one that looks
like a Christmas tree involves using Helms. There are several different
ways to build a Christmas Tree.
1. Build a Helm.
2. Then complete the first three steps of the Helm.
3. Send the ends of the prongs on the incomplete Helm through gaps in
the first Helm.
4. Add the last stick.

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► You can see that this is really just a Chain Link with two gaps on each
bomb being used instead of one. Arrange the two intertwined units so the
structure can stand on its own.
► Another method involves building two complete Helms. One should
have the gap in its tip as large as possible, and the other Helm must have
as small a gap as possible. The small Helm is sent through the large gap
in the other Helm, with the tips pointing up. Set the two Helms
perpendicular to one another and reshape the larger Helm so it fits the
smaller one.

Building a fancier 3D frame bomb is another application of the

Christmas Tree Method. An extra stick is added to the original version of
each form used in a side joint. Here are the instructions for a Cube.
1. Build a Square, organized so that the perimeter sticks are pushed in
closer to the center (perhaps a stick-width and a half away from the
edge of a geometric square).
2. Weave a stick through three of these sticks to form a new edge. The
exact direction of your weave will depend on which side you build it on
(two sides will require over-under-over weaving, and two will require
under-over-under weaving).
3. Build another Square organized in the same manner as the first.
4. Send one edge of prongs from this new Square through two gaps
along the edge of the previous Square. One prong will fall on the
outside of the original Square. This step may require some
reorganization so the prongs go in smoothly.
5. Weave across the prongs you just put through, so the first augmented
square is linked to the augmented square that you will finish by adding
this stick.
6. You can continue use of this method to build a partial or complete
cube.

You can also build a Cylinder, and it is somewhat more reliable

than a Cube if you can build Stars well. The Cylinder takes two Twelve-
pointed stars and 18 craft sticks. The first step is to wedge a vertical stick
in every gap along the edge of one of the Stars. Tighten the Star to hold
them in more firmly by pulling the sticks that make it up towards the
centerpoint. Next lower the second Star down so that its gaps slip over the
sticks already sticking up from the original Star. After every stick runs
between the two Stars, weave under one vertical stick, over the one next
to it, and under the one after that, horizontally. Repeat this process where
the previous stick ended. You should start another horizontal stick below
the first stick, then above that stick, alternating every stick.

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TIPS TO HELP YOU BUILD FRAME BOMBS LIKE A PRO

Before you commence the quest you will undertake as a journeyman frame
bomb artist, you should peruse the text of this section. It will help you brush up
your skills and improve the efficiency of your construction. These skills will be
invaluable on your quest. Once you become a journeyman and bring your powers
out into the world, only practice and development of your already formidable skills
will stand in your way of becoming a frame bomb master… and maybe a king.

Remember that some frame bombs are harder than others. Keep
working at those that give you some trouble. Perhaps one of your friends
gets it and can help you. Try some of these tips. I haven’t met a person
yet who couldn’t build a frame bomb after enough practice. A list of the
harder frame bombs, which introduce new skills, include: your first frame
bomb, the Battle-Axe, the Mushroom, the Hawk, and the tough versions of
the Stars.

General Tips: These tips usually apply to most frame bombs, but sometimes
another method may be more helpful.
Always hold the open end of a partially constructed frame bomb
away from you. This makes it easier to put a stick there.
All instructions are written for right-handers. If you are a lefty, it
might be easier to hold the base of the unit in your left hand and
start weaving from the right instead of weaving from left to right.
If a certain form seems too hard, try and master more completely a
form similar to the hard one in shape and then work up to the
difficult form. If a frame bomb you are building is under too much
tension and the sticks break, soak them in water for a few minutes.
This will make them much more flexible. If the sticks slip off, you
can wet them briefly to make them less slippery because of surface
tension. These are both especially important when you are building
a large structure.
If you still find that your sticks are too slippery, running over them
lightly with a rasp or coarse sandpaper that is rougher than the
grain of your stick works well.
Both resilience and grip can be a problem when building frame
bombs. One may be more important than the other depending on
what kind of frame bomb you are building. Structures under a lot of
tension tend to break more sticks, so place high resilience in
priority. Small, one celled units like to slip, so grip is usually more
important. Another solution is to mix the kinds.

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Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 22

Tips by form: These tips are designed to be used with the illustrated
instructions.
Original: The most important thing here is to keep the three
overlapping vertical base sticks in place. Hold them tightly in your
right hand, between the thumb and forefinger.
Helm: If the side sticks in your Helm won’t stay, try making the X
wider and shorter. This form can be built in a faster way by making
two V’s of proper layering, one in each hand, and bringing them
together into a Helm weave.
Battle-Axe: The farther to the right the horizontal sticks extend past
the V, the less tension the unit is under. Hold the left side in your
left hand, steadying the right with your thumb, before you weave
the final stick.
Hourglass: This form is easier to build when the asterisk shape the
first three sticks make is narrower. Hold the asterisk together at the
point where all three sticks overlap.
Mushroom: Before adding the last stick, hold the incomplete unit in
your left hand. Push down on the upper left stick with the thumb of
your left hand (step 4) and push up on the right stick of the V (step
2) with the forefinger of your left hand. Then add the last stick,
slipping your forefinger out from under its stick as you do so.
Hawk: Pushing the step 5 stick down on the right side with the
thumb of the right hand before you add the final stick is a much
more efficient way to build the unit, but some people’s hands are
not big enough.
Square: Make sure you keep all the sticks forming accurate right
angles or the unit will fall apart.
Fairy: Hold the middle vertical stick down firmly with your thumb.
This form may be easier if you start with the straight vertical stick
over the right slant; then move it back to where it goes when you’re
ready to finish.
Shield of David: This is one form it is effective to rotate when it is
under construction.
Slatted Square: Instead of building a square and then pushing the
sides in, you can push them in immediately after you start the
Bobber Method.
Monkey Chain: Inverted forms against a standard form a stronger
structure.

If you just can’t get a certain frame bomb, practice with corn dog
style sticks. That kind of special stick puts very little tension on the unit
and will enable you to get a grasp of the position of the individual sticks
without worrying about the frame bomb exploding on you. Corn dog sticks
are available at hobby stores, often marketed as “Skinny Sticks”.
In my experience, the easiest stick to work with, especially for
learning on, is a Junior Style tongue depressor. They are much more in

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Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 23

proportion to a normal Popsicle stick and their size makes them easier to
grasp and move. They don’t break as much and have good grip. However,
they’re not perfectly in proportion so twelve-pointed Stars and the like are
difficult to make.
Note: The normal 4.5” x 3/8” x 1/12” stick, usually made from the
wood of the white birch tree, often includes defects like knots or kinks.
Don’t rely on the defective sticks to hold together a key frame bomb in a
structure as they often snap along defect points.

If you are more of a visual learner, you can use the pictures in this
book to build units the way you like it. Each step has its own color.
The first step is Black.
The second step is Light Blue.
The third step is Red.
The fourth step is Green.
The fifth step is Pink.
The sixth step is Purple.
The seventh step is Orange.
The eighth step is Brown.

Finger Rating
Sometimes it seems like you just don’t have enough hands for building a
frame bomb. The Finger Rating of a frame bomb shows how many extra fingers
one has to have in order to build that frame bomb.
0 Fingers: Original, Helm, Inverted Helm
1 Finger: Hourglass, Ace Wing, Fairy
2 Fingers: Shell, Shield of David, Monkey Chains with 0 or 1 Finger frame
bombs
3 Fingers: Battle-Axe, Square, Slatted Square, 2/3 Finger Monkey Chains
4 Fingers: Mushroom, Hawk
5 Fingers: Stars of all points, Monkey Chains involving 4 Finger or more
rated frame bombs

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Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 24

I HAVE A FRAME BOMB: NOW WHAT?

Your skills learned from all levels of your passage into the capable ranks of
the frame bombers will gain you no favor without you being able to exploit those
abilities. The section that follows will aid you in getting the glory you deserve
issuing from your frame bomb dominance. Pore over these revered passages and
listen to the cries of “Hail! Hail, Insert Name Here!”

Of course you can always use your frame bombs for target
practice. The unit can be the target, the missile, or both.
Tie one Popsicle stick about two and a half inches from the bottom
of a balloon. If the balloon is helium, it is more fun, but there are still many
minutes of entertainment in a normal balloon. Throw your helium
aeronautical frame bomb downwind, and watch it soar! If you don’t have
too much weight on your balloon, the unit is much less likely to explode.
Build a fairly sturdy frame bomb. Hook one of the points into the
end of an elastic band, and stretch it back. Release the unit, and make
sure not to hit your finger. If you do it right, the unit will fly like a Frisbee at
high speeds. If you are lucky, you can even get some lift with these
contraptions! The Five-Pointed Star is a nice one for this activity.
You can build any frame bomb using a double thickness of sticks
(two sticks on top of each other where one would normally go). Usually,
one must soak the sticks first.
See the remarks under the first few forms for more games and
activities.

A note on engineering your own frame bombs: There are an infinite

variety of frame bomb forms, and you can come up with forms to meet
your own needs. First, arrange some sticks in the general shape you want.
Then get them into the proper weaving combinations, adding or removing
sticks as necessary. When determining the correct weaving, keep this in
mind. If a Popsicle stick is already sitting over another stick in the structure
and is yet to be countered by tension, then you will need to weave over
that stick to get it to stay, and sticks on the bottom layer need to be woven
under.
The best frame bombs are all combinations of many different frame
bomb methods. Towering graceful structures can be built with enough
craft sticks and some practice by incorporating multiple frame bombs
together in different ways. To form prisms, Monkey Chain two copies of a
2D pattern with central Stars and then connect them into Cylinders. Stack
frame bombs together, Chain Link large Monkey Chains, and bring it all
into the third dimension! Add structural strength with Stars. Challenge your
friends to come up with something that you can’t make out of Popsicle
sticks. Build it up and take it all down again. Share with friends. Decorate
your home, your room, and yourself. Build musical instruments, furniture,
toys, and frame bomb codes. Spread the craft and show your
acquaintances the power!

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 Joseph Collard THE GREAT BOOK OF FRAME BOMBS Page 25

Remember, the techniques shown in this book are just a few of the
infinite techniques available. Try and make up your own forms, methods,
and personal favorite ways of building, and keep practicing until you can
do anything you want to. Could it be your destiny…to be the Frame
bomb King?

Clancey, a friend,
for teaching me the David “Thor”
Cameron Collard,
Original frame bomb Collard, my dad, for
my cousin, for helping
me test the book and helping revise, test,
and illustrate my Jacob Collard, my
spread frame bombs brother, for helping
in the northern part of book.
me test the
the country instructions, inventing
the Bobber Method,
and helping spread
Kenny, a friend, for the word about frame
helping me learn to teach bombs
Stars

Behold!
Craig the Craig, a friend, for Theresa
testing the instructions in this The Whitney, the
book. librarian at the
Grand elementary
school I went to,
Sequence for helping me
test the book
Of with elementary
school age kids.
Frame Bombs!

About the Author: Joey Collard was introduced to

Popsicle sticks in 7th grade, when he coined the term
‘frame bomb’. Guess what he spends his time doing.
But, outside of the obvious, he likes to read, write,
cartoon, play air guitar, sing, and be in school plays.
Joey is Abstract-Sequential, a Virgo (September 10th),
a thinker, and has an IQ of at least 250. When he turns
30, he plans to be a hermit in the Appalachian
Mountains, so in the future plan to take a long hike if
you want to visit him.
And yes, he knows that a real guitar has the hole towards the stem. However, that method is just too easy.

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