STUDY THE EFFECT OF WEAVE STRUCTURE ON THE AIR PERMEABILITY AND SNAGGING OF THE

FABRIC

1. INTRODUCTION
Woven fabric is the most versatile fabric for its construction which is produced by the interlacement of two sets of yarn one is called warp yarn
that is longitudinal & the other is weft yarn that is transverse. It is the most sophisticated & aristocratic fabric available with different designs.
Due to the variation of interlacement it is possible to produce different designs like plain, twill, satin etc (Banerjee, 2014; Hu, 2004). The warp
moves along the length and the weft along the width of the fabrics. There are voids between weft and warp yarns in the fabric. The void volume
in woven textile fabrics causes’ air permeability of textile fabric is determined by the rate of air flow through a material under different
pressure.). The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of air through it and it is influenced by several factors: the
type of fabric structure, the design of a woven, the number of warp and weft yarns per centimeter (or inch), the amount of twist in yarns, the size
of the yarns and the type of yarn structure. It is especially critical for the performance of functional textile products such as industrial filters,
tents, sails, parachutes, airbags, raincoat fabrics and outdoor clothing and is also directly associated with other comfort parameters such as
thermal resistance and moisture permeation and also transition of liquid and vapor. The Furthermore, thermal resistance is related with the air
trapped between the skin and the clothing. Therefore, determination of air permeability of woven fabrics is important for the textile industry. The
aim of this study was to determine the effects of picking sequence and two different weave structures on comfort and serviceability property
including air permeability and snagging resistance of woven fabric. For this purpose, comfort properties of 100% cotton woven fabric, 4x1 satin
and 3x1 twill fabrics were determine.

Snagging of fabric is created when a sharp or rough object pulls, plucks, scratches, or drags a group of fibers, yarn, or a yarn segment from
its normal pattern, a yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface. The problem of snagging is more evident in fabrics constructed of
filament yarns. The objective of study is to investigate the effect of picking sequence and two different weave structures (twill and satin) on the
Air permeability and snagging property of woven fabrics.
Twill; - is a weave characterized by diagonal lines produced by a series of floats staggered in the warp or filling direction and
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Sateen/Satin; - Sateen indicates a weft faced construction, while satin is a warp faces structure.

2, Problem statement
In the selection of the suitable fabrics for the certain end uses such as, industrial application and garments or apparels manufacturing, air
Permeability and snag resistance are the first properties which has the great influence on the end uses of fabric. But Comfort properties of fabrics
are mainly affected by fabrics ‘raw material, mass, heat, moisture transfer characteristics, and tactile sensations. Environmental factors such as
air temperature, velocity, and relative humidity, radiant temperature also change fabrics’ comfort. Air permeability is also directly associated with
other comfort parameters such as thermal resistance and moisture permeation. An air permeable fabric also allows the transition of liquid (sweat)
and vapor. When many heat losses from the body is interrupted between skin and fabric, feeling of individual comfort is not good in a given
environment.
And many clothes had to stop wearing because it got a hole, and then became frayed, and little balls of fiber collected on the fabrics. The
problem of snagging is more evident in fabrics constructed of filament yarns. These types of physical changes in fabrics sometimes appear
suddenly, as the textile item is damaged, old and/or laundered. , So, the problem of awareness for health, environment and Comfortable to human
body. By understanding those problems we want to study the Effect of weave structure on the air permeability and snagging of fabrics by
selecting three type of construction that are satin and two type of twill structure.

3, Objective
3.1General objectives
Study the effect of weave structure on the air permeability and snagging of the fabric

3.2, Specific objectives

 To interpret the effect of air permeability and snagging property on weave structure
 To study how the satin/sateen and different type of twill structure affect the snagging and air permeability of fabric.

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  To test the air resistance and snag resistance of different weave structure.
 To know the factor affecting air permeability and snagging of fabric
 To determine the air permeability and snag resistance of difference between different weave structures with constant parameters.
 To compare air permeability and the snagging resistance of fabrics of different weave ( twill, satin/sateen)

4, Literature review
The term comfort is defined as “the absence of unpleasantness or discomfort” or “a neutral state compared to the more active state” (Clulow,
1987). Comfort mainly is of three types: sensorial (tactile) comfort, psychological comfort and thermo physiological comfort (Li, 2010; Sule,
2012; Wang, Lui, & Wang, 2010). Thermo physiological comfort is determined by the air permeability (AP), moisture management and heat
transfer regulation properties of the garment. Thermal conductivity is the main factor having strong effect on the skin temperature. The
removal of excessive moisture from the body improves the comfort level. So in warm and humid environment higher AP increases comfort
(Goyal & Prabbhu,2008). Fiber and fabric structure properties affect the thermal state of body (Matusiak, 2006). The AP and comfort
properties of the fabric can be determined by interactions and interrelationship of the properties of its constituent fibers, yarn, fabric structure
and chemical finishes applied during the production of the fabric (Haristian, 2011). The moisture flow through fabric is the most important
factor for physiological comfort. The hydrophilic materials are good moisture absorbers. Nayak, Punj, Chatterjee and Behera (2009) studied
the comfort properties of suiting cotton fabrics and concluded that have good thermal property. Twist direction did not have any significant
effect on wicking property. Comfort characteristics of woven fabric produced from staple twist less and hollow fibrous assembly were
studied and concluded that Air permeability and wicking rate was higher in staple twist less fabric, while thermal properties like thermal
resistance, water vapor permeability and water absorption were better in hollow fibrous assembly fabrics. Although lot of work has been
reported on various aspects of thermo physiological comfort of woven fabrics, to the best of our knowledge no work has been published on
the effect of picking sequence of different weft materials in woven fabrics of different weave designs on the fabric’s comfort properties.

Factors/variables which affect air permeability

 Fiber content: more crimp fiber, lower air permeability
 Yarn size: heavier yarns, lower air permeability
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  Fabric thickness: thicker fabric, lower air permeability
 Multiple layers: more layers, lower air permeability
 Fabric yarn per inch or stitches per inch: greater density, lower air permeability
 Finishing techniques - Hot calendaring can be used to flatten yarns, thus reducing air permeability. different surface texture on
either side can have a different air permeability depending upon the direction of air flow
 Yarn twist - less twist, less air permeability as twist increases, circularity and density of yarn increase, thus reducing the yarn
diameter and the cover factor and increasing the air permeability.
 Finishing techniques - Hot calendaring can be used to flatten yarns, thus reducing air permeability.
 Increasing yarn twist also may allow the more circular, high-density yarns to be packed closely together in a tightly woven
structure which reduced air permeability.
 Yarn crimp and weave: influence the shape and area of the interstices between yarns and may permit yarns to extend easily. Such
yarn extension would open up the fabric, increase the free area, and increase the air permeability Yarn crimp and weave: influence the
shape and area of the interstices between yarns and may permit yarns to extend easily. Such yarn extension would open up the fabric,
increase the free area, and increase the air permeability.
Factors which affect snagging
 Type of fabric
 Yarn construction
 Fabric structure
Principle of air permeability testing
The principle of the test is that the rate of flow of air passing perpendicularly through a given area of fabric is measured at a given pressure
difference across the fabric test area over a given time period
5, Justification (significance)
5.1, Benefits of the project
The importance of study the Effect of weave structure on the air permeability and snagging properties has a great advantage. For example
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 a. To easily select air permeable and hadn’t to stop wearing clothes
b. To know comfortable properties of fabrics and which fabric can to stop wearing easily

c. To equalize the air out of the fabric and on our skin.

d. Comfortable to users(environmental friendly)
e. To increase user satisfaction on work.
5.2, Beneficiary
 Customer
 Company
 people
6, Scope of this project
This study investigates to show the influence of weave structure differences on the air permeability and snagging of woven products. The study
bounded the sateen/satin and the twill structure of the fabric. And the properties that test are snag and air permeability of the fabrics under certain
parameters.
7. Methodology
Methods
1. Data collection:-from kanoria Africa textile plc
2. Sampling;- Woven Fabric sample(satin /sateen(4/1) and twill (1/3) and (3/1))
-for mace snag tester 330mm x 203mm and for air permeability tester (FX- 3300) 180 mm2 area of sample fabric.
3. Testing;-test those samples 18 times by mace snag tester and air permeability tester (FX- 3300) machines for 2 hour.
4. Data analysis;-finally the analysis data which is obtained from the result by comparing the two test result.
We are collected the data that are used for our project work, by both primary and secondary data collection method.
Under primary method,
 Lab testing
 Measurement of the product.
Under secondary data:
 From website, and Internet.

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  Journals articles and some reference books.

Materials
 Woven Fabric sample(satin / (4/1) and twill (1/3) or (3/1))
 Photographic standards for snagging.
 Scissors
 Stitching machine
Equipment’s
 Electronic air permeability tester
 ICI Mace snagging –testers
8. Work plan

ACTIVITY DURATION

9. Project cost

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1o. References

1. Institute T.S., 1999, "Kumaşlarda hava geçirgenliğinin tayini", ICS 59.080.30., TSE 1996, TS 391,
2. Turan R.B., Okur, A., 2005, "Air permeability of fabrics", The Journal of Textile and Engineer, 15, 16-25.
3. Saville B. P., Physical testing of textiles, the textile institure, woodhead publishing limited, Cambridgeengland, 2003.
4. Banerjee, P.K., 2014. Principles of Fabric Formation. Taylor & Francis.
5.

Introduction
Comfort sensations are classified into three main groups: thermal and moisture
sensations, tactile sensations and pressure sensations. During normal wear, i.e.,
under steady-state conditions, comfort sensations are mostly related to tactile and
pressure sensations. These are mainly determined by fabric surface structure, pri-
marily associated with skin contact descriptors (such as smoothness or prickliness)
and by clothing fit and stretch, which are related to and influence tactile sensations
but also affect the ability of fabrics to dissipate heat and moisture (in vapour and
liquid forms) [1]. Under transient wear conditions, caused by physical activity or
weather conditions, comfort sensations are mainly related to the thermal properties,
the moisture vapor resistance of clothing and the percentage of moisture accumu-
lated inside the clothing [2]. Thus, if the clothes worn next to skin get wet, the final
thermo-physiological comfort is dependent on two main factors: the thermal resis-
tance in wet state and the active cooling resulting from the moisture evaporation
from skin through the clothing and from the direct evaporation of sweat from the
fabric surface [3,4]. The use of functional yarns with a thermo-regulating effect
improve the thermal and moisture performance of fabrics made from the yarns,
but the integration of elastic yarns into the fabric structure can impair the thermo-
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physiological wear comfort [5]. Therefore, the study of thermal behavioral changes
due to moisture content in functional elastic fabrics, is of importance to design and
predict wear comfort, particularly for sportswear applications.
There is limited literature on properties of knits from new generation fibers with
elastane yarn, and most studies refer to changes in physical and dimensional char-
acteristics of the fabrics. Knitting with elastomeric yarns usually results in a com-
pact structure because of the yarn extension in the knitting zone, fabric relaxation
after taking-off and yarn compression, which leads to changes in the loop geom-
etry. The elastomeric yarn allows the fabric to stretch more than traditional fabrics,
creates a more resilient fabric, which is resistant to snagging, fiber fatigue, pin
holing and which increase the useful life of fabric [6].
Examination of inter-reliance of geometrical attributes of elastomeric knitted
fabrics, particularly loop length and type of structure, and the aerodynamic and
comfort properties was the subject of a previous study [7]. The results indicated
that the loop length significantly influences especially the air and water vapor per-
meability of the fabrics, and the structure type influences the thermo-physiological
comfort properties.
In this paper, the thermal comfort properties of elastic knitted fabrics produced
with functional yarns with thermo-regulating effect are compared in dry and wet
states, and the moisture transfer between the fabrics and a wet skin is assessed,
using the indirect measuring method derived by Hes [8] for evaluating surface
moisture absorptivity of the fabrics. Three parameters were used in the evaluation:
thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, and thermal absorptivity. Besides the
thermal properties of the fabrics, air permeability that is related to the thermal
behavior was also investigated.