BIOPOLYMERS IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Dr. Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury,

Ex-Professor and HOD, (Textile), Govt. College of Engg. and Textile Technology, Serampore
(W.B.)
Address: Ushajit, P.O. Belu-Milki -712223, Dt. Hooghly (W.B.)
e-mail: akrc2008@yahoo.in
CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION
2. MERITS AND DEMERITS
2.1 Advantages of Biopolymers
2.2 Disadvantages of Biopolymers
3. APPLICATION OF BIOPOLYMERS
4. METHODS OF MANUFACTURE
5. CLASSIFICATION OF BIOPOLYMERS
6. IMPORTANT BIOPOLYMERS
6.1 Soybean Fibre
6.2. Poly(Alkylenedicarboxylate) Polyesters (APDS)
6.3. Bio-Polyamide (Nylon)
6.4. Bio-polyethylene
6.5. Biodegradable Polyurethanes (PURs)
6.6. Polylactic acid (PLA)
6.7. Bacterial Polyesters
6.8. Sodium alginate Fibre
6.9. Chitin and chitosan
7. CONCLUSIONS
8. REFERENCES

Abstract
The basic raw material for textile manufacturing, textile fibres, are not inherently green. They are
biodegradable, but more-biodegradable polymers can be made by biological means. Biopolymers
often have a well-defined structure. In contrast, most synthetic polymers possesses much simpler and
more random (or stochastic) structure.
Biodegradable polymers have become of great interest in recent years mainly for biomedical
applications. Biodegradable polymers break down in physiological environments by macromolecular
chain scission into smaller fragments, and ultimately into simple stable end products. The use of
biopolymers, i.e. fibres and plastics made from corn, sugar, starch and other renewable raw materials,
has expanded in recent years.

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6.2. Keywords: Textile fibre, Biopolymer, bacterial polyester, Polylactic acid, Chitin and chitosan
1. INTRODUCTION
The biopolymers have been considered in the 1940s and Henry Ford used these biopolymers in the
construction of a car. Biopolymers are produced by biological systems (i.e. microorganisms, plants
and animals), or chemically synthesized from biological starting materials (e.g. sugars, starch, natural
fats or oils, etc.).They are more biodegradable than vegetable or animal derived natural fibres.
Biopolymers will account for just over 1% of polymers by 2015 (Doug, 2010). However, the expected
growth is 3-4 times in the coming 7-8 years.
2. MERITS AND DEMERITS
Biopolymers slowly entering various polymer markets namely textile, plastic etc. Their advantages
are sometimes shadowed by their disadvantages, at least, at the present state of development. Before
selection of a biopolymer for a particular end use, both merits and demerits are to be carefully
considered.
2.1. Advantages of Biopolymers
• They are fully biobased.
• Much lower “oil (petroleum)” is needed for production
• Lower amount of green house gases emits during their production. Ingeo® (Polylactic acid or PLA
from Natureworks) requires 60% less greenhouse gases and 50% less non-renewable energy than
other polymers (Ditty, 2013).
2.2. Disadvantages of Biopolymers
 The competition for biological sources of food and fuel
 Additional sorting during recycling to avoid contamination.
 Performance still inferior than oil based polymers – poorer heat and moisture resistance.
3. APPLICATION OF BIOPOLYMERS
Biopolymers have versatile applications. A few are mentioned below:
 Drug delivery systems (medical field),
 Wound closure and healing products (medical field),
 Surgical implant devices (medical field).
 Bioresorbable scaffolds for tissue engineering.
 Food containers, soil retention sheeting, agriculture film, waste bags and packaging material
in general.
 Non-woven biopolymers can also be used in agriculture, filtration, hygiene and protective
clothing.
The following biopolymers have high potential for various applications:
 Starch based polymers (packaging)
 Poly Lactide - PLA

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  Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA)/ Polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB)
 (co)PA – (castor oil based - PA11)
 Polybutylene succinate (PBS) and biopolyester based copolymers
 Polyethylene Furanoate (PEF) - alternative for PET, made from two building blocks,
Furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA) and Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG).
4. METHODS OF MANUFACTURE
Various methods for preparing bio-based polymers from renewable resources are as follows:
 Extraction and separation of agricultural resources.
 Partial modification of natural bio-based polymers (e.g., starch)
 Production by microorganism (fermentation)/conventional chemistry followed by
polymerization (e.g., polylactic acid, polybutylene succinate)
 Direct bacterial fermentation processes (e.g., polyhydroxyalkanoates).
5. CLASSIFICATION OF BIOPOLYMERS
Biopolymers can be broadly classified into three groups namely:
 Polynucleotides (RNA and DNA), which are long polymers composed of 13 or more
nucleotide monomers;
 Polypeptides, which are short polymers of amino acids; and
 Polysaccharides, which are often linear bonded polymeric carbohydrate. This group includes
alginates, Microbial cellulose ( MC ), Chitin and Chitosan,
6. IMPORTANT BIOPOLYMERS
A large number of biopolymers are available naturally or manufactured. However, only a few of them
have been commercially. A few important biopolymers are discussed here.
6.1. Soybean Fibre
Soybean fibre is a man-made regenerated protein fibre from soybean protein blended with PVA. It is
biodegradable, non-allergic, and micro-biocidal. The clothing made from the soy fibre is less durable
but has a soft, elastic handle. Soybean protein is a globular protein and it has to undergo denaturation
by alkali/heat/enzyme and degradation in order to convert the protein solution into a spinnable dope.
6.2. Poly(Alkylenedicarboxylate) Polyesters (APDS)
Monomers for aliphatic APDs can be petroleum derived (i.e. not renewable) or biomass derived (i.e.
renewable), the former being the major route. Both can be prepared to the same degree of purity, but
the later is still costlier.
Common dicarboxylic and diol monomers found in APDs are shown in Figure 1. They include
succinic acid (SA), adipic acid (AA), ethylene glycol (EG) and 1,4butanediol (1,4BD). Polybutylene
succinate (PBS) is an aliphatic polyester with similar properties to those of PET. PBS is produced by
condensation of succinic acid and 1,4-butanediol.
[Place Figure 1 here]

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PBS is a semicrystalline polyester with a melting point higher than that of PLA. Its mechanical and
thermal properties depend on the crystal structure and the degree of crystallinity. The Tg is
approximately −32°C, and the melting temperature is approximately 115°C. In comparison with PLA,
PBS is tougher in nature but with a lower rigidity and Young's modulus (Babu et al., 2013)
Biosuccinic acid (SA) is produced directly by fermentation of bioengineered yeast and E. coli.
Catalytic hydrogenation of biosuccinic acid produces 1,4 butanediol, which can also be produced by
fermentation. Bioethylene glycol is produced from bioethylene, a product of catalytic dehydration of
fermentation derived ethanol. Bioadipic acid can be produced by a number of fermentation based
processes.
Application: Aliphatic poly(alkylenedicarboxylates) are used in polyurethanes for coatings, adhesives
and foams; flexible packaging; agricultural films; compostable bags; and in blends and composites
with other biobased polymers to enhance properties (Gotro, 2013).
6.3. Bio-Polyamide (Nylon)
Castor oil has been a non-food crop source of biopolymers. Polyamide 11 from castor oil was
patented in 1944 by French scientists and from 2004 it is marketed by Arkema as Rilsan for
sportwear. Toray and Radici are now marketing another castor oil-derived polyamide, PA 6-10. Sofia
launched a hybrid polyamide fibre, Greenfil by texturising 70% synthetic PA 6 and 30% biosourced
PA 10. A greenfil sock is 5-10 times stronger, but 2-3 times costlier too (Sofia, 2012)
6.4. Bio-polyethylene
Polyethylene (PE) is an important engineering polymer traditionally produced from fossil resources.
Bio-based polyethylene has exactly the same chemical, physical, and mechanical properties as
petrochemical polyethylene. The sequence for biological method is as follows:
Fermentation of sugarcane/sugar beet/starch crop  bioethanol  distilled at high temperature over a
solid catalyst  ethylene  microbial PE or green PE
6.5. Biodegradable Polyurethanes (PURs)
PURs are known for toughness, durability, biocompatibility, and biostability. Unlike polyester
derivatives, polyether-based PURs are quite resistant to degradation by microorganisms.
Biodegradable PURs employed as thermoplastics are basically synthesized using a diisocyanate, a
diol, and a chain-extension agent. The first representative example avoiding diisocyanate is the
reaction between a cyclic carbonate and an amine rendering the urethane bond. In particular, the
polyaddition reaction between L-lysine and a bi-functional five-member cyclic carbonate in the
presence of a strong base. Some have reported the enzymatic synthesis of PEUs by enzymatic
polyesterification (Lendlein and Sisson, 2011).
6.6. Polylactic acid (PLA)
PLA is known since 1845 but not commercialized until early 1990. It is the only melt-processable
fibre from annually renewable natural resources such as corn starch (in the United
States), tapioca products (roots, chips or starch mostly in Asia) or sugar cane (in the rest of world). It

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is a thermoplastic, aliphatic polyester similar to synthetic polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The
sequence of manufacture steps is as follows:
Corn  starch  unrefined dextrose  fermentation  D- and L-lactic acid 
monomer production  D-, L- and meso-lactides  polymer (PLA) production  polymer
modification  fibre, film, plastic, ]bottle manufacture.
The polymerization reaction is shown in Equation 1.
[Place Equation 1 here]
PLA has high strength, good drape, wrinkle- and UV light- resistance properties. Its melting point is ±
170 °C and density is 1.25 g/cm³. The limiting oxygen index is 25 higher than PET and much higher
PP. PLA, therefore, possess reduced flammability, less flame retardants. Water uptake is low (0.4 -
0.6%) higher than PET and PP. it possess good durability under a range of conditions.
Application: woven shirts (ironability), microwavable trays, hot-fill applications and even engineering
plastics. Biomedical applications include as sutures, stents, dialysis media and drug delivery devices.
PLA can be used for rigid thermoforms, films, labels, and bottles, but not for hot-fill containers or
gaseous drinks such as beer or sodas.
6.7. Bacterial Polyesters
The bacterial polyesters, polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) with poly-(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate (P3HB) as
the first homologue (Figure 2) produced by microorganisms. Bacterial storage compound
polyhydroxybutyrate copolymer (PHBV) named “Biopol” is developed by Zeneca Bioproducts
through fermentation of PH3B followed by copolymerisation with PHV. It is high molecular weight
polyester and thermoplastic (melts at 1800C) and can be melt spun into biocompatible and
biodegradable fibres suitable for surgical use.
[Place Figure 2 here]
Advantages include production from fully renewable resources, fast and complete biodegradability
and excellent strength and stiffness. The disadvantages are high thermal degradability, brittleness and
high price (Chod´ak, 2009).
6.8. Sodium alginate Fibre
Sodium alginate is a polymeric acid, composed of two monomer units
(i) L-guluronic acid( G) (ii) D- mannuronic acid (M) (Figure 3)
It is non toxic and non irritant. Alginate fibre generates a moist healing environment and is used for
wound dressing. Calcium alginate is created by adding aqueous calcium chloride to aqueous sodium
alginate.
[Place Figure 3 here]
6.9. Chitin and chitosan
Both polysaccharides may be regarded as derivatives of cellulose, where chitin bears an acetamido
group and chitosan bears a amino group instead of the C-2 hydroxyl group in cellulose (Figure 4).

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Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitosan is a linear polyamine having reactive amino
and hydroxyl groups. It chelates many transitional metal ions. Currently, the commercial source of
chitin is shrimp shells. But the polymer also occurs in the shells of crabs and lobsters.
Derivatives of chitin have been used to impart antistatic and soil-repellent finishing to the textiles.
While chitin is used in printing and finishing preparations, while chitosan is able to remove dyes from
discharge water. Both have remarkable contribution to medical related textile sutures, threads and
fibres.
[Place Figure 3 here]
7. CONCLUSIONS
Biopolymers are very important in all aspects of medicine, surgery and healthcare and extend of
application on which the materials used because of the versatility of biopolymer. Oil is the fuel that
drives the global economy, but oil reserves are going down. And there are major concerns about the
future because of our great dependency on oil and its impact on the environment.
REFERENCES:
Babu R. P. et al. Progress in Biomaterials, volume 2, issue 8, 2013
http://www.progressbiomaterials.com/content/2/1/8)
Chod´ak I. Sustainable Textiles: Life Cycle and Environmental Impact, R.S. Blackburn, ed.,
Woodhead, Cambridge, UK, p.88, 2009..
Ditty Sarah. 7 biopolymer eco fabrics you need to know about,
http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/, 12 August, 2013.
Doug S. Bioplastics: technologies and global markets. BCC research reports PLS050A, 2010.
Gotro J. Aliphatic Poly(alkylenedicarboxylate) Polyesters: Organic or Not Organic? Polymer
Innovation Blog, http://polymerinnovationblog.com/ , April 15, 2013.
Lendlein A. and Sisson A. Handbook of Biodegradable Polymers. Wiley-VSH, Weinheim, Germany,
2011.
Sofia. New yields in castor oil polyamides. WSA, May-June, file:///H:/biopolymer%20conf/ , 2012