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Originating from Sufi movements in the Middle East during the 11th and 12th centuries, the
Bektashi Order settled in Albania. After a period of great political importance during the disin-
tegration of the Ottoman Empire, the Order was completely banned by the communist regime,
when Albania became the only atheist state in the world. However, thanks to the secret practices
of the Albanian Bektashi community in exile, the religion was kept alive and spread through
several countries. In 1988, the new Constitution guaranteed freedom of worship and Bektashi
beliefs regained their place in Albanian society. The Eagles’ Country has returned to its long
tradition of tolerance by allowing Bektashis, Sunni Muslims and Christians to pray together on
the Tomorri Mountain, the sanctuary of divinities in Albania.
When Byron visited Albania in the 19th cen- faith. The Bektashi faith is considered equally
tury, he found hospitable people, tradition with other religions and Albania is the Bektashi
and a history as ancient as that of mankind. world centre. Bektashi is often described as the
Albanians live in a country of rough moun- right religion for Albanians, as a bridge between
tains, high rocks, wide plateau and gorges full Christians and Muslims. Albanians are often de-
of snow. The history of Albania between East scribed as people with weak religious feelings.
and West resembles a mountain eagle and a These ideas will be explored later. However, be-
troubled sea. This place which Albanians call fore dealing with the religions in Albania, it is
Shqipëri (“Land of the Eagle”) and foreign- important to take a look at Albania’s history from
ers call Albania, is a country with an ancient antiquity up to the present day. Some events will
history and language boasting magnificent probably provide a better understanding of the
religious coexistence. links that Albanians have with religion and, at
This text is focused on the theme of Alba- the same time, show how historical moments
nians’ religious beliefs, mainly the Bektashi have influenced their spiritual choices.
108 God in the Eagles' Country: The Bektashi Order Edlira Osmani
If we examine the era before the birth of it was invaded by the Ottoman Empire, which
Christ, we see that Albania was called “Illyria”. lasted five centuries. During this period many
Illyrians, according to Albanian or non-Albani- events occurred that had an impact on the
an historians, were the descendants of Pellasge religious life of Albanians. This was the time
and Albanian ancestors who had inhabited the of George Kastrioti Scanderbeg, his struggles
Balkan Peninsula in antiquity. At that time, against the Turks and the prevention of the
people were polytheist and Illyrians worshipped Ottoman armies from penetrating Christian
many gods starting with the Sun and ending up Europe. This was also the time of Lek Duk-
with the Stone. I mention the old Illyrians here agjini and his Canon.
because the rites of their belief in the sun, in
the stone, in the land, and so on, are not only Oaths were important institutions of
described in history books but still exist today Albanian traditional law. Albanians swore
in Albania. In The Truth on Albania and the to prove they had not broken the law
Albanians the author Pashko Vasa (Albanian
renaissance poet [1825-1892]) wrote about These two historical figures influenced and
some old religious rites that existed before the inspired Albanians in the following centuries.
time of Christians and Muslims. At that time, The figure of Scanderbeg inspired the Alba-
Albanian oaths similar to those of their ances- nian people to fight for their independence and
tors were: Për këtë gur (“I swear by the stone”), freedom. Lek Dukagjini is well-known for his
Për sytë e ballit (“I swear by my eyes”), or Për canonical book of rules. Even today, mostly in
këtë qiell e dhe (“I swear by this sky and by northern Albania, the rules of Lek Dukagjini
this land”). Although times have changed, even are functional and challenge the laws of the
now we can hear people using these kinds of state. The Canon is an unwritten set of oral
vows. Nowadays, most Albanians swear oaths laws, recorded by Shtjefën Gjeçovi a century
to Ballem Sultan (për atë Ballem Sulltan) and ago and today applied by the regional families
Baba Tomorr (për Baba Tomorr) or the Church in northern Albania, mostly Catholics. The
of Laç (për Kishën e Laçit). Oaths were impor- blood feud, sanctioned in the Canon, is a ma-
tant institutions of Albanian traditional law. jor problem that has mostly overcome state law.
Albanians swore to prove they had not broken But the Canon does not foster the blood feud;
the law. It was well known that the making of on the contrary, it inhibits it. The Canon is a set
a promise or oath between Albanians and non- of rules that regulated how to live in the past
Albanians was of great importance. but, unfortunately, today some of these rules
Later, after the given name Illyria, Albania are misunderstood. The Canon had quite an
became known as “Arbëri”. However, at that important role in the areas where it was applied
time concepts such as state or nationality were and continues to be applied. It was a self-regu-
not well understood by the people. Albanians, lated law. Edith Durham’s words1 well define
despite the different names, were alike. To- the Canon’s impact on people’s lives: “‘Leka
day’s Albanian language, the Indo-European said so…’ is a phrase that had more impact
language, originates from antiquity. During the on people than ten commandments from God,
period when the country was known as Arbëri, while the predictions of imams or priests were
1. Edith Durham (1863-1944) was a British traveller, artist and writer who became famous for her anthropological ac-
counts of life in Albania in the early 20th century.
Quaderns de la Mediterrània 17, 2012: 107-116 109
worthless if they came into conflict with Lek tashi. All these communities have always lived
Dukagjini’s Canon.” in admirable religious harmony by respecting
The historical events continued with the the traditions and the religious celebrations of
struggle of Albanian people for freedom, each faith. Albania has never had religious wars
which somehow even contributed to their re- and Pashko Vasa’s motto that “the Albanian’s
ligion. Albanians’ relationship with God varied religion is Albanianism” is still true in terms of
in different historical periods and was marked the tolerance that exists between the religious
by the banning of religious beliefs by the com- communities in this country.
munist state after the Second World War. The One of the religious communities in Alba-
rekindling of religion in Albanian hearts and nia is Bektashi, which has its own history in
the ability to pray to God without fear was the Albanian land that should be called the
made possible when the only atheist country Torch Land of this belief. Haji Bektash Veli,
in the world since 1967 was finally presented the founder of Bektashism, predicted that the
with democracy in the 1990s. fire of this belief would flicker strongly dur-
There are four religious communities in ing the history of mankind but would never be
Albania: Catholic, Orthodox, Muslim and Bek- extinguished. Today, the Bektashi community
110 God in the Eagles' Country: The Bektashi Order Edlira Osmani
of Albania has its statute, and the first article tury. The individual responsible for establishing
states: “The Bektashi community is an inde- the existing structure of the Bektashi Order was
pendent, non-political community consisting of Balým Sultan (d. 1516), a man commonly re-
the Bektashi clergy of all levels, and the faith ferred to as Pîr-i Sânî or Second Founder.5 Since
in their belief and worshipping of the Creator his time the order has been led by a dedebaba,
find inspiration in the doctrine, traditions, ritu- a great-grandfather, a man appointed to his po-
als and holy religious, moral and philosophical sition by a council of twelve dedes6 (literally
rules of Bektashism.” “grandfather” or kryegjysh in the Albanian
language, the highest grade in the Bektashi
spiritual hierarchy). Balým Sultan (1473-
The Bektashi Order 1516), under the auspices of Sultan Bayazit II,
in 1501 became the leader of the Bektashi at
The Bektashi Order was not a structured or- the headquarters of Bektashism in the Haxhi-
ganisation until the 15th century, nearly two bektash village of Anatolia. He had control over
centuries after the death of Haji Bektash Veli, everything and unified the Bektashi rules. As
who was presumed to be the founder of Bektash- a result of this transformation, Balým Sultan
ism. However, the Bektashi Order of dervishes was considered the second saint and second
originated in a large number of Sufi movements founder. In this period, the important role of
which took place in the Middle East from the the Bektashi Order intensified and it became
11th-12th centuries.2 At this time a large number one of the most influential sects in the Otto-
of preceding missionaries known as the saints of man Empire, from the 17th to 18th century.7
Hoarsen went to Anatolia and led the way for The followers of this sect had their impact on
other dervish groups, such as the Bektashis.3 This spreading the influence of Turks and Islam in
sect was named after Haji Bektash, who accord- countries occupied by the Empire.
ing to some sources was not the real founder but
was a pastor and saint chosen in a later period. The important role of the Bektashi Order
Hoarsen in Iran is presumed to be the origin of intensified and it became one of the most
Haji Bektash and in the second half of the 13th influential sects in the Ottoman Empire,
century he lived in Anatolia. Haji Bektash was from the 17th to 18th century
the writer of Vilajet-Name, whose description
brings to mind the pilgrim dervishes known as In this period, the institutionalisation of the
the Kalandar of Iran or Abdals of Anatolia in Bektashi sect became even more well-known.
the 13th-14th centuries.4 Haji Bektash was con- There was a division in this sect between nov-
sidered the leader of Abdalla (Pîr-i of Abdalla) ices and masters and also a division based on
from the start of his religious activity. hierarchy and level. The lower level was for
However, Bektashism in the form that we casual believers (muhib), the second included
know today did not appear until the 16th cen- the elected (eren) and after they were educated
and accepted as novices they could become der- of the esoteric Qur’an, while the Prophet is seen
vishes and then “fathers” (baba in Albanian). as the vehicle by which the exoteric Qur’an
Before the religious leaders were appointed in became manifest to humanity.” Even though
this hierarchal order they would be formally Bektashi followers make no distinction between
selected by the “grandfathers” (dede or gjysh Muhammad and Ali we cannot presume that
[grandfather]) to whom they were obligated it is the same thing as the Christian concept of
to show loyalty. The whole organisation was the Trinity. Abiva said that Hakk (Reality, i.e.
headed by a single leader, kryegjysh (grandfa- God)-Muhammad-‘Ali form a unified reality
ther), who was supported by key figures who expressing a single truth (Hakikat). Outside
were known as his caliphs.8 the devotion of Imam Ali, inspirations for the
It should be noted that the main features of doctrine of Bektashism are also the twelve
Bektashi religious rites lie in the purity of the Shiite Imams.
heart and spirit of a person. Thus, the purity
of Bektashi can be achieved without following It should be noted that the main features
the Sunni or Shiia forms of worship. The five of Bektashi religious rites lie in the purity
pillars of Islam are not necessarily binding of the heart and spirit of a person. Thus,
to Bektashism. The Qur’an is not interpreted the purity of Bektashi can be achieved
literally by the Bektashi but, rather, explained without following the Sunni or Shiia
allegorically. They sometimes prefer to hear forms of worship
verses of their poets that interpret the Holy
Scripture. The Bektashi Order emphasises the Tekkes are the places where Bektashism
purity of belief rather than external religious clerics stay and pray and these places are
rites and also believes that salvation lies in fol- also frequented by non-clerics. Most Bektashi
lowing perfect examples such as Imam Ali, Haji tekkes have türbes inside them which are the
Bektash and other saints. Three moral rules graves of famous babas and dervishes. Türbes
of Bektashism are good, moral behaviour and are recognised as powerhouses of spirituality,
good deeds (eline, diline, beeline). These are which is essential for Bektashi belief as well as
general orientations claiming that the great- for other Sufi orders.
est divinity can be ensured only through a
continuous pursuit of excellent morality in
everyday life.9 Bektashism in Albania
To better understand the essence of Bek-
tashism we refer to the words of Huseyin The origin of Bektashism in Albania is con-
Abiva, who said: “Since the time of Balým troversial even today. A group of researchers
Sultan in the 16th century, the essence of think that the first presence of Bektashism
Bektashi thought can be best summed up as in Albania dates to no earlier than the end of
follows: Ali ibn Abi Talib, the son-in-law of the the 17th century. This is related with the rela-
Prophet Muhammad, occupies a predominant tively late Islamisation of Albanians. Moreover,
position in their spirituality; Ali is seen as the other scholars think that the Albanians were
mirror image of the Divine; he is the revealer firstly presented with Islam precisely through
8. Ibid., p. 47.
9. Ibid., p. 93.
112 God in the Eagles' Country: The Bektashi Order Edlira Osmani
the Bektashi and Alevi missionary follower were demolished in compliance with this
time before Albania was invaded by Turkish decree, several babas from elsewhere in the
soldiers.10 Another opinion is that Bektashi Balkans found refuge in the sympathetic lands
tekkes were built in Albania during the 15th of the southern part of the country.14 This
century but in reality the Bektashi presence was one of the most difficult periods of Bek-
is a more recent phenomenon, existing since tashism and another is the period when the
the early 19th century. Many scholars were of Turkish state was headed by Kemal Atatürk,
the opinion that the spread of Bektashism in who placed unacceptable restrictions on the
Albania during this period was given an im- Bektashi and the Bektashi centre from Piri
petus by the famous Ali Pasha of Janina (d. was settled in Albania.
1822). However, his connection with this order
is under scrutiny, given that now contemporary One of the most difficult periods of
documents have been discovered showing that Bektashism is the period when the Turkish
he favoured the Halveti and the Sa’ditarikats state was headed by Kemal Atatürk, who
over the Bektashis.11 placed unacceptable restrictions on the
Moreover, the strong relation between Bek- Bektashi
tashism and the Janissary Corps must also be
noted. The Janissaries constituted the core of In her book Le bektachisme en Albanie,
the Ottoman army, and its members, mainly Nathalie Clayer says the following about the
from Christian backgrounds converted to Is- establishment of the Bektashi Order in Alba-
lam, were overwhelmingly Bektashis. Known nia: “In this way, Albanian’s Bektashi in the
as the Sons of Haji Bektash (Haji Bektash wake of the disintegration of the Ottoman
Ogullari), their uniforms, organisation and Empire became a large group with influence
leadership were connected with the Order.12 in political areas, due to the incredibly power-
A more direct motive of the spread of Bek- ful impact of their clergy on the people.” This
tashism is found in the decree issued by Sul- group was distanced, on the one hand, from
tan Mahmud II in 1826 that throughout the the Turkish Bektashi and, on the other, from
Empire abolished the Janissary Corps as well Sunni Muslims, due to the fact that they had
the Bektashi Order due to the close intercon- conflicts over the independence of Albania
nection between the two.13 and the approach that they offered to the
At that time, the reason for the prohibi- John-Turks union. As a result, the Bektashi
tion of Bektashi by the Sultan was considered brotherhood, due to its potential and its identi-
heresy but in reality it was a political decision ty, was now ready to emerge as an independent
because both the Janissaries and the Bektashis religious community in the new Albania.”15
were hotbeds of conservative opposition to the What Clayer claims is true because exactly in
Sultan’s reformist programmes. Despite the this period of the 19th century the Bektashi
fact that a lot of Bektashi tekkes in Albania community held a position against the Turks
10. Sokrat Ahmataj, Bektashizmi nën smogun e një libri, Botim, Urtësia, 1999, p. 82.
11. Huseyin Abiva, op. cit.
12. Olsi Jazexhi, The Bektashi Tarikah of Dervishes, 2007, http://www.reocities.com/djalosh/bektashi.pdf.
13. Huseyin Abiva, op. cit.
14. Ibid.
15. Nathalie Clayer, Le bektachisme en Albanie / Bektashizmi në Shqipëri, Tirana, albPaper, 2004, p. 296.
Quaderns de la Mediterrània 17, 2012: 107-116 113
and closely related with the nationalist cause. for national unity and brotherhood between
Tekkes became centres of Albanian language Albanians. The twenty-four songs of this epic
teaching, which was often banned by Turks poem Qerbelaja are written to lead the last
and by the dominance of the Greek Orthodox song about Albanian issues and Albanians.17
Church in some areas of southern Albania. The poetic style is similar to another heroic
These places of Bektashi worship played an poem The History of Scanderbeg written by
exceptional role in the renaissance (rilindja) the same poet. The intertwining of nationalism
of Albanian nationalism. with religion in Naim’s poetry was important
We are presented with nationalism in the for that time. Naim was Bektashi but above all
written works of Naim Frasheri, who was a he announced how important it was for the
poet and a prominent activist of the Albanian country at that time of suffering and wars to
national movement in the 19th century. He proclaim the slogan: “There is no nation with-
wrote The Journal of the Bektashi, which out religion.”
can be considered as the very first official
document of the Albanian Bektashi commu- We are presented with nationalism in the
nity. Naim Frasheri wrote a very well-known written works of Naim Frasheri,
poem for Bektashism, Qerbelaja [Kerbela], who was a poet and a prominent activist of
published for the first time in 1898. This the Albanian national movement in
poem was a retelling of the story of Kerbela the 19th century
in which Imam Hossein, the son of Imam
Ali and grandson of the Prophet Muham- Naim tried to mobilise the Shiite orienta-
mad, was killed. This poem should be seen tion of the Bekatshi and to announce his oppo-
from two perspectives: firstly, as a poem de- sition to the Ottoman regime and to articulate
scribing a very tragic event and keeping alive a specific Muslim identity for Albanians. He
its memory which is of great importance for thought that the Bektashi were heterodox and
the Bektashi community, and, secondly, as a syncretistic so they would be able to overcome
political allegory. Naim Frasheri, in the wake religious divisions in Albania and establish
of a long tradition of eastern literature and a bridge between differences of Islam and
philosophy, tried to express and manifest his Christianity.18 Moreover, based on the defini-
illuminist and humanist views. More than a tion often given for Bektashism as a pantheist
retelling of a historical event, Qerbelaja is a doctrine, Naim Frasheri in Lulet e Veres [Sum-
moralistic and intellectual poem, a revelation mer Flowers] wrote that a true believer should
of moral and humanist principles, a call for not search for God in heaven or on Earth but
purity and perfection. In this way, mankind should look elsewhere: “Seek elsewhere for
can enjoy life on earth and find the strength God, the True One and the Great. He is near
to overcome the worst events.16 to me. He is in me!”
The last song of this poem is also notable Bektashism in Albania, similar to other
as the author speaks only about the problems religions, underwent a series of persecutions
that Albania was facing during that period, before and after independence until 1990, with
such as education and language and the need the democratisation of Albania.
24. Ibid.
25. Ibid.
26. The Constitution of the Republic of Albania, Article 10.
116 God in the Eagles' Country: The Bektashi Order Edlira Osmani
Moreover, in the Eagles’ Country the re- of earth from Abaz Ali’s tomb in Kerbela and
newal of religious celebrations and holidays put it in Tomorri. Since that time, according
resulted in mutual harmony between different to folklore, Tomorri was considered the second
religious communities. Albanians mark every tomb of Abaz Ali, saint of the Bektashi Order.
religious ceremony together. They go on pil- Naim Frasheri expressed this symbol of Al-
grimages to the church of Shen Ndout (Saint banian faith in verse: “Abaz Ali held Tomorr,
Ndou) in Laç of Albania to celebrate the mem- came close to us, Albania didn’t remain poor,
ory of Christian saints or they go to Ballenja of God blessed us.”
Martanesh to celebrate the Bektashi saints. In
these holy places affected by the beautiful and
wonderful landscapes the people feel harmony References
in everything that surrounds them.
Every year Bektashi believers, Sunni Mus- ABIVA, H., Bektashism and Its Presence in Albanian
lims and Christians gather in the mountain of Lands, http://bektashiorder.com/bektashism-in-
Tomorri to celebrate and to pray for prosperity. albania.
Since ancient times this sacred mountain in the AHMATAJ, S., Bektashizmi nën smogun e një libri,
Botim, Urtësia, 1999.
south of Albania was called “The Throne of
CLAYER, N., Le bektachisme en Albanie / Bektashizmi
Gods” and was considered by Albanian writers
në Shqipëri, Tirana, albPaper, 2004.
and foreign writers as the Olympus of Albania DOJA, A., Bektashizmi në Shqipëri, Tirana, AIIS,
or Dodona, the sanctuary of divine Gods. 2008.
Referring to the tradition, Haji Bektashi JAZEXHI, O., The Bektashi Tarikah of Dervishes, 2007,
himself was interested in Tomorri Mountain http://www.reocities.com/djalosh/bektashi.pdf.
when he saw the pilgrims that went to pray to LUBONJA, F., “Feja dhe Shqiptarët”, Shekulli, No. 291,
a pagan God every summer. He took a handful 21st October 2001, pp. 14-15.