Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Vilnius
August - November 2017
Scenic city
Viewpoints to capture the Old Town
Verkiai
A hauntingly grand day out
Jewish Vilna
How a once-thriving community
was created
inyourpocket.com
N°122 - €1
Contents / Foreword
Liepāja 72
Vilnius in 48 Hours 5
Discover neighbouring Latvia’s hip seaside city
Arriving & Getting Around 6
Jewish Vilnius 74
Where to get off and how to stay afloat
Vilnius Basics 11
Views of Vilnius 77
History 14
Trakai 78
Lithuania’s former capital uncovered
What’s On 16
Art, photography and the rest Shopping 82
Restaurants 24 Leisure 88
The capital’s kitchens in all their glory Health 92
Cafés 42 Directory 93
Nightlife 48 Hotels 96
Where to party in Vilnius
Maps & Index
A grand day out at Verkiai 57 City centre map 100 - 101
City map 102 - 103
Sightseeing 58
Street register / Index of venues 104 - 105
A comprehensive guide Lithuania map 106
The Old Town from the air © Matas Jankauskas, Virš Visko
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Back on Didžioji Street, either via steps from the occasionally Next wander lanes like Gaono, Zydu and Stikliu with their
busy Tymo Market to the Bastion or crossing Bokšto, head tiny shops and cafés for a sense of the once huge Jewish
south to go Baroque hopping between churches while community tragically annihilated during the war. There
getting diverted to shops selling linen, amber, glass, clay used to be so many prayer houses, synagogues and
and other souvenirs. See the Basilian Gate with its all-seeing workshops where trades like glassblowing were practiced.
eye, the three mummified saints inside the Orthodox Nearby, Vokiečių Street is loaded with cafés and restaurants
Church of the Holy Spirit, St Theresa’s glorious interior if it’s for every budget.
open, and then reverently climb steps through a streetside
door, on the left towards the top of Aušros Vartų Street, to After you’ve eaten, pass Baroque St Catherine’s to find
come face-to-face with the miraculous image of the Virgin two museums presenting grim but essential insights into
Mary and her many silver hearts inside the Gates of Dawn. Lithuania’s recent past. The Holocaust Museum, set inside
a green wooden house up a tiny lane from Pamėnkalnio,
After all this sightseeing it’s time for dinner, wine and is as much about the once thriving Jewish communities
local beer. The Old Town has dozens of stylish upmarket as the calamitous way they were lost. A little further on,
restaurants in the vicinity like the fish-centric Žuvinė at the the Genocide Museum, set within the former cells of the
back of the Town Hall, but if you’re looking for something much-feared KGB building, reveals in chilling detail the
more affordable try the authentic Italian food at Sorrentino brutal way the Soviets treated political prisoners until well
on Aušros Vartų or homely Namai on Subačiaus. Cosy bars into the late 1980s. In the square opposite stood a gigantic
line the way too, like Dirty Duck, or the wine bar Notre Lenin until it was removed by crane to cheering crowds in
Vie. Alternative bars lie close to the Gates of Dawn too, like 1991. But now you’re free – to wander up and down central
Bukowski, Kablys and Peronas. Gedimino Prospect at will. Westwards will take you past
restaurants and upmarket clothes stores to the angular
DAY 2 - OLD TOWN AND BEYOND Parliament building and over the River Neris to Žvėrynas,
Now it’s time to look at Vilnius in a bit more depth, with whose grid of leafy streets and occasional tumbledown
glances at its enlightened past and also at more troubled wooden houses are fun to explore. To eat here, try Panama,
times. Vilnius University is fascinating with its maze of or walk back down Gedimino for tasty grub at Carre or big
courtyards and corridors, which you’re free to explore burgers at Boom Burgers, then beers at Craft & Draft and
though you may be charged a small fee at either of its cocktails in Paparazzi (reopening in late September).
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 5
Arriving & Getting Around
ARRIVING IN VILNIUS
VILNIUS AIRPORT The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very different
VILNIUS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT experiences indeed, making your first few minutes in the
(TARPTAUTINIS VILNIAUS ORO UOSTAS) city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements are
Vilnius International Airport, situated taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius In Your
approximately 5km south of the city centre, is Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus
small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and and train stations for just €1.
bar can be found above the main entrance for
fond farewells and devilishly expensive cognac. A BY BUS
limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops and cafés Vilnius’ bus station (autobusų stotis) is located less than
are located the other side of customs control. 1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit
Free wireless internet is available throughout the perfectly safe area. Most facilities are located inside one
airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport large grey building and include kiosks and shops for
for information on tickets), take Nº3G from snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards,
Lukiškių Aikštė (Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto stop), downstairs toilets (€0.40) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency
Nº88 or nightbus Nº88N (Arkikatedra stop), exchange, use the Medicinos bank across the street and
or Nº1 from the train station. You can also use just to the right of the train station. A bagažinė for left
the shuttle train service that departs from the luggage is located outside at the far end of the platforms.
train station every 30 minutes between around Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by
06:00 and 21:30. Buy a ticket on board the train turning left on exiting the station and walking down the hill
for just €0.72. A taxi from Old Town currently (Sodų). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can
costs around €15 using a hotel-booked firm, be found in the immediate area, all going off in different
although you can pay considerably less if you directions around the city and none of them offering a lot
can get a friendly local to order you one from a of help for people who don’t speak Lithuanian. Among the
cheaper company. By calling the right company useful services going through the city centre are trolleybus
in advance (try tel. (+370) 52 66 66 66) a recent Nº2 and bus Nº1G. Buy a ticket from the driver for €1, punch
visitor to the city managed to make the trip for it in the ticket puncher, and off you go. Taxis are parked
just €5.QRodūnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 61 24 here and there. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave.
44 42, www.vno.lt. Open 24hrs. Expect to pay €6 or even more for a short trip to Old Town.
Calling one in advance is the best option.
6 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Getting Around
BY PLANE
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro
Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if you’re
landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities
are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting your
luggage enter through the electric sliding doors into the
Arrivals Hall, an experience which is not unlike stepping into
the ticket hall of 19th-century provincial train station. There
you’ll find a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid
mobile phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and
a small tourist information kiosk. Toilets are to the left, and
car rental companies to the right. Getting to town A taxi
to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked outside the
arrivals terminal will cost about €15 or possibly considerably
more depending on the cheek of the driver. Calling one in
advance will cost a lot less. If you don’t know how to do it
yourself ask the people in the tourist information kiosk to For business
or leisure,
order one for you. If you’re travelling to the city centre and
want to save a small fortune, take public transport. Bus Nº88
JAZZEXPRESS
Qtel. 1428, en.jazzexpress.lt. €0.72/km.
TRAIN SCHEDULE
Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.
07:58 13:48 KALININGRAD 13:47 18:35
04:40(1) 05:56 KAUNAS 05:02(3) 06:31
04:45 06:22 KAUNAS 05:20 06:59 Hustle and bustle at the train station
06:20 07:37 KAUNAS 06:23(1) 07:38
07:30 08:53 KAUNAS 07:15 08:47 TRAINS
09:04 10:40 KAUNAS 09:45 11:11 Vilnius’ main train station (geležinkelio stotis) handles
10:53 12:10 KAUNAS 10:55 12:34 services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as
11:30 13:06 KAUNAS 14:40 15:49 well as international trains to Belarus, Russia and Latvia.
15:00 16:33 KAUNAS 16:10 17:44 Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the
right of the main entrance. Tickets for international trains
16:45 18:28 KAUNAS 17:21 19:00
can also be purchased from a small office inside and
17:55 13:23 KAUNAS 19:10 20:43 immediately to the left of the main entrance. The general
18:48 20:27 KAUNAS 20:10 21:36 rule is that tickets stop being sold 10 minutes before a train
19:25 20:46 KAUNAS 21:49 23:05 is due to depart. With the exception of some international
06:45 11:02 KLAIPĖDA 06:40 10:52 services, tickets can be bought on board trains from the
09:45 13:57 KLAIPĖDA 10:30 14:36 conductor for which a €1.45 commission is charged.
16:40 20:44 KLAIPĖDA 16:05 20:17
TRAIN STATION (GELEŽINKELIO STOTIS)
17:40 21:57 KLAIPĖDA 17:57 22:01 Buses are usually quicker, more flexible and more
01:51(2) 06:10 MINSK 03:00 07:23 popular than trains in Lithuania, but rail services to some
7:15 09:45 MINSK 08:00 10:30 places, such as Kaunas, are generally excellent.QI‑12,
15:58 18:45 MINSK 10:00 13:42 Geležinkelio 16, tel. (+370) 70 05 51 11, www.litrail.lt.
19:10 21:40 MINSK 19:52 22:22 Ticket office open 24hrs. J
20:10 00:26 MINSK 21:44(4) 02:14
20:10 09:10 MOSCOW 17:20 07:23
04:50 05:28 TRAKAI 05:45 06:24
TOURIST INFORMATION
07:40 08:17 TRAKAI 08:37 09:16 VILNIUS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER
12:35 13:13 TRAKAI 13:38 14:17 (GO VILNIUS, VŠĮ)
18:12 18:51 TRAKAI 19:51 20:30 Tour bookings for groups and individuals, audio
20:45 21:24 TRAKAI 21:40 22:19 guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, tourist-related
publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events.lt),
¹ Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. ² Sat, Sun. taxis and accommodation booking. English-, German-,
³ Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. ⁴ Mon, Wed, Sun. Polish- and Russian-speaking staff. See the extensive
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to website for more information.QH‑9, Vilniaus 22, tel.
press and subject to change during the lifetime of this (+370) 52 62 96 60, fax (+370) 52 62 81 69, www.
guide. More information at www.litrail.lt vilnius-tourism.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Also at
Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), Rodūnios Kelias 2-1 (Vilnius
Valid until November 30, 2017. International Airport). JAW
There are exceptions - and we take pride in exposing such well as at bus stops. Smoking here can leave you open to
places in our listings - but as a general rule private-sector a fine of between €5.80 and €14.48. If the ban is successful
service in Lithuania (particularly Vilnius) has improved in these areas, other parts of the capital could also be
beyond description during the 25-odd years we have been declared puff-free.
publishing Vilnius In Your Pocket.
TOILETS
SMOKING Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the
Lithuanians by and large like a cigarette (and compared to toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you
countries like the UK cigarettes are cheap) but that has not use their facilities, although some have started to enforce
stopped the country adopting some tough anti-smoking a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a
legislation. Smoking is banned in almost all indoor spaces, few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked
including cafes, bars, pubs and clubs, except in carefully with plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from
separated smoking rooms: look for the smoking symbol in days gone by that refuses to go away even in many of
our listings. Smoking is also now banned in two outdoor the swankiest establishments is the provision of a filthy
spaces in Vilnius: Kudirka Square and Bernardinų Sodas, as bucket, kept next to the toilet, and used for the collection
of spent paper.
MARKET VALUES
Prices in Lithuania vary but can seem quite high
VISAS
compared to neighbouring countries like Poland. Here Lithuania is a member of both the European Union and
are some typical everyday products and prices. the Schengen border-free travel area. Visitors from the
EU may stay in Lithuania for as long as they like, while
McDonald's Big Mac € 2.65 visitors from 30 or so other countries (including Australia,
Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea
Snickers € 0.45 and the United States) don’t require a visa to stay for up
0.5ltr vodka (shop) € 7.00 to 90 days within a six month period. A visa issued by or
0.5ltr beer (shop) € 1.05 for any Schengen country is valid in Lithuania. For more
information, including the full-list of visa-free countries,
Loaf of white bread € 0.60 take a look at www.urm.lt.
20 Marlboros € 3.50
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (95) € 1.15 EXCHANGE RATES
Local transport ticket (1 journey) €1
Cinema ticket €6 1£=€1.07 1US$=€0.83 (August 30, 2017)
Central Vilnius has some incredible open spaces to stage a concert or festival | © Domantas Kancleris
Not surprisingly for a capital city there’s a lot of culture to OLD CRAFTS WORKSHOP OF THE FINE CRAFTS
be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music, ASSOCIATION OF VILNIUS (VILNIAUS DAILIŲJŲ
a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional AMATŲ ASOCIACIJOS SENŲJŲ AMATŲ
faded Western rock star. Going to concerts and festivals in DIRBTUVĖS)
and around the city is a relatively inexpensive affair, with An extraordinary organisation dedicated to both preserving
concert tickets often costing less than €15. Standards tend and promoting a wide range of traditional fine crafts
to be high and the variety of events taking place is getting including practictioners such as jewellers, ceramicists,
bigger every year. For information on purchasing tickets, book-binders and leather workers. Operating out of studios
ask your hotel reception or speak to the nice people at and workshops spread around the city centre, the nice
Vilnius Tourist Information. Read about more events and people who run the organisation arrange a fascinating
buy tickets online at the excellent www.bilietai.lt, www. array of things for visitors to see and do including lectures,
tiketa.lt. tours, hands-on workshops and even a few events for
children. Visiting is a good opportunity to buy some unique
and special gifts and souvenirs. Their website has good
ARTS & CRAFTS information in English.QJ‑10, Savičiaus 10, tel. (+370)
AMATŲ GILDIJA 52 12 51 69, www.seniejiamatai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
The ceramics artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost Closed Mon. JA
completely blind yet manages to produce wonderful work
from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic UŽUPIO MUSEUM & GALLERY OF SMITHERY
stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. (UŽUPIO KALVYSTĖS GALERIJA - MUZIEJUS)
Feel free to have a poke around. Most of the stuff on display A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the
is for sale.QI‑10, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 64 53 80 44/ blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a
(+370) 52 12 05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. Open 11:00 - unique gift or souvenir or ask about the regular workshops.
19:00. Closed Mon, Sun, Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. J QK‑9, Užupio 26, tel. (+370) 52 15 37 57/(+370) 69 81
41 22, www.kalvystesgalerija.eu. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat
MENO NIŠA 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this
combined gallery and workshop presents some of the best
examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths.QH‑10,
J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 52 31 38 11, www.
What’s going on?
menonisa.lt/en. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Closed Mon, Sun. J
16 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
What’s On
CINEMAS
Films are usually shown in their original language with
Lithuanian subtitles. Animated films are usually dubbed.
SACRUM
FORUM CINEMAS VINGIS
Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated
multiplex close to the city centre. There’s also a small new
hall screening arthouse and foreign-language films.QE‑10,
Savanorių 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Box office
open 10:30 - 22:00. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). JA
MULTIKINO
Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre.
QH‑1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 62 05 15 58/(+370)
52 19 53 76, www.multikino.lt. Box office open 10:00 -
22:00. A
SKALVIJA
The best place in the city for arthouse and underground
cinema, and meeting people who like it in the attached café-
bar. It has been going for aeons and is well known among
film lovers for its distinctive repertoire. Zooming in on non-
commercial European and world cinema, it’s also a venue
for festivals, retrospectives and special screenings. One of its
many events is the Vilnius Documentary Film Festival at the
end of September, the main documentary film platform in the ET PROFANUM
Baltics that always screens rich and captivating films.QH‑7,
A. Goštauto 2, tel. (+370) 52 61 05 05, www.skalvija.lt.
Box office open an hour before the event. JW
CONCERT HALLS
COMPENSA
Located on a small street some way north of the city
centre, this new concert hall hosts music concerts,
theatre, cultural events, conferences, parties and buffet
receptions.QKernavės 84, tel. (+370) 61 88 51 80/1588,
www.compensakoncertusale.lt.
CLASSICS
STRAIGHT
TO YOUR
HEART
Fare range:
€3.50–39.00 vaidilosklasika
WWW.VAIDILOSKLASIKA.LT
Buy the season
ALL CONCERTS ticket and make
AUTUMN AND sure you don’t
miss a sound.
WINTER
2017
VENUE: VAIDILA THEATRE
IN VILNIUS
A. JAKŠTO G. 9
ON
ETS
#KLASIKA21AMZIUJE
TICK NOW!
SALE
GRAND OPENING
OF THE SEASON Lukas Asmik Petras
Jauna Geniušas Grigorian Geniušas
PIANO SOPRANO PIANO
Muzika 4 October, 7.00 p.m. at 10 December, 6.00 p.m. 12 December, 6.00 p.m.
VARTAI
Arguably the best and most influential contemporary
gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top
Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises
exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended.QI‑9,
Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel. (+370) 52 12 Danske Bank marathon © Augustas Didžgalvis
29 49/(+370) 65 78 24 09, www.galerijavartai.lt. Open
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. J PHOTOGRAPHY
PROSPEKTO GALLERY (PROSPEKTO GALERIJA)
VILNIUS PICTURE GALLERY Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union,
(VILNIAUS PAVEIKSLŲ GALERIJA) Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth
Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkevičiai the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to
(Chodkiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves
is of the type in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies who submit badly presented work that’s often lit with no
shuttle you around from room to room like a pinball. thought to the work. There’s also a small shop where you
Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a great collection of local can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many
painting, drawing and sculpture plus a couple of rooms famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary
stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of it representing the photographers past and present.QG‑7, Gedimino 43, tel.
last several hundred years of achievement. They also put on (+370) 52 61 83 38, www.photography.lt. Open 12:00 -
temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
checking out.QJ‑9, Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 52 12 42 58,
www.ldm.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. J FESTIVALS
01.07 - 30.12 » CHRISTOPHER SUMMER
FESTIVAL
Various styles of music including classical, jazz, singing
poetry and pop are performed during one of the city’s best-
loved festivals. Find out more at www.kristupofestivaliai.
lt.Q€9.00 - 56.00, www.kristupofestivaliai.lt/en.
SPECIAL EVENTS
16.02 - 16.02 » CEREMONY OF THE
TRUMPETER OF INDEPENDENCE
In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the declaration
of Lithuanian independence on February 16, 1918, every
evening at 7.18pm (19:18) until the anniversary a trumpet
player will appear at the window of the Palace of the Grand
Dukes by the cathedral and play Dear Lithuania, regarded
as the country’s second national anthem.QJ‑8, Palace of
the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 52
62 00 07, www.valdovurumai.lt.
City Essentials
Vilnius Fireworks festival © Linas Jonušas
Pigs are not sacred, of course, and are slaughtered for any Particularly popular in Trakai but available throughout the
feast or celebration, especially Christmas and Easter. The country are kibinai - pastries filled with meat, mushrooms,
most tender cuts are eaten immediately, the rest preserved even chocolate - and čenachai, ceramic bowls piled
by salting or smoking, sometimes allowing it to smoke high with succulent chunks of meat, potatoes and veg.
using alder or juniper wood for up to a month. You might see delicious balandėliai too, minced meat
wrapped in cabbage leaves.
Not much of the animal is wasted. The stomach is filled with
lean mince and seasoned to make a rich, dark ball of meat On the fish front, herring (silkė) is the most widespread,
called skilandis. The large intestine is stuffed with grated fished straight out of the Baltic Sea. Pickled, baked or fried,
potato to make slimily delicious vėdarai. The trotters are you will often see herring as an appetiser. If you are ever
braised for hours and served with bacon and sauerkraut, by the sea in Lithuania the most sought-after delicacy is
while the crunchy ears and fatty snout are served up as eel, and you may also see the freshwater versions on sale
beer snacks. inland. When it comes to bigger fish, pike-perch (sterkai),
pike (lydeka) and carp (karpis) are all delicious and local.
Our favourite way of eating pork in Lithuania is to devour
a huge, boiled, heavily-smoked knuckle (virtas rūkytas There are many dairy treats not to be missed if you’re in the
kumpis), all crunchy crackling and tender meat, served supermarket. Sūreliai are amazing little sweet sausages of
with lashings of horseradish sauce, sauerkraut, potatoes curd cheese often coated in chocolate, loved by children
and dill. and adults alike. Curd itself comes in dry, grainy chunks,
wetter flat slabs or - the most transportable - flat, hard,
The mighty potato takes precedence over all other oval-shaped pieces often flavoured with caraway seeds,
vegetables, even though it didn’t actually arrive in Lithuania herbs or spices. In fact, the dairy section of a supermarket
until well into the 18th century. But the locals prefer to can be bafflingly broad, with seemingly infinite varieties
prepare it in an unusual way - grating it raw before cooking. of cheese, cream, kefir, yoghurt, butter and much more.
Potato pancakes (bulviniai blynai) with sour cream are a
must-try treat, though quality varies from restaurant to Finally, desserts. Šakotis is probably the national cake,
restaurant. Another dish to look out for is žemaičių blynai, baked slowly on a spit, with deliciously sweet branches
soft, stout potato pancakes with a crispy exterior and spiking away from the stem. But just as tasty is tinginys,
stuffed with meat or mushrooms. made in various forms with chopped-up biscuits, cocoa
and butter. There’s also stick-in-the-teeth poppy-seed cake,
But the most famous potato dish is the legendary cepelinai, the many varieties of honey cake, fabulous varies of cookies
or didžkukuliai, huge zeppelin-shaped dumplings stuffed and wafers, and countless cream cakes.
with minced meat, mushrooms or cottage cheese and
usually topped with fried cubes of pork fat. Making them Salivating yet? Enjoy your culinary tour of Lithuania!
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 25
Restaurants
LITHUANIAN DISHES
Traditional
Lithuanian dishes
One-of-its kind
interior in
Lithuanian style
In the very heart
of the Old Town
FORTO DVARAS is the first traditional
Lithuanian food restaurant that
has been certified by the
CULINARY HERITAGE FUND
INDIAN BIZARRE
SUE’S INDIAN RAJA In an extraordinarily, darkly, almost industrially
One of the best restaurants in the Baltics, Sue’s constantly intricate interior with odd East Asian touches, housed
impresses with a fabulous range of dishes made with hand- even more weirdly in a former hospital in the old
picked and hand-mixed spices by a team of top Indian chefs Jewish quarter, faultlessly presented Asian, Peruvian
overseen by the uniquely charming Wing Commander and Mediterranean dishes and creamy desserts are
Rajinder Chaudhary. We drop in on a regular basis, most served. Sharply dressed locals enjoy late-evening
recently indulging in a rich tilapia tikka, some powerful chicken weekend parties on the second floor with live music
jalfrezi and a creamy vegetable makhani straight from the and fine wine. Sumptuous if pricey weekend brunches
Punjab. The location by the cathedral is unbeatable, service and weekday menus keep the Vilnius elite rolling in at
courteous, the overall experience magical.QI‑8, Odminių all hours.QPylimo 38, tel. (+370) 61 26 44 44. Open
3, tel. (+370) 52 66 18 88/(+370) 52 66 18 87, www. 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
suesindianraja.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Lunch Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00.
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €12. PTJAVBSW Brunch Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. €22.
PT A U B W
INTERNATIONAL CARRÉ
BISTRO 18 It may not be inspired by John le Carré, but its interior
A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro 18 specialises is as dark and twisting as a spy thriller. Yet the menu of
primarily in dishes from the world of European seasonal cuisine this elegant ‘bar & lounge’ inside the flashy city-centre
including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and scores of meat- GO9 shopping mall is no mystery. Caesar salad with
heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. There are tasty desserts chicken seems very popular but the steak, grilled tuna
too and the aforementioned wine shop is well-stocked. There’s and mussels in tomato sauce are super, too. Flustered
little sympathy for vegetarians here, but if you’re into classy at busy weekday lunchtimes, by evening it’s a more
dining on one of old Vilnius’ most scenic lanes this might just be inviting cocktail-driven prospect, especially if the
the place for you. Note that the kitchen closes two hours before outdoor terrace is open.QI‑8, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370)
the restaurant does.QI‑9, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 67 77 20 91, 68 79 01 59. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat
www.bistro18.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:00, 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €10. PTJA
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €8-16. PTJA6BS UBSW
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 33
Restaurants
FORTAS
One of the better casual dining spots in Naujamiestis, just
west of the Old Town, Fortas does an outstanding gingery
chicken soup, perfectly decent gnocchi and dishes from
here and there like schnitzel, beef stroganoff and (a bit
spongey) fish and chips. Amiable uniformed waitresses,
a comfy if slightly faded chain-pub interior and easy-
going atmosphere round off the expectations. Dishes are
designed with precision, leaving little room for surprises,
good or bad.QG‑10, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 65 20 11 38,
www.fortas.eu. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €6. PTASW
Cozy
GREY
COZY The city’s most visible new restaurant, over the road from
One of the great survivors of the Old Town bar scene, Cozy the Grand Dukes’ Palace and Cathedral, is all wide windows
combines an outstanding range of food and drinks with and bright lights, its solid grey space and spacious tables a
one of the city’s best locations. Pulled pork spring rolls, refreshing change from the bank branch that used to be
glazed pork ribs, sticky Jamaican jerk chicken and Vilnius’ here. The house burger is excellent with its melting cheddar
finest Caesar salads are gobbled up in a comfy zen décor and fried bacon, as are the fajitas and pastas. Take a bench
or at the highly prized streetside tables in summer. If you’re on the right to work your laptop. Upstairs it’s even better,
not having the sweet Seno rūsio beer or the latest seasonal tables romantically cloistered by high-backed seating,
brew from Vilkmerges, the white Russian cocktail is so big efficiently attended to by polite, uniformed staff. A separate
and creamy they use an expletive to describe it. Rotating menu boasts pork-belly roast and duck with caramelised
exhibitions of artful photography and friendly welcomes apples, with veggie options too. A touch stony overall
and farewells from the bar staff round off the experience. perhaps, but well-conducted.QJ‑8, Pilies 2, tel. (+370)
QI‑9, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 37, www. 63 32 26 77, www.restoranasgrey.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
cozy.lt/en/. Open 08:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 03:00. €8. Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun
PJA6BSW 10:00 - 22:00. Restaurant €15. Bar €8. PTAUW
PAUPIO12
This is the smartest Paupio Street has ever been. For
centuries, the fag end of Užupis was a lair for the washed- Rhum Room
TRINITY
It may seem sacrilegious, but decadent Trinity injects
precious life into one of the Old Town’s many old
monasteries. Abstract monochrome canvases, stripped-
smooth branches, intoxicating tropical jazz and nu-lounge
beats may have shocked the monks, but as waitresses ferry
dishes and drinks between the tables you can’t help asking
why more restaurants can’t feel like this. Beer-braised pork
ribs and duck breast with cranberry-flavoured couscous
jazz up the modest menu with a couple of noodle dishes
thrown in, making Trinity a convenient late-evening launch
pad for the bar and club downstairs. Beware the Zombie
cocktail – two of these and the voodoo will start to kick
in.QVilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 66 67 47 77, www.web.
tablein.com/trinity/. Open Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed
11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00, Coctail bar open Tue, Wed 18:00 - 24:00,
Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Night club open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. €14. PTJABW
ITALIAN
OSTERIA PIZZERIA A’ ROMA
One of the few places in the city with a charcoal grill,
lending the beef a special flavour, it also does thin and
crispy metre-pizza (or at least 80cm) at a fair price. The
menu features typical Roman cuisine, hence the name,
which could mean ‘in Rome’ or ‘aroma’, and in addition to a
fine gourmet burger and ‘tagliata’ cuts, you can also enjoy
pasta with black truffles from Umbria and other dishes
inspired by traditional Italian cuisine. Wash it all down
with Montepulciano wine, then indulge in tiramisu.QI‑10,
Vokiečių 18a, tel. (+370) 52 12 17 17. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
€12. PJA6BSW
SORRENTINO MEDITERRANEAN
It may be located on the tourist trail a few steps from the TERRAVINO
Gates of Dawn, but this informal and very special ristorante Conjuring up a fruity French and Mediterranean vibe in the
with its mainly seafood menu, charming frescoes, tiled floor, music and décor, Terravino gives the impression of being an
simple furniture and calming Italian tunes feels like a corner informal restaurant where some enthusiastic foodie and his
of Campania. Named after the chef, it serves up genuine, mates have finally opened that bucket-list place they were
unadulterated Neapolitan fare featuring prawns, swordfish always dreaming about. And they do it exceedingly well. We
and sea bass, plus a terrific octopus salad drenched in olive loved the gently caramelised octopus with an assortment of
oil and lemon, served on a black slate. Romantic couples natural accompaniments but you could equally just drop in
and small groups clink glasses of prosecco and Sicilian wine, for bruschetta and wine. An ideal spot for couples and small
and there’s a few dishes for kids, too.QAušros vartų 15, tel. groups.QSubačiaus 6A, tel. (+370) 69 65 50 55, https://
(+370) 60 07 87 92, www.sorrentino.lt/landingpage-en. terravino.lt/. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00,
html. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Sat Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8.
12:00 - 23:00. €12. JABW
JURGIS IR DRAKONAS
NOODLES Jurgis is the local name for George, and the dragon is the
RAMENAS IR PAGALIUKAI shapely pizza oven. A popular spot, like its previous out-
Wear your serviette high and slurp down a hearty bowl of-town incarnation, expect it to be busy at any time of
of ramen noodles at this slender joint near the cathedral. day, and as they don’t take reservations you may need to
Despite its plasticky look it’s not as budget as you might wait. We say the wait is worth it as just about everything,
expect, but the bowls are peppered with tender duck, pork, including the flour, is brought from Italy and the pizzas
shiitake, bamboo sprouts, etc. And the six variously spiced are thin and crisp right from the dragon’s mouth. Quite
choices of dish can be added to with extra ingredients if possibly, they’re the finest pizzas in town.QH‑9, Pylimo
needed, as the soup-spattered menu makes clear. After 22d, tel. (+370) 60 07 79 77, www.jurgisirdrakonas.lt.
chopsticking up the solids, don’t be afraid to pick up the Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
bowl and slurp down the broth.QL. Stuokos - Gucevičiaus Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Also at Verkių 29 (Ogmios miestas),
7, tel. (+370) 65 19 71 32. Open Mon-Thu 11:30 - 14:30, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). €6. PTJASW
16:30 - 21:00. Fri Open 11:30 - 14:30, 16:30 - 23:00. Sat
Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun Open 12:00 - 18:00. Also
at Lakūnų 14B (Ogmios miestas). €7. PJAW Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App
PIZZA
CASA LA FAMILIA
This is the first pizzeria in Lithuania offering exclusive gourmet MONSTRO
vegetarian pizzas with incredible flavours and nothing but Big, uncouth, devil-may-care, crispy-edged, thick
the finest ingredients. Located in the Old Town, it offers the and puffy rectangular wedges of pizza, burned just
best possible choice of vegetarian and vegan pizzas, fresh a touch, and matching heavenly ingredients like
juice cocktails and homemade desserts, not to mention a gorgonzola and pear, pesto and raisin, or turkey and
cosy environment. The pizzas at Casa La Familia are made pistaccio are eagerly consumed with craft beers and
from top-quality flour, homemade sheep’s and goats’ cheese, Tussock Jumper wine. If there are no seats left in this
pine nuts, roasted beetroot, truffles and, the main ingredient, nanoscopic niche, take your pizza to a table in one of
lots of love.QRūdninkų 18, tel. (+370) 67 59 59 39, www. the neighbouring bars.QArklių 6, tel. (+370) 61 33
casalafamilia.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 73 39. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun
21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €6.5. TJAW 14:00 - 23:00. €6.
NIÑO
PORTUGUESE The cracking little medieval cellar space under Cozy
GALO DO PORTO now operates in the guise of a lounge-like tapas
Portuguese-style skewered-meat espetadas are the bar. The delicacies in question more or less measure
highlight here, suspended from a hook and drawing up to the real thing, the English-speaking staff are
gasps as they arrive at the table. But there are many frightfully nice and, if you’re the type of person
other beautifully presented dishes too, from thick who doesn’t agree with fancy food, it’s possible to
Francesinha sandwiches covered in melted cheese to the spend hours down there soaking up nothing more
sumptuous steaks, ribs and burgers. And the atmosphere than the atmosphere and lots and lots of alcohol.
of this tastefully designed centuries-old room, its sheltered The attached restaurant-bar upstairs is pretty good
summertime courtyard and even the tunnel to the toilets too.QI‑9, Šv. Ignoto 16, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 37,
create a memorable experience.QJ‑11, Aušros vartų 11, www.ninobaras.lt/en/. Open Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri,
tel. (+370) 68 61 83 17. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. €4.
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €18. TJAEBSW PJ A S W
STEAKHOUSE HAZIENDA
Enter the secluded courtyard of the Mabre Residence
hotel and turn left to find this gem of a restaurant, ideal
as a centrally located hideaway for a secret date or for a
sheltered business meeting. Practically all of the grills are
seductive, from the prime Argentine steak and the venison
tenderloin to the bass and the bream. The knowledgeable
staff will be able to tell you about the origins of all of the
raw materials.QJ‑9, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel), tel.
(+370) 52 12 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
PTJAEBW
SUSHI
SUSHI STOP
The best and most centrally located sushi bar in Vilnius can
be found a few steps from the cathedral. Fresh scallops,
salmon and tuna marinated in a secret recipe make the
sashimi the real standout here, but the shitake, chicken
or vegetable spring rolls and the hot, melt-in-the-mouth
panko sushi are also delectable.QGedimino 2a, tel.
(+370) 68 62 99 77, https://sushistop.lt/. Open 11:00 -
22:00, Thu 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Also at
Kęstučio 24a. JA
VEGAN/VEGETARIAN
ALIVE
The self-proclaimed plant-food restaurant Alive raises the
bar for the other vegetarian and vegan food stops in the
city. There’s none of the plain old fare here like veggie stews
and heavy porridge. The dishes are delicate, the ingredients
and combinations visionary, sometimes even luxurious, the
presentation elegant. Unlike other vegan and vegetarian
venues, you’ll find a tasting menu and a selection of fine
wines and champagne. Such a refreshing approach to veggie
cuisine has been a long time coming in Vilnius.QGedimino
31, tel. (+370) 63 91 00 88. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8. JAW
GYVAS BARAS
Many of the dishes at this informal eatery are vegan, with VENEZUELAN
daily specials chalked up according to whatever’s in season. AREPERA
You might find tofu burgers, veggie tacos, oven-roasted Made from cornmeal that’s been cooked and dehydrated,
aubergines, pumpkin soup, carrot pancakes and other arepas with all kinds of fillings are hugely popular in
delights. The interior may be lacking in character, but the Venezuela and Colombia – and now you can try them
staff are warm and helpful.QI‑10, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370) authentically made in Vilnius. In a space not much bigger
65 69 29 39, www.gyvasbaras.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Thu than a cupboard, the young Venezuelans sing to salsa
11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun and merengue as they cook. The ‘pelua’ version combines
13:00 - 20:00. €5.5. PJA6VSW “delicious stewed meat” and gouda cheese as a filling.
Other highlights are chicken and avocado mayo, or black
HOLIGANS beans with white cheese. You’re guaranteed to make a
Adding to the small but growing spectrum of cheap and mess, but don’t worry, you’re allowed to.QTotorių 7-2,
casual leafy eateries, the inappropriately named Holigans tel. (+370) 67 17 10 54. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 -
delights bookish types with creamy pea soup, veggie 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.
protein and beetroot burgers in dense, bready baps, and
a stew that features just about every local vegetable you
can name. Glorious cakes too. The interior is designed a
bit like a kindergarten, with coat pegs, cheerful sketches
on the walls, colourful chairs and daily specials chalked
up on a blackboard, and the people are welcoming.
QŠopeno 10, tel. (+370) 61 55 07 45, www.holigans.
lt/. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. €4. PAW
NAMAI
Vegetarian and vegan dishes are rustled up in a family-
friendly bistro a few steps from the main tourist sites of
Aušros Vartų. Ingredients are sourced locally and made
into stir-fries, curries, falafel, paneer, soups, salads, bakes
and some amazing desserts like waffles, panna cotta and a
much-loved chocolate cake. Two or three dishes are made
specifically for kids.QSubačiaus 6, tel. (+370) 62 02 22 91.
Open 11:30 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
€6. TJA6W
ZATAR FALAFEL&HUMMUS
Simple and speedily effective, Zatar is falafel and
hummus – and only that, just about, with veggie
adornments, olive oil, sauces and pita bread, and
washed down with local birch juice. It’s as satisfying as
any burger. Split-level seating, plants and ferns spice
up the décor.QVokiečių 9, www.zatar.lt. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. €4.85.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 41
Cafés
w w w. 3 0 b e s t r e s t a u r a n t s . l t
2017
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DŽIAUGSMAS NÜMAN
One of the best chefs in Lithuania, Martynas Praškevičius, whose another This is one of the brightest debuts in the restaurants’ business in the entire
restaurant Stebuklai became the best restaurant in Lithuania last year, for three Lithuania and, undoubtedly, a new gastronomic leader in Kaunas. The cuisine
years had an idea to open Džiaugsmas (Lithuanian: “joy”). Finally in February of Nüman – a seasonal Scandinavian DNA with a priority towards fine dining,
2017, a real joy for Lithuanians was opened – a restaurant-bistro, which uses
only Lithuanian products. without a la carte and operating in the principle of tasting dinners.
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ŠVYTURYS
Šturmų Švyturys serves as a proof that even in the modern world which is always
MONAI in a hurry, you can find something genuine, peace, passion and... exceptionally
fresh fish. Those who visit these restaurants on the shore of the Curonian Lagoon
One of the best chefs in Lithuania, Vytautas Samavičius, had long dreamt or in Vilnius, in Užupis quarter, find themselves as if in the alternative reality with
about a place where you could spend an evening with your family, organise no problems and get to try extremely fresh local fish with exclusive seasonal
business meetings or just spend your time with friends, a place where the garnish.
plates are full of improvisation, seasonal character and elegance.
Head chef Česlovas Žemaitis
Head chef Vytautas Samavičius Managing director Česlovas & Asta Žemaičiai
Managing director Kristina Samavičienė Type of cuisine Lithuanian fresh fish restaurant
Type of cuisine family restaurant Working hours I-VII 12pm-10pm (in Vilnius),
Working hours II-V 11:30am-10pm, VI 12:00pm-10pm, VII 11am-4pm I-VII 1pm-9pm (in Ventės ragas from 16 June)
Address Liepų str. 4, Klaipėda Address Užupio str. 30, Vilnius & Ventės Ragas, Šturmai
Contact www.restoranasmonai.lt / +370 626 63362 Contact www.sturmusvyturys.lt / +370 656 98000
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Now that the city’s wine-drinking crowd have their own LOCAL BREWS
places to imbibe, the city’s nightlife entrepreneurs are Try the beers brewed on site, or at boutique breweries
turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely the around the country, at casual bars like Alaus Biblioteka,
regular openings of new places selling brown frothy drinks Būsi Trečias and Bukowski Baras. For a taste of something
made in small microbreweries around the country. The very local and a bit odd, squeeze into Šnekutis, which
best are listed here. Some clubs, but not all, apply a cover alternates its beers so regularly it sticks handwritten notes
charge. For the less rowdy, there are plenty of cosier bars on the taps. The craft beer trend continues to evolve, with
worth seeking out. The clubs remain almost exclusively brews such as those in the Dundulis family, like Humulupu
mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene is IPA, worth seeking out. But some beers, like the all-but-
almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. Note unpronounceable Raudonų Plytų Uosto Naujokas have
that face control is currently on the rise in Vilnius; if yours been concocted by Lithuania’s big breweries to cash in.
doesn’t fit, forget it. Wearing a decent pair of shoes usually
helps. Leave your trainers at home and have fun! CLUB ACTION
For all-night (almost) dancefloor action, several venues
NIGHT SHIFTS provide memorable combinations of excellent sound and
The times when Vilnius’ nightlife seemed a bit limited have light systems, great drinks and friendly strangers. Indeed
virtually gone. But the illuminated streets are definitely at Vilnius has a little something for everyone in this regard.
their liveliest late on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, Enjoy a touch of the exotic and fabulous cocktails at Mojo
usually after 10pm. The city’s night scene is constantly Lounge or Latino-pop and a slightly more mature throng
changing, with a lot of the action now taking place on at Pabo Latino.
certain streets in the Old Town such as Islandijos, Vilniaus,
Labdarių, Totorių, Stiklių, Vokiečių, Didžioji and Aušros Vartų Bix Bar
Don’t forget to take in Paparazzi, masters of the mixed
drink, once it reopens in late September.
The gradual process of gentrification taking place
throughout Lithuania unfortunately means that once-
legendary watering holes like the raucous Writers’ Union
Bar, which is now a rather more acceptable cocktail bar (at
Sirvydo 6), are disappearing from the city centre. Try edgier
bars near Halės Market, around the end of Pylimo Street.
48 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Artistai BUKOWSKI BARAS
The hip and the trendy have turned shabby into shabby
chic at a bar named after the unrepentant hard-drinking,
womanising American poet. He would certainly have
approved of the local craft beers, especially the lovely
draught Dundulis brews, and an expanded choice of
booze lines the wall behind the bar. There are several
deadly cocktails too. Opulent hot dogs are grilled and
served in trays – with refried beans, macaroni cheddar
BARS and, best of all, caramelised onions. Now the courtyard’s
ARTISTAI closed, outdoor seating spills onto the roadside.QI‑11,
The strongest side of this live music bar is its huge Visų Šventųjų 7, tel. (+370) 64 05 88 55. Open 16:00 -
courtyard with an impressive terrace in summer and the 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 12:00. JA
chance to see performances by talented and upcoming 6EBW
local artists, who climb up onstage straight from the
street (or neighbouring table). Though some shows can DĖVĖTI
be more funny than impressive, the regulars say that it’s Within the space of a few years, this lively bar has become
only here you can witness performances by truly gifted one of the characteristic symbols of the revitalisation of the
youngsters. The menu is as diverse and unpretentious as area surrounding the city’s bus and rail stations. Now it’s
the performances – tasty pizzas, baguettes, pasta, etc. – a place for get-togethers for casually dressed youngsters,
and there’s oceans of super-popular Lithuanian beer. After local intellectuals and people who love hearty talks over
the third glass you may want to climb on stage yourself, pints of beer. Come on a Friday and you can enjoy a live
but before doing that make sure you have something to concert or funky tribal electronic music party. Exuding
show.QJ‑10, Šv. Kazimiero 3, tel. (+370) 52 12 12 68, life and spirit, its bar is crowned with 14 beer taps – from
www.artistai.lt. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00, lager to porter, from wheat to rye, as well as pilsners, IPAs,
Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. gruit and exclusive varieties of local ale. Plus there’s a great
JA6EBSW variety of snacks – even for vegetarians.QI‑11, Sodų 3, tel.
(+370) 52 50 27 64/(+370) 67 76 17 68. Open 15:00 -
BIX 01:00. JA6EW
BIX’s maze-like interior over several floors was probably
not designed by some famous Danish architect, but the DIRTY DUCK
oldest rock bar in Lithuania does boast a unique charm. Amid a cosy, dark, brick-wood-and-leather interior on
It has singlehandedly raised an entire generation of local the second floor of an Old Town entertainment venue,
residents over more than 20 years of operation, who Newcastle, Guinness, Hoegaarden and other beers
remove their suits and their Lithuanian modesty and who are poured, cocktails are expertly mixed – we love the
love rock music, the relaxed atmosphere and, of course, the refreshing berry-flavoured house drink – and countless
bar’s crucial drink – beer, the selection of which is really whiskies are deliberated over. Chat to friendly locals to
good here. If you feel tempted to pop in and try a brew, the sound of crowd-pleasing hits, or order super dishes
also order one of the burgers, then another glass, and ranging from pork ribs with apple sauce to burgers to fish
another. And have a chat with the amiable barmen – you’ll and chips. But what distinguishes Dirty Duck is its location
definitely have a great time.QI‑10, Etmonų 6, tel. (+370) overlooking the Town Hall, romantically illuminated in
52 62 77 91, www.bix.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu the evening.QJ‑10, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 52 31 26 41,
12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. JA www.dirtyduck.eu. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
6EBSW 06:00. PJASW
ETMONŲ ŠPUNKA
An alehouse pouring unfussy, affordable pub beer in a CHAMPAGNE
lovely, sloppy, sticky environment in the Old Town, this bar is ÉPERNAY
packed in the evenings with people who crave atmosphere This exclusive cellar bar at the high-end of town livens
over pretension. The building used to be an experimental up on Thursdays when fresh boxes of oysters arrive, often
medical facility. Sadly, one day soon, it will be turned into including Muirgen, Tsarskaya, Gillardeau, Perle Blanche and
a nice, tidy hotel. Until then, take advantage of Dundulis’ Fines de Claire. Slurp them down among the city’s wealthy
seasonal, medieval-style gruit ales, made with heather in elite with cool champagne, classy cocktails - or just beer.
November or wormwood in spring. Ask the barman for QVilniaus 27, tel. (+370) 63 33 32 85. Open 17:00 -
advice.QEtmonų 3, tel. (+370) 65 09 82 57, www.spunka. 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JBW
lt/. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
THE BUBBLES. CHAMPAGNERIA
KING & MOUSE New to Vilnius but a simple concept, this is an evening bar
The owners of this spot, on what could be the Old Town’s tiniest dedicated to champagnes, sparkling wines and prosecco,
lane, run an intriguing venue for anyone who just can’t get at least 30 of each, and on the board a small selection
enough whisky. Featuring more than 300 brands, classes and available on that day by the glass. Bubble freaks can spend
blends from around the world as well as other drinks and decent quality time with a bottle in an ice bucket between them.
food, everything is located within two bar spaces and a shop. The interior is 50 shades of black, but it’s friendly, elegant
Surplus to the usual improvised drinking sessions is a range and spotless, the cool dark emphasising the views of the
of tasting events and panderings to the connoisseur.QH‑10, street and the park and the sparkles in your glass.QH‑9,
Trakų 2, tel. (+370) 65 77 31 21. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 Vilniaus 35, tel. (+370) 64 77 25 57. Open 17:00 - 02:00,
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JABW Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. JAW
PERONAS
Perhaps the city’s most daring hipster-style bar of them all, CLUBS
Peronas (‘platform’) takes up a capacious space right by the COCAINN
railway tracks beside the train station. Pleasantly dimly lit, it Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes,
supplies a steady stream of Moscow mules, dirty martinis there’s a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a
and Czech and local beers to thirsty, shambolic crowds that quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet
grow in number on weekend nights when DJs and live dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing
bands come to play. We especially enjoyed a recent rowdy girls dressed as nurses among other things. There’s also
series of Balkan and klezmer nights.QGeležinkelio 6, tel. a place for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to
(+370) 61 67 47 54. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - Eastern European nightlife.QI‑8, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370)
01:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 - 02:00. JABW 60 04 78 62. Open 22:00 - 06:00, Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed
22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAW
ROCK RIVER CLUB
Slurp beer and headbang, or at least stomp your feet, to a diet Cocainn
of classic and heavy rock played at enormous volume in a dark
and spacious basement under the riverside shopping centre
VCUP. Icons from Jimi to Lemmy greet you from beyond the
grave as you descend the stairs, and inside, amiable staff ferry
tankards of excellent Rinkuškių and Dundulis beer, chicken
wings and mini-burgers. Regular live music veers from blues
to rock to punk.QUpės 9, tel. (+370) 68 83 11 81. Open
17:00 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
50 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
MOJO LOUNGE VILNIUS PANTERA
A gorgeous place, decked out in style without ever Enjoy cool cocktails and hot clubbing at this thumpingly
going over-the-top, with a powerful sound system, popular venue on the edge of the Old Town, where the
sumptuous lighting and sexy patrons. Mojo Lounge crowd who make past the hardworking face control are
hosts loads of regular parties, wild nights and live young, fashionable and supremely attractive, while the
events and attracts a varied, affluent crowd. It’s the kind place itself is much the same. It looks fabulous, packed
of club where you don’t have to worry about feeling with comfy black leather sofas ripe for chilling on with your
too old, or too young. Top music, and the service is expertly made drink. Watching the bar staff in action is a
good too (it doesn’t take all night to get a drink). A night out in itself and the waitresses are as gorgeous as the
winner!QI‑10, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 65 76 65 00, clientele. You’ll love it the moment you walk in. Tends to be
www.mojolounge.lt. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed closed in summer.QH‑8, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 62 63
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free or from €3. 73 43. Closed for summer. PJA
PJAEX
Pabo well
Latino
known luxurious Latin cocktail bar,
-Latin Culture nightclub and terrace in Vilnius
-Luxurious interior
-Special Cocktails
-Famous DJs
-Live Music
-Open Air Terrace
-Dirty Dances Every Night
than 20 draught beers alternate regularly and are scruffily with a number of local LGBT activists launched a
chalked up on the board, while about 100 more are in campaign encouraging restaurants and bars in Vilnius
bottles. For us, a glass of Viciously Viscous barley wine to display an LGBT Friendly sticker on their doors. An
warmed the cockles on a chilly evening. There’s no kitchen, overwhelming success, the project gradually intensified
but plates of cheeses or game meat give you something to with the publication of a map of Vilnius marked with
chew on.QL. Stuokos - Gucevičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 61 13 the venues that had signed up to the sticker campaign.
00 30. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - The first copy was given away in a symbolic gesture of
23:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. solidarity to Stuart Milk, nephew of the iconic gay rights
activist and politician Harvey Milk (1930-1978), who in
PROHIBICIJA a rather neat closing of the circle was of Lithuanian
A tiny space stacked out with craft beers mainly from origin.
Denmark, like the bitter blonde Campale or the peaty,
smoky Polish-style Grätze, and a hundred others, SOHO
Prohibition also sells the finest limited-edition Lithuanian At the only venue in Vilnius for the LGBT community, one
craft beers by Sakiškių near Vilnius and Kaunas’ Genys. space is for drinking and chatting, another for dance-
Gluten-free beers are available too. If space is tight, carry orientated activities, both then subdivided further and
your choice to a table in one of the neighbouring bars. decorated in a somewhat eclectic yet rather fetching
QArklių 6, tel. (+370) 68 78 62 74, www.prohibicija. style. If you want to grab someone’s attention beyond
lt/. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - the twinkling of an eye, send a text message for it to be
22:00. Closed Mon. JAB displayed on a large screen. Tends to be closed in summer.
QG‑10, Švitrigailos 7, tel. (+370) 69 93 95 67, www.
sohoclub.lt. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
LGBT Thu, Sun. Entrance fee - €5. PAW
Attitudes towards minority groups in Lithuania are
slowly changing for the better, with a handful of brave
individuals spearheading campaigns for equal rights
armed with both courage and a firm understanding of Where’s the party?
Lithuanian law. One such person is the gay Lithuanian facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
film director Romas Zabarauskas, who in 2012 along
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 53
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC & EVENTS
All you need JAZZ CELLAR 11
Vilnius’ longstanding love affair with jazz lives on in this
to know
pulsating cellar bar close to the Gates of Dawn. Operating
outside the summer season, mostly at weekends, the warm
atmosphere raises the temperature on even the chilliest of
about where
nights.QAušros vartų 11, tel. (+370) 68 41 13 82, www.
vilniusjazzclub.lt/. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Thu 08:00 - 01:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJAE
drink, visit
(Fire Flame) and Pievų rūko (Meadow Fog), wild locals and
hostel guests throw themselves around to drum’n’bass.
Minimal Mondays, meanwhile, are reserved for calming
and enjoy
ambient recovery. Gazpacho, seafood pasta and paella are
hashed together at these and other times.QKauno 5, tel.
(+370) 66 52 14 16, www.mankablys.lt. Open 23:00 -
06:00, Mon 21:00 - 02:00, Thu 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Tue,
Wed, Sun. ABW
MICROBREWERIES
ALINĖ LEIČIAI
ONLINE The next logical step in the evolution of the specialist
Lithuanian beer bar, Leičiai also doubles as a restaurant
serving classic traditional local food. As well as a space for
drinking the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer from
small microbreweries around the country, this pleasant
watering hole also features two dining halls, one with an
open kitchen and a small beer garden out the back.QI‑10,
Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 52 60 90 87. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
PJA6BSW
PRINT CRAFT & DRAFT
MOBILE Brewing six beers on the premises, including an excellent
honey beer and an IPA, this relaxed cellar microbrewery
has a friendly aura and bouncy jazzy music, its seating
memorably in sight of the cathedral in summer. Nibble
on the marinated pigs’ ears, try the pork ribs or halloumi
burger if you can, or go for one of 80 whiskies from Sweden,
India or Taiwan to chase the beer down.QGedimino 5, tel.
(+370) 60 57 75 55. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00
- 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PJA
BW
WINE
CALIFORNIA TAPAS & WINE
Europe's biggest publisher of Growing from strength to strength, it’s a breath of fresh air
locally produced to see a restaurant in Lithuania improve over time rather
than the usual opposite. Aiming to introduce tapas to
city guides the local population among other things, this Spanish-
themed restaurant/bar on two floors provides a bit of
vilnius.inyourpocket.com everything, from a first-floor café complete with open
kitchen serving dishes like Basque fish soup and grilled
meat to a labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings
54 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
KALIGULA
After a hard day building bridges, killing people on
a whim and trying to get your horse ordained as a
priest, swish into this little nook for some upper-class
depravity. Small, simple and stylish, it’s just the right
size for private parties, so we hear.QI‑10, Pylimo 38,
tel. (+370) 52 63 63 24, www.kaligulaclub.lt. Open
21:00 - 06:00. Entrance €30. PJA
One of the most enchanting and memorable outings from This tale could also explain the similarity between the
Vilnius is also one of the closest – the beautiful classical name Verkiai and the word verkti, ‘to cry’.
palace and grounds of Verkiai. There are sweeping hilltop Sadly, Verkiai Palace was left a smouldering wreck by
views and deep connections with history and legends Napoleon’s soldiers in 1812, just a couple of decades after
– and ghost stories too. Drive, cycle or order a taxi to get it was built, compelling the new owners, the Wittgenstein
there, taking the scenic route along the River Neris. family, to pull down the central section.
Less than 10 kilometres north of the city centre, the The local Institute of Botany inhabits one of the
landscape is of steep, thickly forested hillsides above the surviving wings, but appointments can be made (Tel. 210
winding River Neris. On a hilltop overlooking the valley 2333) to have a poke around inside, together with a guide.
stand two surviving parts of a palace designed in three Intriguingly, some of the decoration from the time of the
separate sections by the celebrated architect Laurynas Wittgensteins is still visible including scratched wallpaper,
Gucevičius towards the end of the 18th century, as a woodwork and ceilings.
summer retreat for the Bishop of Vilnius. As with all old palaces and castles, there are stories
Some 400 years previously, on his conversion to of ghosts and haunted rooms. One of them concerns
Christianity, Grand Duke Jogaila had granted the site to the daughter of an owner of the palace. Distraught at
the new diocese of Vilnius. Presumably the idea was to being forbidden to marry the man she loved, she hung
stamp out the fact that the area was closely bonded with herself from a chandelier in one of the smaller rooms. Her
paganism. lonely spirit is said to wander the corridors. Something
At the furthest edge of the hilltop, a sacred eternal untraceable passes through locked rooms, makes strange
fire was kept aflame by a pagan priest and alluring local noises like steps and sliding furniture, and opens and closes
virgins. Today a stone fireplace marks the spot. The legend doors, scaring people who work there, especially at night.
continues that, perhaps inevitably, the pagan priest fell in Some of the rooms have been used as a hotel, and the
love with one of the virgins. She became pregnant and ghostly goings on intensified after 2001, when a young
gave birth to a son. woman mysteriously shot herself from a legally stored
One day, the grand duke visited with his entourage. hunting rifle. The death was never properly explained and
Fearful that their sacrilegious affair would be discovered, people say that her restless ghost is doomed to forever
the couple quickly wrapped the baby and hid him in a wander the building.
cradle at the top of a tree. The baby soon started crying and Not far from the palace buildings is a viewpoint across
the grand duke ordered the bundle down. The priest was the luscious valley. By the stone fireplace are steps leading
asked for an explanation. down to a watermill built in the 19th century. The mill
The priest claimed that the boy had been a stopped working in 1975 but now houses a fairly decent
miraculous gift from the gods, an heir to take over as a restaurant. A path alongside a stream leads back up the
future pagan priest. The grand duke approved and the hill to the palace gates. At the rear of the palace is another
boy was named Lizdeika, from the word lizdas, or ‘nest’. restaurant, which functions as an atmospheric location for
He did indeed grow up to become a priest – it was he private events.
who gave the interpretation of Grand Duke Gediminas’ Whatever you choose to do at Verkiai, and whatever the
dream about a howling iron wolf, which led to the season, it’s bound to be a memorable few hours. Just don’t
founding of Vilnius. go after dark.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 57
Sightseeing
The Lithuanian capital’s first period of growth took place throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch as people
immediately south of today’s Cathedral Square, eventually walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel
becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, is open to the public and is accessed via a small door
Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as on the left as you’re walking up the hill.QJ‑11, Aušros
Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 35 13. Open 06:00 - 19:00,
this undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to Mass 09:00 (Lithuanian), 10:00 (Polish), Sun 09:30
see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities (Lithuanian). J
encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled
Republic of Užupis to the few remaining relics of a once GEDIMINAS CASTLE & MUSEUM
thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet- (GEDIMINO PILIS IR MUZIEJUS)
era masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably Dating from the 13th century, the castle was rebuilt by
interesting collection of museums and galleries, put some Grand Duke Vytautas after a major fire in 1419. By the
decent parks in the spaces in-between and you’ll find it early 1600s it was being used as a prison for disobedient
hard to not find a reason to visit. members of the ruling classes, but during the chaotic 1655-
61 Russian occupation the towers and defensive walls were
almost completely destroyed, with partial restoration
ESSENTIAL VILNIUS work beginning as late as 1930, by the then-occupying
GATES OF DAWN (AUŠROS VARTAI) Poles. Inside the tower itself find models of the structure
Completed in 1522, the Gates of Dawn (or Sharp Gate as it appeared in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other
(Ostra Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the only bits and pieces on the building’s history and knights in
remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls. dented armour. The views from the hill and from the top of
As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin the castle are the ideal start to a tour of the city. The walk
Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city, and up is a bit of a struggle for many, but there are benches
the story of the Gates of Dawn starts from this simple thoughtfully provided along the way.QJ‑8, Castle Hill, tel.
historic fact. The current image, known as The Blessed (+370) 52 61 74 53, www.lnm.lt/en/gediminas-castle-
Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted on eight tower. Open 10:00 - 21:00. October 1 - November 31
pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was Open 10:00 - 18:00. €5/2. J
embellished with gold and silver about 40 years after
that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above
the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magical healing Get the In Your Pocket
powers. Interestingly, the site is revered by both the
Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important City Essentials App
part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained open
58 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
VILNIUS CATHEDRAL & THE GRAND DUKES’ PALACE
CATHEDRAL-BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS & the centuries, giving it its peculiar shape. It received six new
ST. LADISLAUS (VILNIAUS ŠV. STANISLOVO IR bells in 2002, baptised by the cardinal in a special ceremony.
ŠV. VLADISLOVO ARKIKATEDRA BAZILIKA) QJ‑8, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 27, www.katedra.
The most important Catholic building in Lithuania, Vilnius lt. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun
Cathedral as it’s more commonly known was first built 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
in 1251 by newly converted Grand Duke Mindaugas on
the site of a pagan temple. Returned to pagan use after PALACE OF THE GRAND DUKES OF LITHUANIA
Mindaugas’ death in 1263, it was given back to the Catholic (LIETUVOS DIDŽIOSIOS KUNIGAIKŠTYSTĖS
Church on the country’s official conversion to Christianity VALDOVŲ RŪMAI)
in 1387. The building that now stands in its place has little The Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania is at the
to do with the original structure. The current building centre of the historical and cultural heritage of the early
dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and Lithuanian state, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania (13th-18th
additions made after that. The Neo-Classical form is largely c.), and its rulers. The original Palace was brought to the
down to Lithuania’s first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka ground 200 years ago, but its reconstruction became one
Gucevičius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-98), who was of the most important accents of Lithuania’s Millennium
also responsible for a number of other notable buildings Programme in 2009. The reconstructed palace is a
in the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave symbol of Lithuania’s longstanding statehood, reflecting
betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see High the twists and turns of the state’s and the nation’s destiny
Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-84), named after in history, as well as its European ties.
Lithuania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains, Visitors will discover the most important historical facts
the chapel is one of the country’s national treasures. On the about Lithuania and how common rulers reigning in
roof of the cathedral, the three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Lithuania, Poland, Sweden and other countries resided
Helena and Casimir, supposedly representing Poland, here and received envoys from Turkey, Persia, Spain, Italy
Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century and many European countries. The expositions present the
originals which were destroyed by the Soviets in 1950. surviving authentic ruins and unique archaeological finds as
Spending several years as an art gallery and even a car well as rich Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque art collections,
repair workshop, the cathedral was returned to the Catholic which reflect the artistic connections between the dukes
Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful Sąjūdis and Europe’s most powerful dynasties and Lithuanian
Congress and re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The cultural heritage in the European context.QJ‑8, Katedros
57-metre free-standing bell-tower, now a popular meeting 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 00 07, www.valdovurumai.lt. Open
place, was originally part of one of the gates in the city’s 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
defensive wall and has been added to several times over Closed Mon. Admission €3/1.5. Guide €22. JA
© Vytautas Abramauskas
The stunning Baroque Church of Sts. Peter & Paul © Matas Jankauskas, Virš Visko
GENOCIDE VICTIMS’ MUSEUM the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different
(GENOCIDO AUKŲ MUZIEJUS) styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole,
The sign outside reads that between 1940 and 1991 this the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade
building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s
and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate almost earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at
exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called it. The interior is refreshingly free of ostentation. The separate
genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist bell tower has nothing to do with the original design, being
regime. Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius built only in 1873. Visiting in 1812, Napoleon famously noted
for people wishing to understand this often bleak and violent that he wanted to take the building back to Paris on the palm
period in the country’s history, what the sign fails to point out of his hand.QJ‑9, Maironio 8, www.onosbaznycia.lt. Open
is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Mass Tue,
by the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:30. Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
vast majority of the city’s Jewish population with the willing
participation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat STS. PETER & PAULS’ CHURCH
bizarrely, almost completely overlooked, although the recent (ŠV. APAŠTALŲ PETRO IR POVILO BAŽNYČIA)
addition of a room dedicated to just this issue is a welcome Believed to have been built on the site of a site of worship
addition. Controversy aside, as a testament to the suffering to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking late
endured by the ethnic Lithuanians, especially under the Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory
lunacy of Stalin, the place is essential for any visitor to Vilnius. over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand
QG‑8, Aukų 2a, tel. (+370) 52 49 62 64/(+370) 52 49 81 Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to see its
56, www.genocid.lt/muziejus. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins and completed
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4/1. J under several master craftsmen including the Polish Jan Zaor
and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather plain façade
ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (ŠV. ONOS BAŽNYČIA) betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni
Unquestionably one of the city’s most famous landmarks, Maria Galli that’s quite simply out of this world. Containing
and quite rightly so, St. Anne’s has a history that starts with the over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing
alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of
of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, wife of Vytautas equal magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing
the Great. The first historical records of a church here date a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of
from 1394, but the current Gothic masterpiece is believed to Antakalnis) which features real human hair brought from
have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a design by the Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier made of brass and
Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), who is most glass beads and dating from 1905.QL‑6, Antakalnio 1, tel.
famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike other (+370) 52 34 02 29, www.petropovilobaznycia.lt. Open
historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed to 06:30 - 18:45, Mass 07:00, 08:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00. Sun
escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.
60 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
VILNIUS UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION OF THE LORD
(VILNIAUS UNIVERSITETAS) (VILNIAUS MISIONIERIŲ BAŽNYČIA)
Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities in Its two towers dominating the landscape from a hilltop
Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes up above Maironio Street and Užupis, this 18th-century
Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces Baroque church has a far more striking exterior than
just about every major architectural style of the last 400 interior. In any case you’ll be lucky to find it open, and
years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the the surrounding former monastery buildings belong to
university became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and a hospital. Initially built for missionaries, it was closed
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th during large parts of the Tsarist and Soviet periods and
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous students was used variously as a war hospital, an institute for
who studied here include the Polish Romantic poets Adam young ladies of noble families and an insane asylum.
Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, Lithuanian author and QSubačiaus 26.
historian Simonas Daukantas and Lithuania-born Polish
Nobel Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS
housing the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University (ŠV. KRYŽIAUS BAŽNYČIA)
is also famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending On the other side of the Presidential Palace from the
on your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either university, this charming little church’s history dates
12 or 13. The university itself claims 13, although by rights back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site to
the correct number should be 12 as one of them only has commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century
three walls, the fourth having been destroyed when the Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries,
neighbouring Presidential Palace was built. The ensemble including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, it is now
was fully restored in 1979 and is well worth investigating. more-or-less late Baroque in appearance with a few rococo
A map can be found at Universiteto 7 explaining where flourishes and is the only church in Vilnius converted from
everything is.QJ‑9; I‑9, Universiteto 7, tel. (+370) 52 19 an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The
30 29, www.muziejus.vu.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed interior is worth having a peep at if the doors aren’t bolted,
Sun, November 1 - November 30 Open 09:30 - 17:30. the most outstanding feature being the painting Holy
Admission €1.50/0.50. J Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, an image of which
appears on a fresco above the entrance. The small square in
which the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-
CHURCHES era bust of Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (1753-1798),
BERNARDINE CHURCH & MONASTERY Lithuania’s first serious architect who was responsible for
(BERNARDINŲ BAŽNYČIA IR VIENUOLYNAS) the contemporary look of the cathedral, the town hall and
Once forming part of the city’s original defensive walls other buildings in the city.QI‑9, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370)
and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church 67 24 66 48. J
dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest
of an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic CHURCH OF THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD
church with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates (SKAISČIAUSIOS DIEVO MOTINOS CERKVĖ)
from the early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century,
photographs on display show, the church interior was truly this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions
breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such
the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in
among other things allegedly incorporated parts of the Vilnius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to
interior into the works of art the academy was producing. reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon
Returned to the monks soon after independence, a after the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into
mammoth restoration project continues to this day. Current the hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two
highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection
oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th rooms for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved
century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part in as the church acted as a barracks before it took on
of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and several other uses before General Muravyov and his
independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance
soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a and used as a house of worship towards the end of the
barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of 1860s.QJ‑9, Maironio 14, tel. (+370) 52 15 37 47. Open
the city’s Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now 10:00 - 17:00. J
houses the Vilnius Art Academy.QJ‑9, Maironio 10, tel.
(+370) 61 60 11 59, www.parapija.bernardinai.lt. Open
Mon, Tue 07:30 - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 19:00, Sat Get the In Your Pocket
08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 18:00, Mass Mon - Fri 07:30,
Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English), City Essentials App
10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 61
Sightseeing
Get the lift up to the top of Sts. Johns’ Church for a stunning panorama © Ignas Širka
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT a workshop and a basketball court in the Soviet Union,
(ŠVENTOSIOS DVASIOS BAŽNYČIA) it was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has
Like many of the city’s churches, the Dominican Church of since become the predominant house of worship for
the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden the capital’s multi-denomination, English-speaking
house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current Christians. In addition to the weekly English-language
building’s appearance started taking shape towards the worship at 09:30 every Sunday, the International Church
end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Vilnius runs midweek Bible studies, courses to explore
of Dominican monks who built a monastery nearby. Its the Christian faith and various social events.QI‑10,
present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th century Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370) 52 12 21 25, www.velb.lt/
when the church was rebuilt after serious fire damage. en. Service Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00, Fri 17:00,
Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo splendour, well Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00
worth further investigation. Interestingly, the building, (Lithuanian). J
which functions as Vilnius’ Polish Catholic community’s
main church, remained opened throughout the entire FRANCISCAN CHURCH
Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the church’s (PRANCIŠKONŲ BAŽNYČIA)
crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst some 2,000 The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption
corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from the 17th of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius
and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly victims of to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th
the plague.QI‑9, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 52 62 95 95. century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling
Open 15:00 - 19:00, Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00, Sun Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both
08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst
the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on
EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly
(EVANGELIKŲ LIUTERONŲ BAŽNYČIA) moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel
Built in 1555, two years after the first German-speaking of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady
Lutheran community is said to have arrived in Vilnius, reputed to have miracle-working powers, was nearing
the crowning glory of this small gothic and baroque completion, giving some indication of how things will
church is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741, eventually look.QI‑10, Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 52 61 42
the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas 42, www.pranciskonai.lt. Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian),
Glaubicas, c.1700-67), a Lithuanian of German extraction 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30 (Polish),
and the city’s foremost architect at the time. Serving as 13:00 (Polish). J
62 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH & BASILIAN GATE
(ŠV. TREJYBĖS CERKVĖ IR BAZILIJONŲ VARTAI) OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR
Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beautiful
rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of it Begin at Vilnius Cathedral (J-8) and take a peek in-
in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church side at the Baroque St Casimir’s Chapel. Climb the
originally dates from 1514 and features elements of cathedral bell-tower for views, learn a bit of history
Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the Palace of the Grand Dukes and the National
at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Museum, then jump on the funicular up to Gedimi-
Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 1460- nas Castle for more fine views. Stroll back down and
1530), the church, which was extensively altered after a head south to J-9 and Gothic St Anne’s. Cross the
serious fire in the middle of the 18th century, belongs River Vilnia into Užupis to see the Angel monument,
to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar the witty ‘constitution’ and arty shops, galleries and
faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst cafés before heading west back across the river past
recognising the Pope as God’s representative on Earth. the white Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy
The church is a complete mess inside, almost completely Mother of God and up Latako to find charmingly
empty with the exception of some wonderful, barely tiny St Paraskeva, visited in 1705 by tsar Peter the
visible frescos both inside and out. There’s also a small Great who served here as godfather to Abram Gan-
chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation work is slow. nibal, Afro-Russian nobleman and great-grandfather
The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design of Alexander Pushkin.
by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas,
ca. 1700-1767).QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 7b, tel. (+370) 52 Proceed southwards up Didžioji, popping into
12 25 78. J Vilnius Picture Gallery if you’re intrigued by art
history, then passing stunning Baroque structures
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. PARASKEVA like St Casimir’s, the Basilian Gate, the Orthodox
(PYATNICKAYA) Church of the Holy Spirit and St Theresa’s with
Dating back to the middle of the 14th century and itself its gorgeous interior, to find the Gates of Dawn (J-
built on the site of what many believe to be a former 11) and its miraculous image of the Virgin Mary. Pass
pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat under the gate and turn right to walk down Bazilijonų
diminutive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not to get a taste of the real Lithuania at Halės Market
only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to (I-11) before heading north again. On a building at
be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the the corner of Visų Šventųjų and Rūdininkų is a map
baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African showing the terror-stricken ‘ghetto’ where the city’s
prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who large Jewish population was herded between 1941
was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the part and 1943.
of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the
Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on On Vokiečių, a leafy a leafy
several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the avenue lined with shops,
time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for cafés and restaurants, is a
seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt modern building housing
in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. the Contemporary Art
Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, Centre (I-10). Down at
opening a year later as a museum of painting before the bottom of the street,
being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. hang a right to discover
Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, the magical interior of
services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a the Church of the Holy
Sunday.QJ‑9, Didžioji 2. J Spirit and, turning left
onto Universiteto, the
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE APPARITION OF Alumnatas Courtyard.
THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD (ZNAMENSKAYA) Further down Universiteto is the entrance to Vilnius
Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful Neo- University, through which you can explore its
Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best-loved Russian courtyards, frescoes in the Littera bookshop and, up
Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous the steps, St John’s and its separate bell-tower with
icons hanging inside are potted plants that make the sweeping Old Town views.
place feel alive. Next to the icons are prayers for each
saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old That concludes your Old Town tour. Now relax with
Slavonic you’ll need a translator to work them out. The a well-deserved brew at one of the restaurants or
church was fully restored, inside and out, in 2009.QE‑7, summer terraces on or around Pilies Street (J-9), or just
Vytauto 21, tel. (+370) 52 75 13 75. Open 09:00 - do some shopping.
16:30.
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 63
Sightseeing
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and
(STAČIATIKIŲ ŠV. DVASIOS CERKVĖ) Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three
Dating originally from the mid-16th century but late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century
predominantly now the combined work of the city’s most crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous
renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph religious motifs.QJ‑10, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 52 12 17
Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who 15, www.kazimiero.lt. Open 16:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:00 -
spent four years on the rococo design between 1749 and 14:30, Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J
1753 and later 19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications,
the entire ensemble is comprised of the church, a free- ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH
standing bell tower, monastery and convent although it’s (ŠV. MIKALOJAUS BAŽNYČIA)
the church interior that’s of most interest, being positively Pre-dating the country’s conversion to Christianity by some
bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich seven decades, Vilnius’ oldest surviving church was built in
blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s 1320 by German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the
crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century first time in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic
as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible exterior remains pretty much as it looked the day it was
Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas finished with the interior having received numerous changes
whose remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, and additions over the centuries. During the disputed
in black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the annexation of the Vilnius region during the two World
exception of June 26 when they’re put on display entirely Wars, this was the only church in the city open to the city’s
naked.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 10. Service 07:00, 17:00, Sat small Lithuanian-speaking Catholic community.QI‑10, Šv.
07:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00. J Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 30 69, www.mikalojus.lt.
Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH
(ŠV. KAZIMIERO BAŽNYČIA) ST. NICOLAS’ CHURCH
St. Casimir’s in many ways represents a microcosm of (ŠV. NIKOLAJAUS CERKVĖ)
Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to The forerunner to this church supposedly dates back to
Lithuania’s patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458- the second decade of the 16th century, belonging from
1484), construction on the mighty building began in 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time during
1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground the 18th century the original church burnt down and was
just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At the height of
conflagration visited twice again within the next century the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic
in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and communities in the city, the church was confiscated on the
astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrówka, orders of General Muravyov and converted into a Russian
1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form it’s seen Orthodox church with several Neo-Byzantine additions made
in today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands in 1865. With its predominantly Catholic tower and typically
of the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Grande Armée, the Orthodox dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking
Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its houses of worship in the capital.QJ‑10, Didžioji 12. J
appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison
church for the occupying German Army during WWI) and STS. JOHNS’ CHURCH (ŠV. JONŲ BAŽNYČIA)
others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place Built at the same time as Lithuania’s conversion to
into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic Christianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical
Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 alterations through the centuries, the vast and imposing
and has since undergone a massive renovation project, Sts. Johns’ Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571
by Zygmunt II August (Žygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572).
On the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church
was handed over to the adjoining University. The present
building, which contains elements of all of the major
architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an
extraordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose
crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to
an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in
1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received
a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000,
is used extensively in classical concerts the church is now
famous for. Note that the church is part of the Vilnius
University complex and can’t be visited seperately: you will
need a ticket from the university itself.QJ‑9, Šv. Jono 12,
tel. (+370) 52 12 17 15, www.jonai.lt. Mass Tue, Wed,
Church of St. Nicholas © Vilniaus Šv. Mikalojaus parapija Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J
64 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
ST. THERESA’S CHURCH (ŠV. TERESĖS BAŽNYČIA)
Probably Vilnius’ best surviving example of Early
Baroque religious architecture, work on the first
incarnation of St. Theresa’s was completed in around
1650. Built at the behest and expense of the then
Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac),
the straightforward idea behind its construction
was to create the most beautiful church in the city, a
fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate façade,
predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino
Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. George’s
Chapel inside the city’s Cathedral. The spectacular and
predominantly rococo interior, much of it added in
the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and
pinks.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 35 13.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00, Mass 17:00,
18:00. Sun 09:00 (Polish), 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:00
(Polish), 18:00. J
MONUMENTS
FRANK ZAPPA
Freak out! Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time
classical composer, father of Moon Unit and all round
creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa (1940-93) has
had his head immortalised in brass and stuck on a
steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just west of the
Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created
by sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011), who
once churned out Lenins and other comrades for the UŽUPIS ANGEL
bureaucrats in Moscow, the bust is the first monument The tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius’ breakaway
to the man to be erected anywhere in the world. republic Užupis (where every dog has the right to be
As Zappa once said, “Without deviation, progress a dog) gave birth to a long-awaited angel on April
is impossible.” If you’re wondering what the link is 1, 2002, the official independence day of the wacky
between Vilnius and Frank Zappa, don’t. There isn’t district. After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling
one.QH‑9, K. Kalinausko 1. J ceremony the covers were finally lifted, and in a burst
of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of
MINDAUGAS an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally
Taking pride of place outside being rather awesome. The work of local sculptor R.
the National Museum since Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and Malūnų.
July 6, 2003, the 750th QK‑9, Užupio. J
anniversary of the crowning
of the country’s one and only UŽUPIS CONSTITUTION
king in 1253, Mindaugas (Pol. The writing is on the wall. Literally. But don’t take it
Mendog, 1200-1263), who’s literally. All 41 of the witty ‘rights’ of the constitution of
generally considered to be the self-proclaimed artists’ republic of Užupis have been
the founder of the Lithuanian hammered into mirror-like plates of metal, allowing you
state, was a bit of a character to take a selfie with your favourite lines. Thoughtfully, it’s
to say the least. Clumsy in in English too, though one or two are lost in translation.
his personal affairs and switching from paganism to Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
Catholicism and back to paganism to suit his needs, Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.
Mindaugas was eventually assassinated by his nephew Everyone has the right to have no rights.QK‑9, Paupio
and served as little more than a footnote in Lithuanian Street.
history until he was resurrected by the national revival
movement of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis’ granite
likeness of the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne),
from which the Lithuanian language gets its word for Stay up-to-date
capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the throne is’. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
QJ‑8, Arsenalo 1. J
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 65
Sightseeing
The Gothic ensemble of St. Anne’s Church and the Bernadine Church © Artūras ARTI
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ard
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Located in the Old Town, the Museum of Lithuanian
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ity
Culinary Heritage is the first museum of its kind in the it
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ard
country – and in neighbouring countries – that seeks niu ty C
iu
Vil s Ci
ln
iu
to promote culinary culture and reveal its development Viln
Vi
through the ages. Besides displays of art, furniture,
h
24
72 h
valuable plates, tureens, sauce boats, silver-plated dishes
and 300-year-old cookbooks, it also hosts exhibitions by
Lithuanian artists.QBokšto 9, tel. (+370) 52 19 48 49.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Restaurant Open
11:00 - 19:00 (+370) 69 85 48 05. €3/1.5. J
NATIONAL PARKS
Lithuania’s protected
national parks include
lake-strewn Aukštaitija,
Žemaitija with its myths,
legends and Soviet un-
derground nuclear missile
silo, and Dzūkija’s thick
pine forests, thatched
farmsteads and undisturbed, swampy Čepkeliai Marsh.
A step back in time at the Lithuanian Railway Museum
© www.vilnius-tourism.lt
visitors to the city with children in tow who are already fed PARKS & GARDENS
up with churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find BERNARDINE GARDEN (SEREIKIŠKIŲ PARK)
in the world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along (BERNARDINŲ SODAS (SEREIKIŠKIŲ PARKAS))
with a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just Nestled inside a loop of the Vilnia river just east of the Old
to the right.QJ‑8, Šiltadaržio 2, tel. (+370) 60 40 04 49, Town, this popular spot for walks was once the site of the
www.zaislumuziejus.lt. Open Tue, Wed 12:00 - 20:00, city’s late 18th-century botanical gardens. Redesigned and
Thu, Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. renamed the Youth Park after WWII, it has recently seen the
Admission €4/3. J benefit of investment and is now looking better than ever.
It boasts rather avant-garde fountains, rock gardens and
VYTAUTAS KASIULIS ART MUSEUM some of the best childrens’ playgrounds in the city. Well
(VYTAUTO KASIULIO DAILĖS MUZIEJUS) worth a look.QJ‑8, B. Radvilaitės 6b. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
Opened to coincide with Lithuania’s 2013 Presidency of J
the Council of the European Union and housed inside
a fine Neoclassical building dating from the early 20th
century, this combined museum and art gallery contains a PLACES OF INTEREST
permanent collection of colourful, Chagall-esque works by ALUMNATAS COURTYARD
Vytautas Kasiulis (1918-95) who escaped Lithuania in 1944 Built in the style of the Italian Renaissance back in the 17th
for Austria and then Germany and who spent the rest of century, this is one of the Old Town’s most atmospheric
his life in Paris. The museum also has space for temporary courtyards, usually with a few outdoor tables from a café in
shows and plays host to a range of music concerts.QH‑7, summer burbling with conversation and clinking glasses.
A. Goštauto 1, tel. (+370) 52 61 67 64, www.ldm.lt/en. Originally a seminary, the building later became part
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. of the university and is now mostly office space. At the
Admission €1.80/0.90. J back, a passage leads to a viewpoint of the rear end of the
Presidential Palace.QUniversiteto 4.
WAR MACHINERY AND TRANSPORT MUSEUM
On grounds that have belonged to whatever military has CENTRE OF EUROPE (EUROPOS CENTRAS)
been in charge since the 18th century is an impressive Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with
outdoor display of fighting vehicles, a few kilometres at least six other places of being smack in the middle of
east of the Old Town. These include Soviet-era relics from Europe. The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by
the Cold War such as T-55 and T-72 tanks, armoured cars, Jean-George Affholder of France’s Institut Géographique
motorcycles and a boat.QOlandų 21a, tel. (+370) 52 National who announced that the site lies at Bernotai,
61 96 06/(+370) 52 69 76 98, fax (+370) 52 69 76 97, close to the village of Purnuškės some 26km north of
www.muziejai.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving
Entrance for free. out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Molėtai and
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 69
Sightseeing
looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the
EUROPOS PARKAS construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may
go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation
EUROPOS PARKAS (OPEN AIR MUSEUM OF placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius
THE CENTRE OF EUROPE) is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation.
Founded in 1991 by Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept
Karosas, this wildly varied and recommended and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair
countryside excursion brings together some slightly ridiculous in the first place.QGirija vlg, 30km
big names in local and international sculpture from Vilnius.
including Karosas himself, Polish artist Magdalena
Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the HILL OF THREE CROSSES
late Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a (TRIJŲ KRYŽIŲ KALNAS)
vision that in the words of the park’s founder ‘gives Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were
artistic significance to the geographical centre of the crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin
European continent’. Featuring around 100 works had the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were
by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, they rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are
Japan and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An
hectares of rolling hills and woodland and includes excellent view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.
static and interactive art as well as Info Tree, Karosas’ QK‑8. J
crumbling shrine to propaganda made up of some
3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at its centre. LITERATŲ STREET (LITERATŲ GATVĖ)
With the addition of a restaurant and gift shop, the Inspired by Aidas Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė
park offers a fun few hours away from the city for about a wistful young man drinking and smoking with
people of all ages. To get there by car, take Kalvarijų his friends on the street of the same name, the highly
Street north to the Santariškės roundabout, turn recommended permanent outdoor gallery on Literatų is
right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji Ežerai) and dedicated to writers past and present who’ve all left their
follow the signs. Bus N°66 leaves from the Žalgirio mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints,
stop on Kalvarijų and goes all the way.QJoneikiškės, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas
10km north of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 52 37 70 77, Mekas to Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all
www.europosparkas.lt. Open daily 10:00 - sunset. the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings
Admission €9/7/5. in 2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.QJ‑9,
Literatų. J
M. K. ČIURLIONIS’ HOUSE
(M. K. ČIURLIONIO NAMAI)
Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus
Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation
as a composer. This is the house in which the great man
lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited.
The rest of the building, which during Čiurlionis’ time was
both a family house and a shop, features reproductions
of his paintings and a small concert space which stages
musical productions: check the website to see when the
next performance is.QJ‑10, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 64
65 35 03/(+370) 52 62 24 51, www.mkcnamai.lt. Open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
PLANETARIUM (PLANETARIUMAS)
A classic old school 1960s sci-fi adventure, Vilnius’
dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for
prearranged tours of 15 people or more, or take your
chance at the times listed below. Featuring a galaxy of
projectors aimed at the inside of the building’s dome,
shows include the fabulously named Venture into Space
and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on Šnipiškių, just
south of Konstitucijos.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 12a, tel.
(+370) 61 57 70 54, www.planetarium.lt. Open 10:00
‘Space of Unknown Growth’ by Magdalena Abakanowicz
© Europos Parkas
- 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission
€3.50/2.50/1.50. J
70 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE (PREZIDENTŪRA) TOWN HALL (ROTUŠĖ)
The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the palace First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from
started life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was
built at the behest of the city’s first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the governor
(d.1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which
the building remained the home of the cream of the city’s gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then its
Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment of
the residence of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many illustrious independence it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum.
figures have spent a night in the building over the centuries, Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where you can see gallery
among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local art.QI‑10, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 52 61 80 07, www.
boy, some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national vilniausrotuse.lt. Exhibitions held at the Town Hall are
hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After open to visitors, but note that during some events the
independence in 1990 the building served several purposes building can be closed to the public. Check the Town
until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag Hall’s website vilniausrotuse.lt for up-to-the-minute
can be seen flying over the building when the president is in information regarding opening times. J
residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place on
Sundays at 12:00. From spring to the start of October, at 12:00- VILNIUS CATHEDRAL BELL TOWER
18:00, it is possible to enter the courtyard without being part (VILNIAUS KATEDROS VARPINĖ)
of an excursion.QI‑9, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 70 66 40 73, Closed for more than a decade, the Bell Tower of Vilnius
www.lrp.lt. Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place Cathedral has finally reopened to visitors. One of the city’s
on Fridays from 16:45, Sundays and Sundays 09:00 - 14:30. defining monuments and a popular meeting place, the
Tours are limited to 25 people. For more information, see tower originally formed part of the city’s 13th century
www.lrp.lt or call tel. (+370) 706 640 73. J defensive wall, becoming a belfry in the 16th century. Fifty-
seven metres tall, it was remodelled and given its current
STEBUKLAS look in the 19th century. Besides offering fine views from
About halfway between the cathedral and the bell tower the top, it hosts an exhibition of bells and also documents
is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone the building’s reconstruction.QI‑8, Katedros 2, tel. (+370)
believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas 60 01 20 80, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the Closed Sun, October 1 - November 30 Open 10:00 -
human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians, 18:00. Closed Sun. €4.50/2.50. JA
Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn
was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and
hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise
circle and make a wish.QI‑8, Arkikatedros Square. J
Monument to Zemach Shabad (1864-1935; sculptor Romualdas Kvintas), put up on Mėsinių Street in
May 2007 to pay tribute to the famous Jewish doctor’s special care of children | © www.vilnius-tourism.lt
Lithuanian Jews can be traced back seven centuries. The The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth had become home
classic Lithuanian Jew (Litvak) is known in folklore for a love to the world’s biggest Jewish population. In 1800, at least a
of education, no-nonsense straight-talk and a sharp wit. quarter of a million Jews lived in Lithuania, but by then the
Jews were settled from an early date in Vilna as the capital country had been absorbed into the Russian tsarist empire.
is known in Jewish culture (more precisely Vilne in Yiddish). Hassidism, which strengthened traditional principals of faith
The first historical sources that mention the Jews go back while urging people to enjoy life, was spread in Lithuania
3,300 years to ancient Egypt. Ever since then they have by learned rabbis. But Vilna was also the world capital for
been the victims of – and have fought against – countless traditional Talmudic learning, eventually becoming known
persecutions. They were even blamed for the spread of the as the Jerusalem of Lithuania, or Jerusalem of the North.
plague and leprosy in Europe, prompting thousands to be Towering over the many great Jewish figures the city has
murdered. In 1492, they were expelled from Spain. produced is unquestionably the Vilna Gaon (‘Wiseman’) Elijah
Some Jewish families were attracted to starting a new son of Shlomo Zalman (1720-97), who criticised Hassidism.
life in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1323, Grand Towns large and small would be connected by wholesale
Duke Gediminas issued an invitation for craftsmen and and retail trade networks, while Jews established
merchants to settle there, stressing the tolerance of local themselves as successful tailors, grocers, furriers, clothiers,
people, and in 1388 under Vytautas the Great, the Duchy’s innkeepers, doctors and herbalists. Academies for young
Jews gained their first charter. Jewish men, yeshivot, in Kaunas, Vilnius, Telšiai and
The charter was confirmed in 1507, by which time more than Panevėžys were internationally renowned.
6,000 Jews were residing in the Grand Duchy. Jews were Life for Jews in the tsarist empire was restrictive, however.
also involved in changing and lending money and the local Throughout the 19th century, a Pale of Settlement was put in
nobility often asked them to maintain their financial affairs. By place in the western borderlands where Jews were allowed to
the mid-16th century, around 30,000 Jews called the Grand settle. Jews were not permitted to move from there into the
Duchy their home. Many more sought sanctuary in Lithuania inner regions of Russia. Jewish boys were forced to conscript
during the bloody Northern Wars and Great Plague of 1708- into the Tsar’s army for a term of 25 years, many of them
11. forced to be baptised. By the outbreak of World War I most
Jewish communities tended to exist fairly independently, Jews were impoverished, with irregular incomes.
with each local community (kahal), made up of rabbis and Jews were instructed to move out of villages, as they were
elders responsible for collecting taxes and maintaining public blamed for alcoholism and dishonesty among local people.
buildings. A council, or Va’ad, kept close relations with the Although Jews made up little over 14% of the population
monarch and made sure the correct taxes were given to the of Lithuania, towns like Ukmergė became more than 50%
state, while steadfastly opposing any anti-Jewish legislation. Jewish. Small towns known as shtetl thrived with dozens of
Jews in other countries could not boast of such autonomy. wooden houses, a wooden synagogue and countless artisans.
74 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Jewish Vilnius
At the same time, however, Litvaks were known for their CHORAL SYNAGOGUE (CHORALINĖ SINAGOGA)
dedication to science as well as religion, their high intellect Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the sole survivor
and individualism. Though the Haskalah tradition which out of more than 100 pre-war Jewish prayer houses in
promoted Jewish assimilation with other cultures was slow Vilnius. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion
to take hold in Lithuania, communities gradually opened of a choir section, a feature considered by some to be a
up more. Zionism, which looked to the creation of a new revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at
state in Palestine, also gained in popularity. In Vilnius, the time it was built.QI‑11, Pylimo 39. J
Kaunas and other cities and towns, traditional rabbis
clashed with progressive cultural activists. At the same JEWISH COMMUNITY OF LITHUANIA
time, anti-Semitism increased among Christians, spurred (LIETUVOS ŽYDŲ BENDRUOMENĖ)
on by rumour and propaganda. This is the country’s primary address for its living Jewish
As the 20th century approached, Jews become renowned people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal
activists, writers, journalists and businessmen. Famous and social services from kindergarten through to senior
Litvaks included the brilliant violinist Yasha Heifetz, the level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich
influential artists Chaim Soutine, Marc Chagall and Jacques (Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for
Lipchitz and such expressive native-Yiddish writers as Jewish rights however and whenever the community
Abraham Sutzkever, Chaim Grade and Moshe Kulbak. comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning
Between the wars, Vilna – at that time under Polish rule houses of worship, this is where you can meet the
and known as Wilno – was a bustling international centre genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a youth
of modern Yiddish culture and scholarship. Jews made up club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and
more than 36% of the city’s population. Yiddish schools, Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII
newspapers and many other institutions flourished. Vilna Jewish Veterans.QH‑9, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 52 61 30
had more than a hundred synagogues and prayer houses. 03, www.lzb.lt. J
Famous libraries such as the Strashun Library had more
than 35,000 rare volumes of literature by the mid-1930s.
Scholars gathered in Berlin in 1925 founded YIVO, the MUSEUMS
Institute for Jewish Research, to be located not in Prague HOLOCAUST EXPOSITION
or Warsaw but in Vilna, with branches in Warsaw and New (HOLOKAUSTO EKSPOZICIJA)
York. Honorary members included Sigmund Freud and The green wooden house reached via a tiny lane up
Albert Einstein. It was between the wars that Vilna truly from Pamėnkalnio Street is the location of the Holocaust
became known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania – the capital Exhibition of the Vilna Gaon State Jewish Museum, to give
of Yiddish culture and learning. its full name. There you will find in-depth information
But this thriving life was cut short. During the Holocaust about the once flourishing culture and history of Lithuania’s
around 95% of Lithuania’s Jews – 200,000 women, children Jews, also known as Litvaks in Yiddish. The tragedy of the
and men – were murdered, the highest percentage Holocaust, in which so much of this community was lost,
in Europe, destroying centuries of Jewish existence is of course also covered in grim detail. The museum is
in Lithuania. Many were killed by local collaborators, not afraid to talk about Lithuanian collaboration in those
including the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents dark times and leaves no aspect of the topic untouched.
who lived in Vilna before the Nazi invasion of June 1941. One unusual section is the Malina, a ghetto hideout video
Sites of mass murder can be found throughout the country. and audio installation in which real diary entries can be
Today, Lithuania’s small Jewish community of three to four experienced. Guided tours available in English, Lithuanian,
thousand makes bold efforts to maintain its extraordinary German and Russian.QH‑8, Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370)
and valuable heritage. 52 62 07 30, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission
€3/1.50. J
JEWISH LIFE
CHABAD LUBAVITCH CENTRE (CHABAD
LUBAVITCH ŽYDŲ RELIGINĖ BENDRUOMENĖ) JEWISH TOURS
This combined community centre and synagogue
is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring through the Baltics and Belarus.
the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half,
Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday Raya Shapiro Tel. (+370) 600 207 59
celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also Justina Petrauskaitė Meškauskienė
supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
items and services.QJ‑10, Bokšto 19, tel. (+370) 52 16 Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91
60 73. J
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 75
Jewish Vilnius
PANERIAI MEMORIAL MUSEUM VILNIUS GAON JEWISH STATE MUSEUM
(PANERIŲ MEMORIALINIS MUZIEJUS) (VALSTYBINIS VILNIAUS GAONO ŽYDŲ MUZIEJUS)
Between July 1941 and July 1944, approximately 70,000 Established inside a former Jewish theatre, the Centre
people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered for Tolerance’s activities include visiting exhibitions
at this site by the Nazi Security Police (Gestapo), the SS and a permanent exhibition on the upper floors. It
security service and the Vilniaus ypatingasis burys (Vilnius is a beautifully restored building and is used for art
Special Squad), in which the majority were Lithuanians. exhibitions, symposiums, conferences, discussions
Find several monuments and the remains of pits where and seminars.QH‑10, Naugarduko 10/2, tel. (+370)
the victims were killed and burned. A tiny museum inside 52 62 96 66, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
the territory displays copies of archival photographs – not Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission
recommended for children – and documents, explained in €3/1.50. J
an irregular mix of languages. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews,
Ponary to the Poles, Paneriai to the Lithuanians) is about
10km southwest of the Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas- STATUES & MEMORIALS
bound train, get off at Paneriai, turn right from the station JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽYDŲ KAPINĖS)
and walk about 800 metres along Agrastu Street. The site is By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were
at the end of the road. To get there by car, leave Vilnius via destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign
Švitrigailos Street and follow the same road, bearing right on diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as
Eišiškiu plentas (near the Statoil fuel station) and then follow the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to
the signs. You also can reach the memorial via the city’s the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually
western bypass keeping the direction to Lyda and Minsk. opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on
It’s possible to find using a GPS or online route planner (e.g. Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves
www.google.com/maps). Going by bus is complicated, of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals.
entailing several changes. For a chilling eyewitness The Gaon’s grave attracts visitors from many countries
account of the events that took place here, read Kazimierz who leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To
Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, the left of the entrance is a small office where maps of
published by Yale, or Martin Winstone’s book The Holocaust the cemetery can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones
Sites of Europe: An Historical Guide published by I B Tauris. are covered in the writing of many languages including
QAgrastų 15, tel. (+370) 66 28 95 75, www.jmuseum.lt. Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish and English. To get
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, By appointment only. there from the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Juozo
Admission free for individual visitors. For groups of up to Tumo-Vaižganto stop or Nº43 from the Lukiškės bus
30 people €30, up to 15 people €16. stop.QB‑2, Sudervės Kelias 28.
Explore Trakai Castle, one of Lithuania’s best attractions | © Matas Jankauskas, Virš Visko
SENOJI KIBININĖ
Trakai’s oldest Karaite restaurant churns out endless hot
kibinai pastries with various fillings to an appreciative
audience packed inside a wooden house like families of
sardines. It’s a long way off getting a Michelin star but if
you don’t mind waiting for a table and people treading
on your toes, bingo, this is a Trakai institution worthy of a
visit.QKaraimų 65, tel. (+370) 52 85 58 65/(+370) 65 97
21 32, www.kibinas.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 -
22:00. €5. TABS
VCUP
First opened in 1974, this was more-or-less the first
modern indoor shopping area to open in Vilnius. After
much renovation, today it’s still one of the better places
to shop in the city centre. The stores are small but varied,
with eating and drinking options and sweeping river views.
QH‑6, Upės 9, tel. (+370) 52 73 15 15, www.vcup.lt/en/.
Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Maxima Supermarket 08:00 - 22:00,
restaurants 10:00 - 24:00. PAULW Amber – Lithuanian gold
SENASIS KUPARAS
A fine little shop full of beautiful and highly sought-after
antiques, from Russian icons to silverware to furniture.
QI‑9, Dominikonų 14, tel. (+370) 52 62 10 24. Open by
appointment. JA
BOOKS
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that
in addition to the following bookshops reading
matter can be found at various libraries, listed in our
Directory at inyourpocket.com/vilnius. International
press is best found in the city’s better hotels, some
of which offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers
and magazines, as well as at Narvesen in Europa (see
shopping centres).
AKADEMINĖ KNYGA
A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual
dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One of
the better places in town for foreign literature, which you’ll
find downstairs.QI‑9, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 52 66 16
80, www.humanitas.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
EUROPA
15:00. Closed Sun. JA Situated among the skyscrapers of the business
district, the elegant PC EUROPA shopping centre hosts
DIDYSIS PEGASAS the most sought-after Lithuanian and international
Extended during the summer this is now easily the biggest brands, plus a range of restaurants for all tastes.
bookshop in the Baltics. And it’s a proper bookshop too, Find it just a few minutes’ walk from the Radisson
with sofas, armchairs and scatter cushions for reading on, BLU Lietuva or a 10-minute cab ride from Vilnius
as well as stationery and toys. You’ll do well not to spend airport. The high-end premises have a full range of
an entire afternoon (and loads of money) here.QF‑2, Ozo ladies’ and men’s clothing, shoes and accessories for
25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 52 38 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. all occasions. The stylish space on three floors hosts
Open 10:00 - 22:00. A shops with such renowned brands as Michael Kors,
Wolford, Stefanel and Grey&White and exclusive
DRAUGYSTĖ men’s stores such as Aeronautica Militare, Suitsupply,
This former largish bookshop recently removed half its Armani Jeans and Strellson. Lithuania’s most famous
stock and replaced it with a money-spinning café. English- fashion designers can also be found here and with
language novels can be counted on one hand, but also eight cafés and restaurants, beauty salons and even a
find a few glossy tomes about Lithuania in English.QI‑8, golf training centre, PC EUROPA has a little something
Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 52 68 50 80, www.vaga.lt. Open for everyone.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 61
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Also at 69 56 80, www.pceuropa.lt. Shops 10:00 - 21:00,
Gedimino 9 (GO9), Gedimino 13, Gedimino 50, Pilies 22, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Maxima 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 -
Didžioji 27. JA 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00, Lemon Gym 06:30 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PTJAULKW
COMPUTERS
IDREAM
The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops to Stay up-to-date
iPods.QF‑2, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 60 61 87 99, facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
www.idream.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 83
Shopping
MOUSTACHE BOUTIQUE
At this innovative local design workshop and store, with
an entrance from Benediktinių Street, find everything from
unique clothes and shoes to cute trinkets and accessories,
for women and men.QVilniaus 28, tel. (+370) 65 61 20
32, www.moustache.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
LINO NAMAI
LINEN Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available here for
Grown in the fields of Lithuania for centuries, flax is a just about any part of the body or the home. One of the
plant yielding fibres which, after a laborious process, can city’s top shops.QJ‑9, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 52 12 23 22,
be woven together to create a durable, ecological and www.siulas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
highly valued textile called linen. Clothing made from 11:00 - 17:00, Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. JA
linen is especially good for hot weather as its absorbent
nature keeps the skin cool. Flax seeds, meanwhile, are a
healthy source of vitamins, minerals and omega-3 acids. LITHUANIAN COUTURE
In a typical Lithuanian rural household, tablecloths, JULIA JANUS
table runners, bedding, towels and other objects were A homegrown fashion success story, Julia Janus creates
often made of linen. These days, linen products and clothes and lots more besides. Everything is based on
souvenirs in the Vilnius shops are almost as popular as the Baltic notion of simple, elegant design inspired by
amber. everything the region has to offer. You will find something
here you want to buy...QI‑10, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 52 61
43 46, www.juliajanus.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
ANGELO KIDS 11:00 - 17:00, Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Verkių 29
Achingly cute clothes for (Parkas Outlet). JA
girls, boys and babies can
be found in two bright RAMUNĖS PIEKAUTAITĖS MADOS NAMAI
and cheerful rooms just Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of
around the corner from the Toy Museum, close to the daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button.
Cathedral. Besides brilliant brands like RuffleButts from Or just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another
the US, JoJo Maman Bébé from the UK and Monna Rosa internationally successful local designer.QJ‑10, Didžioji
from Milan, Angelo Kids also creates its own colourful 20, tel. (+370) 61 56 70 93, www.ramunepiekautaite.
collections in the studio next door. Look no further for com. Open 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 -
Christening dresses and costumes, baby clothes and 16:00. JA
basically anything wonderful to wear for ages 0 to 13.
E-shopping is also perfectly doable.QB. Radvilaitės 7,
tel. (+370) 64 77 11 77, www.angelokids.lt/lt/. Open Get the In Your Pocket
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00,
Also at Šeimos aikštė 5 (Ogmios miestas). A
City Essentials app
Balta Balta
and cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main
MARKETS entrance.QI‑5, Kalvarijų 61, tel. (+370) 69 63 57 18, www.
AKROPOLIO BLUSŲ TURGUS kalvariju-turgus.lt. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the nation, this
weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis shopping VERSLO PARKAS GARIŪNAI
centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls selling Covering a vast area of 120 hectares (there are some who
everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia. say it’s the largest outdoor market in Europe) and attracting
QF‑2, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. Open 09:00 an average 50,000 shoppers every day, Gariūnai sells cars
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. on one side of the road plus all manner of cheap consumer
goods of dubious quality on a truly expansive scale on the
HALĖS MARKET (HALĖS TURGUS) other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs around €10 to
The modern, glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing get there from the city centre. Alternatively, look for the
that went out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw minibuses around the train and bus stations with Gariūnai
meat at the back is perhaps best worth avoiding, but the signs on the front.Q4km from Vilnius just off the Kaunas
beautifully restored brick building dating from 1900 is highway, tel. (+370) 66 97 77 79, www.gariunai.lt. Open
more than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors 05:30 - 14:00, Tue 02:30 - 14:00, Thu 03:00 - 14:00, Sat
rewards visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of 04:30 - 16:00, Sun 05:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
smoked meat, which can be bought here along with other
specialities including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice
range of locally-produced honey you can taste before
you purchase.QI‑11, Pylimo 58, tel. (+370) 52 62 55 36,
RECORDED MUSIC
www.halesturgaviete.lt. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - THELONIOUS
15:00. Closed Mon. J A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly
jazz but also a few other gems you won’t find in a
KALVARIJŲ TURGUS mainstream music shop. It also sells old-fashioned hi-fi
Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs equipment for those who don’t know their iPods from
and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only), their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now
one of the city’s most endangered species is a must-see organises the occasional concert. See website for more
attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of info.QI‑10, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 52 12 10 76, www.
the country’s really like. One of the best places in town for thelonious.lt. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat
meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
in the CCCP, also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket August - November 2017 87
Leisure
As tempting as it may be to just sit around in cafés and day offer - and the option to use your Vilniečio Kortelė
bars enjoying the city, there might be occasions when public transport card. See the website for more information
you might want to actually do something. Whether it’s about deals and to sign up.QI‑8, tel. (+370) 80 02 20 08,
relaxation or action, we’ve hand-picked a bunch of options www.en.cyclocity.lt. A
and stuffed our pages with stuff to do.
VILNIUS BIKE TOURS & RENTAL
- VELOCITY VILNIUS
ACTIVE LEISURE A local organisation that rents bicycles, organises city tours
UNO PARKS by bike, provides maps and information about cycling in
Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the city and organises free cycling events. The daily (except
the Neris, Uno offers over 1.5km of tracks up in the Sundays) tour All Sides of Vilnius begins at 11:00 at the
trees aimed at everyone from kids to beginners to bicycle rental at Pylimo 31.QI‑10, Pylimo 31, tel. (+370) 67
professional Tarzans. Each route comes with ziplines for 41 21 23, www.velovilnius.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JA
aerial flights, plus there’s a 16m swing for the completely
insane and an aerial runway across the river. The place is
hidden from the road with barely any signposts. A map BOWLING & BILLIARDS
on the website partially solves the mystery.QLizdeikos, FUKSAS
tel. (+370) 60 23 23 66, www.unoparks.lt. Open 10:00 Use any of the 12 high-quality pool tables, including one
- 21:30. for Russian pool, and make good use of the well-stocked
bar. Or just enjoy a drink.QGedimino 28/2, tel. (+370) 52
60 89 26, www.fuksas.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 -
BIKE RENTAL 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
CYCLOCITY
CycloCity, a joint initiative between Vilnius municipality
and JCDecaux, is aimed at anyone looking to cycle around ESCAPE ROOMS
the city. A subscription-based service, it allows users to DECODE ROOM
rent from a stock of over 300 bicycles parked at 37 stations At this clever escape room next to the train station, collect
around the city for any amount of time - just as long as the clues in rooms set up to resemble a spy’s Moscow
you’ve got enough credit in your account. Subscriptions are apartment and solve the puzzle. Teams of two to six players
available online at www.cyclocity.lt/en/ and cost €19.90 a work best, ideally four, with tweens and teens welcome
year. There are number of deals - including a special three- too.QGeležinkelio 6. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
88 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Leisure
ILLUMINATI ROOM
At this escape room requiring equal parts logic and imagination
in order to make it out, work through a variety of clues and
challenges for you and your team to find the answers in less
than 60 minutes. Go!QGeležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 61 55 45
58, www.illuminatiroom.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
LABYRINTHUS
Enter a dark door concealed within the concrete maze of
the city’s western suburbs and you will be plunged into an
escape game from which you may never emerge. Teams
lead themselves through scary, dimly lighted corridors and
tight passages, interpreting messages to open the right
doors. One game is for kids aged 12 to 16, another for those
aged 14 and up. Website in Lithuanian only.QLaisvės 60,
tel. (+370) 68 78 21 18, www.labyrinthus.lt/en. Open
11:00 - 22:00.
KAYAKING
PIPIRO BAIDARĖS
See Vilnius from unique and memorable angles by
kayaking down the Neris or the faster, trickier Vilnelė. These
guys drive you to a rural point upriver and then down you
paddle, under bridges and through the city centre.Qtel.
(+370) 68 33 89 35, www.pipirobaidares.lt.
MAKEUP 2 GO
MAKEUP Offering personal consultations by makeup and
BEAUTY RESORT beauty experts, especially important if you have a
At this exceptional home of beauty with a calming interior, special event rapidly approaching, this polished and
you’ll find the latest trends and procedures including super-efficient salon also holds courses and seminars.
makeup, hairdressing, eyebrow treatments, upscale QPamėnkalnio 3, tel. (+370) 69 00 77 72, www.
pedicures and manicures, injection procedures and much makeup2go.lt.
more. Beard shaping for gents too.QOdminių 14, tel.
(+370) 65 06 56 66, www.imakeup.lt/. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. ON WHEELS
SUPER SEGWAY
These extraordinary if not particularly alluring machines are
Full contents online: available to buy and to rent.QI‑9, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370)
vilnius.inyourpocket.com 61 23 44 44, www.supersegway.com. Open 11:00 -
18:00. JA
MEDICAL SERVICES
BALTIC- AMERICAN CLINIC
Highly recommended modern professional health
care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever.
QNemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 52 34 20 20/(+370) 69 85
26 55, www.bak.lt. Open 24hrs. A
KARDIOLITA
A privately-run hospital.QA‑1, Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 52
39 05 00, www.kardiolita.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
DRY CLEANERS
& LAUNDERETTES
JOGLĖ
The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services.QF‑8, J.
Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto), tel. (+370) 52
64 91 64/(+370) 62 01 11 77, www.jogle.lt. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun, Also at Gedimino
9 (GO9), Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis),
Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama). A
GENEALOGY
LITHUANIAN CENTRAL REGISTRY ARCHIVE
(ISTORIJOS ARCHYVO SKYRIUS)
The entire Lithuanian civil registry archives from 1940 to
the present day, including records of all births, deaths
and marriages. In order to use this service, location and
approximate date are essential.QMindaugo 8, tel. (+370)
52 13 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45
- 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
J
Vilnius has a wide range of accommodation options in (+370) 52 20 11 20, www.kempinski.com/vilnius. €250 -
all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western 2000. PiTJHARUIFLKDC W
Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning staying hhhhh
right in the centre is always an option. Booking a room in
advance is recommended, especially in summer. RADISSON BLU ROYAL ASTORIJA
QJ‑10, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 52 12 01 10, fax (+370)
52 12 17 62, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius.
CREAM OF THE CROP 119 Total rooms. PiJHARUFKDX
IMPERIAL HOTEL&RESTAURANT CW hhhhh
QJ‑10, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 52 55 33 55, fax (+370)
52 55 33 11, www.ramadavilnius.lt. €135 - 450. PiT RELAIS & CHATEAUX STIKLIAI HOTEL
JHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh QI‑9, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 52 64 95 95, fax (+370) 52 12
38 70, www.stikliai.com. €140 - 1300. PiJHA
KEMPINSKI HOTEL CATHEDRAL SQUARE R6UIFKDCW hhhhh
QI‑8, Universiteto 14, tel. (+370) 52 20 11 00, fax
THE NARUTIS
QJ‑9, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 52 12 28 94, www.narutis.
SYMBOL KEY com. €120 - 350. PiTJHA6UILKD
CW hhhhh
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
VILNIUS GRAND RESORT
O Casino H Conference facilities QEžeraičių 2, Ežeraičio village, Vilnius district, tel.
(+370) 52 73 97 00, fax (+370) 52 73 97 30, www.
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
vilniusgrandresort.com. €100 - 500. PiTHA6
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking UIFLKDXCW hhhhh
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant J Old town location UPMARKET
D Sauna C Swimming pool
AMBERTON HOTEL
QI‑8, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1, tel. (+370) 52 10 74 61,
I Fireplace W Wi-Fi www.ambertonhotels.com. 116 Total rooms Breakfast
not included. PJHARULKXW hhhh
96 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
ARTAGONIST ART HOTEL HOLIDAY INN VILNIUS
QPilies 34, tel. (+370) 52 43 00 00, www.artagonist.lt/. QI‑6, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. (+370) 52 10 30 00, fax (+370)
€90 - 300. PiJHAR6UKW hhhh 52 10 30 01, www.holidayinnvilnius.lt. €99 - 140. Pi
JHAUFLKDW hhhh
ARTIS CENTRUM HOTELS
QI‑9, Totorių 23, tel. (+370) 52 66 03 66, fax (+370) 52 66 MABRE RESIDENCE
03 77, www.artis.centrumhotels.com. €79 - 225. Pi QJ‑9, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 52 12 20 87, fax (+370) 52
JHARUFLKDCW hhhh 12 22 40, www.mabre.lt. €95 - 200. PiJHAR
6LKDCW hhhh
ATRIUM
QJ‑9, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 52 10 77 77, fax (+370) 52 10 MOON GARDEN HOTELQJ‑11, Bazilijonų 10, tel.
77 70, www.atrium.lt. €75 - 95. PiJHA6U (+370) 52 19 99 49, www.moongardenhotel.com. €85 -
LKDW hhhh 160. PiJ ARUILKW hhhh
DVARAS MID-RANGE
QI‑8, Tilto 3/1, tel. (+370) 52 10 73 70, fax (+370) 52 ALEXA OLD TOWN HOTEL VILNIUS
61 87 83, www.dvaras.lt. €76 - 129. PiJARL QI‑11, Pylimo 53, tel. (+370) 52 19 17 80, fax (+370) 52
KW hhhh 78 40 95, www.hotelalexa.eu. €35 - 130. iJHA
R6ULKXW hhh
EMBASSY HOTEL BALATONAS
QD‑6, Latvių 38, tel. (+370) 52 72 22 50, fax (+370) 52 APIA HOTEL
72 21 34, www.embassyhotel.lt. €53 - 110. PiHA QI‑9, Šv. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 52 12 34 26, www.apia.lt.
ULKDW hhhh €60 - 200. PiJAW hhh
BUDGET
CORNER HOTEL
QG‑10, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 52 10 23 61, fax
(+370) 52 10 23 64, www.cornerhotel.lt. 146 Total
Luxurious room at the © Mabre Residence Hotel rooms. iHA6ULK W hhh
98 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Stu
g.
ių
Geležinio Vilko
Lūš
T. Narbuto kuv o g.
Eln
Ger vių g.
Kintų g.
os g
Giedraičių g.
T. Narbuto g. .
5 aus g.
ų g.
V. Vaitk
g
.
ųg
ielių
g.
Lapi
Sėlių g. Lie
i
pyn
lių
Lvo
Lok
Dan
v
E re
og o g.
Bir
Kalvar
g. .
g.
utė
ių
ndž
.
lų g
s g.
g Lenktoji Kon
Ž alioji g. ių g. s titu
Latg
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ių g Upės g. s pr.
g.
ali
Gulb g. tų g.
n io
ų g.
t oji Bebr
ų g. Studen
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Le n k
Ne
I. Š o g.
im
6 g. aut
ri
Latvių
Malonioji g.
s
.
D. Poškos g
ošt
Embassy Balatonas g.
A. G
Kęstučio g
ės
ŽVĖRYNAS os g. čet
bri ltasis
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dge
Ba
g. L uk i
Treniotos škių
.
Antano sk
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Žaliasis
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bridge
St. Philip
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g.
io p Lithuanian
g.
to
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g.
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7 b Tr Žvėryno
osios g.
to
o-Vai
g.
ris
bridge
to g .
čiaus g.
Ne
A. Mickevi
J. Tum
6-
Lukiškių
A. Jakš
Ratonda Vasario 1
Kaštonų
Vykinto g. Liubarto Square g. T
Vilniaus g.
. Centrum
Liubarto g bridge
J. Lele
velio g.
.
Gedim
vos g
nskio g
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skio g. Europa City
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g. Pam
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l o s g.
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g .
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dirk
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lančiaus g.
dijo
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Akmenų g.
Tauro g.
Ne ko g. og
Suvalkų g.
ris Geležinio
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Vingis Park Vingis Park aka
Soldiers Cemetery ier
g.
9 K. Kalinausko
Z. S
SE
Teatro g.
Klaipėdos g.
Jovaro
J. B
P. Klimo
anav
s g.
K. Donelaičio g.
Raseinių g
Š altū
Hotel g.
g.
J. Ba
nų g.
g.
K. Jelskio g.
.
P. Skorino
Trakų g
Švies
Hostel
Muiti
ai n
K ė P y l im
os g.
Church ių
d
Lithuanian
n ės g
Parodų
V in
Television
og
Museum g.
skio
Mindaug
grių
NAUJAMIESTIS
Rūmai
.
Museum
Gallery o nar
V. P
g.
o g.
Monument
enkos n
t ar
r. T. Ševč
ųp
io g
Tourist information
o ri
Švitriga
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va n
Pla
Parodų g. i
Cinema
g. . oji
Sa
č
ųg
Theatre drų
ilos g.
.
Šaltinių g
Birželio
Ke
Vytenio
op
.
k
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Vil
Kru
l i ų g.
Concert Hall
11 o
i ni
Aguonų g.
Algirdo g
Ei g.
.
23-iosio
lež
no g
Bus station
gu
g.
o
Ge duk
inkų g. gar
Miškini ų g.
tepo
s g.
Šv. S
Airport V. Šop
atų
Smolensk
eno g.
g.
L ai s v ė
Market
Mindaugo g.
og .
Žem
Kaun
Viewpoint Žemaitės
o g.
sp
aitė
Oslo g. Punsk
r.
olės
sg
.
Ge
o
Skroblų g
g. Art mp g.
Marija
ros
sV
.
g.
12 Eigulių
Bus Sta
io
g.
Laisvė il t i e Factory
s g.
Eglių
pr. s Loftas g.
Smolens
Kle elio
v ų g. Lithuanian Museum
Miškini ų g .
g.
žink
.
i ų g.
o no g
Paner
ji
Gele
for the Blind
rio
A B C D E F G H
Gied
t
ep
Airport S
ko g.
Šv.
Kalvarijų g.
I g.J K L M N O P
ei vių ų g.
emens Kar P. Širvio g. druli
Ne r i s
1
Žirmūnų g.
ie
Arena
r ag
Lakūnų
Verkių g
P
g.
g.
nų
Ta ur
ag
ŽIRMŪNAI Švyturio
g.
Ozo g.
.
iliaus g
J. Kub
P. Luk
šio g.
J. Galv
ydžio g 2
.
.
al n io g
g.
g.
.
ių
J. Tre
Maišiagalos g
Verk
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k
Ratnyčios g.
Anta
. Žoly
K. Lad no g Mileišiškių g.
g.
.
ygos g
Žygio g . Klini .
Kalvarijų
kų g
.
g.
či
Širvintų g.
S . Ž u k a u s k o g.
os
lio g
Afghanistan
Bistr y
g.
War Memorial
3
Sm ė
Apkasų
Tram
Šilo v ajų g
. K an kli ų g .
bridge
Žygio g.
Šilo g. ANTAKALNIS
Žirmūnų g.
g.
Šilutės g.
s
Mintie
g.
ių g
o
k
V. Gryb
Ver
Šilo g
.
o g.
Sostinės Volun
gės g
Smėli
Market .
ŠKĖS Trimitų g. M. Katkaus g. Debe
s ijos g
4
.
Orthodox Church
Saracėnų g.
H. Man g.
to g . Kari
ų Ka
Tus
Kalvarijų pų
Antakalnio g.
ku
S. Fin Antakalnis
lėn
o g. Market
g.
ųg
Turgaus g. Cemetery
Giedraičių g.
.
Kuosų g
.
.
ųjų s erų g
Kazliškių g. 5
s g.
.
Kalvarijų g
Se
ego ū ra
api
Tuskulėnai Peace Park Memorial Complex
J
tės
sting
L. S
K. Jau
n ia u s g.
Gaile
Krokuvos g g.
.
VILNIUS CENTRE
Žirm K. B
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.
Raitin
c
6
o g.
. ge . Pa
to g Rūtų g.
inkų g
M. K
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r
Rinktinės
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Saulės
g.
g
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g.
ozapa š as
Pa v
M.
vičiaus g. Slu a r i o g.
Do
g.
g
g.
buž
os
Lyglaukių
K
alv
insk
čių
s ar
Žaliasis
Va
pie
io g.
Žvej
bridge
St a
ųg os g
Olim
.
sio
.
Vai
Žyg Neri
Rud
aut g.
niū
tų 7
g.
s g. are
kos
no g.
o ima s
e
g. Fil
n
ntų iuš
g. osc
.
T. K
os g
War Machinery
g. Karaliaus
Mindaugo
e
bridge
Tilt
Vilniaus g.
Applied Arts
Ži
al.
vilų
o g. Museum
evelio g g.
Arsenalo Kirkuto
Rad
.
Archeology Museum Stalių g.
Olan
skio
dų
Ba Srovė 8
g .
Museum
S. sg
Viln
l o s g.
Šar
Kalnų Park .
Vilnius Cathedral g.
ia
kų
Belfry
.
Jogai
ųg
g.
ių
.
aitės g.
ųg
Labdarių g. Od m i n i
p
Petelišk
Š v e ntaragio g. B . Radvil
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g.
tų
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P il ie s g .
s Bern S. Skap
g. ard o g. g .
inų St. Anne’s vės
Fil
J. Žem
Ola
Sro
g. Bernardine
Presidential Vilnius
ndų
University Park
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o Palace B al
g.
SENAMIESTIS v. Jono g.
tasis
9
a.
skg.
aipėdos g. Š .
ko g UŽUPIS
St. Catherine’s .
nų g Švarco g. Lata
iniko g.
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ji g .
g.
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as
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Trakų g g. p io g
l ių g
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Vok
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K ė P y l im
ių Aukštaičių g. nto
d
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g. g
či ų
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Paupio g. .
os g. Town
g.
Ma i Paplau
Lyd 10
g.
to g
Hall jos g.
og
g.
g.
Dru
os
. Subačiaus g.
ųg
Church of the
Kaukys
Ligo Ascension
ninė g.
Ka dnink
Aušro
s g. ų
.
elit
of the Lord Subači g.
g. Sukilėlių g
aščio
Žiupronių g.
rm aus
Pakr
Rū
Pla
Medininkų g.
s
ioji g. g.
Vart
.
č
ųg g. nio
Pavil
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Ras
Mar
K. V
ųg
g. Gėlių g.
M
Bazi nų g.lijo 11
kučių g .
MARKUČIAI
.
inskio
anag
. Gervėčių g.
.
Vitebsko g
.
.
Aušros Var
no g
jos g V
Dr u
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Lap
P. Viš
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.
Ramunių g
erslo g.
S i biro g .
g
Balstogės g
g.
ų g.
.
Pyli
s g.
.
Šv. S
Sodų
ų
g.
tų g.
eno g.
g.
niškių
g.
l io g . s lo
Ver
A lk ūnės g.
žinke
S to
g.
ederio g.
.
pių g
g.
Tu rg
Gele D r e b ulė s
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ties
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lv
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Pipirų g.
ė s g.
g.
Be
sko g ep
g .
kal V a r š u v os g.
g.
.
sos
e
Ras
Sukilėlių
Rasos
Pel
Bus Station nio 12
n
. Cemetery Geležinė g.
Tyz
ųg
Dilgy
Dir v o n ų g.
g. Train Station o g. g
enh
elio g g.
žink Snie iono RASOS
.
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o no g
Raguvo
St ad
g.
Gele
.
s g.
ų g.
I J K L M N O P
Slėnio
. St LFF stadium
ep
Street Register
A. Domaševičiaus g. G-7/8 J. Biliūno g. J-9 Naručio g. K-11/12 Subačiaus g.
A. Goštauto g. J. Galvydžio g. J-2; K-2 Naugarduko g. K/M-10; L/O-11; O-12
F-6/8; G-6/7; H-7 J. Jablonskio g. H-11 E-12; F/H-11; F-12; H-10 Suvalkų g. G-9
A. Jakšto g. H-7/8 J. Jasinskio g. F-7/8; G-8 Naujininkų g. J-12 Šv. Brunono Bonifaco g.
A. Jaroševičiaus g. I-12 J. Kubiliaus g. K-1/3 Odminių g. I-8 J-9; K-9
A. Juozapavičiaus g. I-6/7; J-7 J. Lelevelio g. H-7/8 Olimpiečių g. J-7; K-6/7 Šv. Dvasios g. J-10/11
A. Rotundo g. F-7/8; G-7 J. Ralio g. H-1 Ozo g. C/H-2; C-3; H-1; I-1 Šv. Jono g. I-9; J-9
A. Strazdelio g. J-11 J. Savickio g. G-7 P. Lukšio g. I-1; J/L-2; J-1 Šv. Mikalojaus g. I-10
A. Stulginskio g. H-8 J. Treinio g. I-2; J-2 Pakalnės g. F-8; G-8 Šv. Mykolo g. J-9
A. Volano g. J-9 J. Tumo-Vaižganto g. G-7 Pamėnkalnio g. G-8; H-8 Šv. Stepono g. H-12; I-11/12
Aguonų g. H-10/11 J. Žemaičio a. I-9 Pasažo skg. I-10; J-10 Švarco g. I-9; J-9
Aido g. K-12 Jogailos g. H-8 Paupio g. K-9/10; L-10 Švenčionių g. K-11; L-11
Akmenų g. G-8/9 K. Griniaus g. H-8 Pelesos g. Šventaragio g. I-8; J-8
Alantos g. I-2 K. Kalinausko g. G-9; H-9 I-12; J/L-11; J-12; L-12 Švitrigailos g. F-9; G-9/12
Algirdo g. G-9/11; H-11/12 K. Ladygos g. K-2/3 Pilies g. J-8/9 T. Kosciuškos g. J-7; K-6/7; L-6
Alkūnės g. J-11/12; K-12 K. Sirvydo g. I-8 Pirčiupių g. K-12 T. Ševčenkos g.
Aludarių g. G-8 K. Vanagėlio g. J-11; K-11 Plačioji g. I-10/11 E-11; F-10/11; G-10
Amatų g. G-11 K. Vasiliausko skv. H-7 Pranciškonų g. I-10 T. Vrublevskio g. I-8; J-7/8
Ankštoji g. F-7; G-7 Kaltanėnų g. I-3/4 Punsko g. H-12 Tauragnų g. I-1
Apkasų g. I-3; J-3/4 Kalvarijų g. H-7; I-1/7 Pylimo g. H-8/10; I-10/11; Tauro g. G-8; H-8/9
Arsenalo g. J-7/8 Kareivių g. I-1; J-1 J-11/12 Teatro g. H-9
Ašmenos g. I-10 Karmelitų g. I-10/11 Radvilų g. I-7/8 Tilto g. H-7; I-7/8
Augustijonų g. J-10 Kaštonų g. G-7; H-7 Raitininkų g. J-6; K-6 Trakų g. H-10; I-9/10
Aukštaičių g. J/L-10 Kauno g. F-12; G-11/12; H-11 Ramybės g. K-11/12 Trimitų g. I-4; J-4
Aukų g. G-8 Kazliškių g. I-5; J-5 Rasų g. K-11/12; L-12 Turgaus g. I-5
Aušros Vartų g. J-10/11 Kėdainių g. H-10; I-10 Ratnyčios g. H-2/3 Turgelių g. J-11/12; K-12
B. Laurinavičiaus skv. I-4 Kenos g. K-11/12 Raugyklos g. H-11; I-11 Tuskulėnų g. J-4/5; K-5/6
B. Radvilaitės g. J-8 Kernavės g. H-2/4 Rinktinės g. I-4/5; J-4/7 Tyzenhauzų g. J-12
Balstogės g. K-11; L-11 Kintų g. H-4/5 Rožių al. H-9 Ulonų g. J-2/3
Baltasis skg. K-9; L-9 Klaipėdos g. H-9; I-9 Rūdninkų g. I-10/11 Upės g. E/H-6; H-7
Bazilijonų g. I-11; J-11 Konstitucijos pr. G-5; H-5/6; I-6 Rudnios g. H-3/4 Utenos g. G-3; H-3
Benediktinių g. H-9; I-9 Kražių g. F-7; G-7 Rusų g. J-9 Užupio g. J-9; K-9
Bernardinų g. J-9 Krokuvos g. G/I-5; I-6; J-6 S. Fino g. H-5; I-5 V. Gerulaičio g. G-1; H-1
Bokšto g. J-9/10 Krosnies g. G-4 S. Skapo g. I-9; J-9 V. Kudirkos g. F-8/9; G-7/8
Ceikinių g. I-6 Kruopų g. H-11; I-11 S. Žukausko g. J-3; K-2/3; L-2 V. Mykolaičio-Putino g. G-8/9
Dainavos g. G-7/8 L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus g. I-8/9 Šaltinių g. G-11; H-11 V. Nagevičiaus g. K-2/3
Daugėliškio g. G-5; H-4/5; I-4 Labdarių g. H-8; I-8 Saracėnų g. I-4/5 V. Šopeno g. H-11; I-11/12
Didžioji g. I-10; J-9/10 Lakūnų g. J/L-1 Šatrijos g. H-4 Varšuvos g. K-12
Dominikonų g. I-9 Lapų g. J-11 Savanorių pr. Vasario 16-osios g. G-7/8; H-7
Drujos g. J/L-11; L-10; M-9/10 Latako g. J-9 C-12; D-11/12; E-10/11; F-9/10 Vašingtono a. G-7
Dubingių g. H-2/4 Liepkalnio g. J-11/12; K-12 Savičiaus g. J-10 Veprių g. H-4/5
Durpių g. H-2/3 Ligoninės g. I-10/11 Šeimyniškių g. I/K-6 Verkių g. I-3/4; J-1/3
Etmonų g. I-10; J-10 Literatų g. J-9 Seinų g. I-12; J-12 Vilniaus g. H-7/8
Gaono g. I-9 Lukiškių g. F-6; G-6/7 Šermukšnių g. G-7; H-7 Vingrių g. H-10; I-10
Gedimino Baravyko g. Lukiškių skg. F-6/7; G-7 Šiaudinės g. G-4/5 Visų Šventųjų g. I-11
F-5; G-5/6 Lvovo g. G-5; H-5/6 Šiaulių g. I-10 Vokiečių g. I-9/10
Gedimino pr. F-7; G/I-8; G-7 Lydos g. H-10; I-10 Šiltadaržio g. J-8/9 Vytenio g. F-9/11; G-11/12
Geležinio Vilko g. C-11/12; M. Antokolskio g. I-9/10 Šilutės g. H-4/5; I-3/4 Žemaitijos g. H-10; I-10
D-9/11; E-9; F-3/9; G-1/4 M. Daukšos g. J-11; K-11 Širvintų g. H-2/4 Žirmūnų g. K-5; L-1/5
Geležinkelio g. H/J-12; J-11 M. Katkaus g. J-4; K-4 Slucko g. I-6 Žiupronių g. K-10/11
Gėlių g. I-11 M. Valančiaus g. F-9; G-9 Sluškų g. K-6/7; L-6 Žvejų g. H/J-7
Gervėčių g. K-11; L-11 Maironio g. J-8/10; K-10 Sniego g. I-12; J-12 Žydų g. I-9/10
Giedraičių g. H-3/5; I-2/3 Maišiagalos g. I-2/3 Sodų g. I-11/12 Žygimanto Liauksmino g. I-8
Gudų g. I-12; J-12 Malūnų g. J-9; K-9 Sporto g. J-6; K-6 Žygimantų g. H/J-7; J-8
H. Manto g. I-4 Marijampolės g. G-12; H-12 Stadiono g. J-12; K-12 Žygio g. J-2/4
Išganytojo g. J-9 Mečetės g. G-6 Stasio Vainiūno g. K-7
Islandijos g. H-8/9 Mielagėnų g. K-11 Stiklių g. I-9/10; J-10
J. Basanavičiaus g. F/H-9; H-10 Mindaugo g. G-9; H-9/12 Stoties g. I-12